JP3079725B2 - Thin brushed fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention has a thin brushed appearance and a touch, does not have to be subjected to a mechanical brushing treatment, has high strength, is excellent in drapability, and is light in weight. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric suitable for sports, casual, coats, dresses, blouses, innerwear, etc., having both high color and dark color.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a fabric having a light brushed appearance and a touch, there are (a) a so-called sea-island type and split-fiber type composite yarn which has been brushed after a thinning treatment. (B) In addition, one denier per filament of straight spin type (1
d / f) There is a brushed fabric of ultra-thin thin fabric, but this brushed fabric is soft touch but has low tear strength, strong twisted yarn has small untwisting torque, poor crimping and flat fabric appearance It is a product. (C) Further, there is a different shrinkage mixed fiber, but the mixed fiber is characterized by a difference in yarn length between yarns constituting the fabric, and it is easy to obtain a lightly brushed touch and appearance, but on the other hand, pilling due to the structure There are drawbacks that are likely to occur.

[0003]

As described above, the conventional thin brushed fabric requires a mechanical raising process, so that the thin fabric product has low tear strength, and the strong twisted yarn of the split dissolution type composite fiber has the structure. There was a problem that upper division became difficult, a soft feeling of the thinned yarn was not obtained, and the leveling property was poor. More sweet twist ~
The medium-twisted yarn is soft because it is uniformly thinned, but the fabric has no stiffness and the product is apt to wrinkle. Also, there are various problems as described above even in the case of a straight spinning type or a shrink mixed fiber.

The present invention has been made in view of the various problems of the conventional thin brushed fabric, and has a drape property and a waist, is free from pilling and the like, is excellent in physical properties of the fabric, and has a mechanical brushed property. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven / knitted fabric having a good brushed tone and a good appearance without applying.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The first aspect of the present invention is that a compound having one or more ethylene terephthalate units as a main repeating unit and having a -SO3 M group (M is an alkali metal) is copolymerized. (A) consisting of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or homo-PET, and one part of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with respect to component (A).
~ 13 mol% mixed component (B), component (A)
(B) around 100% by weight of component (A)
The use of at least a part of the composite fiber, which is distributed in an amount of 10 to 60% by weight, as a part of the fabric, weaving and knitting and dissolving and removing at least a part of the component (B), followed by dyeing. A second aspect of the present invention is a thin brushed knitted fabric, wherein the component (B) is arranged around the component (A) of the first invention in an amount of 10 to 60% by weight based on 100% by weight of the component (A). 300 to 4000 composite fibers
Twist / m is twisted to form a twisted yarn, a woven or knitted fabric is manufactured using the twisted yarn, and at least a part of the component (B) is subjected to a dissolution removal treatment, followed by dyeing. The present invention relates to a raised knitted fabric.

The component (A) used in the present invention is a copolymerized polyester type or PET, and the component (B) contains 1 to 13 mol% of a readily soluble copolymerized polyethylene glycol based on the component (A). , And a blend is preferably used. That is, the conjugate fiber of the present invention is a hardly soluble PET yarn [(component (A)] in which the monofilament constituting the core constitutes the core, and an easily soluble PET yarn [(component (B)] constituting the sheath). those forming the core-sheath structure which arranged. component (a) -SO ₃ M
If it exceeds (2.0) mol%, the alkali dissolution rate is high, and it is difficult to control industrially, and the tear strength of the dough decreases. The component (B) is obtained by blending 1 to 13 mol%, preferably 2 to 8 mol% of PEG with respect to the component (A) as described above. If the component (B) exceeds 13 mol%, there is a problem in spinnability, and if it is less than 1 mol%, the solubility is poor.
Thinning is difficult.

The mixing ratio of the component (B) of the conjugate fiber is 10 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 40% by weight, based on the component (A).
If the content is less than 10% by weight, the effect of thinning is small, and if it exceeds 60%, the yarn becomes thin after melting, causing the fabric to be clogged, and the tear strength is further reduced, so that it cannot be used together. Further, the conjugate fiber may be used alone or mixed with other fibers at least so that the conjugate fiber appears on the surface, turbulent flow treatment, twisting, covering, core yarn, blend spinning, and weaving. The composite fiber may be a filament yarn or a spun yarn. The thickness of the conjugate fiber is preferably 30 to 300 denier. Component (A) is 0.4 to 2 denier / filament (d / f) after alkali dissolution, and preferably 0.5 to 1.5 d / f. 0.4 d /
If it is less than f, the waist tends to disappear. The component (B) has a thickness of 0.001 to 0.5 d / f, preferably 0.01 to 0.3 d / f after alkali dissolution, and if it exceeds 0.5 d / f, it is difficult to obtain a soft hand.

The number of twists of the conjugate fiber is 0 to 4000 turns / m (abbreviated to t / m), and the preferred number of twists is 300 to 4000 t / m, and 4000 t / m.
If it exceeds m, thinning is difficult. The object of the present invention can be achieved by using a non-twisted yarn of a conjugate fiber as the weft or the warp, or using a twisted yarn of another fiber as either one. After weaving and knitting on the fabric, alkali 10-50 g / l, (80-10
After dissolving and removing at least a part of the component (B) at (0 ° C.) × (20 to 60 ′), it is dyed.

In the present invention, it is important that the component (B) is partially dissolved and removed without completely removing it.
In this case, the alkali treatment and the dyeing process may be performed by a commonly used jigger, liquid jet dyeing machine or the like, and the type is not limited. The dyeing may be disperse dye dyeing or cationic dye dyeing. Further, after partially dissolving and removing the component (B), a raising treatment may be further performed. After dyeing and printing, a water repellent treatment, various coating treatments, a laminating treatment and the like may be applied. 1 to 4 are cross-sectional views of the composite yarn before the alkali dissolution treatment of the present invention, FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the composite yarn after the component (B) is partially melted, and FIG.
Fig. 2 shows a side view of the single yarn filament.

[0010]

The component (B) is disposed around the component (A) of the present invention (FIGS. 1 and 2), and the surface of the single fiber is formed by partially dissolving the component (B) by alkali treatment. Cracks are generated as if they were squeezed up in the length direction of the yarn (FIG. 6), and a so-called surface fibrillation phenomenon is exhibited. One is bonded to the core and the other is irregularly fibrillated in the longitudinal direction so as to be peeled off from the core, so that the entire surface of the yarn is covered in a fuzzy shape. In the split type (FIGS. 3 and 4), the component (A) is uniformly or non-uniformly divided by the partial dissolution treatment of the component (B), and the yarns are formed with different densities, and some fiber surfaces are fibrillated. I do. Since the core component (A) is slightly reduced by the partial dissolution treatment of the component (B), the strength of the yarn is maintained, the untwisting torque of the twisted yarn is sufficiently exhibited, and the drapability and the waist are imparted. Only when the requirements of the present invention are satisfied. When the component (A) of the conjugate fiber is nylon, even if a lightly brushed touch is obtained, the fabric having the same color and physical properties as well as the drapability and stiffness intended in the present invention cannot be obtained. These problems could be solved by limiting the present invention to PET fibers.

Next, the present invention will be described with reference to embodiments.

Example 1 Component (A) PET 70% by weight Component (B) PET + PEG (10 mol%) 30% of 100 d, 48 filaments conjugate fiber was obtained. The cross section is as shown in FIG. Boiling water shrinkage (SHW) of composite fiber 8% Tensile strength (DT) 4.8 g / d Tensile elongation (DE) 42% Twisting number 2000 t / m, vacuum set at 75 ° C, 45 ', warp and weft Using two S twists and two Z twists alternately, 108 warps / inch,
It was woven in a plain weave of 80 wefts / inch. The greige was boiled to 30 ', washed and washed to make a grain.
About 42% by weight of the component (B) was partially dissolved in OH 20g / L, boiling, 20 ', and the weight of the entire fabric was reduced by 16% by weight. After dehydration and drying, a woven fabric having a length of 135 pieces / inch and a weft of 104 pieces / inch was formed. The texture is slightly brushed with a dry touch,
Waist, firmness, and drapability were obtained. After dyeing with a conventional disperse dye at 130 ° C and 40 'with a liquid jet dyeing machine, dehydration and drying, the finished set at 170 ° C and 30 "to 130 warps / inch, weft 102 / inch. Component (B) was partially dissolved and dropped off by hydrolysis and physical impact force in a hot liquid, resulting in a dough ratio of 17.5% before weight loss.
The weight was reduced by about% by weight, and the touch was made from the cloth before the weight reduction, and a woven fabric having a fabric surface covered with countless fine hair-producing fibers was obtained. The tear strength of the dough was 1080 g, warp 1000 g (measured according to JIS standards), and was pilling class 4 (measured according to JIS standards). The product was rugged, highly resilient, and a wrinkle-resistant fabric was obtained.

[0012]

[Comparative Example 1] Polyester 100d, using 144 filaments, SHW 6%, DT 502 g / d, DE 38%, after the same embossing and weight reduction as in Example 1 with the same twist number and fabric standard as in Example 1. A 320 mesh buffing process was applied and dyed similarly. The resulting fabric is not brushed evenly on the fabric due to the grain, and is soft due to the thin single yarn denier, but has no waist and poor wrinkle recovery power. And the tearing part of the raised part
At 600 g or less, it was extremely low, and was extremely inferior in both feel, quality and physical properties as compared with Example 1.

[0013]

Comparative Example 2 With the same components and component ratios as in Example 1, only the cross-sectional shape was as shown in FIG. After the component (B) is completely removed, a 100d, 36 filaments four-division conjugate fiber is obtained such that the single yarn denier of only the component (A) becomes 0.49.
Twisted to 0 t / m and used for warp. PET100d for the weft,
72 filaments, 2500t / m, S and Z were alternately shot. A twill weave of 2/1 was used, and the same wash processing and weight reduction processing as in Example 1 were performed, and the same dyeing processing was performed. 134 warps / inch,
Finished 86 wefts / inch. The woven fabric was lightly brushed like in Example 1, and the surface was covered with countless fine fluffs, and a soft, drapable and resilient woven fabric was obtained. Looking at the cross section of the warp of this woven fabric, the yarn uniformly divided into four
３3 or undivided yarns were mixed together and the fiber surface was in a fibrillated state.

[0014]

Example 3 The same composite fiber used for the warp in Example 2 was used for the weft without twisting, and the warp was made of PET75d, 72 filaments.
2500 t / m, two S and Z yarns were alternately arranged and woven into a half twill. The same wash processing and weight reduction processing as in Example 1 were performed, and after the intermediate setting, the weft surface was buffed with 400 mesh and dyed. A woven fabric having a dry and dense brushed surface and a cross section of the weft showing a mixture of different denier yarns as in Example 2 was obtained, which was soft, resilient and hard to wrinkle. .

[0015]

[Comparative Example 2] The straight yarn denier of the direct spinning was 0.
When 100d yarn of No. 3 was driven in and processed in the same manner as in Example 3, a woven fabric which was soft but had no waist and was easily wrinkled was obtained.

[0016]

The effects of the present invention are summarized as follows. (A) Since the yarn surface was thinned to about 0.001 to 0.5 d / f per filament, a thin raising effect was obtained without performing a raising treatment. Therefore, a thin, lightweight swage with practical strength
A nap-raised fabric was obtained. (B) Since the core was thicker than the sheath, deep color was obtained in dyeing. (C) Similarly, an ultrafine non-twisted yarn or a strongly twisted yarn also generally has a low untwisting torque and tends to have no waist, but the present invention has a waist due to a thick core and is unlikely to wrinkle.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1

FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of each single fiber of the present invention before melting.

FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view after dissolving a single fiber of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a side view after dissolving a single fiber of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1. A is a core fiber portion made of PET. B is a sheath fiber part arranged around A fiber

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Fields surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D01F 8/14 D06M 11/38

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) in which one or more ethylene terephthalate units are the main repeating units and a compound having a -SO ₃ M group (M is an alkali metal) is copolymerized. Or a component (A) composed of homo PET and a component (B) obtained by mixing 1 to 13 mol% of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with the component (A). Weaving and knitting using a composite fiber comprising B) of 10 to 60% by weight with respect to 100% by weight of component (A) as at least a part of a fabric, and dissolving at least a part of component (B) A thin brushed knitted fabric, which is subjected to a dyeing process after a removal treatment. 2. A method according to claim 1, wherein component (B) is present in an amount of 10 to 60% by weight based on 100% by weight of component (A).
The laid composite fiber was twisted at 300 to 4000 times / m to form a twisted yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric was manufactured using the twisted yarn, and at least a part of the component (B) was subjected to a dissolution removal treatment. After that, a thin brushed knitted fabric is dyed.