JP2014221724A - Makeup base cosmetic and makeup method - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a makeup base cosmetic which provides an excellent impression from use and a storage stability as an oil-in-water type makeup base cosmetic, which has high water resistance when the cosmetic is applied to a skin, and which is also excellent in washing out performance upon makeup-removing, and a makeup method to use the makeup base cosmetic in which makeup-removing is easily performed.SOLUTION: An emulsion is used as a makeup base cosmetic, in which a (A) salt of liquid higher fatty acid is contained at a rate of 0.5-12 mass%, a (B) oil content is contained at a rate of 3-40 mass%, any hydrophilic surfactant other than the (A) salt of liquid higher fatty acid is not substantially contained, and pH is 7.1-9.5. The cosmetic can be efficiently prepared by means of a D phase emulsification method in which a D phase containing the (A) component, polyhydric alcohol, and water is formed, an oil phase containing the (B) component is thereafter gradually added to obtain a gelled emulsion (O/D phase), and dilution is optionally performed with water to obtain an oil-in-water type emulsion. When the makeup base cosmetic is used, makeup-removing can be easily performed with soap.

Description

  The present invention relates to a base cosmetic to be applied to the skin before using sunscreen cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, and the like, and a makeup method using the base cosmetic.

  Base cosmetics, also called makeup bases or makeup bases, include sunscreen cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays, and makeup cosmetics such as foundations, eyebrows, eyeliners, eye shadows, blushers, and white powder. It is applied to the skin before using these cosmetics in order to improve the elongation and to improve the makeup finish and long lasting makeup. Conventionally, such base cosmetics are known in the form of water-in-oil type, oily type, oil-in-water type and the like. Among these, the water-in-oil type and the oil-based type have the feature that the continuous phase becomes an oil agent or solvent, so that the cosmetic film formed on the skin becomes hydrophobic and is not easily affected by sweat or water. Excellent makeup make-up. However, oil-based base cosmetics have a problem that they are strongly oily when applied to the skin and feel poorly stretched and spread, and a dedicated cleaning agent that has a high detergency when washing away cosmetics. And cleansing agents are required, and the skin surface is damaged and makeup removal is complicated.

  Therefore, the development of cosmetics that make it easy to remove makeup has been in progress. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a film before applying sunscreen cosmetics, base cosmetics, or makeup cosmetics to the skin. A cosmetic method has been proposed in which an external preparation for skin containing a forming agent is applied to the skin (see claim 1). According to this method, sunscreen cosmetics, base cosmetics, and makeup cosmetics can be easily washed away using ordinary cleaning agents and cleansing agents without using a special cleaning agent or cleansing agent. (See paragraph 0006). However, the external preparation for skin disclosed in Patent Document 1 is a water-in-oil type containing a film-forming agent such as a silicone-based film-forming agent or a fluorine-based film-forming agent and a volatile oil. In addition to the problems of oiliness, stretch and spread, which are peculiar to application, it may be necessary to apply an external skin preparation before using the base cosmetic, or it may not be a dedicated cleansing agent However, there was still a problem that a cleansing agent had to be used (see paragraph 0057, Test Example 1).

  Oil-in-water base cosmetics, on the other hand, have a fresh feel when applied to the skin and are excellent in terms of stretch and spread, but are easy to adapt to sweat and water and have difficulty in sustaining the base film (make-up). In addition, when using a water-repellent and highly hydrophobic sunscreen cosmetic or makeup cosmetic after the base makeup, it is necessary to use a makeup-removing cosmetic such as cleansing oil when removing makeup, In order to remove those remaining oil, it was necessary to take a troublesome makeup action of washing with an aqueous detergent such as soap. For this reason, it has been desired to develop an oil-in-water base cosmetic that has excellent usability when applied to the skin, has a long makeup, and can easily remove makeup.

  Therefore, conventionally, attempts have been made to improve the water resistance of oil-in-water base cosmetics. For example, in Patent Document 2, an amphoteric surfactant and / or a semipolar surfactant and a higher fatty acid are mixed. An oil-in-water emulsion composition containing a composite, a powder, water, and a liquid non-volatile oil thus obtained has been proposed. In this oil-in-water emulsified composition, water resistance is improved by blending a non-volatile oil such as dimethylpolysiloxane, but a large amount of amphoteric surfactants and semipolar surfactants are used. Therefore, it cannot be said that the improvement in water resistance is sufficient, and it is not sufficient in terms of feeling of use and makeup removal.

  Furthermore, recently, a base cosmetic that can be removed by washing with hot water on the makeup layer on the makeup base has been put on the market, and has attracted much attention among customers as a new type of cosmetic (Non-patent Document 1). However, there is little technical information on the base cosmetics, and it is not clear what technical knowledge was developed based on the technical knowledge.

  On the other hand, Patent Document 3 contains (A) a higher fatty acid, (B) a higher alcohol, (C) a glycerin derivative and (D) an ultraviolet absorber, does not contain a hydrophilic surfactant, and has a pH of 5. An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen that is 0 to 7.0 has been proposed. In this invention, a stable and good oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic can be obtained without using a hydrophilic surfactant. In addition, this cosmetic is weakly acidic, has extremely low skin irritation, high water resistance, good resistance to sweat and water, and is good even in summer and exercise when it is hot and humid. (See paragraph 0034). However, in this system, it is necessary to blend (A) higher fatty acid, (B) higher alcohol and (C) glycerin derivative in a specific ratio, and (B) higher alcohol or (C) glycerin derivative does not contain emulsification. It is described that the strength is not sufficient and a stable emulsified cosmetic cannot be obtained (see Comparative Examples 1 and 2). Further, (A) a system emulsified with a salt of a higher fatty acid and a nonionic surfactant is described as being slightly alkaline and weakly irritating, and insufficient in water resistance (see Comparative Example 7). .

JP 2009-173653 A JP 2008-150299 A Japanese Patent No. 3614511

Weekly Cosmetics April 11, 2013 (published by Weekly Cosmetics Co., Ltd.)

  The present invention has been made in the background of such circumstances, and its purpose is to have water resistance when applied to the skin while having excellent use feeling and storage stability as an oil-in-water base cosmetic. It is an object of the present invention to provide an oil-in-water base cosmetic that is high in water and does not deteriorate its water resistance even when a makeup cosmetic or the like is used on it, and is excellent in washing out property when removing makeup. Another object of the present invention is to provide a makeup method that can easily remove makeup even when makeup cosmetics with high hydrophobicity are used.

  As a result of intensive research efforts to improve water resistance and wash-off properties of oil-in-water base cosmetics using surfactants, the present inventors have found that higher fatty acid component salts containing liquid higher fatty acids as surfactants By using only the base and controlling the pH of the system to a specific range, it is not irritating when applied to the skin, has high water resistance, and provides a foundation cosmetic with excellent use feeling and storage stability, Even when a makeup cosmetic or the like is applied after the cosmetic is applied, the present inventors have found that the water resistance is not lowered and can be easily washed off with soap, thereby completing the present invention.

  Thus, according to the present invention, first, (A) a salt of a higher fatty acid component containing a liquid higher fatty acid is contained in a proportion of 0.5 to 12% by mass and (B) an oil agent is contained in a proportion of 3 to 40% by mass, A) An oil-in-water base cosmetic that is substantially free of a hydrophilic surfactant other than a salt of a higher fatty acid component and is an emulsion having a pH of 7.1 to 9.5 is provided. Secondly, a cosmetic method is provided in which the oil-in-water base cosmetic is applied to the skin and then the sunscreen cosmetic and / or makeup cosmetic is applied to the skin. Thirdly, a makeup method is provided in which makeup is performed using the above-described method and then makeup is removed using an alkaline soap.

  The oil-in-water emulsified base cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with a fresh feeling of use, has high water resistance when applied to the skin, and is excellent in storage stability. In addition, when this base cosmetic is used, if you apply sunscreen cosmetics or makeup cosmetics such as foundations, lipsticks, eyebrows, eyeliners, eye shadows, blushers, white powder, etc., simply wash them with soap. You can easily remove both makeup and makeup.

The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) 0.5 to 12% by mass of a salt of a higher fatty acid component containing a liquid higher fatty acid and (B) 3 to 40% by mass of an oil agent. A) An oil-in-water cosmetic that is substantially free of a hydrophilic surfactant other than a salt of a higher fatty acid component and is formed of an emulsion having a pH of 7.1 to 9.5. In particular, when a cosmetic is applied to human skin having a pH of 5.1 at a rate of ² mg / cm ² , the pH of the coated surface after 30 minutes is 7.0 or less, and further 6.7 or less. preferable.

  In the present invention, the salt of the higher fatty acid component containing the liquid higher fatty acid of the component (A) is used as an emulsifier. The higher fatty acid component used to form the salt may be composed only of liquid higher fatty acid, or may be composed of a mixed system of liquid higher fatty acid and solid higher fatty acid, but should contain liquid higher fatty acid. In the case of only a solid higher fatty acid, the elongation and spread are not sufficient, and the wash-off property with soap is reduced. The content of the liquid higher fatty acid is at least 30% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, and more preferably 90% by mass or more, based on the total amount of the higher fatty acid. Easy to wash off with. In addition, when the higher fatty acid component is only liquid higher fatty acid, it is not necessary to provide a heating step in preparing the emulsion, which is economically advantageous and has an advantage of being stable in terms of quality.

  The liquid higher fatty acid to be used is usually one having 9 to 25 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably one having 11 to 22 carbon atoms. Specific examples thereof include oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, Examples include isostearic acid. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these, isostearic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, and oleic acid are preferable from the viewpoint of the function as an emulsifier, oxidation stability, and feeling of use, and isostearic acid is more preferable.

  In the present invention, isostearic acid means one kind of branched stearic acid or a mixture of two or more kinds. For example, 5,7,7-trimethyl-2- (1,3,3-trimethylbutyl) -octanoic acid is converted to a branched aldehyde having 9 carbons by oxo reaction of isobutylene dimer, and then by aldol condensation of this aldehyde. A branched unsaturated aldehyde having 18 carbon atoms can be produced, followed by a hydrogenation reaction and an oxidation reaction (hereinafter abbreviated as “aldol condensation type”). Aldol condensation type isostearic acid is commercially available from, for example, Nissan Chemical Industries. In addition, 2-heptylundecanoic acid can be produced by dimerizing nonyl alcohol by a gerbet reaction (also referred to as Guerbet reaction or Guerbet reaction) and then oxidizing it. 2-Heptylundecanoic acid is commercially available from, for example, Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation, and similar compounds having slightly different branch positions are commercially available from Nissan Chemical Industries. Further, a type in which the starting alcohol is branched instead of a straight chain alcohol is also commercially available from Nissan Chemical Industries (hereinafter abbreviated as “garbet reaction type”).

  Furthermore, isostearic acid called emery type can be used. Emery-type isostearic acid is an 18-carbon compound having a methyl group in the side chain obtained by hydrogenation of unsaturated fatty acid by-produced when synthesizing dimer acid from oleic acid, and has an unstructured structure. Refers to definite isostearic acid [eg J. Amer. Oil Chem. Soc. 51, 522 (1974)], specific examples thereof include those commercially available from Emery, Inc. of the United States, and isostearic acid EX manufactured by Higher Alcohol Industry. Further starting materials of dimer acid which is a starting material of emery type isostearic acid may include not only oleic acid but also linoleic acid, linolenic acid and the like. In the present invention, this emery type is particularly preferably used.

  In the present invention, solid higher fatty acids that can be used in combination with liquid higher fatty acids are usually those having 10 to 25 carbon atoms, particularly those having 11 to 22 carbon atoms, and specific examples thereof include stearic acid, Examples thereof include nitric acid, hydroxystearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and the like.

  On the other hand, the basic substance constituting the component (A) is not particularly limited as long as it can be used for the preparation of cosmetics. Specific examples thereof include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine. Etc.

  The component (A) may be used as a higher fatty acid salt that has been neutralized with a base in advance, but the higher fatty acid component and the basic substance are separately added to the cosmetic production process, and both components are added within the production process. It may be neutralized to form a higher fatty acid salt. When both components are added separately, the higher fatty acid component and the basic substance are usually added so as to be the same amount, but the pH of the prepared emulsion is in the range of 7.1 to 9.5. If present, the amount is not necessarily equal, and the higher fatty acid / base (molar ratio) can be appropriately selected within the range of 1 / 0.5 to 1 / 1.5.

  In the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of component (A) is 0.5 to 12% by mass, preferably 0.8 to 8% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 7% by mass. If it is less than 0.5% by mass, a stable emulsion cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 12% by mass, sufficient water resistance cannot be obtained when applied to the skin. Moreover, in this invention, it is important not to contain hydrophilic surfactants other than the said (A) component substantially. Specific examples of hydrophilic surfactants other than the component (A) are anionic surfactants other than higher fatty acid salts, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants of HLB7 or higher. "Substantially free" means that these hydrophilic surfactants are included in such a blending amount that they exhibit their effectiveness as active agents and can impair the water resistance of the cosmetic film applied to the skin. Means to eliminate. Specifically, when they are contained, it is preferably 0.2% by mass or less, particularly 0.1% by mass or less in the entire cosmetic. Moreover, even if it is a nonionic surfactant below HLB7, since it is easy to cause a fall of water resistance, it is preferable not to mix | blend.

  The pH of the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention is 7.1 to 9.5, preferably 7.2 to 8.5. When the pH is less than 7.1, a good emulsion cannot be obtained, storage stability is poor, and the oil phase and the aqueous phase are easily separated immediately after emulsification or after storage. When the pH exceeds 9.5, the pH of the skin surface becomes 7.0 or more when applied to the skin, and sufficient water resistance cannot be obtained. The pH of the cosmetic is mainly determined by the molar ratio of the higher fatty acid and the base to be neutralized. When there are components that affect the pH other than the essential components of the present invention, the amount of the base or a pH buffering agent as required The pH of the cosmetic is adjusted to 7.1 to 9.5.

  The mechanism of water resistance when the oil-in-water base cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied to the skin is not clear, but is considered as follows. That is, the pH of the skin surface is known to be weakly acidic (approximately 4.0 to 6.4) (Katsuhiko Deguchi et al., Cosmetic Engineers Association Vol. 15, No. 2, pages 121-127 1981 and Masao Nonaka. , Journal of Oil and Fat Chemistry, Vol. 1, No. 2, 67-70, 1952). When the oil-in-water base cosmetic composition of the present invention is applied to the skin surface, it is buffered by an acidic substance or the like present on the skin surface, and the pH of the cosmetic film is lowered to 7 or less, preferably 6.7 or less. When the pH is lower than 7.0, the higher fatty acid salt is changed from fatty acid ions to free fatty acid, loses its function as a surfactant, and forms an oil film on the skin surface that is difficult to be re-emulsified. It is thought that sex develops. Therefore, when the pH of the cosmetic exceeds 9.5 and when the amount of the higher fatty acid salt exceeds 12% by mass, the pH of the coated surface becomes 7.0 or less even when the cosmetic is applied to the skin. It is difficult and water resistance cannot be obtained. In addition, this oil film is easily re-emulsified because the higher fatty acid changes to a higher fatty acid salt in a basic environment, so that it can be easily washed away with soap.

In addition, the pH of the skin surface (application surface) was applied to the forearm with cosmetics in an amount of ² mg / cm ² , and a pH meter (skin pH meter skin checker MJ-120, manufactured by Sato Corporation) 30 minutes after application. Can be measured.

  The oil agent of component (B) used in the present invention exists as a dispersed phase of an oil-in-water emulsion, and is a sunscreen cosmetic applied on a base cosmetic, or a makeup cosmetic such as a foundation (finished cosmetic). ) To improve adhesion and elongation. (B) The oil agent of a component will not be specifically limited if it is normally used as a cosmetic material, Origin of animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, etc., solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile Regardless of properties such as oil, any of them can be used. Specific examples of the oil include hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives, oil-soluble UV absorbers, and the like. .

More specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, molasses and montan wax;
Fats and oils such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamian nut oil;
Waxes such as beeswax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, gay wax;
Esters such as cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, dipentanoate neopentyl glycol;
Silicones such as low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, high polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, fluorine-modified silicone;
Fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane;
Lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, and lanolin alcohol;

Examples of oil-soluble UV absorbers include cinnamate-based UV absorbers such as benzyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, and glyceryl di-2-methoxycinnamate mono-2-ethylhexanoate. Agent;
Benzophenone ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxymethoxybenzophenone, dihydroxymethoxybenzophenone, dihydroxybenzophenone, tetrahydroxybenzophenone;
Paraaminobenzoic acid, ethyl paraaminobenzoate, glyceryl paraaminobenzoate, amyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, octyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, ethyl 4- [N, N-di (2-hydroxypropyl) amino] benzoate, diethylaminohydroxy Benzoate UV absorbers such as benzoyl hexyl benzoate;
Salicylic acid UV absorbers such as ethylene glycol salicylate, phenyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, para-tert-butylphenyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
Triazine ultraviolet absorbers such as ethylhexyltriazone (2,4,6-tris [4- (2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl) anilino] 1,3,5-triazine), bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine;
4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, menthyl anthranilate, 2- (2-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, dimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazolidinepropionate 2-ethylhexyl, octocrylene, dimethicodiethyl Examples include benzal malonate.

  These oil agents can be used alone or in combination of two or more. In this invention, the compounding quantity of (B) component is 3-40 mass%, Preferably it is 5-30 mass%, More preferably, it is 8-25 mass%. If the amount is less than 3% by mass, sufficient adhesion of the finished cosmetic cannot be obtained. If the amount exceeds 40% by mass, a sticky feel is obtained, and makeup collapse tends to occur.

  The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains (C) a water-soluble thickener in addition to the components (A) and (B). (C) The mixture ratio of a water-soluble thickener is 0.01-3 mass% normally with respect to the whole cosmetics, Preferably it is 0.05-2 mass%, (C) Water-soluble thickener By blending, it is possible to adjust to a desired viscosity and feeling of use, and the storage stability is further improved.

  Examples of the water-soluble thickener used include carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene block copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl Examples include methyl ether, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, cationized cellulose, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, guar gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, dextran, bentonite, etc. Carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid Alkyl copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose. These water-soluble thickeners can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains (D) a polyhydric alcohol in addition to the components (A) and (B). (D) The blending ratio of the polyhydric alcohol is usually 0.3 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 25% by mass with respect to the entire cosmetic, and (D) by blending the polyhydric alcohol, It can be adjusted to a desired moisturizing feeling and use feeling. When the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is prepared by the D-phase emulsification method to be described later, the mass ratio of (A) component / (D) component is set to 1/2. When formed, the storage stability is further improved.

  The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains (E) powder in addition to the above components (A) and (B). (E) The blending ratio of the powder is usually 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass with respect to the entire cosmetic, and (E) by blending the powder, As a touch adjustment or base cosmetic, a makeup effect such as making the skin color brighter and making the wrinkles and pores inconspicuous can be imparted.

  The powder used is not particularly limited by the shape of a plate, spindle, needle, etc., particle size, particle structure such as porous, nonporous, etc. In addition, inorganic powders and glittering powders Any of organic powders, pigments, and composite powders may be used.

  Specific examples of the powder used include titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, conjugate, ultramarine, anhydrous silicic acid, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, hydroxide Aluminum, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, smectite, bentonite, kaolin, synthetic mica, synthetic sericite, sericite, talc, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, boron nitride Inorganic powders such as bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, organic pigment-coated mica titanium, and aluminum powder; magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, N -Acyl lysine, polystyrene, nylon, poly And organic powders such as methyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, cellulose, crystalline cellulose, and cellulose acetate.

  These powders may be used singly or in combination of two or more, if necessary, known surface treatment agents such as alumina, silica, iron oxide and other inorganic compounds, fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, It can also be used after being surface-treated with phospholipids, phospholipid derivatives, metal soaps, waxes, surfactants, oils and fats, hydrocarbons and the like.

  Among these, when using spherical organic powders such as polystyrene, nylon, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose acetate, etc., irregularities such as pores Can be effectively concealed, so that a preferable finish can be obtained. As an example of a commercial product of spherical cellulose acetate, Cellflow TA-25 (particle diameter: 7 μm) manufactured by Chisso Corporation may be mentioned.

  In addition, inorganic powders such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and black iron oxide are also preferable. In particular, inorganic powders coated with metal oxides such as silica have emulsion stability and prevent color change. Is excellent in terms of. For example, when iron oxide powder subjected to coating treatment is used, it is possible to prevent fatty acid ions of the component (A) from adsorbing on the iron oxide surface and agglomerating the powder or making the emulsification unstable. As examples of commercially available products of silica-coated red iron oxide, SYMPHOLIGHT RW manufactured by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals, Inc., and as examples of commercially available products of silica-coated yellow iron oxide, SYMPHOLIGHT Y10 can be given.

  In the oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention, other components blended in a normal cosmetic, for example, a water-soluble ultraviolet absorber, a water-soluble polymer other than the component (C), a film-forming agent, alcohols , Clay minerals, resins, moisturizers other than component (D), preservatives, antibacterial agents, fragrances, salts, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, cooling agents, anti-inflammatory agents, skin beautifying ingredients, vitamins, Amino acids, nucleic acids, inclusion compounds and the like can be blended.

The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention is prepared by dispersing the component (B) in water by using the component (A) as a surfactant. The preparation method of cosmetics is not specifically limited, For example, the following methods are employable.
(1) An aqueous phase containing the component (A) and an oil phase containing the component (B) are prepared in advance, and then the oil phase containing the component (B) is gradually added to the aqueous phase containing the component (A) while stirring. To make an oil-in-water emulsion.
(2) A water phase in which the higher fatty acid component and the basic substance constituting the component (A) are separately blended, the higher fatty acid component is blended with the component (B) in the oil phase, and the basic substance is blended. Is gradually added to the oil phase with stirring to form an oil-in-water emulsion. Incidentally, this method is called a soap emulsification method or a reaction emulsification method, and it is said that a fine emulsion can be formed with a small amount of energy because soap as an emulsifier is generated at the oil / water interface.
(3) After previously forming a mixture called D phase (surfactant phase) containing (A) component, polyhydric alcohol and water, gradually add the oil phase containing (B) component under stirring. A method of forming a gel emulsion (O / D phase) and further diluting with water as necessary to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion (hereinafter referred to as D phase emulsification method).

  Especially, when it manufactures by D phase emulsification method, it can be set as the stable emulsion with a small particle diameter, and it is preferable from the point of the elongate on a skin, easiness of spread, and a fresh touch. In the D phase emulsification method, glycerin is preferably used as the polyhydric alcohol. The mass ratio of (A) component / polyhydric alcohol is preferably 1 / 0.2 to 1/10, and the mass ratio of (A) component / water is 1 / 0.2 to 1/10. It is preferable.

  When preparing cosmetics, it is possible to add a higher fatty acid component and a basic substance as raw materials for the component (A) separately, and to produce a salt of the higher fatty acid component in the cosmetic production process, thereby stabilizing the operability and quality. It is preferable in terms of sex. In addition, when only liquid higher fatty acid is used as the raw material of component (A), it becomes possible to omit the heating step required when using solid higher fatty acid, which is economically advantageous and stable in quality. It also contributes to The form of the oil-in-water base cosmetic to be obtained is not particularly limited, and for example, any form of cream, gel, emulsion, liquid (diluted emulsion) may be used.

The method for making up using the base cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in accordance with a conventional method, and examples thereof include the following methods.
(1) A method of applying a sunscreen cosmetic after applying the base cosmetic of the present invention to the skin, and further applying a makeup cosmetic as necessary.
(2) A method of applying a makeup cosmetic after applying the base cosmetic of the present invention to the skin, and further applying a sunscreen cosmetic as necessary.
(3) A method according to (1) or (2) above after preparing the skin with a basic cosmetic such as lotion, milky lotion, or cosmetic liquid.

  In these embodiments, two or more makeup cosmetics can be used in layers. In the present invention, the makeup cosmetic means any one of foundation, lipstick, lip gloss, eyebrow, eyeliner, eye shadow, blusher, and white powder.

  According to the cosmetic method of the present invention, since the base cosmetic has excellent water resistance, the makeup collapse is improved even after the sunscreen cosmetic or makeup cosmetic is applied, and the oil-in-water base cosmetic Even when a sunscreen cosmetic or makeup cosmetic is applied on the skin to condition the skin, it is less likely to feel oily. In addition, when removing makeup, sunscreen cosmetics, makeup cosmetics and base cosmetics can be removed simultaneously by washing with normal or alkaline soap (ie, higher fatty acid salt) with water or warm water. The alkaline soap may be any of a vegetable higher fatty acid salt, an animal higher fatty acid salt and a synthetic higher fatty acid salt, and the shape may be either solid or liquid. What is necessary is just to select pH of alkaline soap suitably so that the said (A) component of base cosmetics which is free | released on skin can form a salt again.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although this invention is demonstrated further in detail based on an Example, this invention is not limited at all by these Examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount of each component represents “mass%”.

Reference Example 1 Preparation of Liquid-Foundation (LF1) Liquid foundation (LF1) having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared according to the following production procedure, and used as a makeup cosmetic in the following Examples and Comparative Examples.
<Manufacturing method>
(1) The components 1 to 13 are mixed to prepare an oil phase (a).
(2) The components 14-18 are mixed and an aqueous phase (b) is prepared.
(3) A water-in-oil liquid foundation is prepared by mixing the oil phase (a) and the water phase (b) little by little at room temperature.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1
A base cosmetic material having the composition shown in Table 2 was prepared according to the following production procedure, and its pH was measured. The obtained base cosmetic was fine in emulsified texture. Next, this base cosmetic was applied at a rate of 2 mg / cm ² with the finger wearing a finger sack on the skin of the evaluation panel (skin pH is 5.1) and the bioskin plate for evaluation (manufactured by Beaulax). After 30 minutes, the pH and contact angle of the coated surface were measured according to the following evaluation methods. Next, this base cosmetic was applied to the skin of 20 female evaluation panels, and the pH, water repellency, and feeling of use (freshness, freshness) of the coated surface were evaluated according to the following evaluation methods. Moreover, after apply | coating foundation | substrate cosmetics, the liquid foundation (LF-1) obtained by the reference example 1 was applied on it, and the contact angle of the application surface was measured. Furthermore, the washability at the time of makeup removal was evaluated according to the following evaluation method. The results are shown in Table 2.

<Manufacturing procedure> Preparation by D phase emulsification method (1) Components 1 to 6 are mixed to prepare D phase (a).
(2) The components 7 to 11 are mixed to prepare an oil phase (b).
(3) The components 13 to 20 are mixed to prepare an aqueous phase (c).
(4) The components 21 to 24 are mixed to prepare an aqueous phase (d).
(5) At room temperature, the oil phase (b) is mixed little by little with the D phase (a) to prepare a gel O / D emulsion phase (e).
(6) The component 12 is mixed little by little with the O / D emulsion phase (e), and then the water phase (c) and the water phase (d) are mixed in this order to prepare a cosmetic.

<Measurement method of pH>
The skin pH was measured using a skin checker MJ-120 (manufactured by Sato Corporation).
<Measurement method of contact angle>
Water drops were gently dropped on the decorative film, the state of the water drops formed on the surface was photographed, and the contact angle was measured based on the shape.

<Evaluation method 1: Evaluation of water repellency>
Apply a sample (base cosmetic) to the inner side of the forearm of a female evaluation panel (20 persons) with a finger sack wearing finger at ² mg / cm ^2, and after 30 minutes of application, gently drop a drop of water and measure the contact angle. The water repellency when applying the base cosmetic was evaluated according to the following criteria. Moreover, after application | coating of foundation | background cosmetics, liquid foundation (LF-1) was apply | coated from it, the contact angle was measured with the same method, and the water repellency after foundation application | coating was evaluated on the following references | standards.
◎: Contact angle is 75 ° or more ○: Contact angle is 60 ° or more and less than 75 ° △: Contact angle is 20 ° or more and less than 60 ° ×: Contact angle is less than 20 °

<Evaluation method 2: Feeling of use (freshness, refreshing feeling)>
A sample was applied to the face of a female evaluation panel, and the sensory evaluation was performed according to the following evaluation criteria with respect to the feeling of use (freshness and refreshing feeling) at the time of application.
◎: More than 16 out of 20 responded that they are fresh and refreshing ○: 11-15 out of 20 responded that they were refreshing and refreshing △: 6-10 out of 20 responded that they were refreshing, Answer that it is refreshing ×: 5 or less of 20 people answered that it is refreshing and refreshing

<Evaluation Method 3: Evaluation of Detergency>
After applying the foundation cosmetic and liquid foundation (LF-1) from above, it is washed with water at room temperature using a commercially available weakly alkaline solid soap (Kao White: manufactured by Kao Corporation). Sensory evaluation was performed according to
◎: 16 or more out of 20 responded that it was easy to wash out ○: 11-15 out of 20 responded that it was easy to wash out △: 6-10 out of 20 responded that it was easy to wash out ×: 5 out of 20 Less than one person answered that it was easy to wash away

<Evaluation Method 4: Evaluation of Storage Stability>
The sample was stored in a thermostat at 50 ° C. for 30 days, and the presence or absence of separation between the oil phase and the aqueous phase was visually observed, and the storage stability was evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: Oil phase and water phase do not separate even after storage for 30 days. Δ: Oil phase and water phase are separated after 30 days. ×: Oil phase and water immediately after sunscreen cosmetic preparation. Phase separation occurs

  From the results of Table 2, it can be seen that when a nonionic surfactant is included (Comparative Example 1), the water resistance is poor and the detergency at the time of makeup removal is not sufficient.

Comparative Example 2
A water-in-oil base cosmetic having the composition shown in Table 3 was prepared according to the following production procedure, and the pH and contact angle of the coated surface of the obtained base cosmetic were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. In addition, the feeling of use and the cleanability at the time of makeup removal were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4.

Comparative Example 3
Without using a base cosmetic, the liquid foundation (LF-1) obtained in Reference Example 1 was directly applied onto the skin, and the contact angle of the applied surface was measured and the detergency during makeup removal was evaluated. did. The results are shown in Table 4.

<Manufacturing procedure>
(1) The components 1 to 10 are mixed to prepare an oil phase (a).
(2) The components 11-14 are mixed and an aqueous phase (b) is prepared.
(3) A cosmetic is prepared by mixing the oil phase (a) and the water phase (b) little by little at room temperature.

  From the results of Table 4, it can be seen that when the foundation is applied after the base cosmetic of the present invention is applied (Example 1), it exhibits excellent detergency while maintaining the water-repellent function. In contrast, when a hydrophilic surfactant other than the higher fatty acid salt was included (Comparative Example 1), the level of water repellency and detergency when the foundation was applied repeatedly did not reach the level of Example 1. . The water-in-oil base cosmetic of Comparative Example 2 was inferior in detergency, although there was no decrease in water repellency when the foundation was applied repeatedly. Moreover, when apply | coating to a bio skin plate instead of human skin, the pH of the formed cosmetic film was the same as the pH of cosmetics.

Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 4-6
A base cosmetic composition having the composition shown in Table 5 below was prepared according to the following production procedure 1 or 2, and the pH of the skin after application, water repellency, feeling of use (freshness, refreshing feeling), cleanability and storage stability were examples. Evaluation was performed in the same manner as in 1. Only Example 2 was prepared according to <Production Procedure 2>, and all other Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared according to <Production Procedure 1>. The results are shown in Table 5.

<Manufacturing procedure 1> Preparation by D phase emulsification method (1) Components 1 to 5 are mixed to prepare D phase (a).
(2) The oil phase (b) is prepared by mixing the components 6 to 10.
(3) The components 12-19 are mixed and an aqueous phase (c) is prepared.
(4) The components 20-23 are mixed and an aqueous phase (d) is prepared.
(5) At room temperature, the oil phase (b) is mixed little by little with the D phase (a) to prepare the O / D phase (e) of the gel emulsion.
(6) The component 11 is mixed little by little with the O / D phase (e), and then the water phase (c) and the water phase (d) are mixed in this order to prepare a cosmetic.

<Manufacturing procedure 2> Preparation by soap emulsification method (1) Components 1 to 4 and 11 to 19 are mixed to prepare an aqueous phase (a).
(2) The components 5 to 10 are mixed to prepare an oil phase (b).
(3) The components 20-23 are mixed and an aqueous phase (c) is prepared.
(4) The water phase (a) is mixed little by little with the oil phase (b) at room temperature to prepare an emulsified phase (e).
(5) The aqueous phase (c) is mixed little by little with the emulsified phase (e) to prepare a cosmetic.

  From the results of Table 5, the foundation cosmetic of the present invention shows good results in any of water repellency, feeling of use (freshness, refreshing feeling), cleanability and preservability, and the pH of the cosmetic is increased. It can be seen that the water repellency decreases with time (Comparative Example 4). Further, from the comparison between the results of Example 1 and the results of Example 2 shown in Table 2, the cosmetics (Example 1) prepared by the D-phase emulsification method were prepared by the soap emulsification method with the same composition. It can be seen that the feeling of use (freshness, refreshing feeling) is superior to the cosmetic (Example 2).

  In addition, when the blending amount of isostearic acid and potassium hydroxide used as the component (A) is excessively small (Comparative Example 5), separation occurred immediately after the preparation of the cosmetic, so that the evaluation could not be performed. . On the other hand, when the amount of isostearic acid and potassium hydroxide is excessively large (Comparative Example 6), the pH when applied to the skin is increased and the water repellency is deteriorated. There is a slight lack of feeling (freshness, refreshing feeling).

Example 6
A base cosmetic material having the composition shown in Table 6 below was prepared by the following production procedure, and the performance was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 2. In this cosmetic, stearic acid, which is a solid higher fatty acid, is used in combination with isostearic acid, which is a liquid higher fatty acid. The results are shown in Table 6.

<Manufacturing procedure> Preparation by soap emulsification method (1) Components 1 to 10 are mixed and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C to prepare an aqueous phase (a).
(2) Components 11 to 19 are mixed and heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to prepare an oil phase (b).
(3) The emulsified phase (c) is prepared by mixing the aqueous phase (a) little by little with the oil phase (b).
(4) Cool the emulsified phase (c) and mix the component 20 at 35 ° C. to prepare a cosmetic.

  From the results of Table 6, it can be seen that good performance is exhibited even when potassium stearate is included together with potassium isostearate. Apply this base cosmetic to the face and lips, then apply the liquid foundation of the reference example, commercially available lipstick, eye shadow, blusher, eyeliner and powder foundation, and then wash the face with a weakly alkaline soap. As a result, it was easy to remove makeup without using makeup remover.

  The oil-in-water base cosmetic of the present invention has a characteristic of high water resistance when applied to the skin while having a fresh feeling of use, and also has excellent storage stability and a foundation with many oil components. Even so, it has the property that makeup can be easily removed by washing with soap, and is useful as a highly convenient base cosmetic.

Claims (7)

  (A) 0.5-12 mass% of salt of higher fatty acid component containing liquid higher fatty acid and (B) 3-40 mass% of oil agent, (A) hydrophilicity other than salt of higher fatty acid component An oil-in-water base cosmetic material characterized by being an emulsion having substantially no surfactant and a pH of 7.1 to 9.5.   Furthermore, the oil-in-water base cosmetic of Claim 1 which contains (C) water-soluble thickener in the ratio of 0.01-3 mass%. Furthermore, the oil-in-water base cosmetic of Claim 1 or 2 which contains (D) polyhydric alcohol in the ratio of 0.3-30 mass%. Furthermore, the oil-in-water base cosmetic of Claims 1-3 which contains (E) powder in the ratio of 0.1-20 mass%.   The oil-in-water base cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the emulsion has a pH of 7.0 or less when applied to human skin.   A cosmetic method comprising applying the sunscreen cosmetic and / or makeup cosmetics after applying the oil-in-water base cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5 to human skin.   After applying the oil-in-water base cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5 to human skin, sunscreen cosmetics and / or makeup cosmetics are applied in layers, and the formed cosmetic film is treated with an alkaline soap. A makeup method characterized by washing with a shampoo.