JP2008169510A - Method for producing suede-tone woven or knit fabric, suede-tone woven or knit fabric and textile product - Google Patents
Method for producing suede-tone woven or knit fabric, suede-tone woven or knit fabric and textile product Download PDFInfo
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 36
- 229920001634 Copolyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 24
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical group OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- -1 bisphenol sulfone Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N bisphenol A Chemical compound C=1C=C(O)C=CC=1C(C)(C)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 IISBACLAFKSPIT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229930185605 Bisphenol Natural products 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=C(C(O)=O)C(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000474 nursing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 10
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920001410 Microfiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 3
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003242 anti bacterial agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N antimony trioxide Chemical compound O=[Sb]O[Sb]=O ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
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- ISPYQTSUDJAMAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-chlorophenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1Cl ISPYQTSUDJAMAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003230 hygroscopic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010954 inorganic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002917 insecticide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005080 phosphorescent agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000874 polytetramethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002215 polytrimethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000011946 reduction process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
- Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、ソフトな風合いと濃い色相を呈するスエード調織編物の製造方法、および該製造方法により製造されたスエード調織編物、および該スエード調織編物を用いてなる繊維製品に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede woven fabric knitted fabric having a soft texture and a dark hue, a suede woven fabric produced by the production method, and a textile product using the suede woven fabric.
従来、ソフトな風合いを呈するスエード調織編物としては、分割型および/または海島型複合繊維を溶割した極細繊維を起毛糸として用いたものが提案されている(例えば、特許文献1参照)。 Conventionally, as a suede knitted or knitted fabric exhibiting a soft texture, one using ultrafine fibers in which split-type and / or sea-island type composite fibers are melted has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 1).
しかしながら、極細繊維を含む織編物は通常の条件で染色加工すると、太繊度繊維を含む織編物と比べて色が淡くなり、低発色になるという欠点があった(例えば、特許文献2参照)。 However, when a woven or knitted fabric containing ultrafine fibers is dyed and processed under normal conditions, the knitted or knitted fabric has a disadvantage that the color becomes lighter and lower color than that of a woven or knitted fabric containing thick fine fibers (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
なお、第3成分を共重合した共重合ポリエステルからなる共重合ポリエステル繊維は、第3成分を共重合していない通常のホモポリエステルからなるポリエステル繊維にくらべて、染色加工すると色が濃くなることが知られている(例えば、特許文献3参照)。 In addition, the copolyester fiber made of the copolyester obtained by copolymerizing the third component may become darker when dyed and processed than the polyester fiber made of a normal homopolyester not co-polymerized with the third component. It is known (see, for example, Patent Document 3).
本発明は上記の背景に鑑みなされたものであり、その目的は、ソフトな風合いと濃い色相を呈するスエード調織編物の製造方法、および該製造方法により製造されたスエード調織編物、および該スエード調織編物を用いてなる繊維製品を提供することにある。 The present invention has been made in view of the above-described background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a suede knitted knitted fabric exhibiting a soft texture and a dark hue, a suede woven knitted fabric produced by the production method, and the suede. An object of the present invention is to provide a textile product using the knitted or knitted fabric.
本発明者らは上記の課題を達成するため鋭意検討した結果、起毛部と地組織部とで構成されるスエード調織編物の製造方法において、前記の起毛糸用繊維として、第3成分を共重合した共重合ポリエステルからなり、かつ特定の単糸繊度を有する共重合ポリエステル繊維を用いることにより、ソフトな風合いと濃い色相とが両立することを見出し、さらに鋭意検討を重ねることにより本発明を完成するに至った。 As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have found that in the method for producing a suede knitted knitted fabric composed of a raised portion and a ground texture portion, the third component is used as the raised yarn fiber. By using copolymerized polyester fibers made of polymerized copolymerized polyester and having a specific single yarn fineness, it was found that a soft texture and a dark hue are compatible, and the present invention was completed by further earnest studies. It came to do.
かくして、本発明によれば「起毛部と地組織部とで構成されるスエード調織編物の製造方法であって、前記の起毛糸用繊維として、単糸繊度1.5dtex以下の共重合ポリエステル繊維を用いることを特徴とするスエード調織編物の製造方法。」が提供される。 Thus, according to the present invention, “a method for producing a suede knitted knitted fabric composed of a raised portion and a ground texture portion, wherein the raised yarn is a copolymer polyester fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or less. A method for producing a suede woven or knitted fabric characterized in that is used.
その際、前記の共重合ポリエステルが、共重合ポリエステルの主構成モノマーがテレフタル酸およびエチレングリコールであり、この主構成モノマーに共重合する第三成分が、イソフタル酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、ジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ビスフェノールA、およびビスフェノールスルフォンからなる群より選択されるいずれかであることが好ましい。特に、前記の共重合ポリエステルが、酸成分がモル比(テレフタル酸/イソフタル酸)90/5〜85/15のテレフタル酸およびイソフタル酸からなり、グリコール成分がエチレングリコールからなる共重合ポリエステルであることが好ましい。また、前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維に仮撚捲縮加工が施されていることが好ましい。かかる前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維の沸水収縮率としては7%以下であることが好ましい。 In this case, the copolymer polyester is such that the main constituent monomers of the copolymer polyester are terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol, and the third component copolymerized with the main constituent monomer is isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacin It is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of acid, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol sulfone. In particular, the copolyester is a copolyester in which the acid component is composed of terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid having a molar ratio (terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid) of 90/5 to 85/15, and the glycol component is composed of ethylene glycol. Is preferred. Moreover, it is preferable that false twist crimp processing is given to the said copolyester fiber. The boiling water shrinkage of the copolymerized polyester fiber is preferably 7% or less.
本発明のスエード調織編物の製造方法において、地組織部用繊維として、ホモポリエステルからなる、単糸繊度が1.5dtexより大の、ホモポリエステル繊維を用いることが好ましい。また、かかるホモポリエステル繊維の沸水収縮率としては15%以上であることが好ましい。また、製編織した後に染色加工を施すことが好ましい。 In the method for producing a suede-textured knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use a homopolyester fiber made of homopolyester and having a single yarn fineness of more than 1.5 dtex as the fiber for the ground tissue part. Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the homopolyester fiber is preferably 15% or more. Moreover, it is preferable to perform dyeing after knitting and weaving.
また、本発明によれば、前記のスエード調織編物の製造方法により製造されたスエード調織編物が提供される。
その際、スエード調織編物の起毛部表面のL値(La)が17.0以下であることが好ましい。また、スエード調織編物の起毛部表面のL値(La)が、地組織部表面のL値(Lb)よりも小さいことが好ましい。
Moreover, according to this invention, the suede woven fabric knit manufactured by the manufacturing method of the said suede woven fabric is provided.
In that case, it is preferable that L value (La) of the raising part surface of a suede knitted fabric is 17.0 or less. Moreover, it is preferable that L value (La) of the raising part surface of a suede woven fabric is smaller than L value (Lb) of the ground-tissue part surface.
また、本発明によれば、前記のスエード調織編物を用いてなる、アウター用衣料、スポーツ用衣料、インナー用衣料、靴材、おしめや介護用シーツ等の医療・衛生用品、寝装寝具、椅子やソファー等の表皮材、カーペット、カーシート地、インテリア用品からなる群より選択されるいずれかの繊維製品が提供される。 Further, according to the present invention, using the suede knitted fabric, the outer clothing, the sports clothing, the inner clothing, the shoe material, medical and hygiene products such as diapers and nursing sheets, bedding bedding, Any textile product selected from the group consisting of skin materials such as chairs and sofas, carpets, car seats, and interior goods is provided.
本発明によれば、ソフトな風合いと濃い色相を呈するスエード調織編物の製造方法、および該製造方法により製造されたスエード調織編物、および該スエード調織編物を用いてなる繊維製品が得られる。 According to the present invention, a method for producing a suede-textured knitted fabric exhibiting a soft texture and a dark hue, a suede-textured knitted fabric produced by the production method, and a fiber product using the suede-textured knitted fabric are obtained. .
以下、本発明の実施の形態について詳細に説明する。
まず、本発明のスエード調織編物の製造方法において、起毛部用繊維として、共重合ポリエステルからなる、単糸繊度1.5dtex以下の共重合ポリエステル繊維を用いる。特に、起毛部用繊維として、単糸繊度1.5dtex以下の共重合ポリエステル繊維が60重量%以上(特に好ましくは100重量%)用いることが好ましい。なお、本発明でいう共重合ポリエステルとは、第3成分を共重合した共重合ポリエステルのことである。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
First, in the method for producing a suede knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention, a copolyester fiber made of a copolyester and having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or less is used as the raised portion fiber. In particular, it is preferable to use 60% by weight or more (particularly preferably 100% by weight) of a copolyester fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 dtex or less as the raised portion fiber. In addition, the copolymer polyester as used in the field of this invention is the copolymer polyester which copolymerized the 3rd component.
前記の共重合ポリエステルとしては、共重合ポリエステルの主構成モノマーがテレフタル酸およびエチレングリコールであり、この主構成モノマーに共重合する第三成分が、イソフタル酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、ジエチレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ビスフェノールA、およびビスフェノールスルフォンからなる群より選択されるいずれかであることが好ましい。特に、前記の共重合ポリエステルが、酸成分がモル比(テレフタル酸/イソフタル酸)90/5〜85/15のテレフタル酸およびイソフタル酸からなり、グリコール成分がエチレングリコールからなる共重合ポリエステルであることが好ましい。このような共重合ポリエステルを用いることにより、通常の染色加工で濃色に着色することができる。通常のホモポリエステルでは、単糸繊度が小さいため濃色に着色することができず好ましくない。 As the copolymer polyester, the main constituent monomers of the copolymer polyester are terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol, and the third component copolymerized with the main constituent monomer is isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, It is preferably any one selected from the group consisting of diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, bisphenol A, and bisphenol sulfone. In particular, the copolyester is a copolyester in which the acid component is composed of terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid having a molar ratio (terephthalic acid / isophthalic acid) of 90/5 to 85/15, and the glycol component is composed of ethylene glycol. Is preferred. By using such a copolyester, it can be colored deeply by a normal dyeing process. Ordinary homopolyesters are not preferred because they have a small single yarn fineness and cannot be colored deeply.
なお、前記の共重合ポリエステルには、本発明の主目的が該されない範囲内であれば、艶消し剤(二酸化チタン)、微細孔形成剤(有機スルホン酸金属塩)、着色防止剤、熱安定剤、難燃剤(三酸化二アンチモン)、蛍光増白剤、着色顔料、帯電防止剤(スルホン酸金属塩)、吸湿剤(ポリオキシアルキレングリコール)、抗菌剤、その他の無機粒子の1種以上を含有させてもよい。 The above copolyester has a matting agent (titanium dioxide), a fine pore-forming agent (organic sulfonic acid metal salt), a color preventing agent, a thermal stability, as long as the main purpose of the present invention is not within the scope. One or more of an agent, a flame retardant (antimony trioxide), a fluorescent brightening agent, a color pigment, an antistatic agent (metal salt of sulfonic acid), a hygroscopic agent (polyoxyalkylene glycol), an antibacterial agent, and other inorganic particles You may make it contain.
前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維の単糸繊度は1.5dtex以下(好ましくは0.2〜0.8dtex)であることが肝要である。該単糸繊度が1.5dtexよりも大きいと、ソフトな風合いが得られず好ましくない。逆に、該単糸繊度が0.2dtexよりも小さいと濃い色相が得られないおそれがある。例えば、分割型複合繊維を分割して得られた極細繊維では、単糸繊度が小さすぎるため濃い色相が得られないおそれがある。 It is important that the monofilament fineness of the copolymerized polyester fiber is 1.5 dtex or less (preferably 0.2 to 0.8 dtex). When the single yarn fineness is larger than 1.5 dtex, a soft texture cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the single yarn fineness is less than 0.2 dtex, a dark hue may not be obtained. For example, in an ultrafine fiber obtained by dividing a split type composite fiber, there is a possibility that a dark hue cannot be obtained because the single yarn fineness is too small.
前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維の繊維形態としては、マルチフィラメント(長繊維)であることが好ましい。その際、マルチフィラメントの総繊度、フィラメント数としては、ソフトな風合いを得る上で、それぞれ総繊度30〜300dtex、フィラメント数50〜300本の範囲内であることが好ましい。特に、前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維に仮撚捲縮加工が施されていると、さらにソフトな風合いが得られ好ましい。 The fiber form of the copolyester fiber is preferably a multifilament (long fiber). At that time, the total fineness and the number of filaments of the multifilament are preferably within the ranges of 30 to 300 dtex and 50 to 300 filaments, respectively, in order to obtain a soft texture. In particular, it is preferable that the copolyester fiber is subjected to false twist crimping because a softer texture can be obtained.
また、前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維の沸水収縮率が7%以下(より好ましくは1〜6%)であると、織編物に染色加工を施す際の熱により、地組織部繊維を優先的に熱収縮させ、相対的に起毛部用繊維の熱収縮を低くおさえることができる。その結果、起毛部用繊維からなるループパイルが形成され、該ループパイルを起毛加工して起毛糸とする際、起毛加工が容易になる。 Further, when the boiling water shrinkage of the copolymerized polyester fiber is 7% or less (more preferably 1 to 6%), the ground tissue portion fiber is preferentially heated by heat when the woven or knitted fabric is dyed. It is possible to reduce the heat shrinkage of the raised fibers relatively. As a result, a loop pile made of the raised portion fibers is formed, and when the loop pile is raised to obtain a raised yarn, the raising process is facilitated.
前記のような沸水収縮率が7%以下の共重合ポリエステル繊維は例えば以下の方法により製造することができる。すなわち、まず前記のような共重合ポリエステルを、通常の紡糸工程に供し紡糸した後、これに延伸を施すことなく直接3300m/分〜3800m/分の巻取り速度で部分配向未延伸フィラメント糸条として巻取り、この部分配向未延伸フィラメント糸条を通常の延伸仮撚捲縮加工(例えば、延伸倍率:1.4〜1.6倍、第1ヒーター温度:190〜210℃、仮撚方式:フリクション仮撚)を施すとよい。 A copolymer polyester fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 7% or less as described above can be produced, for example, by the following method. That is, first, after the copolyester as described above is subjected to a normal spinning process and spun, it is used as a partially oriented unstretched filament yarn at a winding speed of 3300 m / min to 3800 m / min directly without stretching. Winding, this partially oriented unstretched filament yarn is subjected to normal stretch false twist crimping (for example, draw ratio: 1.4 to 1.6 times, first heater temperature: 190 to 210 ° C., false twist method: friction It is recommended to apply false twist.
本発明のスエード調織編物の製造方法において、地組織部用繊維として、ホモポリエステル(第3成分を共重合していないポリエステル)からなる、単糸繊度が1.5dtexより大(特に好ましくは2.0〜4.0dtex)のホモポリエステル繊維を用いることが好ましい。ここで、該ホモポリエステル繊維の単糸繊度が1.5dtex以下では、地組織部の色相が淡くなり、起毛部表面のL値(La)に影響を与えるおそれがある。 In the method for producing a suede-textured knitted fabric of the present invention, the monofilament fineness is more than 1.5 dtex (particularly preferably 2) made of homopolyester (polyester not copolymerized with the third component) as the fabric for the ground tissue part. It is preferable to use a homopolyester fiber of 0.0 to 4.0 dtex). Here, when the single yarn fineness of the homopolyester fiber is 1.5 dtex or less, the hue of the ground texture portion becomes light, which may affect the L value (La) of the surface of the raised portion.
前記ホモポリエステル繊維の繊維種類としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリテトラメチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維が好適に例示される。特にポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維が好ましい。 Preferred examples of the homopolyester fiber include polyethylene terephthalate fiber, polybutylene terephthalate fiber, polytetramethylene terephthalate fiber, and polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. Polyethylene terephthalate fiber is particularly preferable.
かかる地組織部用繊維の繊維形態としては、マルチフィラメント(長繊維)であることが好ましい。その際、マルチフィラメントの総繊度、フィラメント数としては、ソフトな風合いを得る上で、それぞれ総繊度50〜300dtex、フィラメント数30〜200本の範囲内であることが好ましい。該繊維に仮撚捲縮加工や空気加工が施されていてもよい。 As a fiber form of the fiber for the ground tissue part, a multifilament (long fiber) is preferable. At that time, the total fineness and the number of filaments of the multifilament are preferably within the ranges of 50 to 300 dtex and 30 to 200 filaments, respectively, in order to obtain a soft texture. The fiber may be subjected to false twist crimping or air processing.
また、かかるホモポリエステル繊維の沸水収縮率としては15%以上であることが好ましい。ホモポリエステル繊維の沸水収縮率が15%以上(より好ましくは18〜25%)であると、織編物に染色加工を施す際の熱により、地組織部繊維を優先的に熱収縮させ、相対的に起毛部用繊維の熱収縮を低くおさえることができる。その結果、起毛部用繊維からなるループパイルが形成され、該ループパイルを起毛加工して起毛糸とする際、起毛加工が容易になる。 Further, the boiling water shrinkage of the homopolyester fiber is preferably 15% or more. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the homopolyester fiber is 15% or more (more preferably 18 to 25%), the ground tissue portion fiber is preferentially heat-shrinked by heat at the time of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, the heat shrinkage of the raised fibers can be kept low. As a result, a loop pile made of the raised portion fibers is formed, and when the loop pile is raised to obtain a raised yarn, the raising process is facilitated.
なお、このような沸水収縮率を有するホモポリエステル繊維は、例えば、固有粘度0.64程度のホモポリエステルを常法により紡糸・延伸することにより得ることができる。 The homopolyester fiber having such a boiling water shrinkage can be obtained, for example, by spinning and stretching a homopolyester having an intrinsic viscosity of about 0.64 by a conventional method.
本発明のスエード調織編物の製造方法において、前記の起毛部用繊維として、前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維を用いて製編織する。その際、製編織方法は特に限定されず通常の製編織方法でよい。また、織編物の織編組織も特に限定されず通常の織編組織でよい。
織編物の密度も特に限定されないが、編物の場合であれば45〜120コース/2.54cm、20〜50ウエール/2.54cmの範囲内であることが好ましい。
In the method for producing a suede-textured knitted fabric of the present invention, the above-mentioned copolymerized polyester fiber is used for knitting and weaving as the raised portion fiber. In that case, the weaving method is not particularly limited, and a normal weaving method may be used. Further, the woven or knitted structure of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, and may be a normal woven or knitted structure.
The density of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but in the case of a knitted fabric, it is preferably within the range of 45 to 120 course / 2.54 cm, 20 to 50 wale / 2.54 cm.
また、通常、織編物を製編織した後に染色加工を施す。かかる染色加工は分散染料を用いた通常の染色加工方法でよい。染色加工の際の熱により、前述のとおり起毛部用繊維と地組織部用繊維との熱収縮率の差により、起毛部用繊維からなるループパイルが形成される。また同時に、かかる染色加工により、起毛部用繊維として共重合ポリエステル繊維が用いられているので起毛部用繊維(ループパイル)は濃色に着色される。そして、該ループを常法(例えば、針布起毛)により起毛加工を施すことで図1に模式的に示すようなスエード調織編物が得られる。 Usually, the dyeing process is performed after weaving or knitting the knitted or knitted fabric. Such a dyeing process may be a normal dyeing process using a disperse dye. Due to the heat during the dyeing process, a loop pile composed of the raised portion fibers is formed due to the difference in thermal shrinkage between the raised portion fibers and the ground tissue portion fibers as described above. At the same time, since the polyester fiber is used as the raised portion fiber by the dyeing process, the raised portion fiber (loop pile) is colored deeply. And a suede knitted fabric as schematically shown in FIG. 1 is obtained by subjecting the loop to raising by a conventional method (for example, raising a needle cloth).
かくして得られたスエード調織編物の起毛部表面は、濃い色相を呈する。スエード調織編物の起毛部表面のL値(La)が17.0以下であることが好ましい。スエード調織編物の起毛部表面のL値(La)が、地組織部表面のL値(Lb)よりも小さい。またかかるスエード調織編物において、起毛部用繊維として細い繊度の繊維が用いられているのでソフトな風合いを呈する。 The surface of the raised portion of the suede-textured knitted fabric thus obtained exhibits a dark hue. It is preferable that L value (La) of the raising part surface of a suede woven fabric is 17.0 or less. The L value (La) of the raised portion surface of the suede knitted knitted fabric is smaller than the L value (Lb) of the ground tissue portion surface. Further, in such a suede knitted fabric, a fine texture is used as the raised portion fibers, so that a soft texture is exhibited.
なお、前記の染色加工の前および/または後に、常法のアルカリ減量加工、吸水加工、撥水加工、さらには、紫外線遮蔽あるいは制電剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤、防虫剤、蓄光剤、再帰反射剤、マイナスイオン発生剤等の機能を付与する各種加工を付加適用してもよい。 In addition, before and / or after the dyeing process, a conventional alkali weight reduction process, a water absorption process, a water repellent process, and an ultraviolet shielding or antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insecticide, a phosphorescent agent, Various processes that provide functions such as a retroreflective agent and a negative ion generator may be additionally applied.
また、本発明の繊維製品は、前記のスエード調織編物を用いてなる、アウター用衣料、スポーツ用衣料、インナー用衣料、靴材、おしめや介護用シーツ等の医療・衛生用品、寝装寝具、椅子やソファー等の表皮材、カーペット、カーシート地、インテリア用品からなる群より選択されるいずれかの繊維製品である。なお、前記のスエード調織編物は、通常起毛部表面が外気側となるように用いられる。
かかる繊維製品は、前記のスエード調織編物を用いているのでソフトな風合いと濃い色相を呈する。
In addition, the textile product of the present invention comprises the above-described suede knitted knitted fabric, outer clothing, sports clothing, inner clothing, shoe materials, medical and hygiene products such as diapers and nursing sheets, and bedding. A textile product selected from the group consisting of skin materials such as chairs and sofas, carpets, car seats, and interior goods. The suede knitted fabric is usually used so that the surface of the raised portion is on the outside air side.
Since such a suede-like knitted fabric is used, such a textile product exhibits a soft texture and a deep hue.
以下、実施例をあげて本発明を詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらによって何ら限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中の各物性は下記の方法により測定したものである。
(1)固有粘度
オルソ−クロルフェノールに溶解し、ウベローデ粘度管を用い、35℃で測定した。
(2)沸水収縮率
JIS L 1013−1998、7.15で規定される方法により、沸水収縮率(熱水収縮率)(%)をn数3で測定した。
(3)L値
マクベスカラーアイ(Macbeth color−Eye)モデルM−2020(米国、コルモーゲン社製)を使用して、光源D65、10度視野で被試験布のL値を測定(N=5)しその平均値を求めた。
(4)捲縮率(%)
供試フィラメント糸条を、周長が1.125mの検尺機のまわりに巻きつけて、乾繊度が3333dtexのかせを調製した。
前記かせを、スケール板の吊り釘に懸垂して、その下部分に6gの初荷重を付加し、さらに600gの荷重を付加したときのかせの長さL0を測定する。その後、直ちに、前記かせから荷重を除き、スケール板の吊り釘から外し、このかせを沸騰水中に30分間浸漬して、捲縮を発現させる。沸騰水処理後のかせを沸騰水から取り出し、かせに含まれる水分をろ紙により吸収除去し、室温において24時間風乾する。この風乾されたかせを、スケール板の吊り釘に懸垂し、その下部分に、600gの荷重をかけ、1分後にかせの長さL1aを測定し、その後かせから荷重を外し、1分後にかせの長さL2aを測定する。供試フィラメント糸条の捲縮率(CP)を、下記式により算出する。
CP(%)=((L1a−L2a)/L0)×100
(5)風合い
試験者3人の官能評価により下記の3段階に評価した。3級:起毛部表面がソフトである。2級:起毛部表面がややソフトである。1級:起毛部表面が硬い。
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these. In addition, each physical property in an Example is measured with the following method.
(1) Intrinsic viscosity Dissolved in ortho-chlorophenol and measured at 35 ° C using an Ubbelohde viscosity tube.
(2) Boiling water shrinkage rate Boiling water shrinkage rate (hot water shrinkage rate) (%) was measured by n number 3 by the method defined in JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15.
(3) L value Using a Macbeth color-Eye model M-2020 (manufactured by Colmogen, USA), the L value of the cloth to be tested is measured with a light source D65 and a 10-degree field of view (N = 5). The average value was obtained.
(4) Crimp rate (%)
The test filament yarn was wound around a measuring machine having a circumference of 1.125 m to prepare a skein having a dryness of 3333 dtex.
The skein is suspended from a hanging nail of the scale plate, an initial load of 6 g is applied to the lower part thereof, and a length L0 of the skein when a load of 600 g is further applied is measured. Immediately thereafter, the load is removed from the skein, the scale plate is removed from the hanging nail, and the skein is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes to develop crimps. The skein after the boiling water treatment is taken out from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein is absorbed and removed with a filter paper, and air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. This air-dried skein is hung on a hanging nail of the scale plate, a load of 600 g is applied to the lower part, a length L1a of the skein is measured after 1 minute, and then the load is removed from the skein and after 1 minute The length L2a is measured. The crimp rate (CP) of the test filament yarn is calculated by the following formula.
CP (%) = ((L1a−L2a) / L0) × 100
(5) Texture The following three levels were evaluated by sensory evaluation of three testers. Third grade: The raised surface is soft. Second grade: The raised part surface is slightly soft. First grade: The raised surface is hard.
[実施例1]
酸成分がモル比93/7のテレフタル酸及びイソフタル酸からなり、グリコール成分がエチレングリコールからなり、固有粘度1.45を有する共重合ポリエステルを調製した。この共重合ポリエステル樹脂を通常の紡糸方法で溶融紡糸し、3500m/分の巻取り速度で巻き取った後に、巻き取った部分配向未延伸ポリエステルマルチフィラメント(ヤーンカウント:84dtex/144本)を通常の延伸仮撚捲縮加工(延伸倍率:1.5倍、第1ヒーター温度:200℃、仮撚方式:フリクション仮撚)を施し、共重合ポリエステル繊維として仮撚捲縮加工糸(ヤーンカウント:56dtex/144本、単糸繊度:0.39dtex、沸水収縮率:5%、捲縮率:1.5%)を得た。
[Example 1]
A copolyester having an acid component composed of terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid having a molar ratio of 93/7, a glycol component composed of ethylene glycol, and an intrinsic viscosity of 1.45 was prepared. This copolyester resin was melt-spun by a normal spinning method, wound at a winding speed of 3500 m / min, and then wound partially oriented unstretched polyester multifilament (yarn count: 84 dtex / 144) Stretched false twist crimping (drawing ratio: 1.5 times, first heater temperature: 200 ° C., false twisting method: friction false twisting), and false twisted crimped yarn (yarn count: 56 dtex) as copolymerized polyester fiber / 144, single yarn fineness: 0.39 dtex, boiling water shrinkage: 5%, crimp rate: 1.5%).
次いで、カールマイヤー社製トリコット編機を使用して、前記マルチフィライメント糸をL3筬に、地組織用繊維(ホモポリエステル繊維)として通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント(ヤーンカウント:84dtex/36本、沸水収縮率:20%、帝人ファイバー(株)製)をL2およびL1筬にフルセット配列し、編み方(L3:10/45、L2:10/12、L1:12/10)の組織を有する編物(60コース/2.54cm、28ウエール/2.54cm)を得た。該編物は2層構造を有し、該2層のうち1層が前記マルチフィラメント仮撚捲縮糸(共重合ポリエステル繊維)で構成され、他の層が前記マルチフィラメント糸(ホモポリエステル繊維)で構成されていた。 Then, using a Tricot knitting machine manufactured by KARL MAYER, the multifilament yarn is L3 筬, and a normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament (yarn count: 84 dtex / 36, boiling water) is used as a texture fiber (homopolyester fiber). Shrinkage: 20%, made by Teijin Fibers Ltd.) in full set arrangement on L2 and L1 ridges, and a knitted fabric having a structure of knitting method (L3: 10/45, L2: 10/12, L1: 12/10) (60 courses / 2.54 cm, 28 wales / 2.54 cm) were obtained. The knitted fabric has a two-layer structure, one of the two layers being composed of the multifilament false twisted crimped yarn (copolyester fiber), and the other layer being the multifilament yarn (homopolyester fiber). Was composed.
次に、該編地を、(株)日阪製作所製液流染色機にて分散染料(Kp BK AUL−E 7%owf)を用い、温度130℃、時間30分間の染色処理を行った。染色後、(株)ヒラノテクシード製ショートループドライヤーにて温度130℃、時間5分間の条件で乾燥した。起毛剤処理をパディング機(ヒラノテクシード社製)にて実施し、乾熱セッターに供して、拡布状態において、温度:170℃、時間:1分間のプレセット乾熱熱処理を施した後、針布起毛機(日機(株)社製)にてループパイルの先端部分を起毛しセミカットパイルを形成した。得られたセミカットパイル布帛を、乾燥セッター(ヒラノテクシード社製)に供してこれに160℃×1分のファイナル乾熱処理を施し、コース数:65コース/2.54cm、ウエール数:39ウエール/2.54cmのスエード調布帛を得た。 Next, the knitted fabric was dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes using a disperse dye (Kp BK AUL-E 7% owf) with a liquid dyeing machine manufactured by Nisaka Corporation. After dyeing, it was dried at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 5 minutes using a short loop dryer manufactured by Hirano Techseed. Brushing treatment was performed with a padding machine (manufactured by Hirano Techseed Co., Ltd.), subjected to a dry heat setter, and subjected to a preset dry heat heat treatment at a temperature of 170 ° C. for a time of 1 minute in the expanded state, followed by raising the needle cloth The tip of the loop pile was raised with a machine (manufactured by Nikkiso Co., Ltd.) to form a semi-cut pile. The obtained semi-cut pile fabric was subjected to a dry setter (manufactured by Hirano Tech Seed) and subjected to final dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 1 minute. The number of courses: 65 courses / 2.54 cm, the number of wales: 39 wales / 2 A 54 cm suede fabric was obtained.
得られた布帛をマクベスカラーアイ(Macbeth color−Eye)モデルM−2020(米国、コルモーゲン社製)を使用して、光源D65、10度視野で被試験布のL値を測定した結果、表面(起毛部表面)はL値16.91に対し、裏面(地組織部表面)はL値:17.03となり、表面と裏面の染着性の差はなく、濃い色相とソフトな風合い(3級)を兼ね備えた布帛を得られた。また、起毛部は全て前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維で形成されていた。 Using the Macbeth color-Eye model M-2020 (manufactured by Kolmorgen, USA), the L value of the cloth to be tested was measured with a light source D65 and a 10-degree field of view. The surface of the raised part) is 16.91 on the L value, the surface of the back part is L value: 17.03, and there is no difference in the dyeing property between the front and back surfaces. ) Was obtained. Further, the raised portions were all formed of the above-mentioned copolymerized polyester fiber.
[実施例2]
実施例1において、酸成分がモル比93/7のテレフタル酸及びイソフタル酸からなり、グリコール成分がエチレングリコールからなり、固有粘度1.45を有する共重合ポリエステルを調製した。この共重合ポリエステルを、紡糸口金に穿孔され、通常の溶融紡糸孔を通して、紡糸温度300℃で押し出し、通常の方法により冷却固化、延伸することにより、ヤーンカウントが33dtex/12フィラメント(単糸繊度2.75dtex)の延伸マルチフィラメント糸条(無撚、熱水収縮率30%)を作製した。
[Example 2]
In Example 1, a copolyester having an acid component composed of terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid having a molar ratio of 93/7, a glycol component composed of ethylene glycol, and an intrinsic viscosity of 1.45 was prepared. This copolymerized polyester is perforated in a spinneret, extruded through a normal melt spinning hole at a spinning temperature of 300 ° C., cooled, solidified and stretched by a usual method, whereby a yarn count of 33 dtex / 12 filament (single yarn fineness of 2 .75 dtex) drawn multifilament yarn (no twist, hot water shrinkage 30%).
次いで、実施例1に記載の仮撚糸条と引きそろえて公知のインターレースノズルを用いて空気混繊することにより、混繊糸(交絡数100個/m、沸水収縮率:20.2%)を作成し、L3用糸条とした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、コース数:68コース/2.54cm、ウエール数:38ウエール/2.54cmのスエード調布帛を得た。 Subsequently, by mixing with the false twisted yarn described in Example 1 and air-mixing using a known interlace nozzle, the mixed yarn (number of entanglement 100 / m, boiling water shrinkage: 20.2%) is obtained. A suede fabric with a number of courses: 68 courses / 2.54 cm and a number of wales: 38 wales / 2.54 cm was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarns were made and used as L3 yarns.
得られた布帛を実施例1と同様にL値を測定した結果、表面(起毛部表面)はL値16.06に対し、裏面(地組織部表面)はL値:16.85となり、表面と裏面の染着性の差はなく、濃い色相とソフト性(3級)を兼ね備えた布帛を得られた。また、起毛部は全て前記の共重合ポリエステル繊維で形成されていた。 As a result of measuring the L value of the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, the surface (raised surface) had an L value of 16.06, and the back surface (ground texture portion surface) had an L value of 16.85. There was no difference in dyeing property between the back surface and the back surface, and a fabric having a deep hue and softness (3rd grade) was obtained. Further, the raised portions were all formed of the above-mentioned copolymerized polyester fiber.
[比較例1]
実施例1において、L3用糸条として、通常のポリエチレンテレフタレート樹脂を通常の溶融紡糸孔を通して、紡糸、延伸した後、通常の仮撚捲縮加工を施す事により、ヤーンカウント56dtex/144本の仮撚マルチフィラメント糸条(沸水収縮率10%)を得て、編地を編成すること以外は実施例1と同様にしてコース数:66コース/2.54cm、ウエール数:39ウエール/2.54cmのスエード調布帛を得た。
[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, as a yarn for L3, a normal polyethylene terephthalate resin was spun and stretched through a normal melt spinning hole, and then subjected to a normal false twist crimping process to obtain a yarn count of 56 dtex / 144 temporary yarns. The number of courses: 66 courses / 2.54 cm, the number of wales: 39 wales / 2.54 cm, except that a twisted multifilament yarn (boiling water shrinkage 10%) was obtained and the knitted fabric was knitted. Of suede fabric was obtained.
得られた布帛を実施例1と同様にL値を測定した結果、表面(起毛部表面)はL値18.86に対し、裏面(地組織部表面)はL値:17.36となり、表面と裏面の染着性の差は大きく開き、ソフト性は得られた(3級)が、淡い色相を呈するものであった。 As a result of measuring the L value of the obtained fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, the surface (raised surface) had an L value of 18.86, and the back surface (ground textured surface) had an L value of 17.36. The difference in dyeing property between the back surface and the back surface was greatly widened, and softness was obtained (grade 3), but a light hue was exhibited.
本発明によれば、ソフトな風合いと濃い色相を呈するスエード調織編物の製造方法、および該製造方法により製造されたスエード調織編物、および該スエード調織編物を用いてなる繊維製品が提供され、その工業的価値は極めて大である。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the manufacturing method of the suede woven fabric knitted fabric which exhibits a soft texture and a deep hue, the suede woven fabric manufactured by this manufacturing method, and the textile product using this suede woven fabric are provided. The industrial value is extremely large.
1:起毛部
2:地組織部
1: Brushed part 2: Ground tissue part
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Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JPH04100978A (en) * | 1990-08-08 | 1992-04-02 | Unitika Ltd | Production of antistatic suede-toned knit |
JPH0770871A (en) * | 1993-09-03 | 1995-03-14 | Kuraray Co Ltd | Ultrafine yarn fabric having excellent colorability |
JP2004137659A (en) * | 2002-09-26 | 2004-05-13 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Multi-color fiber pile cloth and multi-color fiber pile cloth with concave-convex pattern |
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Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JPH04100978A (en) * | 1990-08-08 | 1992-04-02 | Unitika Ltd | Production of antistatic suede-toned knit |
JPH0770871A (en) * | 1993-09-03 | 1995-03-14 | Kuraray Co Ltd | Ultrafine yarn fabric having excellent colorability |
JP2004137659A (en) * | 2002-09-26 | 2004-05-13 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Multi-color fiber pile cloth and multi-color fiber pile cloth with concave-convex pattern |
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