JP2004143161A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a cosmetic into which vitamin A and/or its derivative are stably mixed and which is excellent in applicability because of having suitable viscosity, has excellent feelings in use, such as a fresh sensibility and a moisture retaining feeling, has a high skin care effect, and is excellent in storage stability. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic contains (a) the vitamin A and/or its derivative, (b) a water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties, (c) an oil-soluble antioxidant, and (d) water. The water-soluble polymer having the thixotropic properties (b) in the cosmetic comprises one, two or more kinds of compounds selected from pectin, gellan gum, and a carboxymethylcellulose salt. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof stably, and having excellent usability, feeling of use, and skin effect.

Conventionally, vitamin A and its derivatives have been known as effective ingredients for the prevention and treatment of cutaneous keratosis and the like, and also for prevention of skin aging. It has been formulated as However, these vitamin A and its derivatives were originally extremely unstable components. That is, vitamin A and its derivatives are components that are easily deteriorated by isomerization, oxidative decomposition, hydrolysis, and the like caused by many actions of light, air, heat, metal ions, and the like. Problems such as a substantial decrease in the amount of the active ingredient and discoloration and odor were likely to occur. Therefore, cosmetics containing such vitamin A and its derivatives have presently inevitable restrictions on the formulation and formulation of various stabilizers in order to ensure stability over time. For this reason, stabilization has been achieved by blending a large amount of oil or blending an antioxidant and a sequestering agent (for example, see Patent Documents 1 and 2). Then, a large amount of oil is blended, and a thickener such as a water-soluble polymer or a higher alcohol has been blended in order to secure the emulsion stability and to impart viscosity to the system (for example, See Patent Document 3.). On the other hand, humectants such as amino acids, mucopolysaccharides and glycols have been used to impart a moisturizing effect to the skin.

JP-A-4-210902 JP-A-6-32713 JP-A-11-349439

When a large amount of oil is blended for stabilizing vitamin A and its derivatives, and a thickener such as a water-soluble polymer or a higher alcohol is blended to secure the emulsion stability, the normal growth becomes heavy. In many cases, the fresh feeling of use was impaired. In addition, when an ionic substance such as a metal sequestering agent or an antioxidant, which is effective in securing the stability of vitamin A and its derivatives, is incorporated into a cosmetic, there is a disadvantage that aggregation and a decrease in viscosity are caused. For this reason, it has been difficult to obtain a blended preparation of vitamin A and its derivative which has a light feeling and a fresh feeling upon use. In addition, if a large amount of mucopolysaccharide or glycol is added to impart a high moisturizing effect, stickiness may occur and a satisfactory feeling in use may not be obtained.
Therefore, vitamin A and its derivatives are stably blended, and with moderate viscosity, it has excellent stability in the form of formulation, excellent usability, and also has an excellent feeling of use such as light and fresh feeling, and a moisturizing feeling after use. The development of high cosmetics was desired.

In view of such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks. As a result, in cosmetics containing vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof, water-soluble polymers having thixotropic properties and oil-soluble Vitamin A and / or its derivative is stably compounded by blending the antioxidant and water, and the viscosity of the cosmetic is from 500 mPa · s (20 ° C.) to 1,000,000 mPa · s (20 ° C.). The present inventors have found that a cosmetic composition having a fresh feeling during use and a high moisturizing feeling after use can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed based on this finding.

That is, the present invention comprises component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof, component (b) a water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties, component (c) an oil-soluble antioxidant, and component (d) water. It is a cosmetic. Further, the cosmetic is a cosmetic in which the component (b) water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties is one or more selected from pectin, gellan gum, and carboxymethyl cellulose salt. Furthermore, it is a cosmetic containing component (e) a sequestering agent and / or a water-soluble antioxidant. Furthermore, it is a cosmetic containing the component (f) phospholipid.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, by blending a water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties, an oil-soluble antioxidant, and water, the blending of vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof is remarkably stabilized, and the usability and usability are improved. It has the advantage of excellent skin effect.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described.
Component (a) Vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof used in the present invention is compounded as an effective component for improving rough skin, preventing or treating skin keratosis, etc., improving wrinkles, and preventing skin aging. Things.

Examples of the component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof used in the present invention include vitamin A (retinol), vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A propionate, and astaxanthin. However, the present invention is not limited thereto, and includes vitamin A derivatives in general. It is also possible to use a mixture of these vitamin A and its derivatives, for example, animal and vegetable oils containing them obtained from marine animals and plants. For example, vitamin A oil, carrot extract, carrot oil and the like can be mentioned. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more as necessary.

The amount of the component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof used in the present invention is not particularly limited. However, in order to obtain excellent effects such as improvement of wrinkles and improvement of skin roughness, 0.1% of the total amount of the cosmetic is required. It is preferably at least 0001% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as "%"), more preferably 0.001% to 10%.

The component (b) water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties used in the present invention includes component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof, component (c) an oil-soluble antioxidant and component (d) a sequestering agent, It is an essential component for stably blending a water-soluble antioxidant, imparting appropriate viscosity, giving a fresh feeling of use at the time of use, and giving a high moisturizing feeling after use. The moderate viscosity means that the properties of the cosmetic are in a thickened state to a creamed state, and specifically, have excellent usability in the range of 500 mPa · s (20 ° C.) to 1,000,000 mPa · s (20 ° C.). Refers to viscosity. A thixotropic water-soluble polymer is a water-soluble polymer that swells in water and gives viscoelasticity.The water-swelled material forms a gel when left standing and gives external force such as shaking and stirring. It refers to a material with the property that the phenomenon of losing plasticity and changing to a more fluid sol state reversibly occurs.

The component (b) water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has thixotropic properties. For example, pectin, gellan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose salt, locust bean gum, guar gum, xanthan gum, Carrageenan, quince seed gum, tragacanth gum, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / acryloyldimethyltaurine sodium copolymer, and the like.Of these, in order to obtain excellent usability and usability, pectin , Gellan gum and carboxymethyl cellulose salts are more preferred. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more as necessary.

The amount of the component (b) water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain excellent usability and feeling, 0.001% to 0.001% of the total cosmetic. 3% is preferable, and 0.01% to 2% is more preferable.

Component (b), a water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties, can be used together with other various water-soluble polymers to further improve the feeling of use and to obtain a further thickening effect.

成分 The component (c) oil-soluble antioxidant used in the present invention is contained for stabilizing the component (a) vitamin A and / or its derivative. The type of the component (c) oil-soluble antioxidant used in the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, dibutylhydroxytoluene (hereinafter referred to as BHT), butylhydroxyanisole, α, β, γ, δ-tocopherol, Examples thereof include nordihydroguaiaretinic acid, propyl gallate, oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives, and sorbic acid. Other general components having an oil-soluble antioxidant effect that can be added to cosmetics can be added. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more as necessary.

The blending amount of the component (c) oil-soluble antioxidant used in the present invention is not particularly limited. However, in order to further obtain the effect of suppressing the oxidative decomposition of the component (a) vitamin A and / or its derivative, the total amount of the cosmetic is Is preferably 0.001% or more, more preferably 0.01% or more. Although the upper limit of the blending is not particularly limited, it can be blended within a range of about 10.0% or less based on the whole cosmetic.

水 The water of the component (d) used in the present invention is an essential component as a solvent for swelling the water-soluble polymer having the thixotropic property of the component (b).

In the present invention, component (e) a sequestering agent and / or a water-soluble antioxidant can be blended for further improving the temporal stability of component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof. . The sequestering agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include alanine, edetate, polyphosphate, metaphosphate, phosphoric acid, dihydroxyethylglycine, citric acid, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof. . The type of the water-soluble antioxidant used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but ascorbic acid and its derivative, erythorbic acid and its derivative, sulfite, thiosulfate, metabisulfite, bisulfite, thiosulfate, Examples thereof include glycerol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid, cysteine hydrochloride, and other water-soluble and antioxidant substances and mixtures in general. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more as necessary.

The amount of the component (e) sequestering agent and / or water-soluble antioxidant used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof may be further treated with time. In order to obtain the effect of improving the stability, the content is preferably 0.001% or more, more preferably 0.01% or more, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. Although the upper limit of the blending is not particularly limited, it can be blended in a range of about 5.0% or less based on the whole cosmetic.

In the present invention, component (f) phospholipid may be blended for the purpose of improving the feeling of use, such as reducing the stickiness and imparting a moisturizing effect, and improving the temporal stability of component (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof. It is possible. The component (f) phospholipid used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used in cosmetics. Specific examples include phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylinositol, and sphingo. Examples thereof include phospholipids and the like, and compositions containing these analogs, that is, soybean lecithin, egg yolk lecithin, and hydrogenated products thereof. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more as needed. Among them, hydrogenated phospholipids are preferably used. Specifically, commercially available products include Resinol S-10, Resinol S-10E (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), egg yolk lecithin PL-100P (manufactured by Kewpie).

配合 The amount of the component (f) phospholipid used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01% to 10%, and more preferably 0.1% to 5%. By using in this range, the stability of vitamin A and its derivatives is good, and a good feeling of use with reduced stickiness and an excellent moisturizing effect can be more effectively imparted.

In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the essential components described above, components used in ordinary cosmetics, for example, oily components such as hydrocarbons, higher fatty acid esters, vegetable oils, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, and alcohols An aqueous component such as a polyol, a powder, a surfactant, an ultraviolet absorber, a humectant, a cosmetic component, a preservative, a fragrance, a refreshing agent and the like can be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to Examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention at all.

Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3: Cosmetics Cosmetics were prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 and the following method. The obtained cosmetics were evaluated for usability (ease of application), feeling of use (freshness during use, moisturizing feeling after use), skin effect (wrinkle improvement effect), and stability over time by the following methods. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C.
B: Components (9) to (17) and (19) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., and then A is added and emulsified.
C: B was cooled to room temperature, and component (18) was added to obtain a cosmetic.

For each of the samples of Examples 1 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, (1) usability (easiness of application), (2) feeling of use (freshness during use), ( 3) The feeling of use (moisturizing feeling after use) was evaluated according to the following (a) five-grade evaluation criteria, and the average value of the scores of each sample was determined using the (b) four-grade criteria.

(A) Five-level evaluation criteria (Score): (Evaluation)
4 points: Very good (Yes)
3 points: good (some)
2 points: No change 1 point: Somewhat bad (no)
0 point: bad (no)
(B) Four-step criteria (average score): (judgment)
3.5 or more: ◎
2.5 or more, less than 3.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 2.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

(Evaluation method: skin effect)
(3) Regarding the skin effect (wrinkle improvement effect), the wrinkle improvement effect after applying each sample to the skin twice a day for 1 month was evaluated by 14 professional evaluation panels according to the following (c) 4-level evaluation criteria. Then, the average value of the scores of each sample was determined using (d) a four-step criterion.

(C) Four-level evaluation criteria (Score): (Evaluation)
4 points: High wrinkle improvement effect 3 points: Wrinkle improvement effect 2 points: Slight wrinkle improvement effect 1 point: Wrinkle improvement effect is not seen (d) Four-step criteria (average score) : (Judgment)
3.5 or more: ◎
2.5 or more and less than 3.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 2.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

(Evaluation method: Stability over time)
Each sample was stored in a 50 ° C constant temperature bath for one month. Based on the condition immediately after preparation, the following (e) four-step criteria were used in terms of appearance separation, odor change, and time-dependent coloring. It was determined using

(E) Four-step criteria (evaluation) (judgment)
No change: ◎
There are minor changes: ○
There is a slight change: △
There is considerable change: ×

As is clear from the results of Tables 1 and 2, Examples 1 to 11 according to the present invention have usability (easiness of application), feeling of use (freshness at the time of use, moisturizing feeling after use), The cosmetic was excellent in skin effect (wrinkle improvement effect). Furthermore, the cosmetic was excellent in stability over time since it did not separate and did not change in odor or color even when stored in a 50 ° C. thermostat for one month. In addition, in each case, the viscosity value at 20 ° C. on the day after the adjustment was in the range of 500 mPa · s to 1,000,000 mPa · s, and the cosmetics had moderate viscosity and excellent usability. On the other hand, as is clear from the results in Table 2, the cosmetics containing no component (a) of Comparative Example 1 did not show any improvement in skin effect, and the cosmetics containing no component (c) of Comparative Example 2 Change in coloring and smell. In Comparative Example 3, which contained hydroxyethylcellulose having no thixotropic property instead of the component (b), an appropriate viscosity was not obtained, and freshness only at the time of use and moist feeling after use were not obtained.

Example 12: Serum
(Ingredient) (%)
(1) Retinol propionate 0.2
(2) Polyoxyethylene (60) hydrogenated castor oil 1.0
(3) BHT 0.1
(4) Tri (caprylic / capric acid) glyceryl 10
(5) Dipropylene glycol 5
(6) Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 0.5
(7) Alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
(8) Suitable amount of sodium hydroxide
(9) Ethanol 10
(10) Sodium phosphate ascorbate 0.1
(11) edetate disodium 0.1
(12) Polyoxyethylene (10) methyl glucoside 2
(13) Preservative appropriate amount
(14) Remaining amount of purified water

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (4) are uniformly mixed and dissolved.
B: Components (5) to (14) are uniformly mixed and dissolved.
C: A was added to B and emulsified to obtain a serum.

The essence obtained in Example 12 has excellent usability (easiness of application), feeling of use (freshness during use, moisturizing feeling after use), skin effect (wrinkle improvement effect), and stability over time. It was an excellent serum. In Example 12, the viscosity value at 20 ° C. on the day after the adjustment was 50,000 mPa · s, and was a serum having an appropriate viscosity and excellent usability.

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (d);
A cosmetic comprising (a) vitamin A and / or a derivative thereof, (b) a water-soluble polymer having thixotropic properties, (c) an oil-soluble antioxidant, and (d) water. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (b) water-soluble polymer having thixotropy is one or more selected from pectin, gellan gum, and carboxymethyl cellulose salt. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 2, further comprising component (e) a sequestering agent and / or a water-soluble antioxidant. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising component (f) a phospholipid.