JP3795131B2 - Pleated skirt and its pattern - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a pleated skirt represented by a uniform skirt, for example, worn by a girl student or a student, and a pleated skirt paper pattern (hereinafter, abbreviated as a paper pattern) for cutting a fabric for making the pleated skirt.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Pleated skirts include box pleats (with a pleat only between the front and side, and in some cases only between the back and side), accordion pleats (usually called additional folds, all pleats are oriented in one direction. And knife pleats (with pleats from the center of the front or back to both directions). Conventionally, except for high-grade hand-sewn products, as shown in FIG. 7, a pleated skirt (an example of an accordion pleat) in which the straight pleats 3 are equal in width and parallel or hem is generally used. Since the pleat 3 is a straight line, the pleat skirt can be molded in a simple manner by staking the fabric into a pattern with a predetermined shape and then folding it with a fold. Production becomes possible. For this reason, the pattern paper is naturally provided with a straight, parallel, or wide crease.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The above pleated skirt is one that takes productivity into consideration, but the front and rear pleats 3 stand in the vicinity of the hipbone 11 during the course from the waist to the hips when worn (see FIG. 7, the front pleats 3 are open) The mountain-folded part turned in the radial direction), and the appearance was poor. This is based on the assumption that the waist has a substantially circular shape, and narrows down the pleats 3 of equal widths calculated by dividing the hip dimension by the number of front folds by the difference between the hip dimension and the waist dimension. This is because all the waist-hip lines drawn by the pleats 3 have the same arc shape since the uniform sewing is performed in this state.
[0004]
However, the external shape of a person has a three-dimensionally complicated three-dimensional shape. When comparing the waist 12 (hatched portion indicated by a broken line in FIG. 8) and the hip 13 (hatched portion indicated by a solid line in FIG. 8) in a horizontal cross section, the waist 12 is a flat abbreviation in which the lateral side of the waist 12 protrudes forward. The waist 13 has an elliptical cross section, the hip 13 has a substantially elliptical cross section that is slightly larger than the waist 12 and is slightly raised to the rear, and the waist-hip line along which the pleats 3 should be It is different. If there are many pleats, there is no problem because each pleat curves along the waist-hip line.For example, in the pleated skirt of 16 cars that are currently on the market, the radius of curvature of the side surface of the waist 12 that hits the hipbone is large. The pleat 3 did not have a space (space) that imitated a small part or the swelled part of the hip 13, but the front pleats lined up on the side face opened and the mountain folds turned in the radial direction and were lined up.
[0005]
The above-mentioned problem of standing pleats can occur regardless of the type of skirt and the type or shape of the pleats. For example, this may occur not only in the accordion pleated skirt (see FIG. 7) mentioned in the above example, but also in a box pleated skirt having a plurality of pleats arranged side by side or a knife pleated skirt. Therefore, we examined a pleated skirt that would look good when worn, with the pleats on the side facing the waist and hips, and the pleats along the waist-hip line without standing on the waist. In order to make the pleated skirt, we decided to consider a pattern that forms pleats on the cut fabric.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result, those developed by, in pleated skirt forming the pleats to the fabric, to widen the width of the table folds of pleats striking the side face than the width of the table folds of pleats striking the front and rear surfaces with respect to the wearer, each in West A pleated skirt with pleats sewn evenly. Hereinafter, a relatively narrow pleat that hits the front and rear faces is called a standard pleat, and a relatively wide pleat that hits the side faces is called a wide pleat. The present invention can be applied regardless of the type of skirt or the type or shape of pleats. Wide pleats should have the same width as the standard pleats, and the width of the pleats should be increased by enlarging the front pleats, and the side pleats or multiple pleats that hit the side of the front and back Wide pleats.
[0007]
In the pleated skirt of the present invention, based on the assumption that the waist has a substantially perfect circle shape, a standard pleat calculated by dividing the hip dimension by the number of front pleats of the standard pleat, and the standard pleat Wide pleats with a wide width of several mm to several tens of mm, as in the past, wide pleats that hit the side surface by sewing evenly at the waist with the difference between the hip dimension and the waist dimension narrowed down.・ In the line, a space (space) that can follow the rise of hips and hips at the waist is formed. In other words, at the waist, all the equal width pleats were conventionally folded and sewn, but in the present invention, the wide pleats are folded by a larger width to match the standard pleats. This difference becomes a slight distortion, and the waist-hip line of the wide pleat is inflated three-dimensionally to form the clearance (space).
[0008]
The waist-hip line of the wide pleats says that the pleats stand up as before because the space (space) formed as described above can wrap around the waist and hips in the waist. It does not cause such a bad appearance. The width difference between the wide pleats that form a space (space) and the standard pleats is a few mm to a few dozen mm, and the waist is sewn evenly, so the appearance is almost unknown, and the wearer feels uncomfortable Absent. In addition, the space (space) formed by folding the wide pleats by the difference of the width has a certain tension, so the wide pleats are usually caused by fasteners, pockets and seams on the side. It can also prevent standing up.
[0009]
Pleated skirt of the present invention, the pleated skirt paper that the width of the table folds of pleats in the fabric of paper which hits the side surface than the width of the table folds of pleats in paper fabric striking the front and rear surfaces with respect to the wearer, predecessor, Pleats are formed on two or more fabrics constituting the pleated skirt, such as the back or side, and each is sewn. In the present invention, as the number of pleats is reduced to increase the width of the wide pleats, a space (space) formed by evenly sewing the pleats at the waist increases, which is preferable, but the three-dimensional bulge becomes distorted. If the number of pleats is increased and the width of the front pleats of the wide pleats is reduced, it is difficult to form a sufficient space (space). For this reason, it can be applied most effectively to pleated skirts with pleats of 12, 14, 18, and 20 cars, with the current mainstream 16-car pleated skirt as the standard.
[0010]
For example, in a pleated skirt composed of two cloths, a front piece and a back piece, permanent pleating is performed in a state where each piece of cloth is individually sandwiched between respective patterns. Since the front and back formed by this paper pattern are sewn so that both sides of the pattern come into contact with the wearer's side, each of the front and back patterns should be provided with a mold that forms wide pleats on both sides. become. The difference in width between the standard pleats and the wide pleats is sufficient (several mm to several tens of mm), and the sewing at the waist is carried out equally, so the completed pleated skirt of the present invention is There is no difference in appearance from the conventional pleated skirt.
[0011]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the pleated skirt of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a pleated skirt of the present invention, FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the pleated skirt pattern 1 opened, and FIG. 3 is a wide pleat 2 and a standard pleat 3 (both accordion pleats). FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a cloth 4 that is a front or rear part of a heel. Pleats are also called “car folds” and are counted in units of “cars”. The example shown in FIG. 1 is a pleated skirt of 16 cars, and the front and back have 8 wide pleats 2, 3 standard pleats 3 and 2 wide pleats 2 in this order. ing. Thus, although the number of the wide pleats 2 in this example is eight cars in total in the left and right side parts, the number may be arbitrary and may be increased or decreased as necessary.
[0012]
As shown in FIG. 1, this pleated skirt forms a waist that is close to a perfect circle by squeezing the waist at a ratio of 60 to 100 and sewing it evenly. The wide pleats 2 on the side faces are only a few mm to a few tens of mm wider than the standard pleats 3 and are evenly sewn at the waist as described above, so the appearance of the pleated skirt sewn is the conventional one. Same as pleated skirt. Actually, since the waist length and the hip length must be the same as the conventional length, it is necessary to make the width of the standard pleat 3 relatively slightly narrower than the wide pleat 2. In FIG. 1, the width of the wide pleat 2 is emphasized so that the difference in the width of the front folds of each pleat can be seen.
[0013]
As shown in FIG. 2, the paper pattern 1 is provided with seam allowances 5 on both side edges, and has a shape that folds straight and uniform width folds 6 (hatched portions in FIG. 2) and front folds 7 alternately. Yes. The fabric 4 (see FIG. 3) which is kneaded, folded and permanently pleated on the pattern 1 forms a pleated skirt with one set as the front and the other as the back. The middle part of the pattern 1 is provided with a standard pleat 3 mold so as to correspond to the front and rear faces of the pleated skirt, and both sides are provided with a wide pleat 2 mold so as to contact the side face where the front and rear parts are sewn together. . In FIG. 2, the width of the mold corresponding to the wide pleat is emphasized so that the difference in the width of the front fold of each pleat can be seen.
[0014]
In the pleated skirt of the present invention, as a method of increasing the width of the wide pleats 2, it is conceivable to widen the entire pleat (that is, both the folds and the front folds), or to widen only the folds. In the example, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, the folds 6 of the wide pleats 2 are made equal to the folds of the standard pleats 3, and only the front folds 7 of the wide pleats 2 are compared with those of the standard pleats 3. A wide range of methods is better. This is because if there are a plurality of types of width of the folds, the pleat skirt may lose its shape. As shown in FIG. 1, the wide pleat 2 provided in this way has a space (space) formed in the waist-hip line of the wide pleat 2 on the side surface, for example, the waist part of the waist and the rise of the hip. The pleated skirt that looks good is formed by following along originally.
[0015]
FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing a pattern 10 that forms a trapezoidal pleat with the front fold 8 as the base and the fold 9 as the opposite. The size of the paper pattern 10 is determined so as to fit in a rectangle as a whole. In recent years, a paper pattern in which a trapezoidal pleat can be formed in consideration of a difference between a waist dimension and a hip dimension has begun to spread. The pleated skirt of the present invention can also be made from a pattern 10 as seen in FIG. In addition, although it is preferable that the number of pleats is small, in a pleated skirt having pleats of about 12 to 20 cars (even numbers only) that are currently popular, there is a sufficient effect of preventing the pleats from standing in any case. is there.
[0016]
FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt composed of 16 knife pleats, and FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a state in which a pattern 15 for pleating the fabric 14 constituting the pleated skirt is opened. The pleated skirt of the present invention is applicable to various pleats, and this example is one example. Similar to the pleated skirt of the accordion pleat shown in FIG. 1, four cars hitting the wearer's side face hit the wide pleat 2. Further, a fabric 14 for the front or back is formed from the pattern 15. The front and back have a complementary relationship in which the folds are reversed, and the formed fabric 14 becomes the front or the back by reversing the ridges and valleys when forming the pleats. Thus, also in the pleated skirt according to the present invention, it is possible to make a paper pattern in consideration of productivity.
[0017]
【The invention's effect】
The pleated skirt of the present invention and its pattern realize the provision of a pleated skirt that looks good when worn without deteriorating the productivity for the purpose of conventional mass production. In particular, the effect of not standing the pleats can be exhibited regardless of the type of skirt, the type or shape of the pleats. Moreover, no special sewing or materials are required, the work procedure remains the same as before, and there is almost no increase in cost. It is very expensive.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt of the present invention in an accordion pleat.
FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a paper pattern of the present invention in an accordion pleat.
FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a fabric in which pleats are formed from a pattern.
FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a paper pattern that forms a wide pleat.
FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt of the present invention in a knife pleat.
FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a paper pattern of the present invention in a knife pleat.
FIG. 7 is a perspective view of a conventional pleated skirt.
FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a cross-sectional shape of a wearer's waist and hips.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 Pattern 2 Wide pleats 3 Standard pleats

Claims (2)

In the pleated skirt formed by forming pleats on the fabric, the width of the pleat front fold that hits the side surface is wider than the width of the pleat front fold that hits the wearer, and each pleat is sewn equally at the waist. Pleated skirt characterized by. Predecessor, the pleated skirt paper to form pleats on fabrics such successor or side only, a table of pleats in the fabric of paper which hits the side surface than the width of the table folds of pleats in paper fabric striking the front and rear surfaces with respect to the wearer Pleated skirt pattern characterized by widening of the folds .

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