JP2012036149A - Pack cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a pack cosmetic which has no need of washing after application, can be applied for a long time, has excellent use feeling with satisfactory spread, no stickiness and no twisting, has excellent whitening effect of preventing inflammation caused by ultraviolet rays and suppressing melanin production, and further imparts a moisturizing effect with high stability for skin after its use by increasing the permeation of a whitening component and a skin care component.SOLUTION: The pack cosmetic comprises the following components (A) to (D): (A) a water soluble polymer; (B) at least one kind of water soluble ascorbic acid derivative selected from the group consisting of L-ascorbic acid and its salt, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salt, L-ascorbic acid sulfuric ester salt and L-ascorbic acid glycoside; (C) wax which is solid or semisolid at 30°C; and (D) polyhydric alcohol.

Description

The present invention relates to a pack cosmetic that does not need to be wiped off or washed off after application, and more specifically, has a good feeling of spreading, no stickiness and no twist, prevents inflammation caused by ultraviolet rays, and suppresses melanin production It is related with the pack cosmetics which are excellent in the whitening effect to which the skin whitening component and the skin care component are further penetrated, and give a highly moisturizing effect to the skin after use.

Packed cosmetics are used by coating a cosmetic such as lotion or emulsion with a film-forming agent to form a solid film, or impregnating a non-woven fabric such as cotton and covering the skin. Thus, it is a cosmetic that is expected to deeply penetrate skin care ingredients and moisture into the skin due to the occlusion effect of the film or nonwoven fabric. Such pack cosmetics include a peelable pack cosmetic that is dried after application to form a film and then peeled off, a sheet mask cosmetic that adheres the sheet to the face and peels off after a certain period of time, and a wipe-type or rinse-off type cosmetic. There are various things.

The peelable pack cosmetic is a simple pack cosmetic because the application area can be freely adjusted and it is used after being dried and removed. The peelable pack cosmetic is prepared by blending a film forming agent as a main component with a moisturizing agent, alcohols, preservatives, fragrance, powder and the like. As the film forming agent, polyvinyl alcohol is generally used (for example, see Non-Patent Document 1). In order to physically peel after the peelable pack cosmetic is applied to the skin, it is necessary to evaporate water to form a film, and it takes time to dry and become peelable, Due to moisture transpiration and the like, the moisture retention was inferior, and there was a drawback of not being moist. In order to improve these defects, for example, an attempt has been made to increase the occlusion by adding an oil agent. However, there are generally drawbacks such as poor compatibility between the film-forming agent and the oil agent and poor long-term stability of the preparation. Therefore, attempts have been made to improve compatibility with oil agents by using various new polymer compounds as film forming agents (see, for example, Patent Document 1 or 2). However, even in these attempts, the effect of imparting moisture to the skin is insufficient, and particularly the time for adhering to the skin is short, so that the penetration effect of the skin care component has not reached a sufficiently satisfactory level. Moreover, when a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative is blended, the polymer compound of the film forming agent is twisted, and it is difficult to apply uniformly, and the level of use is not satisfactory.

Sheet mask cosmetics are currently the most used because they are easy-to-use pack cosmetics that do not need to be washed off by attaching a nonwoven sheet to the face, peeling off after 10 to 20 minutes. This sheet mask cosmetic is generally obtained by impregnating a non-woven fabric with a cosmetic liquid containing a water-soluble polymer and a polyhydric alcohol (see, for example, Patent Document 3). Pack cosmetics (for example, refer to Patent Document 4) in which an emulsion containing a surfactant, a moisturizing agent, and an oil agent is impregnated, a polyhydric alcohol, a higher alcohol, an oil agent, an emulsifier, and water. A sheet-shaped pack cosmetic (for example, refer to Patent Document 5) that holds the above has been proposed. Although these attempts can increase the feeling of close contact and temporarily provide moisture, the sustainability of the effect is not satisfactory. In addition, there is a problem that a feeling of film or a sticky feeling occurs in the feeling of use.

In the conventional technologies such as these peelable pack cosmetics and sheet mask cosmetics, since the adhesion time to the skin is short, the skin care ingredients and the active ingredients are not sufficiently permeable, and the treatment was performed for a long time. In some cases, the skin irritation caused by the occlusion of the skin has not been sufficiently studied, and a method of use that occludes the skin for a long time has been impossible.

JP 2006-69991 A JP 2007-269712 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-279429 JP 2003-342125 A JP 2004-35459 A

Takeo Mitsui, “New Cosmetics”, Nanzan-do, published on January 12, 1993, page 367

All of the above conventional techniques have been improved as pack cosmetics, but there are limits to the whitening ingredients and the penetration of active ingredients, and the continuous moisturizing effect, making it impossible to use for a long time. The satisfactory characteristics could not be obtained sufficiently. Therefore, the object of the present invention is a pack cosmetic that does not need to be wiped off or washed off after application, has a good feeling of spreading and has an excellent feeling of stickiness, enhances the permeability of whitening ingredients and active ingredients, and after use An object of the present invention is to provide a pack cosmetic that can impart a highly durable moisturizing effect to the skin and make the skin texture smooth and smooth.

As a result of diligent research to achieve the above object, it contains a water-soluble polymer, a water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative, a semi-solid to solid oil agent at 30 ° C., and a polyhydric alcohol. Can be used without being used, has a good feeling of spreading, has no stickiness or twist, has an excellent whitening effect that prevents UV-induced inflammation and suppresses melanin production. The present invention has been completed by finding the effect of enhancing the penetration of skin care ingredients and imparting a long-lasting moisturizing effect to the skin after use.

That is, the present invention includes (A) a water-soluble polymer, (B) L-ascorbic acid and a salt thereof, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salt, L-ascorbic acid sulfate ester salt, and L-ascorbic acid glycoside. A pack cosmetic comprising at least one water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative selected from the group consisting of: (C) a solid or semi-solid wax at 30 ° C., and (D) a polyhydric alcohol.

The pack cosmetic according to the present invention does not need to be wiped off or washed off after application, and can be left on and off, has an excellent feeling of spreading, no stickiness or twist, and prevents inflammation due to ultraviolet rays. It has an excellent whitening effect that suppresses melanin production, and further enhances the penetration of the whitening component and skin care component to impart a highly durable moisturizing effect to the skin after use.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described in detail. The component (A) water-soluble polymer used in the present invention increases the stability of cosmetics due to its viscosity, improves the spread and feeling during use, and is particularly effective as an emulsifier for component (C). Or for the purpose of emulsion stability. Illustrative examples of water-soluble polymers include arabic gum, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, xanthan gum, tamarind gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, locust bean gum, quince seed, gellan gum, native gellan gum, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polyvinyl Alcohol, polyethylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylamide, polymethacrylamide, methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, methacrylamidepropyltrimethylammonium chloride, Nn-butoxymethylacrylamide, N-iso-butoxyacrylamide, tert-butylacrylamide sulfone Acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, or these Copolymer of compatible monomer raw material and other polymerizable monomer, or methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, alginic acid, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, collagen, chitin derivative, pectin, Examples thereof include gelatin, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, and salts thereof. The pack cosmetic of the present invention is used in combination of one or more of these water-soluble polymers. Among these water-soluble polymers, particularly preferred are one or more synthetic polymers selected from carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, and polyacrylamide, curdlan, xanthan gum, tamarind gum, gellan gum, pullulan. It is a combination of one or more natural polymers selected from the above, and it is preferable to have a feeling of use such as stretching during use and no twisting during application.

Content of a component (A) water-soluble polymer becomes like this. Preferably it is 0.01-10 mass% in a whole composition, More preferably, it is 0.1-5 mass%. If the amount is less than 0.01% by mass, a sufficient viscosity-imparting effect may not be obtained. If the amount exceeds 10% by mass, the viscosity becomes too high, and the formulation may become poorly spread or sticky, which may impair the feeling of use. is there.

Examples of the component (B) water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative used in the present invention include L-ascorbic acid and salts thereof, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester, L-ascorbic acid sulfate ester, and L-ascorbic acid glycoside. Can be mentioned. Specifically, L-ascorbic acid and its sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, barium salt, ammonium salt, monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, triethanolamine salt, monoisopropanolamine salt, triisopropane Noramine salt; sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, barium salt, ammonium salt, monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, triethanolamine salt, monoisopropanolamine salt of L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate, Triisopropanololamine salt; sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt, barium salt, ammonium salt, monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, triethanolamine salt of L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfuric acid Ethanolamine salt, monoisopropanolamine salt, tri isopropane alkanolamine salt; L-ascorbic acid -2-O-glucoside, and the like. The pack cosmetic of the present invention is used in combination of one or more of these water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives. Among these water-soluble ascorbic acid derivatives, L-ascorbic acid sodium phosphate, L-ascorbic acid magnesium phosphate, and L-ascorbic acid-2-O-glucoside are particularly preferable.

Content of a component (B) water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative becomes like this. Preferably it is 0.1-10 mass% in a whole composition, More preferably, it is 0.5-5 mass%. Within this range, a sufficient whitening effect can be obtained, and the usability and storage stability are excellent, which is preferable.

The component (C) used in the present invention is a solid or semi-solid wax at 30 ° C., which adheres to the skin surface in a solid or semi-solid state when the pack cosmetic of the present invention is applied to the skin. It has a function similar to that of a nonwoven fabric. Specifically, it is waxes, hydrocarbons, fats and oils, and shows a solid or semi-solid (paste-like) shape at 30 ° C. Examples of waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, shellac, lanolin, whale wax, sugar cane wax, palm wax, wool fat, beeswax and the like. Examples of hydrocarbons include ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin, polyethylene powder, microcrystalline wax, petrolatum and the like. Fats and oils include hydrogenated palm kernel fatty acid glyceryl, hydrogenated palm fatty acid glyceryl, hydrogenated palm oil fatty acid glyceryl, hydrogenated soybean fatty acid glyceryl, cocoa butter, palm oil, palm kernel oil, molasses, beef tallow, shea butter, dimer Linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), dimer dilinoleate di (isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleate dimer dilinoleyl, dimer dilinoleate dilinoleyl (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), Examples thereof include dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, branched or hydroxylated fatty acid cholesteryl, macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, tri (capryl / caprin / myristin / stearic acid) glyceride and the like. The pack cosmetic of the present invention is used in combination of one or more of these solid or semi-solid waxes at 30 ° C. In addition, higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol showing a solid shape at 30 ° C. do not fall under the component (C) of the present invention because the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. Among these solid or semi-solid waxes at 30 ° C., hydrogenated palm kernel fatty acid glyceryl, hydrogenated palm fatty acid glyceryl, hydrogenated palm are particularly preferable in terms of odor change over time and no stickiness. Oil fatty acid glyceryl, shea butter, dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), dimer dilinoleic acid di (isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleic acid dilinoleyl (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), Tri (capryl / caprin / myristin / stearic acid) glyceride.

Component (C) The content of the solid or semi-solid wax at 30 ° C. is preferably 1 to 30% by mass and more preferably 5 to 20% by mass in the total composition. If the amount is less than 1% by mass, a sufficient film effect may not be obtained. If the amount exceeds 30% by mass, the formulation may have poor spread and stickiness, which may impair the feeling of use.

The component (D) polyhydric alcohol used in the present invention is blended for the purpose of preventing aggregation and twisting when the cosmetic pack is applied to the skin, and the effect and formation of the component (C) as a dispersant. The film is made flexible for a long time. Specific examples of the polyhydric alcohol include glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight of 1000 or less), propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, diprepylene glycol, dipropylene glycol Examples include glycerin, polyglycerin, trehalose, glucosyl trehalose, xylitol, fructose, lactose, trimethylglycine, sorbitol, maltitol and the like. In the pack cosmetic of the present invention, these polyhydric alcohols are used alone or in combination of two or more.

Content of a component (D) polyhydric alcohol becomes like this. Preferably it is 5-50 mass% in a whole composition, More preferably, it is 10-30 mass%. When the amount is less than 5% by mass, the improvement of moisture retention is not sufficiently exhibited. When the amount exceeds 50% by mass, a sticky feeling is generated, which is not preferable.

In the pack cosmetic of the present invention, the component (C) that has been heated and dissolved in advance at a temperature equal to or higher than the melting point is dispersed in the component (A), (B), (D), or a mixture thereof. This method does not require an emulsification step at a high temperature unlike ordinary emulsions and creams, and can be produced at room temperature, and has an advantage of high efficiency in the production step.

The dosage form of the pack cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include liquid, emulsion, cream, oil, gel, aerosol, solid, stick, and aerosol.

In addition to the above essential components, the pack cosmetic of the present invention can use any components that are usually used within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. These components include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, oils, UV absorbers, preservatives, moisturizers, polymers, amino acid derivatives, sugar derivatives, perfumes, water, Alcohols, thickeners, colorants, sequestering agents, antioxidants, drugs, fragrances and the like can be mentioned.

EXAMPLES Next, although this invention is demonstrated in detail based on an Example, it is not limited to this. Prior to the examples, test methods and evaluation methods employed in each example will be described.

No spread, stickiness or stickiness during use:
(Evaluation method) Ten professional panelists used each cosmetic to stretch, stick (no twist and do not spread evenly), and have no stickiness. Evaluation was performed, the average score was obtained, and judged according to the following criteria.
(Criteria)
◎: Average score is 4.5 or more 〇: Average score is 3.5 or more and less than 4.5 △: Average score is 2.5 or more and less than 3.5 ×: Average score is 1.5 or more, 2.5 Less than xx: Average score is less than 1.5

Skin lightness recovery test:
(Evaluation methods)
The back skin of five subjects was irradiated with UV rays in the UV-B region twice as much as the minimum erythema amount, the cosmetic application site and the non-application site were set, and the reference brightness (V ₀ value, V _{0 ′} value) of each skin ) Was measured. Subsequently, after each cosmetic was continuously applied to the application site twice a day for 3 weeks, the lightness (V _n value, V _{n ′} value) of the skin at the application site and the non-application site was measured. The following evaluation points were calculated and skin color recovery was evaluated. The lightness of the skin (Munsell color system V value) was calculated from X, Y, and Z values obtained by measurement with a high-speed spectral colorimeter. Moreover, evaluation calculated | required the average value of the evaluation score of a test subject, and determined by the following references | standards.
ΔV: Recovery value of the application site (V _n −V ₀ )
ΔV ′: Recovery value of non-application site (V _{n ′} −V _{0 ′} )
Evaluation point: Difference in recovery value between application and non-application (ΔV−ΔV ′)
(Judgment criteria)
A: ΔV−ΔV ′ ≧ 0.12
○: 0.12> ΔV−ΔV ′ ≧ 0.08
Δ: 0.08> ΔV−ΔV ′ ≧ 0.04
X: 0.04> ΔV−ΔV ′ ≧ 0
XX: 0> ΔV−ΔV ′

Whitening effect after continuous use, moisturizing feeling:
(Evaluation methods)
10 professional panelists used each cosmetic for 3 weeks, and the whitening effect and moisturizing feeling were subjected to 5 levels of sensory evaluation from 1 point to 5 points, the average score was obtained, and judged according to the following criteria.
(Judgment criteria)
◎: Average score is 4.5 or more 〇: Average score is 3.5 or more and less than 4.5 △: Average score is 2.5 or more and less than 3.5 ×: Average score is 1.5 or more, 2.5 Less than xx: Average score is less than 1.5

Examples 1-9, Comparative Examples 1-4
Pack cosmetics having the formulations shown in Table 1 were prepared and the above tests were performed. The results are also shown in Table 1.

As is clear from Table 1, all the pack cosmetics of Examples using the components of the present invention had excellent performance. On the other hand, in the comparative example lacking any of the essential ingredients, it is inferior in any aspect of spreading, stickiness, non-stickiness during use, skin lightness recovery test, whitening effect after continuous use, moisturizing feeling. The object of the invention could not be achieved.

Hereinafter, other prescription examples of the present pack cosmetic will be described as examples. The unit of any prescription amount is mass% (simply expressed as%). Regarding the pack cosmetics of these examples, each item was examined with respect to the above-mentioned spread, stickiness, non-stickiness, skin lightness recovery test, whitening effect after continuous use, and moisturizing feeling. Also had excellent characteristics.

Example 10 (cream pack)
(1) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.5%
(2) Acrylic acid / methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer 0.3%
(3) Xanthan gum 0.2%
(4) L-ascorbic acid-3-O-glucoside 2.0%
(5) Hydrogenated palm oil fatty acid glyceryl 5.0%
(6) Tori (Capryl / Caprin / Myristine / Stearic acid) 1.0%
(7) Glycerin 10.0%
(8) Dipropylene glycol 10.0%
(9) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0%
(10) Potassium hydroxide 0.8%
(11) Liquid paraffin 2.0%
(12) N-acetylglucosamine 0.1%
(13) Sodium hyaluronate 0.2%
(14) Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1%
(15) Water-soluble collagen (F) 0.2%
(16) Sodium chondroitin sulfate 0.2%
(17) Glycosyl trehalose 0.5%
(18) D-pantothenyl alcohol 0.2%
(19) Disodium edetate 0.01%
(20) Phenoxyethanol 0.2%
(21) Ethylhexyl glycerol 0.05%
(22) Fragrance 0.01%
(23) Balance of purified water

(Manufacturing method)
(5), (6) and (11) are heated to 50 ° C. and dispersed in the mixture of (7) to (9). In addition to the gel solution prepared by using a part of (1), (2), (3), (10) and (23), the mixture is dispersed with a homomixer. Next, the remainder of (4), (12) to (22) and (23) was added and mixed uniformly, and filled into a pump mist container to prepare a cream pack.

Example 11 (gel pack)
(1) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.8%
(2) Xanthan gum 0.1%
(3) L-ascorbic acid-3-O-glucoside 1.0%
(4) L-ascorbic acid phosphate magnesium 1.0%
(5) Hydrogenated palm fatty acid glyceryl 5.0%
(6) Diglycerin 5.0%
(7) Dipropylene glycol 3.0%
(8) Polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside 1.0%
(9) Potassium hydroxide 0.9%
(10) Polyoxyethylene monolaurate (20) Sorbitan 0.5%
(11) Polyoxyethylene (60) hydrogenated castor oil 0.2%
(12) Cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol 0.1%
(13) Methylcyclopolysiloxane 5.0%
(14) Sodium hyaluronate 0.2%
(15) Lotus seed lactic acid bacteria fermentation liquid 0.2%
(16) Yokuinin extract 0.1%
(17) Lemon extract 0.2%
(18) N-acetylglucosamine 0.2%
(19) Hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetate trisodium 0.02%
(20) Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
(21) Balance of purified water

(Manufacturing method) (5) is heated to 50 degreeC and disperse | distributed to the mixture of (6)-(8). In addition to the gel solution prepared by using (1), (2), (3), (9) and (21), the mixture is dispersed with a homomixer. Then, (4) and (10) to (20) were added and mixed uniformly, and filled into a jar container to prepare a gel pack.

Example 12 (Cosmetic liquid pack)
(1) Acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.5%
(2) Xanthan gum 0.1%
(3) Sodium L-ascorbate phosphate 1.0%
(4) (Behenic acid / isostearic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl 5.0%
(5) Hydrogenated macadamia nut oil 1.0%
(6) Glycerin 5.0%
(7) Dipropylene glycol 5.0%
(8) 1,3-propanediol 10.0%
(9) Sodium hydroxide 0.1%
(10) Squalane 2.0%
(11) Sodium chondroitin sulfate 0.05%
(12) N-acetylglucosamine 0.1%
(13) Sodium hyaluronate 0.2%
(14) Edetate disodium 0.01%
(15) Balance of purified water

(Manufacturing method)
(4), (5) is heated to 50 ° C. and dispersed in the mixture of (6) to (8). In addition to the gel solution prepared by using a part of (1), (2), (3), (9) and (15), the mixture is dispersed with a homomixer. Subsequently, (10) to (14) were added and mixed uniformly, and filled into a bottle container to prepare a serum pack.

Claims (1)

A pack cosmetic comprising the following components (A) to (D).
(A) Water-soluble polymer (B) L-ascorbic acid and salts thereof, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salt, L-ascorbic acid sulfate ester salt, at least selected from the group consisting of L-ascorbic acid glycosides A water-soluble ascorbic acid derivative (C), a solid or semi-solid wax at 30 ° C. (D) a polyhydric alcohol