JP2017186709A - Knitted fabric having uniform surface quality on both front and back sides - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a pile knitted fabric which has uniform dyed surfaces on both the front and back sides of the fabric even while using a napped yarn containing hardly dyeable fibers, such as functional fibers, and which can express a deep high-quality color tone.SOLUTION: A knitted fabric has the following characteristics: the knitted fabric has a reverse pile three-layer structure; a middle layer comprises a spun yarn containing hardly dyeable fibers; the English count of the spun yarn is 20-100; the pile of a front layer and a back layer each comprise a filament yarn having a fineness of 35-90 dtex, and the pile is napped; a course density and a wale density are both 30-45/inch; and a basis weight is 100-250 g/m. The knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for use in highly comfortable inner and middle garments.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a pile knitted fabric that contains a hardly dyeable fiber such as a functional fiber, has few dyeing spots when viewed from the surface, and has a uniform and clean surface quality on both sides.

  For inner wear and middle wear, knitted fabrics with soft texture, high elasticity and light weight are used. Furthermore, these knitted fabrics have a solid surface and a beautiful and uniform color with a deep depth, so that a high-class feeling is obtained and the commercial value is improved. However, since many fibers having comfort and functionality cannot be dyed or cannot be dyed at a sufficient concentration, it is difficult for a knitted fabric including these fibers to achieve both functionality and uniform dyeing. In particular, in the case of a spun yarn using high-performance fibers of cut fibers, there is a problem that the high-quality feeling of the dyed surface is remarkably deteriorated because fluff of high-performance fibers that are difficult to dye is present on the surface.

  As an example of a conventional attempt to solve this problem, there is a technique related to spun yarn with less fluff. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes an air entangled spun yarn that has less fuzz and is difficult to pill. This air-entangled spun yarn is characterized by few fuzz, but the use of this spun yarn does not sufficiently solve the above problem.

  In addition, as an example of an attempt to devise a three-layer structure of a knitted fabric, Patent Document 2 includes two layers of a surface layer and a back layer or three layers of a surface layer, an intermediate layer, and a back layer. There has been proposed a knitted fabric characterized in that the bundled spun yarn is disposed in the back layer, and at least one yarn constituting the surface layer and / or the intermediate layer is bonded to the back layer by knit and / or tack. However, when this method is used, there is a problem that it is necessary to use a bound spun yarn that tends to have a hard texture as a spun yarn, and that a heavy knitted fabric tends to be formed.

  Furthermore, as an example of a pile knitted fabric, Patent Document 3 proposes a knitted fabric having a reversible structure formed by splicing yarn. However, in a simple reversible structure, the splicing yarn only covered one side of the knitted fabric, and the back side ground yarn was exposed, and the ground yarn could not be hidden. In addition, when a thin and light knitted fabric is made, there is a problem that the splicing yarn and the ground yarn are easily turned over, and the pile yarn on the front surface is also exposed to the back surface, and whitening is likely to occur.

  In order to solve these problems, the applicant described in Patent Document 4 as a knitted fabric having a uniform and clean surface quality. And the structure which formed the structure | tissue arrange | positioned by the knit welt so that hardly dyeable fiber was hardly visible from the surface side was proposed. However, the method of Patent Document 4 only prevents the infusible fiber from jumping out on one side, and does not prevent the both sides from jumping out.

  In this way, all of the conventional technologies have problems, and it is necessary to keep the mixing ratio of hard-dyed fibers in the spun yarn low, to make a special yarn configuration, and the knitted fabric becomes thick and heavy. The current situation is that there is nothing to satisfy.

JP 2004-339650 A JP 2014-036551 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-242953 Patent No. 5869719

  The present invention was devised in view of the current state of the prior art, and its purpose is uniform on both the front and back of the knitted fabric even when yarns having fluff containing hard-dyeing fibers such as functional fibers are used. It is an object of the present invention to provide a pile knitted fabric that can express a high-quality color with a deep dyeing surface. Another object is to provide a knitted fabric that is lightweight and has high heat retention, and is optimal for comfortable inner and midler clothing.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have focused on the structure in which the ground yarn is sandwiched between the front and back surfaces of the pile yarn as a knitted fabric of the reverse pile structure, and this structure is utilized. By arranging the yarn containing incompetent fiber completely inside the knitted fabric, the incompressible fiber is hardly visible from the front and back, and when washed, the incompetent fiber moves and fluff comes out on the front and back It was found that this can be prevented. In addition, this knitted fabric is thin, light, swelled, highly heat-retaining, and highly breathable, making it an ideal knitted fabric for warm, moisture-free, comfortable innerwear and midler clothing. I also found out.

That is, this invention is completed based on said knowledge, and has the following structures (1)-(7).
(1) It has a three-layer structure of reverse pile, the middle layer is composed of spun yarns containing hard-dyeing fibers, the English yarn count of spun yarn is 20-100, and the surface pile and back layer are fine A knitted fabric comprising a filament yarn of 35 to 90 dtex, a pile is raised, the course density and the wale density are both 30 to 45 pieces / inch, and the basis weight is 100 to 250 g / m ^2. .
(2) The knitted fabric according to (1), wherein the fineness ratio of the spun yarn constituting the middle layer and the filament constituting the pile is 1: 1 to 1: 4.
(3) The knitted fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the spun yarn constituting the middle layer is a fine spinning twisted yarn and / or a compact spin yarn.
(4) The strength of the spun yarn constituting the middle layer is 1.0 g / dtex or more, and the number of 3 mm long fuzz is 0.2 to 5.0 / 10 m (1) to ( The knitted fabric according to any one of 3).
(5) The knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the filament yarn constituting the pile has a single yarn fineness of 0.6 to 1.6 dpf.
(6) Hardly dyeable fibers are acrylate fibers, polyacrylic acid fibers, modacrylic fibers, polyethylene fibers, polypropylene fibers, polyphenylene sulfide fibers, polyparaphenylene benzoxazole fibers, aramid fibers, liquid crystal polyester fibers, polyacrylate fibers, and vinyl chloride. The fiber according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the fiber is at least one functional fiber selected from fibers, and the hard-dyeing fiber is contained in the spun yarn constituting the middle layer in an amount of 5 to 50%. knitting.
(7) The thickness is 1.3 to 2.0 mm, the heat retaining property is 25 to 40%, and the air permeability is 100 to 150 cc / cm ² · s (1) to (6) ) The knitted fabric according to any one of

  The knitted fabric of the present invention has a structure in which the ground yarn is completely sandwiched between the front and back surfaces by pile yarn, so that the spun yarn containing the hardly dyeable fiber and the fluff are hardly visible from both the front and back surfaces. Since it is not exposed to the front and back even after repeated washing, it can maintain a uniform and clean surface quality on both the front and back. Therefore, the knitted fabric of the present invention does not resonate on both the front and back sides of the knitted fabric even when using fibers that are very highly functional but difficult to dye. Comfortable to increase heat retention by using hard-dyeing fibers with low thermal conductivity, and to control moisture in clothes using hard-to-stain and moisture-absorbing fibers to prevent over-steaming and drying It is possible to enhance the safety and the safety without deteriorating the front and back appearance. Furthermore, since the knitted fabric of the present invention has a feeling of lightness and heat retention and can have high breathability, it is possible to provide a knitted fabric excellent in wearing comfort even for uses such as an inner.

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram of a structure (reverse pile) having a structure in which spun yarn is arranged in the middle layer and pile yarn is sandwiched from both sides. FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a yarn carrier. FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a sinker. FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a knitting needle. FIG. 5 shows the operating lines of the needle and sinker by the cam for reverse pile. FIG. 6 shows the movement of the needle, sinker and loop formation during knitting to make a reverse pile. FIG. 7 shows the movement of the needle, sinker and loop formation during knitting to make a reverse pile. FIG. 8 shows the movement of the needle, sinker and loop formation during knitting to make a reverse pile. FIG. 9 shows a reverse pile stitch created by the knitting operation. FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional photograph of the knitted fabric showing the pile thickness. FIG. 11 shows a reverse pile structure (used in Example 1). FIG. 12 shows a three-layer tengu structure (used in Comparative Example 1). FIG. 13 shows a corrugated cardboard knit structure (used in Comparative Example 2). FIG. 14 is a surface photograph of a knitted fabric in which the number of fluffs of hardly dyeable fibers is 0 / cm ² . FIG. 15 is a photograph of the surface of a knitted fabric in which the number of fluffs of hardly dyeable fibers is 27 / cm ² .

  The knitted fabric of the present invention has a three-layer structure of reverse pile, and a spun yarn containing hardly dyeable fibers is arranged in the middle layer as a ground yarn, and this ground yarn is sandwiched between the front and back surfaces of the pile yarn in a sandwich shape. It is characterized by. Specifically, as shown in FIG. 1, the knitted fabric of the present invention is arranged such that the pile yarn on the side raised on the surface layer is arranged so that the middle layer ground yarn becomes invisible from the front side due to the raised pile on the surface layer. By arranging the pile yarn on the side not raised in the layer, the ground yarn of the middle layer becomes invisible from the back side by the stitch of the back layer.

  A knitted fabric having a reverse pile structure as shown in FIG. 1 can be prepared based on a conventionally known method, and will be described based on the type and specification of a knitting machine using an example thereof. As the knitting machine, it is preferable to use a single knit pile knitting machine capable of making a sinker pile. As a commercial product of a pile knitting machine, for example, a pile knitting machine VX-PLD, VX-PL4, etc., manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd. can be used. It can be used by remodeling. In order to obtain the knitted fabric of the reverse pile structure of the present invention, the structure of the cam, sinker, needle, and machine setting are important. Below, explanation of these parts and how to make a reverse pile structure using them are explained.

  The yarn carrier is a guide for accurately guiding the pile yarn and the ground yarn to the sinker and the needle (see FIG. 2). The pile yarn is hung on the upper part of the sinker (see FIG. 3), and further guided to a position where the pile yarn and the ground yarn are hooked on the knitting needle (see FIG. 4).

  The sinker is a part for guiding a yarn to be knitted (pile yarn, ground yarn) to a needle at a fixed position and securing a necessary length for the pile (see FIG. 3). The pile yarn is hung as a pile on the upper portion of the sinker, and the pile yarn and the ground yarn are hooked on the lower portion of the sinker and guided to the knitting needle (see FIG. 4). In order to obtain a reverse pile structure, it is preferable to have a protrusion on the sinker nose of the pile sinker. When a pile loop is formed, the size and tension of the pile loop are controlled by being caught by the protrusion. As a specific sinker shape, a Hinkel nose sinker is preferable.

  The knitting needle hooks yarn (pile yarn, ground yarn) guided to the sinker at the same time and knives it into pile yarn and ground yarn. The knitting needle is preferably a reverse hook needle called a raccoon needle. The curve near the apex of the hook needle where the yarn comes into contact is gentle, and when the knitting needle moves up and down by hooking both the pile yarn and the ground yarn at once, it prevents the pile yarn and the ground yarn from switching. The pile yarn is kept outside the sinker loop and the ground yarn is kept inside the sinker loop.

  The cam includes a sinker cam for controlling the movement of the sinker and a needle cam for controlling the vertical movement of the needle, and the knitting needle and the sinker move optimally by this cam. This cam is installed in the cam box and sinker ring. To make a reverse pile structure, the shape of the sinker cam is very important.From the area where the knitting needle grasps the yarn and descends further and the old loop knocks over, the sinker is pushed out until the needle rises. Set to delay. This delays the pile yarn from hanging on the side surface of the upper protrusion of the sinker nose and increasing the tension in the sinker loop. Thereby, the tension applied to the pile yarn in the region where the knitting needle is most pulled down and lifted is moderated so that the ground yarn and the pile yarn are not switched. Further, even when the old loop knocks over, it is possible to prevent the pile yarn and the ground yarn from being switched by applying a strong tension to the pile yarn.

  FIG. 5 shows the operation lines of the needle and sinker by the cam for reverse pile. Thus, by providing the sinker push angle, the pile loop can be gradually pushed out while applying tension. Thereby, reversibility of the ground yarn and the pile yarn can be ensured.

  Next, the movement of the needle, sinker, and loop formation during knitting for making a reverse pile are shown in FIGS. FIG. 6 shows a state where the ground yarn is disposed outside the needle and the pile yarn is disposed inside and pulled. FIG. 7 shows a state where the loop is positioned on the upper side by the ground yarn and the loop is positioned on the lower side by the pile yarn when the needle is raised. FIG. 8 shows a state in which a ground yarn and a pile yarn for making a new loop are drawn into the old loop, and the pile yarn that rides on the sinker is guided to the back of the upper projection of the sinker. FIG. 9 shows a reverse pile stitch created by the knitting operation. In addition to the above, regarding the structure on the needle loop side, it is necessary to adjust the knitting tension so that the pile yarn is stabilized outside and the ground yarn is stabilized inside.

  In order to achieve the object, the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably white in which the yarns constituting the surface layer (pile surface) and the back layer are dyed or bleached. Dyeing is not particularly limited, and may be original yarn, dyeing raw cotton, yarn dyeing or post dyeing. In the knitted fabric of the present invention, the spun yarn containing hardly dyeable fibers is arranged only in the middle layer. Examples of the hardly dyeable fibers include acrylate fibers, polyacrylic acid fibers, modacrylic fibers, (ultrapolymer). Polyethylene fiber, polypropylene fiber, polyphenylene sulfide fiber, polyparaphenylene benzoxazole (PBO) fiber, aramid fiber, liquid crystal polyester fiber, polyarylate fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, etc. And dyed functional fibers that are difficult to dye when the fibers are visible on the surface of the knitted fabric. Here, the term “functionality” refers to, for example, high strength, high heat conductivity or low heat conductivity, high moisture absorption, moisture absorption heat generation, light weight, flame retardant, deodorant, antibacterial, etc. Say function or performance. These functional fibers can add high functionality to the knitted fabric instead of being difficult to dye. These functional fibers can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  Any fiber (dyed fiber) that can be mixed with hardly dyeable fibers in the middle layer of the knitted fabric of the present invention can be used as long as it is a general-purpose fiber, and is not particularly limited. For example, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, polynosic, solvent-spun cellulose, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, cellulose fibers such as cotton and hemp, wool and other animal hair fibers Natural fibers such as silk can be used.

  The mixing ratio of hardly dyeable fibers in the spun yarn arranged in the middle layer is preferably 5 to 100% by weight, more preferably 5 to 50% by weight. When the mixing ratio is less than this range, the performance of the functional fiber is not sufficiently utilized.

  The number of fluffs of the spun yarn containing the hardly dyeable fiber used in the present invention can be used without any problem as long as it is in the range of the number of surface fluff in a general ring spun yarn. Of course, a spun yarn with less fluff is advantageous for preventing the fluff from blowing to the surface. The number of fluffs of the ring spun yarn varies depending on the total fineness, twisting coefficient, and presence / absence of fried yarn, but in the case of a general normal twisted yarn, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more per 10 m of yarn length is 50. It is as follows. Moreover, the preferable state of the fluff which does not blow out even if the scouring process in washing is repeated is the number of fluff having a fluff length of 1 mm or more is 50 to 1,000. More preferably, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more is 10 or less, the number of fluffs having a length of 1 mm or more is 300 or less, and even more preferably, the number of fluffs having a length of 3 mm or more is 0.2 to 5.0. The number of fluff of 1 mm or more is 25 or less. When the above range is exceeded, there is a possibility that the surface appearance of the knitted fabric may be affected when a spun yarn having a very large amount of fluff is used.

  Examples of the spinning method of the spun yarn constituting the middle layer of the present invention include ring spinning, MVS, hollow spindle spinning, etc., but the yarn strength is high, the yarn quality is good, and the fine count is easy. Ring spinning with high versatility is preferred. Furthermore, the spun yarn is more preferably a spun-twisted yarn and / or a compact spin yarn with relatively little fluff among ring spun yarns.

  The spun yarn constituting the middle layer of the present invention preferably has a strength of 0.5 gf / dtex or more. More preferably, it is 1.0 gf / dtex or more. Since the knitted fabric having the reverse pile structure bears the strength of the knitted fabric in which the ground yarn is substantially completed, if the strength is less than the above-mentioned strength, it may be difficult to use the completed knitted fabric for the application of the present invention. On the contrary, there is no problem with the high strength, and a high strength knitted fabric can be obtained by using a high strength fiber that is difficult to dye.

  The mixing ratio of the hardly dyeable fiber in the entire knitted fabric of the present invention is 3 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 25% by weight. When the mixing ratio of the hardly dyeable fiber is less than the above range, the intended functionality may not be obtained.

  The fineness of the spun yarn constituting the middle layer is 20 to 100, preferably 25 to 80, and more preferably 30 to 80 in English. When the fineness is thicker than the above range, fluff is likely to appear on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric tends to be thick and difficult to make a thin and light knitted fabric. Moreover, when thinner than the said range, the mixing rate of a functional fiber will become low, and it will become difficult to acquire a functional effect or to maintain knitted fabric strength.

  The yarn constituting the surface layer (pile) and the back layer (pile yarn) may be a spun yarn, a long fiber, or a composite yarn, but the pile yarn has a beautiful eye surface. Therefore, a long fiber is preferable. Any fiber material (dyed fiber) used for the pile yarn can be used as long as it is a general-purpose fiber, and is not particularly limited. For example, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, polynosic, solvent-spun cellulose, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, cellulose fibers such as cotton and hemp, wool and other animal hair fibers Natural fibers such as silk can be used.

  When the pile yarn is a long fiber, it is preferably a crimped yarn. Crimped yarn refers to processed yarns such as false twisting method, rubbing method, twisting-heat setting-untwisting method, indentation method, shaping method, composite crimping method, fiber opening blending method, etc. In the invention, a false twisted yarn produced by a false twist method is particularly preferable. The crimp elongation rate of the crimped yarn is preferably 25 to 70%. More preferably, the crimp elongation is 40 to 60%. By making the crimp high, the thickness of the surface layer can be increased and the fluffing of the surface layer surface can be effectively prevented. If the crimp extension is less than the above range, the effect of preventing fluff on the surface of the surface layer tends to be reduced, and if it exceeds the above range, the texture of the knitted fabric tends to be coarse. The above-mentioned highly crimped false twisted yarn can be produced by a conventionally known method. For example, a false twisting method such as spindle false twist, friction disk false twist, or belt false twist can be adopted.

  The pile yarn used for the knitted fabric of the present invention needs to have a total fineness of 30 to 90 dtex, preferably 30 to 85 dtex. When the total fineness of the pile yarn is less than the above range, the hard-to-resist fiber of the ground yarn is easily visible. If the above range is exceeded, the ground yarn cannot be seen, but it becomes a heavy knitted fabric for use in the present invention.

  The pile yarn preferably has a yarn fineness of 100 to 400% as compared with a spun yarn containing hardly dyeable fibers arranged in the middle layer. More preferably, it is 120%-350%, More preferably, it is 150-300%. When the fineness of the yarns constituting the front and back layers is less than the above range, the fluffs of the hard-resisting fibers in the inner layer tend to appear on the surface. On the other hand, if the above range is exceeded, the mixing ratio of the functional fibers becomes too low, and the effect becomes difficult to obtain.

  The single yarn fineness of the filament yarn constituting the pile yarn is preferably 0.3 to 2.0 dpf. More preferably, it is 0.6 to 1.6 dpf. If the single yarn fineness is less than the above range, pilling of the pile surface is likely to occur, and the back surface is likely to be caught by fingers or protrusions. When the above range is exceeded, the texture tends to become hard.

  In the knitting of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the higher the gauge of the knitting machine, the higher the concealability of the fluff of the hardly dyeable fiber. Although the gauge that can be used is limited depending on the thickness of the yarn, the gauge is preferably 20 to 46 G / inch for a knitted fabric that can be suitably used for inner use. More preferably, it is 21 to 41 G / inch. If the gauge is lower than the above range, the concealability may be lowered, and if it exceeds the above range, a very dense fabric is obtained, but it is necessary to use a thinner thread, and the knitting property tends to be lowered.

  The pile height (setting of the sinker height) when making the pile knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably set to 1.3 to 2.8 mm. More preferably, it is 1.6 to 2.4 mm. If the pile height is less than the above range, the hard-dyeing fibers of the ground yarn are easy to see, and if it exceeds the above range, the knitting property tends to be lowered.

  The density of the knitted fabric of the present invention varies depending on the thickness of the yarn constituting the knitted fabric, but the coarse density and the wale density are both 30 to 45 pieces / inch within the range of the spun yarn and the pile yarn used in the present invention. is there. More preferably, it is 30-43 pieces / inch, and still more preferably 32-40 pieces / inch. When both densities are less than the above range, the fluffs of hardly dyeable fibers tend to appear on the front and back surfaces.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention may be processed under general circular knitted fabric dyeing conditions, and is not particularly limited. However, the knitted fabric of the present invention needs to raise pile yarn. If the pile yarn is only dyed, the spun yarn containing the hard-dyeing fibers will be visible through the gaps between the piles, making it difficult to have a beautiful face, but when piled, the pile fibers spread apart and the middle layer is spun The thread and its fluff are well concealed to give an elegant and deep color.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that the surface of the front and back layers is hardly fuzzy or noticeable when visually observed as described above. When viewed in terms of the average fluff density of the surface fluff described in the examples, the number of fluffs of the hardly dyeable fibers observed on the surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 15 or less per 1 cm ² , more preferably 13 or less, especially Preferably 8 or less can be achieved. In addition, even after 10 times of laundering, the surface of the knitted fabric of the present invention has a beautiful surface, and the observed number of fluffs of incompetent fibers is 18 or less per 1 cm ² , more preferably 16 or less, especially Preferably, 12 or less can be achieved.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably used for applications requiring a beautiful dyed surface, and is suitably used for apparel applications, mainly inner applications, midler applications such as shirts, and the like. Therefore, when the wearing feeling is taken into consideration, the basis weight of the knitted fabric is in the range of 100 to 250 g / m ² . Preferably it is 100-200 g / m < ² >. More preferably, it is 100-180 g / m < ² >. When the basis weight is less than the above range, it is difficult to obtain sufficient heat retention. When the above range is exceeded, the knitted fabric is too heavy and the feeling of wearing tends to deteriorate. In order to be suitably used for the inner or midler, the thickness of the knitted fabric is preferably 1.0 to 2.5 mm. Preferably it is 1.3-2.0 mm. Especially preferably, it is 1.5-1.8 mm. When the thickness is less than the above range, the fluff of the middle-layer spun yarn tends to be easily seen. When it exceeds the above range, the feeling of wearing when it is thick and layered tends to deteriorate. Further bulkiness associated with lightness is preferably 8.0~15.0cm ³ / g, in particular 10-12 cm ³ / g are preferred.

Since the knitted fabric of the present invention is configured as described above, it has high heat retention and high air permeability, and therefore, it is easy to quickly release moisture emitted from the body to the outside air side. Therefore, the knitted fabric of the present invention can achieve a heat retention of 25 to 40%. Moreover, the knitted fabric of the present invention can achieve an air permeability of 100 to 150 cc / cm ² · s, and is excellent in air permeability for a dense knitted fabric having a thickness and invisible ground yarn.

  Next, the present invention will be specifically described using Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these. The measuring method of each characteristic value used in the present invention is as follows.

<Count of spun yarn>
It measured based on the cotton count measurement method of the correct amount tex and count measurement of the general spun yarn test method of JIS-L-1095-9.4.1.

<Strength of spun yarn>
Measurements were made 50 times with Tensilon (Tensile Strength Meter) of Measuring Instruments Industry, and the average value was calculated.

<Number of fuzz of spun yarn>
The number of fluffs of the spun yarn was measured with an F-index tester manufactured by Shikishima Boseki Co., Ltd. The number of fluff of 1 mm or more, the number of fluff of 3 mm or more, and the number of fluff of 5 mm or more were measured over a yarn length of 10 m. As the measurement conditions, the number of fluffs of each length was measured 5 times per test, and the average value was calculated.

<Crimp elongation (%)>
Using a lap reel (circumferential length: 1.125 m) having an appropriate tension adjusting device, a load of 1/10 (g / d) is applied to make an 8-wind kite. This is put on a hook and immersed in hot water at 100 ° C. for 5 minutes under no load. The sample is taken out of hot water and left in a wet state (2/10) × 8 × 2 × g of display denier g. Apply a load and measure the length a after 1 minute. Next, the load is removed, and it is dried with a dryer at 60 ± 2 ° C. for 30 minutes while being applied to the hook in an unloaded state, left in a standard test room for 1 hour or longer, and then (2/1000) × 8 Apply an initial load of g × 2 × display denier and measure the length b after 1 minute. The crimp expansion rate is calculated using the above-mentioned formulas a and b. The number of tests is 2 times and is expressed as the average value (up to one decimal place).
Crimp elongation (%) = [(ab) / a] × 100

<Fiber mixing ratio>
It measured based on the mixed rate test method (measured by the dissolution method) of JIS-L1030-2.

<Thickness of knitted fabric>
It measured based on the thickness of JIS-L1018-8.5.1 knitted fabric.

<Density of knitted fabric>
It measured based on JIS-L1018-8.8 density.

<Weight of knitted fabric>
It measured based on the mass per unit area in a JIS-L1018-8.4.2 standard state.

<Air permeability of knitted fabric>
The air permeability was measured by the Frazier method.

<Heat retention of knitted fabric>
Thermal insulation was measured using Thermolab II manufactured by Kato Tech.

<Pile thickness>
Cut the knitted fabric in the course direction, enlarge the cross section of the fabric 100 times using a digital microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Co., Ltd., and measure the pile part 10 times on the microscope scale. Was the thickness of the pile. For reference, a cross-sectional photograph of the knitted fabric showing the pile thickness is shown in FIG.

<Bulkness of knitted fabric>
The bulkiness was calculated by the following formula using the measured thickness and basis weight of the knitted fabric.
Bulkiness (cm ³ / g) = {thickness of knitted fabric (mm) / weight of knitted fabric (g / m ² )} × 1000

<Washing conditions>
Washing was performed according to JIS-L0217-103 method. The drying was suspended.

<The number of fluffs on the front and back of the knitted fabric>
Using a digital microscope VHX-5000 manufactured by Keyence Co., Ltd., the camera was set perpendicularly to the knitted fabric surface and back surface and observed, and a photograph was taken at a magnification of 50 to 200 times. A 1000 μm measure (line) was displayed on the photograph, and the number of fluffs of the inferior fiber within 1 cm ^{2 of the} knitted fabric surface and back surface was counted. The photograph was taken three times at different locations, and the average number of fluffs counted was determined. In addition, when the washing treatment was performed 10 times, the number of fluffs on the front and back surfaces of the hardly dyeable fiber was counted in the same manner.
As the quality in which the fluff on the front surface and the back surface was inconspicuous, the one having an average number of fluffs of 17 or less in 1 cm ² was judged as ◯. 18 to 22 samples with slightly fuzzy marks were evaluated as Δ, and 23 or more samples with very low fuzz and poor surface quality were evaluated as ×. For reference, FIG. 14 shows a surface photograph when the number of infusible fluff is 0 / cm ² , and FIG. 15 shows a surface photograph when the number of fluff is 27 / cm ² .

<Solid feeling on front and back>
The uniformity of the color of the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric was visually evaluated, and those having high uniformity were described as “good”, and those having inferior color uniformity due to the middle yarn were described as “visible middle yarn”.

Example 1
Daiwabo rayon staple fiber (1.3dtex, fiber length 38mm) 92% by weight and exfoliated acrylate fiber ex 8% by weight made by Nippon Exlan Kogyo were blended with OHARA blended cotton machine, and then made by Ishikawa Seisakusho. A card sliver was used as a card sliver, and a sliver of 250 gelen / 6 yd was obtained by passing it twice through a kneading machine made from a loom. Further, this sliver was passed through a Toyoda Automatic Loom Co., Ltd. to produce a 60 gelen / 15 yd roving. After that, using a ring spinning machine manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation, two rovings were spun at a draft of 40 times and a traveler rotation speed of 9000 rpm, and the English count 80/2 silo compact (SC) (compact spinning x spinning spinning twist) The spinning yarn for the middle layer was obtained by the spinning method. The twist coefficient (K) at that time was 3.8 (twist number 29.4 dtex (T) / inch). Next, a polyester false twisted yarn 56dtex (T) / 72 filament (f) manufactured by Toyobo was prepared as the yarn for the front and back layers, and the Fukuhara Sangyo knitting machine (pile knitting machine PL-II) 30 inch-24 gauge was used for reverse. A pile (pile length 2.2 mm) was knitted.

  After pre-setting the knitted reverse pile (see FIG. 11) at 180 ° C., dyeing the false twisted yarn 56T / 72f by dispersive dyeing using the NS type liquid dyeing machine NS Rayon staining was performed. After dyeing, after passing through a drying process, the pile side (front side) was brushed with an Italian-made LAMPERI (Lampertty) simp brush, and finishing was performed at 130 ° C. for finishing. The knitted fabric thus obtained showed no high-quality knitted fabrics because no diffusible acrylate fibers were seen from either the front or back side. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the knitted fabric of Example 1.

Example 2
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the acrylate fiber of the spun yarn was changed to a modacrylic fiber. The obtained knitted fabric was of high quality when viewed from either the front or back side as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 2 and the evaluation results.

Example 3
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the polyester fineness of the pile yarn for the front and back layers was changed to 84T / 72f. The obtained knitted fabric was of high quality when viewed from either the front or back side as in Example 1. The details of the knitted fabric of Example 3 and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the blend ratio of acrylate fibers in the spun yarn was changed to 30%. The obtained knitted fabric had a good solid feeling on the front and back sides, despite the increase in the mixing ratio of the hard-dyeing fibers. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 4 and the evaluation results.

Example 5
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarn count of the acrylate fiber of the spun yarn was changed to 60/2. The obtained knitted fabric had good solid feeling on the front and back sides, despite the fact that the count of the hard-dyeing fiber was thick. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 5 and the evaluation results.

Example 6
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the pile length of the pile yarn for the front and back layers was changed to 1.5 mm. The obtained knitted fabric had good solid feeling on the front and back sides despite the short pile length. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 6 and the evaluation results.

Example 7
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the pile length of the pile yarn for the front and back layers was changed to 2.7 mm. The obtained knitted fabric had a longer pile length, thereby improving the heat retention and the feeling of swelling, and the solid feeling on the front and back sides was further improved. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 7 and the evaluation results.

Example 8
The spinning method of the spun yarn (rayon / acrylate blend) used for the ground yarn is the compact spinning method (C), and the draft of the roving yarn is 120 gelen / 15 yd, and the draft is 40 times, 40/1 spun yarn A knitted fabric was created under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that. The obtained knitted fabric was able to obtain a sufficiently good solid feeling although the number of fluffs of hardly dyeable fibers was slightly increased. Table 1 shows the details of the knitted fabric of Example 8 and the evaluation results.

Comparative Example 1
The front and back layers are ester processed yarns 56T / 72f used in Example 1, and the middle layer is a knitting machine of a single knitting machine XL-3FA manufactured by Fukuhara Sangyo Co., Ltd. as a normal ring spun yarn 40/1 mixed with rayon / acrylate used in Example 8. And knitted three-layer tengu (see FIG. 12). Next, dyeing and raising were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to prepare a knitted fabric. The obtained knitted fabric was not satisfactory because the heat retention was low, and the fluffs of hardly dyeable fibers were visible from the front and back of the knitted fabric, resulting in a low solid feeling. Table 1 shows details and evaluation results of the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1.

Comparative Example 2
The front and back layers are ester processed yarn 56T / 72f used in Example 1, and the middle layer is a regular ring spun yarn 40/1 mixed with rayon / acrylate used in Example 8, and a double knit LPJ30 "-20G knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Sangyo A cardboard knit (see Fig. 13) knitted in knitting was knitted, and dyeing processing and raising were then carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. A knitted fabric was produced. Fiber fuzz was visible from the front and back of the knitted fabric, resulting in a knitted fabric with a low solid feeling, which was not satisfactory, and details and evaluation results of the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2 are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 3
A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the surface layer (pile) was not raised. The obtained knitted fabric was unsatisfactory because the dyeing fibers (acrylate fibers) contained in the ground yarn were visible when viewed from the pile side. In addition, the heat retention was low.

  According to the present invention, even if yarns having fluff containing functional dyes or the like are used, the front and back of the knitted fabric have a uniform dyed surface and express a deep high-grade color tone. Can provide a pile knitted fabric.

Claims (7)

It has a three-layer structure of reverse pile, the middle layer is composed of spun yarns containing hard-dyeing fibers, the English yarn count of spun yarn is 20-100 count, and the surface pile and back layer have a fineness of 35-90 dtex A knitted fabric characterized in that it is made of a filament yarn, and a pile is raised, the course density and the wale density are both 30 to 45 pieces / inch, and the basis weight is 100 to 250 g / m ² .   The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fineness ratio of the spun yarn constituting the middle layer and the filament constituting the pile is 1: 1 to 1: 4. 3. The spun yarn constituting the middle layer is a fine spinning twisted yarn and / or a compact spin yarn.
The knitted fabric described in 1.   The strength of spun yarn constituting the middle layer is 1.0 g / dtex or more, and the number of 3 mm long fluff is 0.2 to 5.0 pieces / 10 m. The knitted fabric described in 1.   The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the filament yarn constituting the pile has a single yarn fineness of 0.6 to 1.6 dpf.   Resistant fiber is selected from acrylate fiber, polyacrylic acid fiber, modacrylic fiber, polyethylene fiber, polypropylene fiber, polyphenylene sulfide fiber, polyparaphenylene benzoxazole fiber, aramid fiber, liquid crystal polyester fiber, polyacrylate fiber, and vinyl chloride fiber The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the knitted fabric is contained in an amount of 5 to 50% in the spun yarn constituting the middle layer. The thickness is 1.3 to 2.0 mm, the heat retaining property is 25 to 40%, and the air permeability is 100 to 150 cc / cm ² · s. The knitted fabric described.