JP2013060693A - Anti-snagging yarn and fabric using the same - Google Patents

Anti-snagging yarn and fabric using the same Download PDF

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JP2013060693A
JP2013060693A JP2012180992A JP2012180992A JP2013060693A JP 2013060693 A JP2013060693 A JP 2013060693A JP 2012180992 A JP2012180992 A JP 2012180992A JP 2012180992 A JP2012180992 A JP 2012180992A JP 2013060693 A JP2013060693 A JP 2013060693A
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yarn
fabric
snag
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crimped
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JP6037716B2 (en
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Hiroyuki Kinouchi
裕之 木ノ内
Shoichi Akita
祥一 秋田
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Asahi Kasei Corp
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Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an anti-snagging yarn suitable for innerwear, sportswear, swimming wear, and the like and to provide a fabric using the same and having an excellent anti-snagging property and a good air permeability.SOLUTION: The anti-snagging yarn includes a crimped yarn having a number of crimps of 75/2.54 cm or more in a single yarn and has a bulkiness coefficient of 0.01-0.06. The fabric includes 70wt% or more of the anti-snagging yarn on the surface side of the fabric, and the snagging property by a 15 hours test according to JIS-L1058 (D-3 method) is grade 3 or higher and the air permeability is 80 cc/cm/s or more by JIS-L1018 8.33.1 when the fabric is knitted and by a JIS-L1096 8.27.1A method when the fabric is woven.

Description

本発明は抗スナッグ糸及びそれを用いた布帛に関する。より詳細には、本発明は、着用時に問題となるスナッグの発生が起こり難く、かつ、通気性が良好な、インナー、スポーツウェア、水着等に使用可能な抗スナッグ糸及びそれを用いた布帛に関する。   The present invention relates to an anti-snag yarn and a fabric using the same. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anti-snag yarn that can be used for innerwear, sportswear, swimwear, etc., and a fabric using the same, which is unlikely to generate a snag that causes problems when worn and has good breathability. .

従来、インナー、スポーツウェア、水着等の着用時の問題としてスナッグがある。スナッグとは、椅子の傷、金属のバリ、爪などが布帛表面に引っ掛かり、布帛を構成している糸の一部が布帛表面から引き出され、外観を損なう欠点をいう。   Conventionally, there is a snag as a problem when wearing innerwear, sportswear, swimwear and the like. Snag refers to a defect in which a chair scratch, a metal burr, a nail, or the like is caught on the surface of the fabric, and a part of the yarn constituting the fabric is pulled out from the fabric surface to impair the appearance.

このスナッグを抑制する方法として、一般的には布帛の組織や密度を工夫する。具体的には、布帛を、凹凸の少ない組織や高密度に仕上げることである。このように、凹凸のような引っ掛かる布帛表面状態をなくすことで、スナッグは抑制される。しかしながら、この布帛は、外観が単調になり、意匠性に劣り、また、高密度にすることで硬い風合いのものしか得られず、通気性は低下し、インナーやスポーツウェアの着心地を左右する清涼感が乏しいものとなる。   As a method for suppressing this snag, the fabric structure and density are generally devised. Specifically, the fabric is finished to have a texture with less unevenness and a high density. Thus, snag is suppressed by eliminating the cloth surface state which is caught like unevenness. However, this fabric has a monotonous appearance, is inferior in design, can only be obtained with a hard texture by increasing the density, and the breathability is reduced, which affects the comfort of the inner and sportswear. The refreshing feeling is poor.

これらの問題を解決するために、布帛に使用する糸の改良が検討され、これまでにスナッグを抑制する糸が種々提案されている。
例えば、以下の特許文献1には、トルク方向の異なる2種の高捲縮仮撚加工糸をエア混繊させた低トルク複合糸を使用した編地が提案されている。この複合糸を使用すれば、捲縮発現により、編み地が密となるため、スナッグの発生が抑えられ、かつ、単糸繊度の小さい糸を使用することで、風合いも硬くならずに済む。しかしながら、編み目を、見た目がわからなくなるほど密にしないと、バルキー性の高い高捲縮仮撚加工糸の単糸が引っ掛かり、スナッグ抑制が不十分となるため、限定された編み組織や単調な外観になってしまう。さらに、このような編地は、高密度であることから、通気性が低く、着用時の清涼感は乏しくなってしまう。また、トルク方向の異なる糸を必要とするため、使用糸が制限される。
In order to solve these problems, improvement of the yarn used for the fabric has been studied, and various yarns for suppressing snag have been proposed so far.
For example, Patent Document 1 below proposes a knitted fabric using a low torque composite yarn obtained by air-mixing two types of high crimp false twisted yarns having different torque directions. If this composite yarn is used, the knitted fabric becomes dense due to the occurrence of crimping, so that the generation of snag is suppressed and the use of a yarn having a small single yarn fineness does not make the texture hard. However, if the stitches are not dense enough to make the appearance unclear, the single yarn of the highly crimped false twisted yarn with high bulkiness will be caught and the snag will be insufficient, so the limited knitting structure and monotonous appearance Become. Furthermore, since such a knitted fabric has a high density, the air permeability is low, and the refreshing feeling when worn is poor. In addition, since yarns having different torque directions are required, the yarns used are limited.

また、以下の特許文献2には、高捲縮糸と非捲縮糸のエア混繊糸において、混繊糸の表面に露出する高捲縮糸と非捲縮糸の割合を規定することで、好表面タッチとスナッグ抑制効果を有する布帛を得ることが記載されている。   Patent Document 2 below defines the ratio of the high crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn exposed on the surface of the mixed yarn in the air-mixed yarn of the high crimped yarn and the non-crimped yarn. It is described that a fabric having a good surface touch and a snug suppressing effect is obtained.

さらに、以下の特許文献3には、仮撚加工糸と高収縮原糸との混繊糸において、高収縮原糸が仮撚加工糸を締め付けることでバルキー性を抑え、スナッグを抑制できることが記載されている。
しかしながら、特許文献2又は特許文献3に記載された方法によるスナッグ抑制効果は限定的であり、比較的負荷の小さい条件によるスナッグ評価方法(特許文献2ではJIS−L1058のD−4法、特許文献3では同D−1法)において一定の効果を有することが記載されているものの、実際の着用シーンで椅子の傷や金属のバリ、爪などに引っ掛かることを想定した同D−3法条件における、スナッグ抑制効果は十分なものではなかった。さらに、通常、D−3法では5時間処理後の評価を行なうが、体操服やユニフォーム等、過酷な使用状況が想定される用途においては5時間処理では不十分であり、15時間処理後でも優れたスナッグ抑制効果を有することが求められている。
Furthermore, the following Patent Document 3 describes that, in a blended yarn of false twisted yarn and high shrinkage yarn, the high shrinkage yarn can suppress the bulky property by tightening the false twist yarn and suppress the snag. Has been.
However, the effect of suppressing snag by the method described in Patent Document 2 or Patent Document 3 is limited, and the snag evaluation method under the condition of relatively small load (in Patent Document 2, D-4 method of JIS-L1058, Patent Document 3 in the same D-1 method), although it is described that it has a certain effect, in the same D-3 method conditions that are assumed to be caught on chair scratches, metal burrs, nails, etc. in the actual wearing scene The snug suppression effect was not sufficient. In addition, the D-3 method usually evaluates after 5 hours of treatment, but in applications where harsh use conditions are assumed, such as gym clothes and uniforms, 5 hours of treatment is insufficient and even after 15 hours of treatment. It is calculated | required to have the outstanding snag suppression effect.

このように、現状では、JIS−L1058 D−3法で15時間処理後のスナッグ性が3級以上の十分な抗スナッグ性を有し、かつ通気性に優れる布帛は見当たらない。   Thus, under the present circumstances, there is no fabric having a sufficient anti-snagging property such that the snag property after the 15-hour treatment by the JIS-L1058 D-3 method is grade 3 or more and excellent in air permeability.

WO2008/001920号公報WO2008 / 001920 Publication 特許第4217517号公報Japanese Patent No. 4217517 特開2010−144288号公報JP 2010-144288 A

本発明が解決しようとする課題は、前記した従来技術の問題を解決し、インナー、スポーツウェア、水着等に適した、抗スナッグ糸、及びそれを用いた抗スナッグ性と通気性に優れる布帛を提供することである。   The problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and to provide an anti-snag yarn suitable for innerwear, sportswear, swimwear, and the like, and a fabric excellent in anti-snag and breathability using the same. Is to provide.

本発明者は、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討し、実験を重ねた結果、所定の単糸クリンプ数及び嵩高係数を有する抗スナッグ糸を使用することにより、抗スナッグ性と通気性に優れる布帛を提供することができることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。
すなわち、本発明は、以下の通りのものである。
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems and repeated experiments, the inventor uses an anti-snag yarn having a predetermined number of single yarn crimps and a bulkiness coefficient, so that the fabric has excellent anti-snag properties and air permeability. The present invention has been found to be able to be provided.
That is, the present invention is as follows.

[1]単糸クリンプ数が75個/2.54cm以上である捲縮糸を含み、かつ、嵩高係数が0.01〜0.06であることを特徴とする抗スナッグ糸。   [1] An anti-snag yarn comprising crimped yarns having a single yarn crimp number of 75 / 2.54 cm or more and having a bulkiness coefficient of 0.01 to 0.06.

[2]前記抗スナッグ糸を布帛表面側に70wt%以上使用し、JIS−L1058(D−3法)に準ずる15時間の試験によるスナッグ性は3級以上であり、かつ、該布帛が編地の場合、JIS−L1018 8.33.1による、布帛が織物の場合、JIS−L1096 8.27.1A法による通気性は80cc/cm/s以上である布帛。 [2] The anti-snag yarn is used at 70 wt% or more on the fabric surface side, the snag property by a 15-hour test according to JIS-L1058 (D-3 method) is grade 3 or more, and the fabric is knitted fabric In this case, when the fabric is a woven fabric according to JIS-L1018 8.33.1, the air permeability according to JIS-L1096 8.27.1A method is 80 cc / cm 2 / s or more.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸及びそれを用いた布帛を使用すれば、着用時に問題となるスナッグの発生が起こりにくく、かつ、通気性に優れ、清涼感のあるインナー、スポーツウェア、水着等のウェアの製造が可能となる。   If the anti-snag yarn of the present invention and the fabric using the same are used, it is difficult to generate a snag that is a problem when worn, and it has excellent breathability and a refreshing innerwear, sportswear, swimwear, etc. Manufacture is possible.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸を用いた布帛の組織図の一例である。It is an example of the organization chart of the fabric using the anti-snag yarn of the present invention. 本発明の抗スナッグ糸を用いた布帛の組織図の一例である。It is an example of the organization chart of the fabric using the anti-snag yarn of the present invention.

以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明の抗スナッグ糸は、単糸クリンプ数が75個/2.54cm以上である捲縮糸を含むことを特徴とする。単糸クリンプ数は、好ましくは80個/2.54cm以上、より好ましくは90個/2.54cm以上である。
単糸クリンプ数とは、抗スナッグ糸を構成しているフィラメント群の中からクリンプの大きいフィラメント(単糸)を抜き出し、所定の荷重をかけた時の1cm間の単糸側面から見た単糸のうねりの数(うねりを山・谷と表現した場合、山と谷の数)である。
単糸クリンプ数が75個/2.54cm未満であると、布帛表面に浮き出易くなり、引っ掛かる原因となってスナッグ性が悪化する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The anti-snag yarn of the present invention is characterized by including a crimped yarn having a single yarn crimp number of 75 / 2.54 cm or more. The number of single yarn crimps is preferably 80 pieces / 2.54 cm or more, more preferably 90 pieces / 2.54 cm or more.
The number of single yarn crimps refers to the single yarn viewed from the side of the single yarn between 1 cm when a large load of filament (single yarn) is extracted from the filament group constituting the anti-snag yarn and a predetermined load is applied. The number of swells (when swells are expressed as mountains and valleys, the number of mountains and valleys).
If the number of single yarn crimps is less than 75 / 2.54 cm, it will be easily raised on the surface of the fabric, and it will be caught and the snag property will deteriorate.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸は、嵩高係数が0.01〜0.06であることを特徴とする。嵩高係数は、好ましくは0.02〜0.05、より好ましくは0.03〜0.04である。嵩高係数が0.01未満であるということは、単糸間の空隙がほとんどなく密着している状態であり、フクラミや風合いに劣り、嵩高係数が0.06を超えると、単糸間の空隙が大きくなりすぎ、その隙間に引っ掛かることや、バルキー性が高くなりすぎ、布帛表面に凹凸を形成してしまうことから、スナッグが悪化する。   The anti-snag yarn of the present invention has a bulkiness coefficient of 0.01 to 0.06. The bulkiness coefficient is preferably 0.02 to 0.05, more preferably 0.03 to 0.04. A bulkiness factor of less than 0.01 means that there is almost no gap between the single yarns and is in intimate contact, which is inferior to fluff and texture, and when the bulkiness factor exceeds 0.06, the gap between the single yarns. Becomes too large and is caught in the gap, and the bulky property becomes too high, resulting in the formation of irregularities on the fabric surface.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸に含まれる捲縮糸は、捲縮が付与されていればフィラメント糸等、特に制限されるものではない。
具体的には、レーヨン、アセテート繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊に捲縮が付与されているものが好ましく、捲縮付与させ易いポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維は特に好ましい。
The crimped yarn included in the anti-snugg yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the crimp is imparted, such as a filament yarn.
Specifically, those in which crimps are imparted to synthetic fibers such as rayon, acetate fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, and vinyl chloride fibers are preferable. Easy polyamide fibers and polyester fibers are particularly preferable.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸に使用する捲縮糸の捲縮性に特に制限はないが、捲縮伸長率として20%以上が好ましく、30%以上がより好ましい。ここでの捲縮伸長率は下記方法で測定する。
捲縮糸を、糸張力0.088cN/dtexで枠周1mの検尺機にて10周巻取り、小綛にし、小綛下端に1.77×10-3cN/dtexの荷重をかけたまま乾燥機にて90℃×15分の乾熱処理を行う。処理終了後、0.26×10-3cN/dtexの荷重を取り外し、20℃、60%RH環境下にて24時間放置する。次いで、小綛の中から、捲縮糸1本を30cm採取し、上端を固定し、下端に1.77×10-3cN/dtexの荷重をかけ、30秒後の長さ(A)を測定する。次いで、1.77×10-3cN/dtexの荷重を取り外し、0.088cN/dtexの荷重をかけ、30秒後の長さ(B)を測定し、下記式(1)により捲縮伸長率を求める。
捲縮伸長率(%)=((B−A)/A)×100 (1)
Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular in the crimp property of the crimped yarn used for the anti-snag yarn of this invention, 20% or more is preferable as a crimp extension, and 30% or more is more preferable. The crimp elongation rate here is measured by the following method.
The crimped yarn was wound 10 turns with a measuring machine having a frame circumference of 1 m with a thread tension of 0.088 cN / dtex, made into a small fold, and a load of 1.77 × 10 −3 cN / dtex was applied to the lower end of the fold. A dry heat treatment is performed at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes using a dryer. After the treatment is completed, the load of 0.26 × 10 −3 cN / dtex is removed, and the mixture is left for 24 hours in an environment of 20 ° C. and 60% RH. Next, 30 cm of a crimped yarn is sampled from the small wrinkle, the upper end is fixed, a load of 1.77 × 10 −3 cN / dtex is applied to the lower end, and the length (A) after 30 seconds is set. taking measurement. Next, the load of 1.77 × 10 −3 cN / dtex was removed, the load of 0.088 cN / dtex was applied, the length (B) after 30 seconds was measured, and the crimp elongation rate was obtained by the following formula (1) Ask for.
Crimp elongation (%) = ((B−A) / A) × 100 (1)

本発明の抗スナッグ糸は、少なくとも所定の単糸クリンプ数を持つ捲縮糸を含んでいればよく、抗スナッグ糸としてこの捲縮糸だけで構成していてもよいし、又はこの捲縮糸と他の糸で構成されていてもよい。その際に構成される他の糸は、フィラメント糸、紡績糸等どのような糸であってもよい。具体的には、フィラメント糸としては、レーヨン、アセテート繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましく、これらフィラメント糸の形態は未捲縮糸、捲縮糸のいずれであってもよい。捲縮糸としては、コンジュゲート糸や仮撚加工等により捲縮加工された糸等いずれであってもよい。
紡績糸としては、木綿、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維、レーヨン、アセテート、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましく、これらは単独又は混紡されたもの等のいずれであってもよい。
The anti-snag yarn of the present invention only needs to include a crimped yarn having at least a predetermined single yarn crimp number, and may be composed of only this crimped yarn as an anti-snag yarn, or the crimped yarn. And other yarns. The other yarns configured at that time may be any yarns such as filament yarns and spun yarns. Specifically, the filament yarn is preferably composed of synthetic fibers such as rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, etc. May be either an uncrimped yarn or a crimped yarn. The crimped yarn may be a conjugate yarn, a yarn crimped by false twisting, or the like.
The spun yarn is preferably made of synthetic fibers such as natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, rayon, acetate, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, etc. May be either single or blended.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸の繊度や単糸数についても特に限定されるものではなく、用途や、使用する編機のゲージに好適な繊度や単糸数のものを選定すればよいが、繊度としては、15detx〜200dtexが使い易いため、好ましく、より好ましくは30detx〜180detxである。また、単糸数としては、10〜200が好ましく、20〜150がより好ましく、30〜100がさらに好ましい。   The fineness and the number of single yarns of the anti-snag yarn of the present invention are not particularly limited, and it is only necessary to select a fineness and the number of single yarns suitable for the use and the gauge of the knitting machine to be used. 15 dtex to 200 dtex is preferable because it is easy to use, and more preferably 30 dtex to 180 dtex. The number of single yarns is preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 20 to 150, and still more preferably 30 to 100.

本開発の抗スナッグ糸を得るための加工方法としては、捲縮糸を仮撚加工することが最も効果的である。捲縮糸を仮撚加工することで、元々付与されている捲縮にさらに仮撚による捲縮が付与され、所定の単糸クリンプ数を有する捲縮の細かい糸を得ることができる。
本開発の抗スナッグ糸を得るための仮撚条件は、一般的に用いられる仮撚数、仮撚温度、仮撚張力を設定すればよいが、仮撚数は、下記式(2)で求められる設定仮撚数の85%〜95%に設定することが好ましく、87%〜90%に設定することがより好ましい。
設定仮撚数(T/M)=34300/√繊度 (2)
As a processing method for obtaining the developed anti-snugg yarn, false crimping of crimped yarn is the most effective. By false twisting the crimped yarn, crimp by false twist is further imparted to the originally imparted crimp, and a finely crimped yarn having a predetermined number of single yarn crimps can be obtained.
The false twist conditions for obtaining the anti-snugg yarn of this development may be set to the false twist number, false twist temperature and false twist tension that are generally used. The false twist number is obtained by the following formula (2). The set false twist number is preferably set to 85% to 95%, and more preferably set to 87% to 90%.
Set false twist number (T / M) = 34300 / √Fineness (2)

この設定仮撚数は、ピン仮撚機での設定数値であり、他の仮撚機であるニップベルトタイプ仮撚機やディスクフリクション仮撚機では、実際に弛撚体前の走行糸を採取し確認する。仮撚数を前記した所定の範囲内に設定するには、例えば、ニップベルトタイプ仮撚機ではベルト角を95〜120度にし、ディスクフリクション仮撚機ではディスク枚数を4〜8枚とすればよい。   This set false twist is the value set in the pin false twister, and in other nip belt type nip belt type false twister and disk friction false twister, the running yarn is actually collected before the loosened body. Then confirm. In order to set the number of false twists within the predetermined range, for example, the belt angle is 95 to 120 degrees in a nip belt type false twist machine, and the number of disks is 4 to 8 in a disk friction false twist machine. Good.

仮撚温度は100℃〜230℃が好ましく、150℃〜230℃がより好ましく、190〜230℃がさらに好ましい。
仮撚張力は0.09cN/dtex〜0.35cN/dtexの範囲で調整するのが好ましい。
The false twisting temperature is preferably 100 ° C to 230 ° C, more preferably 150 ° C to 230 ° C, and further preferably 190 ° C to 230 ° C.
The false twist tension is preferably adjusted in the range of 0.09 cN / dtex to 0.35 cN / dtex.

仮撚方向を使用する捲縮糸のトルク方向と同方向にすることで、使用する捲縮糸以上の捲縮付与が可能となる。
仮撚のタイプとしては、高捲縮・高バルキーが得られる1ヒーター加工、低バルキー・低トルクが得られる2ヒーター加工のいずれのタイプでもよいが、バルキー性を抑え、抗スナッグ性を得るためには2ヒーター加工が好ましい。2ヒーター加工時の第2ヒーターゾーンの条件は任意に設定可能であるが、第2ヒーター温度は150〜230℃、フィード率は3%〜15%が好ましい。
By setting the false twisting direction to the same direction as the torque direction of the crimped yarn that uses the false twisted direction, it is possible to impart crimps that are higher than the crimped yarn that is used.
The false twist type can be either 1 heater processing that provides high crimp and high bulkiness, or 2 heater processing that provides low bulky and low torque, but to suppress bulkiness and obtain anti-snuggling properties. Two heater processing is preferable. Although the conditions of the 2nd heater zone at the time of 2 heater processing can be set arbitrarily, the 2nd heater temperature is 150-230 ° C, and the feed rate is 3%-15%.

本開発の抗スナッグ糸に、織編工程性を向上させる目的で交絡を付与してもよい。付与する交絡数は特に制限されるものではないが、30個/m〜150個/mが好ましく、80個/m〜140個/mがより好ましい。使用する交絡用ノズルの種類や条件においても特に制限はないが、エア圧力条件は0.1MPa〜0.5MPaが好ましい。   The anti-snugg yarn of this development may be entangled for the purpose of improving the knitting processability. The number of confounding to be applied is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30 pieces / m to 150 pieces / m, and more preferably 80 pieces / m to 140 pieces / m. The type and conditions of the entanglement nozzle to be used are not particularly limited, but the air pressure condition is preferably 0.1 MPa to 0.5 MPa.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸を布帛に使用する場合、本発明の抗スナッグ糸を布帛表面に70wt%以上使用することが好ましく、より好ましくは80wt%以上、さらに好ましくは90wt%以上である。本発明の抗スナッグ糸が布帛表面に70wt%未満しか使用されていないと、スナッグが悪化する。
本発明の抗スナッグ糸を使用した布帛のスナッグ性は、JIS−L1058(D−3法)に準ずる15時間の試験で3級以上であることが好ましく、より好ましくは4級以上である。JIS−L1058(D−3法)に準ずる15時間の試験で3級を下回ると、実着用時のスナッグによる外観悪化が顕著になることがある。
When the anti-snag yarn of the present invention is used for a fabric, the anti-snag yarn of the present invention is preferably used at 70 wt% or more on the fabric surface, more preferably 80 wt% or more, and further preferably 90 wt% or more. If the anti-snag yarn of the present invention is used in an amount of less than 70 wt% on the fabric surface, the snag will be deteriorated.
The snag property of the fabric using the anti-snag yarn of the present invention is preferably grade 3 or higher, more preferably grade 4 or higher in a 15-hour test according to JIS-L1058 (D-3 method). If it falls below the third grade in a 15-hour test according to JIS-L1058 (D-3 method), the appearance deterioration due to the snag at the time of actual wearing may become remarkable.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸を使用した布帛の通気性は、以下に説明する試験法において、80cc/cm/s以上であることが好ましく、より好ましくは90cc/cm/s以上、さらに好ましくは100cc/cm/s以上である。通気性が80cc/cm/sを下回ると、運動時の衣服内の蒸れ感が強いものとなってしまい、着心地が悪いものとなってしまう。 The air permeability of the fabric using the anti-snag yarn of the present invention is preferably 80 cc / cm 2 / s or more, more preferably 90 cc / cm 2 / s or more, and further preferably, in the test method described below. 100 cc / cm 2 / s or more. When the air permeability is less than 80 cc / cm 2 / s, the feeling of stuffiness in the clothes during exercise becomes strong and the comfort becomes poor.

本発明における布帛とは、織物又は編物のことをいう。織物組織としては、平織、ツイル織、サテン織、経二重織、緯二重織、ドビー織等の組織を使用できるが、これに限定されるものではない。織密度としては、経密度60〜350本/インチ、緯密度60〜150本/インチが好ましい。編物組織としては、横編、丸編、経編等のどのような組織でもよい。編みゲージは18〜40ゲージが好ましい。   The fabric in the present invention refers to a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. As the woven fabric structure, a plain woven cloth, a twill woven cloth, a satin woven cloth, a warp double woven cloth, a weft double woven cloth, a dobby woven cloth or the like can be used, but it is not limited thereto. The weaving density is preferably a warp density of 60 to 350 / inch and a weft density of 60 to 150 / inch. The knitted fabric structure may be any structure such as a flat knitting, a circular knitting, and a warp knitting. The knitting gauge is preferably 18 to 40 gauge.

本発明の布帛には、本発明の抗スナッグ糸他の繊維を交織や交編してもよい。他の繊維としては、フィラメント糸や紡績糸等どのような糸でもよい。具体的には、フィラメント糸としては、レーヨン、アセテート繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましく、これらフィラメント糸の形態は未捲縮糸、捲縮糸のいずれであってもよい。捲縮糸としては、コンジュゲート糸や仮撚加工等により捲縮加工された糸等いずれであってもよい。   The fabric of the present invention may be woven or knitted with the anti-snugg yarn of the present invention or other fibers. As other fibers, any yarn such as filament yarn or spun yarn may be used. Specifically, the filament yarn is preferably composed of synthetic fibers such as rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, etc. May be either an uncrimped yarn or a crimped yarn. The crimped yarn may be a conjugate yarn, a yarn crimped by false twisting, or the like.

紡績糸としては、木綿、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維、レーヨン、アセテート、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の化合繊からなるものが好ましく、これらは単独又は混紡されたもの等、いずれであってもよい。
また、本発明の布帛には、スパンデックスやスパンデックスと他の繊維からなるカバリング糸を使用してもよい。
The spun yarn is preferably made of synthetic fibers such as natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, rayon, acetate, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, etc. May be either single or blended.
Moreover, you may use the covering yarn which consists of spandex or a spandex, and another fiber for the fabric of this invention.

本発明の抗スナッグ糸を使用した布帛は、要求される用途に準じて目付を調整することが好ましく、より好ましくは目付を50〜500g/mの範囲で調整するとよい。 The fabric using the anti-snag yarn of the present invention preferably has a basis weight adjusted according to the required application, and more preferably the basis weight is adjusted in the range of 50 to 500 g / m 2 .

本発明の抗スナッグ糸を含む布帛の染色加工方法は、糸状態及び布帛状態とも通常の染色仕上げ工程が使用でき、使用する染色機も抗スナッグ糸状態での加工はチーズ染色機の使用、布帛状態での加工は液流染色機、ウインス染色機等、任意な染色機の使用ができる。また、布帛状態での加工において、仕上げセットは布帛乾燥時に皺になったり、突っ張ったりしないように仕上げればよい。また、仕上げ剤として吸水剤の付与を行うと、より吸水性が向上し、好ましい。さらに、染色段階での付帯加工として、防汚加工、抗菌加工、消臭加工、防臭加工、吸汗加工、吸湿加工、紫外線吸収加工、減量加工など、さらに後加工としてカレンダー加工、エンボス加工、シワ加工、起毛加工、オパール加工、シリコン系柔軟剤等を使用した柔軟加工など、最終的な要求特性に応じて適宜付与することができる。   The method for dyeing and processing a fabric containing anti-snag yarn of the present invention can use a normal dyeing finishing process in both the yarn state and the fabric state, and the dyeing machine to be used is processed using a cheese dyeing machine in the anti-snugg yarn state. For processing in a state, any dyeing machine such as a liquid dyeing machine or a wins dyeing machine can be used. Further, in the processing in the fabric state, the finishing set may be finished so as not to become wrinkles or stretch when the fabric is dried. Further, it is preferable to apply a water absorbing agent as a finishing agent because water absorption is further improved. Furthermore, as ancillary processing at the dyeing stage, antifouling processing, antibacterial processing, deodorization processing, deodorization processing, sweat absorption processing, moisture absorption processing, ultraviolet ray absorption processing, weight loss processing, and post processing such as calendar processing, embossing processing, wrinkle processing It can be appropriately applied according to the final required characteristics such as brushed processing, opal processing, and soft processing using a silicon softener.

以下、本発明を実施例を用いて具体的に説明する。
実施例に記載される各数値は次の方法で測定した。
(1)単糸クリンプ数
布帛より本開発の抗スナッグ糸を2cm抜き出し、さらにこの抗スナッグ糸から単糸を1本抜き取る。この2cmの単糸に1.77×10−3cN/dtexの荷重をかけた状態の糸形態を(株)キーエンス社製デジタルマイクロスコープVHX−500にて観察し、1cm間のうねりの数を測定し、1inch間に換算する。N=10本測定し、平均値を算出する。
布帛から抜き出した抗スナッグ糸に、布帛の形態に由来するクリンプ(例えば、編地であれば編目によるクリンプ)がある場合、1.77×10−2cN/dtexの荷重をかけた状態の糸形態をマイクロスコープにて観察し、1cm間のうねりの数を測定し、1inch間に換算する。
また、布帛より抜き出した抗スナッグ糸に交絡が有りるために、2cmの単糸を抜き出せない場合、抗スナッグ糸に荷重をかけて固定し、単糸1本を残して他の単糸を取り除いて1cm間のうねりの数を測定する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples.
Each numerical value described in the examples was measured by the following method.
(1) Number of single yarn crimps 2 cm of the newly developed anti-snag yarn is extracted from the fabric, and one single yarn is further extracted from the anti-snugg yarn. The yarn form in which a load of 1.77 × 10 −3 cN / dtex was applied to this 2 cm single yarn was observed with a digital microscope VHX-500 manufactured by Keyence Corporation, and the number of undulations between 1 cm was determined. Measure and convert between 1 inch. N = 10 are measured and the average value is calculated.
When the anti-snugg yarn extracted from the fabric has a crimp derived from the form of the fabric (for example, if the knitted fabric is crimped by a stitch), the yarn is subjected to a load of 1.77 × 10 −2 cN / dtex. The morphology is observed with a microscope, the number of undulations between 1 cm is measured, and converted into 1 inch.
If the 2cm single yarn cannot be extracted because the anti-snag yarn extracted from the fabric is entangled, the anti-snag yarn is fixed with a load, leaving one single yarn and removing the other single yarn. And measure the number of swells between 1 cm.

(2)嵩高係数
布帛より抜き出した抗スナッグ糸に、1.77×10−3cN/dtexの荷重をかけ、その状態での糸形態を(株)キーエンス社製デジタルマイクロスコープVHX−500にて観察し、抗スナッグ糸の太さ(mm)を測定する。測定は糸長方向に1cm毎に測定し、20か所測定する。測定した数値の最大値から順番に大きい数値を3点及び最小値から順番に小さい数値を3点を除外した14か所の平均値を用いて下記(3)式にて算出する。
嵩高係数=複合糸の太さの平均値(mm)/√繊度(dtex) (3)
また、布帛より抜き出した抗スナッグ糸に交絡が有り、糸の太さが細くなっている部分がある場合、その部分を除いて太さを測定する。
(2) Bulkiness coefficient A load of 1.77 × 10 −3 cN / dtex was applied to the anti-snag yarn extracted from the fabric, and the yarn form in this state was changed with a digital microscope VHX-500 manufactured by Keyence Corporation. Observe and measure the thickness (mm) of the anti-snag yarn. The measurement is made every 1 cm in the yarn length direction and measured at 20 points. The following numerical formula (3) is used, using an average value of 14 points excluding 3 points, a numerical value sequentially increasing from the maximum of the measured numerical values, and a numerical value sequentially decreasing from the minimum value.
Bulkiness coefficient = average thickness of composite yarn (mm) / √fineness (dtex) (3)
In addition, when the anti-snugg yarn extracted from the fabric is entangled and there is a portion where the thickness of the yarn is thin, the thickness is measured except for the portion.

(3)交絡数
布帛より抜き出した抗スナッグ糸を約50cmの長さでサンプリングし、下端に0.088cN/dtexの荷重を掛け、垂直に吊り下げる。この状態で30cm間にマーキングする。マーキングした上部に抗スナッグ糸内に虫ピンを差し入れ、ゆっくりと下へ降ろしていく。その過程で交絡により針が止まる箇所の個数を測定し、1mあたりに換算した値を交絡数として求める。
(3) Number of entanglements The anti-snag yarn extracted from the fabric is sampled at a length of about 50 cm, a load of 0.088 cN / dtex is applied to the lower end, and it is suspended vertically. In this state, marking is performed between 30 cm. Insert the insect pin into the anti-snag thread on the marked top and slowly lower it down. In that process, the number of points where the needle stops due to confounding is measured, and a value converted per 1 m is obtained as the number of confounding.

(4)通気性
布帛が編地の場合はJIS−L1018 8.33.1に、布帛が織物の場合はJIS−L1096 8.27.1Aに記載のフラジール形試験機を用いた評価方法により通気性を測定する。
(4) Breathability When the fabric is a knitted fabric, it is ventilated by the evaluation method using the fragile type tester described in JIS-L1018 8.33.1 and when the fabric is a woven fabric, JIS-L1096 8.27.1A. Measure sex.

(5)スナッグ性
スナッグ性は、JIS−L1058に記載のICI型ピリング試験機を用いた金のこ法(D−3法)で、15時間操作したあとの試料外観を評価したものである。標準写真との比較により1級(標準写真1号(最も悪い)程度)から5級(標準写真5号(最も良い)程度)の間で等級を決定する。なお、例えば標準写真の1号と2号の中間程度である場合は、1−2級と判定する(1級より優れ、2級より劣る)。2−3級、3−4級、4−5級についても同様である。3級以上を合格とする。
(5) Snag property Snag property is an evaluation of the appearance of a sample after 15 hours of operation by the gold saw method (D-3 method) using an ICI type pilling tester described in JIS-L1058. A grade is determined between grade 1 (standard photo No. 1 (worst) grade) to grade 5 (standard photo No. 5 (best grade)) by comparison with the standard photo. In addition, for example, when it is about the middle of No. 1 and No. 2 of the standard photograph, it is determined to be grade 1-2 (better than grade 1 and inferior to grade 2). The same applies to the classes 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5. Grade 3 or higher is accepted.

(6)着用快適性
実施例による布帛で運動シャツを縫製し、これを着用し発汗するまで運動して、着用快適性を以下の評価基準に基づき官能評価した。
○ : 発汗しても蒸れ感をほとんど感じず、極めて快適
△ : 発汗時、僅かに蒸れ感を感じるが、快適である
× : 発汗時、蒸れ感も甚だしく不快である
上記△以上であれば、着用快適性として問題はない。
(6) Wearing comfort An exercise shirt was sewed with the fabric according to the example, and it was worn and sweated until exercise, and the wearing comfort was subjected to sensory evaluation based on the following evaluation criteria.
○: Very little stuffy feeling even when sweating, very comfortable △: Feeling slightly stuffy when sweating, but comfortable x: When feeling sweating, the feeling of stuffiness is extremely uncomfortable. There is no problem with wearing comfort.

(7)目付け
布帛から10cm×10cmの大きさの試料を3枚採取し、各々の重量を測定した平均値から、面積1m当たりの重量を算出し、目付けの測定値とする。
(7) Weight per unit area Three samples having a size of 10 cm × 10 cm are collected from the fabric, and the weight per 1 m 2 of area is calculated from the average value of the respective weights to obtain the measured value per unit area.

(8)厚み
Peacock社製厚み測定器を用い、φ3.0cmの測定部に5gの荷重をかけて布帛に接触させ、厚みを測定する。ランダムに3箇所測定し、平均値を求める。
(8) Thickness Using a thickness measuring device manufactured by Peacock, a load of 5 g is applied to a measuring portion of φ3.0 cm to contact the fabric, and the thickness is measured. Three points are measured at random and the average value is obtained.

[実施例1]
ポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:39.2%)とポリエステル84T24高強力未捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率0%)を引き揃えて、TMTマシナリー社製マッハ33Hニップベルトタイプ仮撚機にて、加工速度350m/分、延伸倍率1.03倍、仮撚温度210℃、ベルト角120度、仮撚方向Z、加撚張力55cN、解撚張力51cNで仮撚後、引き続いて第2ヒーターゾーンにて温度170℃、オーバーフィード率6.0%にて弛緩熱処理をしながら、阿波スピンドル社製インターレースノズルにてエア圧0.4MPaで混繊交絡させ、2ヒーター加工タイプの167T60抗スナッグ糸を得た。
得られた抗スナッグ糸を福原精機社製22ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図1に示す編み組織の給糸口2、3、7、8に配し、給糸口1、6にはポリエステル171T48−S仮撚糸を2本、給糸口4、9にはポリエステル/綿混紡糸45番、給糸口5、10にはポリエステル84T24−Z仮撚糸を配し、ブリスター柄のダブル丸編地を作製した。
この生機を液流染色機にて80℃×20分で精練した後、水洗、次いで、ピンテンターにて幅出し率20%、長さ出し率0%で180℃×90秒のプレセットを行った。
その後、液流染色機にて、高松油脂社製吸水加工剤SR−1000を3%owf併用し、130℃でポリエステル分散染色し、水洗を行った後に、編地のしわが取れる程度に伸長し、150℃×90秒のファイナルセットを行い、布帛を得た。
[Example 1]
Polyester 84T36-Z false-twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 39.2%) and polyester 84T24 high-strength uncrimped yarn (crimp elongation 0%) are aligned to make a Mach 33H nip belt manufactured by TMT Machinery. In a type false twisting machine, after false twisting at a processing speed of 350 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.03 times, a false twisting temperature of 210 ° C., a belt angle of 120 °, a false twisting direction Z, a twisting tension of 55 cN, and an untwisting tension of 51 cN. Subsequently, while performing relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of 170 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 6.0% in the second heater zone, the mixture is entangled with an interlace nozzle manufactured by Awa Spindle Co., Ltd. at an air pressure of 0.4 MPa. No. 167T60 anti-snag yarn was obtained.
The obtained anti-snag yarn was placed on the yarn feeders 2, 3, 7, and 8 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1 using a 22 gauge double circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., and polyester yarn 171T48- Two S false twisted yarns, polyester / cotton blended yarn No. 45 at yarn feeders 4 and 9, polyester 84T24-Z false twisted yarn at yarn feeders 5 and 10, and a blister-pattern double circular knitted fabric were produced.
This raw machine was scoured with a liquid dyeing machine at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes, washed with water, and then preset with a pin tenter at 180 ° C. for 90 seconds with a width setting ratio of 20% and a length setting ratio of 0%. .
Then, using a liquid dyeing machine, 3% owf is combined with a water-absorbing agent SR-1000 manufactured by Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd. After polyester dispersion dyeing at 130 ° C. and washing with water, it stretches to such an extent that wrinkles of the knitted fabric can be removed. A final set of 150 ° C. × 90 seconds was performed to obtain a fabric.

得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は92.2個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.034、交絡数は130個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は79.7%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース33個/2.54cm、ウェルは34個/2.54cm、目付けは244g/m、厚みは1.28mm、通気性は150cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。 The anti-snag yarn taken out from the obtained fabric had a single yarn crimp number of 92.2 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness coefficient of 0.034, and an entanglement number of 130 pieces / m. The ratio used for this was 79.7%. The density of the obtained fabric was 33 courses / 2.54 cm, 34 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight was 244 g / m 2 , the thickness was 1.28 mm, the air permeability was 150 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property was It was 4th grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[実施例2]
ポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:39.2%)とポリエステル84T36未捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率0%)を使用した以外は実施例1と同様の仮撚条件、編成方法、加工方法で行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は94.8個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.036、交絡数は136個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は79.7%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース35個/2.54cm、ウェルは34個/2.54cm、目付けは254g/m、厚みは1.34mm、通気性は128cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Example 2]
False twist conditions similar to those of Example 1 except that polyester 84T36-Z false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 39.2%) and polyester 84T36 uncrimped yarn (crimp elongation 0%) were used. A fabric was obtained by a knitting method and a processing method. The anti-snag yarn taken out from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 94.8 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness factor of 0.036, and an entanglement number of 136 pieces / m. The ratio used for this was 79.7%. The density of the obtained fabric is 35 courses / 2.54 cm, 34 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 254 g / m 2 , the thickness is 1.34 mm, the air permeability is 128 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snug property is It was 4th grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[実施例3]
ポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:39.2%)を2本引き揃えて、実施例1と同様の仮撚加工にて、2ヒーター加工タイプの167T72抗スナッグ糸を得た。得られた抗スナッグ糸をマイヤー社製22ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図2に示す編み組織の給糸口2と3に配し、給糸口1にはポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚糸、給糸口4にはポリエステル171T48−S仮撚糸を配し、表面鹿の子調のダブル丸編地を作成した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は96.3個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.039、交絡数は118個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース32個/2.54cm、ウェルは28個/2.54cm、目付けは221g/m、厚みは1.34mm、通気性は102cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は3−4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Example 3]
A two-heater-processed type 167T72 anti-snugged yarn is obtained by pulling two polyester 84T36-Z false twisted crimped yarns (crimp elongation: 39.2%) and false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1. It was. The obtained anti-snag yarn was placed on the yarn feeders 2 and 3 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 2 by a Meyer 22 gauge double circular knitting machine. The yarn feeder 1 had polyester 84T36-Z false twisted yarn, yarn feeder 4 Was provided with a polyester 171T48-S false twisted yarn to create a double circular knitted fabric with a surface sword-like tone. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The anti-snag yarn extracted from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 96.3 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness factor of 0.039, and an entanglement number of 118 pieces / m. The ratio used for 100.0%. The resulting fabric has a density of 32 courses / 2.54 cm, 28 wells / 2.54 cm, a basis weight of 221 g / m 2 , a thickness of 1.34 mm, a breathability of 102 cc / cm 2 / s, and a snug property of It was grade 3-4. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[実施例4]
ポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:39.2%)をTMTマシナリー社製マッハ33Hニップベルトタイプ仮撚機にて、加工速度350m/分、延伸倍率1.03倍、仮撚温度210℃、ベルト角112.5度、仮撚方向Z、加撚張力26cN、解撚張力25cNで仮撚後、引き続いて第2ヒーターゾーンにて温度170℃、オーバーフィード率6.0%にて弛緩熱処理をしながら、阿波スピンドル社製インターレースノズルにてエア圧0.4MPaで混繊交絡させ、2ヒーター加工タイプの84T36抗スナッグ糸を得た。得られた抗スナッグ糸を福原精機社製28ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図1に示す編み組織の給糸口2、3、7、8に配し、給糸口1、6にはポリエステル84T36−S仮撚糸を2本、給糸口4、9にはポリエステル/綿混紡糸90番、給糸口5、10にはポリエステル56T24−Z仮撚糸を配し、ブリスター柄のダブル丸編地を作製した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は101.3個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.039、交絡数は115個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は85.5%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース42個/2.54cm、ウェルは46個/2.54cm、目付けは151g/m、厚みは0.81mm、通気性は143cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Example 4]
Polyester 84T36-Z false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 39.2%) was processed with a Mach 33H nip belt type false twisting machine manufactured by TMT Machinery, with a processing speed of 350 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.03 times, Twist temperature 210 ° C, belt angle 112.5 degrees, false twist direction Z, twisting tension 26cN, untwisting tension 25cN and false twisting, then in the second heater zone temperature 170 ° C, overfeed rate 6.0% While being subjected to relaxation heat treatment, an interlace nozzle manufactured by Awa Spindle Co., Ltd. was used to mix and interlace at an air pressure of 0.4 MPa to obtain a 2-heater processed type 84T36 anti-snag yarn. The obtained anti-snag yarn was placed in a 28-gauge double circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd. at the yarn feeders 2, 3, 7, and 8 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. Two S false twisted yarns, polyester / cotton blended yarn No. 90 at yarn feeders 4 and 9, and polyester 56T24-Z false twisted yarn at yarn feeders 5 and 10 were prepared to produce a blister-pattern double circular knitted fabric. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The anti-snag yarn extracted from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 101.3 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness coefficient of 0.039, and an entanglement number of 115 pieces / m. The ratio used for this was 85.5%. The density of the obtained fabric is 42 courses / 2.54 cm, 46 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 151 g / m 2 , the thickness is 0.81 mm, the air permeability is 143 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property is It was 4th grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[実施例5]
ポリエステル84T72−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:24.3%)を実施例4と同様の仮撚加工を行い、2ヒーター加工タイプの84T72抗スナッグ糸を得た。得られた抗スナッグ糸を実施例4と同様の方法でブリスター柄のダブル丸編地を作製した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は78.2個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.031、交絡数は124個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は85.5%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース40個/2.54cm、ウェルは46個/2.54cm、目付けは139g/m、厚みは0.70mm、通気性は159cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は3−4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Example 5]
A polyester 84T72-Z false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 24.3%) was false twisted in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain a 2-heater processed type 84T72 anti-snugged yarn. A blister-pattern double circular knitted fabric was produced from the obtained anti-snag yarn in the same manner as in Example 4. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The anti-snag yarn taken out from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 78.2 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness factor of 0.031, and an entanglement number of 124 pieces / m. The ratio used for this was 85.5%. The density of the obtained fabric is 40 courses / 2.54 cm, 46 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 139 g / m 2 , the thickness is 0.70 mm, the air permeability is 159 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property is It was grade 3-4. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[実施例6]
ポリエステル56T36−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:75.4%)とポリエステル56T24未捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率0%)を引き揃えて、TMTマシナリー社製マッハ33Hニップベルトタイプ仮撚機にて、加工速度350m/分、延伸倍率1.03倍、仮撚温度210℃、ベルト角115度、仮撚方向Z、加撚張力37cN、解撚張力34cNで仮撚後、引き続いて第2ヒーターゾーンにて温度170℃、オーバーフィード率6.0%にて弛緩熱処理をしながら、阿波スピンドル社製インターレースノズルにてエア圧0.4MPaで混繊交絡させ、2ヒーター加工タイプの112T60抗スナッグ糸を得た。得られた抗スナッグ糸を福原精機社製28ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図1に示す編み組織の給糸口2、3、7、8に配し、給糸口1、6にはポリエステル171T48−S仮撚糸を1本、給糸口4、9にはポリエステル/綿混紡糸90番、給糸口5、10にはポリエステル84T24−Z仮撚糸を配し、ブリスター柄のダブル丸編地を作製した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った抗スナッグ糸の単糸クリンプ数は119.9個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.036、交絡数は136個/mであり、この抗スナッグ糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は79.7%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース40個/2.54cm、ウェルは45個/2.54cm、目付けは183g/m、厚みは0.92mm、通気性は116cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Example 6]
Polyester 56T36-Z false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 75.4%) and polyester 56T24 uncrimped yarn (crimp elongation 0%) are aligned to make a Mach 33H nip belt type temporary made by TMT Machinery In a twisting machine, after a false twist at a processing speed of 350 m / min, a draw ratio of 1.03 times, a false twist temperature of 210 ° C., a belt angle of 115 degrees, a false twist direction Z, a twisting tension of 37 cN, and an untwisting tension of 34 cN, 112T60 is a two-heater processed type that is mixed and entangled at an air pressure of 0.4 MPa with an interlace nozzle manufactured by Awa Spindle Co., Ltd. while performing a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of 170 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 6.0% in the second heater zone. An anti-snag yarn was obtained. The obtained anti-snag yarn was placed in a 28 gauge double circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd. at the yarn feeders 2, 3, 7, and 8 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 1. Polyester 171T48- One S false twisted yarn, polyester / cotton blended yarn No. 90 at yarn feeders 4 and 9, polyester 84T24-Z false twisted yarn at yarn feeders 5 and 10, and a blister-pattern double circular knitted fabric were produced. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The anti-snag yarn extracted from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 119.9 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness coefficient of 0.036, and an entanglement number of 136 pieces / m. The ratio used for this was 79.7%. The density of the obtained fabric is 40 courses / 2.54 cm, 45 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 183 g / m 2 , the thickness is 0.92 mm, the air permeability is 116 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snug property is It was 4th grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例1]
ポリエステル167T48−Z仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:16.5%)を追加の仮撚加工をせずに、図1に示す編み組織の給糸口2、3、7、8に配し、その他の給糸口には実施例1と同様の糸を配し、実施例1と同様の加工を行い布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った仮撚捲縮糸の単糸クリンプ数は70.9個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.069、交絡数は0個/mであり、この仮撚捲縮糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は79.7%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース41個/2.54cm、ウェルは31個/2.54cm、目付けは255g/m、厚みは1.12mm、通気性は167cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は2級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 1]
Polyester 167T48-Z false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 16.5%) is arranged in the yarn feeders 2, 3, 7, 8 of the knitted structure shown in FIG. 1 without additional false twisting. The other yarn feeders were provided with the same yarn as in Example 1 and processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The false twisted crimped yarn extracted from the obtained fabric has a single yarn crimp number of 70.9 pieces / 2.54 cm, a bulkiness coefficient of 0.069, and an interlace number of 0 pieces / m. Was 79.7% of the fabric surface. The density of the obtained fabric was 41 courses / 2.54 cm, 31 wells / 31, 2.54 cm, the basis weight was 255 g / m 2 , the thickness was 1.12 mm, the air permeability was 167 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property was It was second grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例2]
ポリエステル84T36未捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率0%)を2本引き揃えて、実施例1と同様の加工にて、1ヒーター加工タイプの167T72仮撚捲縮糸を得た。得られた仮撚捲縮糸をマイヤー社製22ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図2に示す編み組織の給糸口2、3、に配し、給糸口1にはポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚糸、給糸口4にはポリエステル171T48−S仮撚糸を配し、表面鹿の子調のダブル丸編地を作製した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った仮撚捲縮糸の単糸クリンプ数は74.4個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.078、交絡数は121個/mであり、この仮撚捲縮糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース57個/2.54cm、ウェルは30個/2.54cm、目付けは227g/m、厚みは1.24mm、通気性は126cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は2級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 2]
Two polyester 84T36 uncrimped yarns (crimp elongation 0%) were drawn together, and a 1-heater processed type 167T72 false twisted crimped yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained false twisted crimped yarn was placed on the yarn feeders 2 and 3 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 2 on a Mayer 22 gauge double circular knitting machine. The yarn feeder 1 was made of polyester 84T36-Z false twisted yarn, Polyester 171T48-S false twisted yarn was arranged at the yarn feeder 4 to prepare a double circular knitted fabric with a surface sword-like tone. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The number of single twist crimps of the false twisted crimped yarn extracted from the obtained fabric is 74.4 pieces / 2.54 cm, the bulkiness factor is 0.078, and the number of entanglement is 121 pieces / m. 100.0% was used on the surface of the fabric. The density of the obtained fabric is 57 courses / 2.54 cm, 30 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 227 g / m 2 , the thickness is 1.24 mm, the air permeability is 126 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property is It was second grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例3]
比較例2の1ヒーター加工タイプの167T72仮撚捲縮糸を2ヒーター加工タイプに変更した以外は実施例3と同様の編成及び加工にて布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った仮撚捲縮糸の単糸クリンプ数は73.9個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.040、交絡数は125個/mであり、この仮撚捲縮糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース31個/2.54cm、ウェルは28個/2.54cm、目付けは212g/m、厚みは1.30mm、通気性は93cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は2−3級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 3]
A fabric was obtained by the same knitting and processing as in Example 3 except that the 1 heater processed type 167T72 false twisted crimped yarn of Comparative Example 2 was changed to the 2 heater processed type. The number of single twist crimps of the false twisted crimped yarn extracted from the obtained fabric is 73.9 pieces / 2.54 cm, the bulkiness coefficient is 0.040, and the number of entanglements is 125 pieces / m. 100.0% was used on the surface of the fabric. The resulting fabric has a density of 31 courses / 2.54 cm, 28 wells / 2.54 cm, a basis weight of 212 g / m 2 , a thickness of 1.30 mm, a breathability of 93 cc / cm 2 / s, and a snug property of It was grade 2-3. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例4]
実施例3の2ヒーター加工タイプの167T72抗スナッグ糸を、第2ヒーターゾーンにおける条件を温度常温、フィード率3%に変更し、1ヒーター加工タイプに変更した以外は実施例3と同様の編成及び加工にて布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った仮撚捲縮糸の単糸クリンプ数は123.8個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.073、交絡数は103個/mであり、この仮撚捲縮糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース56個/2.54cm、ウェルは30個/2.54cm、目付けは233g/m、厚みは1.24mm、通気性は113cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は2−3級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 4]
The knitting and knitting similar to Example 3 except that the two heater processing type 167T72 anti-snag yarn of Example 3 was changed to the one heater processing type by changing the conditions in the second heater zone to room temperature and feed rate of 3%. Fabric was obtained by processing. The number of single crimps of the false twisted crimped yarn extracted from the obtained fabric is 123.8 / 2.54 cm, the bulkiness factor is 0.073, and the number of entanglements is 103 / m. 100.0% was used on the surface of the fabric. The density of the fabric obtained was 56 courses / 2.54 cm, 30 wells / 2.54 cm, the basis weight was 233 g / m 2 , the thickness was 1.24 mm, the air permeability was 113 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property was It was grade 2-3. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例5]
ポリエステル84T36仮撚捲縮糸(捲縮伸長率:42.6%)のS撚りとZ撚りをTMTマシナリー社製マッハ33Hニップベルトタイプ仮撚機にて、加工速度350m/分、第2ヒーターゾーンで常温、オーバーフィード率1.5%にて阿波スピンドル社製インターレースノズルにてエア圧0.2MPaで混繊交絡させ、167T72仮撚捲縮糸を得た。得られた仮撚捲縮糸を福原精機社製22ゲージダブル丸編機にて、図2に示す編み組織の給糸口2と3に配し、給糸口1にはポリエステル84T36−Z仮撚糸、給糸口4にはポリエステル171T48−S仮撚糸を配し、表面鹿の子調のダブル丸編地を作製した。この生機を実施例1と同様の加工を行い、布帛を得た。得られた布帛から抜き取った仮撚捲縮糸の単糸クリンプ数は90.8個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.070、交絡数は34個/mであり、この仮撚捲縮糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。得られた布帛の密度はコース43個/2.54cm、ウェルは33個/2.54cm、目付けは266g/m、厚みは1.14mm、通気性は97cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は2−3級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 5]
S-twist and Z-twist of polyester 84T36 false twisted crimped yarn (crimp elongation: 42.6%) using a Mach 33H nip belt type false twisting machine manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd., processing speed 350 m / min, second heater zone And 156T72 false twisted crimped yarn was obtained at room temperature and an overfeed rate of 1.5% using an interlace nozzle manufactured by Awa Spindle Co., Ltd. with an air pressure of 0.2 MPa. The obtained false twisted crimped yarn was arranged in a 22 gauge double circular knitting machine manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., to the yarn feeders 2 and 3 of the knitting structure shown in FIG. 2, and the yarn feeder 1 had a polyester 84T36-Z false twisted yarn, Polyester 171T48-S false twisted yarn was arranged at the yarn feeder 4 to prepare a double circular knitted fabric with a surface sword-like tone. This raw machine was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric. The number of single twist crimps of the false twisted crimped yarn extracted from the obtained fabric is 90.8 pieces / 2.54 cm, the bulkiness factor is 0.070, and the number of entanglements is 34 pieces / m. 100.0% was used on the surface of the fabric. The density of the obtained fabric is 43 courses / 2.54 cm, the wells are 33 pieces / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 266 g / m 2 , the thickness is 1.14 mm, the air permeability is 97 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snag property is It was grade 2-3. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

[比較例6]
特許文献1の技術を使用したと考えられる、抗スナッグ性とソフト風合いを謳っている市販のスポーツシャツAを入手した。このスポーツシャツAに使用されている編地は、ポリエステル34T36捲縮糸のS撚りとZ撚りを25個/mの交絡数で交絡させた捲縮複合糸100%で構成されており、この捲縮複合糸の単糸クリンプ数は136.2個/2.54cm、嵩高係数は0.066であり、この捲縮複合糸を布帛の表面に使用している割合は100.0%であった。この編地の密度はコース60個/2.54cm、ウェルは44個/2.54cm、目付けは166g/m、厚みは0.86mm、通気性は65cc/cm/s、スナッグ性は4級であった。着用快適性を表1に示す。
[Comparative Example 6]
A commercially available sports shirt A that is thought to have used the technique of Patent Document 1 and that has an anti-snag property and a soft texture was obtained. The knitted fabric used in this sport shirt A is composed of 100% crimped composite yarn in which S twist and Z twist of polyester 34T36 crimped yarn are entangled at an entanglement number of 25 pieces / m. The number of single yarn crimps of the crimped composite yarn was 136.2 pieces / 2.54 cm, the bulkiness coefficient was 0.066, and the proportion of the crimped composite yarn used on the surface of the fabric was 100.0%. . The density of the knitted fabric is 60 courses / 2.54 cm, the wells are 44 pieces / 2.54 cm, the basis weight is 166 g / m 2 , the thickness is 0.86 mm, the air permeability is 65 cc / cm 2 / s, and the snug property is 4 It was a grade. The wearing comfort is shown in Table 1.

Figure 2013060693
Figure 2013060693

本発明の抗スナッグ糸及びそれを用いた布帛により、着用時に問題となるスナッグの発生が起こりにくく、通気性が高く運動時の蒸れ感が少ない清涼感のあるインナー、スポーツウェア、水着等の衣服を製造することができる。したがって、本発明は衣服の製造に好適に利用可能である。   The anti-snag yarn of the present invention and the fabric using the same make clothes such as innerwear, sportswear, swimwear, etc. with a refreshing feeling that hardly causes the occurrence of snags that are problematic when worn, has high breathability and less stuffiness during exercise. Can be manufactured. Therefore, the present invention can be suitably used for manufacturing clothes.

Claims (2)

単糸クリンプ数が75個/2.54cm以上である捲縮糸を含み、かつ、嵩高係数が0.01〜0.06であることを特徴とする抗スナッグ糸。   An anti-snag yarn comprising crimped yarns having a single yarn crimp number of 75 / 2.54 cm or more and having a bulkiness coefficient of 0.01 to 0.06. 請求項1に記載の抗スナッグ糸を布帛表面側に70wt%以上使用し、JIS−L1058(D−3法)に準ずる15時間の試験によるスナッグ性は3級以上であり、かつ、該布帛が編地の場合、JIS−L1018 8.33.1による、布帛が織物の場合、JIS−L1096 8.27.1A法による通気性は80cc/cm/s以上である布帛。 The anti-snag yarn according to claim 1 is used at 70 wt% or more on the fabric surface side, the snag property by a 15-hour test according to JIS-L1058 (D-3 method) is grade 3 or more, and the fabric is In the case of a knitted fabric, according to JIS-L1018 8.33.1, when the fabric is a woven fabric, the air permeability according to JIS-L1096 8.27.1A method is 80 cc / cm 2 / s or more.
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JPH0551829A (en) * 1991-08-21 1993-03-02 Toyobo Co Ltd Spun yarnlike textured yarn for woven fabric and its production
JPH08246279A (en) * 1995-03-08 1996-09-24 Unitika Ltd Polyester-based false twist yarn having fancy effect
JPH0987939A (en) * 1995-09-20 1997-03-31 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Production of bulky crimped elastic covered yarn
JP3127007B2 (en) * 1991-08-21 2001-01-22 株式会社リコー Fluidic flow meter
JP2001064838A (en) * 1999-08-18 2001-03-13 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Spun yarn-like finished yarn and fabric using the same
JP2002030535A (en) * 2000-07-18 2002-01-31 Toray Ind Inc Conjugate false twist covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same
JP2002155442A (en) * 2000-11-16 2002-05-31 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false twisted covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same
JP2002161443A (en) * 2000-09-12 2002-06-04 Asahi Kasei Corp Crimped yarn
JP2002161457A (en) * 2000-11-24 2002-06-04 Unitika Textiles Ltd Knitted fabric of three-layer structure
JP2002249944A (en) * 2001-02-22 2002-09-06 Toray Ind Inc Composite covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric
JP2005105420A (en) * 2003-09-26 2005-04-21 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Sportswear
WO2008001920A1 (en) * 2006-06-28 2008-01-03 Teijin Fibers Limited Knit fabric and sports garment

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0551829A (en) * 1991-08-21 1993-03-02 Toyobo Co Ltd Spun yarnlike textured yarn for woven fabric and its production
JP3127007B2 (en) * 1991-08-21 2001-01-22 株式会社リコー Fluidic flow meter
JPH08246279A (en) * 1995-03-08 1996-09-24 Unitika Ltd Polyester-based false twist yarn having fancy effect
JPH0987939A (en) * 1995-09-20 1997-03-31 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Production of bulky crimped elastic covered yarn
JP2001064838A (en) * 1999-08-18 2001-03-13 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Spun yarn-like finished yarn and fabric using the same
JP2002030535A (en) * 2000-07-18 2002-01-31 Toray Ind Inc Conjugate false twist covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same
JP2002161443A (en) * 2000-09-12 2002-06-04 Asahi Kasei Corp Crimped yarn
JP2002155442A (en) * 2000-11-16 2002-05-31 Toray Ind Inc Polyester false twisted covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same
JP2002161457A (en) * 2000-11-24 2002-06-04 Unitika Textiles Ltd Knitted fabric of three-layer structure
JP2002249944A (en) * 2001-02-22 2002-09-06 Toray Ind Inc Composite covered elastic yarn and method for producing the same and woven/knitted fabric
JP2005105420A (en) * 2003-09-26 2005-04-21 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Sportswear
WO2008001920A1 (en) * 2006-06-28 2008-01-03 Teijin Fibers Limited Knit fabric and sports garment

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