JP2019077628A - Method for applying straight permanent to hair - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a method for applying straight permanent to hair with less damage to hair, and in which luster of hair is further improved.SOLUTION: The method for applying straight permanent to hair comprises: (i) a step for applying a first pharmaceutical including reducer, alkali agent and water to hair; (ii) after the step (i), spraying steam having a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm, and temperature of 130 to 230°C to hair; and (iii) a step for applying temperature of 160 to 170°C immediately after the spray or while performing spray, for extending the hairs.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a method of applying straight perm to hair.

  In general, a method of applying straight permanent to hair is often used as a method of straightening hair with regular or permanent hair. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a method of applying a straight perm including treating a hair lotion containing natural water to the hair before applying one solution. For example, a method of applying straight perming to hair using a steam iron is known. In these methods, damage to the hair due to the heat of the medicine used and the hair iron is a problem.

JP 2008-54945 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a method of applying straight permanent to hair, which has less damage to the hair and improves the gloss of the hair.

  According to an embodiment, the method of applying straight perming to hair comprises the steps of (i) applying a first agent comprising a reducing agent, an alkaline agent and water to the hair, (ii) after the step (i), 0.26 to 26. Spraying a stream of water vapor having a particle size of 1 nm and having a temperature of 130-230 ° C. onto the hair, and (iii) immediately after or while applying the spraying, to the hair at 160-170 ° C. Including the step of applying temperature and stretching the hair.

  According to the method of applying the straight perm of the present invention, the hair can be made straight while maintaining the gloss of the hair.

It is a flowchart which shows the method of applying the straight perm to the hair of embodiment. It is a perspective view which shows the external appearance of the water vapor generation apparatus used for the method of embodiment. It is a schematic diagram explaining the process of extending the hair in the method of embodiment. It is a schematic diagram which shows the state of the hair which performed the straight permanent of embodiment by a cross section. It is a schematic diagram which shows the state of the hair which performed the conventional straight perm by a cross section.

  Hereinafter, the method for applying straight perming to the hair of the embodiment will be described with reference to FIGS.

  "Straight perming" refers to breaking cystine bonds, salt bonds and hydrogen bonds contained in the hair, forming hair into straight hair, and rejoining the broken cystine bonds, salt bonds and hydrogen bonds. To make straight hair. The method of applying straight perming may be a method of applying hair straightening.

  FIG. 1 is a flow chart showing a method of applying straight perming to hair of the embodiment. Below, each process contained in the method of embodiment shown in FIG. 1 is demonstrated in detail.

  First, in step (S1), a first medicine is applied to the hair. The first drug is a drug for breaking cystine bond, salt bond and hydrogen bond, and includes a reducing agent, an alkaline agent and water. The reducing agent may be, for example, an agent capable of cleaving a cystine bond contained in hair. The alkaline agent may be, for example, an agent capable of cleaving salt bonds contained in the hair, ie, capable of softening the hair. Water, for example, breaks the hydrogen bonds of the hair and causes the hair to swell.

  As a reducing agent, for example, thioglycolates, sodium sulfite, cystine or salts thereof or cysteamine can be used. As the alkali agent, for example, monoethanolamine, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogencarbonate, ammonia, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate or arginine can be used. The first agent may comprise any combination of the reducing agents and alkaline agents listed above. It is preferable to use cysteamine as a reducing agent because it is less irritating to the hair.

  The first agent may contain other components in addition to the reducing agent, the alkali agent and water. Such ingredients are, for example, pH adjusters, hair protectants, moisturizers or solvents.

  The first drug is preferably in the form of a cream. When it is creamy, the first drug remains at the applied position of the hair, and the effect of the first drug is more likely to be exerted. Moreover, the amount of application can be adjusted by the site | part of hair by being creamy. The application of the first drug to the hair can be performed, for example, by applying the first drug to the hair by hand or brush. In order to prevent the first drug from adhering to the scalp and roughening the scalp, it is preferable not to apply the first drug to a portion about 1 cm from the hairline.

  The step of applying the first agent is preferably performed while spraying the entire hair with water vapor. The water vapor preferably has, for example, a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm and a temperature of about 140 to 220.degree. By applying the first drug while spraying such water vapor, the first drug can be efficiently permeated into the hair and the effect of the first drug can be further enhanced. In addition, the penetration of water into the hair further accelerates the cleavage of hydrogen bonds, making it possible to swell the hair. Spraying of water vapor is preferably performed, for example, continuously from before the application of the first agent to after the application. An apparatus for generating such water vapor will be described in step (S4) described later.

  In the step (S2), the hair is allowed to soften in the state where the first medicine is applied. Softening refers to a state in which the salt bonds and hydrogen bonds of the hair are sufficiently cut, for example, the hair has a rubber-like elasticity and is in a state of shrinking when stretched, or in the form of a rod. It can be confirmed on the basis of, for example, that it does not return to its original shape immediately when winding. For example, the hair can be sufficiently softened if it is left for about 10 to 20 minutes with the first drug applied. It is preferable to spray the water vapor used in step (S1) while standing.

  By performing the steps (S1) and (S2) described above, the cystine bond, the salt bond and the hydrogen bond contained in the hair can be broken.

  Next, in step (S3), the hair is washed and then dried. The washing is preferably performed, for example, with water or carbonated water at 30 to 43 ° C. The washing is more preferably performed with carbonated water. Carbonated water may be "carbonated spring". The carbonated concentration of the carbonated water is preferably about 300 to 1000 ppm. When using carbonated water, the temperature is preferably 30 to 35 ° C. At this temperature, more carbonic acid dissolves in water, and thus the above effect is more easily exhibited. The washing with carbonated water can be performed, for example, using a device that generates carbonated water, for example, Torucare (trade name: manufactured by Takara Lemont). By washing with carbonated water, the reducing agent and alkaline agent contained in the first drug adhering to the hair and scalp are neutralized, and at the same time, the first drug is removed from the hair and scalp more It can prevent damage and roughening of the hair and scalp. In addition, dirt adhering to the hair and scalp can be removed more efficiently.

  Drying may be performed, for example, by applying warm air with a drier to hair whose moisture has been wiped off with a towel or the like after washing. Drying is preferably carried out until the outer surface of the hair is free of moisture. When water is applied to the hair in step (S5) to be described later by setting the state in which water does not remain on the outer surface of the hair by drying, the water present on the outside and inside of the hair by the heat of the hair iron instantaneously. It is possible to prevent the phenomenon of evaporating and destroying the cuticle present inside the hair and the inner layer of the hair. Thereby, the dryness and damage of the hair are reduced.

  However, when the drying process loses not only the water outside the hair but also the water inside the hair, the water is hard to penetrate again into the inside of such hair. Therefore, it is preferable to carry out drying while spraying, for example, water vapor described in the step (S1) or the step (S4) described later over the entire hair. Water can thereby be supplied to the inside of the hair to prevent the loss of water inside the hair due to drying. As a result, it is possible to perform the process after the process (S4) later mentioned in the state in which much water was contained inside hair.

  Next, steam is sprayed onto the hair in step (S4). The water vapor has a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm. Also, the water vapor has a temperature of about 130-230 ° C. More preferably, it has a temperature of 145-210 ° C. Such steam is also referred to as "superheated steam" having a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm.

  Such water vapor can be generated, for example, by the water vapor generator 1 shown in FIG. The water vapor generator 1 has a boiler unit 2 and a handpiece unit 3. The water is boiled in the boiler section 2 and the obtained steam is heated, for example, in a high temperature and high pressure environment of about 130 ° C. or more and about 3 atm or more. The heated water vapor is sent to the hand piece 3 by the drive of a fan in the hand piece 3 and is jetted from the spray port 4 of the hand piece 3. The water vapor sent to the handpiece portion 3 may be further heated to about 200 ° C. or more by the handpiece portion 3 by heating means such as heating wires provided in the handpiece portion 3, for example. The water vapor may have the above temperature at the time of spouting from the spray nozzle 4.

  As such a water vapor generating device, for example, Nanopresso EX (trade name: manufactured by Taka Label Mont), Nano Presso PRO (trade name: manufactured by Taka Label Mont), Pulpky (trade name: manufactured by NAOMOTO), or the like can be used.

  When a device as shown in FIG. 2 is used in the step of spraying water vapor onto the hair, the water vapor is sprayed toward the hair by directing the spray nozzle 4 to the hair while the water vapor is spouting from the spray nozzle 4 Can. It is preferable to spray water vapor from the hair at a distance of, for example, 20 to 30 cm from the hair. By spraying 20 to 30 cm apart, it is possible to prevent excessive heat from being applied to the hair. The water vapor may be sprayed toward the hair bundle to be stretched in the step (S5) described later, or may be sprayed over the entire hair.

  In the step (S5), the hair is stretched at a temperature of 160 to 170 ° C. immediately after or while spraying the water vapor in the step (S4).

  The step of stretching the hair may be performed, for example, after spraying water vapor or while spraying water vapor. Also, spraying of water vapor may be performed for each hair bundle that is a part of the hair, or water vapor may be sprayed on the entire hair. The most preferred procedure is to stretch the hair into hair bundles while spraying water vapor over the entire hair. By stretching the hair while spraying water vapor onto the entire hair, the steam is also sprayed to the hair before being stretched and also to the hair after being stretched. As a result, the unstretched hair is kept in a state in which water vapor intrudes inside, and the hair is more easily stretched. In addition, the stretched hair is replenished with water lost due to heat applied during stretching, and can be straightened while maintaining the gloss of the hair.

  Stretching the hair may be performed, for example, using a hair iron. For example, as a hair iron, what comprises two plate parts which can pinch hair can be used, for example. Preferably the hair iron is not a steam iron. Alternatively, it may be a steam iron, but it is preferable to use it without generating steam.

  The step of stretching the hair (S5) is performed by stretching the hair while applying a temperature of 160 to 170 ° C. to the hair. For example, such temperature can be extended to the hair by setting the temperature of the plate portion of the hair iron to be 160 to 170 ° C.

  An example of the steps (S4) and (S5) of stretching the hair bundle using the above-described water vapor generator and hair iron will be described in detail below with reference to FIG. First, in a state where the water vapor 20 is sprayed onto the entire hair 10 by the water vapor generator 1, a part of the hair bundle 11 is separated from the hair 10 by the comb 12 (a). While spraying, a portion of about 13 cm to about 1 cm of the hairline of the hair bundle 11 is sandwiched with the hair iron 5 (b). The hair iron 5 is set such that the temperature of the plate portion 6 is 160 to 170 ° C. Next, the hair iron 5 is slid in the direction of the hair tips 14 of the hair bundle 11 (arrows in FIG. 6C) (c). In the step (c), for example, after sliding the hair iron 5 2 to 3 times to the new hair portion 15 from the hair ridge 13 to about 5 cm of the hair bundle 11, the hair iron 5 is slipped once to the hair tip 14 It is preferable to Next, another unstretched hair bundle is taken to perform steps (a) to (c). By repeating it, all hair can be stretched.

  In the step of stretching the hair (S5), the hair may be sprayed with steam when the hair iron 5 is not applied to the hair. For example, steam may be sprayed on all or part of the hair before extending the hair by the hair iron 5, or after extending the hair of one hair bundle and before extending the next hair bundle, the whole or part of the hair may Water vapor may be sprayed, or after stretching all the hair, water vapor may be sprayed on all or part of the hair. The amount of steam to be sprayed can be controlled throughout the step (S5) by performing such spraying and adjusting the time for spraying steam. For example, when straight perming is applied to hair with a high degree of damage, it is preferable to spray water vapor for a longer time. For example, it is preferable to spray water vapor on the damaged part of the hair for 30 seconds to 1 minute before extending a hair with a high degree of damage with a hair iron. Thereby, it is possible to make straight hair while maintaining luster, even for hair with a high degree of damage.

  Next, in step (S6), a second medicine is applied to the hair. The second agent may be any agent that aids in the oxidation reaction that recombines the cleaved cystine bond. The second agent may be, for example, an agent containing sodium bromate (sodium bromate) or hydrogen peroxide water as an active ingredient. The second agent may contain other components in addition to sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide solution. Such ingredients are, for example, pH adjusters, hair protectants, moisturizers or solvents.

  However, step (S6) may not be performed. This is because the oxygen in the air gradually oxidizes the hair during steps (S3) to (S5), thereby recombining the cystine bonds cleaved in steps (S1) to (S2).

  After the step (S6), the hair is washed and dried in the step (S7). The washing is preferably performed, for example, with water at 30 to 43 ° C. or the above carbonated water. By washing with carbonated water, the second agent adhering to the hair and scalp can be removed more. Drying may be carried out, for example, by applying warm air to the hair, which has been wiped with moisture, with a dryer or the like after washing.

  The method of the embodiment may further include the step of treating the hair with an agent that protects the hair, such as CMC (cell membrane complex), chitosan or keratin, between or before or after each step described above.

  According to the method described above, the hair can be made straight while maintaining the gloss of the hair. The reason is explained below.

  The steam sprayed in step (S3) has a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm. Since the distance between the cuticle and the cuticle present on the hair surface is about 0.5 to 1 nm, the water vapor can enter the interstices of the cuticle, and the end which is the innermost layer of the cuticle It is considered possible to reach the cuticle layer, and the cortex layer and the medura layer present therein. Therefore, by stretching the hair after or while spraying this water vapor, the hair can be sufficiently moistened and kept in a swollen state throughout the process of stretching the hair.

  Also, when this steam is actually sprayed on the hair, the hair does not get wet and remains dry. The reason for this is that water vapor of such particle size penetrates into the inside of the hair as described above and is superheated water vapor, so water vapor that does not penetrate into the water is water vapor at 100 ° C. or higher even if condensation occurs on the hair surface. By continuing to spray, it is possible that the condensed water immediately becomes a gas. Therefore, according to the method of the embodiment, it is possible to stretch hair with no moisture remaining on the hair surface with a hair iron. Therefore, in the process of stretching the hair, the moisture remaining on the outside of the hair is instantaneously evaporated by the heat of the hair iron, and the moisture present inside is also evaporated instantly, and the cuticle and the inner layer of the hair are destroyed. It is possible to prevent the phenomenon of hair drying. In addition, the moisture remaining on the outside of the hair makes the cuticle soft and easily damaged, and prevents the cuticle from being damaged or peeled off or the protein from being denatured by physical stimulation or heat of the hair iron.

  Further, according to the method of the embodiment, the steam having a small particle size penetrates to the inside of the hair and has high thermal energy because the temperature is higher than that of the conventional steam. Even though the temperature of the plate portion of the hair iron is the normal temperature (160 to 170 ° C.) for stretching the hair by the heat energy from the inside of the hair, the time for applying the hair iron to the hair in step (S5) It is thought that it can be reduced. For example, the hair can be sufficiently straightened simply by sliding the hair iron two to three times on the new hair part and once on the other part. As a result, it is possible to further reduce the drying and damage of the hair due to the heat of the hair iron. Also, by stretching the hair by utilizing the heat of water vapor from the inside of the hair and not from the outside of the hair in this way, the epicuticle which is the outermost layer of the cuticle and which is easily thermally denatured is difficult to denature, damage and peeling of the cuticle , Is believed to be reduced.

  As described above, the hair subjected to straight perming by the method of the embodiment of the present invention contains a large amount of water and swells, and the damage and peeling of the cuticle and the inner layer are reduced, for example, as shown in FIG. It is considered to have a cross section 30 approximated to an ellipse as shown in (a), or a cross section 31 approximated to a perfect circle as shown in (b) of FIG. In addition, the cuticles 32 or 33 at the cross sections 30 and 31 respectively cover the entire circumference of the hair surface and are considered to be in a closed state without damage or peeling. Hair in such a state resembles a cross section of virgin hair, that is, straight hair with no treatment such as perms. The light 34 and the light 35 striking the hair shown in (a) and (b) of FIG. 4 do not reflect diffusely and reflect near regular reflection, so that they have a glossy appearance. In the past, straight perm or hair with hair straightening was considered to have a dull appearance, but since the hair treated by the method of the embodiment of the present invention is close to the appearance of virgin hair, it is treated as perm It is natural as if not doing. Moreover, even if the cuticle is originally open or dried, the cross-sectional shape approximates an ellipse or a perfect circle using the method of the present invention, and the hair has a gloss equal to or greater than that of natural hair. It is possible to

  On the other hand, hair that has been sprayed with steam with a steam iron in the process of stretching hair as in the prior art, and hair that has been stretched without hair spraying is, for example, a distorted oval as shown in FIG. It is considered that the cuticle 41 present on the outer surface of the hair is in a state of peeling or opening. Therefore, the light 42 striking the hair is irregularly reflected to give a dull appearance. The following can be considered as the reason for such a cross section.

  The steam generated using the conventional steam iron has a particle size large enough not to enter between the cuticle and the cuticle (for example, the conventional water vapor has a particle size of about 10 to 8000 μm) and the temperature Contains low water particles. When using steam containing water particles of such a particle size, there is a high possibility that excess moisture remains on the outside of the hair when applying a hair iron.

  When the hair iron is used with excess water remaining on the outside of the hair, as described above, the heat of the hair iron causes the water present on the outside and inside of the hair to evaporate instantly, and the hair cuticle and hair inside Destruction of the layer, excessive drying of the entire hair and consequent denaturation of the protein of the hair by the heat of the hair iron tend to occur. In addition, the cuticle, which is soft and easily damaged by excess moisture outside the hair, is likely to be damaged or peeled off by heat or physical stimulation of the hair iron.

  Even in the method of stretching the hair without using water vapor, the heat of the hair iron tends to cause the drying of the hair, the denaturation of the protein of the hair, and the opening of the cuticle. This is likely to cause the hair to lose its luster and strength.

  Due to factors such as the above-mentioned destruction of the cuticle and the inner layer, damage to the cuticle, peeling and opening of the cuticle, drying of the hair, denaturation of protein and the like, the hair subjected to straight perming by the conventional method becomes a cross section as shown in FIG. Conceivable. In addition, damage to the cuticle, peeling, and opening cause the outflow of moisture and nutrients in the hair and adversely affect the appearance, feel, strength and the like of the hair. The above factors also cause carbonization of the hair, discoloration of the hair, phasing, split hair, cut hair and the like.

  Straight permed hair by the method of the present invention has no damage, peeling or opening of the cuticle due to the reasons mentioned above, and it is excellent in appearance and touch, and decolorization of the hair, with pasa, split hair, cut hair etc. are reduced It is done.

  Moreover, according to the method of the embodiment, it is easy to make the hair straight due to the swelling of the hair and the heat energy inside as described above. Therefore, even if the reducing agent contained in the first medicine has a weaker reducing power, such as cysteamine, the hair can be sufficiently straightened. In the past, cysteamine, when used alone as a reducing agent for cleaving cystine bonds, has been considered to be weak in reducing power and insufficient for straightening hair. However, according to the method of the present invention, even the first drug containing cysteamine alone as an active ingredient can be sufficiently straightened. In addition, the amount of the first agent used can be sufficient to straighten the hair. Therefore, healthy hair as well as fine hair due to aging or constitution can be straightened without damaging the hair. In addition, adverse effects such as rough skin on a practitioner such as a cosmetologist can be reduced.

  For the above reasons, according to the method of the embodiment of the present invention, the hair can be made into straight hair while maintaining the gloss of the hair.

<Example>
The effects of straight perm according to the method of the embodiment and conventional straight perm are compared.

(Example)
First, water vapor was generated by Nanopresso PRO (trade name: manufactured by Taka Label Mont), and one agent was applied to the hair while spraying the entire hair. Ekolute straight cosmetic cream N (trade name: made by BSP), Ecolute straight cosmetic cream H (trade name: made by BSP) or HB spruce straight H 1 agent (trade name: made) It was used. Ecolate straight cosmetic cream N and Ecolate straight cosmetic cream H each contain 1 to 5% by weight of ammonium thioglycollate and cysteamine HCl as active ingredients, and less than 1% by weight of sodium carbonate, cysteine HCl and arginine. HB spruce straight H contains 4 to 7% by weight of ammonium thioglycollate, less than 1% by weight of L-cysteine hydrochloride, 2 to 5% by weight of monoethanolamine, and less than 1% by weight of L-arginine as active ingredients . The application was applied to the entire hair except for about 1 cm from the hairline. Then, after applying steam for 10 to 20 minutes, the hair was washed with a 35 ° C. carbonated spring and dried until the hair surface had no moisture.

  Next, water vapor was generated again by the Nanopresso PRO, and the hair was stretched with a hair iron while spraying the entire hair. Spraying was performed by separating the vapor spray port of the nanopresso PRO and the hair by 20 to 30 cm. The stretching step was performed by holding the hairline between the hairliner with a hair iron and sliding the hair iron two to three times with respect to the new hair, and then sliding the hair iron to the end of the hair once. For subjects with a high degree of hair damage, the damaged area of the hair was sprayed with water vapor for 30 seconds to 1 minute before the hair was stretched with a hair iron.

  Next, two agents were applied to the hair. For subjects who used Ecorute Straight Cosmetic Cream N or Ecorute Straight Cosmetic Cream H as 1 agent, Ecorute Straight Cosmetic Cream 2 (trade name: manufactured by BP SP) as 2 agents, HB spruce straight as 1 agent For subjects using agent H1, HB spruce straight H 2 agent (trade name: manufactured by BP SP) was used as two agents. Ecolute straight cosmetic cream 2 contains 5 to 10% by weight of sodium bromate as an active ingredient. The HB spruce straight H 2 agent contains 1 to 2% by weight of hydrogen peroxide water as an active ingredient. After applying the two agents, the hair was washed and dried.

(Comparative example)
In the comparative example, in the step of stretching the hair, the hair was stretched only with the hair iron and no water vapor was sprayed. In this example, when the hair was stretched, the hair could not be sufficiently stretched unless the hair iron was slid three times or more over the entire area from the hairline to the tip of the hair bundle.

  After the method of the comparative example was performed on 20 males and 20 females, the method of the example was performed at intervals of 6 months to 3 years until new hair grew. After that, I was asked to comment on the comparison of the effects of the comparative example and the example. The comparison of the effect was performed between the hair treated by the method of the comparative example and the new hair of the hair treated with the method of the example that has grown after the treatment of the comparative example.

  As a result, in all the subjects, impressions were obtained that the hair was sufficiently stretched according to the method of the example. Moreover, in all test subjects, impressions were obtained that the finish was better in the example than in the comparative example. Furthermore, the following impression was specifically reported about the method of the Example. "It does not seem to do a straight perm with a finish that is more natural than the comparative example" (20 women), "It is much moisturized than the hair straightening of the comparative example, and it is easier to take care of the hair (40 females), "comparative example is finish like harigane, but the example is a very natural finish" (40 females), "in the method of the example, the ring of an angel (by the gloss of the hair) Circular light seen on the head is made, and it does not seem to be that of hair with hair straightening "(30 women)," The method of the embodiment is easy to care because it has a natural finish (30 males), "The hair was complex, but it is nice to have a natural and glossy finish according to the method of the embodiment" (20 women), "The hair of the comparative example is smooth. In the method of the embodiment, the feel is very And moist, there is no at all flaky feeling "(30 cars woman).

  Therefore, according to the method of applying straight perming to the hair of the embodiment of the present invention, straightening the hair in a more natural state, for example, keeping the hair moist and keeping it dry or not drying, may be straight hair It became clear that it was possible.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Water vapor generation apparatus 5 ... Hair iron 10 ... Hair 11 ... Hair bundle 13 ... Hairline 14 ... Hair tip 15 ... New hair part 20 ... Water vapor

Claims (3)

(I) applying to the hair a first agent comprising a reducing agent, an alkaline agent and water;
(Ii) spraying, towards the hair, steam having a particle size of 0.26 to 1 nm and having a temperature of 130 to 230 ° C. after the step (i), and (iii) of the spraying A method of straightening the hair, including the step of applying the temperature of 160 to 170 ° C. to the hair immediately or while performing the spraying.   The method according to claim 1, comprising washing the hair between the step (i) and the step (ii) and then drying the hair.   The method according to claim 1, wherein the steam spray is sprayed such that the steam covers the whole of the hair.

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