JP2006176911A - Silk fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a silk fabric having a crepe pattern of an arbitrary size and provide a method for producing a silk fabric imparted with a crepe pattern of an arbitrary size without using an embossing plate. <P>SOLUTION: The silk fabric 1 is a double cloth produced by partly bonding the front cloth 2 and the back cloth 3 to develop a prescribed pattern. The pattern is a crepe pattern protruding the non-bonded and separated part of the front cloth and the back cloth in the form of a bag. The silk fabric having a crepe pattern surface composed of flat parts and fine reticular protruded parts can be produced by weaving the front cloth and the back cloth in a manner to form bonded parts having fine reticular pattern and separated parts free from bonding both cloth sheets and shrinking the product with heat. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a silk fabric having a concavo-convex pattern on the surface and a method for producing the same.

  Conventionally, as a surface pattern to be processed into a silk fabric, a warp-like pattern is produced by scouring and weaving a strongly twisted weft and then refining the weft.

  Moreover, after weaving silk fabric, embossing is also conventionally performed by heating and pressing the fabric with a molding surface having irregularities of a predetermined pattern (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

  In general, silk fabrics are scoured to remove sericin in raw silk in order to obtain the silk's original elegant luster and texture and to enable good dyeing and printing. In that case, the folded silk fabric is hung and suspended, and the scouring liquid is fed from the upper part of the scouring pot, led out from the lower part, led again to the upper part, and circulated in the scouring pot.

After that, they are bleached and dyed.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-250078 (page 1-4, FIG. 3)

  However, it is difficult to obtain a silk fabric having a predetermined concavo-convex pattern without using a shaping surface having a predetermined concavo-convex pattern.

  Furthermore, it is difficult to immediately prepare an uneven pattern of an arbitrary size according to needs.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a silk fabric having an uneven pattern of an arbitrary size, a silk fabric having an uneven pattern of an arbitrary size, and an uneven pattern of an arbitrary size without using a shaping surface. It is providing the manufacturing method of the silk fabric which can be performed.

  In order to achieve the above object, the invention according to claim 1 is characterized in that a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns and a second yarn obtained by combining elastic yarns with the first yarn are each in a predetermined ratio. A silk fabric woven as a warp and weft of a woven fabric, and the predetermined proportion of the woven fabric structure and the woven fabric structure is a composition and a woven fabric structure according to a desired surface pattern. It is characterized in that a predetermined blistering pattern is expressed by applying heat and shrinking.

  According to the invention concerning Claim 1 which has said structure, even if it is a silk fabric, arbitrary blistering patterns can be expressed.

  The invention according to claim 2 is a silk fabric that binds a part of the outer and lining of a double woven fabric and reveals a predetermined pattern, wherein the connected fastening portion is a recess, and the outer fabric and the surface It is characterized by having a concavo-convex pattern in which a portion that is not connected to the lining and is separated from the lining is projected into a bag shape.

  According to the invention which concerns on Claim 2 which has said structure, arbitrary uneven | corrugated patterns are formed by weaving the separation part which is not connected with the connected fastening part in the double fabric which becomes arbitrary patterns. It can be set as the silk fabric which has.

  The invention according to claim 3 is characterized in that both the warp and weft weaving the outer material are woven by a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns, and both the warp and weft of the lining are elastic to the first yarn. It is woven with a second yarn that is a combination of yarns, and the outer and lining are connected in a lattice shape to form a recess, and the part of the mesh that is not connected and separated is a protrusion. It is said.

  According to the invention which concerns on Claim 3 which has said structure, it can be set as the silk fabric which has the grid-like uneven | corrugated pattern of the grid with which the grid part swelled.

  The invention according to claim 4 is characterized in that both the warp and weft of the outer material are woven with a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns, and the warp and weft of the lining are both combined with an elastic yarn to the first yarn. It is characterized in that it is woven by the second yarn that is woven, and the outer surface and the lining are connected in a grid shape to form a concave portion, and the lattice portion that is not connected and separated is a convex portion.

  According to the invention which concerns on Claim 4 which has said structure, it can be set as the silk fabric which has the grid-like uneven | corrugated pattern of the grid which the lattice part swelled.

  The invention according to claim 5 is a warp and weft in which a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns and a second yarn obtained by combining elastic yarns with the first yarn and blended at a predetermined ratio. When the fabric is woven, a double woven fabric structure having a surface and a lining is provided, and a separation portion that is not connected to a fastening portion that connects the surface and the lining in a fine lattice shape or a grid shape is provided. The method for producing a silk fabric that expresses the surface of a concavo-convex pattern having a structure in which flat portions and bulge patterns of fine grid-like or lattice-like portions are lifted by applying heat and contracting after weaving It is characterized by being.

  According to the invention which concerns on Claim 5 which has said structure, the silk which has arbitrary uneven | corrugated patterns by weaving the separation part which is not connected with the connected fastening part so that it may become arbitrary patterns. It can be set as the manufacturing method which obtains a textile fabric.

  The invention according to claim 6 is characterized in that both the warp and the weft of the outer material are composed of the first yarn, the warp and the weft of the lining are both provided with the second yarn, The ratio of the first yarn to the second yarn is 3: 1, and the ratio of the first yarn to the second yarn of the weft yarns on both sides is 2: 2. Yes.

  According to the invention according to claim 6 having the above-described configuration, the silk fabric having a composition suitable for expressing the surface of the concavo-convex pattern having a configuration in which the flat portion and the bulge pattern of the fine grid-like or lattice-like portion are raised. It can be set as a manufacturing method.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the silk fabric which has the uneven | corrugated pattern of arbitrary magnitude | sizes by arbitrary shapes can be obtained. Furthermore, the manufacturing method of the silk fabric which can provide the uneven | corrugated pattern of arbitrary magnitude | sizes can be obtained, without using a shaping surface.

  DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, embodiments of a silk fabric and a method for producing the same according to the present invention will be described in detail with reference to FIGS. 1 to 4.

  First, the silk fabric according to the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

  As shown in FIG. 1 (a), a silk fabric 1 according to the present invention is composed of a double fabric having an outer fabric 2 and a lining 3. Moreover, it is set as the structure provided with the separation | separation part 5 which is not connected with the fastening part 4 connected as a textile structure which connected a part of the said outer fabric 2 and the lining 3 together.

  FIG. 1 (b) shows a silk fabric 1A having a grid portion that is not connected and separated from each other by connecting the outer material and the lining material in a lattice shape. Therefore, the connected fastening portion 4A forms a lattice-shaped concave portion, and the separation portion 5A that is not connected forms a grid-shaped convex portion.

  FIG. 1 (c) shows a silk fabric 1B having a lattice portion that is not connected but separated from each other by connecting the outer material and the lining material like a grid. Therefore, the connected fastening portion 4B forms a grid-like concave portion, and the separation portion 5B that is not connected forms a lattice-like convex portion.

  As described above, a double woven fabric provided with the outer material 2 and the lining material 3 is used, and when the outer material 2 and the lining material 3 are connected, only a portion suitable for displaying a predetermined pattern is connected. It is a silk fabric composed of

  Furthermore, an arbitrary pattern can be produced in which the part separated without being connected is bulged, the connected fastening part is a concave part, and the separated part is not a convex part.

  In this embodiment, in order to make the separation part that is not connected to be a convex part, a first thread obtained by combining two silk threads and an elastic thread are further combined with the first thread and combined. It was set as the structure woven with the warp and the weft which mix | blended the 2nd thread | yarn in the predetermined ratio.

  When weaving a woven fabric, after wetting a weft into an opening formed by separating a number of warps vertically, a new weft is driven into an opening that is upside down of the separated warps. Repeatingly, a fabric in which warp and weft are interlaced is formed.

  In addition, a double woven fabric is formed by preparing the warp yarn and the weft yarn in a double upper and lower direction and independently performing the opening of each warp and the driving of the weft yarn. Furthermore, a double woven fabric in which a part of the double woven fabric is connected and the upper and lower fabrics are integrated is also manufactured.

  Therefore, in the present invention, in order to produce a silk fabric having a predetermined pattern, a double woven fabric structure having a front material and a lining material is used, and the outer material and the lining material are connected in a fine grid or grid pattern. After weaving so as to provide a separation part that is not connected to the fastening part, by applying heat and shrinking treatment, the blister pattern of the flat part and fine grid or grid part is raised It was set as the structure which expresses the surface of an uneven pattern.

  In addition, after weaving, the yarn constituting the lining was shrunk to emphasize the convex pattern that appeared on the outer fabric.

  For this purpose, a warp and a weft in which a first yarn Y1 obtained by combining two silk yarns and a second yarn Y2 obtained by combining an elastic yarn with the first yarn are combined in a predetermined ratio are used. The composition was woven. In addition, when weaving a double woven fabric that has a surface 2 and a lining 3 and is partially joined and fastened, the warp and weft of the lining 3 both have elastic yarns and the second yarn Y2 did.

  As the elastic yarn, for example, a polyurethane yarn is suitable. In this embodiment, a first yarn Y1 obtained by combining two silk yarns in 21 and a 50-denier polyurethane yarn in addition to the first yarn Y1. It is set as the structure woven with the combined 2nd yarn Y2.

  That is, the warp and the weft of the outer fabric 2 are both the first yarn Y1, and the warp and the weft of the backing 3 are both provided with the second yarn Y2.

  For this purpose, after the surface material 2 and the lining material 3 are woven so as to provide a fastening portion that is connected in a fine lattice shape or a grid shape, and a separation portion that is not connected is provided, heat is applied to perform a shrinkage treatment. Thus, the lining 3 is uniformly shrunk to form a flat portion, and the surface 2 that is not shrunk or has a small degree of shrinkage is inflated, and a concavo-convex pattern in which a fine grid-like or grid-like blister pattern is raised The surface of can be expressed.

  As preparation for weaving, first, the first yarn Y1 is manufactured by combining the two single yarns 21 while twisting them. Further, a 50-denier polyurethane yarn is further added to the first yarn Y1 while twisting to produce a second yarn Y2.

  Then, weaving is performed using the first yarn Y1 and the second yarn Y2, and a predetermined double woven fabric having a knitted structure including a surface and a lining and a part of which are joined together is woven. Thereafter, preliminary shrinkage is performed to stabilize the fabric structure, impurities and sericin are removed and bleached by a scouring process, and press setting is performed at a predetermined temperature so as to obtain a predetermined cloth width. After that, dyeing and final finishing.

  The flow of each process described above will be described with reference to the flowchart shown in FIG.

  First, desired yarns Y1 (silk yarn) and Y2 (silk yarn + elastic yarn) are manufactured by a twisting process. Then, in the weaving process, a double woven fabric having a desired woven structure having a warp and weft density of about 50 / cm and a weaving width (cloth width) of 180 cm is woven. Then, pre-contraction and scouring of the woven fabric is performed. The cloth width shrinks from 180 cm to 120 cm by the preliminary shrinkage that is performed by hot water immersion and hot air drying. During the hot air drying, a predetermined tension is applied in the cloth width direction.

  The above-mentioned scouring employs a scouring method in which a woven fabric is folded to an appropriate length, several places are bound with a thread, a hanging tie is attached to the scouring tank, and the scouring is carried out in a scouring tank. For this scouring, a known method such as a scouring solution such as soap soda kneading, soap kneading, soda kneading, enzyme kneading or the like is used.

  As the above-described scouring step, scouring multiple times at an appropriate temperature in an appropriate scouring solution, for example, the first time is 40 ° C. for 40 minutes, the second time is 98 ° C. for 80 minutes, and the third time is 98 After scouring at 90 ° C. for 60 minutes at the fourth time, dehydration and press setting (185 ° C.) are performed. By pressing the cloth with an appropriate pressure, the width of the cloth becomes 120 cm to 144 cm.

  Impurities and sericin are removed by scouring and bleaching is performed, followed by dyeing and final finishing. Dehydration and hot air drying are also performed during dyeing, but temperature control and tension control in the width direction of the cloth are also important here. In the present embodiment, hot air drying is performed at 188 ° C., and tension is applied to maintain a cloth width of 144 cm.

  Further, in the final finishing step, the shrinkage is performed by applying steam, and the cloth width is from 144 cm to 120 cm.

  That is, the second yarn Y2 having an elastic yarn is contracted in a finishing process after scouring and dyeing a silk fabric woven to a weaving width of 180 cm to have a concavo-convex pattern having a fabric width of 120 cm. Manufactures silk fabrics.

  In FIG. 3, the outline | summary of the preliminary shrinkage | contraction process is shown, (a) shows a warm water process, (b) has shown the hot-air drying process. As shown in FIG. 3 (a), the woven silk fabric 1 is pulled out from the weaving beam 10 raised on the loom, and is immersed in a hot water bath 20 at 50 ° C. and stored so as to be folded in the preliminary contracting cart 30. .

  Further, as shown in FIG. 3 (b), the silk fabric 1 stored in the preliminary contracting cart 30 is passed through a hot air drying furnace 40 at 120 ° C., preliminarily contracted, and folded into the storage cart 50. Store in.

  As described above, after the silk fabric 1 wound around the weaving beam 10 is folded and stored in the storage cart 50, it is divided into fabrics of a predetermined length and subjected to scouring, dyeing, and final finishing.

  A total of 17260 warp beams including a total of 13260 first yarns Y1 and 4360 second yarns Y2 as a total of the warp yarns for the outer material and the lining material are used as the warp yarns. FIG. 4 shows an example in which the yarn Y1 and the second yarn Y2 are driven in order at a density of 50 yarns / cm, and a silk fabric having a weaving density of 50 yarns / cm is woven. That is, since the first yarn Y1 is 13260 out of the total number of warps of 17620, the ratio of the first yarn to the second yarn of the warp yarns on both the front and back surfaces is 3: 1. Further, the ratio of the first yarn and the second yarn of the wefts on both the front and back surfaces is the same, and is 2: 2.

  FIG. 4 shows an example of a silk fabric 1Aa in which the outer fabric and the lining are connected in a lattice shape to form a recess, and the portion of the mesh that is not connected and separated is a projection.

  4 (a) is a partial plan view, FIG. 4 (b) is a cross-sectional view taken along the line AA of FIG. 4 (c), and FIG. 4 (c) is a plane substituted for a photograph of a silk fabric actually manufactured. The figure is shown.

  As can be seen from these figures, by weaving using a warp and weft with a predetermined ratio of the first yarn made of silk and the second yarn containing elastic yarn, we can create a fine grid pattern on the grid. The silk fabric 1Aa can be woven. Further, the concave and convex portion 3a having the concave and convex pattern is a fastening portion where the outer surface and the lining are connected, and the convex portion 2a is a separation portion where the outer surface and the lining are not connected. This pattern can be easily changed in size and shape by changing the positional relationship between the fastening portion and the separation portion, and according to the present invention, a silk fabric having an arbitrary uneven pattern can be manufactured. It becomes.

  In general, when weaving a woven fabric, a predetermined organization chart for obtaining a predetermined pattern is created. It is an organization chart showing the crossed state of warps and wefts, and is a diagram showing a predetermined surface structure, a lining structure, and a fastening part structure connecting the front and back. For that purpose, create a structure chart according to the desired pattern, move the warp up and down along this structure chart, select and thread each of the multiple wrinkles that open, and sequentially drive the weft Thus, a woven fabric showing a predetermined pattern can be woven.

  Therefore, when weaving a thin silk fabric, a single fabric configuration may be used, and when weaving a thick silk fabric, a double fabric configuration may be used. In addition, the thickness and texture of the fabric can be adjusted by adjusting the warp and weft yarn types and the thickness of the yarn. Moreover, according to this invention, even if it is a thin silk fabric or a thick silk fabric, an arbitrary blistering pattern can be revealed.

  As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a silk fabric having an orderly concavo-convex pattern, which has been difficult in the past. Furthermore, the elastic yarn that has been woven in advance at the time of weaving is shrunk in the finishing process to reveal the desired pattern, so that an uneven pattern of any size and any shape can be used without using a shaping surface. It is a method for producing a silk fabric that can obtain a silk fabric having a fragrance, and is very effective in the silk fabric industry.

The silk fabric which concerns on this invention is shown, (a) is sectional drawing, (b) is a top view of the silk fabric which has a grid | lattice-like fastening part, (c) has a grid-like fastening part It is a top view of a silk fabric. It is a flowchart which shows the manufacturing process of the silk fabric which concerns on this invention. The outline | summary of a preliminary shrinkage | contraction process is shown, (a) shows a warm water process, (b) has shown the hot-air drying process. An example of a silk fabric is shown, (a) is a partial plan view, b) is a cross-sectional view taken along the line AA in the previous diagram, and (c) is a plan view of the actually produced silk fabric (photo substitute) ).

Explanation of symbols

1 Silk fabric
1A Silk fabric (with concavo-convex pattern with bulges)
1B Silk fabric (with concavo-convex pattern with bulging lattice)
2 Outer
3 Lining
4 Fastening part
5 Separation part
Y1 first thread
Y2 Second thread

Claims (6)

A silk fabric woven as a warp and weft of a woven fabric by blending a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns and a second yarn obtained by combining an elastic yarn with the first yarn in a predetermined ratio. And
The composition of the predetermined ratio and the woven fabric structure to be woven are a composition and a woven structure according to the desired surface pattern. After weaving, heat is applied and shrinking treatment is performed to express a predetermined blister pattern. A silk fabric characterized by   A silk fabric that binds a part of the outer and lining of a double woven fabric to reveal a predetermined pattern, wherein the connected fastening portion is a recess, and the outer and lining are connected. A silk fabric characterized in that it has a concavo-convex pattern in which the part that has been separated is projected into a bag shape.   The warp and weft weaving the outer fabric are woven together with a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns, and the warp and weft of the lining are both woven together with the first yarn and an elastic yarn. The woven fabric is formed by a yarn, the outer surface and the lining are connected in a lattice shape to form a concave portion, and the part of the mesh that is not connected and separated is a convex portion. Silk fabric.   Both the warp and weft of the outer material are woven with a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns, and both the warp and weft of the lining material are woven with a second yarn obtained by combining elastic yarn with the first yarn. 3. The silk fabric according to claim 2, wherein the silk fabric is formed by connecting the outer material and the lining material in a grid shape to form a concave portion, and the lattice portion which is not connected and separated is a convex portion.   When weaving a warp and a weft blended in a predetermined ratio with a first yarn obtained by combining two silk yarns and a second yarn obtained by combining an elastic yarn with the first yarn, A double woven fabric structure having a surface and a lining, and after weaving so as to provide a separation portion that is not connected to a fastening portion that connects the surface and the lining in a fine grid or grid shape, A method for producing a silk fabric, characterized in that a surface of a concavo-convex pattern having a structure in which a blister pattern of a flat portion and a fine grid-like or lattice-like portion is raised is developed by applying a shrinkage treatment. Both the front warp and the weft are made of the first yarn, the back warp and the weft are both provided with the second yarn, and the first and second warps of the front and back surfaces are both 6. The silk according to claim 5, wherein a ratio of the first thread to the second thread is 2: 2, and a ratio of the first thread to the second thread of the wefts on both the front and back surfaces is 2: 2. A method for producing a woven fabric.

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