JP2021075804A - Partial burnt-out knitting fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide burnt-out knitting fabric in which a portion subjected to burnt-out knitting is composed by polyester fibers, and a portion that is not subjected to the burnt-out knitting is also composed by polyester fibers to enable the burnt-out knitting with 100% polyester and provide burnt-out knitting fabric with excellent designability.SOLUTION: Knitting fabric composed by burnt-out-prone polyester fibers and burnt-out-retardant polyester, in which the burnt-out-prone polyester fiber and the burnt-out-retardant polyester forms the same needle loop, the knitting fabric being partially burnt out. It is preferable that the burnt-out-prone polyester fibers and the burnt-out-retardant polyester are subjected to doubling and the ratio of the area of the burnt-out portion is 20% or more of the whole area.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to a knitted fabric made of polyester fibers and partially eroded, suitable for sports garment applications.

In recent years, design fabrics using various methods have been developed and are widely used in general clothing applications such as the fashion field. In particular, among the design fabrics, the fabric obtained by removing the fibers constituting the fabric is excellent in water absorption and quick drying, breathability, and light weight, and its use is expanding for sports clothing or inner clothing.

As an example of the technique for removing the fibers constituting the cloth, there are a method of removing the easily desorbable fibers from the entire cloth and a method of partially removing the cloth by using a printing method.
As a method conventionally used, a method of removing only cellulose fibers by partially acid-treating a fabric composed of cellulose fibers such as cotton and rayon and polyester fibers by a printing method is common. However, in recent years, a technique for performing a corrosion processing on a fabric composed of synthetic fibers for the purpose of developing into sports clothing is widely known.

As an example of a technique for performing a corrosion processing on a fabric composed of synthetic fibers, a fabric composed of two types of synthetic fibers having different alkali solubilities (easy-removable fiber and difficult-removable fiber) is printed by a printing method. It is common to remove only the easily desorbable fibers by partially alkali-treating them.

For example, in Patent Document 1, a cationic dyeable polyester fiber is used as an easily leaching fiber, and a nylon fiber and a polyurethane fiber are used as a vulnerable fiber, and a warp-knitted fabric in which each is interwoven is prepared and inkjet printed. A knitted fabric is disclosed in which cationic polyester fibers, which are easily desorbable fibers, are eroded by partial alkaline treatment using a technique to give a sense of sheerness.

In the method of partially removing corrosion of a fabric composed of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers by a printing method, the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing is only polyester fibers, and the part that has not been subjected to corrosion processing is composed of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers. .. Cellulose fibers such as cotton have excellent hygroscopicity, but have the property of being difficult to dry when wet with water, and are not suitable for sports involving sweating due to exercise.
Similarly, in Patent Document 1, the portion that has been eroded is only nylon fiber, and the portion that has not been eroded is composed of nylon fiber and cationic polyester fiber. Nylon fiber has a concern of whitening and yellowing, and the softening temperature difference between polyester fiber and nylon fiber is large, so that molding processing such as molding is difficult.

International Publication No. 2007/049710

The present invention has been made in view of the above, and in the fabric of the present invention, the part that has been eroded is made of polyester fiber, and the part that has not been eroded is also made of polyester fiber. An object of the present invention is to provide a corrosion-processed fabric having excellent design.

The present invention has the following configuration.
1. 1. It is a knit made of easily leaching polyester fiber and vulnerable polyester, and the easing erosion polyester fiber and the vulnerable polyester form the same needle loop, and partially evacuate. The knitting that has been done.
2. The knit according to 1 in which an easily leaching polyester fiber and a vulnerable polyester fiber are combined and processed.
3. 3. The knit according to 1 or 2, wherein the ratio of the area of the eroded portion is 20% or more of the whole.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a partially de-corrosion knit that enables de-corrosion processing with 100% polyester.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric composed of easily leaching polyester fibers and vulnerable polyester fibers, and the easily leaching polyester fibers and the vulnerable polyester fibers form the same needle loop. , Partially eroded.

Since it is made of polyester fiber, it is easy to dye and it is easy to obtain a knitted fabric with high strength.
Further, since the easily leaching polyester fiber and the vulnerable polyester fiber form the same needle loop, the fiber can be prevented from fraying from the end portion of the wicked polyester fiber.
Forming the same needle loop means that the easily-extractable polyester fiber and the non-extractable polyester are woven in the same place, and are in a state of being aligned or a synthetic yarn.

The easily leaching polyester fiber constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a fiber having low chemical resistance in opal processing, and is used for weight loss processing applied to improve the texture of a general polyester fiber woven or knitted fabric. With the same alkali as above, it has an alkali-easy-dissolving property that makes it easy to remove corrosion.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the easily leaching polyester fiber is preferably a polyester multifilament that is easily eroded by alkali, with ethylene terephthalate as the main constituent unit and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 or more and 8 or less carbon atoms. It is preferably a polyester multifilament copolymerized at mol% or more and 25 mol% or less.
The first polyester multifilament is copolymerized with 16 mol% or more of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 or more and 8 or less carbon atoms, thereby disturbing the amorphous structure of the fiber and thereby improving the alkali-contact property of the polyester fiber. It is easy to exert the effect of increasing, and since it is copolymerized in an amount of 25 mol% or less, it is easy to exert the effect of suppressing a significant decrease in mechanical and thermal characteristics.
Examples of the aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 4 or more carbon atoms and 8 or less carbon atoms include succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, and siberic acid, and adipic acid is preferable.

As the resistant polyester fiber constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate fiber (which is composed of unmodified polyethylene terephthalate and is also called regular polyester fiber), which is a fiber having high chemical resistance, is shown.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the refractory polyester fiber is preferably a polyester multifilament that is refractory to alkali, for example, a polyester fiber used for general clothing, and is a known fiber grade polyester (polyethylene). (Telephthalate), copolymerized polyester (polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate), and composite polyesters thereof, among which known fiber grade polyesters (polyethylene terephthalate) are versatile and stretchable during dyeing. From the viewpoint of, it is preferable. Further, the cross section of the fiber and the content of titanium oxide contained therein are not particularly limited.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the easily leaching polyester fiber and the hardly leaching polyester are yarn-processed.

The combined yarn refers to an aggregated yarn in which easily leaching polyester and difficult-to-penetrate polyester are combined by a general combined yarn processing method such as a combined twisting process and an air blending process.

For the twisting process, a commonly used twisting machine may be used for twisting two or more yarns. For example, a machine such as an Italian twisting machine, a double twister, a ring twisting machine, a twisting machine, or a covering machine. There is.

The air mixed fiber processing is a processing in which high-pressure air (air) is sent to two or more running yarns to entangle the yarns, and examples thereof include interlacing processing and Taslan processing.

The easily leaching polyester fiber and the vulnerable polyester fiber before the combined yarn processing may be subjected to the yarn processing described in the twisting process, the false twisting process and the like, respectively.

In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the ratio of the area of the portion that has been subjected to the corrosion processing is preferably 20% or more of the whole.

When the ratio of the area of the portion to which the corrosion processing is performed is 20% or more of the whole, the light weight effect and the air permeability improving effect due to the corrosion processing are likely to be exhibited.

Next, the step of the corrosion processing in the present invention will be specifically described.
In the present invention, as described above, the obtained knitted fabric is subjected to a corrosion processing. Specifically, a part-printed part to which a corrosion-removing processing agent is applied (stamped) by screen printing, rotary printing, or inkjet printing is performed.

As a printing method, flat screen printing is preferable in which a flat screen type is used and a corrosion processing agent is applied to the pattern. For flat screen prints, the screen mold is placed on the fabric, and the anticorrosive agent is applied by squeezing over the screen mold. As a machine, an automatic screen printer can be used. In an automatic screen printer, the dough is continuously supplied from the feeder, pressed by a roller on the upper surface of the endless belt coated with the adhesive, and adhered. Then, when the endless belt advances and stops at the stamping position, the screen mold descends, the squeegee moves in the mold to print, and when the stamping is completed, the screen mold rises and the belt advances. After printing, the dough is peeled off from the belt at the end of the belt and introduced into the drying chamber. Only one screen type may be used, or a plurality of screen types may be used.

In the inkjet printing process, minute droplets (ink) are directly blown from pores called heads to the fabric to apply a corrosion processing agent. Compared to conventional screen printing, it does not require a mold, so running costs are low and productivity is high. The ink is filled with a corrosion processing agent, and the computer-created design is printed with an inkjet printer. After printing, the dough is introduced into the drying chamber.

As the corrosion processing agent, an agent containing a glue and a component having a corrosion removing action can be used. Examples of the component having a corrosion-removing action include alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and one of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda), potassium hydroxide (caustic potash), sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate. Alternatively, two types can be used. The amount of alkali metal hydroxide and alkaline earth metal hydroxide used may be adjusted according to the mass of the polyester multifilament to be eroded, but in general, it is 1% by mass or more with respect to the erosion processing agent. It is preferably used in the range of mass% or less. The corrosion processing agent may contain a corrosion accelerator, if necessary. The corrosion accelerator is not particularly limited, and commercially available ones can be used. For example, glycerin ethylene oxide adduct and quaternary ammonium salt can be mentioned, but it is preferable to use OP-2 manufactured by Meisei Chemical Works, Ltd.

The glue contained in the anticorrosion processing agent includes natural, processed, locust bean gum type, starch type, dextrin type, crystal gum type, tragant gum type, cellulosic type, carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, etc. Semi-synthetic and synthetic pastes can be used alone or in combination of two or more. The ratio of the sizing agent is not particularly limited as long as it can maintain an appropriate viscosity for imprinting the detoxification processing agent and performing the heat treatment, and is contained, for example, 1% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less with respect to the dechopping processing agent. Is preferable.
Other compounds such as dyes can be further added to the corrosion processing agent.

Next, the knitted fabric stamped with the corrosion processing agent is heat-treated and washed.

The heat treatment preferably gives superheated steam of 150 ° C. or higher and 200 ° C. or lower. When the temperature of the superheated steam is 150 ° C. or higher, the corrosion property is good, and when the temperature is 200 ° C. or lower, the texture of the polyester multifilament can be reduced from becoming hard.
The heat treatment time is preferably 5 minutes or more and 15 minutes or less. When the heat treatment time is 5 minutes or more, the corrosion resistance is good, and when the heat treatment time is 15 minutes or less, the decrease in strength of the non-corrosion portion can be reduced.
Examples of the heat treatment method include a baking method, a steam method, and an HT steam method, but the HT steam method is preferable because the corrosion pattern becomes sharp.

After the heat treatment, cleaning is performed for the purpose of removing the embrittled polyester multifilament of the printing portion. The cleaning method is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a general-purpose alkaline aqueous solution for treatment. Since it is treated with a general-purpose alkaline aqueous solution, it is unlikely to be a heavy load on the dyeing processing plant. The alkaline agent is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, sodium carbonate and the like, but sodium hydroxide is preferable from the viewpoint of cost and the like. The alkali concentration is preferably 1% or more and 10% or less. Within the above range, an appropriate corrosion removal rate can be obtained and the corrosion removal rate can be easily controlled. The cleaning temperature is preferably 60 ° C. or higher and 100 ° C. or lower from the viewpoint of the strength of the resistant polyester for the imprinted portion, and the cleaning time is 5 minutes or more and 150 minutes or less from the viewpoint of the strength of the easily corrosive polyester for the non-printed portion. Is preferable. After that, it is washed with water, dehydrated and dried.

By the above-mentioned processing method, it is possible to obtain a partially de-corrosion knitted product in which the easily de-emovable polyester of the portion stamped with the de-erosion processing agent has fallen off. The obtained partially de-corrosion knit is subjected to known treatments such as dyeing and finishing, if necessary.

In addition, an additive such as a corrosion accelerator, a paste, or a surfactant may be used in combination with the alkaline aqueous solution used for the alkaline demolition process, if necessary.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. The evaluation items in the examples were measured by the following method.
(Appearance evaluation)
The knitted structure could be maintained even after the corrosion processing, and the part where the corrosion processing was performed and the portion where the corrosion processing was not performed were evaluated on a three-point scale to see if they were clear and the pattern edge was sharp.
Evaluation criteria 〇: The knitting structure is maintained and the pattern edge is sharp.
Δ: The knitting structure can be maintained, but the sharpness of the pattern edge is a little lacking.
X: The knitting structure is not maintained or the pattern edge is lacking in sharpness.

(Example 1)
(Preparation of knitting A)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP84T48F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 84dtex48 filament) and regular polyester multifilament (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd., 84dtex36 filament, false twisted yarn) were prepared as the difficult-to-contact polyester fiber.
Both fibers were brought together to obtain a 100% polyester knitted fabric A having a plain structure, 50% by mass of easily erosion-resistant polyester fibers, and 50% by mass of non-extractable polyester fibers by a 16G flat knitting machine.

The obtained knitted fabric A was smelted and heat-set to prepare a dough under printing.
Using a hand-printing machine, the de-corrosion paste was imprinted on the printed fabric through a gauze on the first mold. 20% by mass of polyester fiber corrosion accelerator (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., product name "OP-2"), 5% by mass of anhydrous sodium carbonate, and original glue (etherified starch: AVEBE product) The name "Sorbitose C-5" (solid content 10%) was 50% by mass, and the rest was water. The gauze used had a density of 800 mesh.

The knitted fabric stamped with the de-corrosion paste was heat-dried and heat-treated with a HT steaming machine at 150 ° C. for 10 minutes.
After that, it was washed with hot water and alkaline. The purpose of the alkaline washing is to promote the detachment of the easily removable polyester fiber existing in the printed portion. The liquid was changed, and caustic soda water was added to carry out alkaline washing. Then, it was neutralized with acetic acid.

Then, the liquid was drained and filled with water, dyed using a disperse dye, subjected to a reduction cleaning step, resin-applied, dried, and finally set to obtain a finished knitted fabric.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Example 2)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric B described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Preparation of knitting B)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester multifilaments (84dtex36 filaments manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd., false twisted yarn) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
Both fibers were twisted using a twisting machine to obtain a combined twist of 300 times / m. Using the obtained plyed yarn, a single circular knitting machine was used to obtain 100% polyester knitted fabric B composed of 40% by mass of easily erosion-resistant polyester fiber and 60% by mass of non-extractable polyester fiber in the Omotesando structure. It was.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Example 3)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric C described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Making knitting C)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester multifilaments (33dtex12 filaments, false-twisted yarn) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
Both fibers were twisted at 1000 times / m using a twisting machine. Using a 28G double circular knitting machine, a synthetic twisted yarn is placed in the rib structure, and a regular polyester multifilament (56dtex72 filament, false twisted yarn), which is a polyester fiber that is difficult to pull out, is placed in the cylinder structure. , A 100% polyester knitted fabric C composed of 39% by mass of easily removable polyester fibers and 61% by mass of difficult-to-contact polyester fibers was obtained.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Example 4)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric D described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Preparation of knitting D)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipinoic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester fibers (56dtex24 filaments, false-twisted yarn) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
Using a 28G warp knitting machine, easy-to-contact polyester fibers are placed on the front reed with a denbi structure, difficult-to-touch polyester fibers are placed on the middle reed with a half-structure, and difficult-to-touch polyester fibers are placed on the back reed. The polyester fibers were arranged in the insertion structure to knit a tricot to obtain a 100% polyester knitted fabric D composed of 39% by mass of easily erosion-resistant polyester fibers and 61% by mass of non-extractable polyester fibers.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Example 5)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric E described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Preparation of knitting E)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester multifilaments (22dtex1 filaments, raw yarn) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
A double-covered yarn was obtained by arranging two difficult-to-contact polyester fibers using a covering twisting machine for both fibers and double-covering the easy-to-contact polyester fibers around them at 500 times / m.
Using a 22G double-sided warp knitting machine, the double-covered yarn is placed on the L1 and L2 reeds with a back half structure, and regular polyester multifilament (33dtex1 filament, raw yarn) is piled on the L3 reed as a difficult-to-contact polyester fiber. Arranged in the structure, regular polyester multifilament (167dtex48 filament, raw yarn) was placed in the L4 reed as a difficult-to-touch polyester fiber, and placed in the inserted structure, and regular polyester multifilament (167dtex48) was placed in the L5 reed as a difficult-to-touch polyester fiber. Filament (filament, raw yarn) was arranged in a chain structure to knit a tricot to obtain a 100% polyester knitted fabric E composed of 41% by mass of easily erosion-resistant polyester fiber and 59% by mass of non-extractable polyester fiber.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Comparative Example 1)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric F described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Making knit F)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester multifilaments (84dtex72 filaments, false twisted yarns) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
Using a 28G double circular knitting machine, difficult-to-touch polyester fibers were placed in the rib structure, easy-to-touch polyester fibers were placed in the cylinder structure with an ALL knit structure, and knitted with a tuck mesh structure. A 100% polyester knitted fabric F composed of 38% by mass of easily erosion-resistant polyester fiber and 62% by mass of non-extractable polyester fiber was obtained.
In the knitted fabric F, a piece of easily removable polyester fiber remained at the handle of the portion that had been punched and the portion that had not been punched, and the appearance evaluation was x.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

(Comparative Example 2)
A finished knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the knitted fabric A of Example 1 was replaced with the knitted fabric G described later and the pattern to be punched was changed.
(Making knit G)
A modified polyester multifilament (NP56T36F, manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Co., Ltd.) having an adipic acid copolymerization amount of 18 mol% and a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerization amount of 2.5 mol% as easy-to-touch polyester fibers. 56dtex36 filaments) and regular polyester multifilaments (84dtex72 filaments, false twisted yarns) were prepared as difficult-to-contact polyester fibers.
Using a 28G double circular knitting machine, easy-to-touch polyester fibers were placed in the rib structure, difficult-to-touch polyester fibers were placed in the cylinder structure, and knitted with a tuck mesh structure. A 100% polyester knitted fabric F composed of 69% by mass of an easily erosion-resistant polyester fiber and 31% by mass of a non-extractable polyester fiber was obtained.
In the knitted fabric F, the knitted structure of the portion that had been subjected to the corrosion processing collapsed, and the shape as a cloth could not be maintained, and the appearance evaluation was x.
Table 1 shows the appearance evaluation results and the area of the part that has been subjected to corrosion processing.

Claims (3)

It is a knit made of easily leaching polyester fiber and vulnerable polyester, and the easing erosion polyester fiber and the vulnerable polyester form the same needle loop, and partially evacuate. The knitting that has been done. The knit according to claim 1, wherein the easily leasable polyester fiber and the vulnerable polyester are combined and processed. The knit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ratio of the area of the eroded portion is 20% or more of the whole.