JP2011037778A - Hair repairing method - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for repairing hair suffering from accumulated damage, etc., which can give firm permanent waves to such hair. <P>SOLUTION: The method is directed to repair hair so as to be suitable for permanent waves, the method including a step in which a first agent for repairing hair containing an anionic polymer is applied to the hair; a step in which a second agent for repairing hair containing a cationic polymer is applied to the hair to which the first agent for repairing hair has been applied; a step in which a first agent for permanent waves containing a reducing agent and an alkali agent is applied to the hair; a step in which the hair to which the first agent for permanent waves has been applied is wound around rods; and a step in which a second agent for permanent waves containing an oxidizing agent is applied to the hair wound around the rods. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a technique for repairing damaged hair.

  In recent years, hair colors and perms have been repeatedly applied in order to realize light and moving hair styles, but repeated hair colors and perms are caused by peeling of the hair skin and exposing the furry inside. In addition, the interstitial substance flows out inside the hair, and the hair becomes faint, so-called porous hair.

  When such a state is reached, damage to the hair progresses even with daily small hair treatment such as hair washing, drying, and hair styling, and problems such as dryness, wrinkle, and breakage of the set occur. Furthermore, in such a faint state of hair, the core itself that forms the wave itself is weak even when applying the permanent, so that the desired wave is difficult to be applied and the treated wave does not continue.

In this regard, in Patent Document 1, in a three-part laid hair cosmetic comprising the first agent, the second agent, and the third agent, the first agent contains carboxymethyldextran sodium and a moisturizing component, and the second agent is cationic. Contains surfactant, cationic silicone and perfluoropolyether derivative, and third agent is cationic surfactant, cationic silicone, 1,1'-methylene-bis (4-isocyanatocyclohexane) polypropylene glycol A three-component hair cosmetic containing a copolymer and a perfluoropolyether derivative, and a hair treatment method in which each hair agent is allowed to warm for a certain time each time it is applied have been proposed.
Further, in Patent Document 2, in a two-component hair cosmetic comprising a first agent and a second agent, the first agent contains sodium carboxymethyldextran, the second agent is a cationic surfactant, a cationic polymer, and 1st or 2 or more types selected from the group consisting of cationic silicones, and further containing 1,1′-methylene-bis (4-isocyanatocyclohexane) / polypropylene glycol copolymer as necessary, the first agent A hair treatment method is proposed in which the second agent is applied after applying, and left for a certain period of time, and then washed away.
Moreover, in patent document 3, the hair treatment comprised from the 1st agent containing anionic polysaccharide and a basic amino acid, and the 2nd agent containing a cationic active agent and an acidic amino acid, and the 1st agent It has been proposed to use the hair in the order of the second agent.
In Patent Document 4, the hair treatment is composed of a first agent and a second agent, the first agent contains an anionic polymer, the second agent contains a cationic substance and a hair treatment compounding agent, After the first agent is applied to the hair, the second agent is applied to the hair to react the anionic polymer contained in the first agent with the cationic substance contained in the second agent on the hair. A hair treatment that forms a complex is proposed.
Patent Document 5 discloses that in the hair treatment agent for treating hair in the order of the first agent and the second agent, the first agent contains a protein hydrolyzate having an average molecular weight of 100,000 or more, and the second agent contains A two-component hair treatment composition characterized by containing a cationic surfactant and / or a cationic polymer compound has been proposed.

JP 2006-248985 A JP 2001-192325 A JP 2001-48751 A JP-A-10-87441 Japanese Patent No. 3542878

According to the technology described in the above-mentioned patent document, the hair can be given a certain degree of moist feeling, flexibility, slipperiness, etc. It cannot be said that there is a sufficient effect.
In particular, when applying a permanent to the hair, the gap between the cortex layers may spread due to the wave, and the cuticle may peel off. Also, if the gap cannot be filled well, the perm itself will not work.

  Therefore, the present invention provides a method for repairing hair in which damage has accumulated, and further provides a method for repairing hair that can give a firm wave shape to such hair. Objective.

  In order to achieve the above object, a permanent wave treatment method according to the present invention is a method for repairing hair suitable for permanent wave, wherein the hair includes a permanent wave containing a reducing agent and an alkaline agent. The step of applying the first agent, the step of winding the hair around the rod, the step of applying the first agent for hair repair containing an anionic polymer to the hair, and the first agent for repairing the hair are applied A step of applying a second agent for repairing hair containing a cationic polymer to the treated hair, and a step of applying a second agent of permanent wave containing an oxidizing agent to the hair wound around the rod. It is characterized by that.

  In addition, before the step of applying the second permanent wave agent, the step of removing the rod from the hair and winding the hair around the second rod, which is thicker than the rod and suitable for the desired wave shape, is provided. The rod used in the step of winding the hair coated with the permanent wave first agent around the rod is thinner than the second rod, and the step of applying the permanent wave second agent is applied to the second rod. It is good also as what applies the permanent wave 2nd agent containing an oxidizing agent to the wound hair.

  Further, hydrolyzed keratin may be used as the anionic polymer, and chito film or cationized cellulose may be used as the cationic polymer.

  Moreover, it is good also as a thing containing hyaluronic acid and sericin in the said 1st agent for hair repair.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to repair hair with accumulated damage and to give a firm wave shape to such hair.

Hereinafter, an embodiment of a permanent processing method according to the present invention will be described in detail.
In a series of processing of the permanent processing method according to the present embodiment, the following processing steps are sequentially performed.
Step 1. Hair washing step 2. Repair of hair Step 3. Application of permanent wave first agent Step 4. Winding with the first rod Step 5 Step 6 Removal of first rod Step 7. Acid rinse / rinse (optional)
Step 8. Rewinding with the second rod Step 9. Applying permanent wave second agent Step 10. Step 11. Removal of second rod Step 12. Rinse and dry

<Step 1. Hair washing>
First, by washing the hair, dirt and hair dressing attached to the hair are washed away and appropriate moisture is absorbed by the hair. Thereby, effective application | coating and penetration | infiltration of each chemical | medical agent in a next process are attained.
Also, at this stage where moisture penetrates into the hair, the hydrogen bonds that form side chains between the oxygen and hydrogen of the carboxyl groups between the polypeptide backbones are broken. In addition, the hydrogen bond is cut by water used as a solvent for the permanent wave first agent even when the hair is not washed.

<Step 2. Repair of hair>
Next, hair is repaired in order to effectively form a permanent wave. In this process, a protein-like substance or the like is replenished and embedded in a gap formed by damage to the hair. More specifically, by sequentially applying a first agent for repairing hair containing an anionic polymer as a main component and a second agent for repairing hair containing a cationic polymer as a main component, the surface of the hair and A water-insoluble polyion complex (PIC) composed of the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer is generated in the gap formed inside. As a result, it is possible to compensate for the gloss, elasticity, and elasticity of the hair and to form a strong core for forming a permanent wave.

The first agent for repairing hair contains an anionic polymer as a main component. Examples of the anionic polymer include hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed keratin ethyl, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed collagen ethyl, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed yeast protein, hydrolyzed wheat, hydrolyzed conchiolin, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed silk Examples include ethyl, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, and soy protein hydrolyzate. In this embodiment, hydrolyzed keratin is particularly used.
Further, the hydrolyzed keratin used in the present embodiment may be either α-keratose (crystalline) or γ-keratose (noncrystalline).

Moreover, you may contain an anionic surfactant as a component which supplements the anionic property of the 1st agent for hair repair. Examples of the anionic surfactant include polyoxyethylene lauryl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene sulfosuccinate lauryl disodium, polyoxyethylene coconut oil fatty acid sodium monoethanolamide sodium sulfate solution, coconut oil fatty acid methylalanine sodium solution, and coconut oil fatty acid. Examples include methyl taurine sodium, N-coconut oil fatty acid acyl-L-glutamic acid triethanolamine, and coconut oil fatty acid hydrolyzed collagen sodium solution.
Furthermore, the first agent for repairing hair may additionally contain hyaluronic acid, sericin, and salts thereof.

  Hydrolyzed keratin applied to the hair as the first agent for repairing hair enters a damaged portion of the hair surface or a gap inside the hair.

Following this, a second agent for repairing hair is applied to the hair.
The second agent for repairing hair contains a cationic polymer as a main component. Examples of the cationic polymer include vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylate copolymer, cationized cellulose, cationic cellulose derivative, cationic polysaccharide, chitosan (chitofilm), etc. In particular, cationized cellulose and chitosan are used.

  Moreover, you may contain a cationic surfactant as a component which supplements the cationic property of the 2nd agent for hair repair. Examples of cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium salts such as lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, and these quaternary ammonium salts as alkylpyridinium salts or amine salts. Something changed.

After the first hair repairing agent is applied to the hair, the second hair repairing agent is applied to the hair, so that the cationic polymer and the anionic polymer contained in each agent are combined, and the polyion complex (PIC) becomes the hair. It is embedded in the surface and internal gaps.
Thereby, a strong core for forming a permanent wave is formed inside the hair.

<Step 3. Application of permanent wave first agent>
Apply the permanent wave first agent evenly to the repaired hair.
This permanent wave first agent includes thioglycolic acid salts such as thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate and thiolactic acid, cysteine acid salts such as cysteine and cysteine hydrochloride, cysteine derivatives such as cysteamine and N-acetylcysteine, thiol Reducing agents such as glyceryl alkyl ether, mercaptoalkylamide, sulfite, and bisulfite are included.
Under the reducing action of this permanent wave first agent, cystine in hair binds to a hydrogen atom to become two cysteine residues, and the disulfide bond in hair is cleaved.

  The permanent wave first agent contains an alkaline agent. Examples of the alkali agent include ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-methyl-2-amino-1-propanol, propanediamine-1,3, alkali or ammonium carbon salt or bicarbonate. Sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate, organic carbonates such as guanidine carbonate, or alkali hydroxides. In the present embodiment, a highly volatile alkali agent is particularly preferably used.

In this regard, between adjacent polypeptide main chains, the amino group nitrogen of each main chain is divided into plus and the oxygen of the carboxyl group is divided into minus, and the plus and minus attract each other to form an ionic bond. However, this binding force is maximized when the hair is in the isoelectric band (pH 4.5 to 5.5), and keratin is in the most stable state. And the said ionic bond is cut | disconnected by the alkaline component contained in the permanent wave 1st agent.
The permanent wave first agent may be in any state such as liquid, gel, cream, etc., and this point is not particularly limited.

<Step 4. Winding with the first rod>
Next, the hair is wound around the first rod for permanent wave. The first rod on the substantially cylinder used for winding the hair is the second rod used for forming a desired permanent wave shape in a later step. This rod has a diameter smaller than that of the rod.
By using a rod with such a small diameter, tension is applied to the hair. As a result, combined with physical tension, the disulfide bond in the hair is easily cleaved, and the disulfide bond can be cleaved effectively in a short time.
In addition, by winding the hair around the first rod, a gap formed by damage caused by daily life or permanent damage is opened or deformed in the cuticle on the hair surface or the cortex layer inside. As a result, the polyion complex packed in the gap in the hair in step 2 is more firmly penetrated into the gap and is effective in forming a permanent wave.

<Step 5. Leaving>
After the above steps, about 15 minutes are allowed to wait for the progress of the cleavage reaction of the disulfide bond in the hair by the permanent wave first agent.
At this time, infrared rays having a wavelength band of about 2 μm to 4 μm are preferably irradiated. Thereby, thermal energy is given to the drug component and moisture in the hair, and the reaction is activated. As a result, the drug penetrates uniformly into the hair.
By leaving the hair in this step, it is possible to prevent the alkaline agent from volatilizing gradually and prevent the hair from being swollen by alkali and damaged.

<Step 6. Removal of the first rod>
When the permanent wave first agent has penetrated into the hair and the disulfide bonds in the hair have been sufficiently cleaved, the first rod is removed from the hair for the step 7 of removing the components of the permanent wave first agent from the hair. .

<Step 7. Acid rinse (optional) and rinse>
The permanent wave first agent is removed from the hair. The removal is performed, for example, by applying an acidic rinse to neutralize the alkali component. The hair can also be removed by rinsing with running water or the like.

<Step 8. Rewinding with the second rod>
Next, the hair is wound around the second rod for permanent wave. This second rod is a rod having a diameter larger than that of the first rod used in the previous step, and has a diameter suitable for a desired wave.
A final permanent wave is formed with the hair wound around the second rod, and a desired wave is obtained.
The second rod may be an electrothermal rod that is heated by receiving power from an external power source. In this case, the hair is affected by the heat and the permanent is made more firm. Waves are applied.

<Step 9. Application of Permanent Wave Second Agent>
In this process, from the state in which the hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds that form the side chains between the polypeptide main chains inside the hair are recombined in a shape in which the second rod is wound, By applying the agent, the disulfide bond is reformed and the final shaping of the wave is achieved.

This permanent wave second agent contains as main components oxidants such as sodium bromate (NaBrO ₃ ), potassium bromate (KBrO ₃ ), sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide (H ₂ O ₂ ), etc. It is.
Due to the oxidizing action of this permanent wave second agent, the cysteine residue is oxidized and a cleaved disulfide bond can be re-formed.

<Step 10. Leaving>
After the above steps, a period of about 10 minutes is allowed to wait for the re-formation of disulfide bonds in the hair by the permanent wave second agent.
By leaving the hair in this step, the alkaline component remaining in the hair is completely removed, and re-formation of ionic bonds forming side chains between the polypeptide main chains in the hair is promoted. In addition, when water in the hair evaporates, recombination of hydrogen bonds that similarly form side chains also proceeds.

<Step 11. Removal of the second rod>
When the permanent wave is formed by the above steps, the second rod is removed.

<Step 12. Rinse and dry>
Finally, the hair is rinsed to remove excess chemicals attached to the hair and then dried to complete the permanent.

According to the above embodiment, the ionic bond or hydrogen bond formed as the side chain between the polypeptide main chains is re-bonded from a state in which the ionic bond or hydrogen bond is bonded in a desired wave shape, and thus it can be dried. The wave shape in the dry state can be maintained for a long time without becoming loose.
In addition, a firm permanent wave can be imparted to hair that has accumulated damage, peeled off the cuticle, and formed gaps in the cortex layer.
Furthermore, in the first permanent wave agent, by using a volatile alkaline agent, it volatilizes over time without intentionally removing the alkali component, so that the treatment process can be simplified.

In the present embodiment, the two types of rods, the first rod and the second rod, are used, but not limited to this, only one type of rod suitable for the desired permanent shape is used as the first rod. It is also possible not to rewind the two rods. In this case, it consists of the following steps 1-10.
Step 1. Hair washing step 2. Repair of hair Step 3. Application of permanent wave first agent Step 4. Winding with the first rod Step 5 Step 6 Acid rinse (optional)
Step 7. Application of second permanent wave agent Step 8. 8. Removal of the first rod Rinse / Drying Also, the gap between the hairs can be widened by the rod and the polyion complex can be firmly filled in the gap. As a result, the hair can be firm and firm, and a firm permanent can be applied.
In any of the leaving steps in the above-described embodiment, the hair may be irradiated with infrared rays having a wavelength band of about 2 μm to 4 μm. Thereby, thermal energy is given to the drug component and moisture in the hair, and the reaction is activated. As a result, the drug penetrates uniformly into the hair.

  In the present embodiment, known additives can be added to various drugs as necessary. Examples of additives include humectants, fats and oils, lanolins, higher alcohols, fluorine compounds, silicones, surfactants (cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants) , Amphoteric surfactants), thickening / gelling agents, preservatives, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents / acids / alkalis, solvents, anti-inflammatory agents, fragrances, pigments, etc. These can be appropriately blended.

  Examples of these additives include moisturizing agents such as polyhydric alcohols such as 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and glycerin, collagen, gelatin, elastin, collagen degrading peptide, elastin degrading peptide, keratin degrading peptide, Proteins and peptides such as silk proteolytic peptide, soybean proteolytic peptide, wheat proteolytic peptide, casein degrading peptide and derivatives thereof, amino acids such as arginine, serine, glycine, glutamic acid, and trimethylglycine, aloe extract, hamelis water, Examples include plant extract components such as loofah water, chamomile extract, licorice extract, sodium hyaluronate, citrate, chondroitin sulfate, sodium lactate, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate and the like.

  As fats and oils, castor oil, palm oil, palm oil, palm shell oil, safflower oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, evening primrose oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, hazelnut oil, rosehip oil, meadow foam oil, Tea tree oil, peppermint oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, liquid shea fat, jojoba oil and other vegetable oils, liquid paraffin, squalane, light liquid paraffin, ceresin, Paraffin wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, hydrocarbons such as petroleum jelly, esters such as di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice wax, whale wax, shellac, cotton wax, Waxes such as owl and hydrogenated jojoba oil It is.

  Examples of lanolins include lanolins such as liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin and adsorption-purified lanolin. As higher alcohols, linear alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, monostearyl glycerin ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin Examples thereof include branched chain alcohols such as alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.

  Examples of the fluorine compound include fluorine compound derivatives such as perfluoropolyether, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxydifluorohydroxyethyl, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxydifluoromethyl distearylamide, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxydifluoroethyl polyethylene glycol phosphate, and the like. Can be mentioned.

  Examples of silicones include low-viscosity dimethylpolysiloxane, high-viscosity dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic dimethylsiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, silicone resin, silicone rubber, cation-modified polysiloxane, polyether Examples thereof include modified polysiloxane and fluorine-modified polysiloxane.

  Examples of cationic surfactants include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, ethyl lanolin sulfate fatty acid aminopropylethyldimethylammonium, and the like.

  Anionic surfactants include fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfate salts, polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfate salts, polyoxyethylene fatty amine sulfate salts, acyl N-methyl taurate salts, alkyl ether phosphate ester salts, N-acyl amino acids. Examples include salts.

  Nonionic surfactants include polyhydric alcohol fatty acid partial esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, alkyldimethylamine oxides, alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglycosides, and the like.

  Examples of amphoteric surfactants include alkyldimethylaminoacetic acid betaines, alkylamidodimethylaminoacetic acid betaines, 2-alkyl-N-carboxy-N-hydroxyimidazolinium betaines, and the like.

  Examples of thickening and gelling agents include guar gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, alginic acid, tragacanth gum, starch derivatives, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, acrylic resin alkanolamine liquid, etc. Can be mentioned.

  Examples of the preservative include p-hydroxybenzoates, benzoates, phenoxyethanol, quaternary ammonium salts and the like.

  Examples of chelating agents include edetates, phosphonic acids, polyamino acids and the like. Examples of pH adjusters / acids / alkalis include phosphoric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, carbonic acid, fumaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, succinic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid or salts thereof, sodium hydroxide, water Examples thereof include potassium oxide, disodium hydrogen phosphate, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, arginine, aqueous ammonia, aminomethylpropanol, and salts thereof.

  Examples of the solvents include water, ethanol and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, as well as lower alcohols such as 2-propanol. Examples of the anti-inflammatory agents include licorice derivatives such as glycyrrhizic acid and carbenoxolone disodium, allantoin, guaiazulene, aloe, α-bisabolol and the like.

Claims (4)

A method for repairing hair suitable for permanent waves,
Applying a first hair repair agent containing an anionic polymer to the hair;
Applying a second hair repair agent containing a cationic polymer to the hair to which the first hair repair agent is applied;
Applying a permanent wave first agent containing a reducing agent and an alkaline agent to the hair;
Winding the hair coated with the permanent wave first agent around the rod;
A step of applying a permanent wave second agent containing an oxidizing agent to the hair wound around the rod,
A method of repairing hair characterized by the above. Before the step of applying the permanent wave second agent, the step of removing the rod from the hair, winding the hair around the second rod that is thicker than the rod and suitable for the desired wave shape,
The rod used in the process of winding the hair coated with the permanent wave first agent around the rod is thinner than the second rod,
The step of applying the permanent wave second agent applies the permanent wave second agent containing an oxidizing agent to the hair wound around the second rod.
The method for repairing hair according to claim 1. Hydrolyzed keratin is used as the anionic polymer,
Chitofilm or cationized cellulose is used as the cationic polymer.
The method for repairing hair according to claim 1 or 2. The first hair repair agent contains hyaluronic acid and sericin.
The method for repairing hair according to any one of claims 1 to 3.