JP3893550B2 - Cool material yarn and fabric - Google Patents

Cool material yarn and fabric Download PDF

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JP3893550B2
JP3893550B2 JP09310997A JP9310997A JP3893550B2 JP 3893550 B2 JP3893550 B2 JP 3893550B2 JP 09310997 A JP09310997 A JP 09310997A JP 9310997 A JP9310997 A JP 9310997A JP 3893550 B2 JP3893550 B2 JP 3893550B2
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Prior art keywords
yarn
twisted
twist
present
fabric
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JPH10273836A (en
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克俊 橋本
俊昭 三浦
研治 飯田
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東レ・テキスタイル株式会社
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、表面変化があり清涼感を与える編織物等布帛に好適な糸条、およびかかる糸条を用いてなる杢調を与える布帛に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、緊密部と嵩高部による凹凸感を有した仮撚融着糸は公知であり、この融着糸を用いてなる布帛は、その糸条構造のもつ凹凸感により清涼感はある程度付与されるが、杢感は得られない。
【0003】
また、特許第2533084号公報には、色差を有する2種以上の糸条を用いて絣調杢外観を有する布帛を得ることが提案されており、ここで使用される糸条は緊密部と嵩高部を有し、その両者が2種の異なる染め差をもった杢感を有しているものである。さらに、特公昭62−25771号公報で提案の糸条は、この糸条を構成する各単繊維が繊維軸方向に交互に太細を有し、かつ、ランダムな直径の変化を有しておりその太部は高染着性を有していて、染着性のムラと交互ヨリのムラが必ずしも同調していないことを特徴としている。
【0004】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
このように従来技術では、糸条に緊密部と嵩高部をもたせることで、ある程度清涼感のある布帛を提供することはできるが、なお表面感は乏しく、また、2種以上の繊維糸条を使用しても緊密部と嵩高部の両方にランダムに杢感が現れてしまい、明瞭な杢感(ワルツ感)を得ることは困難である。さらに、単繊維の太部で染着性を高めても染着性のムラと交互ヨリのムラが同調しないことで、杢感はいわば自然なムラ感を呈し、やはりはっきりした杢感(ワルツ感)のある布帛を得ることはできない。
【0005】
本発明の目的は、従来技術の仮撚糸条とは異なり、それを用いて編織物等の布帛に構成した場合、その布帛表面にはっきりした杢感(ワルツ感)を表現でき、同時に強固に巻きついた撚糸部(A)とその反対のヨリを有し、ルーズに巻きついた撚糸状部(B)、および境界部(C)の相乗効果による凹凸感で表面変化に富んだ清涼感のある糸条を提供することにある。
【0006】
本発明の他の目的は、自然でかつ明瞭なムラのある杢感を呈し、凹凸感で表面変化に富んだ清涼感のある布帛を提供することにある。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は上記目的を達成せんとするものであって、本発明の糸条は、糸条を構成する単繊維が繊維長手方向に太細を有していてその太部は高染着性であり、該糸条は、SまたはZヨリ方向に強固に巻き付いた撚糸部(A)と、その反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた撚糸状部(B)とを交互に有し、かつ該撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)との間には境界部(C)が存在し、該境界部(C)の各々は、無撚部(C1)、または、Sヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する反転部(C2)のいずれかであり、該撚糸部(A)は該単繊維の太部を多く含み、また該撚糸状部(B)と境界部(C)は該単繊維の細部を多く含んでいる清涼感素材糸条である。
【0008】
また、本発明においては、清涼感素材糸条の好ましい実施態様として、前記撚糸部(A)は染色により主に濃色を呈し、撚糸状部(B)と境界部(C)は染色により主に淡色〜濃色を呈し、その淡色部が20〜100%で濃色部が0〜80%の割合となること、および前記撚糸部(A)が糸条1mあたり10〜150個存在し、そしてその1個の長さが50mm以下であることを包含する。
【0009】
そして、本発明の請求項4に記載の発明は、これまでにない清涼感素材糸条からなる明瞭な杢調感にあふれた布帛である。
【0010】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の清涼感素材糸条は、上記のように、糸条を構成する単繊維が繊維長手方向に太細を有していてその太部は高染着性であり、該糸条は、SまたはZヨリ方向に強固に巻き付いた撚糸部(A)と、その反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた撚糸状(B)とを交互に有し、かつ撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)との間には境界部(C)が存在し、該境界部(C)の各々は、無撚部(C1)、または、Sヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する反転部(C2)のいずれかであり、該撚糸部(A)は単繊維の太部を多く含み、また撚糸状部(B)と境界部(C)は単繊維の細部を多く含んでいることを特徴とする清涼感素材糸条である。
【0011】
このように本発明の糸条は、それを構成する単糸が太細部を有し、太部を多く含んだ部分は細部を多く含んだ部分より融点が低いため仮撚工程で繊維同志が融着し易く、強固に巻きついた撚糸部(A)となり、この部分は高染着部を多く含んでいるため濃色を呈する。
【0012】
一方、単繊維の細部を多く含んでいる部分、換言すれば太部が少ないかまたは太部が存在しない部分は、繊維間の融着性に乏しく、通常の仮撚加工糸のように解撚される融着した分では解撚されないため、細部を多く含む部分ではその分多く解撚され、撚糸部(A)とは方向のヨリでルーズに巻きついた撚糸状部(B)となり、高染着部を比較的多く含む部分と含まない部分が存在するときは中濃色と淡色を呈し、また高染着部を多く含まないときは淡色を呈する。
【0013】
本発明の糸条において、撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)の間に存在する境界部(C)は、ヨリ方向が反転する部分に存在するため無撚部(C1 )となり易く高染着部は若干残るが、布帛とした場合に布帛表面に明瞭に濃淡差を与える程の長さではない。また、境界部(C)において融着距離が極端に短い場合は、短い長さでSヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する反転部(C2 )となり、同様に布帛表面に濃淡差を与える程の長さではない。
【0014】
本発明の糸条において、撚糸部(A)は上記のように、単繊維の太部を多く含みSまたはZヨリ方向に強固に巻き付いた(加撚された)形状である。本発明において、単繊維の太部を多く含みとは、撚糸部(A)の単繊維の平均太さより太い部分が50%以上、好ましくは60%以上含まれている状態をいい、SまたはZヨリ方向に強固に巻き付いたとは、ヨリ数が好ましくは35〜85回/inchで、繊維同志の融着している部分が含まれていることをいう。
【0015】
本発明の強固に巻きついた撚糸部(A)は、好ましくは糸条1mあたり10〜150個、より好ましくは30〜100個存在し、その長さは好ましくは50mm以下、より好ましくは1〜30mmである。撚糸部(A)の個数が少ないと織物等布帛にした場合、濃色部同志が隣り合う確率が少なくなるため杢感が少なくなり、効果が表れにくい。また、その個数が多すぎると、濃色部が多くなることと、布帛にした場合に布帛表面の凹凸が大きくなり、透けた感じになる。
【0016】
また、本発明の糸条において、撚糸状部(B)は上記のように、単繊維の細部を多く含み、撚糸部(A)とその反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた形態を有している。ここに、単繊維の細部を多く含みとは、撚糸状部(B)の単繊維の平均太さより細い部分が50%以上、好ましくは60%以上含まれている状態をいい、その反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた形態とは、ヨリ数が好ましくは10〜45回/inchで、繊維同志の融着部分が存在しないか、または少ない状態をいう。
【0017】
本発明の撚糸状部(B)は、好ましくは糸条1mあたり10〜150個、より好ましくは30〜100個存在し、またその長さは好ましくは150mm以下、より好ましくは1〜100mmである。撚糸状部(B)の個数が少なくなると緊密部の比率が多くなるため、布帛表面の凹凸が大きくなって透けた感じになり、また、撚糸状部(B)の個数が多くなると嵩高部の特性が強調され清涼感が乏しくなる傾向を示す。
【0018】
さらに本発明において、撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)の間に存在する境界部(C)は、単繊維の細部を多く含むものであり、そして境界部(C)の各々は、無撚部(C1 )、または短い長さでSヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する反転部(C2 )のいずれかである。ここにおいて、無撚部(C1 )は実質的にヨリの存在しない部分である。また反転部(C2 )は、ヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する部分である。ここで、無ヨリ部は実質的にヨリの存在しない部分でありヨリ部およびヨリ部は通常1〜10回/inch程度のヨリを有している。
【0019】
本発明のこの境界部(C)は、好ましくは糸条1mあたり10〜200個、より好ましくは30〜150個存在し、その長さは好ましくは10mm以下、より好ましくは0.1〜5mmである。また、無撚部(C1 )と反転部(C2 )の割合は、本発明では0:100〜100:0であるが、好ましくは30:70〜70:30である。
【0020】
本発明で用いられる糸条は、ポリエステル、ポリアミド等の繊維形成性の熱可塑性樹脂からなるマルチフィラメント糸からなり、それを構成する単繊維はシックアンドシンヤーンタイプ糸のように繊維長手方向に太細を有しているフィラメント糸である。
【0021】
次に、本発明の清涼感素材糸条を図面に基づいて説明する。
【0022】
図1は、本発明の清涼感素材糸条の糸条形態を説明するためのモデル図である。図1中の上図において、本発明の糸条では、撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)が交互に現れ、両者(A)(B)の間には境界部(C)が存在し、該境界部(C)の各々は無撚部(C1)または反転部(C2 )のいずれかからなり、無ヨリ部(C 1 )と反転部(C 2 )は同一糸条内で併存していてもよい。
【0023】
図1中の下図に示すように、撚糸部(A)は、単糸の太部を多く含み、この太部を多く含んだ部分が融着して強固に巻きついた形状で、濃色状態を呈している。また、撚糸状部(B)は、単糸の細部を多く含み、撚糸部(A)と反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた形状で、主に淡色または淡色〜濃色を呈している。さらに、境界部の無撚部(C1 )および/または反転部(C2 )も、主に淡色または淡色〜濃色を呈している。なお、本発明において、淡色、中濃色および濃色は相対的な色差をもった概念で扱われる。
【0024】
本発明の糸条は、次のようにして製造することができる。図2は、本発明の清涼感素材糸条の製造プロセスを例示する概略工程図である。図2において、高配向未延伸糸等の原糸1は、ホットピン2に接触しつつローラ3間で延伸され、ついで1−stヒーター4と施撚体5で仮撚され、2−ndヒーター6でビリ止めセットされ巻き取られる。
【0025】
具体的には、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント等の高配向未延伸糸を、常温以上ガラス転移点以下の温度で、自然延伸倍率以下で延伸し、仮撚ゾーンで220℃以上250℃以下で仮撚することによって製造することができる。
【0026】
本発明の清涼感素材糸条は、これを織物の緯糸および/または経糸として用いて製織し染色することにより、杢調の明快な布帛とすることができる。
【0027】
【実施例】
(実施例1)
紡糸速度3,200m/min、自然延伸倍率(NDR)が40%の高配向未延伸糸125デニール、36フィラメントの原糸を用いて、まず延伸工程でホットピンに接触させながら、温度80℃、延伸倍率1.3倍、接触長60mmで延伸を行ない、糸速400m/minで仮撚フィード率−1%、1−stヒーター温度240℃で仮撚加工し、2−ndヒーター温度200℃でビリ止めセット加工した。
【0028】
得られた糸条を用い、経密度89本/inch、緯密度70本/inchの平織に製織し、染色仕上げを行なった結果、表面感は杢調感(ワルツ感)がはっきり現れ、かつ、凹凸感あり、見た目にも触感的にも清涼感に富んだ表面変化の大きい織物が得られた。
【0029】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、強固に巻きついた撚糸部(A)とその反対のヨリを有し、ルーズに巻きついた撚糸状部(B)、および境界部(C)の相乗効果による凹凸感で表面変化に富んだ清涼感のある糸条が提供される。
【0030】
また本発明によれば、経糸または緯糸の配列が重なり合うことで、濃色部の重なりと緊密部の重なりとの相乗効果により、濃淡が強調されはっきりした杢感に富んだ布帛が得られる。また、染色工程で染め条件により杢調感の強弱を自由に変化させることができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】 本発明の清涼感素材糸条の糸条形態を説明するためのモデル図である。
【図2】 本発明の清涼感素材糸条の製造プロセスを例示する概略工程図である。
【符号の説明】
1・・・原糸
2・・・ホットピン
3・・・ローラ
4・・・1−stヒーター
5・・・施撚体
6・・・2−ndヒーター
(A)・・撚糸部
(B)・・撚糸状部
(C1 )、(C 2)・・境界部
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a yarn suitable for a fabric such as a knitted fabric that has a surface change and gives a refreshing feeling, and a fabric that gives a tone using the yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, false twisted fused yarns having a feeling of unevenness due to tight parts and bulky parts are known, and a fabric made using this fused yarn is given a refreshing feeling due to the unevenness of the yarn structure. However, there is no feeling of jealousy.
[0003]
Japanese Patent No. 2533084 proposes to obtain a fabric having a tonal appearance using two or more kinds of yarns having a color difference. The yarn used here has a tight portion and a bulky shape. And both have a feeling of wrinkle with two different dyeing differences. Furthermore, the yarn proposed in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. Sho 62-25771 has each single fiber constituting the yarn alternately thick and thin in the fiber axis direction, and has a random diameter change. The thick part has a high dyeing property, and is characterized in that the unevenness of the dyeing property and the unevenness of the alternating twist are not necessarily synchronized.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
As described above, in the related art, by providing a tight part and a bulky part to the yarn, it is possible to provide a fabric with a certain degree of coolness, but the surface feeling is still poor, and two or more types of fiber yarns are used. Even if it is used, a feeling of wrinkle appears randomly in both the tight part and the bulky part, and it is difficult to obtain a clear feeling of wrinkle (waltz feeling). Furthermore, even if the dyeing property is enhanced with the thick part of the single fiber, the unevenness of the dyeing property and the unevenness of the alternating twist do not synchronize, so the feeling of wrinkle exhibits a natural feeling of unevenness. ) Cannot be obtained.
[0005]
The object of the present invention is different from the false twisted yarn of the prior art, and when it is used to form a fabric such as a knitted fabric, a clear wrinkle feeling (waltz feeling) can be expressed on the surface of the fabric, and at the same time it is firmly wound. The twisted yarn portion (A) and the opposite twist, the twisted yarn-like portion (B) wound loosely, and the sense of unevenness due to the synergistic effect of the boundary portion (C) has a refreshing feeling rich in surface change The purpose is to provide yarn.
[0006]
Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric with a refreshing feeling that exhibits a natural and clear uneven sensation and has a rough surface and a rich surface change.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention is intended to achieve the above object, and in the yarn of the present invention, the single fibers constituting the yarn are thick and thin in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and the thick portion is highly dyeable. And the yarn has alternately twisted yarn portions (A) tightly wound in the S or Z twist direction, and twisted yarn portions (B) wound around the loose having the twist in the opposite direction, and there boundary portion (C) is between the twisting portion (a) and the twisting-like portion (B), each of the boundary portion (C) is untwisted portion (C1), it was or, S Yo Li parts, are either reversing portion beauty Z twist section Oyo no twist section are mixed (C2),該撚thread portion (a) is rich in thick portions of the single fiber, also該撚filamentous portion (B) The boundary (C) is a refreshing material yarn that contains many details of the single fiber.
[0008]
In the present invention, as a preferred embodiment of the refreshing feeling material yarn, the twisted yarn portion (A) mainly exhibits a dark color by dyeing , and the twisted yarn-shaped portion (B) and the boundary portion (C) are mainly dyed. pale ~ exhibit dark, that the color portion is the dark color portion at 20-100% at a ratio from 0 to 80%, and the twisting portion (a) is present 10 to 150 per yarn 1m to, And it includes that the length of one piece is 50 mm or less.
[0009]
The invention according to claim 4 of the present invention is a fabric overflowing with a clear sense of tone composed of a refreshing feel yarn.
[0010]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As described above, the refreshing feeling material yarn of the present invention has a single fiber constituting the yarn that is thick and thin in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and its thick portion is highly dyeable. The twisted yarn portion (A) tightly wound in the S or Z twist direction and the twisted yarn shape portion (B) wound around the loose having the twist in the opposite direction alternately, and the twisted yarn portion (A) and the twisted yarn shape boundary between the parts (B) is present (C), each of the boundary portion (C) is untwisted portion (C1), was or, S Yo Li unit, no twisting unit and are either reversing section Z twist section are mixed (C2),該撚thread portion (a) is rich in thick portions of the monofilaments and twisted yarn-like portion (B) and the boundary portion (C) of the single fibers A refreshing yarn with a lot of details.
[0011]
Thus, in the yarn of the present invention, the single yarn constituting the yarn has thick details, and the portion containing many thick portions has a lower melting point than the portion containing many details. The twisted yarn portion (A) is easy to wear and tightly wound, and this portion has a deep color because it contains many highly dyed portions.
[0012]
Meanwhile, the portion containing many details of the single fiber, in other words no thick portion is present is small or thick portion if the portion is poor in fusibility between the fibers, the untwisting as usual false twisting yarn Is done . Since the fused the end with not untwisted, in a portion including many details are correspondingly much untwisting, twine-like portion wound around loosely in twist in the opposite direction to the twisting part (A) (B) becomes When a portion containing a relatively high dyeing portion and a portion not containing it are present, a medium dark color and a light color are exhibited, and when a portion containing a high dyeing portion is not contained, a light color is exhibited.
[0013]
In the yarn of the present invention, the boundary portion (C) existing between the twisted yarn portion (A) and the twisted yarn-like portion (B) is present at the portion where the twist direction is reversed, and therefore is easily turned into a non-twisted portion (C1). Although some dyed portions remain, the length is not so long as to give a clear contrast to the fabric surface when it is made into a fabric. Also, if the boundary in the (C) is extremely short fusion distance, S Yo Li section with a short length, the inversion portion (C2) next to beauty Z twist section Oyo no twist section are mixed, similarly fabric surface It is not long enough to give a difference in shading.
[0014]
In the yarn of the present invention, the twisted yarn portion (A) has a shape including many thick portions of single fibers and tightly wound (twisted) in the S or Z twist direction as described above. In the present invention, the term “containing a large amount of single fiber” means a state in which a portion thicker than the average thickness of the single fiber of the twisted portion (A) is contained by 50% or more, preferably 60% or more. “Wound tightly in the twist direction” means that the twist number is preferably 35 to 85 times / inch, and a portion where the fibers are fused is included.
[0015]
The tightly wound twisted yarn portion (A) of the present invention is preferably present at 10 to 150, more preferably 30 to 100, per 1 m of the yarn, and the length is preferably 50 mm or less, more preferably 1 to 1 mm. 30 mm. When the number of twisted yarn portions (A) is small, when fabrics such as woven fabrics are used, the probability that dark colored portions will be adjacent to each other is reduced, so that the feeling of dullness is reduced and the effect is hardly exhibited. Moreover, when there are too many the number, the dark part will increase, and when it is made into a fabric, the unevenness | corrugation of the fabric surface will become large, and it will be transparent.
[0016]
In addition, in the yarn of the present invention, the twisted portion (B) includes a lot of details of the single fiber as described above, and has a form wound around a loose portion having a twist in the opposite direction to the twisted portion (A). ing. Here, including a lot of details of the single fiber means a state in which a portion thinner than the average thickness of the single fiber of the twisted portion (B) is contained by 50% or more, preferably 60% or more, in the opposite direction. The form wound around the loose having a twist means a state where the twist number is preferably 10 to 45 times / inch and there is no or little fusion part between the fibers.
[0017]
The twisted yarn-like portion (B) of the present invention is preferably present in an amount of 10 to 150, more preferably 30 to 100, per 1 m of the yarn, and the length is preferably 150 mm or less, more preferably 1 to 100 mm. . When the number of the twisted parts (B) decreases, the ratio of the tight parts increases, so that the unevenness on the surface of the fabric becomes large, and it feels transparent, and when the number of the twisted parts (B) increases, the bulky part The characteristic is emphasized and the tendency to become less refreshing is shown.
[0018]
Furthermore, in the present invention, a boundary portion existing between the twisted-like part and the twisting part (A) (B) (C ) , each of a number Dressings containing details of a single fiber, and the boundary portion (C) is untwisted portion (C1), was or, S Yo Li section, Ru der either an inverting portion beauty Z twist section Oyo no twist section are mixed (C2) with a short length. Here, the untwisted portion (C1) is a portion where there is substantially no twist. The reversing unit (C2) is a portion S twist section, the beauty Z twisting unit Oyo untwisted portion coexist. Here, the twisted portion is a portion where there is substantially no twist , and the S twisted portion and the Z twisted portion usually have a twist of about 1 to 10 times / inch.
[0019]
This boundary portion (C) of the present invention is preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 30 to 150, per 1 m of the yarn, and the length is preferably 10 mm or less, more preferably 0.1 to 5 mm. is there. The ratio of untwisted portion (C 1) and the inverting section (C 2) is, in the present invention 0: 100 to 100: is a 0, preferably 30:70 to 70:30.
[0020]
The yarn used in the present invention is a multifilament yarn made of a fiber-forming thermoplastic resin such as polyester or polyamide, and the single fiber constituting the yarn is thick in the longitudinal direction of the fiber like a chic and thin yarn type yarn. It is a filament yarn having fineness.
[0021]
Next, the refreshing feeling yarn of the present invention will be described based on the drawings.
[0022]
FIG. 1 is a model diagram for explaining the yarn form of the refreshing material yarn of the present invention. In the upper drawing in FIG . 1 , in the yarn of the present invention, the twisted yarn portion (A) and the twisted yarn-like portion (B) appear alternately, and a boundary portion (C) exists between the two (A) and (B). and, each of the boundary portion (C) is untwisted portion (C1) or other Ri any Tona reversed portions (C2), untwisted portion (C 1) and the inverting section (C 2) are the same yarn May coexist within.
[0023]
As shown in the lower diagram of FIG. 1, the twisted yarn portion (A) includes a large portion of a single yarn, and the portion including a large amount of the thick portion is fused and tightly wound to form a dark color state. Presents. In addition, the twisted yarn-like portion (B) includes many details of a single yarn and is wound around a loose having a twist in the direction opposite to that of the twisted yarn portion (A), and mainly exhibits a light color or light to dark color. Further, the untwisted portion (C1) and / or the inversion portion (C2) at the boundary portion mainly exhibits a light color or light to dark color. In the present invention, light colors, medium dark colors, and dark colors are treated as concepts having relative color differences.
[0024]
The yarn of the present invention can be produced as follows. FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram illustrating the process for producing the refreshing feel yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 2, a raw yarn 1 such as a highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn between rollers 3 while being in contact with a hot pin 2, then false twisted by a 1-st heater 4 and a twisted body 5, and a 2-nd heater 6. The billiard is set and rolled up.
[0025]
Specifically, a highly oriented undrawn yarn such as polyester multifilament, at temperatures below room temperature higher than the glass transition point, stretched and false twisted at 220 ° C. or higher 250 ° C. or less in the false twist zone that the following natural draw ratio it is possible to manufacture by the.
[0026]
Cooling sensation material yarn Article of the present invention, which by weaving dyed to isosamples used as weft and / or warp of the fabric can be a clear fabric heather tone.
[0027]
【Example】
Example 1
Using a highly oriented undrawn yarn 125 denier with a spinning speed of 3,200 m / min and a natural draw ratio (NDR) of 40%, a filament of 36 filaments is first drawn at a temperature of 80 ° C. while contacting a hot pin in the drawing process. Stretching is performed at a magnification of 1.3 times, a contact length of 60 mm, false twist feed rate of 1% at a yarn speed of 400 m / min, false twisting at a 1-st heater temperature of 240 ° C., and a 2-nd heater temperature of 200 ° C. Stop set processing.
[0028]
As a result of weaving into a plain weave of warp density 89 / inch, weft density 70 / inch using the obtained yarn, and dyeing finish, the surface feeling clearly shows a sense of gradation (waltz feeling), and There is uneven feeling, also obtained a large fabric surface change rich in cooling sensation to tactile to the eye.
[0029]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, the twisted portion (A) tightly wound and the opposite twist, the twisted portion (B) wound loosely, and the unevenness due to the synergistic effect of the boundary portion (C) Yarn with a refreshing feeling rich in surface changes is provided.
[0030]
Further, according to the present invention, by overlapping the warp or weft arrangement, a fabric having a clear and rich feeling can be obtained by enhancing the shade by the synergistic effect of the overlap of the dark portion and the overlap of the close portion. In addition, the intensity of the tone can be freely changed according to the dyeing conditions in the dyeing process.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a model diagram for explaining a yarn form of a cool feeling material yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram illustrating a process for producing a refreshing feel yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Raw yarn 2 ... Hot pin 3 ... Roller 4 ... 1-st heater 5 ... Twisted body 6 ... 2-nd heater (A) .. Twisted yarn part (B) -Twisted thread-shaped part (C 1 ), (C 2 )-Boundary part

Claims (4)

糸条を構成する単繊維が繊維長手方向に太細を有していてその太部は高染着性であり、該糸条は、SまたはZヨリ方向に強固に巻き付いた撚糸部(A)と、その反対方向のヨリを有するルーズに巻き付いた撚糸状(B)とを交互に有し、かつ該撚糸部(A)と撚糸状部(B)との間には境界部(C)が存在し、該境界部(C)の各々は、無撚部(C1)、または、Sヨリ部、無ヨリ部およびZヨリ部が混在する反転部(C2)のいずれかであり、該撚糸部(A)は該単繊維の太部を多く含み、また該撚糸状部(B)と境界部(C)は該単繊維の細部を多く含んでいることを特徴とする清涼感素材糸条。A single yarn constituting the yarn has a fine thickness in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, the thick portion is highly dyeable, and the yarn is a twisted yarn portion (A) tightly wound in the S or Z twist direction And a twisted portion (B) wound around a loose having a twist in the opposite direction, and a boundary portion (C) between the twisted portion (A) and the twisted portion (B ) there exist, each of the boundary portion (C) is untwisted portion (C1), it was or, S Yo Li unit, either an inverting portion beauty Z twist section Oyo no twist section are mixed (C2) The twisted yarn portion (A) contains many thick portions of the single fiber , and the twisted yarn-like portion (B) and the boundary portion (C) contain many details of the single fiber. Refreshing material yarn. 前記撚糸部(A)は染色により主に濃色を呈し、該撚糸状部(B)と境界部(C)は染色により主に淡色〜濃色を呈し、淡色部が20〜100%で濃色部が0〜80%の割合となることを特徴とする請求項1記載の清涼感素材糸条。The twisted yarn portion (A) mainly exhibits a dark color by dyeing, and the twisted yarn portion (B) and the boundary portion (C) mainly exhibit a light color to a dark color by dyeing , and the light color portion is dark at 20 to 100%. The refreshing feeling material yarn according to claim 1, wherein the color portion is in a ratio of 0 to 80%. 前記撚糸部(A)は、該糸条1mあたり10〜150個存在し、かつその1個の長さが50mm以下であることを特徴とする請求項1または2記載の清涼感素材糸条。  The refreshing feeling material yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the twisted yarn portion (A) is present in an amount of 10 to 150 per 1 m of the yarn, and the length of each one is 50 mm or less. 請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の清涼感素材糸条からなる杢調布帛。A tanned fabric comprising the refreshing feeling yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3.
JP09310997A 1997-03-27 1997-03-27 Cool material yarn and fabric Expired - Lifetime JP3893550B2 (en)

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WO2013191284A1 (en) 2012-06-22 2013-12-27 東レ株式会社 Polyester false-twisted low-melt yarn and multilayer-structure woven knitted article

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