JP2015059281A - Fabric for handkerchief, and handkerchief - Google Patents

Fabric for handkerchief, and handkerchief Download PDF

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JP2015059281A
JP2015059281A JP2013194049A JP2013194049A JP2015059281A JP 2015059281 A JP2015059281 A JP 2015059281A JP 2013194049 A JP2013194049 A JP 2013194049A JP 2013194049 A JP2013194049 A JP 2013194049A JP 2015059281 A JP2015059281 A JP 2015059281A
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handkerchief
fabric
yarn
fiber
fibers
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JP6254802B2 (en
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河野 敬
Takashi Kono
敬 河野
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Unitika Trading Co Ltd
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  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a handkerchief that is excellent in morphological stability, water absorption, texture, and design.SOLUTION: A fabric for a handkerchief is made with a multilayered thread whose core part is a short fiber of a synthetic fiber and sheath part is a cellulose short fiber. The ratio of the cellulose short fiber of the sheath part and the synthetic fiber of the core part (the cellulose short fiber:the synthetic fiber) in the multilayered thread is from 50:50 to 80:20 on a weight basis.

Description

本発明は、形態安定性、吸水性、風合い、意匠性に優れたハンカチ用布帛及びハンカチに関するものである。   The present invention relates to a handkerchief fabric and a handkerchief which are excellent in form stability, water absorption, texture and design.

従来から、形態安定性に優れ高い吸水性を有するハンカチが要望され、樹脂加工剤や触媒をスプレーまたは浸漬後、遠心脱水し、乾燥、プレス、キュアーする方法が盛んに実施されている。しかし、ホルムアルデヒドにより気相(VP)加工した製品は、形態安定性(繰り返し洗濯後のW&W性、プリーツ性、パッカリング性、保型性など)は優れるものの引張強力、引裂強力、耐摩耗性が著しく低下する問題があった。   Conventionally, handkerchiefs having excellent shape stability and high water absorption have been demanded, and methods of centrifugal dehydration, drying, pressing, and curing after spraying or dipping a resin processing agent or a catalyst have been actively implemented. However, products processed by vapor phase (VP) with formaldehyde have excellent tensile strength, tear strength, and wear resistance, although they have excellent shape stability (W & W properties after repeated washing, pleating properties, puckering properties, shape retention properties, etc.). There was a problem of significant decrease.

また、特許文献1(特開平10−72773号)、特許文献2(特開平10−77573号)にはメチロール化可能な活性水素を少なくとも2ケ有する環状尿素化合物及び潜在性酸性触媒類を付与されたセルロース系繊維含有繊維製品に、セルロースを架橋させることができる薬剤で気相加工することにより、引張強力、引裂強力、耐摩耗性を向上させる方法が提案されているが、セルロースを架橋させる薬剤(ホルムアルデヒドなど)を繊維内部まで浸透させるため強力の低下が顕在する。さらには、ホルムアルデヒドは人体への影響が懸念され濃度によって粘膜への刺激性を中心とした急性中毒があり、取り扱いに細心の注意が必要である。   Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-72773) and Patent Document 2 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-77573) are provided with a cyclic urea compound having at least two methylol active hydrogens and latent acidic catalysts. A method for improving tensile strength, tearing strength, and abrasion resistance by gas phase processing with an agent capable of crosslinking cellulose to a fiber product containing cellulosic fibers has been proposed. A decrease in strength appears because of the penetration of (formaldehyde, etc.) into the fiber. In addition, formaldehyde has an acute poisoning centered on irritation to mucous membranes due to its concern about the effects on the human body, and it needs to be handled with great care.

また、特許文献3(実開平5−80456号)、特許文献4(特開2000−345406号)には、吸水性、風合いに優れたハンカチとして天然繊維と合成繊維からなるハンカチが提案されている。特許文献3には、天然繊維と、単糸繊度が0.001〜0.5デニールの極細合成繊維とを併用し、かつクロス表面の80%以上が合成繊維で覆われるように構成したワイピングクロスは、毛羽脱落が少なく、ワイピング特性に優れるとともに吸水性、保水性、手触りや風合いに優れることが記載されている。
特許文献4には、20〜60wt%の天然繊維と、単糸繊度が0.001〜0.5デニールの極細合成繊維とを併用してなるハンカチが記載されている。特許文献4のハンカチは抗菌加工がされており、ワイピング特性に優れているとともに、吸水性、保水性、手触りや風合いが良く、ワイピング面の毛羽脱落が少なく、工業洗濯を繰り返しても抗菌性の低下が少ないと記載されている。
Further, Patent Document 3 (Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 5-80456) and Patent Document 4 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2000-345406) propose a handkerchief composed of natural fibers and synthetic fibers as a handkerchief having excellent water absorption and texture. . Patent Document 3 discloses a wiping cloth in which natural fibers and ultrafine synthetic fibers having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.5 denier are used in combination and at least 80% of the cloth surface is covered with synthetic fibers. Describes that there is little fluffing off, excellent wiping characteristics, and excellent water absorption, water retention, touch and texture.
Patent Document 4 describes a handkerchief formed by using a natural fiber of 20 to 60 wt% and an ultrafine synthetic fiber having a single yarn fineness of 0.001 to 0.5 denier. The handkerchief of Patent Document 4 is antibacterial processed, has excellent wiping characteristics, good water absorption, water retention, texture and texture, has little fluffing on the wiping surface, and has antibacterial properties even after repeated industrial washing. It is described that there is little decrease.

しかしながらこれらの発明はいずれも、ワイピングクロスが主な用途であって、表面の毛羽脱落を低減する観点から、極細合成繊維を布帛の表面に配する構造であり、天然繊維を用いたハンカチと比較すると風合い面で劣るものであった。   However, in all of these inventions, wiping cloth is the main application, and from the viewpoint of reducing fluff loss on the surface, it is a structure in which ultrafine synthetic fibers are arranged on the surface of the fabric, compared with handkerchiefs using natural fibers. Then, the texture was inferior.

一方、天然繊維を用いたハンカチ生布では、一般に綿糸、40〜80番手(英式番手)の細番手の単糸を経糸及び緯糸に使用し、主として平織組織で製織されるが、単糸の強力が充分でなく、風合いも劣る。また、80〜160番手の双糸を使用した場合は、強力、風合いが向上するが、製造工程が増加し、製造時間が増加するのみならず、製造コストが増加するなどの欠点があった。   On the other hand, handkerchief raw fabric using natural fibers is generally woven with a plain weave structure using cotton yarn, 40 to 80 count (English count) fine yarn as warp and weft. Power is not enough and texture is inferior. In addition, when the double yarn of 80 to 160 is used, the strength and texture are improved, but there are disadvantages such as an increase in manufacturing steps and an increase in manufacturing time as well as an increase in manufacturing cost.

特開平10−72773号公報Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-72773 特開平10−77573号公報JP-A-10-77573 実開平5−80456号公報Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 5-80456 特開2000−345406号公報JP 2000-345406 A

本発明の目的は、合成繊維とセルロース短繊維との混紡糸を用いたハンカチと同等の強力を有し、しかも形態安定性と風合い、吸水性に優れたハンカチ用布帛及びハンカチを提供することにある。   An object of the present invention is to provide a handkerchief fabric and a handkerchief having a tenacity equivalent to that of a handkerchief using a blended yarn of a synthetic fiber and a short cellulose fiber, and having excellent shape stability, texture and water absorption. is there.

本発明者らは鋭意検討した結果、繊維の表面にはセルロース繊維の鞘部を有し、芯部には合成繊維を配した複重層糸を用いて布帛を構成することで、表面のセルロース繊維によって風合いや吸水性が良く、芯部の合成繊維によって速乾性と形態安定性が得られ、混紡糸と同等の強力を有し、意匠性に優れたハンカチ用布帛を得られることを見出し、本発明に到達した。すなわち、本発明の要旨は以下の通りである。   As a result of intensive studies, the inventors of the present invention have formed a fabric using a multi-layered yarn having a sheath portion of a cellulose fiber on the surface of the fiber and a synthetic fiber disposed on the core portion. It is found that a handkerchief fabric having good texture and water absorption, quick drying and shape stability by the synthetic fiber of the core, having the same strength as a blended yarn and excellent in design can be obtained. The invention has been reached. That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.

(1)芯部に合成繊維の短繊維を配し、鞘部にセルロース短繊維を配した複重層糸を用いてなるハンカチ用布帛であって、複重層糸における鞘部のセルロース短繊維及び芯部の合成繊維の比率(セルロース短繊維:合成繊維)が重量を基準として50:50〜80:20であることを特徴とするハンカチ用布帛。
(2)複重層糸の撚係数が、単糸撚の綿式撚係数(K)が2.0以上4.2以下であることを特徴とする(1)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(3)複重層糸が糸染されていることを特徴とする(1)又は(2)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(4)生地厚さが0.2〜1.0mm、生地目付けが50〜150g/mであることを特徴とする(1)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(5)吸水性において、初期、10洗後の吸水性がいずれも10秒以内であることを特徴とする(1)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(6)加工工程において、温度が170〜210℃、加工時間15〜40秒間熱セットを施すことを特徴とする(1)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(7)生地形状が織物であり、カバーファクター(CF)が15〜30、引裂き強さが、たて、よこ共に10N以上、寸法変化率が±1%以下である(1)に記載のハンカチ用布帛。
(8)(1)〜(7)のいずれかに記載のハンカチ用布帛から製造された、ハンカチ。
(1) A handkerchief fabric using a multi-layered yarn in which a short fiber of a synthetic fiber is arranged in a core portion and a cellulose short fiber is arranged in a sheath portion, and the cellulose short fiber and the core in the sheath portion in the multi-layer yarn A handkerchief fabric characterized in that the ratio of the synthetic fibers in the part (cellulose short fibers: synthetic fibers) is 50:50 to 80:20 based on weight.
(2) The handkerchief fabric according to (1), wherein the twist coefficient of the multi-layer yarn is a single-twisted cotton-type twist coefficient (K) of 2.0 or more and 4.2 or less.
(3) The handkerchief fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the multilayer yarn is dyed.
(4) The fabric for handkerchiefs according to (1), wherein the fabric thickness is 0.2 to 1.0 mm, and the fabric weight is 50 to 150 g / m 2 .
(5) The water-absorbing fabric according to (1), wherein the water-absorbing property after initial 10 washing is within 10 seconds.
(6) The handkerchief fabric according to (1), wherein in the processing step, heat setting is performed at a temperature of 170 to 210 ° C. and a processing time of 15 to 40 seconds.
(7) The handkerchief according to (1), wherein the dough shape is a woven fabric, the cover factor (CF) is 15 to 30, the tear strength is 10N or more in width, and the dimensional change rate is ± 1% or less. Fabric.
(8) A handkerchief manufactured from the handkerchief fabric according to any one of (1) to (7).

本発明によれば、表面(鞘側)にセルロース繊維を有する複重層糸を用いることによって、合成繊維とセルロース繊維とを混紡した糸からなるハンカチと比較して風合いに優れ、速乾性、寸法安定性に優れたハンカチを得ることが出来る。また、綿100%のハンカチと比較して強力が高く、意匠性に優れたハンカチを得ることができる。さらには、加工工程において熱セット加工を施すことによって寸法安定性を向上せしめることが出来、セルロースを架橋させることができる薬剤で気相加工する必要がなくなり、コスト的にも排水負荷など環境に及ぼす影響も最低限に留めることが可能になる。   According to the present invention, by using a multi-layered yarn having cellulose fibers on the surface (sheath side), the texture is superior to a handkerchief made of a yarn in which synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers are mixed, quick-drying, dimensional stability A handkerchief with excellent properties can be obtained. In addition, a handkerchief having a high strength and excellent design can be obtained compared to a handkerchief made of 100% cotton. Furthermore, dimensional stability can be improved by applying heat set processing in the processing process, eliminating the need for gas phase processing with a chemical capable of crosslinking cellulose, which also affects the environment such as drainage load in terms of cost. The impact can be kept to a minimum.

以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明で用いる複重層糸は、断面が芯鞘型の二層構造をなし、芯部、鞘部共に短繊維からなるものである。芯部、鞘部共に短繊維からなるとは芯部、鞘部共に複数の短繊維が集合して形成されているという意味であり、短繊維1本から形成されているという意味ではない。また、短繊維とは連続繊維ではない短い繊維(ステープル)を指す。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The multi-layer yarn used in the present invention has a two-layer structure with a core-sheath cross section, and both the core and the sheath are made of short fibers. The phrase “both core portion and sheath portion are made of short fibers” means that both the core portion and the sheath portion are formed of a plurality of short fibers, and does not mean that the core portion and the sheath portion are formed of one short fiber. Moreover, a short fiber refers to the short fiber (staple) which is not a continuous fiber.

本発明で用いる複重層糸の芯部に用いられる合成繊維の短繊維を構成する素材としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリエチレンナフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリチレンテレフタレート、ポリ乳酸等のポリエステル、ナイロン6、ナイロン66等の脂肪族ポリアミド、ビニロン等のポリビニルアルコール系や、ポリパラフェニレンベンゾビスオキサゾール、ポリアクリレート、ポリエチレン、ポリプロピレン等のポリオレフィンなどを例示することができる。好ましくはポリエチレンテレフタレート、ビニロン、ナイロンである。   As a material constituting the short fiber of the synthetic fiber used for the core of the multilayer yarn used in the present invention, polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytritylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, nylon 6, Examples thereof include aliphatic polyamides such as nylon 66, polyvinyl alcohols such as vinylon, and polyolefins such as polyparaphenylene benzobisoxazole, polyacrylate, polyethylene, and polypropylene. Polyethylene terephthalate, vinylon and nylon are preferred.

また、合成繊維の短繊維には、必要に応じて各種の添加剤、例えば、艶消し剤、熱安定剤、消泡剤、整色剤、難燃剤、酸化防止剤、紫外線吸収剤、赤外線吸収剤、蛍光増白剤、などが添加されていてもよい。   In addition, for short fibers of synthetic fibers, various additives as necessary, for example, matting agents, heat stabilizers, antifoaming agents, color modifiers, flame retardants, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, infrared absorbers An agent, a fluorescent brightening agent, and the like may be added.

本発明で用いる合成繊維の短繊維の単糸繊度、繊維長は特に限定されるものではないが、好ましくは単糸繊度として0.6〜1.7dtexが、繊維長として32〜51mmであることが望ましい。   The single yarn fineness and fiber length of the short fibers of the synthetic fiber used in the present invention are not particularly limited, but preferably 0.6 to 1.7 dtex as the single yarn fineness and 32 to 51 mm as the fiber length. Is desirable.

鞘部に用いるセルロース繊維の短繊維としては、綿、麻、竹などの植物繊維、レーヨン、リヨセル、モダール、ポリノジック、キュプラなどの溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維があげられ、中でも綿、レーヨン、リヨセルが好適である。
本発明で用いるセルロース繊維の短繊維の単糸繊度、繊維長は特に限定されるものではないが、単糸繊度として0.5〜3dtexが好ましく、0.7〜1.6dtexがより好ましい。繊維長として30〜60mmが好ましく、35〜55mmがより好ましい。複重層糸を構成する合成繊維及びセルロース繊維としていずれも短繊維を用いることにより、少なくとも一方が長繊維から得られる複重層糸に比べて、得られるハンカチをいっそう柔軟にし、風合いに優れたものとすることができる。
Examples of short fibers of cellulose fibers used for the sheath include vegetable fibers such as cotton, hemp, bamboo, and solvent-spun cellulose fibers such as rayon, lyocell, modal, polynosic, and cupra. Among these, cotton, rayon, and lyocell are preferred. is there.
The single yarn fineness and fiber length of the short fiber of the cellulose fiber used in the present invention are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is preferably 0.5 to 3 dtex, more preferably 0.7 to 1.6 dtex. The fiber length is preferably 30 to 60 mm, and more preferably 35 to 55 mm. By using short fibers as both synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers constituting the multi-layer yarn, at least one of them is made more flexible than the multi-layer yarn obtained from long fibers, and has excellent texture. can do.

本発明で用いる複重層糸は、芯部に配する合成繊維の短繊維の重量比率が、20〜50重量%であることが必要である。芯部の重量比率が50重量%以上では、鞘部のセルロース繊維の低被覆性により、風合いに劣る。また、芯部の重量比率が20重量%以下では、形態安定性に劣ることになるからである。   In the multi-layer yarn used in the present invention, the weight ratio of the short fibers of the synthetic fibers arranged in the core portion needs to be 20 to 50% by weight. When the weight ratio of the core is 50% by weight or more, the texture is inferior due to the low coverage of the cellulose fiber in the sheath. Further, when the weight ratio of the core is 20% by weight or less, the form stability is inferior.

本発明で用いる複重層糸の撚係数は、2.0〜4.2の範囲が好ましい。撚係数Kとは、K=Tw/√S1〔但し、Twは撚数(回/インチ)(1インチ=2.54cm)、S1は紡績糸繊度(英式綿番手)をそれぞれ示す。〕であり、撚係数を2.0〜4.2とすることにより、得られる布帛の強度を一定以上に保ちながら、風合いに優れたものとすることができる。   The twist coefficient of the multilayer yarn used in the present invention is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.2. The twist coefficient K is K = Tw / √S1 [where Tw is the number of twists (times / inch) (1 inch = 2.54 cm), and S1 is the spun yarn fineness (English cotton count). By setting the twisting coefficient to 2.0 to 4.2, it is possible to make the fabric excellent in texture while maintaining the strength of the resulting fabric at a certain level or more.

次に、本発明に用いる複重層糸を得るための方法について述べる。
本発明のハンカチ用布帛に用いる紡績糸は、例えばそれぞれの短繊維からなる粗糸を用意して、芯部に配する合成繊維の短繊維(以下、短繊維Aと称す)からなる粗糸を芯側に、鞘部に配するセルロース短繊維(以下、短繊維Bと称す)からなる粗糸を鞘側に配しながら、同時に精紡する。またはそれぞれの短繊維からなるスライバーを用意し、短繊維Aからなるスライバーを芯側に、短繊維Bからなるスライバーを鞘側に配しながら、同時に粗紡し、後に得られた複合粗糸を精紡することによって製造することが出来る。
Next, a method for obtaining a multi-layer yarn used in the present invention will be described.
As the spun yarn used for the handkerchief fabric of the present invention, for example, a rough yarn made of each short fiber is prepared, and a raw yarn made of a synthetic short fiber (hereinafter referred to as a short fiber A) arranged in the core is used. Spinning is simultaneously performed while a coarse yarn made of cellulose short fibers (hereinafter referred to as short fibers B) disposed on the sheath is disposed on the sheath side on the core side. Alternatively, a sliver made of each short fiber is prepared, and a sliver made of short fiber A is placed on the core side and a sliver made of short fiber B is placed on the sheath side while simultaneously spinning, and the composite roving obtained later is refined. It can be manufactured by spinning.

具体的に前者の方法では、まず一連の紡績工程によって、短繊維A、短繊維Bそれぞれの粗糸を作成する。
次にリング精紡機に各粗糸を導入し、芯側より鞘側の送出量を大きくしながら精紡する。この時、各粗糸を同一ドラフト域へ並行に導入する。導入すべき粗糸としては、基本的に芯側・鞘側それぞれ1本ずつでよいが、紡績糸の被覆性を高める観点から、複数の粗糸を鞘側へ用いて一本の芯側粗糸を覆うといった方法も採用できる。
Specifically, in the former method, first, a roving yarn of each of the short fiber A and the short fiber B is prepared by a series of spinning processes.
Next, each roving is introduced into the ring spinning machine, and spinning is performed while increasing the feeding amount on the sheath side from the core side. At this time, each roving is introduced into the same draft area in parallel. As the roving yarn to be introduced, one core side and one sheath side may be basically used. However, from the viewpoint of improving the coverage of the spun yarn, a plurality of roving yarns are used on the sheath side to form one core side roving. A method of covering the yarn can also be adopted.

一方、後者の方法でも、まず、一連の紡績工程により、短繊維A、短繊維Bそれぞれのスライバーを作成する。次に、粗紡機に各スライバーを導入する。この時、各スライバーを同一ドラフト域へ並行に導入すると同時に、芯側スライバーをフライヤーヘッドから見てドラフト域の外側に、鞘側スライバーを内側に導入する。そして、芯側スライバーにおけるドラフト軸方向(但し、糸進行方向)と、芯側スライバーのフロントローラー最終ニップ点とフライヤーヘッドとを結ぶ(但し、糸進行方向)とのなす角度が、水平面に投影した際に、0〜60°の範囲を満足するように設定する。さらに、鞘側スライバーを芯側にスライバーより速い速度で供給することで、鞘側をやや弛ませる一方で、芯側をやや張った状態にする。
こうすることで、フライヤーの回転による撚りが芯側スライバーへ集中的に伝播される結果、鞘側スライバーを芯側スライバーに巻き付けることが出来る。粗糸を得た後は、公知の精紡機を用いて、精紡することで本発明の複重層糸を得ることが出来る。
本発明では、上記の工程で得られる芯鞘構造の紡績糸を用いることで、形態安定性と風合い、吸水性に優れたハンカチを得ることが出来る。
On the other hand, in the latter method, first, a sliver for each of the short fiber A and the short fiber B is prepared by a series of spinning processes. Next, each sliver is introduced into the roving machine. At this time, each sliver is introduced into the same draft area in parallel, and at the same time, the core-side sliver is introduced to the outside of the draft area and the sheath-side sliver is introduced to the inside as viewed from the flyer head. The angle between the draft axis direction (however, the yarn traveling direction) of the core side sliver and the front roller final nip point of the core side sliver and the flyer head (however, the yarn traveling direction) is projected onto the horizontal plane. At this time, it is set so as to satisfy the range of 0 to 60 °. Furthermore, by supplying the sheath side sliver to the core side at a higher speed than the sliver, the sheath side is slightly loosened while the core side is slightly stretched.
By carrying out like this, as a result of the twist by rotation of a flyer being propagated intensively to a core side sliver, a sheath side sliver can be wound around a core side sliver. After obtaining the roving, the multi-layer yarn of the present invention can be obtained by spinning using a known spinning machine.
In the present invention, a handkerchief excellent in form stability, texture and water absorption can be obtained by using a spun yarn having a core-sheath structure obtained in the above-described process.

本発明のハンカチ用布帛は、上記紡績方法で得られた複重層糸を更に糸染して使用することが好ましい。染色方法を特に限定するものではないが、糸染にはパッケージ(チーズ)染色機によるチーズ染や綛染、その他公知の技術を用いて染色することが可能である。その中において、浴比が小さく、経済的で、糸乱れがないことからパッケージ染色機による染色がより好ましい。   The handkerchief fabric of the present invention is preferably used by further dyeing the multilayer yarn obtained by the spinning method. Although the dyeing method is not particularly limited, the yarn dyeing can be dyed using cheese dyeing or dyeing with a package (cheese) dyeing machine, or other known techniques. Among them, dyeing with a package dyeing machine is more preferable because the bath ratio is small, economical and free from yarn disturbance.

染色前には必要に応じて精練、漂白、シルケット加工をし、その後染色するが、芯部に用いられる合成繊維、及び鞘部のセルロース繊維それぞれを染色することが好ましい。合成繊維、セルロース繊維を染色する染料は、それぞれに適した染料を用いれば良く、合成繊維及びセルロースを同時染色(1浴染法)もしくは、合成繊維側を染色、還元洗浄後、セルロース側を染色(2浴染法)にて染色しても良い。   Before dyeing, scouring, bleaching and mercerization are performed as necessary, and then dyeing is performed, but it is preferable to dye each of the synthetic fibers used in the core and the cellulose fibers in the sheath. The dyes for dyeing synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers may be dyes suitable for them. Synthetic fibers and cellulose may be dyed at the same time (one bath dyeing method), or the synthetic fibers may be dyed, reduced and washed, and then the cellulose side may be dyed. You may dye by (two bath dyeing | staining method).

芯と鞘とを同じ色調となるように染色することが、意匠性などの観点から好ましい。本発明の複重層糸は、鞘側のセルロース繊維が表面を被覆しているが、芯も染色することによってより均一で鮮やかな色調の糸を得ることができ、意匠性の高いハンカチを得ることができる。従来のハンカチはプリントによって様々な意匠を施されることが多いが、本発明のハンカチ用布帛は、多色糸の使用や織組織の設計によって任意の意匠を施される。   It is preferable from the viewpoint of design and the like that the core and the sheath are dyed so as to have the same color tone. In the multi-layer yarn of the present invention, the cellulose fiber on the sheath side covers the surface, but by dyeing the core as well, a yarn with a more uniform and vivid color tone can be obtained and a handkerchief with high design properties can be obtained. Can do. Conventional handkerchiefs are often subjected to various designs by printing, but the handkerchief fabric of the present invention can be arbitrarily designed by using multicolored yarns or designing a woven structure.

次に、紡績、糸染された複重層糸を原糸として用いてハンカチ生機を製織するが、製織機は市販、公知のドビー及びジャカード開口装置を搭載した織機で製織することが出来る。織機においても、シャットル、レピア、グリッパー、エアジェット織機等、公知の織機を用いて製織が可能である。また、ハンカチとしての機能を保持するため、カバーファクター(CF)を規定する必要がある。カバーファクター(CF)としては、15〜30の織物を製織することが望ましい。また、生地厚さが0.2〜1.0mm、生地目付けが50〜150g/mであることが好ましい。 Next, a handkerchief raw machine is woven using the spun and dyed multi-layered yarn as a raw yarn, and the weaving machine can be woven with a loom equipped with a commercially available and known dobby and jacquard opening device. The loom can also be woven using a known loom such as a shuttle, rapier, gripper, air jet loom or the like. Further, in order to maintain the function as a handkerchief, it is necessary to define a cover factor (CF). As the cover factor (CF), it is desirable to weave a woven fabric of 15 to 30. Moreover, it is preferable that the fabric thickness is 0.2 to 1.0 mm and the fabric weight is 50 to 150 g / m 2 .

ハンカチ生機の製織には上述の複重層糸を100%用いてもよいし、他種の糸と交織することも可能である。他種の糸としては、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲内で、綿、絹、毛、ポリエステル繊維、ナイロン繊維等が用いられていても良い。交織する他種糸の割合は、20%以下であることが好ましい。すなわち本発明のハンカチ用布帛中、複重層糸の割合は80%以上が好ましく、90%以上がより好ましく、100%であることが特に好ましい。ハンカチ用布帛中の複重層糸の割合を80%以上とすることにより、ハンカチの加工時に皺の発生をいっそう抑えることができるとともに、形態安定性、吸水性、速乾性、意匠性等にいっそう優れたものとすることができる。   100% of the above-mentioned multi-layered yarn may be used for weaving the handkerchief production machine, and it is possible to interweave with other types of yarn. As other types of yarn, cotton, silk, hair, polyester fiber, nylon fiber, or the like may be used as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. It is preferable that the ratio of the other seed yarns to interweave is 20% or less. That is, in the handkerchief fabric of the present invention, the ratio of the multi-layer yarn is preferably 80% or more, more preferably 90% or more, and particularly preferably 100%. By setting the ratio of the double layer yarn in the handkerchief fabric to 80% or more, generation of wrinkles can be further suppressed during processing of the handkerchief, and further excellent in form stability, water absorption, quick drying, design, etc. Can be.

得られた織物は、以下の工程により加工を行う。毛焼工程においては、織物表面上の毛羽を燃焼により除去する。毛焼工程はピリング防止に効果的であり、風合いや光沢を改善する。毛焼の方法はプロパンガス、ブタンガスを使用するバーナーによるガス式毛焼が望ましい。次工程の糊抜きではオープンソーパーやロータリーソーパーを用いて油剤や糊剤等の精練除去等を施す。糊抜剤はあらかじめ経糸糊剤の成分を調査し、アミラーゼなどの酵素糊抜剤、過硫酸塩、亜臭素酸塩などの酸化糊抜剤等のうち、最適な糊抜剤を選択使用すると良い。糸染工程において、シルケット加工を施していない場合、糊抜工程後に光沢向上、幅セット、防縮性付与のために加工する。その後洗浄し、柔軟仕上げ剤を付与、最後の工程として、形態安定化、幅固定、防縮、しわ除去、風合改善等を目的にヒートセット機による熱セット加工を施す。ヒートセット条件は、芯部の合成繊維に適した条件で行うが、温度170〜210℃×加工時間15〜40秒間とすることができ、180℃〜210℃×20秒程度がより好ましい。   The obtained fabric is processed through the following steps. In the frilling process, fluff on the surface of the fabric is removed by combustion. The hair burning process is effective in preventing pilling, and improves the texture and gloss. As the method of hair burning, gas type hair burning with a burner using propane gas or butane gas is desirable. In the next process, desizing is performed by using an open soaper or a rotary soaper to remove scouring oils and pastes. As for the desizing agent, the components of the warp sizing agent are investigated in advance, and an optimum sizing agent is preferably selected from enzyme sizing agents such as amylase and oxidized sizing agents such as persulfate and bromosalt. In the yarn dyeing process, when mercerization is not performed, it is processed to improve gloss, set width, and impart shrinkage resistance after the desizing process. Then, it is washed and a softening finish is applied. As a final step, heat setting is performed by a heat setting machine for the purpose of stabilizing the shape, fixing the width, shrinking, removing wrinkles, improving the texture, and the like. The heat setting is performed under conditions suitable for the synthetic fiber in the core, but the temperature can be 170 to 210 ° C. × the processing time is 15 to 40 seconds, and is preferably about 180 to 210 ° C. × 20 seconds.

上述の工程によってハンカチ用布帛は製造される。製造されたハンカチ用布帛は、裁断、縫製を含む公知の工程を経て、最終商品であるハンカチとなる。本発明では、上述の構成の複重層糸を上述の工程に供することによって、合成繊維とセルロース短繊維の混紡糸を用いたハンカチと同等の強力を有し、しかも形態安定性と風合い、吸水性に優れたハンカチを得ることが出来る。   The handkerchief fabric is manufactured by the above-described process. The manufactured handkerchief fabric becomes a handkerchief as a final product through known processes including cutting and sewing. In the present invention, the multi-layered yarn having the above-described configuration is subjected to the above-described process, thereby having the same strength as a handkerchief using a blended yarn of synthetic fiber and cellulose short fiber, and having shape stability and texture, water absorption An excellent handkerchief can be obtained.

次に、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらによって限定されるものではない。また、実施例及び比較例における測定及び計算方法は、次の通りである。
(1)カバーファクター
カバーファクターは下記の式で算出した。

Figure 2015059281
Next, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the measurement and calculation method in an Example and a comparative example are as follows.
(1) Cover factor The cover factor was calculated by the following formula.
Figure 2015059281

(2)引裂き強さ
JIS L 1096(一般織物試験方法)D法(ペンジュラム法)に準じ、6.3cm×10cmの試験片をたて方向及びよこ方向にそれぞれ5枚採取し、試験片をエレメンドルフ形引裂き試験機に取り付け、試験片の両つかみの中央で直角に2cmの切れ目を入れる。荷重をかけて切れ目の残り4.3cmを、たて方向、よこ方向に引裂いた時に示す荷重強さ(N)を測定し、それぞれの平均値を算出した。
(2) Tear strength According to JIS L 1096 (general fabric test method) D method (penjuram method), 6.3 cm × 10 cm test pieces were sampled in the vertical direction and the transverse direction, respectively. Attach to a Dorf-type tear tester and make a 2 cm cut perpendicular to the center of both grips of the specimen. The load strength (N) shown when the remaining 4.3 cm of the cut was torn in the vertical direction and the transverse direction under load was measured, and the average value of each was calculated.

(3)寸法変化率
JIS L 1096(一般織物試験方法)G法(電気洗濯機法)に準じ、経40cm、緯40cmの試料を経方向と緯方向の寸法を測定した後、JIS L 0217 103法に従って洗濯、脱水を行い、経方向が垂直に、緯方向が水平になるように吊り下げ、一昼夜乾燥した後、経方向と緯方向の寸法を再度測定し、下記の式で寸法変化率を算出した。
寸法変化率(%)=[(洗濯前の寸法−洗濯後の寸法)/洗濯前の寸法]×100
(3) Dimensional change rate JIS L 1096 (general textile test method) According to the G method (electric washing machine method), after measuring the warp direction and the weft direction dimension of a 40 cm and 40 cm sample, JIS L 0217 103 Wash and dehydrate according to the method, suspend so that the warp direction is vertical and the weft direction is horizontal, and after drying all day and night, measure the dimension in the warp direction and the weft direction again, and use the following formula to determine the dimensional change rate Calculated.
Dimensional change rate (%) = [(size before washing−size after washing) / size before washing] × 100

(4)吸水性
JIS L 1907(繊維製品の吸水性試験方法)の滴下法に準じ、試験片上10mmの高さから水を1滴(約0.04ml)滴下し、水滴が試験片に到達してから水の鏡面反射が完全になくなるまでの時間を測定した時間である。試験片として、初期の吸水性については洗濯前の試験片を、10洗後の吸水性については、JIS L 0217 103法に従って10回洗濯後、脱水を行い、経方向が垂直に、緯方向が水平になるように吊り下げ、一昼夜乾燥した後の試験片を、それぞれ用いた。
(4) In accordance with the dropping method of water absorption JIS L 1907 (water absorption test method for textile products), one drop of water (about 0.04 ml) was dropped from a height of 10 mm on the test piece, and the water drop reached the test piece. This is the time taken to measure the time from when the specular reflection of water disappears completely. As the test piece, the test piece before washing for the initial water absorption, the water absorption after 10 washing, dehydration after washing 10 times according to JIS L 0217 103 method, the warp direction is vertical and the weft direction is Each of the test pieces after being suspended horizontally and dried for a whole day and night was used.

(5)ピリング
JIS L 1076(織物及び編物のピリング試験方法)A法(ICI形試験機を用いる方法)に準じ、経方向、緯方向それぞれ2枚採取した10cm×12cmの試験片を特殊ゴム管に捲きつけ、縫い合わせて両端をビニールテープで止め、試験機の回転ボックスに入れ、連続10時間回転後にピリング判定標準写真を並べて比較判定し、試験結果は小数点以下1桁を0又は5に丸めて求めた数値である。
(5) Pilling JIS L 1076 (woven and knitted pilling test method) According to method A (method using an ICI type tester), two 10 cm x 12 cm test pieces taken in the warp direction and the weft direction were used as special rubber tubes. Sew together, fasten both ends with vinyl tape, put them in a rotating box of the testing machine, and after 10 hours of continuous rotation, align and standardize the pilling judgment standard photographs, round the test result to 1 or 2 decimal places This is the calculated value.

(6)風合い
官能検査により以下の通り評価した。
ソフト:○、普通:△、固い:×。
(6) It evaluated as follows by a texture sensory test.
Soft: ○, normal: △, hard: ×.

(実施例1)
芯成分として、繊度1.45dtex、繊維長38mmのポリエステル短繊維スライバー(A)を、鞘成分として繊度1.15dtexの綿(B)を用意した後、各スライバーを粗紡機に導入し、フライヤーヘッドから見て、(A)をドラフト域外側に、(B)を内側に配置して各々をドラフトし、後に(A)を芯側、(B)を鞘側に配しながら、両者を重ね合わせ、芯の重量比率が40%、鞘の重量比率が60%の複合粗糸を得た。そして、得られた複合粗糸を通常の条件で精紡し、撚数22.8回/インチ、撚方向Z、太さ40番手(英式綿番手)の複重層糸を得た。その原糸を多数の孔を空けたポリプロピレン製チューブにソフトワインドし、高圧パッケージ染織機を用いて精練、シルケット加工処理を施した後、綿側を反応染料、ポリエステル側を分散染料により染色、フィックス処理、湯洗、水洗、油剤付与を実施後、脱水、乾燥後にリワインドを実施し、複数色の糸染パッケージを得た。
上記、糸染した複重層糸を織物設計した経糸配列に従い、部分整経機にて整経した後、ビームに巻取り、糊付けを施し、高速エアジェット織機にて経糸密度110本/インチ、緯糸密度が98本/インチになるよう製織して2/2の綾組織、織幅45インチ、カバーファクター(CF)が24.9のハンカチ生布を得た。
その後、得られたハンカチ生布を毛焼、糊抜、柔軟剤付与後、ヒートセットにて190℃で20秒間熱セットを施した。
Example 1
After preparing a polyester short fiber sliver (A) having a fineness of 1.45 dtex and a fiber length of 38 mm as a core component and cotton (B) having a fineness of 1.15 dtex as a sheath component, each sliver was introduced into a roving machine, and a flyer head As seen from above, (A) is placed on the outside of the draft area, (B) is placed on the inside and each of them is drafted, and afterwards (A) is placed on the core side and (B) is placed on the sheath side, A composite roving having a core weight ratio of 40% and a sheath weight ratio of 60% was obtained. Then, the obtained composite roving was spun under normal conditions to obtain a multi-layer yarn having a twist number of 22.8 times / inch, a twisting direction Z, and a thickness of 40 (English cotton count). The yarn is soft-wound into a polypropylene tube with a large number of holes, scoured and mercerized using a high-pressure package dyeing and weaving machine, then dyed with reactive dye on the cotton side and disperse dye on the polyester side, fixed After the treatment, hot water washing, water washing and oil application, rewinding was carried out after dehydration and drying to obtain a multi-color yarn dyeing package.
The above-mentioned yarn-dyed multi-layer yarn is warped with a partial warp machine according to a warp arrangement designed for woven fabric, wound on a beam, pasted, and warp density of 110 yarns / inch with a high-speed air jet loom. Weaving was performed to a density of 98 / inch to obtain a handkerchief raw fabric having a 2/2 twill structure, a woven width of 45 inches, and a cover factor (CF) of 24.9.
Thereafter, the obtained handkerchief raw cloth was subjected to hair burning, desizing, and softening, and then heat set at 190 ° C. for 20 seconds using a heat set.

(実施例2)
実施例1において、芯の重量比率が20%、鞘の重量比率が80%、撚数27.9回/インチ、撚方向Z、太さ60番手(英式綿番手)の複重層糸を得、高速エアジェット織機にて経糸密度138本/インチ、緯糸密度が125本/インチになるよう製織して2/2の綾組織、織幅45インチ、カバーファクター(CF)が25.5であること以外は、同条件にて加工してハンカチ生地を得た。
(Example 2)
In Example 1, a double layer yarn having a core weight ratio of 20%, a sheath weight ratio of 80%, a twist number of 27.9 times / inch, a twist direction Z, and a thickness of 60 (English cotton count) is obtained. Woven with a high-speed air jet loom so that the warp density is 138 yarns / inch, and the weft density is 125 yarns / inch, a 2/2 twill structure, a woven width of 45 inches, and a cover factor (CF) of 25.5. A handkerchief fabric was obtained by processing under the same conditions.

(比較例1)
実施例1において、ポリエステル短繊維スライバー(A)及び綿(B)をそれぞれ単独でスライバーに紡績した後、重量比40:60にて練条工程でスライバー混紡し、得られた混紡粗糸を通常の条件で精紡すること以外は、同条件にて加工してハンカチ生地を得た。
(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1, the polyester short fiber sliver (A) and cotton (B) were each spun into a sliver alone, and then sliver blended in a drawing process at a weight ratio of 40:60. A handkerchief fabric was obtained by processing under the same conditions except that the spinning was performed under the same conditions.

(比較例2)
実施例1において、綿100%スライバーを通常の条件で精紡すること以外は、同条件にて加工してハンカチ生地を得た。
(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 1, a handkerchief fabric was obtained by processing under the same conditions except that 100% cotton sliver was spun under normal conditions.

(比較例3)
実施例2において、綿100%スライバーを通常の条件で精紡すること以外は、同条件にて加工してハンカチ生地を得た。
(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 2, a handkerchief fabric was obtained by processing under the same conditions except that 100% cotton sliver was spun under normal conditions.

上記、実施例及び比較例にて得られたハンカチ生地を評価し、評価結果を表1に記す。

Figure 2015059281
The handkerchief fabrics obtained in the above Examples and Comparative Examples are evaluated, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
Figure 2015059281

実施例1、2のハンカチは寸法変化率がいずれも−0.7%以下であるのに対して、綿ハンカチ(比較例2,3)は−0.8〜−1.2%であった。つまり、本発明のハンカチは、綿ハンカチと比較して形態安定性に優れることがわかる。また実施例1,2のハンカチは、通常の混紡での紡績糸(比較例1)と比較して、ピリング性及び風合いに優れた効果を得ることが出来る。   The handkerchiefs of Examples 1 and 2 each had a dimensional change rate of −0.7% or less, while the cotton handkerchief (Comparative Examples 2 and 3) had −0.8 to −1.2%. . That is, it turns out that the handkerchief of this invention is excellent in form stability compared with a cotton handkerchief. In addition, the handkerchiefs of Examples 1 and 2 can obtain an effect excellent in pilling property and texture as compared with a spun yarn (Comparative Example 1) obtained by ordinary blending.

また、引裂き強さを同番手の糸からなるハンカチ生地同士で比較すると、実施例1(40/1番手、複重層糸)は比較例1(40/1番手、混紡糸)よりも、たて・よこ共に引裂き強さが高かった。同様に実施例2(60/1番手、複重層糸)は比較例3(60/1番手、綿)よりも、たて・よこ共に引裂き強さが高かった。
つまり本発明のハンカチは次の効果を奏することができる。
Further, when the tear strength is compared between handkerchief fabrics made of yarns of the same number, Example 1 (40/1 count, multi-layer yarn) is longer than Comparative Example 1 (40/1 count, blended yarn).・ The tear strength was high on both sides. Similarly, Example 2 (60/1 count, multi-layer yarn) had higher tear strength in both the warp and the width than Comparative Example 3 (60/1 count, cotton).
That is, the handkerchief of the present invention has the following effects.

合成繊維を芯に配し、表面に出ないため、複重層糸では綿100%のハンカチ生地と同等のピリング性能を有する。   Since the synthetic fiber is arranged on the core and does not come out on the surface, the multi-layer yarn has a pilling performance equivalent to a handkerchief fabric made of 100% cotton.

熱セット性に優れた合成繊維を配するため、洗濯後の寸法安定性に優れる。   Synthetic fibers with excellent heat setting properties are used, so dimensional stability after washing is excellent.

セルロース繊維が高混率で、細い番手を使用することでより風合いに優れる。   Cellulose fibers have a high blending ratio, and a fine texture is obtained by using a thin count.

鞘部にセルロース繊維を配することで、風合いに優れ、色調においても通常の混紡糸と比較してより鮮やかである。   By arranging the cellulose fiber in the sheath, the texture is excellent and the color tone is brighter than that of a normal blended yarn.

Claims (8)

芯部に合成繊維の短繊維を配し、鞘部にセルロース短繊維を配した複重層糸を用いてなるハンカチ用布帛であって、複重層糸における鞘部のセルロース短繊維及び芯部の合成繊維の比率(セルロース短繊維:合成繊維)が重量を基準として50:50〜80:20であることを特徴とするハンカチ用布帛。 A fabric for handkerchiefs using a multi-layered yarn in which short fibers of synthetic fibers are arranged in the core and cellulose short fibers are arranged in the sheath, and the cellulose short fibers and the core in the multi-layered yarn are synthesized. A fabric for a handkerchief, wherein a ratio of fibers (short cellulose fiber: synthetic fiber) is 50:50 to 80:20 based on weight. 複重層糸の撚係数が、単糸撚の綿式撚係数(K)が2.0以上4.2以下であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 2. The handkerchief fabric according to claim 1, wherein the twist coefficient of the multi-layer yarn is a cotton twist coefficient (K) of single yarn twist of 2.0 or more and 4.2 or less. 複重層糸が糸染されていることを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 The handkerchief fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the multi-layer yarn is dyed. 生地厚さが0.2〜1.0mm、生地目付けが50〜150g/mであることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 Handkerchief cloth of claim 1, the fabric thickness is 0.2 to 1.0 mm, the dough weight per unit area is characterized by a 50 to 150 g / m 2. 吸水性において、初期、10洗後の吸水性がいずれも10秒以内であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 2. The handkerchief fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the water absorption, the initial water absorption after 10 washings is within 10 seconds. 加工工程において温度が170〜210℃、加工時間15〜40秒間熱セットを施すことを特徴とする請求項1に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 2. The handkerchief fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the processing step, heat setting is performed at a temperature of 170 to 210 ° C. and a processing time of 15 to 40 seconds. 生地形状が織物であり、カバーファクター(CF)が15〜30、引裂き強さがたて、よこ共に10N以上、寸法変化率が±1%以下である請求項1に記載のハンカチ用布帛。 The fabric for handkerchiefs according to claim 1, wherein the fabric shape is a woven fabric, the cover factor (CF) is 15 to 30, the tear strength is 10 N or more, and the dimensional change rate is ± 1% or less. 請求項1〜7のいずれかに記載のハンカチ用布帛から製造された、ハンカチ。 A handkerchief manufactured from the handkerchief fabric according to claim 1.
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