JP2013216602A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic causing no shine even by secretion of sebum after the lapse of time while having excellent luster just after application, and making pores hardly visible.SOLUTION: A cosmetic includes: (a) coated particles each prepared by coating a thin film type substrate powder surface with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer/silicone resin composite particles; and (b) an oily component including a volatile silicone oil. A refraction index of the oily component is 1.39-1.43 as a whole.

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic, and more particularly, to a cosmetic that has excellent gloss immediately after application and has no shine even when sebum comes out over time and makes pores inconspicuous.

  It is known that the use of powder optical properties is the most effective method for correcting skin color defects, and in fact, optically coherent mica titanium is widely used. Yes. However, titanium mica has a strong surface reflection, so when overly formulated, it has the disadvantage of making it look crisp and highlighting skin irregularities such as pores and fine lines. It was very difficult to balance.

For such a situation, the surface of the flaky substrate powder such as mica titanium is coated with various particles to suppress the surface reflection derived from the substrate powder, and the unevenness of the skin is corrected and natural. The finish can be obtained.
Examples of particles to be coated that have been used so far include acrylic resins such as polymethyl methacrylate (refractive index of about 1.49, see Patent Document 1), aluminum hydroxide (refractive index of 1.58 to 1.76), and barium sulfate. (Refractive index 1.64, see Patent Document 2), zinc oxide (refractive index 1.95, see Patent Document 3), and the like.
In recent years, composite particles in which a silicone elastomer is attached to a powder such as barium sulfate for the purpose of improving usability are known (see Patent Document 4).

In cosmetics such as water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics and oily cosmetics, volatile silicones (refractive index of about 1.4) such as cyclic silicones and low molecular weight linear silicones are oils because of their light usage. It is used as the main component of the phase, and other non-volatile oils and liquid ultraviolet absorbers are used as subcomponents of the oil phase.
In water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics and oily cosmetics that use volatile silicone as the main component, the refractive index of the coated particles and the refractive index of the oil phase are significantly different, and the volatile silicone is volatilized. The coated particles function as scattering particles from the state just after coating, and the surface reflection derived from the flaky substrate powder is suppressed immediately after coating.
On the other hand, makeup products such as foundations have a glossy finish when they are adjusted so that they become glossy immediately after application. There was a problem of being evaluated.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-48707 JP 2003-342127 A JP 2003-261421 A JP 2011-1332 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above prior art, and the problem to be solved is that there is no shine even if sebum comes out over time while having excellent gloss immediately after application, and the pores are not noticeable. It is to provide cosmetics.

  As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors to solve the above-mentioned problems, coating is performed by using coated particles in which specific particles are coated on a specific powder surface and oil components having a refractive index close to that of the coated particles. Immediately after that, the refractive index of the oily component and the coated particles becomes close to each other, the function of the coated particles as the scattering particles becomes weak, the glossiness derived from the substrate powder coated with the coated particles is strong, and immediately after coating. Gives a moderate gloss. With the passage of time, sebum is secreted, and the gloss derived from the sebum increases. On the other hand, the volatile component in the oily component volatilizes, and the refractive index of the coated particle and the remaining oily component (including sebum secreted over time) gradually begins to diverge, and accordingly, the scattered particle of the coated particle As the function gradually develops. Thereby, the glossiness derived from the substrate powder coated with the coated particles is gradually reduced. As a result, it has been found that a cosmetic can be obtained that maintains an appropriate gloss and makes the pores inconspicuous not only at the time of application but also after the elapse of time (even after sebum is secreted), thereby completing the present invention. It was.

That is, the cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (a) coated particles obtained by coating the surface of a flaky substrate powder with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles, and (b) an oily component containing volatile silicone oil. In addition, the refractive index of the oil component is 1.39 to 1.43 as a whole.
In the cosmetic, it is preferable that the flaky substrate powder is a glitter powder.
In the cosmetic, it is preferable that the amount of component (a) is 1 to 10% by mass.
In the cosmetic, the blending amount of the tetramer or trimer volatile dimethylpolysiloxane is preferably 50% or more in the volatile silicone oil.
In the cosmetic, after applying to the skin, it is preferable that the gloss derived from the component (a) decreases with time.

  The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (a) coated particles obtained by coating the surface of a flaky substrate powder with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles, and (b) volatile silicone oil, and has a refractive index of As a whole, it is a cosmetic containing an oily component of 1.39 to 1.43, and has an excellent luster immediately after application, and has no gloss even if sebum appears over time, making the pores inconspicuous Fees can be provided.

Optical characteristics of a sample in which coated particles in which a silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particle is coated on a titanium mica surface are blended with (A) 20% in dimethylpolysiloxane, and (B) a sample in which the coated particles are coated on an adhesive tape. FIG. The figure which shows the optical characteristic of the sample which coat | covered the coating particle which coat | covered the polymethylmethacrylate particle | grains on the mica titanium surface in (A) dimethylpolysiloxane 20%, and (B) the sample which apply | coated this powder to the adhesive tape. is there. 2 is an SEM photograph of coated particles in which (a) silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles according to the present invention are coated on a flaky substrate powder surface.

The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (a) coated particles obtained by coating the surface of a flaky substrate powder with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles, and (b) volatile silicone oil, and has a refractive index of As a whole, it is comprised from the oil-based component which is 1.39-1.43.
Hereinafter, each component will be described in detail.

((A) Coated particles in which the surface of a flaky substrate powder is coated with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles)
The component (a) of the present invention is coated particles in which the surface of the flaky substrate powder is coated with silicone elastomer particles or coated particles in which the surface of the flaky substrate powder is coated with silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles.

  The coated particles obtained by coating the surface of the flaky substrate powder with the silicone elastomer particles are particles in which the silicone elastomer is adhered to the surface of the flaky substrate powder. The coated particles obtained by coating the surface of the flaky substrate powder with the silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles are particles in which the silicone elastomer is adhered to the surface of the flaky substrate powder using the silicone resin as a binder.

(A) The coated particles preferably have a refractive index of 1.385 to 1.435. When the refractive index of the component (a) is outside this range, the effects of the present invention may not be obtained.
However, the component (a) obtained by a normal production method as shown below satisfies this refractive index range.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the component (a) is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 1.5% by mass or more, and more preferably 3% by mass or more in the total amount of the cosmetic. Is particularly preferred. If the amount of component (a) is too small, the effects of the present invention may not be obtained.
Moreover, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of (a) component is 10 mass% or less in cosmetics whole quantity. When the blending amount of the component (a) is too large, the feeling of gloss becomes excessive, which may be inferior in lack of shine and conspicuous pores over time.
Below, the component and manufacturing method of (a) coating particle concerning this invention are demonstrated.

-Flaky substrate powder Examples of the flaky substrate powder include layered powders such as mica, talc, and kaolin. In addition, a flaky substrate powder that expresses an interference color in which the powder surface is coated with a metal oxide such as titanium dioxide, that is, a glittering powder can be used. As the flaky substrate powder, glittering powder is preferable, and titanium dioxide-coated mica (that is, mica titanium) is more preferable.

-Silicone elastomer A silicone elastomer is a rubber elastic body which has the linear organosiloxane block shown by following formula (1).
(Chemical formula 1)
-(R ¹ ₂ SiO _2/2 ) _n- (1)

R ¹ is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and n is a positive number of 5 to 5,000.
R ¹ includes, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl Group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, henicosyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, tetrasyl group, triacotyl group and the like alkyl group; cyclobutyl group, cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, cycloheptyl group and the like cycloalkyl group Aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl and naphthyl groups; aralkyl groups such as benzyl, phenethyl and β-phenylpropyl groups; alkenyl groups such as vinyl and allyl groups; and carbon atoms of these groups Some or all of the hydrogen atoms are Hydrocarbons substituted with atoms such as nitrogen atoms, chlorine atoms, bromine atoms, iodine atoms) and / or substituents such as acryloyloxy groups, methacryloyloxy groups, epoxy groups, glycidoxy groups, amino groups, mercapto groups, carboxyl groups, etc. Groups and the like.

The rubber hardness of the silicone elastomer is preferably 10 or more, more preferably 20 or more, as measured by a type E durometer as defined in JIS K 6253. If the type E durometer is less than 10, the cohesiveness is increased, and the feeling of use such as a smooth feeling and smoothness and the extensibility may be poor.
The hard rubber hardness of the silicone elastomer is preferably 90 or less, more preferably 80 or less, as measured by a type A durometer. If it exceeds 90 with a type A durometer, the soft feel may be poor.

The silicone elastomer is obtained from a curable liquid silicone composition, and its curing is performed by methoxysilyl group (≡SiOCH ₃ ) and hydroxysilyl group (≡SiOH), hydrosilyl group (≡SiH) and hydroxysilyl group ( Condensation reaction with ≡SiOH), etc., radical reaction between mercaptopropylsilyl group (≡Si—C ₃ H ₆ SH) and vinylsilyl group (≡SiCH═CH ₂ ), vinylsilyl group (≡SiCH═CH ₂ ) and hydrosilyl group Examples thereof include those by addition reaction with (≡SiH), but those by condensation reaction or addition reaction are preferred from the viewpoint of reactivity.

For example, when a silicone elastomer is obtained by curing by addition reaction, the following average composition formula (2)
(Chemical formula 2)
R ² _a R ³ _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} (2)
An organopolysiloxane having at least two monovalent olefinically unsaturated groups in one molecule represented by the following average composition formula (3)
(Chemical formula 3)
R ⁴ _c H _d SiO _{(4-cd) / 2} (3)
The organohydrogenpolysiloxane having at least three hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule represented by the formula is such that the hydrosilyl group is 0.5 to 2 per one monovalent olefinically unsaturated group. What is necessary is just to carry out addition polymerization of the curable liquid silicone composition mix | blended by the ratio in presence of a platinum-type catalyst.

R ² is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms excluding an aliphatic unsaturated group.
Examples of R ² include methyl group, ethyl group, propyl group, butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, undecyl group, dodecyl group, tetradecyl group, pentadecyl group, hexadecyl group. Group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, henicosyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, tetrasyl group, triacotyl group and the like alkyl group; cyclobutyl group, cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, cycloheptyl group and the like cycloalkyl group Aryl groups such as phenyl group, tolyl group and naphthyl group; aralkyl groups such as benzyl group, phenethyl group and β-phenylpropyl group; and some or all of hydrogen atoms bonded to carbon atoms of these groups are halogen atoms (Fluorine atom, chlorine atom, bromine atom, iodine Atoms) and / or hydrocarbon groups substituted with substituents such as acryloyloxy groups, methacryloyloxy groups, epoxy groups, glycidoxy groups, carboxyl groups, and the like.
R ² is preferably 80 mol% or more, preferably 90 mol% or more, and is a non-reactive group such as an alkyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, or a cycloalkyl group.

R ³ is a monovalent olefinically unsaturated group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
Examples of R ³ include a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butenyl group, a pentenyl group, a hexenyl group, and the like, and industrially a vinyl group is preferable.
a and b are positive numbers represented by 0 <a <3, 0 <b ≦ 3, 0.1 ≦ a + b ≦ 3, and 0 <a ≦ 2.295, 0.005 ≦ b ≦ 2.3, It is preferable that 0.5 ≦ a + b ≦ 2.3.

R ⁴ is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms excluding an aliphatic unsaturated group.
Examples of R ⁴ include the same as R ² .
c and d are positive numbers represented by 0 <c <3, 0 <d ≦ 3, 0.1 ≦ c + d ≦ 3, and 0 <c ≦ 2.295, 0.005 ≦ d ≦ 2.3, 0 It is preferable that .5 ≦ c + d ≦ 2.3.

  For example, when a silicone elastomer is obtained by curing by a condensation reaction, an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydroxyl groups bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule and an organo having at least three hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule. A liquid silicone composition composed of hydrogen polysiloxane may be subjected to condensation polymerization in the presence of a condensation catalyst.

The blending amount of the silicone elastomer is preferably 0.5 parts by mass or more, more preferably 1 part by mass or more, and particularly preferably 2 parts by mass or more with respect to 100 parts by mass of the flaky substrate powder. If the blending amount is too small, a good feeling of use such as remarkable soft focus effect, smooth feeling, smoothness, extensibility, moist feeling and softness may not be obtained.
In addition, the blending amount of the silicone elastomer is preferably 100 parts by mass or less, more preferably 70 parts by mass or less, and particularly preferably 50 parts by mass or less with respect to 100 parts by mass of the flaky substrate powder. If the blending amount is too large, the cohesiveness is increased, and the feeling of use such as a smooth feeling and smoothness and the extensibility may be poor.

Silicone resin It is preferable to use a silicone resin as a binder between the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer. By using the silicone resin as a binder to obtain coated particles, the silicone elastomer is fixed to the surface of the flaky substrate powder, making it difficult for the silicone elastomer to fall off the powder surface, increasing the uniformity of silicone elastomer adhesion, and a better feeling of use. Can be given. The silicone resin may be partially or entirely attached to the flaky substrate powder surface and / or the silicone elastomer surface.

The silicone resin of the present invention is selected from [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ], [R ⁵ ₂ SiO _2/2 ], [R ⁵ ₃ SiO _1/2 ], [SiO _4/2 ], and at least [R ⁵ It is a polymer composed of one or more structural units containing [SiO _3/2 ] or [SiO _4/2 ].
R ⁵ is independently a monovalent organic group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
According to the following production method, a silicone resin is produced by hydrolysis / condensation reaction of a compound selected from alkoxysilane, silanol group-containing silane and partial condensate thereof, but silanol groups remain without partial condensation reaction. Precisely, it is a copolymer including those selected from the following structural units containing silanol groups.

_{Unless it} is a structure containing [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ] or [SiO _4/2 ], it cannot be a resinous solid. If the structural unit contains at least [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ] or [SiO _4/2 ], is a resin-like solid at room temperature and is insoluble in an oil used in cosmetics as shown below, The ratio, the degree of polymerization, and the hardness are not particularly limited. However, when the melting point is low, the composite particles are fused with each other during storage in a high-temperature atmosphere or in the drying step. Therefore, the melting point is preferably 50 ° C. or higher, more preferably 80 ° C. or higher.
Since there are many [SiO _4/2 ] units and slipperiness decreases, [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ], [R ⁵ ₂ SiO _2/2 ], and [R ⁵ ₃ SiO _1/2 ] are selected. A polymer composed of one or more structural units including [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ] is preferred. Further, a structure in which 50 mol% or more is [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ] units is more preferable, and a structure in which 70 mol% or more is [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ] units is particularly preferable.

R ⁵ includes, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl Group, hexadecyl group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group and other alkyl groups; cyclobutyl group, cyclopentyl group, cyclohexyl group, cycloheptyl group and other cycloalkyl groups; phenyl group, tolyl group, naphthyl group and other aryl groups Aralkyl groups such as benzyl group, phenethyl group and β-phenylpropyl group; alkenyl groups such as vinyl group and allyl group; and some or all of hydrogen atoms bonded to carbon atoms of these groups are halogen atoms (fluorine Atoms, chlorine atoms, bromine atoms, iodine atoms) and the like And / or a hydrocarbon group substituted with a substituent such as an acryloyloxy group, a methacryloyloxy group, an epoxy group, a glycidoxy group, an amino group, a mercapto group, or a carboxyl group.
A resinous silicone is produced by a hydrolysis / condensation reaction of a compound selected from alkoxysilanes, silanol group-containing silanes, and partial condensates thereof by the following production method. From the viewpoint of condensation reactivity, R ⁵ is preferably 50 mol% or more of a methyl group, and more preferably 70 mol% or more of a methyl group.

When using a silicone resin as a binder, the compounding amount of the silicone resin is preferably 10 parts by mass or more, more preferably 20 parts by mass or more, and particularly preferably 30 parts by mass or more with respect to 100 parts by mass of the silicone elastomer. If the blending amount is too small, the uniformity of silicone elastomer adhesion may be low.
Further, the blending amount of the silicone resin is preferably 500 parts by mass or less, more preferably 300 parts by mass or less, and particularly preferably 200 parts by mass or less with respect to 100 parts by mass of the silicone elastomer. When the amount is increased, the soft feel of the silicone elastomer may not be exhibited.

  The particle size of the adhered silicone elastomer is preferably 50 nm to 1 μm, and more preferably 100 to 800 nm.

(A) Method for producing coated particles The coated particles obtained by attaching a silicone elastomer to the surface of a flaky substrate powder using a silicone resin as a binder are, for example, mixed water in which the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer are dispersed. It can be obtained by adding a compound selected from alkoxysilane, silanol group-containing silane and partial condensate thereof to the dispersion, and subjecting these compounds to hydrolysis / condensation reaction.

  The flaky substrate powder is preferably 3 to 150 parts by mass, more preferably 5 to 50 parts by mass with respect to 100 parts by mass of water to be blended. If the amount is less than 3 parts by mass, the efficiency may deteriorate. If the amount exceeds 150 parts by mass, the viscosity of the mixed water dispersion increases, and thus it may be difficult to attach the silicone elastomer to the flaky substrate powder. As the flaky substrate powder, one prepared in advance in an aqueous dispersion may be used.

The method for producing the silicone elastomer is not particularly limited, and a known method for preparing a dispersion of a silicone elastomer is used. For example, it can be produced by emulsifying a curable liquid silicone composition in water using a surfactant and then causing a curing reaction.
For example, when a silicone elastomer is obtained by curing by an addition reaction, a surfactant and water are added to the curable liquid silicone composition composed of an organopolysiloxane having an olefinically unsaturated group and an organohydrogenpolysiloxane. There is a method of emulsifying and making an emulsion and then adding a platinum-based catalyst to carry out addition polymerization.

Moreover, the method of using the curable liquid silicone composition manufactured by emulsion polymerization as another method is mentioned. For example, when a silicone elastomer is obtained by curing by a condensation reaction, the general formula [R ⁶ ₂ SiO] _m (R ⁶ is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, m is a number of 3 to 7). The surfactant is added to the cyclopolysiloxane and emulsified, then acid is added and the polymerization reaction is carried out, followed by neutralization by addition of alkali and both ends of the linear molecule. An emulsion of an organopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl groups bonded to silicon atoms is prepared. A method of condensation polymerization by adding an organotrialkoxysilane and a condensation catalyst to this can be mentioned.

  When emulsifying, a general emulsifier / disperser may be used. Examples thereof include a high-speed rotary centrifugal type agitator such as a homodisper, a high-speed rotary shear type agitator such as a homomixer, and a high-pressure jet type such as a homogenizer. Examples thereof include an emulsifying disperser, a colloid mill, and an ultrasonic emulsifier.

  The obtained silicone elastomer aqueous dispersion is preferably used as it is without being subjected to solid-liquid separation. The mixed water dispersion in which the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer are dispersed can be obtained, for example, by mixing the flaky substrate powder, the silicone elastomer dispersion, and water as necessary.

  The mixed aqueous dispersion in which the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer are dispersed preferably contains a surfactant. When the silicone elastomer is produced using a surfactant, the surfactant is already contained in the aqueous dispersion of the silicone elastomer. In some cases, it may be preferable to add a surfactant for the purpose of improving the dispersibility of the flaky substrate powder and improving the uniformity of the silicone elastomer to be coated on the surface. The blending amount of the surfactant in the mixed aqueous dispersion of the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer is preferably 0.01 to 3 parts by mass with respect to 100 parts by mass of water.

  Alkoxysilanes, silanol group-containing silanes, and partial condensates thereof are hydrolyzed and condensed by the catalytic action of an acidic substance or an alkaline substance to form a silicone resin.

Alkoxysilanes are represented by the general formulas R ⁵ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₃ , R ⁵ ₂ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₂ , R ⁵ ₃ SiOR ⁷ and Si (OR ⁷ ) ₄ .
R ⁵ is the same as above.
R ⁷ is an unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Examples of R ⁷ include a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, and a hexyl group, and a methyl group is preferable from the viewpoint of reactivity.

Alkoxysilanes R ⁵ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₃ , R ⁵ ₂ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₂ , R ⁵ ₃ SiOR ⁷ , and Si (OR ⁷ ) ₄ are each a resinous silicone structural unit [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ], [R ⁵ ₂ SiO _2/2 ], [R ⁵ ₃ SiO _1/2 ], [SiO _4/2 ]. Therefore, the blending ratio of R ⁵ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₃ , R ⁵ ₂ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₂ , R ⁵ ₃ SiOR ⁷ , Si (OR ⁷ ) ₄ is set so as to have a desired resinous silicone structure. Just decide. That is, in a molar ratio, the desired structural unit [R ⁵ SiO _3/2 ]: [R ⁵ ₂ SiO _2/2 ]: [R ⁵ ₃ SiO _1/2 ]: [SiO _4/2 ] = R ⁵ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₃ , R ⁵ ₂ Si (OR ⁷ ) ₂ , R ⁵ ₃ SiOR ⁷ , Si (OR ⁷ ) ₄ may be used.

The silanol group-containing silane is a compound in which R ^{7 in} the general formula of the alkoxysilane is hydrogen. What is necessary is just to select suitably from an alkoxysilane, silanol group containing silane, and these condensates so that it may become a desired structural unit.

While stirring an aqueous dispersion containing at least flaky substrate powder, silicone elastomer, acidic substance or alkaline substance, a compound selected from alkoxysilane, silanol group-containing silane and partial condensates thereof is added to hydrolyze and condense. React. Compounds selected from alkoxysilanes, silanol group-containing silanes and partial condensates thereof may be gradually added dropwise, or may be added in a form dissolved in water or dispersed in water, You may add what mix | blended water-soluble organic solvents, such as alcohol. By the hydrolysis / condensation reaction, a silicone resin is formed on the surface of the flaky substrate powder and / or the surface of the silicone elastomer, and at the same time, the adhesion of the flaky substrate powder and the silicone elastomer occurs. Coated particles are formed on the surface of the body by attaching a silicone elastomer using a silicone resin as a binder.
For the purpose of uniformly attaching the silicone elastomer to the powder surface, a water-soluble organic solvent such as alcohol may be added to the aqueous dispersion.

After the hydrolysis / condensation reaction, water is removed. The removal of water can be performed, for example, by heating the aqueous dispersion after the reaction under normal pressure or reduced pressure, specifically, a method of removing the water by leaving the dispersion still under heating, Examples include a method of removing moisture while stirring and flowing the dispersion under heating, a method of spraying and dispersing the dispersion in a hot air stream like a spray dryer, and a method of using a fluidized heat medium.
In addition, as a pretreatment for this operation, the dispersion may be concentrated by a method such as filtration separation such as heat dehydration and pressure filtration, centrifugation, decantation, etc., and if necessary, the dispersion may be concentrated with water or alcohol. You may wash.

((B) Oil component including volatile silicone oil)
Volatile silicone oil is a silicone oil having a boiling point of 300 ° C. or less at 1 atmosphere. Examples of the volatile silicone oil include low molecular weight dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

  In addition, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of the tetramer or trimer dimethylpolysiloxane which is volatile silicone oil is 50% or more in volatile silicone oil. If the amount of the tetramer or trimer dimethylpolysiloxane is too small, it may take too much time to realize the effect.

Oily components other than volatile silicone oils include non-volatile silicone oils such as high molecular weight dimethylpolysiloxane (for example, 6 cs), fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, oil-soluble ultraviolet rays. An absorbent etc. are mentioned.
In the present invention, surfactants and dispersants such as silicone polyols (eg, PEG-10 dimethicone) and silicone polyglyceryl that dissolve in oil are included in the oil component.

  In the cosmetic of the present invention, the refractive index of the oil component including (b) volatile silicone oil needs to be 1.39 to 1.43 as a whole. Moreover, it is preferable that it is 1.42 or less. If the refractive index of the oil component is outside the range of 1.39 to 1.43, the refractive index of the component (a) is greatly different from that of the component. Or pores may be noticeable.

  The blending amount of the volatile silicone oil is preferably 50% or more in the oil component. If the blending amount of the volatile silicone oil in the oil component is too small, there may be inferior lack of shine and conspicuous pores over time.

  In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above components, other components usually used in cosmetics can be blended as necessary, and can be produced by a conventional method. Examples of such components include powder components other than component (a), surfactants and dispersants other than component (b), moisturizers, water-soluble polymers, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, thickeners, and coatings. Agent, sequestering agent, lower alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, sugar, amino acid, organic amine, polymer emulsion, pH adjuster, skin nutrient, vitamin, antioxidant, antioxidant aid, pigment, stabilizer, Coloring agents, preservatives and the like can be mentioned.

  In the cosmetic of the present invention, a powder component other than the component (a) can be blended within a range that does not impair the effect. Examples of such powder components include titanium oxide, zinc oxide, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, ultramarine, cerium oxide, talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, bentonite, clay, silicic acid, and silicic anhydride. , Magnesium silicate, zinc stearate, fluorine-containing phlogopite, synthetic talc, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, calcium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, chromium oxide, calamine, magnesium carbonate and Inorganic powders such as these composites; organic powders such as silicone powder, silicone elastic powder, polyurethane powder, cellulose powder, nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, starch, polyethylene powder, and composites thereof .

  The cosmetic of the present invention can be widely applied to cosmetics containing an oily component. Among such cosmetics, the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or an oily cosmetic. Examples of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or oily cosmetic include foundations, sunscreens, cosmetic liquids, milky lotions, creams, packs, lipsticks, eye shadows, eyeliners, mascaras, facial cleansers, and detergents.

  The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the amount is shown in mass%.

  When cosmetics are prepared to have a glossy finish immediately after application, there is a problem that the gloss on the skin becomes too strong due to the sebum derived from the sebum that occurs over time. It was. In order to solve this problem, the inventors of the present invention wanted to develop a cosmetic that has a gloss immediately after application and that reduces the gloss over time. If such a cosmetic can be developed, even if sebum-derived gloss (shine) is produced over time, the gloss of the cosmetic itself is reduced, so that skin having an appropriate gloss can be realized.

  When the refractive index of the particles coated on the surface of the flaky substrate powder is close to the refractive index of the oily component in the cosmetic, the present inventors will match the refractive index and give a gloss. When the volatile silicone oil in the oil component is volatilized and sebum (refractive index 1.45 to 1.47) comes out, matching of refractive index does not occur, gloss is reduced, and a remarkable unevenness correction effect is also exhibited. I thought I could do it.

Accordingly, coated particles in which the surface of the flaky substrate powder (titanium mica) is coated with the silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles are produced by the following production method, and 20% is blended in dimethylpolysiloxane (refractive index 1.4). And the optical properties of the coated particles alone were measured. The results are shown in FIG. 1 (A) and FIG. 1 (B), respectively.
Similarly, 20% of coated particles in which the surface of a flaky substrate powder (titanium mica) was coated with polymethyl methacrylate particles (refractive index 1.49) were mixed in dimethylpolysiloxane (refractive index 1.4). And the optical properties of the powder alone were measured. The results are shown in FIGS. 2 (A) and 2 (B), respectively.
The optical properties were measured with a variable angle gloss meter (Murakami Color Research Laboratory). The incident angle of light of the variable glossiness meter is fixed at 45 °, and the light reflection characteristics of each sample are measured while changing the light receiving angle in the range of 65 ° to 175 °. It was evaluated with.

・ Production method of coated particles in which flaky substrate powder surface is coated with silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles A mica titanium (trade name: Timilon Super) is placed in a 3 liter glass flask equipped with a stirrer using a vertical stirring blade. Red (manufactured by Merck), particle diameter of about 20 μm) 180 g, (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer aqueous dispersion 31.5 g (100 parts by mass of mica titanium) (8.2% of (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer) Parts), 30 g of a 30% aqueous solution of dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride (trade name: Cation BB, manufactured by NOF Corporation), 29 g of 28% ammonia water, and 1,233 g of water. After adjusting the temperature to 5 to 10 ° C., 28.3 g of methyltrimethoxysilane ((dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer 100 parts by mass is an amount in which the silicone resin after hydrolysis and condensation reaction becomes 114.3 parts by mass. ) Was added dropwise over 20 minutes, and the liquid temperature during this period was kept at 5 to 10 ° C., followed by further stirring for 1 hour. Subsequently, it heated to 55-60 degreeC, it stirred for 1 hour, maintaining the temperature, and the hydrolysis and condensation reaction of methyltrimethoxysilane was completed. The obtained suspension was dehydrated using a pressure filter. The dehydrated product was transferred to a 3 liter glass flask equipped with a stirrer with a vertical stirring blade, added with 1,000 g of water, stirred for 30 minutes, and then dehydrated using a pressure filter. Again, the dehydrated product was transferred to a glass flask, immersed in an oil bath at 110 ° C., and dried with stirring to obtain coated particles having fluidity.
The refractive index (measurement temperature: 25 ° C.) of the used silicone elastomer ((dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer) is 1.40, and the refractive index (measurement temperature: 25 ° C.) of the silicone resin used as the binder is 1. 42. The coated particles had a refractive index of 1.41.
An SEM photograph of the obtained coated particles is shown in FIG.

Comparing FIG. 1 (B) and FIG. 2 (B) in which the composite particles themselves were measured, the coated particles with the surface coated with the silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles were coated with the polymethyl methacrylate particles on the surface. It can be seen that the brightness value is lower than the particles and the gloss is low. On the other hand, when (A) in FIG. 1 and (A) in FIG. 2 are compared, the one in which the coated particles are blended in a solvent having a close refractive index ((A) in FIG. 1) is in a solvent having a different refractive index. It can be seen that the brightness value is slightly higher than that of the case where the coated particles are blended ((A) in FIG. 2). This is because the function of the coated particles as scattering particles is weakened when the coated particles are blended in a solvent having a close refractive index.
Therefore, coated particles such as dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone cross-polymer particle-coated mica titanium can be used in solvents with different refractive indexes (oil and sebum after volatilization of volatile oils) from solvents with similar refractive indexes (volatile silicone oils, etc.). It was suggested that gloss can be reduced by making it exist in the inside.

Next, such coated particles were actually blended in cosmetics having oily components having various refractive indexes. The dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particle-coated mica titanium used in the following test examples is all coated particles obtained by the above-described production method.
The inventors changed the kind of oil component to be blended, and produced a sample (oil-based cosmetic) having the blend composition shown in Table 1 below by the following production method. And each sample was evaluated on the following evaluation criteria about evaluation item (1), (3), (4). The results are shown in Table 1.

-Oily cosmetic production method The oil and surfactant (PEG-10 dimethicone) were mixed, the powder was added, and the mixture was dispersed with a homogenizer (9000 rpm) for 2 minutes. Thereafter, deaeration was performed to obtain an oily cosmetic.

The evaluation method used in the present invention will be described below.
Evaluation (1): Gloss 15 professional panels applied a sample to the face and evaluated the feeling of use immediately after application.
○: More than 12 panelists answered that there was an appropriate gloss.
Δ: A panel of 8 or more and less than 12 responded that there was an appropriate gloss.
X: The panel of less than 8 persons answered that there was moderate gloss.

Evaluation (2): Inconspicuous pores 15 professional panels applied samples to their faces and evaluated the feeling of use immediately after application.
○: More than 12 panels answered that pores were not noticeable.
Δ: A panel of 8 or more and less than 12 responded that pores were not noticeable.
X: The panel of less than 8 persons answered that pores were not conspicuous.

Evaluation (3): Lack of shine over time 15 professional panels applied the sample to the face and evaluated the feeling of use after 4 hours.
○: More than 12 panelists answered that there was no shine.
Δ: A panel of 8 or more and less than 12 responded that there was no shine.
X: The panel of less than 8 responded that there was no shine.

Evaluation (4): Poor conspicuous pores over time Fifteen professional panels applied a sample to the face and evaluated the feeling of use after 4 hours.
○: More than 12 panels answered that pores were not noticeable.
Δ: A panel of 8 or more and less than 12 responded that pores were not noticeable.
X: The panel of less than 8 persons answered that pores were not conspicuous.

According to Test Examples 1-1 to 1-4, the refractive index is close to that of the coated particles obtained by coating the surface of the flaky substrate powder with dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particles, which are silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles (1.4. The oily cosmetic containing an oily component in the vicinity was excellent in gloss at the time of application, no shine even over time, and pores were not noticeable.
Further, even when the same coated particles are blended, Test Example 1-5 using an oil component having a refractive index greatly different from that of the coated particles is weak in coating and weak in shine and pores over time. It became.

Furthermore, the present inventors changed the kind of oil component and produced a sample (water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic) having the composition shown in Table 2 by the following production method. And each sample was evaluated by the said evaluation criteria about evaluation item (1), (3), (4). The results are shown in Table 2.
The oily components used in the following test examples were the same as those in Table 1 above. Further, the refractive indexes of dimethicone (1.5cs), cyclopentasiloxane, squalane and liquid paraffin used in Table 2 were 1.39, 1.4, 1.43 and 1.47, respectively.

-Water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic production method Oil and surfactant (PEG-10 dimethicone) were mixed, powder was added and dispersed with a homogenizer (9000 rpm) for 1 minute. Thereafter, the aqueous phase was gradually added and emulsified with a homogenizer (9000 rpm) for 1 minute. Thereafter, deaeration was performed to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.

According to Test Examples 2-1 to 2-10, the coating particles obtained by coating the surface of the flaky substrate powder with dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particles and an oil component containing an oil component having a refractive index close to (approximately 1.4). The water-type emulsified cosmetic was excellent in gloss at the time of application, had no shine even over time, and pores were not noticeable.
In addition, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of Test Example 2-10 was slightly weak at the time of application, but it was excellent in lack of shine and conspicuous pores over time.
Moreover, even when the same coated particles are blended, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics using oily components whose refractive index is significantly different from the coated particles (Test Examples 2-11 and 2-12) have a weak gloss when applied. Finished.

Therefore, it turns out that the gloss of cosmetics itself can be reduced by mix | blending said coating | coated particle | grains and the oil-based component with a refractive index close | similar to cosmetics. Such cosmetics can be used in solvents with different refractive indexes (oils and sebum after volatilization of volatile oils) after a lapse of time, so that no shine and conspicuous pores (unevenness correction effect) are realized. it can.
From the above, the cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (a) coated particles obtained by coating the surface of a flaky substrate powder with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles, and (b) volatile silicone oil. It is necessary that the oily component is included, and the refractive index of the oily component is 1.39 to 1.43 as a whole.

Next, the inventors manufactured a sample (water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic) having the composition shown in Table 3 below, in which particles to be coated on the surface of the flaky substrate powder were changed, by the above-described manufacturing method. did. And each sample was evaluated by the said evaluation criteria about evaluation item (1)-(4). The results are shown in Table 3.
In addition, the number in the parenthesis described after the component in Table 3 is the refractive index of each coated particle.

According to Table 3, Test Example 3-2 and Test Example 3-3 in which 5% of coated particles coated with particles other than dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particles were blended had insufficient gloss when applied.
Further, in Test Example 3-4 in which only the flaky substrate powder not coated with particles is blended, the gloss at the time of application is sufficient, but the pores are not conspicuous, and after 4 hours of application, the gloss is excessive. The shine was conspicuous.
Further, when 15% of barium sulfate-coated titanium mica is blended in order to ensure sufficient gloss after application (Test Example 3-5), gloss after application appears, but it seems to be derived from sebum 4 hours after application. The luster was felt excessively and the finish was prominent.

  Next, the inventors prepared a sample (water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic) having the composition shown in Table 4 below, in which the substrate powder coated on the surface with dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particles was changed. It was manufactured by the above manufacturing method. And each sample was evaluated by the said evaluation criteria about evaluation item (1), (3), (4). The results are shown in Table 4.

According to Table 4, when the mica titanium was used as the substrate powder rather than the synthetic phlogopite, sericite, and barium sulfate, the gloss at the time of coating was excellent.
Therefore, it is preferable to use glitter powder represented by titanium mica as the flaky substrate powder.

  Next, the amount of the coated particles (a) of the present invention was examined. The inventors of the present invention manufactured a sample (water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic) having the composition shown in Table 5 below by the above manufacturing method. And each sample was evaluated by the said evaluation criteria about evaluation item (1), (3), (4). The results are shown in Table 5.

According to Table 5, when the blending amount of (a) coated particles was too small, there was no gloss at the time of application, and the lack of shine and conspicuous pores over time could not be satisfied.
In addition, when the amount of the coated particles (a) was too large, the gloss was too strong, and over time the shine and pores were noticeable due to excessive gloss.
Therefore, the blending amount of the coated particles (a) of the present invention is preferably 1 to 10%.

  Below, the formulation example of the cosmetics of this invention is given. The present invention is not limited by this formulation example.

Formulation Example 1 Liquid Foundation Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 15% by mass
Dimethicone (2cs) 5
Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane 10
Diethylhexyl succinate 3
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 1
2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate 2
PEG-10 Dimethicone 1.5
Sorbitan sesquiisostearate 1
PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 2
Fragrance 0.05
Distearyldimonium hectorite 0.5
Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particle-coated mica titanium 3
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 7
Silicone-treated iron oxide 2.5
Silicone-treated talc 2
Spherical Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer 5
1,3-butylene glycol 6
Glycerin 3
Sodium L-glutamate 1
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Purified water residue

Formulation Example 2 Cream Foundation Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5% by mass
Dimethicone (2cs) 20
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 1
Cetyl octanoate 1
Squalane 1
Octyl methoxycinnamate 3
PEG-10 Dimethicone 2
Bisbutyl dimethicone polyglyceryl-3 1
Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 2
Fragrance 0.05
Distearyl dimonium hectorite 1
Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particle-coated mica titanium 5
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 9
Silicone-treated iron oxide 3
Spherical polymethyl methacrylate 5
1,3-butylene glycol 6
Glycerin 5
EDTA 3Na 2H2O 0.2
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Ethanol 3
Purified water residue

Formulation Example 3 Sunscreen Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10% by mass
Dimethicone (1cs) 15
Isododecane 5
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 2
Octyl methoxycinnamate 5
PEG-10 Dimethicone 2
Diglyceryl isostearate 1
Fragrance 0.1
Distearyldimonium hectorite 0.2
Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particle-coated mica titanium 3
Surface treatment (methyl hydrogen polysiloxane + dodecyl treatment) Titanium oxide (fine particles)
10
Methylsiloxane network polymer powder 3
Polymethyl methacrylate 2
Glycerin 3
Ethanol 4
Potassium chloride 0.2
Magnesium sulfate 0.2
Sodium edetate 0.2
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Methylparaben 0.2
Ethylparaben 0.1
Purified water residue

Formulation Example 4 Oily Foundation Dimethicone (2cs) Residual Dimethicone (1cs) 15% by mass
Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 10
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 3
Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 5
PEG-10 Dimethicone 2
Diglyceryl isostearate 1
Fragrance 0.1
Distearyldimonium hectorite 0.5
Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer particle-coated mica titanium 7
Silicone-treated titanium oxide 10
Silicone-treated iron oxide 5
Spherical polymethyl methacrylate 10
Ethanol 5

Claims (5)

(A) coated particles obtained by coating the surface of a flaky substrate powder with silicone elastomer particles or silicone elastomer / silicone resin composite particles;
(B) includes an oil component including volatile silicone oil;
Cosmetics characterized in that the refractive index of the oil component is 1.39 to 1.43 as a whole.   2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the flaky substrate powder is a glittering powder.   The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of component (a) is 1 to 10% by mass.   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the tetramer or trimer volatile dimethylpolysiloxane is 50% or more in the volatile silicone oil. .   The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the gloss derived from the component (a) decreases with time after being applied to the skin.