JP7176902B2 - Method for evaluating or searching for cosmetics exhibiting richness - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic that exhibits richness when used or a raw material thereof.

In recent years, the feeling of use at the time of application is an important requirement for cosmetics. There is a tendency to prefer the feeling (rich feeling). In order to prepare cosmetics exhibiting such richness, formulations have been devised that incorporate thickeners such as synthetic polymer compounds and thickening polysaccharides, higher alcohols, organic powders, etc. (for example, patent References 1, 2, 3). However, in order to objectively evaluate the sensation of application to the skin, such as "richness", judgment by experts is required, and it is not easy to train such experts. In addition, many people are required to objectively judge the feeling by non-experts, which is not an easy task.

On the other hand, oxytocin is a peptide hormone composed of 9 amino acids and is mainly synthesized in the hypothalamus of the brain. Oxytocin production increases in lactating mothers and is involved in milk ejection, but in recent years it has been clarified that it is produced not only in women but also in men. has been reported to be involved in the formation of attachment/sociality (Non-Patent Document 1).

In addition, oxytocin production-promoting substances have anti-anxiety effects and improve wrinkles and skin flexibility (Patent Document 4). It has been reported that it is effective against injuries and that it promotes barrier formation in the epidermis (Patent Document 5).

However, the relationship between the amount of oxytocin in the body and the feeling of using cosmetics has not been clarified.

JP 2013-95737 A JP 2006-160619 A JP 2014-205628 A JP 2011-98898 A Japanese Patent Publication No. 2002-525337

Lieberwirth and Wang, CURRENT OPINION IN NEUROBIOLOGY, doi: 10.1016/j.conb.2016.05.006, 2016

The present invention relates to providing a method for objectively and efficiently evaluating or searching for a rich-bodied cosmetic or its raw material.

The present inventors found that the amount of oxytocin in the body increases when a rich cosmetic is applied for a certain period of time. Therefore, using the amount of oxytocin as an index, it is possible to evaluate or search for a cosmetic or its raw material that exhibits richness. It is believed that there is.

That is, the present invention relates to the following 1) and 2).
1) A method for evaluating or searching for a rich-bodied cosmetic or raw material thereof, comprising the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) Step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) Step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) Comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value and increasing the amount of oxytocin 2) A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic or its raw material that increases in vivo oxytocin, including the following steps (D) to (F): .
(D) A step of applying a test sample to human skin (E) A step of evaluating the richness felt when applying the test sample (F) Based on the evaluation results, a test sample exhibiting richness is in vivo A process of evaluating or selecting a cosmetic or its raw material that increases oxytocin

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to objectively and efficiently evaluate or search for a cosmetic or its raw material exhibiting richness, and to evaluate or search for a cosmetic or its raw material that increases in vivo oxytocin.

A graph showing changes in salivary oxytocin levels due to continuous application of a rich cosmetic.

In the present invention, "rich" is a sensory evaluation term related to the use of cosmetics, and refers to a rich, thick and heavy feel from the time the cosmetic is applied to the skin until it is blended. , rich feeling, and the like.

Examples of the "cosmetics exhibiting richness" of the present invention include, for example, basic cosmetics such as milky lotions, creams, lotions, gels, and essences; makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, liquid foundations, makeup press powders; and other cleansing cosmetics. Of these, basic cosmetics and make-up cosmetics are preferred, and emulsions, creams, lotions, gels and essences are more preferred.
Moreover, the form thereof is not particularly limited, and may be any of a water-in-oil emulsion composition, an oil-in-water emulsion composition, an aqueous composition, a gel composition, and the like.

The “raw material for a rich-bodied cosmetic” is a raw material for producing a rich-bodied cosmetic, preferably a component (e.g., a synthetic polymer compounds, thickening agents such as thickening polysaccharides, higher alcohols, etc.) and compositions containing these.

As shown in the examples below, 33 female subjects applied a cream that was evaluated as having richness by an expert twice a day in the morning and at night to the entire face after cleansing for 4 weeks continuously. A significant increase in the amount of oxytocin was observed when the amount of oxytocin in saliva was measured. This result indicates that the amount of oxytocin in the living body can be used as an index to evaluate or search for a rich-tasting cosmetic or its raw material. In addition, it is considered that this result indicates that it is possible to evaluate or search for cosmetics or their raw materials that increase oxytocin in the body using richness as an index.

The method for evaluating or searching for the cosmetic material exhibiting richness of the present invention or its raw material is carried out by the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) Step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) Step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) Comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value and increasing the amount of oxytocin A process of evaluating or selecting a test sample that exhibits richness as a cosmetic or raw material thereof

The "human" in step (A) is not limited in sex or age, but is preferably a healthy adult.

In addition, the test sample to be applied to the human skin is not particularly limited as long as it is a substance or composition that can be used as a cosmetic or a raw material thereof. It is a cosmetic or its raw material that is expected to exhibit

The application form of the test sample is application to the skin, and the application period and application frequency can be set as appropriate, preferably once to three times a day, preferably twice a day, Continuous use for 5 weeks immediately after use, preferably 1 to 4 weeks, more preferably 2 to 4 weeks. After application of the test sample, samples should preferably be taken at least 2 hours after the last stimulus.

In the present invention, a biological sample is a sample collected from a subject, and specifically includes blood (including plasma, serum, blood cells (red blood cells, white blood cells)), urine, saliva, lymph, and the like, preferably Examples include saliva, blood (including plasma, serum, and blood cells), and urine, more preferably saliva.

In step (B), the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample is measured.
Oxytocin is a peptide hormone consisting of nine amino acid residues. Oxytocin is known to be synthesized in magnocellular neurons present in the paraventricular nucleus and supraoptic nucleus of the hypothalamus of the cerebrum and released into the blood from the posterior pituitary gland.
The amount of oxytocin is measured using a liquid chromatograph (HPLC), a liquid chromatograph mass spectrometer (LC-MS), a liquid chromatograph tandem mass spectrometer (LC-MS/MS), a gas chromatograph mass spectrometer (GC-MS). ), or immunological techniques such as enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). These measurement conditions are known and can be easily quantified according to a conventional method.
The ELISA method can be performed using, for example, the Oxytocin ELISA kit (Enzo).

Next, the amount of oxytocin is compared with the reference value, and the test sample that increases the amount of oxytocin is evaluated or selected as a rich cosmetic or its raw material (step (C)).
That is, by comparing the amount of oxytocin (eg, the amount of oxytocin per protein in a biological sample) with a reference value, test samples that increase the amount of oxytocin are identified. The reference value is measured when test samples with different degrees of richness are administered (e.g., test sample administration group with lower degree of richness, placebo group (test sample administration group that does not exhibit richness)). Examples include the amount of oxytocin, the amount of oxytocin measured before administration of the test sample, and the predetermined amount of oxytocin in individuals not administered the test sample.
Specifically, between the test sample administration group with a higher degree of richness and the test sample administration group with a lower degree of richness; between the test sample administration group and the placebo group; or before and after the test sample administration , the amount of oxytocin is compared, and if the amount of oxytocin increases due to the application of the test sample or the test sample with a higher degree of richness, based on the amount or rate of increase, or exceeds the predetermined amount of oxytocin Based on that value in some cases, the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin.
For example, if the amount of oxytocin in the test sample administration group is increased by 20% or more, preferably by 50% or more compared to the control group, the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin. can. In addition, when the amount of oxytocin in the test sample-administered group exceeds a predetermined amount of oxytocin (eg, 5 pg per unit protein amount), the test sample can be identified as a sample that increases the amount of oxytocin.
Then, the identified test sample that increases the amount of oxytocin can be evaluated or selected as a rich cosmetic or its raw material.

A cosmetic material selected in this manner and exhibiting richness can be a high-quality cosmetic material that imparts a rich, thick, and heavy feel to the skin from the time of application to the time of blending, and creates a luxurious and rich feeling. . In addition, the selected cosmetic raw material can be used as a raw material for imparting a rich feeling in the production of the rich cosmetic.

In addition, the evaluation or search for a cosmetic or its raw material that raises oxytocin in vivo using body as an index is carried out by the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) A step of applying a test sample to human skin (E) A step of evaluating the richness felt when applying the test sample (F) Based on the evaluation results, a test sample exhibiting richness is in vivo A process of evaluating or selecting a cosmetic or its raw material that increases oxytocin

Here, the application of the test sample to the human skin in (D) is the same as in (A) above.
Evaluation of (E) richness is performed by evaluating the richness felt when the test sample is administered to the subject, for example, <1> no richness, <2> not much richness, <3> neither, < Determination can be made based on criteria such as 4> Slightly rich and <5> Rich.
Based on the evaluation results, the test sample recognized as exhibiting richness can be evaluated or selected as a cosmetic or its raw material that increases oxytocin in the body (F).

The following aspects are further disclosed in this invention regarding embodiment mentioned above.
<1> A method for evaluating or searching for a rich-bodied cosmetic or raw material thereof, comprising the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) Step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) Step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in the biological sample collected from the human (C) Comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value and increasing the amount of oxytocin <2> The method of <1>, wherein the biological sample is blood, serum, plasma, urine or saliva.
<3> A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic or raw material thereof that increases in vivo oxytocin, comprising the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) A step of applying a test sample to human skin (E) A step of evaluating the richness felt when applying the test sample (F) Based on the evaluation results, a test sample exhibiting richness is in vivo <4> The method of any one of <1> to <3>, wherein the cosmetic is selected from creams, lotions, milky lotions and essences.

1. Sensory evaluation of cream (1) Method 1) Preparation of cream Creams P and Q were prepared. Cream P, compared to cream Q, contains a large amount of higher alcohol and paste oil to create a rich feeling, and further increases the amount of sticky agent to increase the rich feeling. The richness of cream P or cream Q was confirmed by the following sensory evaluation test.

2) Overview of sensory evaluation test 33 women aged 30 to 54 applied Cream P or Cream Q to 5 points on both cheeks, nose (nose bridge), and chin (about 0.5 g), and applied it to both hands until fingers no longer slipped. I asked him to apply it to the whole face.

3) Richness Evaluation After applying each cream, an evaluation was made as to whether or not there was a richness during application. The evaluation scale is a five-level score (<1> not applicable, <2> not very applicable, <3> neither, <4> somewhat applicable, <5> applicable), and the average of the score evaluation values for each cream. sought the value.

(2) Result As a result of calculating the average value of the richness evaluation value of each cream, Cream Q was 2.88 and Cream P was 3.61. From this, it became clear that the cream P is a cream with a high richness during application. Sensory evaluation by an expert also confirmed that cream P exhibited a richer taste.

2. Analysis of changes in oxytocin before and after continuous use of the cream (1) Method 1) Outline of the study Targeting 35 women in their 20s and 30s, twice a day in the morning and at night, after daily skin care after washing the face, the cream was applied to the entire face. Application of P or Q (about 0.5 g) was continued for 4 weeks.

2) Saliva Collection Saliva was collected before using Cream P or Q and after 4 weeks of continuous use. After 4 weeks of continuous use, saliva was collected at least 2 hours after the last stimulation. After rinsing the oral cavity with water, all saliva was discharged into a centrifuge tube for 10 minutes. Saliva was immediately frozen in dry ice and stored at -80°C.

3) Oxytocin measurement in saliva The supernatant (1.5 to 3.0 mL) after centrifugation of whole saliva was mixed with an equal volume of 0.1% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) aqueous solution. After centrifugation (3,000 rpm, 30 min), the supernatant was applied to a Sep-pak C18 column (200 mg, 3 cc, Waters) and extracted as follows. 1 mL of 100% acetonitrile (ACN) and then 10 mL of 0.1% TFA aqueous solution (v/v) were passed through a C18 column, after which whole saliva (3. 0-6.0 mL), washed with 10 mL of 0.1% TFA aqueous solution (v/v), then 3 mL of (95% ACN/5% (0.1% TFA aqueous solution)) (v/v) was eluted with ACN in the eluted solution was volatilized with N gas, the remaining aqueous solution was freeze-dried, the freeze-dried product was dissolved in 250 μl of Assay Buffer in the Oxytocin ELISA kit (Enzo), and quantified using the above kit. Using the Bio-rad Protein assay (BIO-RAD), the protein concentration (mg/mL) in saliva before extraction/concentration was quantified based on a calibration curve created with bovine serum albumin, and the amount of oxytocin per unit protein amount was calculated. was calculated, and the rate of change was calculated with the amount before using the cream set to 100.

(3) Results As a result of examining changes in the amount of oxytocin in saliva before and after continuous use of Cream P or Q, a significant increase was observed with continuous use of Cream P, as shown in FIG. On the other hand, Cream Q showed no significant increase. From this, it became clear that oxytocin in the body is increased by continuous use of the rich cream P.

Claims (3)

A method for evaluating or searching for a rich-bodied cosmetic or raw material thereof, comprising the following steps (A) to (C).
(A) Step of applying a test sample to human skin (B) Step of measuring the amount of oxytocin in saliva collected from the human (C) Comparing the amount of oxytocin with a reference value and increasing the amount of oxytocin A process of evaluating or selecting a test sample as a cosmetic or its raw material exhibiting richness A method for evaluating or searching for a cosmetic or raw material thereof that increases oxytocin in vivo, comprising the following steps (D) to (F).
(D) a step of applying a test sample to human skin; (E) a step of evaluating the richness felt when applying the test sample; A process of evaluating or selecting a cosmetic or its raw material that increases oxytocin 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the cosmetics are selected from creams, lotions, emulsions and essences.

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