JP2007154358A - Woven fabric having self-controlling function - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric exhibiting air-permeability controlling function in wet state, and having excellent durability, good bulkiness, wearing comfortableness and antipilling property. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric at least contains a yarn A, a yarn B and a yarn C as warps and/or wefts. The yarn A and the yarn B are hydrophilic yarns having real twist in opposite twist directions at a twist coefficient of ≥5.0 and arranged to alternately position a single or multiple yarns adjacent to each other. The other yarn C composed of staple fibers and/or filaments is arranged as a warp and/or a weft at a position parallel and adjacent to the yarn A and/or the yarn B to obtain the woven fabric having self-controlling function satisfying a specific air-permeability change in wet state and standard state. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2007,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric having a self-adjusting function in which air permeability is reversibly changed by changing a wet state.

Conventionally, there are various proposals for adjusting the air permeability of clothing by changing the humidity. It is known that the crimp rate of cellulose acetate fibers changes according to the change in humidity and tries to adjust the climate in clothes (for example, see Patent Document 1). Also known is a composite fiber that is joined in a side-by-side manner due to a change in humidity so that the air permeability is adjusted (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
JP 2002-180323 A JP 2004-124305 A

  However, in any of the methods described above, the yarn of the woven or knitted fabric becomes larger due to the difference in the yarn diameter due to fiber crimp when wet, and the air permeability is improved. The behavior at the level is mentioned, and it is considered that the behavior such as the crimp rate is reduced by applying some force from the outside by twisting or knitting the raw yarn. The use is limited due to problems such as the material used and strength, and since it is a material mainly composed of long fibers, it is not satisfactory in terms of hygroscopicity and touch.

  The present invention exhibits the air permeability adjustment function in a wet state, and therefore, by combining the properties of the material itself with the untwisting effect when weaving the yarn having a real twist in the opposite direction, the fabric structure, Not only can the function be maintained semipermanently in terms of practical use, it can also be used as a wide range of clothing materials, and even if the yarn is twisted, the air permeability adjustment effect is not reduced, and it has excellent durability and good swelling and wearing. We intend to provide a fabric that combines comfort.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have finally completed the present invention. That is, the present invention employs the following configuration.
1. A fabric in which at least the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C are arranged as warp and / or weft, and the yarn A and the yarn B have a twist coefficient of 5.0 or more in opposite directions. A hydrophilic yarn having a twist, and arranged in such a manner that one or a plurality of yarns are alternately adjacent to each other, and other yarn C that is a short fiber and / or a long fiber is a yarn A and / or A self-adjusting function characterized in that it is arranged as a warp and / or a weft in a position parallel and adjacent to B, and the woven fabric satisfies the air permeability change rate represented by the following formula (1). Having woven fabric.
(Air permeability change rate) = {(Air permeability β−Air permeability α) / Air permeability α} × 100 ≧ + 5.0% (1)
(However, the air permeability β represents the air permeability at 20 ° C. × 65% RH measured in accordance with JIS L1096, and the air permeability β represents the air permeability at a water content of 50%.)
2. The yarn having a self-adjusting function according to the first aspect, wherein the yarn A and the yarn B contain a hydrophilic fiber in a proportion of 40% by weight or more.
3. The woven fabric having a self-adjusting function according to the first or second aspect, wherein the maximum number of floats of warp and / or weft is 2-6.

  The present invention can maintain the function semi-permanently in practical use by combining the characteristics of the material itself, the untwisting torque by counter-twisting, and the fabric structure in order to exert the air permeability adjustment function in a wet state. It can be used as a wide range of clothing materials, and even if the yarn is twisted, the air permeability adjustment effect is not lowered, but rather performance improvement by strong twisting is expected, for example, excellent pilling durability and good swelling, We intend to provide a fabric that is comfortable to wear.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the fabric of the present invention, hydrophilic yarn A and hydrophilic yarn B having warp and / or weft yarns having opposite real twists in an opposite direction to each other, and a yarn C constituting a ground portion are arranged. Being done. The adjacent hydrophilic yarns A and hydrophilic yarns B in the opposite twist direction may be adjacent to each other or may be adjacent to each other, but each may be adjacent to each other in order to exert the effect of the present invention. The number is preferably from 4 to 4, more preferably 1 to 2 each.

The twist coefficient can be calculated from the value obtained by dividing the number of twists per 2.54 cm (1 inch) by the root English cotton count [twist coefficient K = twist number per 2.54 cm ÷ (English cotton Count) ^1/2 ], the value is 5.0 or more. If it is 5.0 or more, the effect of the present invention can be exerted by the untwisting torque when wet, but if the twisting factor becomes too large, quality problems such as reduced strength of the yarn and brittleness are likely to occur. -8.0 is desirable, and a twist coefficient of 5.0-7.0 is still desirable.

  The other yarn C, which is a short fiber and / or long fiber, forms a ground portion, and is further arranged as a warp and / or weft in a position parallel to and adjacent to the yarns A and / or B. It is preferable that

In the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the fabric air permeability α at 20 ° C. × 65% RH and the air permeability β at 50% moisture content satisfy the following formula (1) as measured by JIS L1096.
(Air permeability change rate) = {(Air permeability β−Air permeability α) / Air permeability α} × 100 ≧ + 5.0% (1)
If it is less than 5%, it is not preferable because it is difficult to realize comfort at high humidity when worn. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50%, conversely, sudden sweat vaporization occurs and it feels cold and is not preferable. More preferably, it is 7% to 30%, and further preferably 9% to 20%.

  Hydrophilic yarn is assumed to have a hygroscopicity of 10% or more at 20 ° C and a relative humidity of 95% RH [Textile Technology Data Collection edited by the Japan Spinning Association]. In addition to cotton, wool and rayon, acrylate and some acetates These blended fibers are also included.

  As a mechanism satisfying the formula (1) using these raw yarns, the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B which are arranged at regular intervals according to the fabric plan in the standard state (20 ° C. × 65 RH). As the single fiber itself swells due to moisture absorption and water absorption in a wet state, the twisting torque increases, and a force to return to the untwisting direction opposite to the twisting direction works. Adjacent one or more of these yarns in the opposite twist direction causes the S twist yarn to move in the left direction and the Z twist yarn to move in the right direction, so that the gap between the fabrics becomes larger and measured by JIS L1096. It is considered that the rate of change in air permeability before and after wetting can satisfy the above formula (1).

    The hydrophilic components constituting the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B of the present invention are preferably 40% or more in order to sufficiently exhibit this effect. This is because, as described above, the fabric gap is widened by causing the fiber to behave by swelling the hydrophilic component. Therefore, the hydrophilic component is preferably 40% to 100%, but more preferably 70% to 100%.

    The hydrophilic component constituting the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B in the fabric is preferably 30% or more. If it is less than 30%, the air permeability change rate tends to be less than 5%.

    The material constituting the hydrophilic yarn A or the hydrophilic yarn B is selected based on a certain moisture absorption rate, but as a cross-sectional shape thereof, in addition to the natural cross-sectional shape possessed by natural fibers such as cotton and wool, The synthetic fiber material may have a triangular cross-section, a multi-leaf cross-section, or a hollow cross-section in addition to the round cross-section, and may also have a different fineness, mixed different fiber lengths, or the like. These are also not restricted in the cross-section, fineness, etc., even in the case of hydrophobic fibers that are blended and mixed with hydrophilic components.

    It is preferable that the maximum floating number or the maximum sinking number for organizing the fabric restraint points of the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B is 2 to 6. Here, the maximum floating number or the maximum sinking number is the maximum number of warp yarns or weft yarns that are not constrained by the crossing points as shown in FIGS. There are two in the azekura structure of FIG. 1, and three in the multiple structure in FIG. A single fiber is not preferred because the fiber is strongly constrained and the fabric space is difficult to expand, and a fabric of 7 or more tends to deteriorate the fabric slip and pilling properties.

One feature of the fabric of the present invention is that it has excellent pilling properties. Usually, in order to increase the air permeability, the weave density is set low, but in that case, there is a problem that the pilling property is remarkably deteriorated. However, the woven fabric of the present invention solved these problems by setting the range of the weave density to 18 to 40 in terms of the total cover factor and optimizing the range of the number of twists. The pilling property is preferably 3.5 or higher. The total cover factor can be obtained by the following formula.
Warp cover factor = Warp density (number of yarns between 2.54 cm) ÷ (Wait English cotton count) ^1/2
Weft cover factor = Weft density (number of yarns between 2.54 cm) ÷ (English weft cotton count) ^1/2
Total cover factor = Warp cover factor + Weft cover factor

    The moisture content of the fabric is set to 50% when it is sufficiently dipped in JIS L1095 water (20 ° C ± 2 ° C) for 20 minutes or more (± 5% is acceptable). JIS L1095 standard condition (20 ℃ ± 2 ℃, 65% ± 2%).

  The yarn C is a short fiber and / or a long fiber, and may be a long / short composite yarn obtained by combining these. The material constituting the thread C includes regenerated fibers such as rayon, polynosic and cupra, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and triacetate, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp and wool, staples of polyester fibers, and staples of other synthetic fibers Moreover, although these mixed fibers etc. are mentioned, natural fibers or cellulosic fibers are preferred from the viewpoint of hygroscopicity or touch. A hydrophilic material having an official moisture content (JIS-1096) at 65% RH and 20 ° C. of 5% or more is preferred. Moreover, as a cross-sectional shape, it may have any cross section such as a triangular cross section, a hollow cross section, a multi-leaf cross section, etc. in addition to a round cross section, and may also have a different fineness and mixed different fiber lengths. The yarn C may be composed of a hydrophilic fiber or a hydrophobic fiber, but too high a hydrophobic fiber mixing ratio is not preferable for clothing in terms of water absorption ↓ and touch. On the other hand, if the mixing ratio of the hydrophilic fibers is too high, the single fibers swell when wet and the fabric voids ↓ and the air permeability tends to decrease, which is not preferable. From the above, the hydrophobic fiber mixing ratio and the hydrophilic fiber mixing ratio of the yarn C are preferably 20%: 80% -80%: 20%, more preferably 30%: 70% -70%: 30%. The twist coefficient of the yarn C is preferably K = 5.0 or less, and more preferably 4.2 or less, from the viewpoint of fabric dimensional stability when wet, texture and cost.

  In the warp or weft, the weight ratio of the total of the hydrophilic yarns A and B and the yarn C is preferably 30:70 to 80:20. If the ratio of the hydrophilic yarns A and B is less than 30%, the number of fibers that move through the weave becomes too small, so that the change in air permeability tends to be less than 5%. Since the fabric shrinkage tends to be large and the amount of moving fibers is too large, the shape retention of the fabric is likely to be lost, and it is difficult to reversibly control the humidity, which is not preferable. A more preferable range is 40:60 to 70:30. It is more preferable that the ratio of the fibers of the yarns A, B, and C is within the above range for both the warp and the weft.

  A: C or B: C, which is a ratio of the yarn fineness of the yarn C to the yarn fineness of the hydrophilic yarn A or B, is preferably 10:90 to 70:30. If the ratio of the yarn C is less than 30%, the shape retention of the woven fabric tends to be lost and it is difficult to reversibly control the humidity, and if it exceeds 90%, the hydrophilic yarns A and B do not have moisture absorption. This is not preferable because the shift tends to occur. A more preferable range is 20:80 to 60:40.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples.
The measuring method is as follows.

(A) Number of twists The number of twists was measured according to the JIS L1095 A method using a manual type inspection machine (manufactured by Asano Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd.).

(B) Air permeability change rate
It was carried out according to JIS L1096A method. The following [1] How to make a test piece, [2] Operation, [3] Dehydration and drying are placed on the screen mesh surface and naturally dried. The air permeability was measured using a Frazier tester. The air permeability when the temperature is adjusted to 20 ° C. × 65% RH and the air permeability at a moisture content of 50% are measured and determined by substituting them into the equation (1).
[1] How to make dough pieces
a Method Collect two test pieces of about 30 x 30 cm and draw a 20 x 20 cm square in the center to make the measurement surface. Next, the length (mm) of each of the four sides of the measurement surface and the line connecting the corresponding midpoints of the two sides is taken as the measurement reference length.
[2] Procedure A method (room temperature water immersion method) Immerse the test specimen in water at 25 ° C ± 2 ° C for 30 minutes to allow sufficient water penetration.
[3] In principle, dehydration and dry dehydration should be performed with a centrifugal dehydrator until there is almost no running water. Or press lightly to pinch the water between the cloths and dehydrate. Drying is performed by screen drying, and the test piece taken out is placed on a horizontal screen mesh surface without being wrinkled or stretched, and then naturally dried. Place the test piece on a flat table when it becomes 1.5 times its own weight (water content 50%), and measure the reference weight accurately.

(C) Sensory evaluation was performed by the following four ranks by a judge of 7 feelings and quality.
◎ Very good, ○ Good, △ Normal, × Bad

(D) Pilling
The test was carried out in accordance with JIS L1058 ICI type pilling tester method (D method).

(E) Mixing ratio Of the dissolution methods described in JIS L1030-2, evaluation was made according to the 70% sulfuric acid method.

(F) Fineness JIS L1096-8.81 a 2001).

(Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-6)
Example raw yarns of the present invention and comparative raw yarns were produced using the materials shown in Tables 1 and 2. The obtained raw yarn was subjected to Toyota Industries Corporation Air Jet Loom (AJL) and then subjected to normal dyeing. The finished fabrics were evaluated and are also shown in Tables 1 and 2. In addition, the azekura of the woven structure was the arrangement shown in FIG. In Comparative Example 6, the structure and raw yarn arrangement shown in FIG.

From Table 1, the following was confirmed. The fabrics produced in Examples 1 to 3 showed good characteristics and evaluation in each characteristic, and the overall evaluation was also high. It has also been confirmed that there is no problem in terms of raw yarn twisting, weaving and processing operations.

  On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 shown in Table 2, since the twist coefficient (K) of the yarn A and the yarn B is less than 5.0, the air permeability when wet is lower than that when dry. Moreover, although the texture also bulges, the evaluation is inferior to that of the example due to the occurrence of blurring and the like.

  In Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 5, since the maximum dough-sink number was less than 2, the rate of decrease in air permeability when wet was significantly negative compared to when dry.

  In Comparative Example 3 and Comparative Example 4, the hydrophilicity ratio of the yarn A and the yarn B is low, so that the untwisting torque at the time of wetting is not sufficient, so the air permeability change rate is negative.

  In Comparative Example 6, since the raw yarn A and the raw yarn B were not adjacent, the prescribed rate of change in air permeability could not be reached.

  The fabric of the present invention not only has a function of adjusting the air permeability in a wet state but also can be used without any trouble in terms of quality, pilling, etc., shirt, casual, sports use, office uniform use, etc. It can be widely used as a material for clothing and contributes greatly to the textile industry.

It is an example (Azekura) of the woven structure | tissue which can be applied by this invention. It is another example of the woven structure | tissue which can be applied by this invention. It is another example of the woven structure | tissue which can be applied by this invention. This is an example of an unfavorable woven structure (a plain structure). This is a woven structure used in the comparative example (yarn A and yarn B are not adjacent to each other).

Claims (3)

A fabric in which at least the yarn A, the yarn B, and the yarn C are arranged as warp and / or weft, and the yarn A and the yarn B have a twist coefficient of 5.0 or more in opposite directions. A hydrophilic yarn having a twist, and arranged in such a manner that one or a plurality of yarns are alternately adjacent to each other, and other yarn C that is a short fiber and / or a long fiber is a yarn A and / or A self-adjusting function characterized in that it is arranged as a warp and / or weft in a position parallel to and adjacent to B, and the woven fabric satisfies the air permeability change rate represented by the following formula (1). Having woven fabric.
(Air permeability change rate) = {(Air permeability β−Air permeability α) / Air permeability α} × 100 ≧ + 5.0% (1)
(However, the air permeability β represents the air permeability at 20 ° C. × 65% RH measured in accordance with JIS L1096, and the air permeability β represents the air permeability at a water content of 50%.)   The woven fabric having a self-adjusting function according to claim 1, wherein the yarn A and the yarn B contain hydrophilic fibers in a proportion of 40% by weight or more.   The woven fabric having a self-adjusting function according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the maximum number of floats of warp and / or weft is 2-6.

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