JP2014129303A - Solid powder cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a solid powder cosmetic in which an oil solution is dispersed uniformly even in slurry prepared using water, being excellent in feeling of use, and having sufficient shock resistance.SOLUTION: Single or two or more types of mixed solvent selected from water and aqueous solvent are mixed with a cosmetics base material containing a powder and an oil solution, and filled in a container, then the solvent is removed to obtain the solid powder cosmetic. The base material contains amphiphilic ester.

Description

  The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic.

  The solid powder cosmetic manufacturing method includes a dry method in which powder and an oil agent as a binder are mixed and then compacted, and a volatile solvent is added to a cosmetic base material composed of powder and oil to form a slurry, which is then filled into a container. Then, there is a wet method in which a volatile solvent is removed by drying to obtain a cosmetic. The solid powder cosmetic obtained by the wet method is in a slurry state, so that the uniform dispersion of the powder and the oil advances, and has a fine powder quality and a moist feeling. In the wet method, it is necessary to uniformly disperse the base powder and oil in the slurry in order to maximize the characteristics. As such a solvent excellent in the dispersion ability of the base material, volatile hydrocarbons and low-boiling alcohols are known, and are widely used for obtaining solid powder cosmetics by an actual wet method (Patent Document 1). 2).

  However, volatile hydrocarbons and low-boiling alcohols are dangerous, so when used in the production of solid powder cosmetics, they should be used after being managed with a special storage warehouse. It was necessary to pay attention in terms of work safety and environmental measures, such as setting the drying conditions so as not to exceed the point, and recovering and disposing of the volatile solvent removed by drying again. In addition, volatile hydrocarbons obtained by refining petroleum cannot be used when petroleum is depleted in the future.

  From such a background, it has been attempted to use water as a volatile solvent. However, when water is used to prepare a slurry, it is difficult to uniformly disperse the oil agent, and the resulting product is from the surface to the inside. The oil dispersion state becomes uneven, and there are problems in use such as the amount of powder removal and spreading to the skin differing depending on the location of the cosmetic used, and the impact resistance is poor.

  In order to solve such problems, the impact resistance is improved by suppressing the blending amount of oil agents with poor dispersibility and using solid powder oil (Patent Document 3) or containing a film-forming polymer. Attempts have been made (Patent Document 4). In addition, an attempt has been made to improve the dispersibility of a base material by further adding a polyhydric alcohol and / or a hydrophilic surfactant to a base material composed of a specific powder raw material and an oil agent (Patent Document 5). ).

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 64-9909 Japanese Patent Publication No. 06-104612 JP 2007-269696 A Japanese Patent No. 3455476 JP 2010-47528 A

However, as in Patent Documents 3 and 4, when solid powder oil or a film-forming polymer is used in the base material, it is derived from these components and becomes a powdery and uncomfortable feeling of use.
Further, as in Patent Document 5, when a solid powder cosmetic base material contains a polyhydric alcohol or a hydrophilic surfactant, a new problem arises that the cosmetic coating film is vulnerable to water and sweat.
In this way, in wet-filled solid powder cosmetics using water, by improving the dispersion of the cosmetic base material in the slurry, development of a formulation with excellent usability and sufficient impact resistance Is awaited.

  As a result of intensive studies on the oil agent in the base material in view of the above situation, the present inventor uniformly dispersed the oil agent in the slurry prepared using water by containing an amphiphilic ester in the cosmetic base material. The present inventors have found that a solid powder cosmetic having excellent usability and sufficient impact resistance can be obtained.

  That is, the present invention provides a cosmetic base material containing a powder and an oil, and a mixture of a single solvent or two or more mixed solvents selected from water and an aqueous solvent to form a slurry, which is filled in a container, and then the solvent. The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic obtained by removing the odor, wherein the cosmetic base contains an amphiphilic ester.

  The solid powder cosmetic of the present invention can prepare a slurry in which the oil agent is uniformly dispersed and fluidity is good even in wet filling using water as a solvent. It has excellent impact resistance.

The amphiphilic ester used in the present invention is 10% by mass or more dissolved at room temperature in ion-exchanged water adjusted to have a conductivity of 70 to 110 μs / m, as measured by the method defined in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia General Test Method. In addition, it is dissolved in isotridecyl isononanoate (Nisshin Oilio Group, Saracos 913), which is an oil agent, at 10% by mass or more at room temperature (25 ° C.).
Such amphiphilic esters include esters of dicarboxylic acids with ethoxyethanol or ethoxydiglycol.
More specifically, diethoxyethyl succinate represented by the following formula (1), bisethoxydiglycol succinate represented by the following formula (2), cyclohexane-1, represented by the following formula (3), 4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol.

  The amphiphilic ester can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass in the cosmetic base material from the viewpoint of feeling of use. The above is more preferable, and 1% by mass or more is still more preferable. And from a water-resistant point, 15 mass% or less is preferable, 12 mass% or less is more preferable, and 10 mass% or less is still more preferable. Moreover, 0.1-15 mass% is preferable in cosmetics base material, as for content of an amphiphilic ester, 0.5-12 mass% is more preferable, and 1-10 mass% is still more preferable.

  In the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention, any cosmetic base material other than the amphiphilic ester can be used as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and various powders, oils, additives and the like are used. be able to.

Examples of the powder include mica titanium, titanium oxide-coated synthetic phlogopite, iron oxide-coated synthetic phlogopite, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica, conger-coated mica titanium, carmine-coated mica titanium, and titanium oxide / silica multilayer. Coated mica titanium; titanium oxide coated glass flake, titanium oxide / iron oxide coated glass flake, iron oxide coated glass flake, silver coated glass flake, gold coated glass flake; silica coated aluminum powder; titanium oxide / silica multilayer coated silica flake; polyethylene Terephthalate / epoxy / aluminum laminate powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum laminate powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polyurethane-11 / aluminum laminate powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethyl methacrylate laminate powder, polyethylene terephthalate Glossy powder such as rate-polyolefin laminated powder; red 104, red 202, red 226, yellow 4, yellow 5, blue 1, black 401, etc. organic dye pigment, yellow 4 Al lake , Lake No. 1 Al lake and other lake organic pigments; yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, ultramarine, bitumen, manganese violet, and other inorganic colored pigments; zinc oxide, White pigments such as titanium oxide; extender pigments such as talc, sericite, and boron nitride; metal salt pigments such as barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, and magnesium silicate; inorganic pigments such as silica and alumina; polyethylene powder, Polypropylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, nylon powder, polytetrafluoroethylene Resin powder such as powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, silk powder, urethane powder, cellulose powder, and polyfluorinated ethylene; acylated lysine powder such as lauroyl lysine; metal soap powder that is a higher fatty acid metal salt It is done.
The size, shape, and the like of these powders are not limited and can be used alone or in combination of two or more. These powders may be appropriately surface-treated.

  The content of the powder is preferably 70% by mass or more, more preferably 75% by mass or more, and still more preferably 80% by mass or more in the cosmetic base material in order to sufficiently exhibit the cosmetic effect of imparting color and gloss. . And from the point of shape retention property, 96 mass% or less is preferable, 95 mass% or less is more preferable, and 94 mass% or less is still more preferable. Moreover, 70-96 mass% is preferable in cosmetics base material, as for content of powder, 75-95 mass% is more preferable, and 80-94 mass% is still more preferable.

In addition, the oil agent other than the amphiphilic ester used for the cosmetic base material may be any oil used for ordinary cosmetics, for example, hydrocarbon oil, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, various ester oils, silicone oil. And fluorine-based oils such as perfluoroalkyl ether.
It is preferable to add such an oil because the moist feeling of the final product and the adhesion to the skin are improved.

  These oil agents can be used singly or in combination of two or more, and the content of the oil agent is sufficient to exert effects such as shape retention, moist feeling of the final product and adhesion to the skin. In the cosmetic base material, 3% by mass or more is preferable, 4% by mass or more is more preferable, and 5% by mass or more is more preferable. And in order to avoid that the cosmetics surface solidifies and a usability | use_condition deteriorates, 30 mass% or less is preferable in a cosmetics base material as a total amount of oil agent, 25 mass% or less is more preferable, and 20 mass% or less is preferable. Further preferred. In addition, the content of the oil agent is preferably 3 to 30% by mass, more preferably 4 to 25% by mass, and still more preferably 5 to 20% by mass in the cosmetic base material as the total amount of the oil agent.

Moreover, a surfactant can also be mix | blended with a cosmetics base material in order to assist uniform dispersion | distribution of a component.
As the surfactant, any surfactant can be used as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and examples thereof include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. . For example, glycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyglycerin fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, sorbitan fatty acid ester and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyalkylene alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane, Examples include polyether-modified organopolysiloxane and lecithin.
As the surfactant, a nonionic surfactant is preferable.

  In addition, in cosmetic base materials, in order to improve the performance and quality of products, components used in ordinary cosmetics, such as moisturizers, pH adjusters, antioxidants, antibacterial and antifungal agents, UV absorption Various additives such as an agent, a fragrance, and a cosmetic ingredient can be appropriately blended within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention.

  The cosmetic base is prepared by stirring and mixing the above ingredients using an apparatus for producing an ordinary powder cosmetic.

Among the solvents used for mixing with the cosmetic base material, the aqueous solvent is preferably a low-boiling alcohol such as ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or butyl alcohol.
As the solvent, water alone or an aqueous alcohol solution in which a low-boiling alcohol is dissolved in water is preferable. The low boiling alcohol concentration in the aqueous alcohol solution is preferably 50% by mass or less. The higher the alcohol concentration in the aqueous alcohol solution, the better the dispersion of the cosmetic base material during slurry preparation, and a solid powder cosmetic with excellent use feeling and sufficient impact resistance can be obtained. However, in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a solid powder cosmetic having a very good feeling of use and sufficient impact resistance without using any low-boiling point alcohol. The low-boiling alcohol concentration in it can be more preferably 25% by mass or less, still more preferably 10% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 5% by mass or less.

  In the present invention, when a slurry is prepared using a cosmetic base material, water or an aqueous solvent, or a mixed solvent of two or more kinds, the cosmetic base material from the point that the slurry has fluidity suitable for filling. It is preferable to use 50 to 120 parts by mass of a single or two or more mixed solvents selected from water and an aqueous solvent with respect to 100 parts by mass, and it is more preferable to use 70 to 100 parts by mass.

  After the cosmetic base material is mixed with one or two or more mixed solvents selected from water and an aqueous solvent, the container is filled and the solvent is removed by heating and drying. The heating temperature and the apparatus are not limited, but in order to dry and distill all the solvent, the temperature is preferably 30 ° C. or higher, more preferably 50 ° C. or higher. As the drying apparatus, it is preferable to use a hot air circulation type dryer without exposing the cosmetic to a high temperature locally.

  In the present invention, the wet-filling slurry containing the amphiphilic ester in the cosmetic base material is wetted by the powder and the slurry is rich in fluidity. It is most suitable for use in a wet back filling method, which is a kind of wet method for filling slurry.

  In addition, the slurry used in the present invention has high fluidity and can be uniformly filled into the cosmetic container, so that it is suitable for three-dimensional molding by back filling. The three-dimensional molding by back filling means that the surface is three-dimensionally molded, and the bottom of the container is pressed after pressing the member engraved with the cosmetic surface pattern and the three-dimensional shape inverted to the container opening at the time of back filling. In this molding method, the slurry is press-fitted from the filling hole provided in the upper portion and simultaneously solidified by absorbing the volatile solvent in the slurry from the opening upper pressure contact member. Here, the solid is not limited to a solid powder cosmetic material that is molded into a dome shape or a pyramid shape, but the surface of the solid powder cosmetic material is not a uniform height, This includes designs that are provided.

The solid powder cosmetic of the present invention can be applied as a foundation, eye shadow, teak or the like.
This invention discloses the following compositions further regarding embodiment mentioned above.

<1> A cosmetic base material containing a powder and an oil agent, and a single or two or more mixed solvents selected from water and an aqueous solvent are mixed to form a slurry, filled in a container, and then the solvent is removed. It is a solid powder cosmetic obtained by doing, Comprising: The cosmetic base material contains an amphiphilic ester.

<2> The solid powder cosmetic according to <1>, wherein the amphiphilic ester is an ester of dicarboxylic acid and ethoxyethanol or ethoxydiglycol.
<3> Amphiphilic ester is represented by diethoxyethyl succinate represented by the following formula (1), bisethoxydiglycol succinate represented by the following formula (2), and the following formula (3). The solid powder cosmetic according to <1> or <2>, wherein the cosmetic is one or more selected from cyclohexane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol.

<4> The content of the amphiphilic ester is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 12% by mass, and further preferably 1 to 10% in the cosmetic base material. Solid powder cosmetics any one of said <1>-<3> which is the mass%.
<5> The content of the powder in the cosmetic base material is preferably 70 to 96% by mass, more preferably 75 to 95% by mass, and further preferably 80 to 94% by mass. Solid powder cosmetics any one of 1>-<4>.
<6> The content of the oil agent is preferably 3 to 30% by mass in the cosmetic base material, more preferably 4 to 25% by mass, and further preferably 5 to 20% by mass <1. The solid powder cosmetic according to any one of> to <5>.

<7> Any of the above <1> to <6>, wherein the solvent is preferably water alone or an aqueous alcohol solution in which a low-boiling alcohol selected from ethyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol and butyl alcohol is dissolved in water. The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1.
<8> The solid powder cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <7>, wherein the slurry is back-filled from a hole provided on a bottom surface of the container.
<9> The solid powder cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <8>, wherein the surface is three-dimensionally molded.
<10> The solid powder cosmetic according to any one of <1> to <9>, which is a foundation, eye shadow, or teak.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention further in detail, the technical scope of this invention is not limited by these Examples. In addition, the numerical value in a table | surface shows content (mass%). Prior to the examples, the evaluation methods employed in each example will be described.

(1) Slurry fluidity:
Fill the syringe with the discharge port of 30mm inner diameter, length 280mm and diameter 1mm with 50g slurry, and apply the air pressure of 0.4Mpa to discharge the slurry from the discharge port according to the following criteria. evaluated.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: The entire amount was discharged continuously.
○: After discharging half or more, the discharge port was clogged.
Δ: The discharge port was clogged before half of the amount was discharged.
X: It was not possible to discharge at all.

(2) Feeling of use:
Twenty female panelists conducted sensory evaluation on the feeling of use (powder removal amount, good spreadability) when each solid powder cosmetic was applied to the skin. The results are shown by the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
◎; More than 17 people answered good.
○: 12 to 16 people answered good.
Δ: 8 to 11 people answered good.
×: The number of people who answered good is 7 or less.

(3) Impact resistance ::
Each solid powder cosmetic was incorporated in a makeup compact and repeatedly dropped onto a plywood having a height of 50 cm to a thickness of 15 mm in the horizontal direction, and the number of times until abnormalities such as chipping, cracking and cracking occurred was evaluated. The evaluation criteria are as follows.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: 11 times or more.
○: 7 to 10 times.
Δ: 5 to 6 times.
X: 4 times or less.

(4) Makeup:
After 25 hours from the application of each solid powder cosmetic by 25 specialist panelists, sensory evaluation was conducted on the makeup holding. The results are shown by the following criteria.
A: 20 or more people evaluated that they had good makeup.
○: 15 or more and less than 20 evaluated that the makeup has good.
(Triangle | delta): 11 or more and less than 15 people evaluated that makeup lasting was good.
X: Less than 11 persons evaluated that the makeup lasting was good.

Examples 1-7, Comparative Examples 1-5
The solid powder cosmetics having the composition shown in Table 1 below were produced, and the test was performed. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Method for producing solid powder cosmetic)
A: Components 1 to 3 are mixed and heated to 70 ° C. to dissolve.
B: Components 4 to 17 are mixed uniformly.
C: A was added to B and dispersed uniformly, and after pulverization, a cosmetic base material was obtained.
D: A slurry was prepared by mixing 100 parts by mass of C and 100 parts by mass of the solvent.
For Example 7, 80 parts by mass of water and 20 parts by mass of ethanol were mixed in advance, and for Comparative Example 2, 50 parts by mass of water and 50 parts by mass of ethanol were previously mixed and used.
E: The slurry of D was filled by back filling into an aluminum metal pan (2.7 cm × 2.7 cm square, 4 mm thick) having a hole with a diameter of 1 mm on the bottom.
F: The molded product was dried in a 50 ° C. dryer for 7 hours.

  As is apparent from the results in Table 1, in Examples 1 to 7, all of the slurry fluidity, feeling of use, impact resistance, and makeup durability were good.

  When a solid powder cosmetic was produced with the following component composition and subjected to the above evaluation test, the slurry fluidity, feeling of use, impact resistance, and makeup durability were all good.

Example 8 (dome-shaped solid powder teak color)
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Cyclohexane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol * 1
6.0
2. White petrolatum 1.5
3. Tri (capryl / capric acid) glycerin 2.5
4). Mica 10.0
5. Synthetic mica * 9 20.0
6). Spherical silica * 10 3.0
7). Titanium oxide 1.0
8). No. 226 covered with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (4%)
4.0
9. Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake 1.0
10. Bengala 2.0
11. Mica titanium 20.0
12 Tocopherol 0.1
13. Methylparaben 0.2
14 Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
15. Barium sulfate balance
Total 100
* 9: PDM-10L (Topy Industries, Ltd.)
* 10: Sunsphere H-52 (manufactured by AGC S-Tech)

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 3 are mixed and heated to 70 ° C. to dissolve.
B: Components 4 to 15 are mixed uniformly.
C: A was added to B and uniformly dispersed, and after pulverization, a cosmetic base material was obtained.
D: A slurry was prepared by mixing 100 parts by mass of C and 100 parts by mass of water.
E: Slurry of D was filled by back filling into an aluminum metal pan having a hole with a diameter of 1 mm on the bottom.
In that case, the dome-shaped solid powder cheek color was prepared by making the opening top pressure contact member of the aluminum metal pan into an inverted dome shape.
F: The molded product was dried in a 50 ° C. dryer for 7 hours.

Example 9 (pyramid solid powder eye shadow)
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Diethoxyethyl succinate * 2 3.0
2. Methylphenyl polysiloxane * 11 5.0
3. Diisostearyl malate * 5 6.0
4). Octyldodecanol * 7 3.0
5. Sorbitan monoisostearate 0.1
6). Synthetic mica * 12 20.0
7). Boron nitride * 13 30.0
8). Aluminum stearate 3.0
9. Spherical silica * 10 1.0
10. Titanium oxide coated glass powder * 14 5.0
11. Titanium oxide coated synthetic phlogopite * 15 5.0
12 Titanium oxide / anhydrous silica composite coated mica titanium * 16 5.0
13. Silver-coated glass powder (average particle size 25 μm) * 17 2.0
14 Bengala 0.1
15. Tocopherol 0.1
16. Methylparaben 0.2
17. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
18. Lauroyl lysine-coated barium sulfate balance
Total 100
* 11: Silicone SH556 FLUID (manufactured by Dow Corning Toray)
* 12: PDM-40L (Topy Industries, Ltd.)
* 13: SHP-5 (manufactured by Mizushima Alloy Iron Company)
* 14: Metashine MT1080PB (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)
* 15: Helios R100S (Topy Industries, Ltd.)
* 16: Chimiron Splendid Gold (Merck)
* 17: Metashine MC5150PSS1 (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 5 are mixed and dissolved by heating to 70 ° C.
B: Components 6 to 18 are mixed uniformly.
C: A was added to B and dispersed uniformly, and after pulverization, a cosmetic base material was obtained.
D: A slurry was prepared by mixing 100 parts by mass of C and 120 parts by mass of water.
E: The slurry of D was filled and molded in a resin dish having a hole with a diameter of 1 mm on the bottom by back filling.
At that time, a pyramid-shaped solid powder eye shadow was prepared by changing the opening upper pressure contact member of the resin dish into a reversed pyramid shape.
F: The molded product was dried in a 50 ° C. dryer for 7 hours.

Example 10 (solid powder foundation engraved with brand logo)
(Ingredient) (mass%)
1. Liquid paraffin 5.0
2. Cyclohexane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol * 1
2.0
3. Diethoxyethyl succinate * 2 5.0
4). Mica 15.0
6). Aluminum stearate 3.0
7). Nylon powder * 18 5.0
8). Spherical silica * 19 5.0
9. Titanium oxide 20.0
10. Yellow iron oxide 2.0
11. Black iron oxide 0.2
12 Bengala 0.5
13. Mica titanium 5.0
14 Talc balance 15. Cross-linked methylsiloxane powder * 20 3.0
16. Tocopherol 0.1
17. Methylparaben 0.2
18. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
Total 100
* 18: SP-500 (Toray Industries, Inc.)
* 19: Sunsphere NP-30 (manufactured by AGC S-Tech)
* 20: Trefill E-506S (Toray Dow Corning)

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 3 are mixed and heated to 70 ° C. to dissolve.
B: Components 4 to 18 are mixed uniformly.
C: A was added to B and dispersed uniformly, and after pulverization, a cosmetic base material was obtained.
D: A slurry was prepared by mixing 100 parts by mass of C and 120 parts by mass of water.
E: The slurry of D was filled by back filling into a resin dish having a hole with a diameter of 1 mm on the bottom.
At that time, a solid powder foundation in which the brand logo was imprinted was prepared by providing an inverted brand logo sculpture on the upper pressure contact member of the opening of the resin dish.
F: The molded product was dried in a 50 ° C. dryer for 7 hours.

Claims (5)

  By mixing a cosmetic base material containing powder and an oil agent with water or an aqueous solvent alone or two or more mixed solvents to form a slurry, filling the container, and then removing the solvent A solid powder cosmetic obtained by using a cosmetic base material containing an amphiphilic ester.   The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the amphiphilic ester is an ester of dicarboxylic acid and ethoxyethanol or ethoxydiglycol. Amphiphilic ester is diethoxyethyl succinate represented by the following formula (1), bisethoxydiglycol succinate represented by the following formula (2), and cyclohexane-1 represented by the following formula (3) The solid powder cosmetic according to claim 1, which is one or more selected from 1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol.

  Solid powder cosmetics given in any 1 paragraph of Claims 1-3 shape | molded by carrying out back filling of a slurry from a hole provided in a container bottom.   The solid powder cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the surface is three-dimensionally molded.