JP2999326B2 - Processing method of highly elastic woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for treating a highly stretchable woven or knitted fabric, and more particularly to a method for treating a woven or knitted fabric excellent in resilience, drape and the like.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, stretchable woven or knitted fabrics exhibiting high stretch elasticity have mainly used polyurethane elastic yarns as stretchable yarns in order to obtain high stretch elasticity. Polyamide fibers are mainly used as fibers mixed with the polyurethane elastic yarn. However,
Polyamide fibers have rigid physical properties, cannot be softened by alkali weight loss like polyester fibers, and are not satisfactory. Further, the mixed woven or knitted fabric has problems in physical properties such as light resistance and chlorine resistance, and cannot be said to sufficiently satisfy the current required characteristics.

On the other hand, mixing polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester fiber has a more difficult problem. That is, since polyester fibers are usually dyed at a high temperature of 130 ° C., there is a problem that polyurethane is hydrolyzed at such a high temperature. Further, woven or knitted fabrics using polyester fibers are usually subjected to alkali treatment, but polyurethane is hydrolyzed, and there is a problem that strength is reduced and the fabric cannot be put to practical use.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems, and is not only excellent in elasticity but also has excellent resilience and drapability by alkali treatment. The purpose is to provide a knitted fabric.

[0005]

The weight loss rate after a treatment at 95 ° C. for 60 minutes in a 35 g / 1 aqueous sodium hydroxide solution is 3%.
% By weight of a polyether / polyester block copolymer elastic fiber having an alkali weight loss rate of not more than 10%, and a polyester fiber mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate having a weight reduction rate of 10 to 40% under the same conditions, This is a method for treating a highly elastic woven or knitted fabric, which comprises performing an alkali treatment at an alkali reduction rate of 10 to 40%.

The polyester portion constituting the hard segment of the polyether / polyester block copolymer used in the present invention is mainly made of polybutylene terephthalate comprising a terephthalic acid component and a butylene glycol component. However, the polyester may be replaced with a dicarboxylic acid component or an oxycarboxylic acid component other than the acid component, or a polyester in which a part other than the glycol component, usually 30 mol% or less, is replaced with a dioxy component other than the butylene glycol component. The polyether portion constituting the soft segment is mainly made of polyoxybutylene glycol.
% Or less may be substituted with a dioxy component other than the butylene glycol component. If the average molecular weight of the polyether portion is too small, it is difficult to obtain sufficient elastic properties, while if it is too large, the compatibility with the hard segment becomes worse.
Is preferable, and the range of 500 to 3000 is particularly preferable. On the other hand, if the ratio of the polyether portion to the polyester portion is too small, it is difficult to obtain sufficient elastic properties, while if it is too large, the melting point decreases greatly and it becomes difficult to obtain sufficient thermal properties. 25-2.
A range of 5 times is preferred. A method for producing such a polyether polyester block copolymer is disclosed in JP-A-58-91.
The method can be performed according to the method proposed in Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 819.

[0007] The polyether / polyester block copolymer preferably contains an ultraviolet absorber or an antioxidant as required.

[0008] In general, a high elasticity woven or knitted fabric generally contains about 5 to 20% of elastic fibers from the viewpoint of physical properties and dyeing properties. Usually, alkali weight reduction processing is performed to improve the feeling of the fabric, but when the alkali weight reduction rate of the elastic fiber is the same as other mixed fibers, the content ratio of the elastic fiber is reduced, so that the characteristic of high elasticity is obtained. It is significantly reduced. Therefore, as a result of various investigations, we found that the rate of alkali weight loss of the polyether / polyester block copolymer elastic fiber having the above-mentioned specific structure was the same as that of ordinary polyester fiber under a condition of alkali weight loss (35 g / 1 aqueous solution of caustic soda). 95 ° C
(Treatment for 60 minutes) and found that the weight loss rate was 3% or less, which was extremely slow, and led to the present invention.

In general, it is considered that the weight reduction rate during alkali treatment is preferably 10 to 40% in order to impart a soft feeling with excellent drapability to a polyester fabric. When a polyester fiber having a weight reduction ratio of less than 10% is used, a desired feeling cannot be obtained unless the alkali treatment conditions are strengthened. However, under these conditions, the elastic fiber has a remarkable decrease in strength and cannot be used. On the other hand, when a polyester fiber having a weight reduction rate of more than 40% is used, the rate of hydrolysis of the polyester fiber is too high, so that it is difficult to control the weight loss rate and the strength of the polyester fiber is greatly reduced. A preferable weight reduction rate by alkali treatment is 20.
%.

As the polyester fibers to be mixed, various modified polyester fibers can be used in addition to the regular polyester fibers. You may combine with the different shrinkage mixed fiber which combined the fiber which has a different heat-shrink characteristic, or the spontaneous elongation fiber which has the property which elongates above a certain temperature.
Further, fibers having different cross-sectional structures may be combined.

The method of mixing with the elastic fiber may be a method of covering the elastic fiber with a polyester fiber (covering yarn) or a method of weaving and knitting with the polyester fiber using bare yarn. To cover the elastic fiber, a method of covering with a twisted yarn using a hollow spindle, a method of covering by air mixing, a method of ply-twisting a drawn yarn and covering by an elongation difference, a method of core span using a spinning machine and so on.

These coated yarns are used alone or together with polyester fibers to form a woven or knitted fabric. What is used for bare yarn is often knitted, but can also be used for fibers.

The single fiber fineness ratio of the elastic fiber and the polyester fiber is preferably used in combination in the range of 1: 1/10 to 1: 1/400. The single fiber fineness of the elastic fiber is usually 20 to 80 denier in many cases. When the single fiber fineness of the polyester fiber exceeds 1/10 of the elastic fiber, the fiber becomes too rigid, and the hand does not improve even if the alkali weight is reduced. On the other hand, when the monofilament fineness of the polyester fiber is less than 1/400 of the elastic fiber, the polyester fiber becomes extremely fine, the rate of alkali weight loss is too fast, it is difficult to control the weight loss rate, and the fiber strength is greatly reduced. It is preferable to use one having a ratio of about 1/50.

The method for reducing the alkali is not particularly limited. Examples of the suspension kneading method include a batch method, a semi-continuous method such as a pad batch, and a continuous method using pad steam. Caustic soda used for the alkali treatment is usually 30 to 100 g / 1 at 95 ° C. and 30 to 60 g in the case of the hanging kneading method.
Processed for minutes. In the case of pad dry or pad steam, it is treated with a concentrated solution of 10% to 30%, and is usually used in combination with a processing accelerator such as a penetrant or a quaternary ammonium salt at 100 ° C.
To 180 ° C. for about 3 to 15 minutes. In the case of a cold batch, the treatment is generally carried out at room temperature for one day and night.

[0015]

According to the present invention, a conventional combination of an alkali weight loss rate that does not cause a decrease in the strength of both the elastic fiber and the polyester fiber, and the optimum condition of the single fiber fineness ratio between the elastic fiber and the polyester fiber are selected. It cannot be obtained from a woven or knitted fabric in which polyurethane fibers and nylon fibers are mixed or a woven or knitted fabric in which polyurethane fibers and polyester fibers are mixed.However, a woven or knitted fabric having high elasticity and excellent feeling can be produced. .

An embodiment will be described below. Parts are parts by weight.

[0017]

Example 1 167.3 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 105 parts of tetramethylene glycol, average molecular weight of 2,000
275 parts of polytetramethylene glycol and 0.2 parts of tetrabutyl titanate were charged into a reactor, and the internal temperature was 190 ° C.
Was used to carry out a transesterification reaction. When about 70% of the theoretical amount of methanol was distilled off, the internal temperature was raised to 200 to 240 ° C., and the reaction was carried out under a weak vacuum for 200 minutes. After pelletizing the generated polyetherester block copolymer,
After drying, the pellets were melted at 265 ° C., and the polymer was extruded at a discharge rate of 3.9 g / min from a cap having a three-hole nozzle. This polymer was wound at a speed of 1500 rpm through two godet rolls to obtain a 40/1 monofilament elastic yarn.

A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 140 yarns / inch and a weft density of 100 yarns / inch was woven using the elastic yarn as a core yarn and a false twisted yarn of ordinary polyester 75 de / 36 fil as a sheath yarn. The weight ratio is 20% for the elastic yarn and 80% for the ordinary polyester yarn. The fabric was scoured, relaxed (90 ° C., 30 seconds), dried (pin tenter), preset (180 ° C., 30 seconds), and reduced in alkali (caustic soda 30 g / 195 ° C. × 60 minutes). Staining (13
0 ° C x 45 minutes), drying, final set (160
(° C, 30 seconds). Table 1 shows the feeling of the obtained woven fabric and the physical properties of the elastic yarn.

[0019]

Comparative Example 1 An elastic yarn 40 produced in the same manner as in Example 1.
De / 1fil and cationic dyeable polyester fiber 75de / 36fil were used as mixed fibers. That is, 100 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 60 parts of ethylene glycol, 0.03 part of manganese acetate water salt, and 3.5-dicarbomethoxybenzenesulfonic acid tetra-n-phosphonium salt in an amount of 1.7 mol% based on dimethyl terephthalate. And 0.0
5 mol% of tetra n-butylphosphonium bromide was charged and transesterified. The obtained polymer was melt-spun to obtain a 75 de / 36 fil fiber. A plain woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, and alkali treatment and dyeing were performed in the same manner. The texture of the obtained fabric is too soft,
In addition, the yarn strength was significantly reduced, and was not practical.

[0020]

Comparative Examples 2 to 4 Comparative Example 2 in which elastic fibers 40 de / 1 fil produced in the same manner as in Example 1 and polyester fibers of 150 de / 30 fil were used as mixed fibers, and the mixed fibers were ultrafine denier polyester of 8 de / 100 fil. The case where the fiber was used was Comparative Example 3. The elastic yarn is made of urethane fiber 40
Comparative Example 4 was a case where a polyester fiber of 75 de / 36 fil was used for the mixed fiber of / 1 fil and the mixed fiber. A plain woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, and alkali treatment and dyeing were performed in the same manner. Table 1 shows the feeling of the obtained woven fabric and the physical properties of the elastic yarn.

In the case of Comparative Example 3, the hand was soft, but the yarn strength was too weak to be suitable for practical use. Comparative Example 4
The urethane fiber was deteriorated, and no elasticity was observed.

[0022]

[Table 1]

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued on the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06M 5/00-11/84

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. 95 g of sodium hydroxide solution in 35 g / 1 caustic soda solution
A polyether / polyester block copolymer elastic fiber having an alkali weight loss rate of 3% or less after treatment at 60 ° C for 60 minutes, and a weight loss rate of 10 to 40 under the same conditions.
% Of a polyester fiber containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and an alkali weight reduction rate of 10 to 4
A method for treating a highly elastic woven or knitted fabric, which comprises performing an alkali treatment at 0%. 2. The method for treating a highly stretchable woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the single fiber fineness ratio between the elastic fiber and the polyester fiber is in the range of 1: 1/10 to 1: 1/400.