JP2983034B2 - Clothing using strings derived from silk non-woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to clothing using a nonwoven silk string.

[Prior art] Conventionally, silk used for clothing is one of the fibers of clothing materials.
Although it is the most beautiful and elegant, it is not possible to make clothing with a volume larger than the cross-sectional shape, and when using a large amount of silk, the price becomes considerably expensive.

If a silk nonwoven fabric is used, the density is lower than that of a conventional knitted fabric using a silk thread, and a voluminous garment with a large volume can be produced at low cost.

However, when trying to manufacture silk non-woven fabric, silk does not have the shrinking effect of wool, so simply entangled fibers mechanically weakens the entanglement of the fibers, causing the fibers to fall off and deforming the non-woven fabric. There is a problem that it is easy.

For this reason, the following first to third methods have been considered as methods for producing a silk nonwoven fabric.

The first method is a method for producing a nonwoven fabric using a silk fibroin solution as a binder, as disclosed in JP-A-1-118652.

The second method is that when fabricating a nonwoven fabric by a wet method using silk as a main fiber, the silk is cut into 2 to 10 mm because the entanglement is weak by itself, and pipes, Manila hemp, mitsumata are used as binder fibers to further increase the entanglement. This is a method of producing a nonwoven fabric by a wet method in combination with a cellulose fiber such as a polyolefin fiber, a modified polyester fiber, and a hot melt fiber such as a PVA fiber.

The third method is to cut silk to 30 to 100 mm, form a web with a hot-melt binder fiber such as polyolefin fiber, modified polyester fiber or the like using a mixing card machine, and then heat-treat to produce a nonwoven fabric by a dry method. Is the way.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, in the first method, it is necessary to prepare a silk fibroin solution, which is very troublesome, and there is a problem that the final nonwoven fabric is expensive. In addition, it can be judged that production of a roll-shaped and long one is considerably difficult.

On the other hand, when the silk nonwoven fabric produced by the second or third method is used for clothing, in the case of a product using a polyolefin fiber binder, the polyolefin fiber cannot be dyed at the time of dyeing, and a white residue is generated. In addition, in a silk nonwoven fabric using a hot-melt binder as a binder, when heat is applied to the binder at a temperature higher than the melting point by ironing or the like during heat setting or heat drying after washing, the binder is re-dissolved. Therefore, the silk non-woven fabric using the hot-melt binder has a problem that the fiber is hardened, the texture is different, and the product loses its shape. In the case of a non-woven fabric using cellulose fibers as binder fibers, the silk part can be dyed with an acid dye, and then the cellulose part can be dyed with a reactive dye, so that white residue of the fiber can be prevented. However, when providing sufficient mechanical strength, the amount of cellulose fiber used is
Since 20 to 50% is required, which causes problems such as greatly impairing the inherent properties, luster, and texture of silk, silk nonwoven fabrics made by the conventional technology have hardly been used for clothing.

As described above, the clothing made of the silk nonwoven fabric made by the conventional technique has a problem of dyeability and a problem of heat resistance.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a garment using a silk non-woven string manufactured from a silk non-woven fabric having good dyeability and heat resistance, and having the original properties, gloss, and texture of silk.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to solve the above-mentioned object, the present invention comprises a silk cut as a main fiber, a silk binder cut and beaten and fibrillated, and further comprising a wet strength enhancer. The main object is to use a string formed by slitting a silk nonwoven fabric containing

[Action] The clothing of the present invention can be used for the production because the silk non-woven string is also made of silk and the binder is silk. Due to the combined use, one-bath dyeing can eliminate any white residue and prevent the strength from decreasing.

Furthermore, even if the amount of silk used is small, the density becomes low, so that a voluminous clothing can be obtained.

[Embodiment] A spring / summer sweater according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described below.

The sweater according to the present embodiment is prepared by mixing a silk binder 30% of freeness of 30% (this is abbreviated as SR30) with 30% (Table 1, Example 1) and silk at various ratios, and wet paper strength. A silk nonwoven fabric is used in which a polyamidoamine epichlorohydrin-based resin is added as an enhancer in an amount of 1% of the total amount of silk and a silk binder, and then made by a round paper machine.

This silk non-woven fabric is slit into a width of 1 to 10 mm by a microslitter, twisted with a polyester filament, dyed, and then knitted with a flat knitting machine to form a sweater.

The sweater of this example has a sufficient residual strength with a 20% reduction in the breaking length at the time of silk dyeing, has no trouble at the time of fabric knitting, and has a silky luster without leaving white after dyeing.

In addition, the sweater of the present embodiment has good heat resistance and is very bulky, makes use of the properties, luster and texture of silk, and can be manufactured at low cost.

In the following, silk binder SR30 ゜ and silk were mixed in various ratios, and a polyamidoamine epichlorohydrin-based resin was added as a wet paper strength enhancer in an amount of 1% of the total amount of silk and silk binder, followed by papermaking with a round paper machine. Shows the properties of silk non-woven fabric. In addition, the ratio of silk binder and silk cut product is 10% and 50%.
% Is shown in Table 1 as a second embodiment and a third embodiment when manufactured in the same manner as the first embodiment.

In addition, when using more than 50% silk binder, the breaking length,
Both of the specific tears are strong and have sufficient mechanical strength as a silk non-woven string, but the luster unique to silk is lost. When the silk binder is used in less than 10%, both the breaking length and the specific tear are low, and there are many fluffs and falling off, and the mechanical strength such as paper breakage at the time of micro slitting is weak.

When a nonwoven fabric was prepared with a silk binder of 30% (Table 1, Example 1) and silk dyed, the breaking length was reduced by only 20%, there was sufficient residual strength, and there was no trouble in fabricating the knitted fabric. After dyeing, there was no white residue and a luster unique to silk was obtained.

As a result, the silk binder is preferably 10 to 50% from the viewpoint of mechanical strength, taking advantage of the texture and luster of silk.
~ 40% is desirable.

The nonwoven fabric as the raw material of the string of the first embodiment is manufactured as follows.

After cutting the silk tow to 1mm with a guillotine cutter,
Perform a FI mill 5000 times to produce a silk binder that has a beating degree of SR30 ゜.

Silk tow cut to 5 mm with a guillotine cutter 7
0% and 30% of the silk binder are mixed with a beater or pulper.

Further, a wet strength agent is added to withstand the requisite scouring, bleaching and dyeing when the silk nonwoven fabric is embodied for clothing.

In addition, a beater, a beater, a refiner, etc. other than a PFI mill are also possible. The cut length is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 mm.
If it is less than 5 mm, the binder effect is low and the strength of the silk nonwoven fabric is weak because it is short. Further, when the thickness is 3.0 mm or more, the fibers are entangled and bound when beaten.

Next, 70% of a silk tow cut to 5 mm with a guillotine cutter and 30% of the silk binder are mixed with a beater or pulper. When the cut length is 2 mm or less, the strength of the silk nonwoven fabric is low, and when the cut length is 10 mm or more, a bundle is formed due to poor dispersion, and the cut length is desirably in the range of 2 to 10 mm.

At this time, if the ratio of the silk binder to the silk cut product is less than 10%, the mechanical strength is low, and if it exceeds 50%, the luster of the silk is lost.
50% is preferred, and 20-40% is desirable.

Further, a wet strength agent is added to withstand the requisite scouring, bleaching and dyeing when the silk nonwoven fabric is embodied for clothing.

Here, in the case of silk dyeing, in a general prescription, the material to be dyed is put into an aqueous solution (about pH 5) containing an acid and its ammonium salt, and the aqueous solution is circulated at 30 to 40 ° C. for 10 to 20 minutes.
Then add the fully dissolved dye and slowly over 30-60 minutes
The temperature is raised to 80-90 ° C. and dyeing is carried out at that temperature for 30-60 minutes.

Incidentally, an acid dye is used as the dye. As the acid used in combination with the acid dye, acetic acid and its ammonium salt, or sulfuric acid and its sodium sulfate are commonly used.

During dyeing, acid is added according to the state of exhaustion, complete exhaustion is carried out, and after dyeing, it is treated directly with a fixing agent for dyes to improve wet fastness. It is important to select an acid-resistant wet strength agent that does not cause significant strength deterioration or deformation during dyeing.

Polyamide amine epichlorohydrin resins, polyamine epichlorohydrin resins, polyacrylamide derivatives, melamine, urea, formamide condensates, and combinations of these with anionic polymers are used in general papermaking as wet paper strength enhancers.

Among the wet paper strength enhancers added during papermaking, polyamideamine epichlorohydrin-based resins and polyamine epichlorohydrin-based resins are particularly suitable as those resistant to acids.

Examples of the anionic polymer used in combination include anionic polyacrylamide, carboxymethyl cellulose, and carboxymethyl starch.

In addition, when selecting the wet paper strength enhancer, the amount of addition is also important, and it is preferable to add it several times as much as usual papermaking.

Wet paper machines such as circular nets, short nets, long nets, and suction homers can be used as the silk non-woven fabric manufacturing equipment, but when the silk non-woven fabric is slit into a silk non-woven string, the fibers are oriented vertically. Is most suitable.

Further, as a fourth embodiment, a sweater or the like can be manufactured using the silk nonwoven fabric manufactured as follows.

Using a blend of the first embodiment of Table 1 above, a polyamine epichlorohydrin resin as a wet strength enhancer, and an aqueous solution of an anionic polymer in combination, the paper is made with a round paper machine.
The characteristics are shown in Table 2.

The silk binder is a silk tow cut to 1 mm3
The kg was put into a small beater together with 200 of water, beaten into SR30 ゜ and used to make paper with a round paper machine.

 Next, fifth to eighth embodiments of the present invention will be described.

The silk nonwoven fabric strings of the fifth to eighth embodiments are used as clothing materials by being plied with other types of fiber yarns in addition to being laid with silk nonwoven strings or silk yarn.

As the other kind of fiber yarn, various combinations such as cotton, rayon, hemp, wool or other animal hair, nylon, polyester, acrylic, lame yarn, blended yarn thereof, or ply twisted yarn thereof can be used.

Regarding the selection of other types of fiber yarns, it is desirable to select a yarn that does not require an alkaline treatment in the refining and dyeing processing steps after it has been formed into a ply-twisted yarn since silk tends to undergo a gloss change and a dimensional change due to the alkaline treatment.

In addition to silk, nylon, acrylic, wool and other animal hair are dyed in the acidic range. It is also a preferable method to dye other kinds of fiber yarns requiring alkali treatment before twisting.

 The following are examples of plied yarns.

A simple ply-twisted yarn such as a ply-twisted yarn in which a silk non-woven string and another type of fiber yarn are aligned and twisted with the same length (fifth embodiment).

A circular twist yarn in which a silk non-woven string is twisted around a core yarn obtained by straightening other kinds of fiber yarns, and the appearance is mainly constituted by the silk non-woven string (sixth embodiment).

Twisted design yarn obtained by twisting a design yarn such as knot yarn into a silk non-woven string (seventh embodiment).

A non-twisted silk non-woven string or a twisted yarn obtained by twisting an additional yarn in one twisting direction to a straightened yarn of a silk non-woven string and a silk yarn or another kind of fiber yarn, a cross-twisted yarn twisted in both left and right directions (Eighth embodiment). In addition, a thin thread is usually used as the auxiliary thread.

In particular, those whose appearance is mainly composed of a silk non-woven string or a silk non-woven string and silk yarn express well the luster and beauty unique to silk.

Twisted yarn or ply-twisted yarn using a silk non-woven string can be knitted by various knitting machines such as circular knitting, weft knitting, and vertical knitting. In this case, unlike hand knitting, adjustment using known devices, methods, and materials such as a thread thickness, a thread tension, a gauge, and a lubricant such as wax is performed according to the design of the knitted article.

The ply-twisted yarn described in the eighth embodiment was dyed by a skein dyeing method, and a women's sweater was knitted by a flat knitting machine.

This sweater was significantly thicker and had both warmth and luster of silk compared to the same design sweater of the same weight in which the silk non-woven string was replaced with silk thread. For this reason, the silk thread replacement is suitable for wearing in the middle spring to early summer, whereas the sweater of this example was suitable for wearing during the season from early spring to early summer.

[Effects of the Invention] As described in detail above, the garment of the present invention has good dyeability and heat resistance, has the inherent properties, luster, and texture of silk, and has a low density even with a small amount of silk used. Volume can be.

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] A string comprising a silk cut as a main fiber, a silk binder cut and beaten and fibrillated, and further formed by slitting a silk nonwoven fabric containing a wet strength enhancer. Clothing using a string derived from silk non-woven fabric.