JP2015086488A - Polyester monofilament crimped yarn and woven or knitted fabric including the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester monofilament crimped yarn that is highly crimped, excellent in yarn separation from a polyester multifilament crimped yarn as a parent yarn, and hard to cause yarn slippage and pirn irregularity, and is suitable for forming a woven or knitted fabric excellent in a feeling and texture.SOLUTION: The polyester monofilament crimped yarn has a single fiber fineness of 3-30 dtex and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less. The number of crimp crests is 50-200/m. The crimp elongation A is 10-30%. The crimp elongation B after a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes at 130°C in a free state is 30-60%. The difference in crimp elongation before and after the wet heat treatment (B-A) is 10-30%.

Description

  The present invention relates to a polyester monofilament crimped yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the same.

  Monofilament splitting yarns are called straight splitting yarns obtained by splitting multifilament yarns one by one (see, for example, Patent Document 1), false twisting of multifilament yarns, and one by one There is what is called Woolley splitting yarn obtained by splitting (see, for example, Patent Document 2). These monofilament splitting yarns are mainly used in the curtain field, bridal field, and the like, and are particularly preferably used as a light and tension thin fabric knitted fabric for organdy.

  When the multifilament yarn is false twisted, crimps are imparted to the monofilament split yarn, so that the soft feeling and volume feeling of the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the monofilament split yarn are increased. Further, since the monofilament split yarn is composed of a single yarn, the texture derived from the characteristics of the yarn is strongly reflected when a woven or knitted fabric is used. Therefore, for example, in the case of wooly split yarn, since the yarn is composed of a single yarn and has crimps, when touching a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving and knitting wooly split yarn In addition, it may feel close to point contact.

  Furthermore, in the Woolly splitting yarn, since the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is deformed by false twisting, a feeling close to point contact in the woven or knitted fabric is promoted, and there is a tendency to feel a rough feeling or a sharp feeling. In addition, when the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is deformed, it becomes easy to suppress slippage between the single yarns. For this reason, the Woolly splitting yarn has an advantage that the misalignment when the woven or knitted fabric can be effectively suppressed as compared with the straight splitting yarn. In particular, the organdy thin plain knitted fabric tends to be misaligned because the density of the woven and knitted fabric is coarsened from the viewpoint of expressing transparency. Therefore, it is possible to effectively suppress misalignment by using Woolley splitting yarn for organdy.

Japanese Patent No. 5247296 Japanese Patent No. 3964694

  Generally, it is said that the texture of a woven or knitted fabric can be improved by using a highly crimped Woolley splitting yarn. However, when a strong crimp is applied to the multifilament yarn in order to obtain a Woolly split yarn having a strong crimp, there is a problem that the single yarns are converged and are later difficult to split. Therefore, a technique for obtaining a Woolly splitting yarn without giving strong crimp to the multifilament yarn is widely adopted. However, when the crimp is weakened, not only is the texture and texture of the woven or knitted fabric difficult to improve, but the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is hardly deformed, and it is difficult to suppress misalignment of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, if the crimp applied to the multifilament yarn is weak, the fluctuation in tension when the split yarn package is unwound cannot be sufficiently relaxed, and unwinding may occur. As a result, streaky defects (pambique) are likely to appear on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

  The present invention eliminates the disadvantages of the prior art described above. That is, the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric that is excellent in splitting properties from a polyester multifilament crimped yarn that is a parent yarn while being highly crimped, is less likely to cause misalignment and perennial, and has excellent texture and texture. The main object is to provide a polyester monofilament crimped yarn suitable for construction. Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric using the polyester multifilament crimped yarn. The polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is particularly suitable for woven and knitted fabrics such as organdy use and curtain use.

  The present inventor has repeatedly investigated the cause of a desired effect not being obtained on excellent splitting properties when a strong crimp is applied to the multifilament yarn based on the conventional method. As the crimp of the filament yarn is strengthened, the crimp shape of the multifilament crimp yarn becomes like a large arc, and as a result, there are many parts where single yarns are easily aligned, It was thought to be a factor that lowered the sex. Therefore, the present inventor has repeatedly studied factors that can reduce the crimp shape without reducing the strength of crimp. As a result, when the multifilament yarn is false twisted so that the number of crimps of the single yarn and the crimp elongation rate before and after wet heat treatment of the single yarn satisfy the specified ranges, the splitting property is maintained without reducing the strength of crimp. It was found that a multifilament crimped yarn excellent in It has been found that if such a multifilament crimped yarn is split, a split yarn having a high crimp and a dense crimp shape can be obtained. Furthermore, it has been found that if the split yarn further develops crimps through post-processing of the woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric structure is tightened and the misalignment is further suppressed. In addition, it has also been found that the expression of Panmbique is relaxed in the process of crimping, and that the knitted and knitted fabric with better texture and texture can be obtained by the expression of crimps. The present invention has been completed by further studies based on these findings.

That is, this invention provides the invention of the aspect hung up below.
Item 1. A polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 30 dtex and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less,
The polyester monofilament crimped yarn has a number of crimps of 50 to 200 pieces / m and a crimp extension rate A of 10 to 30%.
The crimp elongation B after 30% wet heat treatment at 130 ° C. in a free state for the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is 30 to 60%,
A polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a difference in crimp elongation (BA) of 10 to 30% before and after the wet heat treatment.
Item 2. Item 2. A woven or knitted fabric in which the polyester monofilament crimped yarn according to Item 1 is arranged on a warp and weft, the organization is a plain organization, and the cover factor is 300 to 1200.
Item 3. A woven or knitted fabric in which the polyester monofilament crimped yarn according to Item 1 is arranged as a warp, the design yarn is arranged as a weft and the cover factor is 700 to 2000.

  According to the present invention, a polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a highly crimped and dense crimp shape can be provided. In the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention, by making the crimp shape small, it becomes difficult to align the single yarn, and the splitting property from the polyester multifilament crimped yarn is excellent. Moreover, since it has a high crimp, when a woven or knitted fabric is formed using a polyester monofilament crimped yarn, the texture and texture of the woven or knitted fabric are improved. Due to the high crimp and the deformation of the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn, the woven or knitted fabric can be given a sharp feeling, and the misalignment of the woven or knitted fabric can be effectively suppressed. In addition, the unwindability of the package in which the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is wound is also good, and it is difficult for the perturbation to occur. The woven or knitted fabric using the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is particularly suitable for organdy use and curtain use.

It is a schematic diagram for demonstrating the crimp shape of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of this invention. It is a schematic diagram for demonstrating the process 1 (process of obtaining a parent yarn) in the preferable manufacturing method for obtaining the crimped yarn of this invention.

1. Polyester monofilament crimped yarn The polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 3 to 30 dtex, preferably about 10 to 25 dtex. When the single yarn fineness is less than 3 dtex, handling tends to be difficult, and yarn breakage and entrainment during warp preparation and weaving / knitting are likely to occur, making it difficult to obtain a high-quality woven / knitted fabric. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 30 dtex, it is difficult to obtain a feel close to point contact when a woven or knitted fabric is obtained, and it is difficult to develop a unique crispness derived from polyester monofilament crimped yarn in the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when spinning a base yarn (for example, a yarn for false twisting such as a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn described later), the fineness becomes too thick, so that the inside of the single yarn can be sufficiently cooled. become unable. As a result, the single yarn is easily fused, and the operability is lowered when the parent yarn (polyester multifilament crimped yarn) is split later.

  In the present invention, the single yarn fineness is a value obtained by measurement as follows. First, a polyester monofilament crimped yarn is cut into a length of 90 cm based on JIS L1013. Next, using an electronic balance (manufactured by Abrasive Industry Co., Ltd.) capable of measuring the number of grams up to 5 digits after the decimal point, the mass of five polyester monofilament crimped yarns was measured, the fineness was calculated, and the average was calculated as a single yarn. Fineness.

  Further, the hot water shrinkage of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is 10% or less, preferably about 3 to 8%. When the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 10%, the knitted or knitted fabric may be greatly shrunk through a series of post-processing described later, and the dimensional stability may be lowered. Further, as the polyester monofilament crimped yarn contracts, the monofilament fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn tends to increase, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of imparting a desired texture to the woven or knitted fabric. The hot water shrinkage rate of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is a value measured based on JIS L1013.

  Moreover, the crimp elongation (A) of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is 10 to 30%, preferably about 20 to 30%. In the present invention, the crimp elongation rate is a numerical value of the degree of crimp of a polyester monofilament crimped yarn. When the crimp elongation ratio is less than 10%, it becomes difficult to give the woven or knitted fabric a sharp feeling. On the other hand, when it exceeds 30%, handling becomes difficult, and the process passability of the weaving and knitting process tends to decrease.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, the crimp elongation (B) of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn after the wet heat treatment is 30 to 60%, preferably about 35 to 60%. In the present invention, when the crimp elongation ratio (B) is in such a range, an appropriate crimp can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric through post-processing of the woven or knitted fabric. When the woven or knitted fabric is crimped, the woven or knitted fabric structure is tightened and the misalignment is further suppressed. In addition, the expression of Panmbique is further eased during the crimping process. Furthermore, the expression of crimps in the woven or knitted fabric is preferable for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric that is more excellent in terms of texture and texture, and is particularly preferable for imparting an appropriate sharp feeling to the woven or knitted fabric.

  In order to measure the crimp elongation rate of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn, first, while applying a tension of 0.2 cN / dtex to the polyester monofilament crimped yarn, until the total fineness becomes about 2500 dtex, the frame circumference is 1.125 m. Use a measuring instrument to remove the cake and leave it in a free state at room temperature overnight. Next, a tension of 0.2 cN / dtex is applied to the case with two kinds of loads (first load: 2.5 g, second load: 497.5 g), and the length X after being left for 10 seconds is measured. Subsequently, the second load is removed (the first load is left attached), and the length Y after being left for 10 seconds is measured. Then, it calculates based on the type | formula of crimp expansion | extension rate (%) = (XY) / Xx100. The crimp elongation rate is measured for five polyester monofilament crimped yarns, and the average is taken as the crimp elongation rate of the yarn.

  When measuring the crimp elongation (B) after the wet heat treatment, first, the casserole obtained by winding the polyester monofilament crimped yarn as described above is put into an autoclave (manufactured by Hirayama Seisakusho Co., Ltd.), and is heated at 130 ° C. for 30 High pressure moist heat treatment in a free state for a minute. The crimp elongation ratio (B) after the wet heat treatment is a value calculated based on the same formula by applying the same load to the polyester monofilament crimped yarn after the wet heat treatment. The crimp elongation rate of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn before the wet heat treatment is the above-described crimp elongation rate (A).

  In the present invention, the difference in the crimp elongation rate before and after the wet heat treatment, that is, the difference between the crimp elongation rate (B) of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn after the wet heat treatment and the crimp elongation rate (A) (B− A) is 10 to 30%, preferably about 15 to 27. When the difference in crimp elongation (B-A) before and after the wet heat treatment is less than 10%, the woven or knitted fabric can not overcome the restraint of the tissue points and can not be crimped, and a further effect of suppressing the misalignment can be expected. Disappear. At the same time, it becomes difficult to give the woven or knitted fabric a texture such as a voluminous feel or a sharp feeling. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30%, the feeling of fluffiness due to the occurrence of crimping becomes dominant in the woven or knitted fabric, and the sharpness is not felt.

  FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram for explaining a crimp shape of a polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention, and shows a side surface of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn. In the present invention, since a polyester multifilament crimped yarn having a moderately dense crimp shape can be obtained, the polyester monofilament crimped yarn obtained therefrom also has a dense crimp shape. The number of crimps of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is 50 to 200 / m, preferably about 70 to 160 / m. When the number of crimp ridges is less than 50 / m, it cannot be said that the crimps are high, and the knitted or knitted fabric does not feel sharp. On the other hand, when it exceeds 200 pieces / m, the crimped form is too strong, the sharpness when made into a woven or knitted fabric is emphasized, and the texture becomes hard. For this reason, it becomes inappropriate as a woven or knitted fabric for organdy use.

  To measure the number of crimps of a polyester monofilament crimped yarn, first cut the polyester monofilament crimped yarn to an appropriate length, then apply a load of 0.1 cN / dtex and mark every 30 cm in that state. wear. Thereafter, the load is removed, the number of locations where the height difference h between the crimp-shaped peak a and the valley b is 2 mm or more is counted, and the number converted to that per meter is defined as the number of crimp peaks.

  The polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention is excellent in splitting properties from a polyester multifilament crimped yarn that is a parent yarn while being highly crimped, hardly generates misalignment and permbique, and has excellent texture and texture. Suitable for composing woven and knitted fabrics. Therefore, the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention can be suitably used for the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention as described later.

2. Method for Producing Polyester Monofilament Crimped Yarn The polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention includes, for example, a step of obtaining a parent yarn by false twisting a base yarn (step 1) and a step of dividing the parent yarn (step 2). ). In the present invention, for example, the polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a highly crimped and dense crimp shape is obtained by the following steps.

(Step 1: Step of obtaining polyester multifilament crimped yarn)
In step 1, first, a base yarn is prepared. As the base yarn, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn may be prepared. By using the polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn (highly oriented unstretched fiber) constituting the polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn can be appropriately deformed in the stretch false twist described later, and later woven The misalignment at the time of making a knitted fabric can be effectively suppressed. In addition, when the drawn yarn is false twisted, the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is not easily deformed, and it is difficult to suppress the misalignment when the knitted fabric is formed.

  In the present invention, the polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn refers to a multifilament yarn wound by spinning a polyester polymer such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET) at a speed of about 2000 to 4000 m / min. As long as the effects of the present invention are exhibited, the polyester polymer may contain a modifier such as a matting agent, a stabilizer, a flame retardant, and a colorant, and may be dyeable with a cationic dye, heat shrinkable, etc. The function imparting component may be copolymerized or blended. The polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn is constituted by a bundle of a plurality of highly oriented unstretched fibers. As described later, the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is preferably drawn and twisted under predetermined conditions to become a polyester multifilament crimped yarn as a parent yarn. Further, the polyester multifilament crimped yarn is split into a polyester monofilament crimped yarn in the splitting step of step 2 described later. That is, the highly oriented unstretched fiber constituting the highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn becomes the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention.

  As the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, for example, it is preferable to use a yarn having a total fineness of about 180 to 400 dtex and a filament number (number of highly oriented unstretched fibers) of about 6 to 16. Such polyester highly oriented undrawn yarns are preferred for organdy use, curtain use, and the like from the viewpoints of operational stability, texture of woven or knitted fabric, and the like. Further, the elongation of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is preferably about 100 to 140%, for example, from the viewpoint of operational stability.

  The cross-sectional shape of the highly oriented unstretched fiber is not particularly limited, and includes various atypical cross-sectional shapes in addition to a round cross-section. For example, a plurality of hardly alkali-soluble polyester components having a wedge-shaped cross section may be connected with an easily alkali-soluble polyester component so that the entire fiber has a round cross-sectional shape. In this case, the alkali-insoluble polyester component can be divided and taken out by incorporating an alkali elution treatment in the middle of post-processing.

  In step 1, the polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn is preferably stretch false twisted with an appropriate false twister. Generally, the false twisting method is roughly classified into a spindle method and a friction method. In step 1, any of these methods can be adopted. Generally, as the false twisting tool, a pin type is used for the spindle method, and a disk type is used for the friction method.

  Step 1 will be described in detail with reference to FIG. First, the package 1 of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10 as the base yarn is placed on the creel, and the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10 is introduced into the feed roller 2. Next, the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10 is pulled out from the delivery roller 5 through the heater 3 and the false twisting tool 4. Here, the stretched false twist region is between the feed roller 2 and the delivery roller 5 of FIG. Specifically, the twisting zone T1 is between the feed roller 2 and the false twisting tool 4, and the untwisting zone T2 is between the false twisting tool 4 and the delivery roller 5.

  The speed (yarn speed) for drawing the yarn from the delivery roller 5 is preferably about 80 to 150 m / min for the spindle method, and about 400 to 600 m / min for the friction method. When the yarn speed is lower than the above range, the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained by any of the methods tends to have too much crimp. For this reason, single yarns are easily entangled with each other, and the splitting property in the splitting step described later tends to be reduced. On the other hand, when the yarn speed exceeds the above range, in the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained by any method, the crimp tends to be weak and it is difficult to give a desired texture and texture to the woven or knitted fabric.

  The heater temperature of the heater 3 is preferably about 150 to 200 ° C. in the spindle system. On the other hand, in the case of the friction system, for example, about 200 to 300 ° C. is preferable in the case of a point contact heater used through a guide. If the heater temperature falls below these ranges, strong crimps may not be imparted by either method. On the other hand, if it exceeds these ranges, the single yarns are easily fused with each other, and a polyester multifilament crimped yarn having excellent splitting properties may not be obtained.

  Moreover, as a draw ratio of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10, about 1.5 to 1.7 times is preferable in any method. In step 1, the stretching ratio refers to the ratio of the surface speed of the feed roller 2 to the surface speed of the delivery roller 5 (stretching ratio = surface speed of the delivery roller 5 / surface speed of the feed roller 2). When the draw ratio is less than 1.5, the elongation of the polyester multifilament crimped yarn becomes high. In this case, when the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is knitted and knitted and subjected to a series of post-processing after the splitting step described later, the shape change of the woven or knitted fabric becomes large, and the texture and texture are lowered. On the other hand, when the draw ratio exceeds 1.7 times, in addition to an increase in yarn breakage, a polyester multifilament crimped yarn with a lot of fluff is formed, and the fiber separation property is lowered.

In the spindle system, the pin-type false twisting tool 4 is rotated by the rotation of the spindle, and the yarn is twisted. The degree of twisting at this time, that is, the false twisting coefficient is preferably 20000 to 30000, and more preferably 22000 to 28000. The false twist coefficient is calculated by the equation K = T × D ^1/2 . In the formula, K is a false twist coefficient, T is the number of false twists (T / M), and D is the total fineness (dtex) of the polyester multifilament crimped yarn. The number of false twists is calculated by T = spindle rotation speed (rpm) / delivery roller 5 surface speed (m / min). When the false twisting coefficient is less than 20000, the crimp becomes weak and the crimp shape of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn becomes large. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30000, the crimp shape of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn becomes too dense, and the single yarns of the polyester multifilament crimped yarn are easily entangled, and as a result, the splitting property tends to decrease.

  On the other hand, in the friction system, generally, the degree of twisting is not managed by the false twisting coefficient, but by the K value and the number of disks. This is due to the difference between the two twisting mechanisms. K value means the ratio (F2 / F1) of untwisting tension (F2) and twisting tension (F1). F2 is the yarn tension immediately after passing through the disk, and F1 is introduced into the disk. The last thread tension. In the friction system, twist is applied by the rotation of the disk. Therefore, the degree of twisting is determined by the disk speed and the number of disks. However, since managing the disk speed directly is not very efficient in process management, it is generally efficient to manage the K value in view of the fact that the K value fluctuates due to fluctuations in the disk speed. It is said that there is.

  In the friction system, a disk made of polyurethane is generally used. In general, the number of disks is preferably 5-7. Further, the K value is preferably about 0.6 to 1.3. When the K value is less than 0.6, in addition to the increase in yarn breakage, there are cases where the polyester multifilament crimped yarn has a lot of fluff and the splitting property may decrease. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.3, surging tends to occur, and it may be difficult to obtain a polyester multifilament crimped yarn having excellent splitting properties. Surging refers to a state in which the twisted twist is not unwound in the untwisting region and the twist remains, that is, a state in which the fiber is not opened.

  In the production method of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyester multifilament crimped yarn having a moderately dense crimp shape by the above-described step 1. In particular, in step 1, from the viewpoint of obtaining a polyester multifilament crimped yarn having an appropriate crimp shape, it is preferable to set the specific temperature while twisting the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10.

  In step 1, a polyester multifilament crimped yarn is obtained by drawing false twist of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 10 under the above conditions. The method for producing a crimped yarn may further include a winding step of winding the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained in Step 1 around a roller or the like before being subjected to Step 2 (fiber separation step) described later. Alternatively, the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained in step 1 may be directly used in step 2. In the winding process, for example, as shown in FIG. 2, the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained through the delivery roller 5 is passed through the second delivery roller 6 and then wound as a package 8 through the winding roller 7. Can be done by taking. Although it does not specifically limit as a shape of the package 8 which wound up the polyester multifilament crimped yarn, Generally cheese shape and cone shape are preferable.

(Process 2: Separation process)
The method for producing a crimped yarn includes a splitting step for splitting the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained in step 1. Splitting refers to dividing a multifilament crimped yarn into single yarns. The single yarn obtained by splitting the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained in step 1 is the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention.

  The splitting method of the polyester multifilament crimped yarn is not particularly limited, and can be performed using, for example, a commercially available splitting device. As the splitting device, for example, a device including a yarn supplying unit, a fiber opening unit, and a winding unit can be used. The separation process can be performed, for example, as follows. First, the polyester multifilament crimped yarn obtained in step 1 is drawn out from the yarn supply unit of the fiber splitting device and introduced into the fiber opening unit. The pulling tension is usually preferably 1.5 cN / dtex or less, more preferably about 0.5 to 1.0 cN / dtex. At this time, a package on which the polyester multifilament crimped yarn is wound may be set at a predetermined position of the yarn supply unit. The opening portion is usually provided with a backlash, and the multifilament crimped yarn is opened by the backlash rotating in the direction opposite to the yarn traveling direction. Thereafter, the opened multifilament crimped yarn is pulled apart to each single yarn, and sent to a separate winding unit to take up each single yarn. The winding tension is usually preferably about 0.5 to 1.5 cN / dtex.

3. Woven knitted fabric The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by using the above-mentioned polyester monofilament crimped yarn, which suppresses the occurrence of misalignment and perennial, and is excellent in texture and texture, particularly for organdy use. And suitable for curtain use. Hereinafter, a preferred woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described in detail.

(Organdy use)
When a woven or knitted fabric for organdy is required, a thin and transparent texture is required. Therefore, it is preferable to dispose the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention in the warp and weft. As the woven or knitted fabric structure at this time, a plain structure may be adopted. As a result, a thin and transparent texture can be realized. If a structure other than the flat structure, for example, twill or satin, is used, not only will the thickness be increased, but the number of tissue points will be reduced, and misalignment is likely to occur.

The cover factor (CF) of the woven or knitted fabric when the woven or knitted fabric for organdy is used may be about 300 to 1200. Here, the cover factor (CF) of the woven / knitted fabric is a numerical value of the density of the woven / knitted fabric, and is calculated by the following equation.
CF = D ^1/2 × warp density (w ^/ 2.54cm) + E ^1/2 × weft density (w ^/ 2.54cm)
[In formula, D shows the single yarn fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn concerning a warp. E shows the single yarn fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn applied to the weft. ]

  Here, when the CF of the organdy woven or knitted fabric is less than 300, the thin and transparent texture is increased, but the number of tissue points is reduced, so that misalignment is likely to occur. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1200, misalignment is less likely to occur, but the thick feeling tends to increase and the transparency tends to decrease.

(Curtain use)
When a woven or knitted fabric for a curtain is used, it is preferable to dispose the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention as a warp and a design yarn as a weft because a texture that is varied such as unevenness is required. If the warp and weft yarns are arranged in reverse, the design yarns are dominant in the woven or knitted fabric, and the texture and texture derived from the polyester monofilament crimped yarns of the present invention are hardly reflected.

  The structure of the woven or knitted fabric for curtain is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, satin weave, twill weave, oblique weave, and woven weave. Examples of the design yarn include slab yarn, nep yarn, core yarn, knot yarn, loop yarn, snarn yarn, covered yarn, silk yarn, sienil yarn, and ring yarn. preferable.

  Moreover, as CF of the woven or knitted fabric for curtain, 700 to 2000 is preferable. When the CF is less than 700, it is difficult to obtain a texture that is rich in change. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2000, the feeling of weight increases and the design yarn becomes dominant, and the texture and texture derived from the polyester monofilament crimped yarn are hardly reflected. The CF of the curtain woven or knitted fabric is calculated by the above formula.

  As described above, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is suitable for use as, for example, a woven or knitted fabric for an organdy or a woven or knitted fabric for a curtain because it is less likely to cause misalignment and puncture and is excellent in texture and texture.

4). Manufacturing method of woven / knitted fabric The woven / knitted fabric of the present invention can be manufactured by weaving and knitting the polyester monofilament crimped yarn of the present invention to obtain a living machine. Weaving and preparation of warp prior to this can be performed using a commercially available apparatus. Moreover, after obtaining a living machine, this is post-processed. The post-processing is usually composed of steps such as scouring, pre-setting, dyeing, and final setting, and may include alkali treatment (weight reduction treatment, elution treatment, etc.) as necessary. Further, ancillary processing such as antistatic processing, antibacterial processing, water repellent processing, hydrophilic processing, antifouling processing, and flame retardant processing may be appropriately incorporated.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the examples. In Examples and Comparative Examples, the single yarn fineness, hot water shrinkage rate, number of crimps, crimp elongation rate (A), crimp elongation rate (B), crimp elongation rate difference (B-A), cover factor ( CF) is a value measured by the above method.

Example 1
A polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn (340 dtex 10f, elongation 132%, birefringence 56 × 10 ⁻³ ) obtained by bundling a plurality of highly oriented unstretched fibers made of PET was prepared.

The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn was introduced into a false twisting process as shown in FIG. As the false twisting method, a friction method (using a disk type false twisting tool) was adopted. The false twist conditions are as shown in Table 1. In addition, the false twist 4 has a disk configuration of six urethane disks having a thickness of 9 mm, and one ceramic guide disk above and below the urethane disk, thereby forming a 1-6-1 sheet. After false twisting, the obtained polyester multifilament crimped yarn (10 filaments) was split using a commercially available splitting device to obtain a polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20.5 dtex. In addition, as the conditions for splitting, a splitting speed of 500 m / min, a delivery tension of 0.8 cN / dtex, and a winding tension of 1.1 cN / dtex were employed. Thereafter, a plain fabric weaving machine was woven using polyester monofilament crimped yarns as warp and wefts, pre-set, high-pressure dyeing, and final set to obtain organdy fabrics. The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 110 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 110 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 996. Here, the cover factor (CF) is a numerical value of the density of the fabric, and was calculated by the following equation.
CF = D ^1/2 × warp density (w ^/ 2.54cm) + E ^1/2 × weft density (w ^/ 2.54cm)
[In formula, D shows the single yarn fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn concerning a warp. E shows the single yarn fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn applied to the weft. ]

(Example 2)
A polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 20.5 dtex used in Example 1 was placed on the warp, and 170 dtex 96f of polyester slab yarn was driven into the warp as a weft. In the subsequent steps, the raw machine was post-processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a curtain fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 110 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 75 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 1476.

(Comparative Example 1)
The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn was changed to that of 550 dtex 10f (elongation 136%, birefringence 56 × 10 ⁻³ ), and the false twist conditions were changed to the conditions shown in Table 1 in the same manner as in Example 1. Thus, a polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 32.7 dtex was obtained. Next, using the obtained polyester monofilament crimped yarn as a warp, a plain weaving machine was woven, and this was scoured, pre-set, high-pressure dyed, and final set to obtain an organdy fabric. The resulting woven fabric had a warp density of 102 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 100 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 1155.

(Comparative Example 2)
The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn was changed to 45 dtex 10f (extensibility 122%, birefringence 53 × 10 ⁻³ ), and the false twist conditions were changed to the conditions shown in Table 1 in the same manner as in Example 1. Thus, a polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 2.7 dtex was obtained. Next, a plain fabric weaving machine was woven using the polyester monofilament crimped yarn as the warp and weft was scoured, pre-set, high-pressure dyed, and final set to obtain an organdy fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a warp density of 250 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 230 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 788.

(Evaluation of splitting properties)
A 6 kg wound drum-shaped package of polyester multifilament crimped yarns was evaluated at a rate at which the single yarn could be split into pieces without breakage. Specifically, in the case of the above examples and comparative examples, since the number of filaments is 10, the multifilament crimped yarn is divided into 10 pieces, and the evaluation was made based on the uncut yarn rate at this time. When splitting can be performed without breaking the yarn, the wound amount of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is 600 g. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: Unthreaded yarn rate 70% or more △: Unthreaded yarn rate 50% or more and less than 70% ×: Unthreaded yarn rate less than 50%

(Evaluation of fabric)
1. The texture fabric was subjected to sensory evaluation according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: Excellent sharpness and volume.
(Triangle | delta): A feeling of sharpness and volume is recognized temporarily, but it is not enough.
X: It cannot be said that it was excellent in both a sharp feeling and a volume feeling.
2. The Painbique fabric was sensory-evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: No streak is recognized.
Δ: Slight streaks are observed.
X: A streaky defect is recognized.
3. Sensory evaluation was performed for the misaligned fabric according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.
○: No misalignment is observed in the dyed fabric.
Δ: Slight misalignment is observed in the dyed fabric.
X: Misalignment is observed in the dyed fabric.

(Consideration of Examples and Comparative Examples)
In Examples 1 and 2 using the polyester monofilament crimped yarn satisfying the predetermined range of the present invention, the fabric obtained from the polyester monofilament crimped yarn obtained by dividing the polyester multifilament crimped yarn is excellent. The texture and texture were also excellent. In addition, no Pambique or misalignment was observed.

  In contrast, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the single yarn fineness of the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is outside the predetermined range of the present invention. In Comparative Example 1, since the single yarn fineness was too thick, a feeling close to point contact could not be obtained, and a unique crisp feeling could not be given to the fabric. Further, since only a part of the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn as the original yarn had a fused portion, the splitting property of the polyester multifilament crimped yarn as the parent yarn was lowered. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 2, since the single yarn fineness was too thin, it was very difficult to handle the yarn, and the resulting woven fabric had many defects such as scratches and holes and was not of good quality. Also, as the texture of the fabric, the soft feeling became dominant, and no sharp feeling was felt.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn package 2 ... Feed roller 3 ... Heater 4 ... False twister 5 ... Delivery roller 6 ... Second delivery roller 7 ... Winding roller 8 ... Polyester multifilament crimped yarn package 10 ... Polyester highly oriented Undrawn yarn

Claims (3)

A polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 30 dtex and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less,
The polyester monofilament crimped yarn has a number of crimps of 50 to 200 pieces / m and a crimp extension rate A of 10 to 30%.
The crimp elongation B after 30% wet heat treatment at 130 ° C. in a free state for the polyester monofilament crimped yarn is 30 to 60%,
A polyester monofilament crimped yarn having a difference in crimp elongation (BA) of 10 to 30% before and after the wet heat treatment.   A woven or knitted fabric in which the polyester monofilament crimped yarn according to claim 1 is arranged on a warp and weft, the organization is a plain organization, and the cover factor is 300 to 1200.   A knitted or knitted fabric for curtains in which the polyester monofilament crimped yarn according to claim 1 is arranged as a warp, the design yarn is arranged as a weft and the cover factor is 700 to 2000.

Images