JP3688859B2 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

【００２３】
〔式中、Ｒ¹、Ｒ²及びＲ³は炭素数１〜45の飽和又は不飽和の直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭化水素基を示し、Ｘ¹、Ｘ²及びＸ³は水素原子、アルカリ金属原子又はアンモニウムを示す。〕
【００２４】
上記一般式(1)及び(2)中、Ｒ¹〜Ｒ³で示される炭化水素基は、炭素数１〜45のものであるが、特に炭素数８以上のものが望ましい。炭素数８未満であると、そのアルキルリン酸金属塩が粘着性を示し、滑沢性、延展性が低下するおそれがある。かかる炭化水素基としては、例えば、オクチル、ノニル、デシル、ドデシル、ウンデシル、トリデシル、テトラデシル、ペンタデシル、ヘキサデシル、ヘプタデシル、オクタデシル、ノナデシル、エイコシル、ヘンエイコシル、ドコシル、トリコシル、テトラコシル、ペンタコシル、ヘキサコシル、ヘプタコシル、オクタコシル、ノナコシル、トリアコンチル、ヘントリアコンチル、ドトリアコンチル、オクテニル、ノネニル、デセニル、ドデセニル、ウンデセニル、トリデセニル、テトラデセニル、ペンタデセニル、ヘキサデセニル、ヘプタデセニル、オクタデセニル、ノナデセニル、エイコセニル、ヘンエイコセニル、ドコセニル、トリコセニル、テトラコセニル、ペンタコセニル、ヘキサコセニル、ヘプタコセニル、オクタコセニル、ノナコセニル、トリアコンテニル、ヘントリアコンテニル、ドトリアコンテニル、オクタジエニル、ノナジエニル、デカジエニル、ドデカジエニル、ウンデカジエニル、トリデカジエニル、テトラデカジエニル、ペンタデカジエニル、ヘキサデカジエニル、ヘプタデカジエニル、オクタデカジエニル、ノナデカジエニル、エイコサジエニル、ヘンエイコサジエニル、ドコサジエニル、トリコサジエニル、テトラコサジエニル、ペンタコサジエニル、ヘキサコサジエニル、ヘプタコサジエニル、オクタコサジエニル、ノナコサジエニル、トリアコンタジエニル、ヘントリアコンタジエニル、ドトリアコンタジエニル、2-ヘキシルデシル、2-オクチルウンデシル、2-デシルテトラデシル、2-ウンデシルヘキサデシル、2-テトラデシルオクタデシル基等が挙げられる。また、上記一般式(1)及び(2)中、Ｘ¹〜Ｘ³で示されるアルカリ金属としては、カリウム、ナトリウム等が挙げられ、Ｘ¹〜Ｘ³で示されるアンモニウムとしては、モノエタノールアミン、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン、トリイソプロパノールアミン、モルホリン、アルギニン等のアミンから導かれるものが挙げられる。
【００２５】
一般式(1)又は(2)で表されるアルキルリン酸又はその塩の具体例としては、ジセチルリン酸、モノラウリルリン酸、モノラウリルリン酸のナトリウム塩、カリウム塩又はアミン塩、ジセチルリン酸のナトリウム塩、カリウム塩又はアミン塩等が挙げられる。
【００２６】
N-モノ長鎖（炭素数８〜22）脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を構成する塩基性アミノ酸としては、α,γ-ジアミノ酪酸、オルニチン、リジン、アルギニン、ヒスチジン等が挙げられる。これらは光学活性体であってもラセミ体であってもよい。長鎖脂肪族アシル基としては炭素数８〜22の飽和又は不飽和の直鎖又は分岐鎖の脂肪族アシル基が挙げられ、単一鎖長のものであっても混合鎖長のものであってもよい。具体的には、2-エチルヘキサノイル、カプリロイル、カプロイル、ラウロイル、ミリストイル、パルミトイル、ステアロイル、イソステアロイル、オレオイル、ベヘノイル、ココイル、牛脂脂肪酸アシル、硬化牛脂脂肪酸アシル等が挙げられる。長鎖アシル基の塩基性アミノ酸ヘの結合部位は、α位のアミノ基あるいはω位のアミノ基であるが、アルギニン及びヒスチジンにおいてはα位のアミノ基に限定される。具体例としては、Nε-2-エチルヘキサノイルリジン、Nε-ラウロイルリジン、Nε-ココイルリジン、Nε-パルミトイルリジン、Nε-イソステアロイルリジン、Nε-硬化牛脂脂肪酸アシルリジン、Nα-カプリロイルリジン、Nα-ラウロイルリジン、Nα-ミリストイルリジン、Nα-オレオイルリジン、Nα-ベヘノイルリジン、Nδ-ココイルオルニチン、Nδ-ステアロイルオルニチン、Nδ-牛脂脂肪酸アシルオルニチン、Nα-エチルヘキサノイルオルニチン、Nα-ラウロイルオルニチン、Nα-イソステアロイルオルニチン、Nγ-パルミトイル−α，γ−ジアミノ酪酸、Nα-牛脂脂肪酸アシル-α,γ-ジアミノ酪酸、Nα-カプロイルアルギニン、Nα-ラウロイルアルギニン、Nα-パルミトイルアルギニン、Nα-硬化牛脂脂肪酸アシルアルギニン、Nα-ココイルヒスチジン、Nα-イソステアロイルヒスチジン等が挙げられるが、これらの例に限定されない。
【００２７】
パーフルオロアルキル基を有するフッ素化合物としては、例えば次の一般式(3)
【００２８】
(Ｃ_mＦ_2m+1Ｃ_nＨ_2nＯ)_yＰＯ(ＯＨ)_3-y (3)
〔式中、ｍは４〜14の整数を示し、ｎは１〜12の整数を示し、ｙは１〜３の整数を示す。〕
【００２９】
で表されるパーフルオロアルキルリン酸（米国特許第3632744号明細書）、フルオロアルキルジ（オキシエチル）アミンリン酸エステル（特開昭62-250074号公報）、パーフルオロアルキル基を有する樹脂（特開昭55-167209号公報）、四フッ化エチレン樹脂、パーフルオロアルコール、パーフルオロエポキシ化合物、スルホアミド型フルオロリン酸、パーフルオロ硫酸塩、パーフルオロカルボン酸塩、パーフルオロアルキルシラン（特開平2-218603号公報）等が挙げられる。
【００３０】
粉体を疎水化処理する方法としては、特に限定されるものではないが、例えば以下に示す方法が挙げられる。
【００３１】
粉体のシリコーン油による処理は、例えばシリコーン油の一種又は二種以上を適量のヘキサン等に溶解したものに粉体を分散させ、溶剤留去後100〜200℃で２〜10時間処理し、その後乾燥することにより行うことができる。
【００３２】
粉体のアルキルリン酸又はその塩による処理は、一般式(1)又は(2)中のＸ¹とＸ²、又はＸ³が水素である場合、例えばアルキルリン酸をイソプロピルアルコール、ヘキサン等の溶剤で溶解したものに粉体を分散させ、50℃〜70℃で１〜３時間処理し、溶剤留去後乾燥することにより行うことができる。また一般式(1)又は(2)中のＸ¹、又はＸ²とＸ³が水素以外である場合（アルカリ金属又はアンモニウムである場合）は、例えばアルキルリン酸のアルカリ金属塩又はアミン塩を水に溶解したものに粉体を分散させ、50〜70℃で１〜３時間処理し、その後適当な酸で中和した後、熱時濾過し、エタノール水溶液で洗浄後、乾燥することにより行うことができる。
【００３３】
また、粉体をN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸で処理する方法としては乾式法及び湿式法のいずれの方法も用いることができる。乾式法は簡便かつ効果的であって、N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸の微細粉末を粉体と攪拌混合するか、もしくはN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸と粉体を混合した後、共粉砕することによって、粉体の表面を容易に処理できる。湿式法は、N-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸が中性付近の水及び通常の油にほとんど溶解しないため、塩化カルシウムを可溶化剤として用いてN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を有機溶剤に溶解した後、粉体を接触させ、更に水洗して塩化カルシウムを除去して乾燥することにより、粉体の表面を処理できる。あるいは酸性もしくはアルカリ性の水又は水性溶媒中にN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を溶解して粉体を接触させた後、中性付近まで中和して粉体表面にN-モノ長鎖脂肪族アシル塩基性アミノ酸を析出付着させ、中和によって生じた塩を水洗により除去し、乾燥することによっても同様の表面処理ができる（特開昭61-7202号公報、，特開昭61-10503号公報）。
【００３４】
粉体に対する疎水化処理剤の処理量は、0.05〜20重量％、特に２〜10重量％が、十分な疎水性、良好な感触及び耐光性が得られ好ましい。
【００３５】
このようにして得られる(A)成分は、本発明の皮膚化粧料中に0.1〜90重量％、特に１〜80重量％配合されるのが好ましい。
【００３６】
本発明で用いる(B)成分の酸化亜鉛は、比表面積が10〜100m²/gの範囲にあることが必要であり、20〜80m²/gの範囲にあるのが好ましい。比表面積が10m²/g未満では皮脂吸収能が十分でなく、化粧くずれを生じやすくなり、100m²/gを超えると粉っぽくなり、使用感が悪化する。
【００３７】
(B)成分も、(A)成分と同様に疎水化処理して使用することが好ましいが、フッ素化合物で表面処理を行うと皮脂になじまなくなるので好ましくない。また、(B)成分は、球状粉体等の感触向上可能な他の粉体と複合化を行ってから配合することもできる。
【００３８】
(B)成分は、本発明の皮膚化粧料中に0.1〜99重量％、特に２〜90重量％配合されるのが好ましい。
【００３９】
本発明の皮膚化粧料には、上記の必須成分である(A)成分及び(B)成分のほかに、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で必要に応じて、通常の化粧料に配合される成分、例えば各種オイル、界面活性剤、水溶性高分子、他の粉体、保湿剤、防腐剤、薬剤、紫外線吸収剤、色素、無機塩又は有機酸塩、香料、キレート剤、pH調整剤、水等を配合することができる。
【００４０】
オイルとしては、例えば流動パラフィン、ワセリン、パラフィンワックス、スクワラン、ミツロウ、カルナウバロウ、オリーブ油、ラノリン、高級アルコール、脂肪酸、高級脂肪酸、エステル油、セレシン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、キャンデリラロウ、ジグリセライド、トリグリセライド、シリコーン油、パーフルオロポリエーテル、パーフルオロデカリン、パーフルオロオクタン、ホホバ油、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール等の化粧品に汎用される油分が用いられる。
【００４１】
界面活性剤としては、例えばポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビトール脂肪酸エステル等の非イオン性界面活性剤；ステアリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸トリエタノールアミン等の脂肪酸石鹸で代表されるアニオン性界面活性剤；及びカチオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤等の化粧品に汎用される界面活性剤が用いられる。
【００４２】
水溶性高分子としては、例えばカルボキシメチルセルロース、メチルセルロース、ヒドロキシメチルセルロース、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルピロリドン、トラガントガム、カラギーナン、ローカストビーンガム、デキストリン、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、カルボキシビニルポリマー、キサンタンガム、ゼラチン、アルギン酸ナトリウム、アラビアゴム等の化粧品に汎用される水溶性高分子が用いられる。
【００４３】
他の粉体としては、例えばタルク、マイカ、カオリン、セリサイト、白雲母、合成雲母、金雲母、紅雲母、黒雲母、リチア雲母、バーミキュライト、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、珪藻土、珪酸マグネシウム、珪酸カルシウム、珪酸アルミニウム、珪酸バリウム、珪酸ストロンチウム、タングステン酸金属塩、ヒドロキシアパタイト、含水珪酸、無水珪酸、酸化マグネシウム、ベントナイト、ゼオライト、セラミクスパウダー、水酸化アルミニウム等の無機粉体；ナイロンパウダー、ポリエチレンパウダー、ポリメチルベンゾグアナミンパウダー、ポリメチルメタクリレートパウダー、四フッ化エチレンパウダー、微結晶性セルロース、コメデンプン、ラウロイルリジン等の有機粉体；ステアリン酸カルシウム、ステアリン酸亜鉛、ステアリン酸マグネシウム、ミリスチン酸マグネシウム、セチルリン酸カルシウム、セチルリン酸亜鉛ナトリウム等の界面活性剤金属塩粉体；酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化鉄（ベンガラ）、チタン酸鉄、水酸化鉄、黄土、黒酸化鉄、カーボンブラック、マンゴバイオレット、コバルトバイオレット、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、コバルトチタン、群青、紺青等の無機着色粉体；酸化チタンコーティング雲母、酸化チタンコーティングオキシ塩化ビスマス、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化チタンコーティングタルク、魚鱗箔、着色酸化チタンコーティング雲母等のパール顔料；アルミニウムパウダー、ステンレスパウダー、カッパーパウダー等の金属粉末等の化粧品に汎用される粉体、及びこれらをシリコーン又はフッ素化合物で処理した粉体が用いられる。
【００４４】
保湿剤としては、例えばソルビトール、キシリトール、グリセリン、マルチトール、プロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、1,4-ブチレングリコール、ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム、乳酸、乳酸ナトリウム、ポリエチレングリコール等の化粧品に汎用される保湿剤が用いられる。
【００４５】
防腐剤としては、例えばパラオキシ安息香酸アルキルエステル、安息香酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム等の化粧品に汎用される防腐剤が用いられる。
【００４６】
薬剤としては、例えばビタミン類、生薬、消炎剤、殺菌剤等の化粧品に汎用される薬剤が用いられる。
【００４７】
紫外線吸収剤としては、例えばパラアミノ安息香酸系紫外線吸収剤、アントラニル系紫外線吸収剤、サリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤、桂皮酸系紫外線吸収剤、ベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤等の化粧品に汎用される紫外線吸収剤が用いられる。
【００４８】
色素としては、例えば赤色３号、赤色104号、赤色106号、赤色201号、赤色202号、赤色204号、赤色205号、赤色220号、赤色226号、赤色227号、赤色228号、赤色230号、赤色401号、赤色505号、黄色４号、黄色５号、黄色202号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色401号、青色１号、青色２号、青色201号、青色404号、緑色３号、緑色201号、緑色204号、緑色205号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色206号、橙色207号等のタール色素；カルミン酸、ラッカイン酸、ブラジリン、クロシン等の天然色素等の化粧品に汎用される色素が用いられる。
【００４９】
無機塩又は有機酸塩としては、塩酸、硫酸、硝酸等の無機酸；クエン酸、酒石酸、乳酸、リンゴ酸等のオキシカルボン酸；ギ酸、酢酸、ソルビン酸等のカルボン酸；又はサリチル酸、安息香酸等の芳香族カルボン酸のアルカリ金属塩、アルカリ土類金属塩又はアルミニウム塩が挙げられる。好ましい無機塩又は有機酸塩の具体例としては、硫酸カリウム、硫酸ナトリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、硫酸アルミニウム、硝酸カリウム、硝酸ナトリウム、硝酸マグネシウム、硝酸アルミニウム、硝酸カルシウム、塩化カリウム、塩化マグネシウム、塩化ナトリウム、塩化カルシウム、塩化アルミニウム、炭酸カリウム、炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸アルミニウム、酢酸カリウム、酢酸ナトリウム、酢酸カルシウム、酢酸マグネシウム、ギ酸ナトリウム、ギ酸カリウム、ギ酸マグネシウム、クエン酸ナトリウム、酒石酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム、ソルビン酸ナトリウム、サリチル酸ナトリウム、安息香酸カリウム、安息香酸ナトリウム等が挙げられ、特に硫酸カリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、塩化カリウム、塩化マグネシウム、塩化アルミニウム、クエン酸ナトリウム、酒石酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム、サリチル酸ナトリウム及び安息香酸ナトリウムが好ましい。これらの無機塩又は有機酸塩は、塩の状態で化粧料組成中に配合してもよいが、化粧料製造時に対応する酸物質及び塩基物質を、塩を形成するのに必要な化学量論的量加えることにより生成せしめてもよい。
【００５０】
また、水は任意の量で配合することができる。
【００５１】
本発明の皮膚化粧料は、常法に従って製造することができ、例えば化粧水、乳液、クリーム等の基礎化粧料；粉白粉、固形白粉、フェイスパウダー、パウダーファンデーション、油性ファンデーション、クリーム状ファンデーション、リキッドファンデーション、コンシーラー、口紅、リップクリーム、頬紅、アイライナー、アイシャドウ、アイブロウ等のメークアップ化粧料などとすることができる。
【００５２】
ここで、本発明の皮膚化粧料中の(A)成分の好ましい配合量は前述の通りであるが、通常、配合する全粉体の0.1重量％以上、特に２〜80重量％であるのが好ましい。更に、化粧水の場合は全組成中に0.1〜10重量％、特に0.5〜５重量％配合するのが好ましく、乳液及びクリームの場合は0.1〜10重量％、特に0.5〜７重量％、粉白粉、固形白粉及びフェイスパウダーの場合は0.1〜80重量％、特に１〜50重量％、パウダーファンデーション及び油性ファンデーションの場合は0.1〜80重量％、特に１〜25重量％、クリーム状ファンデーション、リキッドファンデーション及びコンシーラーの場合は0.1〜10重量％、特に0.5〜７重量％、口紅及びリップクリームの場合は0.1〜20重量％、特に0.5〜10重量％、頬紅及びアイシャドウの場合は0.1〜40重量％、特に0.5〜25重量％、アイライナー及びアイブロウの場合は0.1〜30重量％、特に0.5〜20重量％配合するのが好ましい。
【００５３】
【実施例】
以下、実施例を挙げて本発明を更に詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。なお、以下の実施例において、平均粒径はSK Laser Micron Sizer（セイシン企業製）で湿式にて測定した値である。
【００５４】
試験例１
各種パール粉体を黒色の合成皮革上に８mg/100cm²均一塗布し、これを変角分光測定システム（村上色彩技術研究所製，GCMS-3）を用い、入射光角45°、受光角-45°及び-20°で測色した。この測定値から、２つの干渉色（Ｌ_45,45 ^*, ａ_45,45 ^*, ｂ_45,45 ^*）及び（Ｌ_45,20 ^*, ａ_45,20 ^*, ｂ_45,20 ^*）の色差（ΔＥ）を前記式より求めた。この結果を表１に示す。
【００５５】
【表１】

【００５６】
実施例１（パウダーファンデーション）
表２に示す組成のパウダーファンデーションを、下記製法に従って製造し、これらのファンデーションを使用した際の仕上り及び化粧持ちを下記評価方法に従って評価した。この結果を表２に併せて示す。
【００５７】
（製法）
成分(1)〜(11)を混合し粉砕機を通して粉砕する。これを高速ブレンダーに移し、更に成分(12)〜(14)を80℃に混合溶解したものを加えて均一混合する。この混合物に成分(15)を加え、混合した後再び粉砕しふるいを通す。これを金皿に圧縮成型する。
【００５８】
（評価方法）
各パウダーファンデーションを肌に塗布したときの透明感、鏡で見る角度による肌色の違い、血色の良さ、ギラツキ感のなさ、カバー力及び４時間後の化粧持ちを評価した。評価は、専門パネラー14名により、各項目とも「良い」を５点、「やや良い」を４点、「普通」を３点、「やや悪い」を２点、「悪い」を１点として行い、その平均値で示した。
【００５９】
【表２】

【００６０】
表２から明らかなように、本発明の皮膚化粧料を塗布した場合にはいずれも、透明感が高く、観測方向による色の変化がなく、それぞれの光の色の特徴が発揮されていた。またギラツキ感がなく、自然な仕上りで、かつカバー力及び化粧持ちも良好であった。
【００６１】
実施例２（クリーム状ファンデーション）
下記組成のクリーム状ファンデーションを下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) ステアリン酸 5.5
(2) 親油型モノステアリン酸グリセリン 2.5
(3) セトステアリルアルコール 1.0
(4) モノラウリルプロピレングリコール 3.0
(5) スクワラン 7.0
(6) オリーブ油 8.0
(7) 精製水 残量
(8) 防腐剤 適量
(9) トリエタノールアミン 1.2
(10)ソルビット 3.0
(11)酸化チタン 8.0
(12)タルク 5.0
(13)着色顔料（黒酸化鉄，ベンガラ，黄酸化鉄） 適量
(14)酸化亜鉛（比表面積25m²/g）^*1 4.0
(15)疎水化青系パール剤（ΔＥ＝26.5）^*2 5.0
(16)香料 微量
【００６２】
＊１：堺化学工業社製，FINEX-25
＊２：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Blueをジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したもの
【００６３】
（製法）
成分(11)〜(15)を混合し、粉砕機を通して粉砕する。別に水相成分(7)〜(10)を混合した溶液を調製し、粉砕した顔料を加えて分散した後、75℃に加熱する。油相成分(1)〜(6)を80℃に加熱溶解したものを、先に調製した水相に撹拌しながら加え、乳化する。これを撹拌しながら冷却し、50℃で成分(16)を加え撹拌しながら冷却し、製品を得る。
【００６４】
実施例３（粉白粉）
下記組成の粉白粉を下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) マイカ 残量
(2) 紫系パール剤（ΔＥ＝27.5）^*1 8.0
(3) 酸化亜鉛（比表面積75m²/g）^*2 5.0
(4) タルク 30.0
(5) 酸化チタン 0.5
(6) ベンガラ 0.1
(7) 黄酸化鉄 0.1
(8) 黒酸化鉄 0.01
(9) ステアリン酸マグネシウム 10.0
(10)防腐剤 適量
【００６５】
＊１：マール社製，Flamenco SATIN Violet
＊２：堺化学工業社製，FINEX-75
【００６６】
（製法）
全成分を混合し、粉砕機を通して粉砕しふるいを通して製品とする。
【００６７】
実施例４（固形白粉）
下記組成の固形白粉を下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) マイカ 残量
(2) 混合疎水化パール剤（ΔＥ＝26.0）^*1 50.0
(3) 酸化亜鉛（比表面積50m²/g）^*2 6.0
(4) タルク 20.0
(5) 酸化チタン 0.5
(6) ベンガラ 0.1
(7) 黄酸化鉄 0.1
(8) 黒酸化鉄 0.01
(9) 流動パラフィン 8.0
(10)ミツロウ 2.0
(11)防腐剤 適量
(12)香料 微量
【００６８】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Violet及びFlamenco SATIN Greenをそれぞれジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したものの等量混合物
＊２：堺化学工業社製，FINEX-50
【００６９】
（製法）
成分(1)〜(8)を混合し、粉砕機を通して粉砕する。これを高速ブレンダーに移し、更に成分(9)〜(11)を80℃で混合溶解したものを加えて均一に混合する。この混合物に成分(12)を加え混合した後再び粉砕しふるいを通す。これを金皿に圧縮成型する。
【００７０】
実施例５（頬紅）
下記組成の頬紅を下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) マイカ 残量
(2) 混合疎水化赤系パール剤（ΔＥ＝20.0）^*1 20.0
(3) タルク 20.0
(4) 酸化亜鉛（比表面積25m²/g）^*2 7.0
(5) 酸化チタン 4.0
(6) ステアリン酸亜鉛 5.0
(7) コメデンプン 5.0
(8) 色材 3.0
(9) 流動パラフィン 3.0
(10)防腐剤 適量
(11)香料 微量
【００７１】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Red及びFlamenco SATIN OrangeをそれぞれN-ラウロイルリジンで処理したものの等量混合物
＊２：堺化学工業社製，FINEX-25
【００７２】
（製法）
成分(1)〜(8)を混合し、展色する。次に、混合機の中で成分(9)〜(11)を噴霧して加え、均一に混合し、ふるいを通した後プレス機を使って金皿の中に圧縮し固める。
【００７３】
実施例６（アイシャドウ）
下記組成のアイシャドウを下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) マイカ 残量
(2) 混合疎水化青紫系パール剤（ΔＥ＝24.3）^*1 20.0
(3) タルク 5.0
(4) 酸化亜鉛（比表面積75m²/g）^*2 7.0
(5) 雲母チタン 5.0
(6) ステアリン酸亜鉛 5.0
(7) ラウリン酸亜鉛 3.0
(8) 着色顔料（黒酸化鉄，ベンガラ，黄酸化鉄） 10.0
(9) 流動パラフィン 7.0
(10)防腐剤 適量
(11)香料 微量
【００７４】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Blue及びFlamenco SATIN Violetをそれぞれジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したものの等量混合物
＊２：堺化学工業社製，FINEX-75
【００７５】
（製法）
実施例５と同様にして目的のアイシャドウを製造した。
【００７６】
実施例７（口紅）
下記組成の口紅を下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) 酸化チタン 残量
(2) 赤色201号 1.0
(3) 赤色202号 2.0
(4) 黄色４号アルミニウムレーキ 1.0
(5) 赤色223号 0.1
(6) 疎水化赤系パール剤（ΔＥ＝27.5）^*1 5.0
(7) 疎水化酸化亜鉛（比表面積25m²/g）^*2 4.0
(8) ヒマシ油 46.0
(9) オクチルドデカノール 15.0
(10)ラノリン 5.0
(11)液状ラノリン 5.0
(12)ミツロウ 5.0
(13)オゾケライト 4.0
(14)キャンデリラロウ 7.0
(15)カルナウバロウ 1.0
(16)酸化防止剤 適量
(17)防腐剤 適量
(18)香料 微量
【００７７】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Orangeをジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したもの
＊２：堺化学工業社製FINEX-25をジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したもの
【００７８】
（製法）
成分(8)〜(15)を加熱融解し均一に混合する。これに(1)〜(7)を加え、ロールミルで練り均一に分散させた後、再融解して(16)〜(18)を加え、脱泡してから型に流し込み急冷して固める。固まったものを型から取り出し、容器に充填する。次にスティックの外観を整えてから炎の中を通し、表面を均一にする。
【００７９】
実施例８（アイライナー）
下記組成のアイライナーを下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) カルナウバロウ 5.0
(2) ミツロウ 1.0
(3) マイクロクリスタリンワックス 10.0
(4) 白色ワセリン 1.0
(5) 有機ベントナイト 0.5
(6) 軽質流動イソパラフィン 残量
(7) 疎水化青系パール剤（ΔＥ＝31.9）^*1 10.0
(8) 疎水化酸化亜鉛（比表面積50m²/g）^*2 5.0
(9) 酸化チタン 3.0
(10)カーボンブラック 2.0
(11)防腐剤 適量
【００８０】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN BlueをN-ウラロイルリジンで処理したもの
＊２：大阪住友セメント社製ZnO-350をジメチルポリシロキサンで処理したもの
【００８１】
（製法）
成分(6)の一部に(5)を加え、コロイドミルを通して分散させ、ゲル化させる。一方(1)〜(4)及び(11)を混合し、加熱して溶解し、(7)〜(10)を加えた後冷却してロールミルで練り、再び加熱してとかした中に、ベントナイトゲルと残部の(6)を加え、撹拌しながら冷却する。
【００８２】
実施例９（Ｏ／Ｗ型クリーム）
下記組成のＯ／Ｗ型クリームを下記製法によって製造した。
（組成） (重量％)
(1) ミツロウ 5.5
(2) セタノール 4.5
(3) 水添ラノリン 7.0
(4) スクワラン 33.0
(5) 脂肪酸グリセリン 3.5
(6) 親油型モノステアリン酸グリセリン 2.0
(7) ポリオキシエチレン(20)ソルビタンモノラウリン酸エステル 2.0
(8) 混合疎水化青紫系パール剤（ΔＥ＝24.3）^*1 4.0
(9) 酸化亜鉛（比表面積50m²/g）^*2 4.0
(10)香料 0.1
(11)防腐剤 0.2
(12)酸化防止剤 0.1
(13)プロピレングリコール 10.0
(14)精製水 残量
【００８３】
＊１：マール社製Flamenco SATIN Blue及びFlamenco SATIN Violetをメチルポリシロキサンで処理したものの等量混合物
＊２：大阪住友セメント社製，ZnO-350
【００８４】
（製法）
成分(8)、(9)、(11)、(12)及び(14)を撹拌混合し、80℃に保つ。他の成分を混合し、加熱溶解して80℃とする。この油相部に前述の水相部を加えて予備乳化し、ホモミキサーで均一に乳化した後30℃まで冷却して製品を得る。
【００８５】
実施例２〜９で得られた皮膚化粧料は、いずれも透明感が高く自然な仕上がりで、観測方向による色の変化がなく、肌の色相を変化させることができ、しかも化粧持ちが良好なものであった。
【００８６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の皮膚化粧料は、観測方向による色の変化がなく、自然な仕上がりで、透明感を持たせつつ、肌の色相を変化させることができ、かつ経時で仕上りが変化せず長時間塗布直後の仕上りを持続させることができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that can change the hue of the skin while having a transparent feeling, and that the finish does not change with time and the finish immediately after application for a long time is maintained.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, makeup cosmetics are applied to change the texture of the skin, so a powder with a strong diffuse reflection is blended to obtain a matte finish, or a powder with a strong specular reflection such as mica is blended. I get a glossy finish. Also, in order to cover dullness of the skin due to poor blood circulation and aging (skin dark and yellow), pigments with high hiding power such as titanium oxide and iron oxide are blended, bengara, lake pigment, organic pigment Such as red is added to change the skin hue.
[0003]
On the other hand, to hide the red face and red acne scars, it is possible to change the skin hue sensation by using a green pigment that is a complementary color of red, or by using a blue or purple pigment to give a sense of transparency. Has been done.
[0004]
However, when a pigment having high hiding power is used, there is a problem in that there is no sense of transparency and an unnatural finish is obtained. In addition, when the principle of complementary colors is used, there is a problem that although the hue can be covered, the saturation is lowered and the skin color is dull.
[0005]
Even if it becomes possible to change the hue of the skin while giving a transparent feeling, if the makeup is lost due to sebum or the like, the changed hue cannot be maintained. Therefore, in recent years, for the purpose of preventing makeup loss due to sebum, it has been proposed to impart water and oil repellency by treating the powder surface with a fluorine compound (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-167209, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-167209). No. 62-250074, JP-A-1-80811, US Pat. No. 3,632,744, etc.). However, when such a fluorinated powder is used frequently in makeup cosmetics, there is a problem that oil, sebum and the like that are ejected are scattered and become conspicuous.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Therefore, the object of the present invention is that there is no change in color depending on the observation direction, it is possible to change the hue of the skin while having a transparent feeling, and the finish immediately after application for a long time without being broken by sebum etc. It is to provide a skin cosmetic that can be sustained.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In such a situation, the present inventors have diligently studied, the conventional makeup cosmetics are not transparent, and the skin color is dull because the hue control method is based on subtractive color mixing, It seems that the cause is that the more colors are superimposed, the lower the saturation and the closer it is to gray, and this problem can be solved by using the principle of additive color mixing, that is, color mixing using light I thought it was possible. And, if the powder (A) having a specific color difference and the zinc oxide (B) having a specific specific surface area are used in combination, the surface interference color produced by the powder (A) gives the skin a sense of transparency. The inventors have found that a skin cosmetic that can change the hue and that does not cause makeup loss due to sebum is obtained, and the present invention has been completed.
[0008]
That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) and (B)
(A): a powder coated with particles of a mixture of iron oxide the surface of mica and titanium oxide, said powder coated 8 mg / 100 cm ² uniformly on synthetic leather black, incident light angle this 45 °, when color measurement by the light receiving angle -45 ° and ^{-20 °, CIE1976L * a * b} * 2 one interference colors defined by the color system _{^{(L 45,45 *, a 45,45 *}} , b 45, ₄₅ ^* ) and ( _L45,20 ^* , _a45,20 ^* , _b45,20 ^* ), the following formula: ΔE = [( _L45,45 ^* _−L45,20 ^* ) ² + (a _{45, 45} ^* −a _45,20 ^* ) ² + (b _45,45 ^* −b _45,20 ^* ) ² ] The color difference (ΔE) obtained by ^0.5 is 20.0 to 32.3 , and the average particle size is 5 to 12 μm. A powder
(B): A skin cosmetic characterized by containing zinc oxide having a specific surface area of 10 to 100 m ² / g.
[0009]
Conventionally, pearl powder has been blended into foundations, etc., but in this case, the glossiness that is unique to pearls creates a glare, resulting in a poor finish and an observation angle. The color tone due to the pearly feeling or interference may change. This is because the conventionally used pearl powder has an interference color that is directional with respect to the incident angle of light, is strongly expressed in the vicinity of regular reflection, and is hardly observable in other directions.
[0010]
On the other hand, the powder of component (A) used in the present invention has little change in color tone depending on the observation angle, that is, it does not produce interference color only in the vicinity of regular reflection, but can observe interference color over a wide range. .
[0011]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In order to determine the color difference (ΔE) of the powder of component (A) used in the present invention, first take 8 mg / 100 cm ^{2 of} powder on black synthetic leather and lightly rub it on synthetic leather using a sponge. Apply evenly. This is measured using, for example, a variable angle spectroscopic measurement system (GCMS-3, manufactured by Murakami Color Research Laboratory) at an incident light angle of 45 °, a light receiving angle of -45 °, and -20 °. The two interference colors at this time are defined by the CIE1976L ^* a ^* b ^* color system, and when the incident light angle is 45 ° and the light receiving angle is −45 ° (L _45,45 ^* , a _45,45 ^* , b _{45). , 45} ^* ), when the incident light angle is 45 ° and the light receiving angle is -20 °, (L _45,20 ^* , a _45,20 ^* , b _45,20 ^* ) is used, and ΔE is obtained from the above equation using these. be able to. In addition, the black synthetic leather used for such a measurement has ΔE of 7 or less similarly obtained.
[0012]
The powder of component (A) has a ΔE thus determined of 7 to 40, preferably 10 to 35. If it is less than 7, the hue of the skin changes, but the transparency is lost. If it exceeds 40, the hue changes greatly depending on the angle at which the skin is viewed, resulting in a feeling of strangeness.
[0013]
The particle size of the powder of the component (A) is not particularly limited, but those having an average particle size of 12 μm or less, particularly 5 to 12 μm are preferable because the feeling of use is good and the glare can be reduced.
[0014]
Further, the powder of component (A) is preferably a powder obtained by coating a base powder with metal oxide particles. This mother powder is preferably one that emits interference color when coated with metal oxide particles. For example, mica, plate-like titanium oxide, plate-like iron oxide, plate-like alumina, plate-like silica, fish scale foil, oxy Examples thereof include bismuth chloride, and mica is particularly preferable. Examples of the metal oxide include titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, and the like. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and particularly titanium oxide, iron oxide, or these. Is preferred. Moreover, when coat | covering using the mixture of a titanium oxide and an iron oxide, it is preferable that a titanium oxide is a rutile type and does not contain tin. In addition, the method in particular of coat | covering mother powder with metal oxide particle is not restrict | limited, It can carry out according to a normal method.
[0015]
Further, various color tones can be produced by controlling the optical thickness of the metal oxide particles covering the surface of the mother powder. For example, a powder whose interference color is blue to purple gives a transparent feeling to the skin, and a powder whose interference color is green does not become dull, suppresses redness of the skin, The powder showing orange to red can make the skin look healthy and hide the dullness of the skin.
[0016]
Furthermore, it is possible to produce various color tones by using a combination of two or more powders as the component (A). In addition, when using 2 or more types of powders in combination, it is preferable that (DELTA) E of the powder after mixing is 7-40.
[0017]
The powder of the component (A) is preferably hydrophobized on the surface from the viewpoint of light resistance. In some cases, ΔE may be changed by the hydrophobization treatment. However, if ΔE after the treatment is 7 to 40, it can be suitably used.
[0018]
The hydrophobizing treatment is performed using a hydrophobizing agent, and examples of the hydrophobizing agent include silicone oil, fatty acid metal salt, alkyl phosphoric acid, alkali metal salt or amine salt of alkyl phosphoric acid, and N-mono long chain. (C8-C22) aliphatic acyl basic amino acid, fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group, and the like.
[0019]
The silicone oil is not particularly limited as long as it is used for ordinary cosmetics and the like. For example, dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclic methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, Examples include polyether-modified silicone, alkyl-modified silicone, methylpolysiloxane emulsion, higher fatty acid ester-modified silicone, higher alkoxy-modified silicone, and phenol-modified silicone.
[0020]
As the fatty acid metal salt, those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms are particularly preferable, and as such salts, for example, salts of calcium, magnesium, zinc, aluminum and the like can be mentioned, and aluminum salts are particularly preferable. Accordingly, preferable examples of the fatty acid metal salt include aluminum monostearate, aluminum distearate, aluminum monooleate, aluminum monopalmitate, aluminum monolaurate and the like, but are not limited to these examples.
[0021]
Examples of the alkyl phosphoric acid or its alkali metal salt or amine salt include those represented by the following general formula (1) or (2).
[0022]
[Chemical 1]

[0023]
[Wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ³ represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group having ¹ to 45 carbon atoms, X ¹ , X ² and X ³ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal Atom or ammonium is shown. ]
[0024]
In the above general formulas (1) and (2), the hydrocarbon groups represented by R ^{1 to} R ³ are those having 1 to 45 carbon atoms, and those having 8 or more carbon atoms are particularly desirable. When the number of carbon atoms is less than 8, the alkyl phosphate metal salt exhibits tackiness, and the lubricity and spreadability may be lowered. Examples of such hydrocarbon groups include octyl, nonyl, decyl, dodecyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, heneicosyl, docosyl, tricosyl, tetracosyl, pentacosyl, hexacosyl, heptacosyl, octacosyl , Nonacosyl, triacontyl, hentriacontyl, dotriacontyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, undecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, nonadecenyl, eicosenyl, hetecocenyl, tricocenyl, tricocenyl, tricocenyl , Octacosenyl, Nacocenyl, triacontenyl, hentriacontenyl, dotriacontenyl, octadienyl, nonadienyl, decadienyl, dodecadienyl, undecadienyl, tridecadienyl, tetradecadienyl, pentadecadienyl, hexadecadienyl, heptadecadienyl, octadecadienyl Dienyl, Nonadecadienyl, Eicosadienyl, Henecosadienyl, Docosadienyl, Tricosadienyl, Tetracosadienyl, Pentacosadienyl, Hexacosadienyl, Heptacosadienyl, Octacosadienyl, Nonacosadienyl, Triacontadienyl, Hentria Contadienyl, dotriacontadienyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octylundecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-undecylhexadecyl, 2-tetradecyloctadecyl group, etc. And the like. Further, in the above general formula (1) and (2), the alkali metal represented by X ¹ to X ^3, potassium, sodium, and examples of the ammonium represented by X ¹ to X ^3, monoethanolamine And those derived from amines such as diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, morpholine, and arginine.
[0025]
Specific examples of the alkyl phosphoric acid represented by the general formula (1) or (2) or a salt thereof include dicetyl phosphoric acid, monolauryl phosphoric acid, sodium salt of monolauryl phosphoric acid, potassium salt or amine salt, and dicetyl phosphoric acid. Sodium salt, potassium salt, amine salt, etc. are mentioned.
[0026]
Examples of the basic amino acid constituting the N-mono long chain (C8-22 carbon) aliphatic acyl basic amino acid include α, γ-diaminobutyric acid, ornithine, lysine, arginine, histidine and the like. These may be optically active or racemic. Examples of long-chain aliphatic acyl groups include saturated or unsaturated linear or branched aliphatic acyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. May be. Specific examples include 2-ethylhexanoyl, capryloyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, oleoyl, behenoyl, cocoyl, beef tallow fatty acid acyl, and hardened tallow fatty acid acyl. The binding site of the long chain acyl group to the basic amino acid is an amino group at the α-position or an amino group at the ω-position, but in arginine and histidine, it is limited to the amino group at the α-position. Specific examples include Nε-2-ethylhexanoyl lysine, Nε-lauroyl lysine, Nε-cocoyl lysine, Nε-palmitoyl lysine, Nε-isostearoyl lysine, Nε-cured tallow fatty acid acyl lysine, Nα-capryloyl lysine, Nα- Lauroyl lysine, Nα-myristoyl lysine, Nα-oleoyl lysine, Nα-behenoyl lysine, Nδ-cocoyl ornithine, Nδ-stearoyl ornithine, Nδ-tallow fatty acid acylornithine, Nα-ethylhexanoyl ornithine, Nα-lauroyl ornithine, Nα-iso Stearoyl ornithine, Nγ-palmitoyl-α, γ-diaminobutyric acid, Nα-tallow fatty acid acyl-α, γ-diaminobutyric acid, Nα-caproylarginine, Nα-lauroylarginine, Nα-palmitoylarginine, Nα-cured tallow fatty acid acylarginine , Nα-cocoyl histidine, Nα-isostealoy Histidine, and the like, but are not limited to these examples.
[0027]
As the fluorine compound having a perfluoroalkyl group, for example, the following general formula (3)
[0028]
_{(C m F 2m + 1 C} n H 2n O) y PO (OH) 3-y (3)
[In formula, m shows the integer of 4-14, n shows the integer of 1-12, y shows the integer of 1-3. ]
[0029]
Perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid (US Pat. No. 3,632,744), fluoroalkyl di (oxyethyl) amine phosphoric acid ester (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 62-250074), and resin having a perfluoroalkyl group (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 63-25744) 55-167209), tetrafluoroethylene resin, perfluoroalcohol, perfluoroepoxy compound, sulfoamide type fluorophosphoric acid, perfluorosulfate, perfluorocarboxylate, perfluoroalkylsilane (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-218603) Gazette) and the like.
[0030]
The method for hydrophobizing the powder is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include the following methods.
[0031]
The treatment of the powder with silicone oil is, for example, dispersing the powder in one or two or more types of silicone oil dissolved in an appropriate amount of hexane, etc., and treating at 100 to 200 ° C. for 2 to 10 hours after the solvent is distilled off, It can carry out by drying after that.
[0032]
When the powder is treated with alkyl phosphoric acid or a salt thereof, when X ¹ and X ² or X ³ in general formula (1) or (2) is hydrogen, for example, alkyl phosphoric acid is treated with isopropyl alcohol, hexane or the like. It can be carried out by dispersing the powder in a solution dissolved in a solvent, treating at 50 ° C. to 70 ° C. for 1 to 3 hours, and distilling the solvent and drying. In addition, when X ¹ in general formula (1) or (2), or X ² and X ³ are other than hydrogen (in the case of alkali metal or ammonium), for example, an alkali metal salt or amine salt of alkyl phosphate is used. Disperse the powder in a solution dissolved in water, treat at 50 to 70 ° C. for 1 to 3 hours, neutralize with an appropriate acid, filter with heat, wash with an aqueous ethanol solution, and dry. be able to.
[0033]
In addition, as a method of treating the powder with an N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid, either a dry method or a wet method can be used. The dry method is simple and effective, and a fine powder of N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid is stirred and mixed with powder, or N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid and powder are mixed. After mixing, the surface of the powder can be easily treated by co-grinding. In the wet method, N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acids are hardly soluble in neutral water and normal oil, so N-mono long-chain aliphatic acyl basic using calcium chloride as a solubilizer After dissolving an amino acid in an organic solvent, the surface of the powder can be treated by bringing the powder into contact with each other and further washing with water to remove calcium chloride and drying. Alternatively, the N-mono long chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid is dissolved in acidic or alkaline water or an aqueous solvent and brought into contact with the powder. The same surface treatment can be achieved by depositing and attaching a chain aliphatic acyl basic amino acid, removing the salt produced by neutralization by washing with water, and drying (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 61-7202 and 61). -10503).
[0034]
The treatment amount of the hydrophobizing agent relative to the powder is preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, particularly 2 to 10% by weight because sufficient hydrophobicity, good touch and light resistance can be obtained.
[0035]
The component (A) thus obtained is preferably blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 90% by weight, particularly 1 to 80% by weight.
[0036]
The zinc oxide as the component (B) used in the present invention needs to have a specific surface area of 10 to 100 m ² / g, and preferably ^{20 to} 80 m ² / g. If the specific surface area is less than 10 m ² / g, the sebum absorption capacity is not sufficient, and makeup loss tends to occur, and if it exceeds 100 m ² / g, it becomes powdery and the feeling of use deteriorates.
[0037]
The component (B) is also preferably used after being hydrophobized in the same manner as the component (A). However, if the surface treatment is carried out with a fluorine compound, it is not preferred because it will not be compatible with sebum. The component (B) can also be blended after being compounded with other powders such as spherical powders that can improve the feel.
[0038]
Component (B) is preferably blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 99% by weight, particularly 2 to 90% by weight.
[0039]
In addition to the above-mentioned essential components (A) and (B), the skin cosmetic of the present invention is blended in a normal cosmetic if necessary as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Ingredients such as various oils, surfactants, water-soluble polymers, other powders, moisturizers, preservatives, drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, dyes, inorganic salts or organic acid salts, fragrances, chelating agents, pH adjusters, Water etc. can be mix | blended.
[0040]
Examples of the oil include liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax, squalane, beeswax, carnauba wax, olive oil, lanolin, higher alcohol, fatty acid, higher fatty acid, ester oil, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, diglyceride, triglyceride, silicone oil. Oils commonly used in cosmetics such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecalin, perfluorooctane, jojoba oil, octyldodecyl myristate, and neopentyl glycol dioctanoate are used.
[0041]
Examples of the surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; anionic surfactants typified by fatty acid soaps such as sodium stearate and triethanolamine palmitate; and cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants Surfactants that are widely used in cosmetics are used.
[0042]
Examples of water-soluble polymers include carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, tragacanth gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, dextrin, dextrin fatty acid ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, gelatin, sodium alginate, gum arabic, etc. Water-soluble polymers that are widely used in cosmetics are used.
[0043]
Other powders include, for example, talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, muscovite, synthetic mica, phlogopite, mica, biotite, lithia mica, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, magnesium silicate, calcium silicate. , Aluminum silicate, Barium silicate, Strontium silicate, Tungstic metal salt, Hydroxyapatite, Hydrous silicate, Anhydrous silicate, Magnesium oxide, Bentonite, Zeolite, Ceramics powder, Inorganic powder such as aluminum hydroxide; Nylon powder, Polyethylene powder, Poly Organic powders such as methyl benzoguanamine powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, tetrafluoroethylene powder, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, lauroyl lysine; calcium stearate, zinc stearate, sugar Surfactant metal salt powder such as magnesium allate, magnesium myristate, calcium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetyl phosphate; titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxide (Bengara), iron titanate, iron hydroxide, loess, Inorganic colored powders such as black iron oxide, carbon black, mango violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanium, ultramarine and bitumen; titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxychloride, oxidized Pearl pigments such as titanium-coated talc, fish scale foil, and colored titanium oxide-coated mica; powders commonly used in cosmetics such as metal powders such as aluminum powder, stainless powder, and copper powder; and these with silicone or fluorine compounds Sense the powder is used.
[0044]
As the humectant, for example, it is widely used in cosmetics such as sorbitol, xylitol, glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, and polyethylene glycol. A moisturizing agent is used.
[0045]
As the preservative, for example, a preservative widely used in cosmetics such as paraoxybenzoic acid alkyl ester, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and the like is used.
[0046]
As the drug, for example, drugs commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, herbal medicines, anti-inflammatory agents, and bactericides are used.
[0047]
Examples of the UV absorber include UV absorbers commonly used in cosmetics such as paraaminobenzoic UV absorbers, anthranyl UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, and benzophenone UV absorbers. Used.
[0048]
Examples of the dye include Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red 230, Red 401, Red 505, Yellow 4, Yellow 5, Yellow 202, Yellow 203, Yellow 204, Yellow 401, Blue 1, Blue 2, Blue 201, Blue 404 Tar dyes such as Green No. 3, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Green No. 205, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 206, Orange No. 207; Carminic acid, laccaic acid, bradylin, crocin A pigment that is widely used in cosmetics such as natural pigments is used.
[0049]
Examples of inorganic salts or organic acid salts include inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and nitric acid; oxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and malic acid; carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid and sorbic acid; or salicylic acid and benzoic acid An alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt or an aluminum salt of an aromatic carboxylic acid such as Specific examples of preferred inorganic salts or organic acid salts include potassium sulfate, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, aluminum sulfate, potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, aluminum nitrate, calcium nitrate, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride. , Aluminum chloride, potassium carbonate, sodium carbonate, aluminum carbonate, potassium acetate, sodium acetate, calcium acetate, magnesium acetate, sodium formate, potassium formate, magnesium formate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, potassium sorbate, sodium sorbate, salicylic acid Sodium, potassium benzoate, sodium benzoate, etc., especially potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, aluminum chloride Beam, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate and sodium benzoate preferred. These inorganic salts or organic acid salts may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in the form of a salt, but the stoichiometry necessary to form the salt with the corresponding acid substance and base substance at the time of cosmetic production. It may be generated by adding an appropriate amount.
[0050]
Moreover, water can be mix | blended in arbitrary quantity.
[0051]
The skin cosmetic of the present invention can be produced according to a conventional method, for example, basic cosmetics such as lotion, emulsion, cream, etc .; powdered white powder, solid white powder, face powder, powder foundation, oily foundation, creamy foundation, liquid Makeup cosmetics such as foundation, concealer, lipstick, lip balm, blusher, eyeliner, eyeshadow, eyebrow and the like can be used.
[0052]
Here, the preferred blending amount of the component (A) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is as described above, but usually 0.1% by weight or more, particularly 2 to 80% by weight of the total powder to be blended. preferable. Furthermore, in the case of lotion, 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 5% by weight, is preferably added to the total composition. In the case of emulsions and creams, 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 7% by weight, powdered white powder In the case of solid white powder and face powder, 0.1 to 80% by weight, in particular 1 to 50% by weight, in the case of powder foundation and oily foundation, 0.1 to 80% by weight, in particular 1 to 25% by weight, creamy foundation, liquid foundation and 0.1-10% by weight for concealers, especially 0.5-7% by weight, 0.1-20% by weight for lipsticks and lip balms, especially 0.5-10% by weight, 0.1-40% by weight for blushers and eye shadows, In particular, 0.5 to 25% by weight, and in the case of eyeliner and eyebrow, 0.1 to 30% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 20% by weight are preferably blended.
[0053]
【Example】
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated further in detail, this invention is not limited to these. In the following examples, the average particle diameter is a value measured in a wet manner with an SK Laser Micron Sizer (manufactured by Seishin Enterprise).
[0054]
Test example 1
Various pearl powder coated 8 mg / 100 cm ² uniformly on synthetic leather black, which variable angle spectroscopic measuring system (manufactured by Murakami Color Research Laboratory, GCMS-3) was used, incident light angle 45 °, light receiving angle - Colorimetry was performed at 45 ° and -20 °. From this measured value, the color difference between the two interference colors (L _45,45 ^* , a _45,45 ^* , b _45,45 ^* ) and (L _45,20 ^* , a _45,20 ^* , b _45,20 ^* ) (ΔE) was determined from the above equation. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0055]
[Table 1]

[0056]
Example 1 (powder foundation)
Powder foundations having the compositions shown in Table 2 were produced according to the following production methods, and the finish and makeup retention when these foundations were used were evaluated according to the following evaluation methods. The results are also shown in Table 2.
[0057]
(Manufacturing method)
Components (1) to (11) are mixed and pulverized through a pulverizer. This is transferred to a high-speed blender, and components (12) to (14) mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. are added and mixed uniformly. Ingredient (15) is added to the mixture, mixed and then ground again and passed through a sieve. This is compression molded into a metal pan.
[0058]
(Evaluation methods)
The transparent feeling when each powder foundation was applied to the skin, the difference in skin color depending on the angle seen with a mirror, the goodness of blood color, the lack of glare, the covering power, and the longevity after 4 hours were evaluated. The evaluation was performed by 14 expert panelists, with 5 points for “good”, 4 points for “slightly good”, 3 points for “normal”, 2 points for “slightly bad”, and 1 point for “bad”. The average value is shown.
[0059]
[Table 2]

[0060]
As is apparent from Table 2, when the skin cosmetic of the present invention was applied, the transparency was high, there was no change in color depending on the observation direction, and the characteristics of each light color were exhibited. Further, there was no glare, a natural finish, good covering power and long lasting makeup.
[0061]
Example 2 (Cream Foundation)
A creamy foundation having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Stearic acid 5.5
(2) Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate 2.5
(3) cetostearyl alcohol 1.0
(4) Monolauryl propylene glycol 3.0
(5) Squalane 7.0
(6) Olive oil 8.0
(7) Purified water remaining
(8) Preservative appropriate amount
(9) Triethanolamine 1.2
(10) Sorbit 3.0
(11) Titanium oxide 8.0
(12) Talc 5.0
(13) Coloring pigment (black iron oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide)
(14) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 25m ² / g) ^{* 1} 4.0
(15) Hydrophobized blue pearl agent (ΔE = 26.5) ^{* 2} 5.0
(16) A small amount of perfume [0062]
* 1: Sakai Chemical Industry, FINEX-25
* 2: Marlen Flamenco SATIN Blue treated with dimethylpolysiloxane [0063]
(Manufacturing method)
Components (11) to (15) are mixed and pulverized through a pulverizer. Separately, a solution in which the aqueous phase components (7) to (10) are mixed is prepared, and the pulverized pigment is added and dispersed, followed by heating to 75 ° C. The oil phase components (1) to (6) dissolved by heating at 80 ° C. are added to the previously prepared aqueous phase with stirring and emulsified. This is cooled with stirring, and the component (16) is added at 50 ° C. and cooled with stirring to obtain a product.
[0064]
Example 3 (powdered white powder)
Powdered white powder having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Mica remaining amount
(2) Purple pearl agent (ΔE = 27.5) ^{* 1} 8.0
(3) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 75m ² / g) ^{* 2} 5.0
(4) Talc 30.0
(5) Titanium oxide 0.5
(6) Bengala 0.1
(7) Yellow iron oxide 0.1
(8) Black iron oxide 0.01
(9) Magnesium stearate 10.0
(10) Preservative appropriate amount [0065]
* 1: Made by Marl, Flamenco SATIN Violet
* 2: Sakai Chemical Industry, FINEX-75
[0066]
(Manufacturing method)
All ingredients are mixed, pulverized through a pulverizer, and sieved into a product.
[0067]
Example 4 (solid white powder)
A solid white powder having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Mica remaining amount
(2) Mixed hydrophobizing pearl agent (ΔE = 26.0) ^{* 1} 50.0
(3) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 50m ² / g) ^{* 2} 6.0
(4) Talc 20.0
(5) Titanium oxide 0.5
(6) Bengala 0.1
(7) Yellow iron oxide 0.1
(8) Black iron oxide 0.01
(9) Liquid paraffin 8.0
(10) Beeswax 2.0
(11) Preservative appropriate amount
(12) Trace amount of perfume [0068]
* 1: Equal mixture of Flamenco SATIN Violet and Flamenco SATIN Green manufactured by Marl with dimethylpolysiloxane * 2: Sakai Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., FINEX-50
[0069]
(Manufacturing method)
Components (1) to (8) are mixed and pulverized through a pulverizer. This is transferred to a high-speed blender, and components (9) to (11) mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. are added and mixed uniformly. Component (12) is added to the mixture and mixed, then ground again and passed through a sieve. This is compression molded into a metal pan.
[0070]
Example 5 (blusher)
A blusher having the following composition was produced by the following method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Mica remaining amount
(2) Mixed hydrophobized red pearl agent (ΔE = 20.0) ^{* 1} 20.0
(3) Talc 20.0
(4) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 25m ² / g) ^{* 2} 7.0
(5) Titanium oxide 4.0
(6) Zinc stearate 5.0
(7) Rice starch 5.0
(8) Color material 3.0
(9) Liquid paraffin 3.0
(10) Preservative appropriate amount
(11) Perfume, trace amount [0071]
* 1: Equal mixture of Marlen Flamenco SATIN Red and Flamenco SATIN Orange each treated with N-lauroyllysine * 2: Sakai Chemical Industry, FINEX-25
[0072]
(Manufacturing method)
Ingredients (1) to (8) are mixed and developed. Next, components (9) to (11) are added by spraying in a mixer, mixed uniformly, passed through a sieve, and then compressed into a metal pan using a press machine.
[0073]
Example 6 (Eyeshadow)
An eye shadow having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Mica remaining amount
(2) Mixed hydrophobic blue-violet pearl agent (ΔE = 24.3) ^{* 1} 20.0
(3) Talc 5.0
(4) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 75m ² / g) ^{* 2} 7.0
(5) Mica titanium 5.0
(6) Zinc stearate 5.0
(7) Zinc laurate 3.0
(8) Color pigment (black iron oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide) 10.0
(9) Liquid paraffin 7.0
(10) Preservative appropriate amount
(11) Perfume Trace [0074]
* 1: Equal mixture of Marlen Flamenco SATIN Blue and Flamenco SATIN Violet treated with dimethylpolysiloxane, respectively * 2: Sakai Chemical Industry, FINEX-75
[0075]
(Manufacturing method)
The target eye shadow was produced in the same manner as in Example 5.
[0076]
Example 7 (lipstick)
A lipstick having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Remaining titanium oxide
(2) Red 201 No.1.0
(3) Red No. 202 2.0
(4) Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake 1.0
(5) Red No. 223 0.1
(6) Hydrophobized red pearl agent (ΔE = 27.5) ^{* 1} 5.0
(7) Hydrophobized zinc oxide (specific surface area 25m ² / g) ^{* 2} 4.0
(8) Castor oil 46.0
(9) Octild decanol 15.0
(10) Lanolin 5.0
(11) Liquid lanolin 5.0
(12) Beeslow 5.0
(13) Ozokerite 4.0
(14) Candelilla Row 7.0
(15) Carnauba Arrow 1.0
(16) Antioxidant appropriate amount
(17) Preservative appropriate amount
(18) Perfume, trace amount [0077]
* 1: Marlen's Flamenco SATIN Orange treated with dimethylpolysiloxane * 2: Sakai Chemical Industry's FINEX-25 treated with dimethylpolysiloxane
(Manufacturing method)
Ingredients (8) to (15) are heated and melted and mixed uniformly. (1) to (7) are added to this, kneaded with a roll mill and dispersed uniformly, then re-melted and (16) to (18) are added, defoamed, poured into a mold, rapidly cooled and solidified. Remove the solidified material from the mold and fill the container. Next, after adjusting the appearance of the stick, it is passed through a flame to make the surface uniform.
[0079]
Example 8 (Eyeliner)
An eyeliner having the following composition was produced by the following production method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Carnauba Arrow 5.0
(2) Beeswax 1.0
(3) Microcrystalline wax 10.0
(4) White petrolatum 1.0
(5) Organic bentonite 0.5
(6) Light liquid isoparaffin remaining
(7) Hydrophobic blue pearl agent (ΔE = 31.9) ^{* 1} 10.0
(8) Hydrophobized zinc oxide (specific surface area 50m ² / g) ^{* 2} 5.0
(9) Titanium oxide 3.0
(10) Carbon black 2.0
(11) Preservative appropriate amount [0080]
* 1: Marlen Flamenco SATIN Blue treated with N-uraroyl lysine * 2: Osaka Sumitomo Cement ZnO-350 treated with dimethylpolysiloxane
(Manufacturing method)
Add (5) to a portion of component (6), disperse through a colloid mill, and gel. On the other hand, (1) to (4) and (11) are mixed, heated and dissolved, added (7) to (10), cooled and kneaded with a roll mill, and heated again and then bentonite. Add gel and balance (6) and cool with stirring.
[0082]
Example 9 (O / W type cream)
An O / W cream having the following composition was produced by the following method.
(Composition) (wt%)
(1) Beeslow 5.5
(2) Cetanol 4.5
(3) Hydrogenated lanolin 7.0
(4) Squalane 33.0
(5) Fatty acid glycerin 3.5
(6) Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate2.0
(7) Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate 2.0
(8) Mixed hydrophobic blue-purple pearl agent (ΔE = 24.3) ^{* 1} 4.0
(9) Zinc oxide (specific surface area 50m ² / g) ^{* 2} 4.0
(10) Fragrance 0.1
(11) Preservative 0.2
(12) Antioxidant 0.1
(13) Propylene glycol 10.0
(14) Remaining amount of purified water [0083]
* 1: Equal volume mixture of Marlen Flamenco SATIN Blue and Flamenco SATIN Violet treated with methylpolysiloxane * 2: Osaka Sumitomo Cement, ZnO-350
[0084]
(Manufacturing method)
Components (8), (9), (11), (12) and (14) are stirred and mixed and kept at 80 ° C. The other ingredients are mixed and dissolved by heating to 80 ° C. The above aqueous phase is added to the oil phase and pre-emulsified, and the mixture is uniformly emulsified with a homomixer and then cooled to 30 ° C. to obtain a product.
[0085]
The skin cosmetics obtained in Examples 2 to 9 are both highly transparent and have a natural finish, have no change in color depending on the observation direction, can change the hue of the skin, and have good makeup. It was a thing.
[0086]
【The invention's effect】
The skin cosmetic of the present invention has no change in color depending on the observation direction, has a natural finish, can change the hue of the skin while having a transparent feeling, and is applied for a long time without changing the finish over time. The finish just after can be maintained.

Claims (4)

Next ingredients (A) and (B)
(A): a powder coated with particles of a mixture of iron oxide the surface of mica and titanium oxide, said powder coated 8 mg / 100 cm ² uniformly on synthetic leather black, incident light angle this 45 °, when color measurement by the light receiving angle -45 ° and ^{-20 °, CIE1976L * a * b} * 2 one interference colors defined by the color system _{^{(L 45,45 *, a 45,45 *}} , b 45, ₄₅ ^* ) and ( _L45,20 ^* , _a45,20 ^* , _b45,20 ^* ), the following formula: ΔE = [( _L45,45 ^* _−L45,20 ^* ) ² + (a _{45, 45} ^* −a _45,20 ^* ) ² + (b _45,45 ^* −b _45,20 ^* ) ² ] The color difference (ΔE) obtained by ^0.5 is 20.0 to 32.3 , and the average particle size is 5 to 12 μm. A powder
(B): A skin cosmetic comprising zinc oxide having a specific surface area of 10 to 100 m ² / g. (A) component of the powder is, the skin cosmetic of claim 1, wherein in which the surface is hydrophobized. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the zinc oxide as the component (B) has a hydrophobic surface. (A) Ingredients 0.1 ~ 90 weight%, (B) Ingredients 0.1 ~ 99 The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is contained by weight%.