JP2005112786A - Melanin production promoter comprising curcumin derivative and utilization thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a highly safe melanin production promoter having activities for promoting biosynthesis of melanin; and to provide a composition for melanization of the skin, a composition for preventing gray hair, a protective agent against skin damage by ultraviolet rays, and a cosmetic for promoting the melanin production, containing the promoter. <P>SOLUTION: It is discovered that a curcumin derivative has an effective melanin production-promoting effect. The curcumin derivative is derived from a plant and it is confirmed that the curcumin derivative is the melanin production promoter exhibiting extremely high safety. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a melanin production promoter, a tyrosinase activity promoter containing the same, a cosmetic, a composition for darkening skin, a composition for preventing gray hair, and a protective agent against skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays.

  The color of human skin and hair is determined by the amount of pigment melanin in the skin and hair. Melanin is biosynthesized from tyrosine by the enzyme tyrosinase in pigment cells (melanocytes) present in the hair bulb of the skin and hair. Turns brown and the hair turns black.

  Melanin also has an aspect of UV protection. In recent years, destruction of the ozone layer has progressed in the polar regions, ultraviolet rays have increased, and skin cancer has been increasing in Europe and Australia. In the future, we believe that substances that promote the production of melanin without receiving ultraviolet rays will be important as preventive agents for skin cancer.

  In recent years, there are many young people who want brown skin regardless of gender, and it is popular to seek sun bathing or receive ultraviolet irradiation indoors. In Europe and the United States, self-tanning agents based on dihydroxyacetone have become popular. This is the current situation.

  Such excessive UV irradiation may cause serious damage to the skin and may lead to the development of skin cancer.Self-tanning agents also brown the skin due to the Maillard reaction of the stratum corneum. There were safety problems such as a decrease in stability and UV protection.

  In addition, it is widely accepted that aging due to aging causes melanin in hair to remarkably decrease and turn white. Hair dyes are used to conceal graying, which is a kind of aging phenomenon. The effect of the hair coloring is temporary, and there are problems such as the necessity of repeating the hair coloring and the occurrence of dermatitis due to coloring and drugs. Therefore, the development of a drug that works on the melanin production mechanism to improve gray hair has been desired.

  Examples of such melanin production promoters include skin darkening compositions and white hair prevention compositions that utilize the melanocyte activating action and tyrosinase activity promoting action of dihydrolupeol derivatives. (See Patent Document 1)

  Moreover, there are examples of melanin production promoters and white hair improving agents containing plant extracts selected from ginseng, ginseng, Tanjin, yucca, loquat, goldfish, and salsa. (See Patent Document 2)

    As another example, there is an example of a melanin production promoter containing a seaweed extract selected from the genus Rubegusa and Amygusa, and an external preparation for skin and hair containing the same. (Refer patent document 3) etc. are disclosed.

  On the other hand, examples of using hydroxycurcuminoid, which is a mixture of curcumin derivatives, are used to control the cross-linking of random intracellular proteins, enhance intracellular transglutaminase activity, and reduce “aging group” by lipofuscin formation. And tetrahydrocurcuminoids. (See Patent Document 4)

However, it is not known that the curcumin derivative of the perennial turmeric pigment component of the ginger family turmeric genus contains a component that promotes the production of melanin, and the curcumin derivative is an external preparation for skin cancer prevention. In addition, no attempt has been made so far to blend into a topical hair preparation for the purpose of improving gray hair and a self-tanning agent for the purpose of obtaining brown skin without the adverse effects of ultraviolet rays. Thus, the present situation is that a highly safe self-tanning agent is required.
JP 2002-003381 A JP 2001-288098 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-330218 Special Table 2002-541205

  An object of the present invention is to provide a highly safe melanin production promoter having an action of promoting melanin biosynthesis, a composition for darkening skin, a composition for preventing gray hair containing the same, and an ultraviolet ray skin disorder. It is to provide a protective agent and a cosmetic material for promoting melanin production.

The present inventors have found an effective melanin production promoting effect on curcumin derivatives.
The curcumin derivative was derived from a plant, and it was confirmed that it was a highly safe melanin production promoter, thus completing the present invention.

  The melanin production promoter comprising the curcumin derivative of the present invention as an active ingredient is used as a melanin production promoting cosmetic, skin darkening composition, white hair prevention composition, and protective agent against UV-induced skin damage. There are advantages that can be made.

Examples of the curcumin derivative include dimethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrodimethoxycurcumin, bisdimethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrobisdimethoxycurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcumin. Of these, tetrahydrocurcuminoid is preferred.
The tetrahydrocurcuminoid has a structure represented by the following general formulas (1), (2) and (3).

(1) Tetrahydrocumin
(2) Tetrahydrodeoxycurcumin
(3) Tetrahydrobisdeoxycurcumin
These are three kinds of curcumin derivatives represented by:

  As will be described later, the curcumin derivative is effective as a melanin production promoter because it has a function of promoting melanin production. The curcumin derivative contains it and is applied as a cosmetic agent such as a melanin production accelerator, a composition for darkening skin, a composition for preventing gray hair, and a protective agent against skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays. In blending into the composition, a combination of three kinds as curcumin derivatives is preferred. In particular, a mixture of three tetrahydrocurcuminoids (tetrahydrocurcumin 75.0-85.0 wt%, tetrahydrodimethoxycurcumin 10.0-20.0 wt%, tetrahydrobisdimethoxycurcumin 2.0-4.5 wt% Most preferred is a mixture comprising A commercially available product can be used as the curcumin derivative. Commercially available products include, for example, Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Curcuma longa) manufactured by Savinsa Corporation.

  The content of the curcumin derivative is preferably 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, particularly 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, in the composition.

  Hereinafter, although a manufacture example, an Example, and a comparative example are shown and utilization as a melanin production promoter of tetrahydrohydrocurcuminoid is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not restrict | limited to the following Example.

Test samples were prepared based on the composition shown in (Table 1), and the effects of melanin production inhibition by photographic determination shown below and the melanin production promoting effect of B16 mouse melanoma strain F0 were determined.
(1) Test sample
Tetrahydrocurcumin (10% solution prepared in 99.5% ethanol and added to the medium)
(2) Method for determining inhibition of melanin production
B16 mouse melanoma strain F0 (B16F0) was seeded in a 6-well plate (4.0 × 10 ⁴ cell, D-MEM containing 5% FBS). The next day, the medium was changed to a sample-containing medium. After continuous culture for 6 days, the cells were washed with PBS and detached with trypsin to prepare a cell pellet. The color tone of the cell pellet was scored by visual judgment (5-level score: 1 white-5 black). Subsequently, quantification of melanin and protein by BCA method were performed.
(Results) Effect of inhibition of melanin production by photographic evaluation The left two control (water) in the photo below, significant in the bottom of the right three centrifuge tubes in the range of Tetrahydrocurcumin concentration (3.125-12.5μg / ml) compared to sodium lactate aqueous solution Was observed to promote melanin production.

Quantification of melanin and protein by BCA method

From the results of (Table 1), Tetrahydrocurcumin was found to promote melanin production by B16 mouse melanoma F0 strain.
Next, a skin darkening cream was prepared based on the following composition, and evaluation was performed by the following stability test and sensory test. The evaluation results are also shown in Table 2.
<Stability test method>
The changes over time when each material was stored at 45 ° C. for 1 month were evaluated according to the following criteria.
◎: No decrease in viscosity or separation ○: Although there is a decrease in viscosity but is not separated △: A decrease in viscosity occurs and is slightly separated ×: A decrease in viscosity occurs and is separated
<Sensory test method>
Twenty-five professional panelists evaluated the touch when each material was applied to the face, and the uniformity of coloring after 6 hours (non-uniformity) and coloring color in the following five levels, and determined the average score. 4.0 or more was marked with ◎, 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 was marked with ◯, 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 were marked with Δ, and less than 2.0 was marked with ×.
(Feel)
5: very favorable 4: preferred 3: not good 2: not preferred 1: very bad (uniformity)
5: Uniform.
4: Slightly uniform.
3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly non-uniform 1: Non-uniform (color)
5: Natural.
4: Slightly natural.
3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly unnatural 1: Unnatural In addition, according to the composition shown in Table 2 below, the skins of Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were confirmed in the product system. A blackening cream was prepared. The prescription and manufacturing method are as follows.

(1) POE (40) monostearic acid 2.0%
(2) Self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate 5.0
(3) Stearic acid 2.0
(4) Cetanol 2.0
(5) Squalane 12.0
(6) Liquid paraffin 4.0
(7) Methyl polysiloxane (300 cSt) 0.2
(8) Preservative Appropriate amount (9) Melanin production promoter Component and amount shown in Table 2 (10) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0
(11) Purified water balance (12) Fragrance 0.3
Production method: Oil phase components (1) to (9) are heated and mixed at 80 ° C., and water phase components (10) to (11) heated to 80 ° C. under stirring are added to emulsify, and then (12) is added. And then cooled to room temperature with stirring.

  From Table 2 above, the skin blackening creams of Examples 2 to 4 that satisfy the constituent requirements of the present invention were excellent in stability, colored the skin evenly, and imparted a natural hue. On the other hand, the skin blackening creams of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 other than the constituent requirements of the present invention were inferior in the coloration uniformity and the effect of imparting a natural hue, and inferior in stability and feel.

Furthermore, in Example 5, the effect of improving gray hair was evaluated by a sensory test.
<Sensory test method>
A group of 15 panelists who are concerned about gray hair. Using the data of Example 5 twice a day on the head, the white hair improvement effect after continuous use for 3 months is as follows. The average score was determined as ◎, 4.0 or higher as ◎, 3.0 or higher and lower than 4.0 as ○, 2.0 or higher and lower than 3.0 as Δ, and less than 2.0 as ×.
(Uniformity)
5: White hair decreased.
4: Gray hair slightly decreased.
3: Same as before use.
2: White hair increased slightly.
1: Gray hair increased.

Hair tonic for white hair prevention (1) 95% ethanol 75.0%
(2) Hardened castor oil EO (40) 0.5
(3) Fragrance 0.2
(4) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0
(5) Tetrahydrhydrocurcuminoid 1.0
(6) Purified water Remaining manufacturing method: Add (2) and (3) to (1) to obtain a dissolved alcohol part uniformly. (5) is added to (4) and dissolved uniformly, and then (6) is added and uniformly dissolved to obtain an aqueous phase part. Alcohol parts were added to the water phase parts to adjust the hair tonic for preventing white hair, and Example 5 was obtained. As Comparative Example 7, a melanin production promoter (5) tetrahydrhydrocurcuminoid blended in Example 5 was not blended, and a hair tonic for preventing white hair was replaced with purified water, and the same evaluation was performed.

From Table 2 above, the hair tonic for preventing white hair of Example 5 satisfying the constitutional requirements of the present invention was excellent in the effect of improving white hair and satisfactory in reducing white hair. In contrast, Comparative Example 7 in which no melanin production promoter was blended did not increase or decrease gray hair in the same state as before use.

Skin Blackening Emulsion (1) Glycerol monostearate 4.0%
(2) Stearic acid 4.0
(3) Squalane 5.0
(4) Glyceryl trioctanoate 7.0
(5) Stearyl alcohol 2.0
(6) Liquid paraffin 4.0
(7) Dimethylpolysiloxane 5.0
(8) Tetrahydrhydrocurcuminoid 0.05
(9) Propylene glycol 8.0
(10) Purified water Remainder (11) Triethanolamine 1.0
(12) Preservative appropriate amount (13) Fragrance 0.2
Production method: Oil phase components (1) to (8) are heated and mixed at 80 ° C., and water phase components (9) to (11) heated to 80 ° C. under stirring are added to emulsify, and then (12), ( 13) was added, and then cooled to room temperature with stirring to prepare a skin darkening emulsion.

Lotion for skin darkening (1) Ethylene glycol 5.0
(2) Ethylparaben 0.3
(3) Sorbitol solution 2.0
(4) Tetrahydrhydrocurcuminoid 0.5
(4) Sodium pantothenate 0.2
(5) Retinyl palmitate 0.2
(6) 95% ethanol 10.0
(7) Monooleic acid POE (20) sorbitan 0.5
(8) Purified water balance (9) Fragrance 0.2
Production method: (9) was added to the mixture of (1) to (7), mixed with stirring for 30 minutes, and (8) was added and dissolved uniformly with stirring.
Both the composition for the skin darkening emulsion of Example 6 and the lotion for skin darkening of Example 7 blended with tetrahydrohydrocurcuminoid promote the biological defense ability inherent to melanin and prevent skin damage. Demonstrated browning of the skin.

The present invention relates to a melanin production promoter containing tetrahydrhydrocurcuminoid as an active ingredient, a melanin production cosmetic containing the same, a composition for darkening skin, a composition for preventing gray hair, and a protective agent against ultraviolet skin disorders. Available.

Claims (7)

Melanin production promoter comprising a curcumin derivative. A melanin production promoter containing a curcumin derivative. A melanin-producing cosmetic comprising a curcumin derivative. A composition for darkening skin comprising a curcumin derivative. A composition for preventing gray hair comprising a curcumin derivative. Protective agent for skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays containing curcumin derivative. The curcumin derivative is a tetrahydrohydrocurcuminoid, the melanin production promoter according to any one of claims 1 to 8, a melanin production cosmetic, a skin darkening composition, a composition for preventing gray hair, or an ultraviolet ray Protective agent for skin disorders.