JP2804773B2 - Manufacturing method of grain fabric - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a fabric having a grain on its surface and a method for producing the same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a silky tone woven fabric that has a drape property and a soft feeling while having an appearance and a crispness similar to a strong twist woven fabric.

(Prior art) A strong twist is applied to a thermoplastic multifilament, and in this state, a part or all of each filament constituting the multifilament is heat-fused along a longitudinal direction, and then untwisted and untwisted. It is well known to use filaments having a state in textiles. Such a woven fabric is a woven fabric having a surface texture with a sharp feeling, but has a drawback that the feeling and the surface touch are too hard.

Some proposals have been made to improve this drawback. For example, JP-A-56-58066 discloses that "polyethylene terephthalate and a polyester copolymer containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component are used, and both components have a surface. A composite filament having a cross section in which one is divided into a plurality of regions so that both are exposed to each other, is subjected to false twisting in a temperature range in which the polyester copolymer is fused and polyethylene terephthalate is not fused, and then the filament is And then chemically treating the two components with solvents having different dissolution or decomposition rates. " However, this method does not completely dissolve the polyester copolymer, so even though it has excellent color depth and a sharp feeling,
Lack of soft surface and too sharp for silky tone. JP-A-59-71473 discloses "a polyester A component having a melting point of at least 150 ° C., which forms at least a part of the surface, and a polyester B component having a higher melting point than the A component and being hardly soluble in alkali. After forming a woven or knitted fabric using the fused alternate false twisted yarn obtained by fusion false twisting the polyester composite yarn, a dissolution removal treatment of dissolving and removing at least a part of the component A with an alkaline aqueous solution and a crimping treatment are performed. A method is disclosed. This method is intended to improve the crimping effect, and it is necessary to false-twist at a low temperature in order to increase the untwisting torque, and it is necessary to fuse all filaments to a position where they become monofilaments. There is a disadvantage that the swelling of the fabric disappears at all. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-82464 discloses that two types of fiber-forming polymers having a low mutual adhesion and a melting point difference of 10 ° C. or more have a bonding ratio of 1
0: 1 to 1: 5, which is joined along the longitudinal direction and has a cross section composed of at least four segments. While the melting point of the low-melting component is -25 ° C or higher and the softening point of the high-melting component does not exceed the softening point of the low-melting component, the low-melting components of the composite filament are heat-sealed along the longitudinal direction and then reverse-twisted. " Discloses that a high melting point ultrafine segment in a filament single yarn is exfoliated to form a woven or knitted fabric. The woven fabric obtained by this method is crumpled and the surface softness is considerably improved, but the sharpness is still too strong,
The texture is slightly firm.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) As described above, methods for obtaining a crisp woven fabric have been quite proposed, but all of them have too strong a crispness and can only obtain a hemp-like texture. At the same time, a fabric having a soft surface feeling and firmness has not been obtained.
The present inventors have solved these drawbacks, and obtained a silky-like woven fabric having both a moderate crispness and a feeling of excellent drapability and a soft surface feel that cannot be obtained with a woven fabric made of a conventional fused false twisted yarn. As a result of intensive studies, the present invention has been reached.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention is directed to a method of fabricating a fabric-forming polymer in which a polymer having a higher solubility than the fiber-forming polymer is divided into a plurality of segments, and one of the segments is substantially at the center of the filament cross section. The heater temperature at which only the highly soluble polymer softens in the composite filament yarn, which is a core segment with a fineness of 1.5 d or more occupying the core segment and the other segment is a fine fineness segment with a fineness of 1.2 d or less located surrounding the core segment A partially fused false twisting process, then weaving using the fused false twisted yarn, and further dissolving and removing a polymer having high solubility.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The false twisted crimped multifilament yarn used in the present invention is 1.5 d
The above core filament and surrounding the core filament
It is an aggregate of filament bundles composed of fine filaments of 1.2d or less.

FIGS. 1 and 2 show schematic cross-sectional shapes of such a multifilament yarn. In both figures, (1) shows a core filament and (2) shows a fineness filament.

The core filament is 1.5d to make the fabric stiff
The above fineness is required, preferably 2.5 to 5d, more preferably 3 to 5d. Fine filaments need a fineness of 1.2d or less to give a soft feeling on the fabric surface.
Preferably it is 0.8d or less. Further, since the fine filaments are located around the core filament, the core filaments are adjacent to each other with the fine filament interposed therebetween. For this reason, the fineness filaments also have a bearing effect on the friction between the core filaments, and the fineness is also required from this point. The total fineness ratio in the woven fabric of the core filament and the fineness filament is 1: 0.5 ~
1: 3 is preferred. When the total fineness ratio is less than 1: 0.5, the surface softness is poor even if there is a firm feeling, and when the total fineness ratio exceeds 1: 3, the soft feeling is too strong and the feeling of firmness becomes difficult to feel. The cross-sectional shape of the core filament and the fineness filament may be a round cross-section as shown in FIG. 1 or an irregular cross-section. In particular, as shown in FIG. If you use the fabric, silky silky feeling and rubbing
Effect can be given. When the core filament has an irregular cross section and a sharp edge, it is preferable that the fine fine filaments are composed of a fine fine filament group of 0.8 to 1.2 d and a fine fine filament group of 0.7 d or less. This three-stage fineness configuration is effective in reducing the glare caused by the sharp edges of the core filament. Further, the total fineness ratio of the fine fineness filament group and the ultrafine fineness filament group is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 3.

Preferably, such filaments are of the same polymer. This is because the fabric of the present invention can be given a uniform hue without giving a size shading effect or a different color effect, as well as the ease of spinning. The polymer is most preferably a polyester polymer containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and may be a copolymer of polyethylene terephthalate itself and a small amount of a dicarboxylic acid such as isophthalic acid or adipic acid, or a diol such as butylene glycol or diethylene glycol. Further, additives such as a twisting agent and a matting agent may be contained.

Such a multifilament yarn has a crimp that has been subjected to a partial fusion false twisting process, and has a SZ alternating twist structure with a random period as shown in a schematic side view of FIG. is there. By having an alternately twisted structure, crimping can be performed on the surface of the woven fabric, and since a false twist crimp is provided, a swelling feeling and a bulky feeling can be imparted to the woven fabric.

The grain fabric as described above can be obtained by using a multicomponent conjugate fiber as shown in the schematic cross-sectional views of FIGS.
In these figures, (A) is a core segment, (B) is a fineness segment surrounding the core segment,
(C) shows a readily soluble polymer. As described above, the core segment and the fineness segment are preferably made of a polyester-based polymer. Further, the easily soluble polymer needs to have higher solubility than the core segment and the fineness segment, and a polyester copolymer such as polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing a metal salt of isophthalic acid sulfonate and / or polyethylene glycol is used in an alkaline aqueous solution. , Which is convenient.

The multi-component conjugate fiber is subjected to partial fusion false twisting to form a crimped yarn, but the false twisting is performed at a heater temperature within a range where only the easily soluble polymer is softened. However,
The heater temperature is preferably as high as possible in the region, but not so high that all the single filaments of the composite filament are continuously fused along the longitudinal direction. The reason for this is that the false twist crimp becomes stronger as the temperature increases, but when all the single yarns are fused, the crimp is killed and only the crispness remains in the final fabric, and the swelling feeling is not expressed. Such conditions include, for example, when polyethylene terephthalate is used as the core segment and fineness segment, a polyester copolymer having a softening point of about 180 to 240 ° C. obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid and polyethylene glycol with polyethylene terephthalate as an easily soluble polymer. At 200 to 240 ° C., preferably 215
It is preferable to perform fusion false twisting at about 235 ° C. Further, it is preferable that the fused portion generated by the false twisting process is 50 to 200 places / m. Here, the softening point is defined as follows. That is, using a differential calorimeter (DSC), a sample amount of 10 mg,
The temperature is measured at a rate of 10 ° C / min, the range is ± 2 mcal / sec, and the atmosphere is measured under a nitrogen gas condition. The temperature at which the endothermic peak of each component accompanying the melting starts is defined as the softening point.

Next, after weaving using the partially fused false twisting yarn, the easily soluble polymer is dissolved and removed, and the filament is divided into a core filament and a fineness filament. The dissolution removal treatment must always be performed after weaving. That is, when the dissolution and removal are performed before weaving, the torque that alternately exists in the twisting direction and the untwisting direction is first lost during the process of removing the easily soluble component, so that the fabric cannot be crimped. Because.

As a method for dissolving and removing the easily soluble polymer, a conventionally known method is used. For example, the treatment may be carried out with a heated aqueous solution of an alkali metal hydroxide by a batch method, a jigger, a wind, a beam, a suspension tank, or the like. The alkali treatment time varies depending on the cross-sectional morphology of the composite filament, the alkali concentration, the treatment temperature, and the like.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples.

Example 1 Example 1 10% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate (melting point: 260 ° C., softening point: 245 ° C.) containing 0.05% by weight of titanium dioxide and 2.5% by mole of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 4,000. Using a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer (melting point 244 ° C., softening point 190 ° C.), a composite filament 15 having a cross section as shown in FIG.
0d / 8f, 150d / 12f, 150d / 24f were compounded and drawn. The core segment (A) and the fineness segment (B) in FIG. 3 are polyethylene terephthalate, and the easily soluble polymer (C) is a polyethylene terephthalate copolymer. In this spinning, polyethylene terephthalate:
By fixing the volume ratio of the polyethylene terephthalate copolymer to 3: 1 and changing the diameter of the base orifice, the fineness of the core segment (A) and the fineness segment (B) was changed to obtain 10 types of composite filaments. Was.

Each obtained composite filament was heated at a heater temperature of 230.
False twisting was performed at a temperature of 2400 T / M (S twisting) at 120 ° C to obtain a partially fused false twisted yarn at 120 places / m. Each of the composite filaments was in an SZ alternating twist state before and after the fused portion. Each yarn was used as a warp and a weft to obtain a plain fabric with a warp density of 80 yarns / inch and a weft density of 70 yarns / inch. These plain fabrics were immersed in a 1% aqueous NaOH solution and treated at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes to completely dissolve and remove the polyethylene terephthalate copolymer.

Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the plain fabric after the treatment, and FIG. 1 shows a schematic cross-sectional view.

From this result, the fineness of the segment is that the core segment (A) is 1.5d or more, more preferably 2.5d to 5d, and the fineness segment (B) is 1.2d or less, preferably 0.8d or less. I understand.

Example 2 A composite filament 150d / 12f having a cross section as shown in FIG. 4 was spun out using the same polymer combination as in Example 1. The volume ratio of polyethylene terephthalate: polyethylene terephthalate copolymer was 3: 1. The composite filament was false-twisted at 2400 T / M by changing the false-twisting temperature to obtain seven types of false-twisted yarns, which were subjected to weaving and dissolving treatment in the same manner as in Example 1.

Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained plain fabrics, and FIG. 2 shows a schematic cross-sectional view thereof.

This result indicates that the false twist temperature needs to be higher than the softening point of the polyester copolymer and lower than the softening point of polyethylene terephthalate.

(Effect of the Invention) The polyester woven fabric obtained by the present invention is a woven fabric of the conventional fused false twist yarn while having the feeling and feel obtained by using the conventional fused false twist yarn, such as surface texture and sharpness. The woven fabric of the present invention is suitable as a material for thin garments such as women's blouses and dresses, taking into account a swelling feeling and a silky feeling with a soft surface that could not be obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIGS. 1 and 2 are examples of schematic cross-sectional views of a multifilament constituting the polyester fabric of the present invention, and FIGS.
FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a composite yarn for obtaining such a cross-sectional configuration. FIG. 6 is a schematic view showing a side surface of a fiber constituting the polyester fabric of the present invention.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D06M 11/38 D06M 5/02 G // D06M 101: 32 9/02 B (56) References JP-A-56-118925 (JP) JP-A-50-154573 (JP, A) JP-A-54-151618 (JP, A) JP-A-1-162,813 (JP, A) JP-B-44-4636 (JP, B1) JP-B-A1 47-35343 (JP, B1) JP 52-10954 (JP, B1) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D03D 15/04 D03D 15/00 D02G 1/02 D02G 3 / 36 D06M 11/38

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A method for producing a woven fabric having a texture on a surface using a fused false twist multifilament yarn, wherein a fiber-forming polymer is formed into a plurality of segments by a polymer having higher solubility than the fiber-forming polymer. Divided, one of the segments occupying approximately the center of the filament cross section
The core segment is 1.5d or more, and the other segments are partially fused at the heater temperature where only the highly soluble polymer is softened to the composite filament yarn, which is a fineness segment with a fineness of 1.2d or less, surrounding the core segment. Performing false twisting, then weaving using the fused false twisted yarn,
A method for producing a textured fabric, comprising dissolving and removing a polymer having high solubility.