JP3666616B2 - Method for producing high bulk and thick woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

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【表２】

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【表３】

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【発明の効果】
本発明におけるトータルデニールの大きい２種類の繊維群からなるポリエステル混繊糸を用いた厚地織編物へのキャリヤー能を有する有機化合物での処理は、一方のポリエステル繊維群の収縮能を抑制すると共に、自己伸長性を与える作用効果がある。そこで、かかるポリエステル混繊糸布帛にこの処理を行うことにより、従来行っていたポリエステル高配向未延伸糸への、延撚、延伸仮撚、弛緩熱処理等の工程を削減できるだけでなく、ソフトでふくらみのある独特の風合いを有した製品を低コストでかつ効率的に製造することが可能となる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for producing a soft and swelled bulky thick woven fabric having an excellent texture, and more specifically, a method for producing a high bulky thick woven fabric for clothing comprising a blended yarn of self-stretching yarn and shrinking yarn. About.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Polyester fibers are easy to handle, have moderate wear durability, and are advantageous over other synthetic fibers in terms of price, and have a very wide range of uses as clothing fibers. Many products made of these polyester fibers have been given various functions and textures in processes such as spinning, drawing, processing, weight loss, and dyeing. Among them, many products are desired from the consumer side that are soft and swelled, and products that have a new texture not found in conventional natural fibers.
[0003]
As a method for producing a product having such a bulge, there is known a method using false twisted yarn or different shrinkage mixed yarn obtained by mixing raw yarns having different shrinkage rates. False twisted yarn is a crimped yarn with high bulkiness that is obtained by untwisting after heat setting in the false twisted state, but the cost is high due to slow processing speed. It is unsuitable for use in high-grade applications because it has a dull luster due to the deformation of the cross section and lacks aesthetics because it is uniform in the yarn structure and cannot produce a textured characteristic.
[0004]
On the other hand, different shrinkage blended yarns utilize the fact that the shrinkage rate of the fibers changes depending on the spinning and drawing conditions in the polyester fiber manufacturing process. For example, two types of filaments that have been separately drawn and heat set are drawn into a drawing machine. It can be obtained by blending up or after stretching. When this mixed yarn is heat-treated in the form of a fabric after weaving and weaving, a yarn length difference corresponding to the difference in shrinkage is developed, and the fabric is swelled.
[0005]
However, in this method, since the fabric restraining force at the time of contraction is large and a sufficient yarn length difference does not occur, a target texture has not been obtained. Therefore, as a method for obtaining a larger swell and softness, there is a method of blending a high shrinkage yarn and a self-extension yarn that elongates under heating.
[0006]
Regarding the self-elongating yarn, a yarn obtained by spinning and drawing a polyethylene terephthalate polymer is subjected to shrinkage treatment (Japanese Patent Publication No. 41-1205, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-28262, Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-018051), or polyester. An undrawn yarn is subjected to shrink heat treatment and then drawn (Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 46-3372 and Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 63-372), and a polyester semi-drawn yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment (Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 2-293410). The partially oriented undrawn yarn is mixed with other multifilaments and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Hei 6-299430). It takes time and effort for yarn processing, and improvements in both economic and work aspects are desired.
[0007]
Also, when trying to obtain a thick fiber in the above production method, it is necessary to increase the heater temperature during the relaxation heat treatment or lower the processing speed, not only productivity is lowered, but also in terms of cost, Further, there are industrial problems such as uneven heat treatment between single yarns.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and has an excellent texture, soft and swelled high bulky thick fabric knitted fabric that is difficult to manufacture by the conventional method. An object is to economically and efficiently produce a blended yarn of oriented undrawn yarn and drawn yarn.
[0009]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have found that the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is self-stretched by treating it with a solution containing an organic compound having a carrier ability and then subjecting it to a dry heat treatment. As a result of further earnest studies to achieve the above object, a yarn length sufficient for a blended yarn composed of two types of fiber groups having a large total denier, which was difficult with the conventional method when this processing method was used. The present inventors have found that a difference can be imparted and a highly bulky fabric can be obtained economically and efficiently.
[0010]
The polyester in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester. For example, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid is the main carboxylic acid component, and ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or tetramethylene glycol. The main component is linear terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene isophthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or polyethylene 2,6-naphthalate having a main glycol component, and polyethylene terephthalate is particularly preferable.
[0011]
In addition, depending on the use, additives such as dull agents, inorganic particles and various functional fine particles may be used even if functional compounds such as flame retardant, dyeability, and antistatic properties are copolymerized or mixed. May be included.
[0012]
For the polyester fiber yarn A used in the present invention, the above fiber-forming polyester is used, for example, at a spinning take-up speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min. The yarn denier is 50 to 150, the structural integrity parameter is 0.1 to 0.6, and the density is 1.36 g / cm ³ or less. The structural integrity parameter here refers to the elongation when treated for 30 seconds under a load of 80 ° C. and a load of 0.2 g / d. In the case of a round cross section, birefringence (hereinafter referred to as Δn) is substituted. It doesn't matter. In that case, Δn is preferably 30 × 10 ^{−3 to} 60 × 10 ⁻³ . Here, Δn is obtained by measuring the retardation with a polarizing microscope equipped with a Berek compensator and calculating the retardation and fiber diameter.
[0013]
When the yarn denier is less than 50, the production is possible even if the conventional method is adopted, and not only the effect of the present invention cannot be utilized, but also the ratio of the drawn yarn constituting the mixed yarn is increased and the swelling is insufficient. On the other hand, if it is 150 or more, the ratio of the shrink yarn constituting the mixed yarn is reduced, and the dimensional stability of the fabric is deteriorated.
[0014]
When the structural integrity parameter exceeds 0.6, the orientation is insufficient and crystallization is insufficient during the carrier treatment, resulting in large shrinkage and no self-extension. On the other hand, if it is less than 0.1, the surface layer is greatly crystallized during the carrier treatment, and self-stretchability cannot be obtained. Therefore, 0.15-0.4 is preferable, and 0.2-0.3 is more preferable.
[0015]
When the density exceeds 1.36 g / cm ³ , the amount of increase in orientation crystallization in post-processing is small and the self-extension ability is insufficient, so 1.36 g / cm ³ or less is preferable, and more preferably 1.35 g / cm ^3. It is as follows.
[0016]
The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester fiber B used in the present invention is 12 to 60%. Preferably, the yarn denier is 30 to 100, the elongation at break is 25 to 40%, the maximum peak value of dry heat shrinkage stress is 0.2 g / d or more, and the maximum peak temperature is 100 ° C. or more.
[0017]
If the yarn denier is less than 30, the proportion of the polyester fiber yarn A constituting the mixed yarn increases, stress concentration occurs in the polyester fiber yarn B after self-elongation, and it is easy to be deformed when worn and can maintain dimensional stability. It lacks practicality. On the other hand, when the yarn denier exceeds 100, the ratio of the self-stretching yarn constituting the blended yarn is decreased, resulting in insufficient swelling and poor texture.
[0018]
If the cut elongation exceeds 40%, the resulting fabric has poor dimensional stability and low utility. Further, if it is less than 25%, the stretching operability is lowered, which is not preferable, and the cut elongation is preferably 25% or more in consideration of process passability during weaving and weaving.
[0019]
If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 12%, the yarn length difference from the self-stretching yarn is insufficient and the bulkiness effect becomes insufficient, and fibers exceeding 60% are difficult to produce industrially stably. Further, when the maximum peak value of the dry heat shrinkage stress is less than 0.2 g / d, the shrinkage in the fabric having a large restraining force is insufficient, the yarn length difference is insufficient, and the bulkiness is not sufficiently obtained. More preferably, it is 0.3 g / d or more. Further, when the peak temperature of the maximum shrinkage stress is less than 100 ° C., heat setting is performed during the carrier treatment, shrinkage is reduced, the yarn length difference is small, and the bulkiness is lacking. More preferably, it is 150 degrees C or less.
[0020]
The polyester blended yarn in the present invention is composed of the above two types of fiber groups, and the composition ratio of the polyester fiber yarn A and the polyester fiber yarn B constituting the blended yarn is 30:70 to 70:30 in terms of denier, The total denier of the blended yarn is 80 or more and 250 or less.
[0021]
When the constituent ratio of the polyester fiber yarn A is less than 30%, that is, the constituent ratio of the polyester fiber yarn B exceeds 70%, the bulge is insufficient and the texture becomes poor. Further, if the constituent ratio of the fiber yarn A exceeds 70%, that is, if the constituent ratio of the fiber yarn B is less than 30%, stress concentrates on the fiber yarn B that is a shrink yarn, and the passability in the weaving and knitting process deteriorates. In addition, the dimensional stability of the fabric also deteriorates.
[0022]
If the total denier of the blended yarn is less than 80, the conventional technique can sufficiently cope with the effect of the present invention. On the other hand, if it exceeds 250, the versatility for apparel will be poor.
[0023]
The cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber yarn A in the present invention is not particularly limited, but a triangular cross-section is preferable when a silky gloss expression or a dry tactile sensation is expected. On the other hand, the round shape of the polyester fiber yarn B is not particularly limited, but a round cross section is preferable from the viewpoint of strength retention and spinning operability, and a multi-leaf cross section can be used when a coloring effect is expected.
[0024]
The single yarn denier of the polyester fiber yarn A used in the present invention is preferably 0.5 to 3 dpf, and the single yarn denier of the drawn yarn is preferably 2 to 5 dpf.
[0025]
Polyester fiber yarn A having a single yarn denier of less than 0.5 dpf is difficult to produce yarn, and if it exceeds 3 dpf, it feels harder and lacks practicality. Further, if the single yarn denier of the polyester fiber yarn B is less than 2 dpf, the polyester fiber yarn B does not serve as strength maintenance and is likely to undergo dimensional deformation. Conversely, if it exceeds 5 dpf, the softness of the fabric is lacking and there is no practicality, and the number of filaments must be extremely reduced.
[0026]
It is important not to give a heat history exceeding 70 ° C. in the process up to the carrier treatment process described later, such as a gluing process or a drying process in a water jet loom, for example, after knitting and weaving both. The reason is that shrinkage stress is not developed before the carrier treatment.
[0027]
The organic compound having carrier ability with respect to the polyester in the present invention includes benzoic acid derivatives such as benzoic acid and benzoic acid esters, salicylic acid derivatives such as salicylic acid and salicylic acid esters, phenols such as phenol and m-cresol, monochlorobenzene, triphenyl. Halogenated aromatics such as chlorobenzene, ketones such as acetophenone, halogenated phenols, phenylphenols, ethers such as asynol, di- and triphenylmethanes, diphenyl derivatives, naphthalenes such as methylnaphthalene and naphthol, It means any one kind or a mixture of two or more kinds of mainly aromatic organic compound derivatives such as anilines.
[0028]
These organic compounds having carrier ability with respect to polyester may be either water-based or organic solvent-based. Further, in addition to the organic compound having carrier ability with respect to the polyester, various kinds of auxiliary agents such as emulsifiers, scouring agents, dispersants, leveling agents, pH buffering agents, and various dyes may be included in some cases.
[0029]
These treatments can be performed alone or simultaneously with the scouring step, the dyeing step, and the like. The treatment method includes a treatment with a scouring bath and a treatment with a dyeing bath. Moreover, when performing independently, as long as the temperature beyond the glass transition point of polyester is not applied before the processing method of this invention, you may carry out at any time.
[0030]
It is important that these treatments start below the glass transition point of the polyester fiber yarn. That is, when the treatment is started at the glass transition point or higher, the raw yarn shrinks and does not elongate before the shrinkage suppressing function by the treatment liquid works. Therefore, many defects occur in the product itself, the texture becomes hard, and there is no swelling. Therefore, the treatment is started at a temperature not higher than the glass transition point in a solution containing an organic compound having a carrier ability and having a concentration of not less than 0.5 and not more than 20% owf so that the final temperature reaches not less than 70 ° C. and not more than 100 ° C. The shrinkage is suppressed, and spontaneous elongation is caused to develop by treatment at a dry heat of 120 ° C. or higher and 190 ° C. or lower in the subsequent steps.
[0031]
From the workability and cost of the treatment process, it is desirable that the starting temperature is as high as possible below the glass transition point, and the treatment time can be shortened. A higher concentration of the organic compound is also desirable, but if it exceeds 20% owf, problems arise in compatibility with the solution, safety, cost of the processing solution, and the like. Conversely, if it is less than 0.5% owf, the effect of suppressing shrinkage is small, and the extensibility during the subsequent dry heat treatment is lowered. Preferably, it is 4 or more and 15% owf or less.
[0032]
If the final carrier treatment temperature exceeds 100 ° C, a high-pressure treatment kettle is required and the cost is high, and if it is less than 70 ° C, low shrinkage due to crystallization is insufficient and the extensibility during dry heat treatment is lowered.
[0033]
The product stretched by the above method is stable when stretched, and does not cause any problems in the subsequent steps such as scouring, setting, weight loss, dyeing, and processing.
[0034]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described by way of examples.
【Example】
The following examples illustrate the invention.
The measurement method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.
[Boiling water shrinkage (SHW)]
Apply a load corresponding to d (denier) x 1/30 g, mark the length of the original yarn 50.0 cm in advance, wrap it in gauze, immerse it in boiling water for 30 minutes, air-dry and then apply the same load. In addition, the length (L) between the marks was measured and calculated by the following formula.
SHW (%) = 100 × (50−L) / 50
[Maximum peak value and maximum peak temperature of dry heat shrinkage stress]
The initial load of 0.05 g / d was applied, and the change in shrinkage stress when the temperature was increased from room temperature to 300 ° C. at a rate of temperature increase of 20 ° C./min was measured. It was.
〔density〕
It measured at 30 degreeC using the density gradient tube which consists of n-heptane and carbon tetrachloride.
(Examples 1-7, Comparative Examples 1-7)
Polyethylene terephthalate was spun at a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m / min. A highly oriented undrawn yarn having a round or triangular cross section obtained by melt spinning at a spinning speed of 1300 to 3000 m / min. The drawn yarns obtained by spinning and drawing were obtained as Samples I to VIII, Samples i to vi, and IX, respectively (Tables 1 and 2). These yarns are subjected to fluid entanglement using a entanglement nozzle, S twist of 1200 times / m is applied to the obtained mixed yarn and heat-set at 70 ° C., and this is used as warp and weft. A fabric having a plain structure in which two yarns were alternately driven was formed, and the resulting fabric was treated. The processing method is shown below.
[0035]
Tetrocin OEN (Yamakawa Yakuhin Co., Ltd.), an ortho-phenylphenol carrier, has a concentration of 2 g / l (equivalent to a carrier concentration of 10% owf, equivalent to an organic substance concentration of about 6.0% owf). Dispersed and prepared in 250 ml of the prepared emulsion treatment solution (bath ratio 1:50), started at a treatment temperature of 30 ° C. in a mini-color dyeing machine, and stirred at 1 ° C./min. The bath temperature was raised to 80 ° C., stirred for 20 minutes, cooled and taken out. After the treatment, washing and drying were performed to obtain a product. The obtained product was judged for softness, bulge degree and novelty of texture by three dyeing engineers with long experience in texture evaluation of polyester fabrics. The results are shown in Table 3.
[0036]
Each of Examples 1 to 7 had a soft swell that was not found in the past, and was excellent in texture. Among them, Examples 1 to 3, 6, and 7 were very bulky and had an excellent texture. In addition, when the treatment is performed under exactly the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the carrier concentration is 1% owf, and when the treatment is performed under exactly the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the carrier concentration is 18% owf, both are textured. Although it was inferior to the woven fabric obtained in Example 1, it had sufficient bulkiness.
[0037]
In Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 6-9, neither soft bulge nor good texture was found. Moreover, although the comparative example 3 was good in texture, it was easy to change in dimensions and was practically lacking. Comparative Example 4 is good in texture, but lacks versatility because the yarn is too thick. Although the comparative example 5 is excellent in texture, the intended thick fabric is not obtained.
[0038]
Moreover, each highly oriented unstretched yarn and stretched yarn used for the sample were put in the bath at the time of processing, and the elongation and shrinkage were measured by the following methods. Apply a load equivalent to d (denier) x 1/30 g, mark the length of the original yarn 50.0 cm in advance and wrap it in gauze, then put it in a treatment solution with carrier ability together with the fabric sample After the treatment, it was air-dried, and subsequently treated in an oven at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. After the treatment, the same load was applied to measure the length (W) between the marks. Each value was calculated by the following formula.
Elongation rate (%) = 100 × (W−50) / 50
Shrinkage rate (%) = 100 × (50−W) / 50
The results are also shown in Table 3.
[0039]
(Comparative Examples 8 and 9)
A mixed yarn of highly oriented undrawn yarn II and drawn yarn i was used, and the treatment temperature was the same as in Examples 1 to 7 except that the following conditions were satisfied. Thereafter, the yarn was cooled and taken out.
After heating up to 110 ° C., the mixture was stirred at 110 ° C. for 20 minutes (Comparative Example 8).
After heating up to 50 ° C., the mixture was stirred at 50 ° C. for 20 minutes (Comparative Example 9).
[0040]
[Table 1]

[0041]
[Table 2]

[0042]
[Table 3]

[0043]
【The invention's effect】
In the present invention, the treatment with the organic compound having a carrier ability to the thick ground knitted fabric using the polyester mixed yarn composed of two kinds of fiber groups having a large total denier suppresses the shrinkage ability of one polyester fiber group, Has the effect of giving self-extension. Therefore, by performing this treatment on such a polyester blended fiber fabric, not only can the conventional steps such as drawing, drawing false twisting, relaxation heat treatment, etc., be performed on the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, but also soft and bulge. It is possible to efficiently produce a product having a certain unique texture at a low cost.

Claims (7)

 Knitting and weaving using a blended yarn composed of a polyester fiber yarn A having a yarn denier of 50 to 150 and a structural integrity parameter of 0.1 to 0.6 and a polyester fiber yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage of 12 to 60% Next, a method for producing a thick knitted fabric knitted fabric, which is treated in a solution containing an organic compound having a carrier ability under a condition that the final temperature reaches 70 to 100 ° C., followed by a dry heat treatment at 120 to 190 ° C.  The method for producing a thick woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the method is subjected to a carrier treatment step without passing through a step exceeding 70 ° C in the step after blending.  3. The method for producing a thick woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the organic compound having carrier ability is contained in the solution at a concentration of 0.5 to 20% owf. The density of the polyester fiber yarn A is 1.36 g / cm ³ The method for producing a thick woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the yarn is the following highly oriented undrawn yarn.  Polyester fiber yarn B is a drawn yarn having a yarn denier of 30 to 100, a cut elongation of 25 to 40%, a maximum peak value of dry heat shrinkage stress of 0.2 g / d or more and a maximum peak temperature of 100 ° C. or more. The method for producing a thick woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4.  The thick woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyester fiber yarn A and the polyester fiber yarn B constituting the blended yarn have a denier ratio of 30:70 to 70:30. Manufacturing method. The method for producing a thick woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the solution treatment containing an organic compound having a carrier ability is started at a temperature equal to or lower than the glass transition temperature of the polyester fiber yarn A.