JP3012054B2 - Silky fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric using a composite polyester multifilament yarn. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a high-quality silky fabric having a dry, swelling, and deep color tone of silk.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Numerous proposals have been made to bring synthetic fibers closer to the excellent texture of various natural fibers. Among them, as a method for producing a silky fabric having a dry feeling, a swelling feeling, and a deep color shade of silk, using a composite polyester multifilament yarn such as a sheath core type and a side-by-side type, particularly, using a side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn. Is known to be an effective means.

However, a water-soluble sizing agent is used for a composite polyester multifilament yarn, particularly a side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn, at 120 to 130 ° C.
When hot glue is applied by a conventional sizing method of drying with a hot air and a cylinder at 90 to 100 ° C., the drying heat energy is absorbed by the side-by-side composite polyester multifilament yarn, and the shrinkage between the low shrinkage component and the high shrinkage component The difference becomes conspicuous, and the glued yarn is curled. Therefore, a woven fabric using a curled glue yarn as a warp has a poor warp quality, lacks a feeling of swelling even in texture, and a satisfactory woven fabric has not been made.

Therefore, conventionally, even if a water-soluble sizing agent is used for the side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn, the yarn is woven with a so-called low-temperature sizing method in which the yarn is dried with hot air of 100 ° C. or less.
However, in the case of the low-temperature sizing method, the drying efficiency is deteriorated, so that the sizing speed naturally needs to be reduced. For example, in the case of a low-temperature sizing method in which drying is performed with hot air at 95 ° C., the sizing speed needs to be much lower than that of the conventional sizing method, that is, about 1/2, and there is a problem that productivity is extremely poor.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and uses a composite polyester multifilament yarn to increase the productivity of a silky fabric having a dry, swelling, and deep color of silk. It is intended to provide at a low price without any loss.

[0006]

That is, the present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric using a composite polyester multifilament yarn comprising two kinds of polymers, wherein a non-aqueous sizing agent is attached to the composite polyester multifilament yarn.
A method for producing a silky fabric, wherein the yarn is used as a warp.

The composite polyester multifilament yarn used in the present invention is a polyester multifilament in which a low shrinkage component and a high shrinkage component are joined. The side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn is, for example, a fiber formed by laminating polyester polymers having different shrinkage properties in the width direction, which is disclosed in JP-B-63-219628, and has any cross-sectional shape. You may.

In the present invention, when the side-by-side type is used, if the bonding ratio between the low-shrinkage component and the high-shrinkage component is 1: 1, a silky fabric having the dryness, swelling, and deep color of silk is obtained. This is preferable. The non-aqueous sizing agent referred to in the present invention is a so-called dry sizing agent obtained by dissolving a synthetic polymer in an organic solvent, solution polymerization of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid ester and acrylic acid or methacrylic acid in an oil component. It refers to a so-called oil sizing agent, a so-called hot-melt non-aqueous sizing agent of a polymer or a polymer / wax system which is heated and melted. Any non-aqueous paste which does not require drying may be used.

In the weaving step, the warp yarn needs to have sufficient sizing and smoothness, and in terms of weaving efficiency, the non-aqueous sizing agent used in the present invention is a hot water having excellent permeability and smoothness. Melt non-aqueous sizing agents are preferred. Hot melt type non-aqueous glue is
It is preferred that the polymer system be in a lower proportion than the wax system.

[0010] The non-aqueous sizing agent used in the present invention adheres the composite polyester multifilament yarn by contacting it with a roll in a sheet form. When it is applied with one roll, it is difficult to uniformly apply a large amount of sizing agent.
It is preferable to contact two or more rolls as shown in FIG. The amount of the non-aqueous glue used in the present invention is 2 to 7
% Is preferable, and 4 to 6% is more preferable.

There is no limitation on the structure and the basis weight of the woven fabric applied to the present invention. Regarding the weaving conditions, any conditions can be used as long as they are generally applied to the polyester multifilament yarn. In the present invention, a non-aqueous sizing agent that does not require drying is adhered to a composite polyester multifilament yarn, particularly a side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn, and woven. Only heat is applied and no heat is applied.

Therefore, the glued yarn does not appear until the difference in shrinkage between the low-shrinkage component and the high-shrinkage component is woven, so that curling does not occur. Compared to a fabric woven with warps glued by a conventional sizing method, a fabric having the dryness, swelling, and deep color of silk can be obtained. Further, since the present invention attaches a non-aqueous sizing agent to a composite polyester multifilament yarn, particularly a side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn by a roller touch method, it is more compact than a conventional sizing method using a water-soluble sizing agent. Gluing is possible with a simple device. Further, since a drying step is not required, the sizing speed can be greatly improved.

[0013]

Next, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. The evaluation of the woven fabric was performed as follows. (1) Regarding the grade, grade 1 for minors and grade 2 for minors
The sensory evaluation was performed in four grades: grade, conspicuous, grade 3 and markedly conspicuous, grade 4. (2) The texture was evaluated by a sensory evaluation on a three-point scale of ○, which is rich in swelling, very good, △ which is slightly lacking in swelling, and ×, which is paper-like without swelling. (3) The thickness of the fabric was measured based on JIS L1079.

[0014]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having a viscosity of 0.70 (35 ° C., 1% solution of orthochlorophenol) as one component (low shrinkage component, boil shrinkage at 100 ° C. 7.8%) and the other component (High shrinkage component, boil shrinkage at 100 ° C. 24%) as 2,2-bis (4-β-
(Hydroxyethoxyphenyl) propane was copolymerized with 10 mol% and copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having a viscosity of 0.73 was melt-extruded at a ratio of 1: 1 to form a side-by-side type. It is discharged and wound once at a speed of 1500 m / min. Then, in a stretching step, the first roll heated at 85 ° C.
Stretched between rolls, 100% boil shrinkage 23%,
A 75d / 18f side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn was obtained.

The obtained side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn is formed into 1169 sheets,
Using a TW-N type warper (Aramaki warping machine) manufactured by Tsudakoma Kogyo Co., Ltd. having two hot rolls having a diameter of 100 mmφ, the ethylene methacrylic acid copolymer and the α-olefin were used. , 45:55 hot-melt size non-aqueous paste was glued under the conditions shown in Table 1.

[0016]

[Table 1]

Next, this glued yarn is used as a warp, and the side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn is used as it is as a weft, and the warp density is 84 yarns / inch and the weft density is 84 yarns / inch. Using a LW-43 type water jet loom manufactured by Co., Ltd., weaving was performed at a loom rotation speed of 500 rpm for 100 times. Next, the woven fabric is refined at 80 ° C. in the same manner as a normal polyester fabric, then subjected to an alkali weight reduction process at 95 ° C., reduced by 10%, and reduced to 130% using a jet dyeing machine.
Dyeing was performed at 30 ° C. for 30 minutes, and heat treatment was performed at 170 ° C. for 1 minute to finish the warp density at 113 yarns / inch and the weft density at 109 yarns / inch.

[0018]

Comparative Example 1 The side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn obtained in Example 1 was used by Kawamoto Seiki Co., Ltd.
8.5% of a commercially available water-soluble acrylic paste (trade name: Marposol W-E2, manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) was applied at a speed of 90 m / min using an EX-3 type sizing machine manufactured by Toshiba Corporation. Temperature 120 ° C, Drying cylinder temperature 95 ° C
And then wound and wound, so-called conventional sizing method.

Next, this gluing was applied to the warp, and the side by side composite polyester multifilament yarn described above was used for the weft, and woven under the same standard and the same conditions as in Example 1. Next, dyeing and finishing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 1.

[0020]

Comparative Example 2 The side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn obtained in Example 1 was used by Kawamoto Seiki Co., Ltd.
Using an EX-3 type sizing machine, 8.3% of a commercially available water-soluble acrylic paste (Marposol W-E2) was adhered at a speed of 65 m / min, and a drying chamber temperature of 95 ° C.
The paste was dried at a drying cylinder temperature of 90 ° C. and wound up, so-called low-temperature sizing method.

Next, this glued yarn was used as a warp and the above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn was used as a weft, and woven under the same standard and conditions as in Example 1. Next, dyeing and finishing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the results of the determination of the fabric quality and texture of Example 1, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2.

[0022]

[Table 2]

As shown in Table 2, in the first embodiment,
Good results were obtained in both grade and texture. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, warp due to the warp curl occurred, and the warp quality of the fabric was extremely poor. In addition, the fabric texture lacked the dryness and swelling of silk, and a satisfactory fabric could not be obtained. In addition, in the case of the low-temperature sizing method of Comparative Example 2, the sizing speed was 65 m / min, which was inferior in productivity, and satisfactory results could not be obtained in both quality and texture.

[0024]

According to the present invention, a high-quality silky fabric having a silky texture (dry feeling, swelling feeling) and a deep color tone can be produced at low cost.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing one example of a warp preparation method for a side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

Reference Signs List 1 sheet side-by-side type composite polyester multifilament yarn 2 first sizing roll 3 second sizing roll 4 guide roll 5 winding beam

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A method for producing a woven fabric using a composite polyester multifilament yarn comprising two types of polymers, wherein a non-aqueous sizing agent is attached to the composite polyester multifilament yarn, and the yarn is used as a warp. Method for producing silky fabrics.