JP2020046212A - Method for evaluating or searching for rich and full-flavored cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a method for objectively and efficiently evaluating or searching for rich and full-flavored cosmetics or its raw material.SOLUTION: A method for evaluating or searching for rich and flavored cosmetic or its raw material, which includes the steps of; applying a test sample to human skin (A); measuring the amount of oxytocin in a biological sample collected from a human (B); and evaluating or selecting the test sample for increasing the amount of oxytocin as the rich and flavored cosmetic or its raw material in comparison of the amount of oxytocin with a reference value (C).SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for evaluating or searching for cosmetics exhibiting richness during use or raw materials thereof.

  In recent years, cosmetics have been an important required property in terms of the feeling of use during application, and in recent years, they have a certain feeling of weight during application and a feeling of use that gives a high-density feel, so-called “rich” use. There is a tendency for the feeling (full-bodied feeling) to be preferred. In order to prepare a cosmetic exhibiting such richness, a formulation in which a thickening agent such as a synthetic polymer compound or a thickening polysaccharide, a higher alcohol, an organic powder and the like are blended has been devised (for example, patents). References 1, 2, 3). However, expert evaluation is necessary to objectively evaluate the feeling of application on the skin such as "thickness", and it is not easy to train such experts. In addition, a large number of people are required for a non-expert to judge the feel objectively, which is not easy.

  Oxytocin, on the other hand, is a peptide hormone composed of nine amino acids and is synthesized mainly in the hypothalamus of the brain. Oxytocin is increased in lactating mothers and is involved in lactation.In recent years, it has been shown that oxytocin is produced not only in women but also in men. Has been reported to be involved in attachment / social formation (Non-Patent Document 1).

  In addition, the oxytocin production promoting substance has an anxiolytic action and an effect of improving wrinkles and skin softness (Patent Document 4). It has been reported that it is effective for injury and that it promotes barrier formation in the epidermis (Patent Document 5).

  However, the relationship between the amount of oxytocin in the living body and the feeling of use of the cosmetic has not been clarified.

JP 2013-95737 A JP-A-2006-160618 JP 2014-205628 A JP 2011-98898 A JP 2002-525337 A

Lieberwirth and Wang, CURRENT OPINION IN NEUROBIOLOGY, doi: 10.1016 / j.conb.2016.05.006, 2016

  The present invention relates to providing a method for objectively and efficiently evaluating or searching for cosmetics exhibiting richness or raw materials thereof.

  The present inventors have found that the amount of oxytocin in a living body increases when a cosmetic exhibiting richness is applied for a certain period of time. Therefore, using the amount of oxytocin as an index, it is possible to evaluate or search for a cosmetic material or its raw material exhibiting a rich body, and to use the body as an index, to evaluate or search for a cosmetic material or a raw material thereof that increases oxytocin in vivo. It is believed that there is.

That is, the present invention relates to the following 1) to 2).
1) A method for evaluating or searching for rich cosmetics or raw materials thereof, including the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) a step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) a step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value to increase the amount of oxytocin Evaluating or selecting the test sample to be tested as a cosmetic exhibiting richness or a raw material thereof 2) A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic that raises oxytocin in vivo or a raw material thereof, including the following steps (D) to (F) .
(D) a step of applying a test sample to human skin; (E) a step of evaluating the richness felt when the test sample is applied; A step of evaluating or selecting as a cosmetic or a raw material thereof that raises oxytocin

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the cosmetics which show body or its raw material can be evaluated or searched objectively and efficiently, and the cosmetics which raise oxytocin in a living body, or its raw material can be evaluated or searched.

The graph which shows the change of the amount of oxytocin in saliva by the continuous application of the cosmetics which show a body.

  In the present invention, “body” is a sensory evaluation term related to the use of cosmetics, and refers to a rich, thick and heavy feel from the time when the cosmetic is applied to the skin until it is applied, and the richness and luxury , Rich feeling and the like.

Examples of the "cosmetics exhibiting richness" of the present invention include basic cosmetics such as milky lotions, creams, lotions, gels, and essences, makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, liquid foundations, makeup press powders, and facial cleansers. And other cleansing cosmetics. Of these, basic cosmetics and makeup cosmetics are preferred, and emulsions, creams, lotions, gels, and essences are more preferred.
The form is not particularly limited, and may be any of a water-in-oil emulsion composition, an oil-in-water emulsion composition, an aqueous composition, a gel composition, and the like.

  "Raw material of a cosmetic exhibiting a rich body" is a raw material for producing a cosmetic exhibiting a rich body, and is preferably a component (for example, a synthetic polymer) that is blended with the cosmetic to impart a rich feeling. Compounds, thickeners such as thickening polysaccharides, higher alcohols, etc.) and compositions containing these.

  As shown in Examples below, a cream evaluated as having a rich body by 33 specialists was applied to 33 women twice a day in the morning and at night on the entire face after face washing for 4 weeks. When the change in the amount of oxytocin in saliva was measured, a significant increase in the amount of oxytocin was observed. This result indicates that it is possible to evaluate or search for a cosmetic material exhibiting richness or its raw material using the amount of oxytocin in the living body as an index. In addition, it is considered that this result indicates that cosmetics or their raw materials that increase oxytocin in vivo can be evaluated or searched using body as an index.

The method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic material having a rich body or its raw material according to the present invention is performed by the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) a step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) a step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value to increase the amount of oxytocin The step of evaluating or selecting the test sample to be used as a rich cosmetic or its raw material

  The “human” in the step (A) is not particularly limited in sex and age, but is preferably a healthy adult.

  The test sample to be applied to the human skin is not particularly limited as long as it is a substance or a composition that can be used as a cosmetic or a raw material thereof, but is preferably rich when applied to human skin. Is a cosmetic or a raw material thereof which is expected to exhibit

  The application form of the test sample is application to the skin, and the application period and the number of applications can be appropriately set, but preferably once to three times a day, preferably twice a day. Immediately after use, for 5 weeks, preferably for 1 to 4 weeks, more preferably for 2 to 4 weeks. After the test sample is applied, it is preferable to collect at least 2 hours after the last stimulation.

  In the present invention, the biological sample is a sample collected from a subject, and specifically includes blood (including plasma, serum, blood cells (red blood cells, white blood cells)), urine, saliva, lymph, and the like. Examples include saliva, blood (including plasma, serum, and blood cells) and urine, and more preferably saliva.

In the step (B), the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample is measured.
Oxytocin is a peptide hormone consisting of 9 amino acid residues. Oxytocin is known to be synthesized by macrocellular neurons present in the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus and supraoptic nucleus of the cerebrum, and released into the blood from the posterior pituitary gland.
The measurement of the amount of oxytocin was performed by liquid chromatography (HPLC), liquid chromatography mass spectrometer (LC-MS), liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometer (LC-MS / MS), gas chromatograph mass spectrometer (GC-MS). ) Or immunological techniques such as enzyme immunoassay (ELISA). These measurement conditions are known and can be easily quantified according to a conventional method.
The ELISA method can be performed using, for example, the Oxytocin ELISA kit (Enzo).

Next, the amount of oxytocin is compared with a reference value, and a test sample that increases the amount of oxytocin is evaluated or selected as a cosmetic exhibiting richness or its raw material (step (C)).
That is, a test sample that increases the amount of oxytocin is identified by comparing the amount of oxytocin (eg, the amount of oxytocin per protein in a biological sample) with a reference value. The reference value is measured when test samples having different richness are applied (for example, a test sample application group having a lower richness or a placebo group (a test sample application group that does not exhibit richness)). In addition to the amount of oxytocin and the amount of oxytocin measured before the application of the test sample, a predetermined amount of oxytocin in an individual to which the test sample is not applied, and the like.
Specifically, between the test sample application group with a higher degree of body and the test sample application group with a lower degree of body; between the test sample application group and the placebo group; or before and after application of the test sample. In the comparison of the amount of oxytocin, when the amount of oxytocin increases due to the application of a test sample or the application of a test sample having a higher degree of richness, based on the increase or the rate of increase, or exceeding a predetermined amount of oxytocin In that case, the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin based on the value.
For example, if the amount of oxytocin in the test sample-administered group is increased to 20% or more, preferably 50% or more as compared with the control group, the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin. it can. In addition, when the amount of oxytocin in the test sample application group exceeds a predetermined amount of oxytocin (for example, 5 pg per unit protein amount), the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin.
The identified test sample that increases the amount of oxytocin can be evaluated or selected as a rich cosmetic or its raw material.

  Cosmetics exhibiting richness selected in this way can be rich, thick and heavy feels from the time of application to the skin until they are applied, and can be high-quality cosmetics that bring out a sense of quality and richness. . In addition, the selected cosmetic raw material can be used as a raw material for imparting richness in the production of a cosmetic exhibiting the richness.

In addition, the evaluation or search of cosmetics or raw materials for increasing oxytocin in vivo using body as an index is performed by the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) a step of applying a test sample to human skin; (E) a step of evaluating the richness felt when the test sample is applied; A step of evaluating or selecting as a cosmetic or a raw material thereof that raises oxytocin

Here, the application of the test sample to the human skin in (D) is the same as in (A).
The evaluation of the richness in (E) is based on the evaluation of the richness felt by the test subject when the test sample is applied, for example, <1> no richness, <2> little richness, <3> neither can be said, < The determination may be made based on criteria such as <4> slightly rich or <5> rich.
Based on the evaluation results, the test sample found to exhibit richness can be evaluated or selected as a cosmetic for raising oxytocin in vivo or a raw material thereof (F).

Regarding the above-described embodiment, the present invention further discloses the following aspects.
<1> A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic exhibiting rich body or its raw material, comprising the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) a step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) a step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value to increase the amount of oxytocin <2> The method according to <1>, wherein the biological sample is blood, serum, plasma, urine, or saliva.
<3> A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic that raises oxytocin in vivo or a raw material thereof, comprising the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) a step of applying a test sample to human skin; (E) a step of evaluating the richness felt when the test sample is applied; <4> The method according to any one of <1> to <3>, wherein the step of evaluating or selecting a cosmetic for raising oxytocin or a raw material thereof is <4> the cosmetic is selected from cream, lotion, emulsion and essence.

1. Sensory Evaluation of Cream (1) Method 1) Preparation of Cream Creams P and Q were prepared. Cream P is richer than cream Q by adding higher alcohols and paste oils, and richer by increasing the amount of the thickener. The richness of Cream P or Cream Q was confirmed by a sensory evaluation test shown below.

2) Outline of sensory evaluation test 33 women 30 to 54 years old were placed with cream P or cream Q at five places on both cheeks, nose (nose line), and chin (about 0.5 g), and both hands until fingers were no longer slippery. Asked to fit the whole face.

3) Evaluation of richness After applying each cream, evaluation was made as to whether there was richness during the application. The rating scale is a five-point score (<1> not applicable, <2> not very applicable, <3> neither can be said, <4> somewhat applicable, <5> applicable), and the average score evaluation value of each cream The value was determined.

(2) Results As a result of calculating the average of the richness evaluation values of each cream, cream Q was 2.88 and cream P was 3.61. From this, it became clear that Cream P was a cream having a high body during application. In addition, also in the sensory evaluation by an expert, it was confirmed that the cream P had a richer feeling.

2. Analysis of changes in oxytocin before and after continuous use of the cream (1) Method 1) Outline of the test Cream on the entire face of 35 women in their 20s and 30s twice daily in the morning and at night, after daily skin care after face washing The application of P or Q (about 0.5 g) was continued for 4 weeks.

2) Saliva collection Saliva was collected before using cream P or Q and after continuous use for 4 weeks. Saliva after continuous use for 4 weeks was collected at least 2 hours after the last stimulation. After the mouth was rinsed with water, all saliva was required to be discharged into a centrifuge tube for 10 minutes. Saliva was immediately frozen on dry ice and stored at -80 ° C.

3) Measurement of oxytocin in saliva A supernatant (1.5 to 3.0 mL) after centrifugation of whole saliva was mixed with an equal amount of an aqueous 0.1% (v / v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) solution. The supernatant after centrifugation (3,000 rpm, 30 min) was applied to a Sep-pak C18 column (200 mg, 3 cc, Waters) to perform extraction as described below. 1 mL of 100% acetonitrile (ACN) was passed through a C18 column, followed by 10 mL of a 0.1% aqueous TFA solution (v / v), followed by whole saliva (3. 0-6.0 mL) and washed with 10 mL of 0.1% TFA aqueous solution (v / v), then 3 mL of (95% ACN / 5% (0.1% TFA aqueous solution)) (v / v) Was eluted. The ACN of the eluted solution was volatilized with N2 gas, the remaining aqueous solution was subjected to lyophilization, and the lyophilized product was dissolved in 250 μl of Assay Buffer in Oxytocin ELISA kit (Enzo) and quantified using the above kit. The bio-rad Protein assay (BIO-RAD) was used to quantify the protein concentration (mg / mL) in saliva before extraction and concentration based on a calibration curve prepared with bovine serum albumin, and the amount of oxytocin per unit protein amount was determined. Was calculated, and the rate of change was calculated with the amount before use of the cream being 100.

(3) Results As a result of examining the change in the amount of oxytocin in saliva before and after the continuous use of cream P or Q, a significant increase was recognized by continuous use of cream P as shown in FIG. On the other hand, no significant increase was observed in Cream Q. From this, it became clear that oxytocin in the living body increases by continuously using the rich cream P.

Claims (4)

A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic exhibiting richness or a raw material thereof, comprising the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) a step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) a step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value to increase the amount of oxytocin The step of evaluating or selecting the test sample to be used as a rich cosmetic or its raw material   The method according to claim 1, wherein the biological sample is blood, serum, plasma, urine or saliva. A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic or a raw material thereof for increasing oxytocin in a living body, comprising the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) a step of applying a test sample to human skin; (E) a step of evaluating the richness felt when the test sample is applied; A step of evaluating or selecting as a cosmetic or a raw material thereof that raises oxytocin   4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic is selected from creams, lotions, emulsions and essences.

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