JP2011126790A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a skin cosmetic having excellent moisture-keeping properties, and good sense of use without irritation and sticky feeling, preventing the humectant component from being washed away by sweat or water to remain at the coated site for a long time, and lasting the moisture-keeping effects. <P>SOLUTION: The skin cosmetic contains the following components (A) and (B): (A) a biosurfactant; and (B) an organopolysiloxane having groups of the formulas (wherein, R<SP>1</SP>and R<SP>2</SP>are each 1-4C alkyl; R<SP>3</SP>is 1-40C linear, branched or cyclic alkyl, alkenyl or fluoroalkyl; R<SP>4</SP>is 7-40C linear, branched or cyclic alkyl, alkenyl or fluoroalkyl; l is a number of ≥2; m is a number of ≥3; and l+m is 5-6,000) in the molecule. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic, and more particularly to a skin cosmetic that is excellent in moisture retention, has no irritation and stickiness, has a good feeling of use, and is highly durable.

Conventionally, it has been known that the moisture in the stratum corneum is important for imparting moisture to the skin and making the skin soft. The moisture retention is attributed to water-soluble components contained in the stratum corneum, that is, free amino acids, organic acids, urea, or inorganic ions, and these substances are used alone or in combination for medicinal skin cosmetics. Or it mix | blends with cosmetics and is used for the purpose of the improvement or prevention of rough skin.

Apart from this, many moisturizing substances having high affinity with water have been developed and used for the same purpose.

Furthermore, in recent years, it has been found that lipids present between keratinocytes have a high moisturizing ability, and the artificial intercellular lipid composed of a similar structural substance of the keratinocyte lipid component gives moisture to the skin. Softening is performed, and a relatively high effect is obtained.

In recent years, amphiphiles have been used in various fields. An amphiphilic substance is a substance having two different properties of hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, and a substance having such a property is called a surfactant. For example, a glycolipid has two properties of hydrophilicity derived from the property of sugar and lipophilicity derived from the property of lipid, and is an example of a surfactant.

Synthetic surfactants have been developed as a result of the development of the petrochemical industry, and the production of synthetic surfactants has increased dramatically compared to surfactants derived from biological components, and now they are indispensable for daily life. It was.

However, since synthetic surfactants have low biodegradability, environmental pollution is becoming a serious problem as the amount of synthetic surfactants used increases. Therefore, in order to reduce the burden on the environment, biosurfactants with high safety and high biodegradability have been reviewed again, and the development of various types of biosurfactants has been desired.

Examples of the biosurfactant include five types of biosurfactants of glycolipid type, acyl peptide type, phospholipid type, fatty acid type and polymer compound type.

Among the biosurfactants, lecithin, which is a phospholipid biosurfactant, has been used as an emulsifier for a long time. When suspended in water, the phospholipid associates to form a double membrane. It is known to form vesicles with confined phases. These vesicles are also called liposomes, and are used as models of biological membranes or as carriers for cosmetics and drugs. In addition, the present condition is that little is known about what forms a vesicle in biosurfactants other than a phospholipid type.

On the other hand, many types of biosurfactants produced by bacteria or yeast have been reported as glycolipid biosurfactants. Glycolipid biosurfactants are not only highly biodegradable, have low toxicity and are environmentally friendly, but also have excellent physiological functions. For example, glycolipid-based biosurfactants are known to have a high moisturizing effect and are expected to be used as ingredients in cosmetics and the like.

One typical glycolipid biosurfactant is mannosyl erythritol lipid (hereinafter sometimes referred to as “MEL”). MEL is a substance discovered from Ustilago nuda and Shizonella melanogramma (see Non-Patent Documents 1 and 2). Thereafter, yeasts of the genus Candida, which are mutants of itaconic acid production (see Patent Document 2 and Non-patent Document 3), Candida antarctica (currently Pseudozyma antarctica) (Non-Patent Documents 4 and 5) It is reported that the yeast is also produced by yeasts of the genus Kurtzmanomyces (see Non-Patent Document 6). At present, production of 100 g / L or more is possible by continuous culture and production for a long time.

MEL has 4-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-meso-erythritol structure and 1-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-form as shown in the following general formula (1) as optical isomers of erythritol having a sugar skeleton. A meso-erythritol structure (the following general formula (2)) exists.

By synthesizing one kind of MEL having this 1-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-meso-erythritol structure, it is proved that the sugar skeleton of the conventional MEL has the structure of the above general formula (1). (Non-Patent Document 7). Most recently, the MEL having a conventional 4-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-meso-erythritol structure is an optical isomer of 1-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-meso of the above general formula (2). -It has been found that mass production can be achieved by producing MEL having an erythritol structure using microorganisms such as Pseudozyma tsukubaensis (Patent Document 3).

MEL having a conventional 4-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-meso-erythritol structure has been reported to have various physiological activities including antibacterial properties, antitumor properties, glycoprotein binding ability (non- Patent Document 8). In addition, this conventional MEL exhibits extremely unique self-assembly characteristics, and not only a slight difference in molecular structure has a great influence on the formation of self-assemblies, but also dilute solutions (6.3 × 10 ^-2 wt% or less) (non-patent document 9). Furthermore, a liquid crystal emulsification technique (Patent Document 4) using a conventional MEL bicontinuous sponge structure is also reported.

Japanese Patent No. 3095420 Japanese Patent Publication No.57-145896 WO2008 / 018448 JP 2007-181789 A

R. H. R. H. Haskins, Jay. A. Tone (J. A. Thorn), B. Boothroyd, “Can. J. Microbiol.”, Volume 1, p 749-756 (1955). Gee. G. Deml, Tee. T. Anke, F. F. Oberwinkler, B. M. G. Giannetti, W. Steglich, “Phytochemistry”, Vol. 19, p83-87 (1980). Tee. Nakahara, H. Kawasaki, T. T. Sugisawa, Wy. Y. Takamori, Tee. T. Tabuchi, “Journal of Fermentation Technology” (Japan), Japan Fermentation Engineering Society, 61, p19-23 (1983). Di. Kitamoto, S. Akiba, See. C. Hioki, Tee. T. Tabuchi, “Agric. Biol. Chem.”, (Japan), Japan Society for Agricultural Chemistry, Volume 54. p31-36 (1990). H. S. Kim (H.-S. Kim), Bee. Di. Yoon (B.-D. Yoon), Di. H. D.-H. Choung, H. M. Oh (H.-M. Oh), Tee. T. Katsuragi, Wye. Y. Tani "Appl. Microbiol. Biotechnol.", (Germany), Springer-Verlag, 52, p713-721 (1999). K. kakukawa, M. Tamai, K. Imamura, K. Miyamoto, S. Miyoshi, Y. Morinaga, O. Suzuki, Miyagawa (T. Miyakawa) “Bioscience, Biotechnol. Biochem.” (Japan), Japan Society for Agricultural Chemistry, 66, p188-191 (2002). Di. D. Crich, M. A. Mora, Earl. R. Cruz “Tetrahedron” (Netherlands), Elsevier, 58, p35-44 (2002). Dai Kitamoto “Oreoscience” (Japan), Japan Oil Chemists' Society, Volume 3, p663-672 (2003). Tee. T. Imura, N. N. Ohta, K. Inoue, N. N. Yagi, H. H. Negishi, H. H. Yanagishita, Di. Kitamoto “Chemistry European Journal (Chem. Eur. J)” (USA), Wiley, Vol. 12, p 2434-2440 (2006).

However, when a moisturizing substance such as a water-soluble component present in the stratum corneum is applied to the skin, the action is on the skin stratum corneum and supplies water to the stratum corneum, and the effect is temporary. Yes, it did not fundamentally improve the water retention ability of the stratum corneum and essentially prevent or cure skin roughness.

In addition, when artificial intercellular lipids are applied to the skin, the water retention ability of the stratum corneum can be fundamentally improved, and some effects of preventing or healing the skin can be obtained, but the level is completely equal to that of the living body. It has not yet been reached, and it has not been satisfactory yet.

Therefore, the moisture retention ability of the stratum corneum is fundamentally improved, the rough stratum corneum can be functionally restored to a level equivalent to that of a healthy living body, and a skin cosmetic that imparts moisture feeling and flexibility to the skin. Development was desired.

In such a situation, the present inventors conducted intensive studies focusing on the interaction between the keratinocyte lipid molecules in order to solve the above-mentioned problems. As a result, biosurfactants, for example, the above-mentioned MEL and the copolymer described below, The present inventors have found that a skin cosmetic containing a combination of the above can solve the above-mentioned problems.

（Ｒ¹及びＲ²はそれぞれ炭素数１〜４のアルキル基を示し、Ｒ³は炭素数１〜４０の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状のアルキル基、アルケニル基又はフルオロアルキル基を示し、Ｒ⁴は炭素数７〜４０の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状のアルキル基、アルケニル基又はフルオロアルキル基を示し、ｌは２以上の数を示し、ｍは３以上の数を示し、更にｌ＋ｍ＝５〜６０００である）を有するオルガノポリシロキサン
（２）バイオサーファクタントが、マンノース骨格を有することを特徴とする（１）の皮膚化粧料。
（３）バイオサーファクタントが、マンノース骨格の１位の水酸基に糖アルコールがグリコシド結合していることを特徴とする（２）の皮膚化粧料。
（４）マンノース骨格を有するバイオサーファクタントがマンノシルエリスリトールリピッド（ＭＥＬ）、マンノシルマンニトールリピッド（ＭＭＬ）、マンノシルソルビトールリピッド（ＭＳＬ）、マンノシルアラビトールリピッド（ＭＡｒａＬ）及びマンノシルリビトールリピッド（ＭＲＬ）からなる群より選ばれた１種以上の化合物であることを特徴とする（２）または（３）の皮膚化粧料。
（５）ＭＥＬが、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドＡ（ＭＥＬ−Ａ）、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドＢ（ＭＥＬ−Ｂ）、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドＣ（ＭＥＬ−Ｃ）、マンノシルエリスリトールリピッドＤ（ＭＥＬ−Ｄ）、ＭＥＬ−Ａのトリアシル体、ＭＥＬ−Ｂのトリアシル体、ＭＥＬ−Ｃのトリアシル体及びＭＥＬ−Ｄのトリアシル体からなる群より選ばれた１種以上の化合物であることを特徴とする（４）の皮膚化粧料。
（６）バイオサーファクタントが、飽和脂肪酸及び／又は不飽和脂肪酸を含有していることを特徴とする（１）〜（５）のいずれかの皮膚化粧料。 That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
(1) A skin cosmetic comprising the following components (A) and (B):
(A) Biosurfactant (B) in the molecule

(R ¹ and R ² each represents an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ³ represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group, an alkenyl group or fluoroalkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R ⁴ Represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group, alkenyl group or fluoroalkyl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, 1 represents a number of 2 or more, m represents a number of 3 or more, and l + m = 5 to 5 (1) The skin cosmetic according to (1), wherein the organopolysiloxane (2) biosurfactant has a mannose skeleton.
(3) The skin cosmetic according to (2), wherein the biosurfactant has a sugar alcohol glycoside bonded to the hydroxyl group at the 1-position of the mannose skeleton.
(4) The biosurfactant having a mannose skeleton is selected from the group consisting of mannosyl erythritol lipid (MEL), mannosyl mannitol lipid (MML), mannosyl sorbitol lipid (MSL), mannosyl arabitol lipid (MAraL), and mannosyl ribitol lipid (MRL). The skin cosmetic according to (2) or (3), which is one or more selected compounds.
(5) MEL is mannosyl erythritol lipid A (MEL-A), mannosyl erythritol lipid B (MEL-B), mannosyl erythritol lipid C (MEL-C), mannosyl erythritol lipid D (MEL-D), or MEL-A. The skin cosmetic according to (4), which is one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of a triacyl body, a triacyl body of MEL-B, a triacyl body of MEL-C, and a triacyl body of MEL-D.
(6) The skin cosmetic according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the biosurfactant contains a saturated fatty acid and / or an unsaturated fatty acid.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the component (A) and the component (B), so that it has excellent moisturizing properties, no irritation or stickiness, and a good feeling of use, and the moisturizing components are washed away with sweat or water. Therefore, it is possible to exhibit an excellent improvement and prevention effect that it remains in the application site for a long time and the moisturizing effect is maintained.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention contains a biosurfactant, particularly MEL. Therefore, the skin cosmetic of the present invention has an effect of exhibiting excellent properties.

(Biosurfactant)
The component (A) biosurfactant is a generic name for substances having surface-active ability and emulsifying ability produced by living organisms, and not only exhibits excellent surface activity and high biodegradability, but also has various physiological functions. Therefore, there is a possibility of developing behavior / function different from the synthetic surfactant.

As the biosurfactant of component (A), mannosyl erythritol lipid (MEL), and as mannosyl alditol lipid (MAL) other than MEL, mannosyl mannitol lipid (MML), mannosyl sorbitol lipid (MSL), mannosyl arabitol lipid (MAraL) ), Mannosyl ribitol lipid (MRL), etc. Among them, it is preferable to use a biosurfactant that forms a lamellar structure or / and a vesicle, and MEL is particularly preferable.

(MEL)
The structure of MEL is shown in general formula (4). In the general formula (4), the substituent R1 is an aliphatic acyl group having 4 to 24 carbon atoms which may be the same or different. MEL is classified into four types, MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C, and MEL-D, based on the presence or absence of acetyl groups at the 4th and 6th positions of mannose.

Specifically, in MEL-A, in the general formula (4), the substituents R2 and R3 are both acetyl groups. In MEL-B, in the general formula (4), the substituent R2 is an acetyl group, and the substituent R3 is hydrogen. In MEL-C, in general formula (4), substituent R2 is hydrogen and substituent R3 is an acetyl group. In MEL-D, in general formula (4), substituents R2 and R3 are both hydrogen.

The carbon number of the substituent R1 in the above MEL-A to MEL-D is the carbon number of the fatty acid constituting the triglyceride that is an oil or fat to be contained in the MEL production medium, and the degree of utilization of the fatty acid of the MEL-producing bacterium to be used It depends on. In addition, when the triglyceride has an unsaturated fatty acid residue, it is possible to include an unsaturated fatty acid residue as the substituent R1 unless the MEL-producing bacterium assimilates up to the double bond portion of the unsaturated fatty acid. is there. As apparent from the above description, the obtained MEL is usually in the form of a mixture of compounds having different fatty acid residue portions of the substituent R1.

The composition of the present invention contains mannosyl erythritol lipid having the structure represented by the general formula (5) or the general formula (6). In the general formula (5), the substituent R1 is the same or different aliphatic acyl group having 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and the substituent R2 is the same or different hydrogen or acetyl group. The substituent R3 is hydrogen or an aliphatic acyl group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. In the general formula (6), the substituent R1 is an aliphatic acyl group having 4 to 24 carbon atoms which may be the same or different, and the substituent R2 is a hydrogen or acetyl group which may be the same or different. The substituent R3 is hydrogen or an aliphatic acyl group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

The substituent R1 in the general formula (5) and the general formula (6) is an aliphatic acyl group having 4 to 24 carbon atoms which may be the same or different. The number of carbon atoms of the substituent R1 is not particularly limited as long as it is within the above range, but it is more preferably 8 to 14.

In addition, the substituent R1 in the general formulas (5) and (6) may be a saturated aliphatic acyl group or an unsaturated aliphatic acyl group, and is not particularly limited. When it has an unsaturated bond, you may have a some double bond, for example. The carbon chain may be linear or branched. In the case of an oxygen atom-containing hydrocarbon group, the number and position of oxygen atoms contained are not particularly limited.

The structure of MAL (mannosylalditol lipid) other than MEL is shown in the general formula (7) (wherein the substituent R2 is hydrogen or acetyl group which may be the same or different). Mannitol, arabitol, ribitol, and sorbitol are added as sugar alcohols (alditol) other than erythritol (n = 4: mannitol, sorbitol, n = 2: arabitol, ribitol). According to the general formula (7), MAL is a saturated or unsaturated straight chain having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms at the 2nd and 3rd positions of mannose. Having an alkanoyl group having a chain or a branch (wherein the substituent R 2 is hydrogen or acetyl group which may be the same or different)

(In the formula, the substituents R1 may be the same or different and each has a saturated or unsaturated straight or branched chain having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms. (In the formula, the substituent R2 is a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group, which may be the same or different, and is preferably a compound in which both of the substituents R2 are acetyl groups.)

(Triacyl derivative)
The biosurfactant used in the present invention may be a MEL triacyl and a MAL triacyl other than MEL. The triacyl biosurfactant is a biosurfactant having higher hydrophobicity than MEL or MAL other than MEL. For example, it also exists in the culture solution of MEL-producing bacteria, and when it is obtained in a large amount, it can be produced by reacting MEL with various vegetable oils using enzymes.

The triacyl form of MEL, that is, triacyl mannosyl erythritol lipid (sometimes referred to as triacyl MEL), is that if substituents R1 and R3 are both aliphatic acyl groups in general formula (5) or general formula (6), Triacyl MEL, and the substituent R2 is hydrogen or acetyl group which may be the same or different. Similarly to MEL, triacyl MEL is classified into four types of triacyl MEL-A, triacyl MEL-B, triacyl MEL-C, and triacyl MEL-D based on the presence or absence of acetyl groups at the 4th and 6th positions of mannose.

Triacyl MEL exhibits different properties from diacyl MEL. Specifically, since it has high hydrophobicity, it is excellent as an emollient agent in that it can be easily adapted to various oil components as compared with conventional MEL.

The biosurfactant preferably used in the present invention is MEL-B having a structure represented by the general formula (8) or the general formula (9).

(In the general formula (8) and general formula (9), the substituent R1 is the same or different aliphatic acyl group having 4 to 24 carbon atoms)

In addition, although the said biosurfactant may be used independently, 2 or more types of biosurfactants can also be used together.

(Biosurfactant production method)
The method for producing the biosurfactant is not particularly limited, and a fermentation method using microorganisms may be arbitrarily selected. For example, culture production of MEL (MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C) can be produced by Pseudozyma antarctica (NBRC 1073) according to a conventional method, and Pseudozyma antarctica, Pseudozyma sp. it can. It is a well-known fact that an MEL mixture can be easily obtained with any microorganism. The MEL mixture can be purified using silica gel column chromatography to isolate MEL-A, MEL-B and MEL-C. Moreover, as bacteria which produce MEL-B, Pseudozyma antarctica and Pseudozyma tsukubaensis are known, and these bacteria may be used. Pseudozyma hubeiensis, Pseudozyma graminicola, etc. are known as bacteria that produce MEL-C, and these bacteria may be used. The microorganism having the ability to produce MEL is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately used depending on the purpose.

Fermentation medium for producing biosurfactant includes N sources such as yeast extract and peptone, C sources such as glucose, glycerol and fructose, and inorganic salts such as sodium nitrate, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and magnesium sulfate heptahydrate. A medium having a general composition can be used, and oil and fats such as olive oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, canola oil and coconut oil, and water-insoluble such as hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin and tetradecane can be used. Sexual substrates can be used alone or added with two or more.

Fermentation conditions such as pH and temperature, culture time, and the like can be arbitrarily set, and the culture solution after fermentation can be used as it is as the biosurfactant of the present invention. In addition, it is possible to appropriately add any operation such as filtration, centrifugation, extraction, purification, sterilization and the like to the culture solution after fermentation, and the obtained extract can be diluted, concentrated and dried. .

As oils and fats used as raw materials, vegetable oils and fats are preferable. Vegetable fats and oils are not particularly limited, and can be appropriately selected according to the purpose. For example, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, olive oil, palm oil, etc. Among them, soybean oil and olive oil are biosurfactants (especially MEL) production efficiency (production amount) , Production rate, and yield) are particularly preferable. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

There is no restriction | limiting in particular as an inorganic nitrogen source, Although it can select suitably according to the objective, For example, ammonium nitrate, urea, sodium nitrate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, etc. are mentioned.

There are no particular limitations on the method for recovering and purifying the biosurfactant, and it can be appropriately selected according to the purpose. For example, it can be recovered by centrifuging the culture solution to recover the oil, and extracting and concentrating with an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate.

Examples of the extraction solvent include water, alcohols (for example, lower alcohols such as methanol, absolute ethanol, and ethanol, or polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol), ketones such as acetone, diethyl ether, and dioxane. , Esters such as acetonitrile and ethyl acetate, and organic solvents such as xylene, benzene, and chloroform can be used alone or in any combination of two or more kinds, and each solvent extract is combined. Can also be used.

There are no particular limitations on the extraction method, but usually it may be in the range of the boiling point of the solvent from room temperature to normal pressure. After extraction, it is filtered or adsorbed, decolored and purified using an ion exchange resin to form a solution. , Paste, gel, and powder. In many cases, it can be used as it is, but if necessary, further purification treatment such as deodorization and decolorization may be added as long as the effect is not affected. As a purification treatment means such as deodorization and decolorization, an activated carbon column or the like may be used, and a normal means generally applied depending on the extracted substance may be arbitrarily selected. If necessary, a high-purity biosurfactant can be obtained by purification using a silica gel column.

(Triacyl production method)
A method for obtaining a biosurfactant triacyl form will be described by taking a method for producing a MEL triacyl form as an example, but the biosurfactant triacyl form used in the present invention is not limited to a triacyl MEL.

For example, in order to obtain a triacyl MEL, a triacyl MEL fraction can be purified from a culture solution produced by fermenting a microorganism as described above. In order to obtain a large amount, MEL is dissolved in an organic solvent, a fatty acid derivative such as vegetable oil is added, and esterification or transesterification is performed in the presence of a hydrolase.

The fatty acid introduced into the erythritol part of MEL may be a long-chain hydrocarbon monovalent carboxylic acid. Further, it may be a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid. In the case of an unsaturated fatty acid, it may have a plurality of double bonds. The carbon chain may be linear or branched. Furthermore, a fatty acid derivative that is a derivative of a fatty acid may be used in the present invention, or a mixture of a fatty acid and a fatty acid derivative may be used in the present invention. The fatty acid or fatty acid derivative introduced into the erythritol part of MEL is preferably derived from oils, higher fatty acids, and synthetic esters.

The “oils” may be vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil, and hardened oil thereof. Specifically, avocado oil, olive oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, turtle oil, macadamian nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil , Flaxseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, kiri oil, jojoba oil, cacao butter, palm oil, horse oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil Animal and vegetable oils such as beef tallow, sheep fat, pork tallow, lanolin, whale wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, molasses, candelilla wax, squalane, and hardened oils thereof. Examples thereof include mineral oil such as liquid paraffin and petrolatum, and synthetic triglycerin such as glycerin tripalmitate. Preferably avocado oil, olive oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, southern oil, castor oil, flaxseed oil , Safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, and more preferably olive oil and soybean oil.

Examples of the “higher fatty acid” include caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid, Examples include undecic acid, tolic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, and docosahexaenoic acid. Preferred are lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, stearic acid and undecylenic acid, and more preferred are oleic acid, linoleic acid and undecylenic acid.

Examples of the “synthetic ester” include methyl caproate, methyl caprylate, methyl caprate, methyl laurate, methyl myristate, methyl palmitate, methyl oleate, methyl linoleate, methyl linolenate, methyl stearate, undecine. Methyl acid, ethyl caproate, ethyl caprylate, ethyl caprate, ethyl laurate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, ethyl oleate, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, ethyl undecinate, vinyl caproate , Vinyl caprylate, vinyl caprate, vinyl laurate, vinyl myristate, vinyl palmitate, vinyl oleate, vinyl linoleate, vinyl linolenate, vinyl stearate, vinyl undecinate, cetyl octanoate , Octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, Oren'i acid decyl dimethyl octanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, and the like. Preferred are methyl laurate, methyl myristate, methyl palmitate, methyl oleate, methyl linoleate, methyl linolenate, methyl stearate, methyl undecylate, more preferably methyl oleate, methyl linoleate, and methyl undecylate. .

Triacyl MEL can be produced by dissolving MEL in an organic solvent and reacting as described above. The organic solvent is not limited as long as it can solubilize MEL. What is necessary is just to be able to solubilize a part even if not all can be solubilized. The organic solvent may be a mixture of a plurality of organic solvents. Specifically, for example, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, acetone, propanone, butanone, pentan-2-one, 1,2-ethanediol, 2,3-butanediol, dioxane, acetonitrile, 2-methyl-butane -2-ol, tertiary butanol, 2-methylpropanol, 4-hydroxy-2-methylpentanone, tetrahydrofuran, hexane, DMF, DMSO, pyridine, methyl ethyl ketone and the like. Acetone, tetrahydrofuran, tertiary butanol, acetonitrile and dioxane are preferable, and acetone is more preferable.

Examples of hydrolases include lipases, proteases, and esterases. It is preferable to use at least one selected from these, and a plurality of hydrolases may be used. Lipase and esterase are preferable, and lipase is more preferable.

Specifically, for example, MEL purified from the culture solution of MEL-producing microorganisms is dissolved in an organic solvent (for example, acetone), and commercially available lipase (for example, Novozyme 435 (manufactured by Novozymes) etc.) and vegetable oils and fats are dissolved therein. Added.

In the case of this production method, the reaction temperature is 10 to 100 ° C., preferably 20 to 50 ° C., more preferably 25 to 40 ° C., and stirring may be performed for 1 to 7 days. Further, molecular sieves may be added to the reaction solution. By this manufacturing method, MEL added as a material becomes a triacyl body almost quantitatively.

The purification of triacyl MEL can be performed according to the above-described purification of MEL.

(Method for producing MEL having saturated fatty acid side chain)
MEL having a saturated side chain can be produced in accordance with the above-described method for producing biosurfactant. At that time, as the fats and oils used as a raw material, it is carried out by adding one or more water-insoluble substrates such as olive oil, saturated fatty acids or esters thereof, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin and tetradecane.
The MEL having a saturated side chain can be purified according to the above-described MEL purification.

(Manufacturing method of MAL such as MML)
The production of MAL having alditol other than erythritol, such as MML, can be carried out according to the above-described method for producing biosurfactant. In that case, as a raw material, it carries out by adding alditol, such as mannitol, arabitol, ribitol, sorbitol, alone or in combination.
Purification of MAL having an alditol other than erythritol such as MML can be performed according to the above-described purification of MEL.

The biosurfactant of component (A) may be used in combination of one or more of the biosurfactants described above, and the content thereof is preferably 0.001 to 20% by weight in the skin cosmetic, 0.15 to 5% by weight, particularly 0.2 to 3% by weight is preferred.

In the present invention, the organopolysiloxane of the component (B) has an effect of maintaining the moisturizing action of the biosurfactant of the component (A), and has an effect of improving the feeling of use such as stickiness and skin feel after washing. It is what you have.

The organopolysiloxane of component (B) used in the present invention has at least 3 hydrocarbon groups having 7 to 40 carbon atoms in one molecule. The molecular form of the organopolysiloxane may be linear, branched or cyclic.

Examples of the alkyl group represented by R ¹ and R ² of the organopolysiloxane (B) include a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an isopropyl group, and an n-butyl group. preferable. The alkyl, alkenyl or fluoroalkyl group represented by R ³ and R ⁴ may be linear, branched or cyclic, but R ³ is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. R ⁴ is preferably an alkyl group, alkenyl group or fluoroalkyl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms (more preferably 12 to 22 and particularly preferably 16 to 18). Specific examples of R ⁴ include octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, heneicosyl, docosyl, tetracosyl, pentacosyl, hexacosyl, heptacosyl, octacosyl, triaconyl, tetra Triacontyl, octatriacontyl, tetracontyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-undecylpentadecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-decylpentadecyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-undecyltetra Examples include decyl, methyl branched isostearyl, methyl branched dodecyl (propylene tetramer), and methyl branched nonyl (propylene trimer) groups. Moreover, although l + m is 5-6000, it is preferable that it is 200-3000, Furthermore, it is preferable that l + m is 300-1500 with l = m = 150-750. Here, l and m are obtained as the average degree of polymerization calculated from the weight average molecular weight.

The organopolysiloxane (B) preferably has a melting point of 10 to 50 ° C, particularly 20 to 40 ° C. The melting point of the organopolysiloxane was measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a structure having both the polysiloxane units at any position in the molecule, but from the viewpoint of ease of production, one block of both units is directly It is preferably a simple structure in which both terminal residues are bonded to each other. Further, it is preferable that the both-terminal residues -OSiR ⁷ R ⁸ R ⁹ in which (R ⁷ to R ⁹ is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) is.

Specific examples of the organopolysiloxane (B) include those represented by the following general formula (10).

XF42-A7154, XF42-A5048, XF42-A5047 [manufactured by Toshiba Silicone Co., Ltd.] or the like can be used as a commercial product of organopolysiloxane (B).

These organopolysiloxanes (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more. The amount of the organopolysiloxane (B) to be added to the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention varies depending on the amount of the amphiphilic lipid (A), but is usually 0. It is desirable that the content be 01% to 40.0%, particularly 2 to 20%.

The skin cosmetics of the present invention are roughly classified into medicinal skin cosmetics and cosmetics in their usage forms.

Examples of medicinal skin cosmetics include various ointments containing medicinal ingredients. The ointment may be one based on an oily base, or one based on an oil / water or water / oil type emulsion base. The oil base is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, fatty acids, natural or synthetic glycerides, and the like. The medicinal component is not particularly limited, and for example, an analgesic / anti-inflammatory agent, an antipruritic agent, a bactericidal / disinfectant, an astringent, an emollient, a hormonal agent and the like can be used as needed.

In the skin cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, salts, oils, emulsifiers, powders, UV scattering agents, pH adjusters, thickeners, pigments, preservatives, antioxidants that are usually used in cosmetics , UV absorbers, fragrances, chelating agents, astringents, bactericides, activators and other medicinal agents, and water-soluble solvents such as ethanol and glycerin can be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Furthermore, the skin cosmetics of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method, and the dosage forms include those of any dosage form such as an emulsified type, a dispersed type, a two-layer type, and a solubilized type.

As cosmetics, various forms such as water / oil, oil / water emulsified cosmetics, creams, cosmetic emulsions, skin lotions, oily cosmetics, lipsticks, foundations, skin cleansers, hair tonics, hair styling agents, hair nourishing agents, It can be used as a skin cosmetic such as a hair restorer.

Although the details of the action mechanism of the mixture of the component (A) and the component (B) in the skin cosmetics of the present invention have not been completely elucidated, this constructs a lipid bilayer with water between the corneocytes, It is considered that the water retention function is exhibited.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples. The present invention is not particularly limited to the examples.

(Production of MEL-A and triacyl MEL-A)
Inoculum culture was carried out by inoculating a seed medium (20 ml / 500 ml Sakaguchi flask) with 1 loop of Pseudozyma antarctica NBRC 10736 colonies. Cultured overnight at 30 ° C. The obtained culture broth was used as an inoculum. The seed medium composition was 4% Glucose, 0.3% NaNO ₃ , 0.02% MgSO ₄ .7H ₂ O, 0.02% KH ₂ PO ₄ , 0.1% yeast extract. The culture was performed by inoculating 75 ml of the above inoculum into 1.5 L (5 L-jar) of the production medium and using 5 L-jar under the conditions of 30 ° C., 300 rpm (stirring rotation), and 0.5 L / min (Air). The composition of the production medium was 3% soybean oil, 0.02% MgSO ₄ .7H ₂ O, 0.02% KH ₂ PO ₄ , 0.1% yeast extract. 250 ml of the culture solution was centrifuged (6500 rpm, 30 min), the supernatant was removed, and the precipitate (bacteria) was collected. 50 ml of ethyl acetate was added to the precipitate, and after sufficient stirring, the mixture was centrifuged (8500 rpm, 30 min), divided into a precipitate and a supernatant, and the supernatant was concentrated with an evaporator. Using silica gel, eluting with chloroform: acetone = 1: 0, chloroform: acetone = 9: 1, chloroform: acetone 1: 1, chloroform: acetone = 3: 7, chloroform: acetone = 0: 1, and MEL-A and A triacyl MEL-A fraction was obtained.

(Production of MEL-B and triacyl MEL-B)
0.2 ml of Pseudozyma tsukubaensis frozen stock was inoculated into a 20 ml YM medium / 500 ml Sakaguchi flask and cultured overnight at 26 ° C., 180 rpm, and used as an inoculum. 0.2 ml of the inoculum was again inoculated into a 20 ml YM seed medium / 500 ml Sakaguchi flask and cultured overnight at 26 ° C., 180 rpm, and used as an inoculum. 20 ml of the inoculum was inoculated into 2 L of YM medium / 5 L Jar and cultured at 26 ° C. and 300 rpm (1/4 VVM, 0.5 L air / min) for 8 days. The culture solution was centrifuged at 7,900 rpm for 60 min at 4 ° C. to separate the cells (including MEL-B) and the supernatant. 80 ml of ethyl acetate was added to each of the bacterial cell fractions, stirred up and down so that the bacterial cells were sufficiently suspended, and then centrifuged at 7,900 rpm for 30 minutes at 4 ° C. An equal amount of saturated saline was added to the obtained supernatant and stirred to obtain an ethyl acetate layer. An appropriate amount of anhydrous sodium sulfate was added to the ethyl acetate layer, and the mixture was allowed to settle for 30 minutes and then evaporated to obtain a crude MEL-B product. The obtained MEL-B crude purified product was eluted with hexane: acetone = 5: 1 and hexane: acetone = 1: 1 using a silica gel column to obtain MEL-B and triacyl MEL-B fraction purified products. .

(Production of MEL-C and triacyl MEL-C)
0.2 ml of Pseudozyma hubeiensis frozen stock was inoculated into a 20 ml YM seed medium / 500 ml Sakaguchi flask and cultured overnight at 26 ° C., 180 rpm, and used as a seed seed. 0.2 ml of the inoculum was again inoculated into a 20 ml YM seed medium / 500 ml Sakaguchi flask and cultured overnight at 26 ° C., 180 rpm, and used as an inoculum. 20 ml of the inoculum was inoculated into 2 L of YM medium / 5 L Jar and cultured at 26 ° C. and 300 rpm (1/4 VVM, 0.5 L air / min) for 8 days. The culture solution was centrifuged at 7,900 rpm for 60 minutes at 4 ° C. to separate the cells (including MEL-C) and the supernatant. 80 ml of ethyl acetate was added to each of the bacterial cell fractions, stirred up and down so that the bacterial cells were sufficiently suspended, and then centrifuged at 7,900 rpm for 30 minutes at 4 ° C. An equal amount of saturated saline was added to the obtained supernatant and stirred to obtain an ethyl acetate layer. An appropriate amount of anhydrous sodium sulfate was added to the ethyl acetate layer, and the mixture was allowed to settle for 30 minutes and then evaporated to obtain a crude MEL-B product. The obtained MEL-C crude product was eluted using a silica gel column with heptane: ethyl acetate = 1: 1, heptane: ethyl acetate = 1: 2, heptane: ethyl acetate = 1: 3, and MEL-C and A triacyl MEL-C fraction purified product was obtained.

(Manufacture of MEL using olive oil)
In the production of MEL in Example 1, soybean oil was used as a raw material for production, but instead, olive oil was used and cultured in the same manner as in Example 1 to isolate MEL-A, MEL-B, and MEL-C. Purify. The MEL fraction obtained at this time is referred to as MEL-A (OL), MEL-B (OL), and MEL-C (OL) to distinguish them from the MEL of Example 1.

(Manufacturing Mannosyl Mannitol Lipid (MML))
Pseudozyma parantarctica JCM 11752 strain was cultured. That is, Pseudozyma parantarctica JCM 11752 stored in a preservation medium (malt extract 3 g / L, yeast extract 3 g / L, peptone 5 g / L, glucose 10 g / L, agar 30 g / L). A test tube containing 2 mL of liquid medium having a composition of glucose 20 g / L, yeast extract 1 g / L, sodium nitrate 3 g / L, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.3 g / L, and magnesium sulfate 0.3 g / L 1 platinum ear was inoculated and shake-cultured at 30 ° C. for 1 day. Subsequently, the obtained cell culture broth was mixed with olive oil 50 g / L as a vegetable oil, mannitol 100 g / L as a sugar alcohol, yeast extract 1 g / L, sodium nitrate 3 g / L, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.3 g / Inoculated into a Sakaguchi flask containing 30 mL of a liquid medium having a composition of L and magnesium sulfate 0.3 g / L, and cultured at 34 ° C. for 7 days. Collect the above culture broth, extract mannosyl alditol lipids in the culture broth with ethyl acetate, purify by silica gel chromatography, analyze the structure of the product with ¹³ C-NMR and ¹ H-NMR, and confirm the structure did.

(Production of mannosyl arabitol lipid (MAraL))
MAraL was produced by culturing in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the culture of Example 5 was performed in a medium containing 100 g / L of arabitol as a sugar alcohol.

(Production of mannosyl sorbitol lipid (MSL))
MSL was produced by culturing in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the culture of Example 5 was carried out in a medium containing 100 g / L of sorbitol as a sugar alcohol.

(Production of mannosyl ribitol lipid (MRL))
MRL was produced by culturing in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the culture of Example 5 was performed in a medium containing 100 g / L of ribitol as a sugar alcohol.

(Preparation of skin cosmetics)
While stirring and dissolving all the components except the purified water and the water-soluble solvent among the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 7 at 70 to 80 ° C., the purified water and the water-soluble solvent at 70 to 80 ° C. are added with stirring and the stirring is continued. Each cream was obtained by cooling. The obtained cream was subjected to a practical test and a skin moisturizing effect test based on the following test methods.

(Panel test)
Ten female panelists used it on the skin after washing, and the usability was evaluated according to the following criteria. The evaluation items are two items, that is, less stickiness at the time of application and moist feeling of the hand skin after washing with soap. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1 to 4 according to the following four-stage criteria.
A: Nine or more out of 10 respondents answered good.
○: Six to eight out of 10 respondents answered good.
Δ: 3 to 5 of 10 respondents answered good.
X: Less than 3 out of 10 respondents answered good.

(Skin moisturizing effect test)
A glass cup (inner diameter 2 cm) containing acetone / ether (volume ratio 1: 1) was attached to the inner side of the human forearm, and degreasing treatment was performed for 10 minutes to induce rough skin. Five types of samples shown in Table 1 were uniformly applied (20 μl / 3.14 cm ² ) to the rough skin and dried for 10 minutes. The skin conductance was measured immediately after drying and after holding for 24 hours at 20 ° C. and 40% RH, and the water retention ability was evaluated. The higher the skin conductance value, the higher the water retention amount, and the higher the moisturizing effect. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1 to 4 according to the following three-stage criteria.
○: Same or better than skin conductance value of healthy skin.
Δ: Slightly lower than the skin surface conductance value of healthy skin.
X: Remarkably lower than the skin surface conductance value of healthy skin.

1): Octadecyl-modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 750, m = 750, R ⁴ = C ₁₈ H ₃₇ ]
2): Octadecyl-modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 500, m = 500, R ⁴ = C ₁₈ H ₃₇ ]
3): Octadecyl-modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 50, m = 50, R ⁴ = C ₁₈ H ₃₇ ]
4): Hexadecyl modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 500, m = 500, R ⁴ = C ₁₆ H ₃₃ ]
5): Hexadecyl modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 75, m = 75, R ⁴ = C ₁₆ H ₃₃ ]
6): Octyl-modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 750, m = 750, R ⁴ = C ₈ H ₁₇ ]
7): Docosyl-modified silicone [in formula (10), l = 500, m = 500, R ⁴ = C ₂₂ H ₄₅ ]
8): Dimethylsiloxane / methyl (polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene) siloxane copolymer (BY-22-012 manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Silicone)

As is apparent from Tables 1 to 7, it can be seen that the skin cosmetic of the present invention has a better feeling of use than the comparative product and is excellent in the sustainability of the moisturizing effect.

(Preparation of emulsion)
An emulsion was prepared by blending according to the composition shown in Table 8. (1) to (6) are mixed, dissolved by heating and kept at 70 ° C. to obtain an oil phase part. Separately, (7) to (9) are dissolved by heating and kept at 70 ° C. to form an aqueous phase. An oil phase part is added to this water phase part, and it fully emulsifies with an emulsifier. After emulsification, the product was cooled to a product while stirring.

This milky lotion had a refreshing use feeling.

(essence)
The essence was prepared by blending according to the composition shown in Table 9. (1) to (11) were dissolved by heating at 70 ° C. This essence had a refreshing and moist feeling.

(Nutrition cream)
A nutritional cream was prepared by blending according to the composition shown in Table 10. (1) to (7) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C. to obtain an oil phase part. Separately, (8) to (10) are dissolved by heating and kept at 70 ° C. to form an aqueous phase. The oil phase part was added to this water phase part and fully emulsified from an emulsifier. Cooling while stirring after emulsification to make the product. This cream was not sticky and had a moist feel.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in moisturizing properties, has no irritation and stickiness, has a good feeling of use, and moisturizing components remain in the application site for a long time without being swept away by sweat or water, so that the moisturizing effect is maintained. Therefore, it is expected to make a significant contribution, especially in the industry related to pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Claims (6)

A skin cosmetic comprising the following components (A) and (B):
(A) Biosurfactant (B) in the molecule

(R ¹ and R ² each represents an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ³ represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group, an alkenyl group or fluoroalkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R ⁴ Represents a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group, alkenyl group or fluoroalkyl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, 1 represents a number of 2 or more, m represents a number of 3 or more, and l + m = 5 to 5 6000)) The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the biosurfactant has a mannose skeleton. The skin cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the biosurfactant has a sugar alcohol linked to a glycoside bond to the hydroxyl group at the 1-position of the mannose skeleton. The biosurfactant having a mannose skeleton was selected from the group consisting of mannosyl erythritol lipid (MEL), mannosyl mannitol lipid (MML), mannosyl sorbitol lipid (MSL), mannosyl arabitol lipid (MAraL) and mannosyl ribitol lipid (MRL). The skin cosmetic according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the skin cosmetic is one or more compounds. MEL is mannosyl erythritol lipid A (MEL-A), mannosyl erythritol lipid B (MEL-B), mannosyl erythritol lipid C (MEL-C), mannosyl erythritol lipid D (MEL-D), a triacyl derivative of MEL-A, The skin cosmetic according to claim 4, wherein the skin cosmetic is one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of a triacyl form of MEL-B, a triacyl form of MEL-C, and a triacyl form of MEL-D. The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the biosurfactant contains a saturated fatty acid and / or an unsaturated fatty acid.