JP2019019070A - Method for producing powder cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a method for producing powder cosmetics, which is a wet production method for powder cosmetics, which allows the powder to fully exhibit its original functions.SOLUTION: In slurry preparation, a high-pressure injection mixer is used which mixes powder and an oily component by fluidizing a solvent containing the powder and the oily component, as a high-pressure fluid, inside a chamber.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 2

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a powder cosmetic.

Powder cosmetics are manufactured by mixing powder and oily ingredients, etc., crushing the mixture with a pulverizer or other pulverizer, filling it into a metal or resin inner dish, or further dry press molding A method referred to as a dry process for carrying out the process has been adopted and manufactured.
On the other hand, according to the dry process, characteristics such as feeling of use are not sufficient, so for the purpose of improving the characteristics, a slurry is prepared by adding powder and an oil component to a volatile solvent, and the slurry is put in a container in the state of the slurry. There has been proposed a method called a wet manufacturing method in which a solvent is removed by vacuum suction or the like and the powder is solidified.

  As described above, the dry process leaves room for improvement in the feeling of use in application to the skin, and the wet process has room for improvement because the solid cosmetic becomes too hard and can be taken into a puff. Also in the method, further improvement was required to obtain a satisfactory solid cosmetic.

With regard to the above problems, paying attention to the process of drying the slurry in the wet manufacturing method, the slurry is made into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, and the slurry is dried by sending a dry gas to the fine droplets. And a method for obtaining a powder cosmetic excellent in usability (see Patent Document 1).
In addition, in the wet manufacturing method, in order to obtain a powder solid cosmetic with excellent usability and impact resistance, the powder component surface is made uniform with an oily component by mixing with a medium stirring mill when preparing the slurry. A method of coating is disclosed (see Patent Document 2).

JP 2007-055990 A JP 2001-213722 A

As described in Patent Documents 1 and 2, attempts have been studied to achieve both usability when applied to the skin in a wet manufacturing method, and usability such as removal to puffs and drop strength.
On the other hand, in the case of a wet manufacturing method, mechanical shearing such as a medium agitation mill as described in Patent Document 2 is necessary for the purpose of improving dispersibility and sufficiently performing surface treatment of powder in the preparation of slurry. A method of mixing using force is employed.

However, when a slurry is prepared using mechanical shearing force, a strong impact force is applied to the powder, so that the powder is excessively crushed and the particle size becomes too small, and the powder is scratched. The present inventor has conceived that there is a problem that the performance inherent to the powder is impaired due to the reduction in glitter and the effect expected as a powder cosmetic is not sufficiently exhibited.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a powder cosmetic that solves the above problems, exhibits the performance inherent to the powder, and sufficiently obtains the expected effects.

In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have a slurry preparation means that has sufficient mixing and stirring power in slurry preparation when producing a powder cosmetic, and that reduces damage to the powder. It was investigated. The inventors have conceived that sufficient stirring and mixing can be achieved by using a specific high-pressure fluid mixer, and the present invention has been completed.

The present invention includes the following.
A method for producing a powder cosmetic, comprising: a slurry preparation step of preparing a slurry by mixing at least a powder and an oily component in a solvent; and a drying step of drying the prepared slurry to obtain a powder cosmetic. Because
In the slurry preparation step, a powder cosmetic manufacturing method using a high-pressure fluid mixer that mixes powder and oil-based components by flowing the inside of the chamber using a solvent containing powder and oil-based components as a high-pressure fluid.

  The high-pressure fluid mixer may be configured to discharge the solvent containing the powder and the oil component as a high-pressure fluid and mix the powder and the oil component by causing the high-pressure fluid to collide obliquely. Further, the high-pressure fluid mixer may be configured to mix powder and oily components by generating cavitation in the chamber.

Further, the powder may be in a form comprising at least a particle size of two or more different powders, also the average particle diameter D ₅₀ of less 5μm fine, having an average particle diameter D ₅₀ of greater than 20μm structure It may be in a form containing at least a pigment.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to prepare a slurry without using a medium like a medium stirring mill, that is, without a medium, so that a strong impact force is not added to the powder contained in the powder cosmetic, Excessive pulverization of the powder does not occur. Therefore, it is possible to provide a powder cosmetic that sufficiently exhibits the effects expected of the powder cosmetic without impairing the inherent performance of the powder.

It is a schematic diagram which shows one Embodiment of a high pressure fluid mixer. It is a schematic diagram which shows one Embodiment of a high pressure fluid mixer.

  Hereinafter, although the manufacturing method of the powder cosmetics which are embodiment of this invention is demonstrated, the technical scope of this invention is not limited only to the following specific embodiment.

  The method for producing a powder cosmetic according to the present embodiment includes a slurry preparation step of preparing a slurry by mixing at least a powder and an oil component in a solvent, and drying the prepared slurry to obtain a powder cosmetic. Obtaining a drying step. Moreover, you may have further the shaping | molding process filled with the said powder cosmetics in a type | mold, and shape | molded.

<Slurry preparation process>
The slurry preparation step is a step of preparing a slurry by mixing at least a powder and an oil component in a solvent. In preparing the slurry, components other than the powder and oil component necessary for preparing the cosmetic can be added as appropriate.

In the present embodiment, in the slurry preparation step, a high-pressure fluid mixer that mixes the powder and the oil component by causing the solvent containing the powder and the oil component to flow in the high-pressure fluid chamber is used.
Conventionally, slurry preparation in the production of powder cosmetics has been performed by a method using a mechanical shearing force such as a medium stirring mill in order to uniformly and sufficiently coat the powder surface with an oil component. However, it was found that because the strong impact force is applied to the powder, the powder is damaged or excessively pulverized, resulting in a situation where the expected effect as a powder cosmetic is not fully exhibited. . Therefore, the present inventors have used a solvent containing the powder and the oil component as a high-pressure mixer as a mixer in which the powder in the slurry is not excessively pulverized and the powder and the oil component in the slurry are sufficiently mixed. It has been found that a high-pressure fluid mixer that flows in a fluid chamber, that is, a medialess mixer, is used.

The high-pressure fluid mixer used in this embodiment will be described with reference to FIGS. 1 and 2.
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an embodiment of a high-pressure fluid mixer. The high-pressure fluid mixer shown in FIG. 1 is a mixer that discharges a solvent containing powder and an oily component as a high-pressure fluid and mixes the high-pressure fluids by causing them to collide obliquely.
The high-pressure jet mixer 10 discharges the chamber 1 that mixes the powder and the oil component, the supply ports 2a and 2b that supply the solvent containing the powder and the oil component as a high-pressure fluid into the chamber, and the mixed slurry. A slurry discharge port 4 is provided.
Supply ports 2 a and 2 b are provided at substantially the same height on opposite side surfaces of chamber 1. The flow path extending from the supply ports 2a and 2b to the opposite side of the center of the chamber is inclined, and the slurry discharge direction from the supply port is directed upward from the horizontal.

The solvent containing the powder and the oil component is pressurized by a pressurizer (not shown) and sent as a high-pressure fluid to a flow path connected to the supply ports 2a and 2b. When the high-pressure fluid is supplied into the chamber from the supply port, the high-pressure fluid is sufficiently accelerated, and the high-pressure fluid discharged from the opposing supply ports 2 a and 2 b collides obliquely at the collision point 3 in the substantially central portion of the chamber 1. To do. In addition, when the flow path extending from the supply ports 2a and 2b to the opposite side to the center side of the chamber is not inclined and is substantially horizontal, the oblique collision does not occur. Since the high-pressure fluid collides at a high speed, the stirring / mixing effect due to the collision can be sufficiently expected.
In FIG. 1, there are two supply ports 2a and 2b. However, if the supply ports are provided at substantially the same height, there are four supply ports even if there are three. Alternatively, a larger number of supply ports may be provided depending on the shape of the chamber.

  The powder and oil component that collided at the collision point 3 in the chamber 1 are discharged from the slurry discharge port 4. In the collision between the powders present in the solvent, the impact force to the powder is smaller than when the powder is directly given mechanical shearing force from the medium, and by colliding the high-pressure fluid at high speed, The droplets of the oil component in the slurry become flat, and it becomes possible to coat many powders. In addition, according to the oblique collision, the impact force to the powder is smaller than the frontal collision.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an embodiment of a high-pressure fluid mixer. The high-pressure fluid mixer shown in FIG. 2 is a mixer that mixes powder and oil components by generating cavitation in the chamber.
The high-pressure jet mixer 20 is a chamber 11 for mixing powder and oil components, a supply port 12 for supplying a solvent containing the powder and oil components into the chamber as a high-pressure fluid, and extending from the supply port into the chamber. An orifice 12a for generating the cavitation 13 and a slurry discharge port 14 for discharging the mixed slurry are provided.

The solvent containing the powder and the oil component is pressurized by a pressurizer (not shown) and sent to a flow path connected to the supply port 12 as a high-pressure fluid. The supply port 12 includes an orifice 12a extending from the supply port into the chamber. Since the diameter of the orifice is designed to be very small, and the fluid pressurized to a high pressure inside the orifice is supplied at a high speed, cavitation 13 is generated. The powder and the oil component are mixed by the impact generated by the cavitation 13 bursting.
The fluid in which the powder and the oil component are mixed is discharged from the slurry discharge port 14 due to the impact generated by the cavitation 13 bursting.
By generating cavitation in the solvent, the impact force on the powder is small compared to mixing using media by mixing the powder and oily components, and high-pressure fluid can flow at high speed. The droplets of the oil component in the slurry become flat, and it becomes possible to coat many powders.

Examples of the high-pressure fluid mixer described above include Nanovaita (manufactured by Yoshida Kikai Kogyo Co., Ltd.), nano3000 (manufactured by Migrain Co., Ltd.), Starburst (manufactured by Sugino Machine Co., Ltd.) and the like.
High pressure means, for example, that the pressure applied by the pressure intensifier is larger than atmospheric pressure, preferably 10 MPa or more, and more preferably 30 MPa or more.

Hereinafter, the powder, oil component and the like contained in the slurry in the slurry preparation step will be described. 1) Powder The powder that can be used in the present embodiment is a general term for organic or inorganic solids that do not dissolve in cosmetic raw materials such as water, fats and oils, surfactants, alcohols, and silicones.
Specific examples of the powder include kaolin, talc, mica, sericite, titanium mica, laminated resin pieces (glitter), borosilicate Ca / Al, titanium sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, Red No. 102, Red No. 226, Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, silica, alumina, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, methylsiloxane network polymer, cross-linked methylpolysiloxane resin, alkyl acrylate resins, nylon Examples thereof include silk, cellulose, and composite materials thereof.
The shape of the powder may be spherical, indeterminate, porous, hollow, fibrous, plate-like, or massive. Furthermore, the surface may be subjected to generally known surface treatments such as a silicone coating treatment, a metal soap coating treatment, and an acylamino acid salt coating treatment.

Only one type of powder may be blended in the slurry, or two or more types may be blended in combination.
In the present embodiment, the content of the powder is usually 70% by mass or more in the powder cosmetic, preferably 75% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, and 85% by mass or more. More preferably. Moreover, it is 98 mass% or less normally, and it is preferable that it is 95 mass% or less.

In the slurry preparation in the present embodiment, compared with a mixer using a medium such as a medium stirring mill, since the impact force that the powder receives is small, it is effective when the extender pigment contains a powder having a large particle size. is there. When the powder having an average particle diameter (D ₅₀ ) of 20 μm or more is contained, when the powder having an average particle diameter (D ₅₀ ) of 25 μm or more is contained, the powder having an average particle diameter (D ₅₀ ) of 30 μm or more is used. When it contains, it is applied preferably.
Moreover, since the impact force which a powder receives is small, the damage which a powder receives is small, and it is effective when it contains the powder which is easy to break or is damaged. In the case of containing glittering powder, it is preferably applied to the case of containing flaky powder.
It is also effective when two or more kinds of powders having different particle diameters, such as a powder having a large particle diameter and a fine particle powder are included.
Examples of the fine particle powder include fine particle titanium oxide and fine particle zinc oxide. Here, the fine particle powder is referred to as a fine particle having an average particle diameter (D ₅₀ ) of 10 μm or less, may be 5 μm or less, may be 1 μm or less, and is 500 nm. Or less than 100 nm.

  The viscosity of the prepared slurry is not particularly limited, but is usually 100 mPa · s or more, preferably 1000 mPa · s or more, and usually 6000 mPa · s or less, preferably 5000 mPa · s or less.

2) Oily components Specific examples of oily components that can be used in the present embodiment include macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, Animal and vegetable oils such as palm oil and liquid lanolin; hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and pristane; liquid fatty acids such as oleic acid and isostearic acid; liquid higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol; cetyl isooctanoate and myristine Isopropyl acid, hexyldecyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, di-2-heptyl Glycerin undecanoate, glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentane erythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triiso Synthetic ester oils such as stearate and glyceryl triisooctanoate; chain polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and diphenylpolysiloxane; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane, etc. Cyclic polysiloxanes such as amino-modified polysiloxanes, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, fluorine-modified polysiloxanes, etc. Silicone oils such as Rokisan; and the like. However, what belongs to the specific surfactant group mentioned later shall not be handled as an oil-based component.

Only 1 type may be mix | blended and an oil-based component may be mix | blended in combination of 2 or more type.
In the present embodiment, when the oil component is blended, it is usually 5% by mass or more in the cosmetic, and preferably 10% by mass or more. Moreover, it is 25 mass% or less normally, and it is preferable that it is 20 mass% or less.

3) Solvent The solvent may be any solvent that is usually used to prepare a slurry. Examples include purified water, volatile silicone oil, lower alcohols, ethers, volatile hydrocarbon oils, pyrrolidones, and the like. Moreover, you may mix and use these.
The amount of the solvent may be an amount sufficient to mix the powder and the oily component, and is usually 50 parts by mass or more and 200 parts by mass or less with respect to 100 parts by mass of the powder.

4) Others The powder cosmetics produced in the present embodiment can be widely blended with components usually used in powder cosmetics.

For example, whitening ingredients, anti-inflammatory ingredients, plant extracts and the like can be mentioned as active ingredients.
In addition, as surfactants, fatty acid soap (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), anionic surfactants such as potassium lauryl sulfate, alkylethanol triethanolamine ether, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, lauryl Cationic surfactants such as amine oxides,
Betaine surfactants (alkyl betaines, amide betaines, sulfobetaines, etc.), imidazoline amphoteric surfactants (such as 2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt), acylmethyl taurine Amphoteric surfactants such as
Sorbitan fatty acid esters (such as sorbitan monostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate), glycerin fatty acids (such as glyceryl monostearate), propylene glycol fatty acid esters (such as propylene glycol monostearate), hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ether POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, etc.), POE sorbite fatty acid esters (POE-sorbitol monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid esters (POE-glycerin monoisosteare) Rate), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE2-octylide) Sil ethers, etc.), POE alkyl phenyl ethers (POE nonyl phenyl ether, etc.), Pluronic types, POE / POP alkyl ethers (POE / POP2-decyl tetradecyl ether, etc.), Tetronics, POE castor oil / cured castor Examples include oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hydrogenated castor oil, etc.), nonionic surfactants such as sucrose fatty acid esters, alkyl glucosides, and the like.

  Polyhydric alcohols include polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4 -Hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and the like.

  Thickeners include guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, pectin, mannan, starch, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, glycogen, Heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, tragacanth gum, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, kerato sulfate, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, caronic acid, chitin, chitosan, carboxymethyl Chitin, agar, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, al Le-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, and bentonite.

Examples of the UV absorber include paraaminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, benzophenone UV absorbers, sugar UV absorbers, 2- (2 UV absorbers such as'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, and the like.

  The method of slurrying in the slurry preparation is not particularly limited as long as the fluid mixer is used, and a known method can be used. For example, it is possible to make a slurry by introducing a powder and an oily component, and a solvent to which other components are added if necessary, into the mixer and flowing the chamber as a high-pressure fluid.

<Drying process>
The drying step is a step of drying the prepared slurry to obtain a powder cosmetic. The method is not particularly limited, and a known method can be used.
For example, the powder cosmetic may be obtained by making the slurry into fine droplets by mechanical shearing force, and drying the slurry by sending a dry gas to the fine droplets. You may shape | mold the obtained powder cosmetics by press molding etc. as needed.
Moreover, after removing a solvent from the prepared slurry and filling it in a container such as a metal or resin dish, a solid powder cosmetic may be obtained by dry press molding. In this case, after removing the solvent from the slurry, it may have a pulverization step of pulverizing the remaining bulk.
Alternatively, suction press molding may be performed after the prepared slurry is filled in a container such as an intermediate dish made of metal or resin.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention in detail, the technical scope of this invention is not limited only to the illustrated example.

(Example 1, Comparative Example 1)
<Slurry preparation>
100 parts by mass of the powder and oil mixture shown in Table 1 was added to 60 parts by mass of the solvent (hydrogenated polyisobutene). A solvent containing powder and oil was introduced into a high-pressure fluid mixer Starburst (manufactured by Sugino Machine Co., Ltd.) schematically shown in FIG. 2 to prepare a slurry (Example 1). In preparing the slurry, the fluid in the mixer was increased to about 70 MPa by a pressure intensifier.
Moreover, as Comparative Example 1, PICO MILL “PCM-LR” (manufactured by Asada Tekko Co., Ltd.), which is a stirrer using media instead of starburst, was used for slurry preparation.
<Molding>
The prepared slurry was filled in a resin dish and dried to obtain powdered solid cosmetics according to Examples and Comparative Examples.

<Evaluation>
The obtained powdered solid cosmetic was evaluated as follows. The results are shown in Table 2.
・ Amount taken The amount taken was evaluated by sliding the surface of the powdered solid cosmetic three times with a load of 2.9 N using a NBR (nitrile rubber) puff (52 × 44 × 8.5 mm). It was done by measuring the powder cosmetics.
(Standard)
◎: 9 or more out of 10 responded that the puff was good ○: 6-8 out of 10 answered that the puff was good △: 3-5 out of 10 were able to take the puff Answer that it is good ×: 0 to 2 out of 10 responded that the puff is good

・ Smoothness (standard)
◎: 9 or more out of 10 responded that the touch was smooth ○: 6-8 out of 10 responded that the touch was smooth △: 3-5 out of 10 responded that the feel was smooth ×: 0 out of 10 ~ 2 responded that the feel was smooth

・ Gloss (standard)
◎: Reply if 9 or more out of 10 are glossy ○: Reply if 6-8 out of 10 are glossy △: Reply if 3-5 out of 10 are glossy ×: 0 out of 10 ~ 2 people say they are shiny

・ SPF
Each pressed powder is applied to surgical tape (manufactured by Transpore 3M Healthcare Co., Ltd.) with a loading amount of ² mg / cm ^{2 and} a size of 6.4 cm × 6.4 cm.
SPF value was calculated | required from the average defense spectrum obtained by measuring 10 times using UV-2000S SPF analyzer made from absphere. In Table 2, the relative values with the measured value of Example 1 as 1 are shown.

From the results of Tables 1 and 2, the prescription was the same, but there were differences in the evaluation of the yield, smoothness and gloss. This difference is that in Example 1, the use of a medialess mixer in slurry preparation made synthetic powder, which is a powder that gives functions such as ease of removal from the puff, smoothness, and gloss to cosmetics. This is because mica (D ₅₀ : 12 μm), boron nitride (D ₅₀ : 6 μm), and bismuth oxychloride (D ₅₀ : 10 μm) were blended in the cosmetic while maintaining their particle sizes substantially. In addition, the average particle diameters of extender talc and mica are not significantly reduced.
On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 which is a stirrer using a medium, the particle size of the powder imparting the above functions is reduced by overpulverization, and the particle sizes of talc and mica as extender pigments are also reduced. It was.

10, 20 High-pressure fluid mixer 1, 11 Chamber 2a, 2b Raw material supply port 12 Raw material supply port 12a Orifice 3 Collision point 13 Cavitation 4, 14 Discharge port

Claims (5)

A method for producing a powder cosmetic, comprising: a slurry preparation step for preparing a slurry by mixing at least a powder and an oily component in a solvent; and a drying step for drying the prepared slurry to obtain a powder cosmetic. Because
In the slurry preparation step, a powder cosmetic manufacturing method using a high-pressure fluid mixer that mixes powder and oil-based components by flowing the inside of the chamber using a solvent containing powder and oil-based components as a high-pressure fluid.   The powder according to claim 1, wherein the high-pressure fluid mixer discharges a solvent containing a powder and an oil component as a high-pressure fluid, and mixes the powder and the oil component by causing the high-pressure fluid to collide obliquely with each other. A method for producing body cosmetics.   The method for producing a powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the high-pressure fluid mixer mixes the powder and the oil component by generating cavitation in the chamber.   The said powder is a manufacturing method of the powder cosmetics of any one of Claims 1-3 containing 2 or more types of powder from which a particle size differs at least. The powder had an average particle diameter D ₅₀ of less 5μm fine, having an average particle diameter D ₅₀ of at least the above extender pigment 20 [mu] m, the powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4 Production method.

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