JP2012020976A - Emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an emulsion cosmetic having smooth spreadability on the skin at coating, providing flexible film feeling after being coated, capable of imparting tenseness and elasticity to the skin, and having excellent emulsion stability in a wide temperature range in a low temperature region and a high temperature region.SOLUTION: The emulsion cosmetic contains the following components (A) and (B), and has the oil phase containing ≥40 mass% of a solid oil component: (A) an N-acylamino acid obtained by bonding an acyl group derived from an 8-22C saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid to one kind of an amino acid selected from the group consisting of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, threonine, methylalanine, sarcosine, lysine and arginine, and/or a salt thereof; and (B) an ester of a hydroxystearic acid with a 1-22C saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-containing a hydroxy compound, or an ester of the hydroxystearic acid with cholesterol or phytosterol.

Description

  The present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to an emulsified cosmetic that can impart firmness and elasticity to the skin.

  Cosmetics for improving elasticity and elasticity are used in areas where fine lines such as the eyes and mouth are conspicuous. In these cosmetics, as a means for improving elasticity and elasticity, a specific copolymer is blended to form a film of the copolymer on the skin to give a firm feeling ( Patent Document 1).

  However, when a firm feeling is given by forming a film with a copolymer or the like, the flexibility of the film is low and the feeling of close contact with the skin is weak. There was a case where tearing easily occurred and peeling occurred.

  On the other hand, there has been reported a cosmetic that forms a oil film on the skin and gives a touchy feeling by blending a solid oil such as pentaerythritol tetrabehenate (Patent Document 2).

JP 10-316550 A Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 6-62382

However, when a firm feeling is given by forming an oil film with a solid oil component, it is necessary to add a relatively large amount of the solid oil component, resulting in a deterioration in the feeling of use such as a heavy elongation during coating and a hard coating. . In addition, in order to enhance the feeling of use, when liquid oil is added and the amount of solid oil is reduced, not only the feeling of firmness is insufficient, but also a problem of feeling sticky or lacking richness has occurred. It was.
Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an emulsified cosmetic that has good elongation to the skin at the time of application, has a supple film feeling, and can impart firmness and elasticity to the skin.

  Therefore, the present inventor has conducted various studies on emulsifiers and solid oils in emulsified cosmetics containing a solid oil in the oil phase. As a result, (A) N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof as an emulsifier, By using together (B) hydroxystearic acid ester as a shape oil and containing 40% by mass or more of solid oil in the oil phase, it is excellent in elongation at the time of application, flexibility of film feeling, and elasticity. Moreover, the present invention has been completed by finding an emulsified cosmetic material having excellent stability in a wide temperature range.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) and (B),
Provided is an emulsified cosmetic comprising (A) an N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof and (B) a hydroxystearic acid ester, and containing 40% by mass or more of a solid oil in an oil phase. Is.

  The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a smooth elongation to the skin at the time of application, has a supple film feeling after application, and can impart firmness and elasticity to the skin. Moreover, the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has excellent temporal stability.

  The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) an N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof, and (B) a hydroxystearic acid ester, and contains 40% or more of solid oil in the oil phase.

  The (A) N-acylamino acid and / or salt thereof used in the present invention is a water-soluble surfactant and acts as an emulsifier in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention.

  As the amino acid constituting the N-acyl amino acid of component (A), glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, threonine, methylalanine, sarcosine, lysine, arginine and the like can be used. These amino acids may be L-form, D-form or DL-form. One of these may be used, or two or more selected from the above group may be mixed and used. In view of stability over time and lack of stickiness, acidic amino acids are more preferable. Specifically, glutamic acid, glycine, and alanine are more preferable, and glutamic acid is particularly preferable.

  As the acyl group constituting the N-acylamino acid of component (A), an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms can be used. For example, examples of fatty acids include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, behenic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, palm oil fatty acid, and hardened beef tallow fatty acid. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. In particular, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, coconut oil fatty acid, and palm oil fatty acid are preferred from the viewpoint of stability over time and lack of stickiness. In particular, lauric acid, myristic acid, and stearic acid are preferable.

  The salt of component (A) is not particularly limited. For example, alkali salts such as sodium and potassium, inorganic salts such as calcium, magnesium, aluminum, and zinc, or organic substances such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine Examples include organic salts of amines, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and one or more of these may be used in combination. Sodium, potassium, triethanolamine, and arginine are preferable because they are easily available on the market.

  Specific examples of component (A) include coconut oil fatty acid-derived acylated potassium glutamate, palm oil fatty acid-derived acylated sodium glutamate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the like. Include sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.

  The content of the component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, and further preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass in the total amount of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. . If it is in the said range, since stability of the emulsification system at the time of high temperature preservation | save is improved and the feeling of stickiness is favorable, it is preferable.

As (B) hydroxystearic acid ester used in the present invention, an ester of hydroxystearic acid and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group-containing hydroxy compound having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, hydroxystearic acid, Preference is given to esters with cholesterol or phytosterols.
The solid oil component in the present invention is an oil component that is solid or pasty at 25 ° C. Oils that are solid or pasty at 25 ° C. have a melting point in the temperature range above 25 ° C., and especially those that are pasty do not become completely liquid at 25 ° C., but are semi-solid. Can be distinguished. (B) Hydroxy stearic acid ester is a paste-like oil component at 25 ° C., and is contained in the solid oil component in the present invention.

  Examples of the saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group-containing hydroxy compound having 1 to 22 carbon atoms include saturated or unsaturated linear or branched primary alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 carbon atom. Examples include -22 saturated or unsaturated linear or branched polyhydric alcohols and triglycerides having a hydroxy group-containing saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid residue having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these, examples of the primary alcohol include methanol, ethanol, octanol, and stearyl alcohol. Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol and the like. Examples of the triglyceride include hydrogenated castor oil.

  Specific examples of the component (B) include octyl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated hydroxystearic castor oil, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol hydroxystearate, methyl hydroxystearate, dipentaerystyl hexahydroxystearate and the like. Preferred components (B) include hydroxystearic acid hydrogenated castor oil and hexahydroxystearic acid dipentaerystyryl.

  The content of the component (B) is preferably 1 to 15% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and most preferably 2 to 8% by mass with respect to the total amount of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. . If it is in the said range, it is preferable from the point which suppresses richness, a feeling of stickiness, and oiliness.

  The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains 40% by mass or more of solid oil in the oil phase. Here, the solid oil component is a solid or paste oil component at 25 ° C. as described above.

  Specific examples of the solid oil include higher alcohols, fatty acids and esters thereof (including component (B)), ethers, waxes, waxes, and the like. Examples of higher alcohols include myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Examples of fatty acids and esters or ethers thereof include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tribehenate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (POE10-30), cetyl palmitate, and the like. Can be mentioned. Examples of the wax include paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, and carnauba wax. Examples of the wax include mole owl, candelilla wax, beeswax and the like, and one or more of these can be used.

  It is necessary to contain 40% by mass or more of a solid oil in the oil phase from the viewpoint of imparting firmness and elasticity, and preferably 40 to 40% from the viewpoint of elongation at the time of coating and improvement in the flexibility of the film feeling. Contains 50% by mass. The oil phase is a total of components that are easily dissolved in oils such as hydrocarbons, silicone oils, polar oils, fats and oils, waxes, higher fatty acids and higher alcohols.

  In the present invention, (C) a higher alcohol having 14 to 26 carbon atoms is preferably contained in the solid oil component. A saturated alcohol having 14 to 26 carbon atoms is preferable, and a saturated monohydric alcohol having 18 to 26 carbon atoms is more preferable.

  Specific examples of component (C) include myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaid alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, carnervir alcohol, ceryl alcohol and the like. It is done. In particular, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are preferable, and stearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are more preferable from the viewpoint of stability over time of the emulsion composition, elasticity, and imparting elasticity. It is preferable.

  The content of the component (C) is preferably 1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 1 to 8% by mass, and most preferably 2 to 5% by mass in the total amount of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. . If it is in the said range, it is excellent in the stability with time of an emulsion composition, elasticity, and the provision property of elasticity, and it is preferable.

  The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains (D) a divalent or trivalent alcohol in order to improve the elongation at the time of application and the smoothness of the film feeling.

  Specific examples of the component (D) include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (number average molecular weight less than 1000), propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol (number average molecular weight less than 1000), glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, Examples include isoprene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol.

  Preferred components (D) include glycerin and dipropylene glycol.

  Component (D) is preferably 5 to 15% by mass and more preferably 7 to 13% by mass in the total amount of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. If it is in the said range, the elongation at the time of application | coating and the smoothness of a film | membrane feeling will become favorable.

  The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains (E) monosaccharides, disaccharides, and sugar alcohols thereof for the purpose of improving the smoothness and smoothness of the film.

  Specific examples of the component (E) include tetrose such as D-erythrulose, D-erythrose, D-threose, D-arabinose, L-arabinose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-lyxose, D-ribose and the like. Aldopentoses, D-xylulose, L-xylulose, D-ribulose, ketopentoses such as L-ribulose, aldohexoses such as D-galactose, L-galactose, D-glucose, D-talose, D-mannose, Examples thereof include ketohexoses such as L-sorbose, D-tagatose, D-psicose and D-fructose, and branched sugars such as D-apiose and D-hamamelose. Specific examples of disaccharides include xylobiose, agarobiose, carabiose, maltose, isomaltose, sophorose, cellobiose, trehalose, neotrehalose, isotrehalose, inulobiose, vicyanose, isoprimebellose, sambibiose, primebellose, melabiose, melibiose, Examples thereof include lycobiose, epicellobiose, sucrose, turanose, maltulose, lactulose, epigentibose, robinobiose, silanobiose, and rutinose. Examples of the sugar alcohol include erythritol, D-arabitol, xylitol, D-ribitol, galactitol, D-glucitol, D-mannitol, maltitol and the like.

  As a preferred component (E), glucose, maltose, maltitol, sucrose, mannitol, sorbitol, trehalose can be used.

  The content of the component (E) is preferably 1 to 10% by mass and more preferably 3 to 8% by mass in the total amount of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. Within this range, smoothness and smoothness of the film feeling will be good.

  In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above components, surfactants other than the component (A) that is usually blended in cosmetics, liquid oil, lower alcohol, fluorine, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Compound, resin, ultraviolet absorber, thickener, antibacterial preservative, fragrance, moisturizer, salt, amino acid, vitamins, solvent, antioxidant, chelating agent, neutralizer, pH adjuster, insect repellent, Components such as physiologically active components can be used. Here, as the liquid oil, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin and other hydrocarbon oils, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl oleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, cetyl caprylate, laurin Hexyl acid, decyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, decyl oleate, glyceryl triethylhexanoate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri (caprylate-caprate), lauryl lactate, octyldodecyl lactate, olive oil, wheat germ oil, rice bran oil, sesame oil , Liquid oil or ester oil such as safflower oil, soybean oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, macadamia nut oil, mink oil, meadowweed oil, methylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane Cyclic polysiloxane, alkyl-modified silicone oil, alcohol-modified silicone oil, silicone oils such as amino-modified silicone oil, fluorine oil, etc. perfluoropolyether and the like.

  As an application of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, it can be used without any particular limitation as a cosmetic, but it has a smooth stretch after application and has a supple film feeling after application, giving the skin firmness and elasticity. Therefore, it can be suitably used for cosmetics that are not wash-out types such as hair cosmetics such as shampoos, rinses and conditioners, facial cleansers, and cleansing cosmetics. It is particularly preferable to apply to anti-aging cosmetics, cosmetics for eyes, cosmetics for mouth, sunscreen cosmetics, cosmetic base cosmetics, foundations and the like.

  As the dosage form of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, it can be applied to liquid, emulsion, cream, paste, solid, multilayer, etc., and can also be applied as a sheet, spray, mousse. It is preferable to form a cream that can provide a rich coating feeling. As the emulsification type, various emulsification types such as oil-in-water emulsification, water-in-oil emulsification, W / O / W, and O / W / O can be selected.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention in more detail, this invention is not limited by these.

Examples 1-6, Comparative Examples 1-6
Emulsified cosmetics having the formulations shown in Table 1 were produced, and using these, the following (1) stability test and (2) usability test were performed. The results are also shown in Table 1.

Stability test Each sample was stored in a constant temperature bath at 60 ° C. for one week. The state after one week was visually observed and judged using the following criteria.
[Storage stability criteria]
◎: No change ○: Some change in viscosity is seen △: Clear change in viscosity is seen ×: Separated

(2) Usability test Using the emulsified cosmetics shown in the examples for 10 female panelists, regarding the four items of “Elongation at application”, “Feeling”, “Stickness” and “Film feeling”. A questionnaire was conducted and evaluation was performed based on the following evaluation criteria. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Evaluation criteria)
Elongation at the time of application 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Neither can be said 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad

Sense of tension 5: Present 4: Somewhat present 3: Cannot be said 2: Somewhat none 1: None

Stickiness 5: None 4: Slightly absent 3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly present 1: Present

Feeling of film 5: Flexible 4: Slightly flexible 3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly hard 1: Hard

(Criteria)
◎: Average point is 4.0 or more ○: Average point is 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 △: Average point is 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 ×: Average point is less than 2.0

(Production method)
A. (Oil phase) Components (1) to (15) are uniformly mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C.
B. (Aqueous phase) Components (16) to (24) are uniformly mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C.
C. While maintaining A at 80 ° C., B is gradually added and uniformly emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cooled to normal temperature and obtained emulsified cosmetics.

  The formulation example (eye cream) of the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is given below. All of these cosmetics are highly stable over time and excellent in feeling of use (good elongation, firmness, no stickiness, and softness of film feeling).

(Prescription Example 1: Eye Cream)
Compounding ingredients Mass%
(1) Squalane 17.0
(2) Methylpolysiloxane 1.0
(3) Stearic acid (S) 1.0
(4) Glyceryl tristearate (S) 3.0
(5) Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (POE20) (S) 1.0
(6) Behenyl alcohol (C) 3.0
(7) Beeswax (S) 2.5
(8) Cetyl palmitate (S) 1.5
(9) Hydroxy stearic acid hydrogenated castor oil (B) 2.5
(10) Dipentaerythethyl hexahydroxystearate (B) 2.0
(11) Glyceryl triethylhexanoate 6.0
(12) Sodium stearoyl glutamate (A) 1.0
(13) Maltitol solution (E) 5.0
(14) Glycerin (D) 4.0
(15) Dipropylene glycol (D) 5.0
(16) Phenoxyethanol 0.4
(17) Xanthan gum 0.1
(18) Edetate disodium 0.05
(19) Rose extract 0.1
(20) Purified water remainder * A to E in () indicate component description in the present invention, and S indicates a solid oil content. In Formulation Example 1, the components (B), (C), and S are solid oil components, and the oil phase contains about 40.7% of solid oil components.

(Production method)
A. (Oil phase) Components (1) to (11) are uniformly mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C.
B. (Aqueous phase) Components (12) to (20) are uniformly mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C.
C. While maintaining A at 80 ° C., B is gradually added and uniformly emulsified with a homomixer. Then, it cooled to normal temperature and obtained the cream for eyes.

Claims (7)

The following components (A) and (B),
An emulsified cosmetic comprising (A) an N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof, and (B) a hydroxystearic acid ester, and containing 40% by mass or more of a solid oil in an oil phase.   (A) N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof is one amino acid selected from the group consisting of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycine, alanine, threonine, methylalanine, sarcosine, lysine and arginine, and has 8 carbon atoms. The emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, which is an N-acylamino acid and / or a salt thereof to which an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid of -22 is bonded.   (B) hydroxystearic acid ester is an ester of hydroxystearic acid and a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group-containing hydroxy compound having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and hydroxystearic acid and cholesterol or phytosterol The emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the emulsified cosmetic is one or more selected from the group consisting of the esters.   The emulsified composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil phase contains 40 to 50% by mass of a solid oil component.   The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (C) a higher alcohol having 14 to 26 carbon atoms in the solid oil component.   The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising (D) a divalent or trivalent alcohol.   The emulsified cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising (E) a monosaccharide, a disaccharide, or a sugar alcohol thereof.