JP2017179625A - Method for manufacturing knitted fabric - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing knitted fabric Download PDF

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JP2017179625A
JP2017179625A JP2016064915A JP2016064915A JP2017179625A JP 2017179625 A JP2017179625 A JP 2017179625A JP 2016064915 A JP2016064915 A JP 2016064915A JP 2016064915 A JP2016064915 A JP 2016064915A JP 2017179625 A JP2017179625 A JP 2017179625A
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fabric
knitting yarn
knitted fabric
knitting
thickness
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さゆみ 中村
Sayumi Nakamura
さゆみ 中村
弘二 竹内
Koji Takeuchi
弘二 竹内
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Art Bone Planning Co Ltd
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Art Bone Planning Co Ltd
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  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric, enabling flexibly setting the usage of a gray fabric to be manufactured, eliminating an unsold stock, wasting no resource, and enabling a stable manufacture regardless of seasons.SOLUTION: A manufacturing method is for a knitted fabric 10 which has a basic texture 12 formed in the entire width, and a pattern texture 14 applied to a prescribed position of the basic texture 12. A thickness of the knitting yarn of the pattern texture 14 is 2-6 times of that of the knitting yarn of the basic texture 12. A gray fabric is knitted by setting an average number in the entire width of the knitted gray fabric, of the knitting yarn of the pattern texture 14 to 24%-55% of an average number of the knitting yarn of the basic texture 12. When dyeing the gray fabric, dyeing is performed by setting a width in the wale direction of the gray fabric so as to be a desired fabric thickness by shrinkage in dyeing. Fabrics are selectively manufactured from the same gray fabric by a desired setting including from a thin lace-like fabric to a thick fabric for winter.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

この発明は、レース生地やその他衣料の生地として利用可能な編み地の製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric that can be used as a lace fabric or other clothing fabric.

例えば特許文献1、2に示されるチュール編み組織を備えたレース生地や、その他の衣料の編み物の生地は、編み機で編成された直後の生機から、所定の収縮・伸張度合いに設定されて染色工程を経て、種々の用途に生地になる。   For example, a lace fabric having a tulle knitting structure shown in Patent Documents 1 and 2 and a knitted fabric of other clothing are set to a predetermined degree of contraction / extension from a raw machine immediately after being knitted by a knitting machine. After that, it becomes a fabric for various uses.

特開2006−83473号公報JP 2006-83473 A 特開2006−265763号公報JP 2006-265563 A

上記特許文献1,2に開示されチュールレース編み地は、所定の刺繍糸や柄糸により模様が施されて、所望の厚みの生地に仕上げられる。しかし、一般的に衣料やその他布製品は、需要を予測して生産するものであり、特に布地は生産者が各工程により別れており、生産工程における上流側の製造者による編み地は、その生産量を予測してある程度余分に生産しなければならない。編み物の製造において最も上流側の生産品である生機は、欠品になると、下流側の製品製造において大きな問題となるので、余剰な生産をせざるを得ず、過剰在庫や商品サイクルの変化により、多くの売れ残りが生じることも多いものであった。売れ残った生機は、格安で売りさばいたり、廃棄して処分しなければならず、労力や資源の無駄になっていた。   The tulle lace knitted fabric disclosed in Patent Documents 1 and 2 is patterned with a predetermined embroidery thread or pattern thread, and finished into a fabric having a desired thickness. However, in general, apparel and other fabric products are produced by forecasting demand. In particular, fabrics are separated by producers in each process, and knitted fabrics by upstream manufacturers in the production process are It is necessary to predict the production volume and produce some extra. The production machine, which is the most upstream product in knitting production, becomes a major problem in downstream product production if it becomes a shortage, so there is no choice but to produce excess production, resulting in excess inventory and changes in the product cycle. In many cases, there was a lot of unsold sales. Unsold machines were sold at a low price or had to be discarded and disposed of, which was a waste of labor and resources.

この発明は、上記背景技術に鑑みて成されたものであり、製造する生機の用途を柔軟に設定可能にし、売れ残りをなくし、資源の無駄がなく、シーズンに関係なく安定な生産を可能にする編み地の製造方法を提供することを目的とする。   The present invention has been made in view of the above-described background art, and can flexibly set the application of the raw machine to be manufactured, eliminate unsold products, eliminate waste of resources, and enable stable production regardless of the season. It aims at providing the manufacturing method of a knitted fabric.

この発明は、全幅に亘って形成された基本組織と、この基本組織の所定の位置に施された柄組織とを有する編み地の製造方法であって、前記基本組織の編み糸の太さに対して、前記柄組織の編み糸の太さが2倍〜6倍であり、前記柄組織の編み糸の、編成される生機の幅全体における平均本数を、前記基本組織の編み糸の平均本数の24%〜55%に設定して前記生機を編成し、前記生機を染色する際に、前記生機のウェール方向の幅を、染色時の収縮により所望の生地厚になるように設定して染色を行い、同じ生機から薄い生地から厚い生地まで、前記設定により任意に前記所望の生地厚に製造する編み地の製造方法である。   The present invention is a method of manufacturing a knitted fabric having a basic structure formed over the entire width and a handle structure applied to a predetermined position of the basic structure, and the thickness of the knitting yarn of the basic structure On the other hand, the thickness of the knitting yarn of the pattern structure is 2 to 6 times, and the average number of the knitting yarn of the pattern structure in the entire width of the knitting machine is the average number of the knitting yarn of the basic structure. When the raw machine is knitted by setting it to 24% to 55% and dyes the live machine, the width in the wale direction of the live machine is set to a desired fabric thickness by shrinkage during dyeing. The knitted fabric is manufactured from the same raw machine to the desired fabric thickness according to the setting from thin fabric to thick fabric.

前記基本組織を形成した編み糸は、合成樹脂の繊維から成る編み糸である。また、前記柄組織を形成した編み糸は、短繊維の編み糸でも良い。   The knitting yarn forming the basic structure is a knitting yarn made of synthetic resin fibers. Further, the knitting yarn forming the pattern structure may be a knitting yarn of short fibers.

前記生機を染色する際に、前記生機のウェール方向の幅を所定の値に設定して、染色時の収縮を調節して、レース調の生地または冬用の地厚の生地を選択的に製造するものである。   When dyeing the raw machine, the width in the wale direction of the raw machine is set to a predetermined value, and the shrinkage at the time of dyeing is adjusted to selectively produce the fabric of lace-like fabric or winter ground thickness To do.

この発明の編み地の製造方法によれば、1種類の生機で、編み目に空間の多いレース生地や、布厚が厚い冬用の生地等に形成することができ、無駄なく生機を使用することができる。これにより、編み地の製造を、過剰な在庫や欠品が生じることがなく、年間を通して安定な生産が可能となる。   According to the method for producing a knitted fabric of the present invention, it is possible to form a lace fabric having a lot of space in the stitches or a winter fabric having a thick cloth with one kind of raw machine, and use the raw machine without waste. Can do. As a result, it is possible to produce knitted fabrics stably throughout the year without excessive inventory and shortage.

この発明の一実施形態の生機の編組織を示す模式図である。It is a schematic diagram which shows the knitting structure of the raw machine of one Embodiment of this invention. この実施形態の編み地の製造工程を説明するフローである。It is a flow explaining the manufacturing process of the knitted fabric of this embodiment.

以下、この発明の実施形態の編み地の製造方法について、図面に基づいて説明する。この発明の一実施形態の編み地10は、図1に示すように、基本組織であるチュール組織12に柄組織14が施されたレース生地である。チュール組織12は、亀甲状の組織に形成され規則的に並んだ編み目である空間12aを有している。チュール組織12に設けられる柄組織14は、編み糸により、所定の筬により、チュール組織12に加えて編成される。   Hereinafter, a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. A knitted fabric 10 according to an embodiment of the present invention is a lace fabric in which a pattern structure 14 is applied to a tulle structure 12 which is a basic structure, as shown in FIG. The tulle structure 12 has a space 12a that is a stitch formed in a turtle-shaped structure and arranged regularly. The handle structure 14 provided in the tulle structure 12 is knitted in addition to the tulle structure 12 by knitting yarn and by a predetermined fold.

編み地10を構成する編み糸は、チュール組織12の編み糸の太さに対して、柄組織14の編み糸の太さが2倍〜6倍、好ましくは4倍〜5倍の太さに設定される。例えばチュール組織12の編み糸の太さが30デニールの場合、柄組織14の編み糸は、60デニール〜180デニールに設定される。柄組織14の編み糸がこれより細いと、収縮させて編み地を形成したときの生地厚が十分に厚くならず、編み糸の太さが上記値よりも太いと、夏用のレース調の生地には適さないという問題があるからである。   The knitting yarn constituting the knitted fabric 10 is 2 to 6 times, preferably 4 to 5 times thicker than the knitting yarn of the tulle structure 12. Is set. For example, when the thickness of the knitting yarn of the tulle structure 12 is 30 denier, the knitting yarn of the pattern structure 14 is set to 60 denier to 180 denier. If the knitting yarn of the pattern structure 14 is thinner than this, the fabric thickness when the knitted fabric is formed by contraction will not be sufficiently thick, and if the thickness of the knitting yarn is larger than the above value, the lace tone for summer This is because there is a problem that it is not suitable for the dough.

さらに、柄組織14の編み糸の、編成される生機の幅全体における平均本数が、チュール組織12の編み糸の平均本数の24%〜55%、好ましくは30%〜45%に設定される。柄組織14の編み糸平均本数がこれより少ないと、収縮させて編み地を形成したときの生地厚が十分に厚くならず、柄組織14の編み糸平均本数がこれより多いと、十分な空間が編み目にできない状態になり、夏用のレース調の生地には適さないという問題があるからである。例えば、1インチ当たりチュール組織12の編み糸の本数が28本の場合、柄組織14の編み糸の本数は、7本〜15本となるように柄が設定される。   Furthermore, the average number of knitting yarns of the pattern structure 14 in the entire width of the knitting machine to be knitted is set to 24% to 55%, preferably 30% to 45% of the average number of knitting yarns of the tulle structure 12. If the average number of knitting yarns of the pattern structure 14 is less than this, the fabric thickness when the knitted fabric is formed by contraction will not be sufficiently thick, and if the average number of knitting yarns of the pattern structure 14 is more than this, sufficient space will be obtained. Is not suitable for summer lace fabrics. For example, when the number of knitting yarns of the tulle structure 12 per inch is 28, the pattern is set so that the number of knitting yarns of the pattern structure 14 is 7 to 15.

編み地10の編み糸の種類は、チュール組織12の編み糸の繊維は、ポリエステルやナイロンの合成繊維のモノフィラメント糸で、弾性糸、非弾性糸ともに利用可能であるが、弾性糸が好ましい。柄組織14の編み糸の繊維は、合成繊維のモノフィラメント糸の他、ウールや綿の短繊維の編み糸でも良い。   The type of knitting yarn of the knitted fabric 10 is a monofilament yarn of synthetic fiber such as polyester or nylon, and the yarn of the tulle structure 12 can be used for both elastic yarn and non-elastic yarn, but elastic yarn is preferred. The yarn of the knitting yarn of the handle structure 14 may be a monofilament yarn of synthetic fiber or a knitting yarn of short fibers of wool or cotton.

この実施形態の編み地10の製造は、図2のフローに示すように、先ず、編み機により、所定数の筬を用いて、チュール組織12及び柄組織14の生機を編成する(s1)。ここでは、シーズンに関わりなく、通年で必要な生機を製造する。そして、編成された生機は、ニーズに応じて染色工程に送られ、所定の温度、及び伸縮率で染色される。このとき、シーズン、用途に合わせて、生機から生地にする所定の収縮の割合を設定する(s2)。例えば、夏用の生地として、図1に示すレース調の編み地10を製造する場合、生機の状態からのウェール方向の幅の収縮割合を、最小限の値、例えばウェール方向の幅が5%収縮した状態に設定する。逆に冬用の厚い生地を製造する場合は、収縮率を30%程度に設定する。染色時の温度は、チュール組織12の糸がポリエステルの場合130℃で30分程度、ナイロンの場合80℃〜95℃で60分程度である。この温度での染色時に、何も力を加えないと生機は30%程度縮むが、この実施形態では、染色時の収縮量を、上記の通り最初に設定した所定の値となるように、ウェール方向の幅を設定して染色する(s3)。従って、冬用の生地にする場合、加熱による収縮に任せて染色を行う。これにより、生地厚の厚い冬用の生地ができあがる(s3)。この後、その生地の幅で乾燥し、所望の用途、厚さの編み地である生地が仕上がる(s4)。   In the manufacture of the knitted fabric 10 of this embodiment, as shown in the flow of FIG. 2, first, a knitting machine is used to knitting the tulle tissue 12 and the handle tissue 14 with a predetermined number of folds (s1). Here, we will produce the raw machinery needed throughout the year, regardless of the season. Then, the knitted raw machine is sent to a dyeing process according to needs, and dyed at a predetermined temperature and expansion / contraction rate. At this time, a predetermined shrinkage ratio from the raw machine to the fabric is set according to the season and application (s2). For example, when manufacturing the lace-like knitted fabric 10 shown in FIG. 1 as a fabric for summer, the shrinkage ratio of the width in the wale direction from the state of the raw machine is a minimum value, for example, the width in the wale direction is 5%. Set to contracted state. Conversely, when manufacturing a thick fabric for winter, the shrinkage rate is set to about 30%. The dyeing temperature is about 30 minutes at 130 ° C. when the yarn of the tulle structure 12 is polyester, and about 60 minutes at 80 ° C. to 95 ° C. when nylon is used. When no force is applied during dyeing at this temperature, the living machine shrinks by about 30%, but in this embodiment, the wale is reduced so that the amount of shrinkage during dyeing becomes the predetermined value initially set as described above. The direction width is set and dyed (s3). Therefore, in the case of making a fabric for winter, dyeing is performed by leaving it to shrinkage by heating. As a result, a thick winter dough is produced (s3). Thereafter, the fabric is dried with the width of the fabric, and a fabric which is a knitted fabric having a desired use and thickness is finished (s4).

この実施形態の編み地10は、編成時に、チュール組織12の編み糸に対して、柄組織14の編み糸の太さを2倍〜6倍、好ましくは4倍〜5倍の太さに設定し、さらに、柄組織14の編み糸の、編成される生機のウェール方向の幅全体における平均本数が、チュール組織12の編み糸の平均本数の24%〜55%に、好ましくは30%〜45%に設定して編成を行う。この条件で生機を編成することにより、編成直後の生機の薄い生地の状態から、染色工程において、設定した所望の生地厚の編み地を得ることができる。編み地である生地厚の設定は、染色工程に移す際に、染色時に生機を固定する幅を所定の値に固定し、所望の収縮率になるように設定して染色工程を行う。これにより、生機から編み地を形成する際に、薄いレース調の編み地から、厚い冬用の編み地まで、所望の厚さで所望の用途の編み地である生地を形成することができる。   In the knitted fabric 10 of this embodiment, the thickness of the knitting yarn of the pattern structure 14 is set to 2 to 6 times, preferably 4 to 5 times the thickness of the knitting yarn of the tulle structure 12 during knitting. In addition, the average number of knitting yarns of the handle structure 14 in the whole width in the wale direction of the knitting machine is 24% to 55%, preferably 30% to 45% of the average number of knitting yarns of the tulle structure 12. Set to% and organize. By knitting the raw machine under these conditions, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric having a desired desired fabric thickness in the dyeing process from the state of the thin cloth of the raw machine immediately after knitting. When the fabric thickness, which is a knitted fabric, is transferred to the dyeing process, the dyeing process is performed by fixing the width for fixing the raw machine at the time of dyeing to a predetermined value and setting the desired shrinkage rate. Thereby, when forming a knitted fabric from a living machine, it is possible to form a fabric that is a knitted fabric of a desired use with a desired thickness from a thin lace-like knitted fabric to a thick winter knitted fabric.

この実施形態の編み地10の製造方法によれば、所定の条件の生機を編成し、後の染色工程において生機の収縮の割合を必要に応じた値に設定して染色を行い、所望の編み目の大きさや生地の厚さの編み地を形成することができる。これにより、1種類の生機を編成するだけで良く、シーズンを問わず安定に生機を製造することができ、生機の不足や過剰な生産を無くし、常時適切な生産量で、欠品することなく供給することが可能となる。   According to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric 10 of this embodiment, a raw machine having a predetermined condition is knitted, and in the subsequent dyeing process, the shrinkage ratio of the raw machine is set to a value as necessary, and a desired stitch is obtained. A knitted fabric of a size or fabric thickness can be formed. As a result, it is only necessary to organize one type of raw machine, and it is possible to manufacture the raw machine stably regardless of the season, eliminate the shortage and excessive production of the raw machine, and always keep the appropriate production amount and without missing parts. It becomes possible to supply.

なお、この発明の編み地は、上記実施形態に限定されるものではなく、基本組織は、図1に示す6コースチュール組織以外の4コースチュール組織や、その他各種メッシュの編み組織でも良く、編み目に空間を有した組織であれば良く、柄組織も任意の柄を基本組織に編み込むことができるものである。   The knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiment, and the basic structure may be a 4-course tulle structure other than the 6-course tulle structure shown in FIG. Any structure may be used as long as it has a space, and the pattern structure can be knitted into the basic structure.

10 編み地
12 チュール組織
12a 空間
14 柄組織
10 Knitted fabric 12 Tulle organization 12a Space 14 Pattern organization

Claims (4)

全幅に亘って形成された基本組織と、この基本組織の所定の位置に施された柄組織とを有する編み地の製造方法であって、
前記基本組織の編み糸の太さに対して、前記柄組織の編み糸の太さが2倍〜6倍であり、前記柄組織の編み糸の、編成される生機の幅全体における平均本数を、前記基本組織の編み糸の平均本数の24%〜55%に設定して前記生機を編成し、
前記生機を染色する際に、前記生機のウェール方向の幅を、染色時の収縮により所望の生地厚になるように設定して染色を行い、同じ生機から薄い生地から厚い生地まで、前記設定により任意に前記所望の生地厚に製造することを特徴とする編み地の製造方法。
A method for producing a knitted fabric having a basic structure formed over the entire width and a pattern structure applied to a predetermined position of the basic structure,
The thickness of the knitting yarn of the pattern structure is 2 to 6 times the thickness of the knitting yarn of the basic structure, and the average number of the knitting yarn of the pattern structure over the entire width of the knitting machine , Knitting the raw machine set to 24% to 55% of the average number of yarns of the basic structure,
When dyeing the green machine, the width in the wale direction of the green machine is set to a desired fabric thickness by shrinkage during dyeing, and from the same machine to thin fabric to thick fabric, A method for producing a knitted fabric, characterized by optionally producing the desired fabric thickness.
前記基本組織を形成した編み糸は、合成樹脂の繊維から成る編み糸である請求項1記載の編み地の製造方法。   The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitting yarn forming the basic structure is a knitting yarn made of synthetic resin fibers. 前記柄組織を形成した編み糸は、短繊維の編み糸である請求項1記載の編み地の製造方法。   The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitting yarn forming the pattern structure is a knitting yarn of short fibers. 前記生機を染色する際に、前記生機のウェール方向の幅を所定の値に設定して、染色時の収縮を調節して、レース調の生地または冬用の地厚の生地を選択的に製造する請求項1,2又は3記載の編み地の製造方法。   When dyeing the raw machine, the width in the wale direction of the raw machine is set to a predetermined value, and the shrinkage at the time of dyeing is adjusted to selectively produce the fabric of lace-like fabric or winter ground thickness The method for producing a knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3.
JP2016064915A 2016-03-29 2016-03-29 Method for manufacturing knitted fabric Pending JP2017179625A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114277490A (en) * 2020-09-28 2022-04-05 谢妙典 Woven fabric, weaving method, and speaker software made of the woven fabric or the fabric woven by the weaving method

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114277490A (en) * 2020-09-28 2022-04-05 谢妙典 Woven fabric, weaving method, and speaker software made of the woven fabric or the fabric woven by the weaving method

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