JP2011122266A - Fused blended yarn and method for producing woven or knitted fabric by using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a new blended yarn capable of imparting a grandrelle appearance rich in natural feeling to a woven or knitted fabric by maintaining the good blended state through a weaving or knitting process. <P>SOLUTION: The fused blended yarn is constituted of a plurality of fiber groups having different numbers of single filaments, and has 40-100 pieces/m of interlaced fiber-blended parts in the longitudinal direction, wherein the fiber-blended parts are integrated through fused components. The method for producing the woven or knitted fabric includes carrying out the weaving or knitting by using the fused blended yarn, and subjecting the resultant yarn to alkali reduction and dyeing to allow the yarn to exhibit the grandrelle appearance. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a fused blended yarn and a method for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric rich in a wrinkle appearance using the same.

  A technique for expressing a wrinkle appearance on a woven or knitted fabric using a yarn in which two types of yarns having different dyeing properties are mixed has been known for a long time.

  For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a mixed yarn of a side-by-side type polyester composite fiber and a polyamide fiber. According to this document, it is described that by using this mixed fiber, excellent stretchability can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric together with the heel appearance. Patent Document 2 discloses a mixed yarn in which two polyester yarns, one of which is chic and thin yarn and having different dyeing properties, are combined. According to this document, by using this mixed fiber, it is described that a unique spanization feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric together with the heel appearance.

JP 2008-285786 A JP 2004-285501 A

  As is clear from the above literature, it has been practiced for a long time to give a predetermined texture and texture to the woven or knitted fabric together with the appearance of the collar. In this case, if a specific yarn is used as a part of the constituent yarn, a desired texture and texture can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, which is very interesting.

  Needless to say, the appearance, texture, and texture of the cocoon are expressed in the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, it is not sufficient to collect a predetermined yarn, and it is necessary to go through a weaving and knitting process. In the weaving and knitting process, there are many processes such as winding and drawing out the yarn, and the yarn passes through the guide several times. Therefore, the yarn is subjected to friction each time. Then, in the case of the mixed yarn described in Patent Literatures 1 and 2, the portion (mixed portion) where the fibers are strongly entangled is unwound (opened).

  When the mixed fiber portion is opened, not only a desired cocoon appearance but also a desired texture and texture cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. In other words, if the mixed fiber state is properly maintained, the woven or knitted fabric exhibits a cocoon appearance with a relatively short pitch, but when the mixed fiber portion is opened, the cocoon appearance becomes a so-called flow cocoon with a long pitch, The commercial value of woven and knitted fabrics is greatly reduced. On the other hand, the texture and texture of the woven or knitted fabric is largely derived from the overall structure of the blended yarn, so that if the mixed fiber state is not properly maintained, the desired texture and texture can no longer be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. .

  In order to improve such a point, it is considered that the mixed state of the mixed yarn can be properly maintained by appropriately adjusting the tension of the yarn in the weaving and knitting process. However, adopting this means is not preferable from the viewpoint of smoothly proceeding the process at low cost because it involves new equipment investment accompanying tension management and new labor accompanying tension adjustment.

  Moreover, if the mixed fiber state is made stronger, it is considered that the fiber opening can be suppressed. However, the stronger the fiber mix, the more the effect of the fiber mix affects other parts, and the fibers tend to adhere, so the knitted or knitted fabric loses its swell and soft feeling. That is, when the fibers are brought into close contact with each other, it is difficult to trap air in the woven or knitted fabric, and as a result, the feeling of swelling and softness of the woven or knitted fabric tends to be lost, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of texture.

  The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the prior art as described above, and is a novel mixed fiber that can give a woven and knitted fabric a natural-looking wrinkle appearance by maintaining a good mixed fiber state throughout the weaving and knitting process. Providing yarn is a technical challenge.

  As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the inventors of the present invention have made it possible to integrate the mixed fiber portion of the yarn using a fusion component, even if the yarn is passed through a guide or the like. The present inventors have found that the state can be maintained satisfactorily, whereby the woven or knitted fabric can be given a natural-looking wrinkle appearance, and the present invention has been achieved.

  That is, the first invention is a mixed yarn composed of a plurality of fiber groups having different numbers of single yarn filaments and having 40 to 100 interlaced mixed fibers / m in the longitudinal direction, and the mixed fibers are fused. The gist of the present invention is a fused mixed yarn characterized by being integrated through components.

  The second aspect of the invention is a method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric characterized in that after weaving and knitting using the above-mentioned fused mixed yarn, the appearance of a cocoon is developed by reducing the amount of alkali and dyeing it. Is.

  According to the present invention, the mixed fiber portion in the mixed yarn is firmly integrated, whereby the mixed fiber portion can be protected from the friction accompanying the passage of the mixed yarn through the guide, and the mixed fiber portion is opened. Can be greatly suppressed. Thereby, by using the mixed fiber of the present invention, it is possible to give the woven or knitted fabric a natural-looking wrinkle appearance, and as a result, the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric can be greatly enhanced.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  The present invention is directed to so-called interlaced mixed yarn. In interlaced mixed yarn, there are generally mixed parts with strong fibers (sometimes called mixed fibers) and weak parts. In weakly mixed parts, fibers vary depending on the manufacturing conditions. Generally tends to open. The present invention utilizes the characteristics of such an interlaced mixed yarn, and constitutes a mixed yarn from a plurality of fiber groups, whereby each fiber group has a form close to a fiber bundle at a weakly mixed portion. Exist. At this time, if there is a difference in the structure of each fiber bundle, when it becomes a woven or knitted fabric, the part can be visually recognized in a streak shape. The present invention makes use of this point to produce a difference in gloss and color difference in each fiber bundle by varying the number of single yarn filaments in each fiber group, thereby imparting a wrinkle appearance to the woven or knitted fabric.

  As the number of single yarn filaments in each fiber group, for example, when two fiber groups are used, it is preferable that the ratio of the number of both filaments is 1.5 times the other.

  In the present invention, the combination of each fiber group can be freely selected, and there is no particular limitation as long as the number of fiber groups is plural. That is, it may be appropriately selected from fibers used for general clothing according to the purpose. However, if each group of fibers is made of the same material, depending on the color of the knitted or knitted fabric, it may be difficult to visually recognize the wrinkle appearance. Therefore, a combination of different fiber materials is preferably selected.

  For example, when two fiber groups are used as the fiber group, preferred material combinations include polyester / nylon, polyester / rayon, polyester / cotton, and the like. In particular, it is preferable to use a combination of polyester / rayon because a moderate drape feeling can be given to the woven or knitted fabric.

  It is also useful for visually recognizing the wrinkle appearance on the woven or knitted fabric to make the single yarn fineness of each fiber group different from each other. For example, when two fiber groups are used, the single yarn fineness ratio of the two is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 5. As the single yarn fineness difference increases, the difference in gloss and color between the two becomes remarkable. Therefore, it is preferable to increase the single yarn fineness difference between the two fiber groups in order to obtain a clear wrinkle appearance. However, if the single yarn fineness difference is excessively large, a difference that cannot be ignored is likely to occur in both yarn physical properties. For this reason, the ratio in the above range is preferable from the viewpoint of achieving these harmony.

  As described above, the blended yarn of the present invention belongs to the category of interlaced blended yarn. Therefore, as a matter of course, an interlace mixed fiber portion is provided in the longitudinal direction. Here, the number of interlace mixed portions needs to be 40 to 100 / m. This is because by setting the number of mixed fiber portions within a predetermined range, it is possible to realize a natural-looking wrinkle appearance on the woven or knitted fabric, and when the number of mixed fiber portions falls below the range, the wrinkled appearance flows. On the other hand, when it exceeds, the mesh becomes excessively fine, and in any case, the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric is lowered.

The number of the mixed fiber portions can be set within a predetermined range, for example, by setting the air pressure of the nozzle within a predetermined range according to the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing. A commercially available fiber nozzle is generally used for fiber mixing. The mixing conditions vary somewhat depending on the type of nozzle. However, when the yarn speed is 50 to 300 m / min, the air pressure is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 kg / cm ² , and 1.0 to ² 0.5 kg / cm ² is more preferable. When the yarn speed is 300 to 1000 m / min, the air pressure is preferably 1.0 to 6.0 kg / cm ² , and more preferably 2.0 to 5.0.

  The blended yarn of the present invention can give the woven or knitted fabric a wrinkled appearance rich in natural feeling. In order to realize this, it is necessary that the mixed fiber state is maintained well even if the mixed fiber passes through the guide or the like in the weaving and knitting process. That is, it is necessary to suppress the opening of the blended portion in the blended yarn, and when the blended portion is opened, the wrinkled appearance of the woven or knitted fabric becomes a long pitch wrinkle.

  Therefore, in the present invention, it is necessary to integrate the blended portion in the blended yarn. By carrying out like this, a mixed fiber part can be protected from the friction accompanying the guide passage of mixed fiber, and the fiber opening of a mixed fiber part can be suppressed significantly.

  Specifically, the mixed fiber portion is integrated through the fusion component. There is no particular limitation on the means for providing the fusion component in the blended yarn. For example, it is possible to unify the blended portion by applying a fusion component to the blended portion immediately after blending, but it is inefficient in manufacturing, and therefore preferably has a thermal adhesive property having the fused component. Use fiber.

  As the heat-adhesive fiber, for example, an all-fiber type in which the entire fiber is composed of a fusion component, or a core-sheath type in which the cross-section forms a core-sheath structure and the fusion component is arranged in the sheath portion can be used. . In this case, in consideration of the fact that the mixed yarn of the present invention is composed of a plurality of fiber groups, when using the all-melt type, a plurality of fiber groups and a yarn (heat It is preferable to mix the adhesive yarn) at the same time. On the other hand, when using the core-sheath type, it is preferable to mix the fiber group and the heat-bondable yarn at the same time, but it is not always necessary to prepare a plurality of fiber groups. This is because the core portions remaining after the sheath portion of the heat-adhesive fiber is melted together constitute one fiber group. That is, when the heat-adhesive fiber is a fully fused type, it is sufficient to mix three or more persons including the heat-adhesive yarn, and when the core-sheath type is used, it may be mixed two or more persons including the heat-adhesive thread.

  Although it does not specifically limit as a composition of the melt | fusion component in this invention, Copolymer polyester is preferable from a viewpoint which can remove a melt | fusion component efficiently through post-processing of a woven / knitted fabric. Specifically, it is preferably a copolyester containing a terephthalic acid component and an ethylene glycol component and copolymerizing at least one of a 1,4-butanediol component, an aliphatic lactone component and an adipic acid component. In particular, a copolyester comprising a terephthalic acid component, an aliphatic lactone component, an ethylene glycol component and a 1,4-butanediol component has a relatively high crystallization speed, and has become a fused mixed yarn as well as during spinning. It can also be said that it is preferable from the viewpoint that the subsequent mixed yarn can be efficiently cooled. The aliphatic lactone component is preferably a lactone having 4 to 11 carbon atoms, and a particularly preferred lactone is ε-caprolactone.

  As physical properties of the copolymerized polyester, it is preferable that the melting point is 130 to 200 ° C, the glass transition point is 20 to 80 ° C, and the crystal start temperature is 90 to 130 ° C.

  And when arranging the said copolyester as a fusion | melting component in the sheath part of a core-sheath-type thermoadhesive fiber, it is preferable to use polyester whose melting | fusing point is 30 degreeC or more higher than the copolyester for a core part. In addition to this requirement, it is more preferable to use a polyester having a melting point in the range of 220 to 280 ° C. Specifically, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the like are preferable as the polyester, and these are used alone or in combination. These polyesters may contain a copolymer component as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. As copolymerization components, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, phthalic anhydride, naphthalene carboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, pyromellitic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid Acid, e-caprolactone, phosphoric acid, glycerin, diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, trimethylpropane, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxy ) Phenyl} propane.

  Furthermore, in the case of a core-sheath type thermoadhesive fiber, the core-sheath mass ratio (core: sheath) is preferably 40:60 to 70:30. When the ratio of the core part is less than 40%, after melting the sheath part, the single yarn fineness of the fiber group composed of the remaining core part becomes thin, and the tension waist of the woven or knitted fabric tends to be reduced, If it exceeds 70%, it is difficult to integrate the mixed fiber portion as a result of a decrease in the fusion component, and therefore neither is preferable.

  The yarn form and the fiber cross-sectional shape of the heat-adhesive fiber are not particularly limited, regardless of the type of fiber, that is, the total melt type or the core-sheath type. In this case, as the yarn form, any form such as multifilament or monofilament can be adopted, and any shape such as round, triangular, cross, etc. can be adopted as the cross section of the single fiber. The single yarn fineness is preferably 1.1 to 167 dtex, and it is particularly preferable to select a multifilament when the single yarn fineness is relatively small and a monofilament when the single yarn fineness is relatively large.

  As described above, in the present invention, the blended portions in the blended yarn are integrated via the fusion component. Although it is not always necessary to integrate the weakly mixed portions, it is preferable to integrate them in the same manner in consideration of process passability in weaving and knitting.

  In addition, as described above, means such as optimization of tension and reinforcement of fiber mixing are also effective if the opening of the fiber mixing part is simply suppressed. However, if the mixed fiber portion is integrated only with these, a problem that cannot be ignored arises. Therefore, in the present invention, the fiber mixture portion is integrated using a fusion component. However, it should be noted that the present invention does not exclude the optimization of tension and the strengthening of mixed fibers. In other words, in the present invention, these are simply not adopted as the main means for suppressing the spread, and if the mixed fiber part is integrated using the fusion component, these means are not adopted at all. Of course, it is not a hindrance.

  Here, the adhesive strength of the integrated mixed fiber portion will be described. In the present invention, the magnitude of the adhesive strength is determined by quantitatively expressing how much the mixed fiber is unwound when the mixed fiber is stretched at a constant rate. In general, when the interlaced mixed yarn is stretched quickly, the mixed fiber may be unwound by the splash, and the present invention uses this point to estimate the adhesive strength of the mixed fiber portion.

  Specifically, the sample is stretched at a constant speed at a pulling speed of 200 mm / min, and the opened state is observed in a deweighted state after stretching by 5% with respect to the original yarn length. As the spread state in the stretched yarn, there is no part that is continuously opened beyond 5 cm, and the number of parts that are continuously opened 3 to 5 cm is 5 or less per 1 m. It is preferable to be suppressed. When the yarn after elongation does not satisfy either of these two requirements, the wrinkle appearance given to the woven or knitted fabric tends to become a flow wrinkle.

  Next, an example of a method for forming a mixed fiber of the present invention using a core-sheath type heat-bondable fiber and a method for forming a woven or knitted fabric using the mixed fiber will be described.

  First, a heat-bondable yarn is prepared. The heat-bondable yarn can be produced using a known composite spinning device. Specifically, the above-described polyester may be put into a composite spinning apparatus, composite spun at a take-up speed of 1000 to 4500 m / min, and then drawn at a predetermined magnification.

  After obtaining the heat-adhesive yarn, prepare yarns with different numbers of single-filament filaments from the heat-adhesive yarn to be mixed, and mix them at the same time to interlace 40 to 100 pieces / m. Introduce mixed fiber part. At this time, the fiber material of both yarns, the ratio of the number of filaments, the single yarn fineness ratio, the yarn speed during blending, the air pressure, and the like are as described above. Further, the mixing ratio of both yarns (thermal adhesive yarn: yarn of the mixed fiber partner) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5:95 to 50:50. In this example, since a core-sheath type fiber is used as the heat-adhesive fiber, the yarn used as the blended fiber partner may be either a single type or a plurality of types.

  And after fiber mixing, the heat-fusion fiber of this invention can be obtained by heat-processing at the temperature 10 degreeC or more higher than the melt | fusion component distribute | arranged to the sheath part of the heat bondable fiber.

  Next, the obtained mixed fiber is woven and knitted according to a known method, and the obtained woven or knitted fabric is subjected to alkali weight reduction. The fusion component in the woven or knitted fabric can be removed by reducing the alkali. However, it is not always necessary to remove all the fusion components, and a part of the fusion components may be left as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. This means that if too much fusion component remains in the knitted or knitted fabric, the texture of the finally obtained woven or knitted fabric will be hard, but if the fusion component is left in an appropriate amount, it will be crisp, cool, etc. Rather, it may give a favorable texture. The removal amount of the fusion component is preferably 50% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more based on the total fusion component.

  In addition, when the polyester fiber is used for the woven or knitted fabric, the surface of the polyester fiber can be eluted by reducing the alkali, thereby realizing a soft texture.

  After the alkali weight loss, the woven or knitted fabric is dyed. Thereby, a wrinkle appearance can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric. What is necessary is just to select arbitrarily as a dye used in the case of dyeing according to the fiber used. And the kind of dye to be used may be either a single kind or a plurality of kinds. However, in terms of obtaining a clear wrinkle appearance, in the woven or knitted fabric, each fiber group constituting the mixed yarn is dyed with a different type of dye so that the color is different, or only one fiber group is dyed, and the other The means of not dyeing is preferably employed. For example, when the blended yarn is composed of a combination of polyester / rayon, disperse dye is used as dye for dyeing polyester fiber, reactive dye is used as dye for dyeing rayon fiber, and both dyes have different colors. As a result, a clear wrinkle appearance can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric.

  After dyeing, if necessary, the woven or knitted fabric is finally set to obtain the desired woven or knitted fabric.

  A crystalline copolyester obtained by copolymerizing 50 mol% of 1,4 butanediol with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.78, a melting point of 181 ° C. and a glass transition point of 48 ° C., and an PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.61 and a melting point of 256 ° C. Prepared. The melting point was measured using a differential scanning calorimeter “DSC-2 type (trade name)” manufactured by PerkinElmer Co., Ltd. at a temperature rising rate of 20 ° C./min.

  These polyesters are put into a compound spinning apparatus at a mass ratio of 1: 1, and simultaneously spun and stretched at a temperature of 270 ° C. to form a core-sheath structure in which a copolymer polyester is disposed in the sheath and PET is disposed in the core. A yarn composed of heat-adhesive fibers was obtained. The fineness of the obtained yarn was 28 dtex12f.

Then, using a previously prepared rayon filament yarn 84dtex30f and the previously heat-bondable yarn using “STP Winder (trade name)” manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, the yarn speed is 100 m / min, and the air pressure is 1.5 kg. Interlace fiber mixing was performed under the condition of / cm ² . Then, this was heat-processed at the temperature of 200 degreeC using the heat heater, and the fusion | melting mixed fiber of this invention was obtained. In the obtained mixed fiber, the copolyester arranged in the sheath part of the heat-bonding fiber became a fusion component, and the mixed fiber part was integrated. Moreover, the obtained mixed yarn was provided with 80 interlaced mixed fibers / m. As the adhesive strength of the mixed fiber portion, the number of sites that are continuously opened 3-5 cm after being stretched at a constant rate of 5% at a pulling rate of 200 mm / min is 1 location / m, and 5 cm. There were no sites that were continuously opened beyond that.

  Next, the fused mixed yarn was knitted using a Fukuhara Seiki circular knitting machine “LPJ-H33 (trade name)” at a needle density of 28 gauge so that a knitted fabric with a smooth structure was obtained. The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to alkali reduction for 60 minutes under the conditions of an alkali concentration of 40 g / L and a bath ratio of 1:50. Next, the knitted fabric was dyed with 2% omf of reactive dye, 30 g / L of anhydrous sodium sulfate, and 10 g / L of soda ash, and then final set.

  The obtained knitted fabric was dyed only by the rayon filament yarn in the knitted fabric by the dyeing, resulting in a clear wrinkle appearance. Further, in this knitted fabric, the copolyester as a fusion component was removed and part of the PET surface was also eluted due to the alkali weight loss. For this reason, it was very rich in soft feeling.

  On the other hand, in the above example, when the temperature when using the heat heater was set to 170 ° C. instead of 200 ° C., the copolymer polyester disposed in the sheath portion of the heat-adhesive fiber did not melt sufficiently, and as a fusion component Since it did not function sufficiently, the mixed fiber portion could not be integrated. When this blended yarn was subjected to a knitting process similar to the above, opening was observed everywhere in the blended yarn due to friction received when passing through the guide. In addition, the wrinkle appearance of the knitted fabric obtained through the dyeing process has also become a long pitch wrinkle.

Further, in the above embodiment, when the air pressure during interlaced combined filament was 0.3 kg / cm ² instead of 1.5 kg / cm ^2, interlaced combined filament portion combined filament yarn in the only 35 / m formed However, when the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing was changed to 30 m / min instead of 100 m / min, 105 fibers / m were formed. Then, using these mixed yarns, knitted fabrics were respectively produced in the same manner as in the above examples. In the former, the wrinkle appearance of the knitted fabric was flowed, and in the latter, the knots were too fine. I have.

Claims (2)

  It is a mixed yarn composed of two or more types of fiber groups having different numbers of single yarn filaments, and having 40 to 100 interlaced mixed fibers / m in the longitudinal direction, and the mixed fibers are integrated via a fusion component. Fusion spliced yarn characterized by A method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric, characterized in that, after weaving and knitting using the fusion-bonded yarn according to claim 1, a wrinkle appearance is expressed by reducing the amount of alkali and dyeing it.