JP2006069937A - Solid powder cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a solid powder cosmetic having good attachment to small tools such as sponge and mat and smoothly spreading when used and excellent in finish and appearance and glossiness (feeling of pearl) and having good formability and excellent in impact resistance. <P>SOLUTION: The solid powder cosmetic is obtained by formulating solid oil powder atomized by a method vaporizing into a gas with brilliant powder. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic characterized by blending a solid oil powder atomized by a gas evaporation method and a glitter powder, and more particularly, a sponge, a mat or the like at the time of use. The present invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic that is easy to remove into a prop, smoothly spreads and spreads, has an excellent finish and appearance gloss (pearly feeling), has good moldability, and has high impact resistance.

  Solid powder cosmetics are cosmetics that are generally compression-molded into a dish-like container and mounted on a compact container, and because of their good portability, they are widely used in makeup cosmetics such as foundations and eye shadows. The dosage form. And since solid powder cosmetics are carried in handbags etc., if the impact resistance of the molded product is poor, the molded product will crack or collapse, so the impact resistance is not at a guaranteed level. Don't be. In addition, solid powder cosmetics are used by scraping the surface of the molded product with a prop and applying it to the skin, so the feeling of use on the prop, the feeling of application on the skin, etc. is an important quality of the product. Yes.

  Such powder cosmetics are usually dispersed by adding an oil agent to a powder system composed of color pigments, extender pigments, glitter pigments, etc., and compression-molded into a metal or resin dish-like container such as aluminum. Is. As a method of filling and molding solid powder cosmetics, a method (so-called press molding method) in which a cosmetic base material containing powder as a main component is filled in a dish-like container and this is compression-molded has been generally used. . In this press molding method, depending on the composition of the cosmetic base material, there may be problems of molding defects such as reduced impact resistance, peeling, and chipping. It was necessary to carry out a study. In order to solve the problems of the press molding method and to improve the impact resistance of the solid powder cosmetic in the press molding method, a method using a powdered wax (for example, see Patent Document 1) and the like have been developed and applied. It has been.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-18011

  However, in the method using the powdery wax described in Patent Document 1, particularly when a lot of glitter powder that is difficult to be compression-molded as a powder is blended, the impact resistance due to molding failure may be inferior, In order to obtain sufficient impact resistance, it is necessary to increase the amount of powdered wax or reduce the glitter powder, and as a result, the smooth elongation spread, the finish and the appearance gloss of the cosmetics may be significantly impaired. there were. Moreover, smooth elongation spread may worsen due to the shape of the powdery wax. Incidentally, Patent Document 1 only describes an example having the smallest particle diameter of 4 μm, and does not completely describe a specific method for preparing a powdery wax of 0.1 μm or less and its effect. Not.

  For this reason, there has been a demand for the development of a technique for improving the impact resistance of a solid powder cosmetic containing a large amount of glittering powder, which has a smooth spread and spread, excellent finish and appearance gloss of the cosmetic, and the like.

  In view of such a situation, the present inventors have intensively studied, and as a binder, by using a solid oil powder atomized by a gas evaporation method, it is possible to take a small tool such as a sponge or a mat at the time of use, The present invention was completed by finding that a solid powder cosmetic material that can smoothly spread and spread, has an excellent finish and appearance gloss (pearly feeling), has good moldability, and has high impact resistance can be obtained.

That is, the present invention comprises the following components (a) and (b):
(A) A solid powder cosmetic comprising a solid oil powder atomized by a gas evaporation method and (b) a glittering powder is provided.

  The solid powder cosmetic of the present invention can be easily taken into props such as sponges and mats when used, smoothly spreads and spreads, has excellent finish and cosmetic appearance gloss (pearly feeling), and improves moldability. It is a solid powder cosmetic with excellent impact resistance.

  The solid oil powder of component (a) used in the present invention is atomized by a gas evaporation method. In this gas evaporation method, solid oil is obtained by heating and evaporating solid oil in a vacuum vessel into which an inert gas is introduced, and cooling and condensing the resulting vapor in the inert gas. Is the method. As this method, a resistance heating method, a plasma jet heating method, an induction heating method, an electron beam heating method, a laser beam heating method, a sputtering heating method, and the like are known depending on the heating method. Examples of the inert gas used in the gas evaporation method include helium, argon, and nitrogen. The degree of vacuum in the gas evaporation method is preferably 10 Torr or less.

  Conventional methods for atomizing solid oil include (1) mechanical pulverization method such as jet mizer, (2) method of dissolving solid oil in a solvent and spray drying this, and (3) microemulsion of solid oil And (4) a method of precipitating solid oil in liquid form. However, with these conventional methods, it has been very difficult to reduce the average particle size to 1 μm or less. In addition, the most widely used (1) particles obtained by the mechanical pulverization method have the disadvantage that the shape becomes indeterminate and the spread on the skin is not good when blended with solid powder cosmetics. It was.

  The shape of the solid oil powder atomized by the gas evaporation method used in the present invention has a rounded particle, and therefore, when blended with a solid powder cosmetic, the smooth elongation spread on the skin is very It becomes good.

  Since the particle size of the solid oil powder in the gas evaporation method used in the present invention is affected by the pressure in the vacuum vessel, by controlling this, a powder having a target particle size can be obtained. Further, it is preferable to previously measure the relationship between the particle diameter and the pressure for each substance, and obtain a calibration curve based on the measurement. In general, the particle size of the solid oil powder obtained when the inert gas pressure is within the range of 0.01 Toor to 10 Toor varies in the range of about 50 to 4000 nm, and the smaller the inert gas pressure (ie, the higher the degree of vacuum), the more A powder having a small diameter can be obtained.

  The solid oil powder atomized by the gas evaporation method used in the present invention can solve the above-described conventional problems and drawbacks, and also has an effect that the solid oil can be purified by its melting point. In cosmetics, it is preferable to remove impurities from the ingredients as much as possible because they cause undesirable phenomena such as discoloration and odor due to the progress of the oxidation reaction over time and irritation to the skin. In the gas evaporation method, it is possible to remove substances having an unfavorable melting point range by controlling the heating conditions, and the atomized solid oil powder is also purified.

  The solid oil that is atomized by the gas evaporation method used in the present invention is an oil agent that is solid at room temperature and is blended in ordinary cosmetics. Specifically, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene propylene copolymer, synthetic hydrocarbon wax, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, shellac, whale wax, synthetic gay wax, beeswax, montan wax, ozokerite, ceresin wax , Paraffin wax, stearic acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, silicone wax, fluorine-containing wax, and the like. One or more of these can be used. In this invention, the solid oil powder which improves a moldability more can be obtained by selecting solid oil whose melting | fusing point is 85-125 degreeC among these oil agents.

  The blending amount of the component (a) in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), and particularly 0.5 to 5%. preferable. When component (a) is blended in this range, a solid powder cosmetic with good take-off and good moldability can be obtained while maintaining a smooth spread.

  The glittering powder of component (b) used in the present invention is a powder having a pearly feeling and an interference color, such as titanium oxide-coated glass powder, titanium oxide-treated synthetic phlogopite, titanium oxide-coated mica, and titanium oxide. Coated oxybismuth, iron oxide mica titanium, bituminized mica titanium, carmine treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, iron oxide coated mica, organic pigment treated mica titanium, aluminum powder, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, polyethylene Examples thereof include terephthalate / polymethylmethacrylate laminated film powder, silicic acid anhydride / Bengara-treated aluminum powder powder, and the like.

  These glittering powders preferably have a particle size of 20 μm to 2 mm, and can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required. Further, the surface of the glittering powder is subjected to conventionally known methods such as oil agent treatment, silicone compound treatment, fluorine compound treatment, metal soap treatment, surfactant treatment, amino acid compound treatment, and water-soluble polymer treatment. You may use it.

  1.0% -50% is preferable and, as for the compounding quantity of the component (b) in the solid powder cosmetics of this invention, 5.0-45% is especially preferable. When the component (b) is blended in this range, a solid powder cosmetic having a good finish and a cosmetic appearance gloss can be obtained.

  Furthermore, it is preferable to mix | blend the said component (a) and the said component (b) by the ratio of (a) / (b) = 0.2-10, and 0.3-5 are especially preferable. By blending (a) / (b) within this range, the take-off to props is good, the smooth spread and spread, the finish and the appearance gloss of the cosmetics are maintained, and the solid powder with improved moldability Cosmetics can be obtained.

  In addition to the above components, other powders can be blended in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention. Powders that can be blended in the present invention are used for purposes such as colorants, masking agents (makeup effects), feel modifiers, excipients, UV screening agents, etc., and are powders used in ordinary cosmetics. It is not particularly limited by the shape of plates, spheres, needles, etc., the shape of fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., the structure of particles such as porous and nonporous, inorganic powders, Organic powders, pigment powders, composite powders and the like can be mentioned. Specifically, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silicic anhydride, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide , Chromium hydroxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, boron nitride and other inorganic powders, nylon, Polymethyl methacrylate, polyalkyl acrylate, organopolysiloxane elastomer, polymethyl sesquioxane, cross-linked silicone / network silicone block copolymer, polystyrene, acrylonitrile-methacrylic acid copolymer, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid Polymer, polyethylene, urethane, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose powder, organic powders such as N-acyl lysine powder, organic tar pigments, pigment powders such as organic pigment lake pigments, fine particle titanium oxide coating Examples include mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicic acid anhydride, zinc oxide-containing silicic acid complex powder, and the like, and one or more of these may be used. it can. Note that these powders may be used after being surface-treated with a generally known treating agent such as a fluorine compound, a silicone compound, or a surfactant.

  The blending amount of these powders in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 60 to 99%.

  In addition to the above-mentioned components, the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention includes oils, surfactants, oil gelling agents, water-soluble polymers, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid and the like as components used in ordinary cosmetics. A soluble film-forming agent, an aqueous component, a paraoxybenzoic acid derivative, a preservative such as phenoxyethanol, vitamins, cosmetic ingredients, a fragrance, and the like can be appropriately blended within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention.

  The oil agent that can be blended in the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is used as a feel modifier, a binder between powders, an adhesion improver to the skin, and the like. Such an oil agent may be any one used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, liquid paraffin, squalane. , Hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, polyisobutylene, polybutene, natural waxes such as carnauba wax, beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla, glyceryl tribehenate, pentaerythritol ester of rosin acid, jojoba oil, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, Esters such as glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl isostearate and dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, fatty acids such as stearic acid and behenic acid, cetanol, Higher alcohols such as tearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, oils and fats such as olive oil, castor oil, mink oil and owl, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl and lanolin alcohol, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl, behenyl, Examples thereof include amino acid derivatives such as octyldodecyl) and fluorine-based oils such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, and perfluorooctane. One or more of these can be used.

  The method for producing the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the components (a) and (b) and other powders are dispersed and mixed, and if necessary, oils and other components are mixed. Examples thereof include a method of adding, uniformly dispersing, and filling and molding this into a metal or resin dish-like container. In addition, as a method of filling and molding the dish-shaped container, any of a method of compression molding (press molding), a method of filling slurry using a solvent, and the like may be used.

  The solid powder cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as a foundation, white powder, blusher, lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow, and concealer. In addition to the cake shape, the solid powder cosmetic of the present invention may be formed into a variety of three-dimensional shapes such as a dome shape, a spherical shape, a hemispherical shape, a conical shape, a pyramid shape, a diamond cut shape, and a stick shape. Can do.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

Production Example 1 of Solid Oil Powder
A polyethylene wax having a melting point of 88 ° C. (PERFORMALEN 500: manufactured by New Phase Technology Co., Ltd.) is placed in a quartz crucible wrapped with a Ta heater, heated to 200-240 ° C. in an atmosphere of 1 Torr of helium gas, and the evaporated wax is removed from the crucible. A solid oil powder having an average particle size of 220 nm (laser scattering type particle size distribution measuring method) was obtained by adhering to an aluminum foil placed on top and collecting the aluminum foil. The particles of the solid oil powder were uniform and rounded by observation with an electron microscope.

Production Example 2 of Solid Oil Powder:
In the same manner as in Production Example 1, a Fischer-Tropsch wax having a melting point of 120 ° C. (Sazol Wax H1: manufactured by Sazol Co., Ltd.) was heated at 170 to 530 ° C. An oil powder was obtained. In addition, as shown in the electron micrograph of FIG. 1, the particle | grain end surface of this solid oil powder particle | grain was roundish.

Production comparison example 1 of solid oil powder
Fine oil pulverization was performed with a Fischer-Tropsch wax having a melting point of 120 ° C. (Sasol Wax H1: manufactured by Sasol) single track jet mill to obtain a solid oil powder having an average particle diameter of 3 μm (laser diffraction particle size distribution measuring method). The particles of the solid oil powder were indefinite as shown in the electron microscopic observation photograph of FIG.

Invention products 1-7 and comparative products 1-3: Powder foundation (cake-like)
A powder foundation having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared by the manufacturing method shown below, and “the degree of removal to the mat”, “smooth extension and spread”, “finish glossiness”, “cosmetic appearance gloss”, “ “Impact resistance” was evaluated by the following evaluation methods and criteria, and the results are shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-12 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Miike).
B. Ingredients 13-15 are heated and uniformly dispersed.
C. While stirring A with a Henschel mixer, B and component 16 are added and dispersed uniformly.
D. C is pulverized with a pulverizer.
E. D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a powder foundation.

(Evaluation Method 1): “Degree of removal to mat” “Smooth stretch and spread” “Glossiness of finish” “Glossiness of appearance of cosmetics”
20 panelists specializing in cosmetics evaluation use the powder foundations of the above examples and comparative examples. Each of them was evaluated on the basis of the following evaluation criteria, and a score was assigned to each sample. Further, the average score of all the panels was determined according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
(Evaluation): (Contents)
6: Very good 5: Good 4: Somewhat good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad
1: Bad.
0: Very bad.
(Criteria)
(Average score): (Evaluation)
5.0 or more: ◎ (very good)
3.5 or more and less than 5.0: ○ (good)
1.0 or more and less than 3.5: △ (Normal)
Less than 1.0: × (defect)

(Evaluation Method 2): “Impact resistance”
Prepare 5 powder foundations for each of the above examples and comparative examples, and with the metal pan filled, let it fall freely on an acrylic plate in an upright direction from a height of 50 cm, and observe the surface condition after dropping. Each foundation was scored according to the following evaluation criteria, the average score of the scores for each sample was calculated, and judged according to the following four criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
(Evaluation): (Contents)
No change: 4
Slightly cracked but no problem with usability: 3
Cracks and gaps: 2
There are large cracks and gaps: 1
(Criteria)
(Average score): (Evaluation)
3.5 or more: ◎
3.0 or more to less than 3.5: ○
2.0 or more and less than 3.0: △
Less than 2.0: ×

  As is apparent from the results in Table 1, the powder foundations of the products 1 to 7 of the present invention have a “matte removal”, “smooth extension and spread”, “finish glossiness”, and “cosmetic appearance glossiness”. ”And“ impact resistance ”, the solid powder cosmetic was excellent. On the other hand, the powder foundation of Comparative Product 1 in which no solid oil powder was blended as a binder was inferior in impact resistance. Moreover, the powder foundation of the comparative product 2 which mix | blended the solid oil powder obtained by the manufacture comparison example 1 of the mechanical grinding method which is a prior art was inferior to the mat | matte, and the smooth expansion | swelling expansion was not obtained. . And the powder foundation of the comparative product 3 which did not mix | blend glittering powder was not able to obtain the glossiness of a finish, and the external appearance glossiness of cosmetics.

Face color (cake-like)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Synthetic gold mica treated with dimethylpolysiloxane (average particle size 20 μm, aspect ratio 40) 5.0
2. 2. Silicone-treated talc Production 1 solid oil powder 4.0
4). Titanium oxide coated mica 45.0
5. Titanium oxide coated glass powder (Note 1) 5.0
6). Red 226 0.5
7). Ultramarine 0.2
8). Preservative appropriate amount 9. Squalane 3.0
10. Glyceryl trioctanoate 3.0
11. Perfume

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-8 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Miike).
B. Ingredients 9-11 are heated and uniformly dispersed.
C. While A is being stirred with a Henschel mixer, B is added and dispersed uniformly.
D. C is pulverized with a pulverizer.
E. D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain a face color.
The face color of Example 2 is a solid powder cosmetic that is excellent in all items of “degree of removal to mat”, “smooth extension and spread”, “finish glossiness”, and “appearance glossiness of cosmetics”. there were.

Eye shadow (cake shape)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Synthetic gold mica treated with dimethylpolysiloxane (average particle size 15 μm, aspect ratio 60) 20.0
2. 2. Silicone-treated talc Titanium oxide coated mica 30.0
4). Boron nitride 5.0
5. Polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder 5.0
6). Solid oil powder of Production Example 2 3.0
7). Ultramarine 2.0
8). Yellow 401 0.5
9. Cross-linked silicone / network silicone copolymer (Note 3) 1.0
10. Preservative appropriate amount11. Liquid paraffin 2.0
12 Vaseline 1.0
13. Dimethylpolysiloxane (cs) 3.0
14 Perfume appropriate amount Note 3: KSP-100, KSP-300 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-10 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer (Mitsui Miike).
B. Ingredients 11-14 are heated and uniformly dispersed.
C. While A is being stirred with a Henschel mixer, B is added and dispersed uniformly.
D. C is pulverized with a pulverizer.
E. D was filled in a metal pan and compression molded to obtain an eye shadow.
The eye shadow of Example 3 was a solid powder cosmetic excellent in all items of “smooth stretch spread”, “finish glossiness”, and “cosmetic appearance gloss”.

Electron micrograph of solid oil powder of Production Example 2 Electron micrograph of solid oil powder of Production Comparative Example 1

Claims (3)

The following components (a) and (b);
(A) Solid oil powder atomized by gas evaporation method and (b) Bright powder, blended with powder solid cosmetic.   The solid powder makeup according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the solid oil powder of the component (a) is 0.1 to 10% by mass, and the amount of the glittering powder of (b) is 1.0 to 50% by mass. Fee.   A solid powder cosmetic, wherein a blending ratio of the components (a) and (b) is (a) / (b) = 0.2-10.