JP3661857B2 - Woven fabric with multi-stage ear tissue - Google Patents

Woven fabric with multi-stage ear tissue Download PDF

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Publication number
JP3661857B2
JP3661857B2 JP2001331318A JP2001331318A JP3661857B2 JP 3661857 B2 JP3661857 B2 JP 3661857B2 JP 2001331318 A JP2001331318 A JP 2001331318A JP 2001331318 A JP2001331318 A JP 2001331318A JP 3661857 B2 JP3661857 B2 JP 3661857B2
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Japan
Prior art keywords
tissue
woven fabric
ear
ear tissue
weft
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Expired - Fee Related
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JP2001331318A
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Japanese (ja)
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JP2003138445A (en
Inventor
亮 西島
真一 安川
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、複数の耳組織からなる織物において、通常の加工条件でも耳折れ、耳巻きしない織物を提供するもので特にストレッチ織物に関するのである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
近年、織物の緯糸または経緯にポリウレタン弾性糸を含んだストレッチ織物からなる商品が数多く見られ、組織も平・ツイル・朱子・ドビー柄など厚地から薄地まで幅広く展開されている。これらの組織の中には加工中のストレッチ性発現により、耳部分の折れ・巻きつきが発生し、加工工程の通過性が悪く幅のバラツキ、幅出しすぎなどトラブルの原因となっていた。この問題を解決するために耳組織の幅を大きくしたものや、耳組織を変更したものが見られるが問題を解決できていない。
【0003】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、前記従来の欠点を解決するべく、通常の加工条件でも耳折れ、耳巻きしないストレッチ織物を提供するものである。
【0004】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上記課題を検討すべく鋭意検討した結果、本発明に至った。
すなわち本発明は、
1.表裏の組織点の差が4:1〜7:1の範囲からなる織物であって、耳組織に隣接する内側に前記織物の組織点の差より少ない組織点の第二の耳組織を有する、
2.英式綿番手5から100番手の短繊維または短繊維を50重量%以上含む長短複合型の紡績糸から構成され、インチ間の密度がカバーファクタで経緯それぞれ15〜30の範囲である、
3.織物の緯糸あるいは緯糸と経糸の両方に、ポリウレタン弾性糸を1重量%以上含む、
4.織物の緯糸あるいは緯糸と経糸の両方に、熱水収縮率が10%以上の糸、フィラメントを1重量%以上含む、
5.耳組織及び隣接する耳組織の幅が、それぞれ5〜20mmの範囲からなる、6.耳組織の緯糸が3〜5本引き揃えたコード状になっていること、
ことを特徴とするストレッチ織物から構成される。
【0005】
【発明の実施の形態】
表裏の組織点の差が4:1から7:1の範囲にある織物であって、耳組織に隣接する内側に前記織物の組織点の差より少ない組織点の第二の耳組織を有することを特徴とする織物とは、具体的には、地組織がサテンで耳組織が平である場合に、サテンと平の境界部にベネシャンや2/2など組織の跳び数が、サテンと平織物の間からなるのもので、段階的に組織を変えていくことで、耳折れ・耳巻きを防いだストレッチ織物をさす。また、第2の耳組織及び隣接する耳組織の幅としては、5〜20mmであるが、通常、外側の耳を広く(20mm弱)、内側を狭く(5mm強)される。この耳組織を設けることにより、織物特にストレッチ織物の耳折れ、耳巻きが防止できる。
【0006】
本発明に使用する繊維素材としては、短繊維の素材は、綿・ウール・麻などの天然繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、ポリアミド系繊維などの合成繊維、レーヨン・ポリノシックなどの再生繊維およびこれらの繊維の混合体から選択される素材が使用されるが、特に限定されるものではない。
【0007】
経糸として使用される短繊維の番手は、英式綿番手で5〜100の範囲が好ましい。5番手以下の太番手では衣料とした場合、厚すぎるものとなり好ましくない。100番手以上の細物では、薄地となりすぎ生地強力が低くなり好ましくない。経糸としてフィラメントを用いる場合でも同様である。好ましく繊度として、1100(太番手)〜55(細番手)dtexである。
【0008】
カバーファクターは15以下ではストレッチが出すぎて、スリップも起こりやすく、また30以上ではストレッチ性が出にくく好ましくない。
カバーファクターとは、下記式により算出した。
K=Nw ×Dw 0.5 +NF ×DF 0.5
(ただし、Nw :経糸密度(本/吋)、 Dw :経糸繊度(番手)、 NF:緯糸密度(本/吋)、 DF :緯糸繊度(番手)である。)
【0009】
緯糸はポリウレタン弾性糸を含む紡績糸、交撚糸、合撚糸、またはフィラメントの交撚糸・合撚糸であっても構わない。また、ポリウレタン弾性糸を芯糸として、フィラメントで被覆したカバリング糸であってもよい。この場合ポリウレタン弾性糸が含まれる重量は1重量%以上、好ましくは3〜8重量%である。1重量%以下では、伸縮力がでずストレッチ性が乏しくなり、また逆に10重量%以上ならコスト高となる。
【0010】
緯糸に収縮率の高い糸・フィラメントを使用する場合は、収縮率は、10%以上、好ましくは、15〜25%である。この10%以下では、伸縮性に乏しく、逆に30%以上なら目が詰まりすぎて風合いが硬くなる。収縮率の高い糸・フィラメントは、高収縮のスパン、フィラメントや、ナイロンからなる糸を用いるが、特に限定されるものではない。
【0011】
耳組織の幅は、1組織が5〜20mmの範囲が好ましい。5mm以下では耳巻きを防止できない。20mm以上では生地ロスが大きく好ましくない。これらの耳組織は隣接する組織が2つより多くても構わない。耳組織の構造は平・綾・朱子・ドビーなど特に限定しないが、いわゆる斜子組織で緯糸の引き揃え部が3〜5本のコード状になっていることが好ましい。3本より少ないと耳巻き・折れを抑える効果が少なく、5本より多いと耳部の表裏バランスがくずれて好ましくない。
【0012】
表裏の組織点の差は、4:1より少ない場合は耳巻きなどのトラブルが起きにくいことから、5枚朱子、8枚朱子の4:1〜7:1の範囲とした。
【0013】
実施例
経糸に英式綿番手60番、緯糸に同40番とスパンデックスをコアに有する綿コアヤーン40番を交互に打ち込んだポリウレタンの混率が3%からなる織物で、表裏の組織点が4:1で構成される密度200本×140本/inchからなる カバーファクタが経:25.8緯:22.1の朱子織物を織るにあたり、耳組織を従来の斜子耳の内側に3/2の別組織を幅10mm形成した。(図1〜3参照)この生地を従来の加工条件で加工したところ、耳折れ、耳巻きの発生がなく、工程通過性・幅の安定性に優れた加工布が得られた。
【0014】
比較例1
経糸に英式綿番手60番、緯糸に同40番とスパンデックスをコアに有する綿コアヤーン40番を交互に打ち込んだポリウレタンの混率が3%からなる織物で、表裏の組織点が4:1で構成される密度200本×140本/inchからなる カバーファクタが経:25.8緯:22.1の通常のサテン・ストレッチ織物で、表裏の組織点が4:1で構成される密度200本×140本/inchからなる通常の12mm幅の斜子耳をもつ朱子織物を上記実施例と同様に加工したところ、耳折れ・耳巻きが発生した。
【0015】
比較例2
比較例1記載の斜子耳組織の巾を20mmに広げたもので同様に加工したところ、部分的に改善は見られたが、完全に解消するレベルではなかった。
【0016】
【発明の効果】
本発明は、表裏の組織点の差が大きい組織において、本来の耳組織に隣接する内側に第2の耳組織を形成することで、加工時の耳折れ・耳巻きが発生しない特性を得られるものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】 地組織(5枚朱子)
【図2】 中間耳組織(3/2)
【図3】 耳組織(コード斜子)
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a woven fabric composed of a plurality of ear tissues, and particularly relates to a stretch woven fabric, which provides a woven fabric that does not bend or bend even under normal processing conditions.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In recent years, there are many products made of stretch fabrics that contain polyurethane elastic yarns in the wefts or warps of the fabrics, and the structure has been widely developed from heavy to thin, such as flat, twill, red, and dobby patterns. In these tissues, due to the development of stretch properties during processing, the ear part was folded and wound, causing poor troubles such as unevenness in width and excessive width of the processing process. In order to solve this problem, some ear tissue widths have been increased, and some have changed ear tissue, but the problem has not been solved.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention provides a stretch fabric that does not bend or bend even under normal processing conditions in order to solve the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to examine the above problems, the present invention has been achieved.
That is, the present invention
1. A fabric having a difference between the front and back tissue points in the range of 4: 1 to 7: 1, and having a second ear tissue having a tissue point less than the difference between the tissue points of the fabric on the inner side adjacent to the ear tissue.
2. It is composed of short fibers of English style cotton counts 5 to 100 or long and short composite spun yarns containing 50% by weight or more, and the density between inches ranges from 15 to 30 in terms of cover factor.
3. Contains 1% by weight or more of polyurethane elastic yarn in the weft of the fabric or both the weft and the warp,
4). The weft of the woven fabric or both the weft and the warp contains 1% by weight or more of yarn and filament with a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more.
5. 5. The widths of the ear tissue and the adjacent ear tissue are each in the range of 5 to 20 mm. The weft of the ear tissue is in the form of a cord with 3 to 5 aligned;
It is comprised from the stretch fabric characterized by this.
[0005]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
A fabric having a difference between the tissue points of the front and back surfaces in the range of 4: 1 to 7: 1, and having a second ear tissue having a tissue point less than the difference in tissue points of the fabric on the inner side adjacent to the ear tissue. Specifically, when the ground tissue is satin and the ear tissue is flat, the number of jumps of the tissue such as Venetian or 2/2 at the boundary between the satin and the flat is the satin and plain fabric. This is a stretch fabric that prevents the ears from being folded and wound by changing the structure in stages. In addition, the width of the second ear tissue and the adjacent ear tissue is 5 to 20 mm. Usually, the outer ear is wide (less than 20 mm) and the inner side is narrow (more than 5 mm). By providing this ear tissue, it is possible to prevent the ear fold and the ear winding of the woven fabric, particularly the stretch woven fabric.
[0006]
As the fiber material used in the present invention, short fiber materials include natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers, regenerated fibers such as rayon and polynosic, and the fibers of these fibers. Although the raw material selected from a mixture is used, it does not specifically limit.
[0007]
The count of the short fibers used as the warp is an English cotton count and is preferably in the range of 5 to 100. A thick count of 5th or less is not preferable because it is too thick. A fine article of 100 or more is not preferable because it becomes too thin and the fabric strength becomes low. The same applies when a filament is used as the warp. The fineness is preferably 1100 (thick count) to 55 (thin count) dtex.
[0008]
If the cover factor is 15 or less, too much stretch is likely to occur, and slipping easily occurs.
The cover factor was calculated by the following formula.
K = N w × D w 0.5 + N F × D F 0.5
(However, N w is the warp density (main / 吋), D w is the warp fineness (count), N F is the weft density (main / 吋), and D F is the weft fineness (count).)
[0009]
The weft yarn may be a spun yarn including a polyurethane elastic yarn, a twisted yarn, a twisted yarn, or a filament twisted / twisted yarn. Further, a covering yarn covered with a filament using a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn may be used. In this case, the weight of the polyurethane elastic yarn is 1% by weight or more, preferably 3 to 8% by weight. If it is 1% by weight or less, the stretchability is not obtained and the stretchability is poor.
[0010]
When a yarn / filament having a high shrinkage rate is used as the weft, the shrinkage rate is 10% or more, preferably 15 to 25%. If it is 10% or less, the stretchability is poor, and if it is 30% or more, the eyes are clogged too much and the texture becomes hard. As the yarn / filament having a high shrinkage rate, a high-shrinkage span, filament, or yarn made of nylon is used, but the yarn / filament is not particularly limited.
[0011]
The width of the ear tissue is preferably in the range of 5 to 20 mm for one tissue. Ear winding cannot be prevented at 5 mm or less. If it is 20 mm or more, the cloth loss is large, which is not preferable. These ear tissues may have more than two adjacent tissues. The structure of the ear structure is not particularly limited, such as flat, twill, satin, dobby, etc., but it is preferable that the weft is aligned in a so-called oblique structure with 3 to 5 cords. When the number is less than 3, the effect of suppressing the ear winding / breaking is small, and when the number is more than 5, the balance between the front and back of the ear part is lost, which is not preferable.
[0012]
When the difference between the front and back tissue points is less than 4: 1, troubles such as ear-wrapping are unlikely to occur.
[0013]
Example: A woven fabric consisting of 3% polyurethane mixed with an English cotton count No. 60 for warp, and a cotton core yarn No. 40 having a spandex core as the No. 40 for the weft, with a texture point of 4: 1 When weaving a satin fabric with a density of 200 × 140 / inch consisting of: 25.8 weft: 22.1, weaving the ear tissue on the inside of the traditional angled ear, 3/2 separate tissue 10mm wide Formed. (Refer to FIGS. 1 to 3) When this fabric was processed under the conventional processing conditions, a processed cloth excellent in process passability and width stability was obtained without the occurrence of ear folding or ear winding.
[0014]
Comparative Example 1
This is a woven fabric consisting of 3% polyurethane mixed with an English cotton number 60 for warp and cotton core yarn No. 40 for weft with the same number 40 and spandex at the core. Covered with a density of 200 x 140 pieces / inch Cover factor: 25.8 Weft: 22.1 ordinary satin stretch fabric with 200: 1 x 140 pieces / inch density with front and back tissue points 4: 1 When a satin fabric having a normal 12 mm width diagonal ear was processed in the same manner as in the above example, the ear was folded and the ear was wound.
[0015]
Comparative Example 2
When the oblique ear tissue described in Comparative Example 1 was widened to a width of 20 mm and processed in the same manner, a partial improvement was observed, but it was not completely eliminated.
[0016]
【The invention's effect】
In the present invention, in a tissue having a large difference between the front and back tissue points, the second ear tissue is formed on the inner side adjacent to the original ear tissue, thereby obtaining a characteristic that does not cause ear folding or ear winding during processing. Is.
[Brief description of the drawings]
[Fig.1] Ground organization (5 sheets)
[FIG. 2] Middle ear tissue (3/2)
[Fig. 3] Ear tissue (code oblique)

Claims (6)

表裏の組織点の差が4:1から7:1の範囲にある織物であって、耳組織に隣接する内側に前記織物の組織点の差より少ない組織点の第二の耳組織を有することを特徴とする織物。A fabric having a difference between the tissue points of the front and back sides in the range of 4: 1 to 7: 1 and having a second ear tissue having a tissue point less than the difference in tissue points of the fabric on the inner side adjacent to the ear tissue. A fabric characterized by 英式綿番手5から100番手の短繊維または短繊維を50重量%以上含む長短複合型の紡績糸から構成され、インチ間の密度がカバーファクターで経緯それぞれ15〜30の範囲であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の織物。It is composed of short yarns of English cotton count 5 to 100, or long and short composite spun yarns containing 50% by weight or more of short fibers, and the density between inches ranges from 15 to 30 in terms of cover factor. The woven fabric according to claim 1. 織物の緯糸あるいは緯糸と経糸の両方に、ポリウレタン弾性糸を1重量%以上含むことを特徴とする請求項1乃至2のいずれかに記載の織物。The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the weft of the woven fabric or both the weft and the warp contains 1% by weight or more of polyurethane elastic yarn. 織物の緯糸全てあるいは緯糸の数本間隔に、熱水収縮率が10%以上の糸・フィラメントを打込むことを特徴とする請求項1乃至3のいずれかに記載の織物。The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a yarn / filament having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more is driven into all the wefts of the woven fabric or several intervals between the wefts. 耳組織及び隣接する耳組織の幅が、それぞれ5〜20mmの範囲からなることを特徴とする請求項1乃至4のいずれかに記載の織物。The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the widths of the ear tissue and the adjacent ear tissue are each in the range of 5 to 20 mm. 耳組織の緯糸が3〜5本引き揃えたコード状になっていることを特徴とする請求項1乃至5のいずれかに記載の織物。The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven fabric has a cord shape in which 3 to 5 wefts of the ear tissue are aligned.
JP2001331318A 2001-10-29 2001-10-29 Woven fabric with multi-stage ear tissue Expired - Fee Related JP3661857B2 (en)

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