JP2015189696A - WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION COSMETIC PREPARATION OR EXTERNAL PREPARATION FOR SKIN HOLDING α GEL STRUCTURE IN AQUEOUS PHASE - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To stably and readily prepare and provide a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic preparation or external preparation for skin holding an α gel structure in an aqueous phase which is conventionally difficult to prepare because the α gel structure in an aqueous phase is instable mechanically and chemically.SOLUTION: We found out that by containing, in an aqueous phase as an essential ingredient, (a) straight chain monoalkyl phosphate ester, (b) one or more neutralizer selected from a basic amino acid, an organic base, and an inorganic base, and (c) water, an α gel structure is constructed in the aqueous phase, and further when the aqueous phase is emulsified and dispersed into an oil, a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic preparation or external preparation for skin holding the α gel structure in the aqueous phase can be prepared stably and readily without being affected by types of oily components or emulsifying agents.

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or an external preparation for skin in which an α-gel formed by a linear monoalkyl phosphate salt is held in an aqueous phase.

  Conventionally, in the field of cosmetics, many higher-order structures formed from surfactants or higher alcohols have been used, and their usefulness has been reported (Patent Documents 1 and 2). However, conventional higher-order structures constructed with conventional surfactants and higher alcohols are stable in water, but no examples of applying this to water-in-oil emulsions have yet been reported. This is because the higher-order structure formed in the aqueous phase is weak to mechanical force during emulsification or dispersion, disintegrates during preparation, and the structure changes due to the influence of other components used during emulsification. This is because the effect of mixing with an oil agent is large, and a stable higher-order structure cannot be retained in the water-in-oil emulsion after preparation. Further, the conventional higher order structure has a high concentration of a surfactant and a higher alcohol, and there is a problem that it is difficult to produce a water-in-oil emulsion because the aqueous phase has a high viscosity.

  In addition, although we have reported on a technology related to an α-gel structure using a linear monoalkyl phosphate without blending a higher alcohol (Patent Document 3), this is also stable in water. And only the description about the oil-in-water emulsion and nothing about the water-in-oil emulsion.

JP 2008-115612 A JP2010-280587A JP2013-177367A

  An object of the present invention is to stably and easily prepare a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation having an α-gel structure in an aqueous phase that has not been prepared so far, and to provide it.

  In view of these circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies on the preparation of a stable water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation while maintaining the α-gel structure in the aqueous phase. An α-gel structure is constructed with a monoalkyl phosphate ester and a specific neutralizing agent and water, and then mixed with the outer phase oil and surfactant and / or organically modified clay mineral, etc. Thus, a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or an external preparation for skin having an α gel structure was obtained.

  That is, the present invention includes (a) a linear monoalkyl phosphate ester and (b) one or more neutralizers selected from basic amino acids, organic bases, and inorganic bases in the aqueous phase (c) ) Containing water as an essential component to form an α-gel structure in water and emulsifying or dispersing it in oil. It is an agent.

  The present invention prepares a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation that retains an α-gel structure in water, which could not be conventionally prepared, by using a linear monoalkyl phosphate ester and a specific neutralizing agent. The novel water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or external preparation for skin. The present inventors focused on the fact that a linear monoalkyl phosphate salt can construct a stable α-gel structure at 25 to 30 ° C. near room temperature. It has been found that it is possible to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion composition while maintaining a stable α-gel structure in water.

  Furthermore, unlike the conventional preparations, the novel cosmetics and novel skin external preparations obtained by the present invention have a higher moisturizing effect than conventional water-in-oil emulsion compositions by maintaining an α gel structure in the aqueous phase. And a refreshing feeling of use peculiar to the α-gel structure.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (a) linear monoalkyl phosphate used in the present invention preferably has an alkyl group having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and still more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Such an alkyl phosphate ester having an altered alkyl chain length can be easily synthesized, and an alkyl phosphate ester having an arbitrarily altered chain length can be obtained. In the present invention, one or more of the linear monoalkyl phosphates thus obtained can be used in combination.
Specific examples of the component (b) one or more neutralizers selected from the basic amino acids, organic bases and inorganic bases used in the present invention include bases such as arginine, lysine, histidine and tryptophan. Amino acids, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanediol, aminoethylpropanediol, organic bases such as trishydroxymethylaminomethane, and inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Can be mentioned. Of these, basic amino acids are preferable, and arginine is particularly preferable.
The amount of component (b) to be blended with component (a) is preferably 0.2 equivalents to 1.8 equivalents, more preferably 0.5 equivalents to 1.5 equivalents.

Furthermore, there are no particular restrictions on the oil phase, emulsifier and other components for preparing the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention, and they are used when preparing ordinary water-in-oil emulsions. Any raw material can be used.
The oily component used in the present invention does not affect the α gel structure in the aqueous phase of the present invention due to the composition and properties of the oil, and is particularly limited as long as it is normally used in cosmetics and the like. It is not something. Moreover, these components can also be used in combination. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as squalane and liquid paraffin, vegetable oils such as olive oil, macadamian nut oil, jojoba oil, animal oils such as beef tallow, glyceryl triisooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl isooctanoate, isooctyl palmitate, etc. Esters, dimethyl silicone, phenylmethyl silicone, cyclomethicone and other silicones, ultraviolet sorbents such as ethyl hexyl methoxide, octocrylene, ethyl hexyl salicylate, homosalate, and polysilicone-15. Solid oils, polar lipids, etc. can also be used in the same manner, specifically, higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, and polar lipids. Include ceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, glycolipids, and the like.

  The emulsifiers used in the present invention include surfactants, organically modified clay minerals, etc., but the type does not affect the α-gel structure in the aqueous phase of the present invention, and usually water-in-oil emulsification There is no particular limitation as long as it is used for things. Moreover, these components can also be used in combination. Specific examples of the surfactant include POE alkyl ethers, POE fatty acid esters, POE sorbite fatty acid esters, POE glycerin fatty acid esters, POE / POP alkyl ethers, polysorbates, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerin. Nonionic surfactants such as fatty acid esters, POE-modified silicones, sucrose fatty acid esters, and glycerin fatty acid esters. Anionic surfactants such as fatty acid soaps, sulfate esters, acylated amino acid salts, phosphate esters. There are quaternary ammonium salts and the like. The organically modified clay mineral is preferably a cation-modified clay mineral treated with a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactant, such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite, dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite, and benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite. It is done. Examples of commercially available products include Benton 38VCG (dimethylstearylammonium hectorite) manufactured by Elementis Japan.

The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation having an α-gel structure in the aqueous phase of the present invention is obtained by uniformly mixing an aqueous phase containing components (a) to (c) at 60 ° C. or higher and stirring and cooling to room temperature. To do. Next, it can prepare by adding the aqueous phase prepared previously gradually, stirring arbitrary oil phases.
Further, the cosmetic or skin external preparation of the present invention includes various components that are usually used in cosmetics or skin external preparations, such as active ingredients, moisturizing ingredients, antibacterial ingredients, and viscosity adjustments, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Agents, pigments, fragrances and the like can be added.

As active ingredients, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbate phosphate ester, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbic acid glucoside, arbutin, ellagic acid, lucinol and other NMF components such as amino acids, Examples include water-soluble collagen, elastin, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, anti-roughing agents such as ceramide, anti-aging agents such as retinol and vitamin A acid, various vitamins, and derivatives thereof.
Examples of the moisturizing component include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and the like.

The use of the cosmetic or external preparation for skin according to the present invention is not particularly limited, but it can be applied to various products such as emulsions, gels, creams and hair treatments.
The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the mass% shown below is mass% with respect to the whole composition.

(1) Preparation of sample Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics having an α-gel structure in the water phase were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2. The phase indicated by B in the table was heated and mixed, cooled to room temperature, and the phase indicated by A in the table that had been mixed in advance was then gradually mixed to complete the preparation.

※ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ニコムルスＷＯ：シクロペンタシロキサン、ＰＥＧ−１０ジメチコン、ジステアルジモニウムヘクトライト
※ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＨＥＸＡＧＬＹＮ ＰＲ−１５：ポリリシノレイン酸ポリグリセリル−６
(2) Confirmation of α-gel structure of water phase Confirmation of whether the α-gel structure was retained in the water phase of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic after preparation was observed using a polarizing microscope. The case where the optical anisotropy indicating the presence of the α-gel structure was confirmed under a polarizing microscope was marked with ◯, and the case where the optical anisotropy was not confirmed was marked with ×.

* NIKKOL Nikomurus WO: cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-10 dimethicone, disteardimonium hectorite * NIKKOL HEXAGLYN PR-15: polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate

Moisture cream (A) NIKKOL Nikomurus WO 4.00 (mass%)
Cyclopentasiloxane 26.00
(B) Linear C18 phosphate 3.50
Arginine 1.50
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.50
1,3-butylene glycol 3.00
Glycerin 10.00
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Residual preparation method: B is heated, uniformly dissolved, and then cooled to room temperature. While A is being stirred, B is gradually added. The preparation is completed after uniform stirring.
Confirmation of α-gel structure: Optical anisotropy was confirmed in the aqueous phase with a polarizing microscope.

Hair Treatment (A) NIKKOL Nikomurus WO 3.00 (mass%)
NIKKOL HEXAGLYN PR-15 1.50
Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00
Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 5.00
Amodimethicone 1.00
Panthenol 0.50
(B) Linear C20 phosphate 3.00
Linear C32 phosphate 0.50
Sodium chloride 0.50
Triethanolamine 1.00
1,3-butylene glycol 8.00
Glycerin 5.00
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Residual preparation method: B is heated, uniformly dissolved, and then cooled to room temperature. While A is being stirred, B is gradually added. The preparation is completed after uniform stirring.
Confirmation of α-gel structure: Optical anisotropy was confirmed in the aqueous phase with a polarizing microscope.

Whitening milk (A) NIKKOL HEXAGLYN PR-15 4.00 (mass%)
NIKKOL DGMIS 2.00
NIKKOL VC-IP 3.00
Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 20.00
(B) Linear C20 phosphate 3.00
Arginine 1.20
Glycerin 8.00
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Residual preparation method: B is heated, uniformly dissolved, and then cooled to room temperature. While A is being stirred, B is gradually added. The preparation is completed after uniform stirring.
Confirmation of α-gel structure: Optical anisotropy was confirmed in the aqueous phase with a polarizing microscope.
* NIKKOL DGMIS: Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate
* NIKKOL VC-IP: Ascorbyl tetrahexyldecanoate

Sunscreen milk (A) cyclopentasiloxane 20.00 (mass%)
Ethylhexyl palmitate 3.00
PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 1.00
Dimethicone (6cs) 12.50
Titanium oxide 10.00
Zinc oxide 10.00
PEG-10 Dimethicone 4.00
(B) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
Glycerin 5.00
Sodium chloride 0.50
Linear C24 phosphate 2.50
Triethanolamine 1.00
Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remaining amount preparation method: A and B are heated and dissolved uniformly. B is gradually added while A is being stirred. After uniform stirring, stirring and cooling to room temperature is completed.
Confirmation of α-gel structure: Optical anisotropy was confirmed in the aqueous phase with a polarizing microscope.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation having the α-gel structure in the aqueous phase of the present invention can stably maintain the α-gel structure in the aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsion, which has been difficult to prepare in the past. Thus, it is possible to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or an external preparation for skin, which has a new dosage form.

Claims (3)

A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation having an α-gel structure in an aqueous phase, comprising the following (a) to (c) as essential components in the aqueous phase.
(A) linear monoalkyl phosphate ester (b) one or more neutralizers selected from basic amino acids, organic bases and inorganic bases (c) water The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation having an α-gel structure in the aqueous phase according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl group of the component (a) has 12 to 36 carbon atoms. The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or external preparation for skin having an α-gel structure in the aqueous phase according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a) has a monoester content of 90% or more.