JP2002115140A - Grandrelle bulky finished yarn and method for manufacturing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a grandrelle bulky finished yarn having natural grandrell appearance like natural wool, soft feeling and slimy feeling at the same time, and excellent in process passage, and a method for manufacturing the same. SOLUTION: The grandrelle bulky finished yarn is a combined filament yarn consisting of a polyester multifilament A having a birefringence in the range of 20×10-3 to 60×10-3 and diameter unevenness in the longitudinal direction, and a crimped polyester multifilament B. Further, 20-80 wt.% based on the combined yarn is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester yarn produced by copolymerizing 0.5-5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid based on the total acid components.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a heat-processed bulky yarn which can give a woven and knitted fabric a worsted wool-like slimy feeling, a soft feeling and a natural heather feeling, and is excellent in processability and a process for producing the same. It is.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Heat-treated yarns are widely used in women's outerwear, men's slacks, etc. due to their warm appearance. Examples of these heat-treated yarns include yarns in which a polyester false-twisted yarn that is immiscible with a cationic dye and a polyester false-twisted yarn that is dyeable with a cationic dye are mixed and entangled.

[0003] When these heat-treated yarns are made into a fabric and dyed with a cationic dye, the appearance of the pre-dyed wool can be obtained by a relatively coarse blended heather. In recent years, it has been desired that not only the appearance but also the texture be made similar to wool with the improvement in the level of needs.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks and provides a natural wool-like natural heather appearance and softness.
An object of the present invention is to provide a heat-treated bulky processed yarn having both a slimy feeling and good processability and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configuration. (1) The birefringence is 20 × 10 ^{−3 to} 60 × 10 ^{−3 in the} longitudinal direction.
A multifilament yarn comprising a polyester multifilament A having thick and thin spots in the range and a polyester multifilament B having a crimp, wherein 20 to 80% by weight of the mixed fiber is 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. A heat-treated bulky processed yarn, characterized by being a polyester dyeable to a cationic dye copolymerized with 0.5 to 5 mol% with respect to all acid components. (2) On the surface of the processed yarn, 300 or more loop fuzz having a height of 0.15 mm or more, 50 or less loop fuzz having a height of 0.35 mm or more, and loop fuzz having a height of 0.6 mm or more are provided. The heat-treated bulky yarn according to the above (1), wherein the yarn is present at 20 yarns / m or less. (3) the birefringence is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ ,
-Polyester multifilaments obtained by subjecting a cationic dye obtained by copolymerizing sodium sulfoisophthalic acid to 0.5 to 5 mol% with respect to the total acid component to a dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to give thick spots. A and a polyester multifilament B obtained by subjecting a highly oriented polyester unoriented yarn, which is insoluble in a cationic dye, to a draw false twisting process under heating to give a crimp, and subjecting it to fluid disturbance treatment. Manufacturing method of processed yarn.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The heat-treated bulky processed yarn of the present invention is a mixed fiber yarn composed of a polyester multifilament A (yarn A) having thick and thin spots and a polyester multifilament B (yarn B) having crimp. A needs to be a polyester multifilament having a thick and thin spot with a birefringence in the range of 20 × 10 ^{−3 to} 60 × 10 ^{−3 in} the longitudinal direction. The birefringence in the longitudinal direction has a thick and thin spot which fluctuates in the above range, and because the thick and thin spot has a smooth yarn diameter change without a neck, even if dyed, there is no clear and sharp shading change. In addition to imparting uneven and tactile feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, worsted wool-like slimy feeling can be expressed.

If the birefringence is less than 20 × 10 ^-3 , the filaments are apt to become brittle, and are susceptible to ironing and abrasion in the subsequent steps, for example, twisting, knitting and weaving, and induce fluff and yarn breakage. May be. In addition, the birefringence is 6
When it exceeds 0 × 10 ⁻³ , the internal structure of the fiber is stabilized, so that it does not easily change with respect to external stress and the like, and has no flexible structure. Soft feeling cannot be obtained. Also, if there is a neck in the thick and thin spots, a sharp change in the density appears due to a rapid change in the yarn diameter, and when blended with the yarn B described later, a natural heather feeling may not be able to be expressed, so there is no neck. Is preferred.

[0008] Next, it is necessary that the yarn B, which is the other component of the heat-treated bulky processed yarn of the present invention, is a polyester multifilament having crimp. By having crimps, a soft feeling can be expressed, and the uneven touch, natural feeling, and worsted wool-like slimy feeling are effectively exhibited because the mixed yarn A is raised on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Can be done. The term “crimp” used herein is not particularly limited, such as ordinary false twist crimping or indentation crimping, or crimping due to the difference in heat shrinkage of a two-component composite yarn.

In the present invention, the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 mol%, preferably 1.0 to 3.5 mol%, based on the total acid components. % Dyeable polyester (cation dyeable polyester) in the copolymerized cationic dye is 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight of the mixed fiber.
It must be contained at 70% by weight. When the cationic dyeable polyester is within the above range, the woven or knitted fabric can be given a different color effect of a heather appearance. When the ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester is less than 20% by weight or more than 80% by weight, a natural worsted wool-like appearance cannot be expressed.

On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is less than 0.5 mol%, the dyeability becomes extremely poor, a clear color cannot be obtained even when dyed, and the woven or knitted fabric has an unusual appearance such as a heather appearance. The effect cannot be expressed. On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component exceeds 5.0%, the spinnability becomes a problem, and thread breakage frequently occurs.

In the present invention, as long as the proportion of the cationic dyeable polyester is within the above numerical range, it may be contained in any of the yarns A and B. That is, it may be contained in either the yarn A or the yarn B,
It may be included in both. As an example of this, when the yarn A is the above-mentioned cationic dyeable polyester and the yarn B is a polyester which is not dyeable to a cationic dye (cation-undyed polyester), the differently dyeable yarns are separately mixed. Because it is delicate, the heather form becomes coarse. As another example, when the cationic dyeable polyester filament is partially contained in both the yarn A and the yarn B, the yarn in which the heterochromatic filaments are mixed is further mixed. As a form of heather, it becomes a fine heather. In any case, considering the desired appearance, the content ratio of the cationic dyeable polyester,
The arrangement may be considered.

The cationic unstained polyester used in the present invention may be any of polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate and the like. Further, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent for imparting functionality, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, and the like may be added. Further, the cross-sectional shape is not limited to a normal round cross-section, and a polygonal, hollow, flat, or other special cross-sectional shape can be applied. Filaments having different cross-sectional shapes may be mixed. In any case, an optimal material may be used in consideration of the physical properties of the woven or knitted material, the color difference from the cationic dyeable polyester, and the like.

Further, in the present invention, on the surface of the processed yarn, 300 or more loop fluffs having a height of 0.15 mm or more, 50 or less loop muffs having a height of 0.35 mm or more, and a height of 0 or less are provided. 20 loop fluffs of .6mm or more /
Preferably, it exists at m or less. By having the loop fluff in the above range, for example, in a woven fabric, it can be used for a warp without being twisted, so that it has excellent process passability, and since there are a large number of minute loop fluffs densely, the soft texture and warmth of the woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. A certain surface feeling can be imparted. 300 pieces / m of loop fluff with height of 0.15mm or more
If it is less than 50, a soft texture and a warm surface feeling cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, and the number of loop fluffs having a height of 0.35 mm or more exceeds 50 pieces / m or a loop fluff having a height of 0.6 mm or more becomes 20 or less. If the number of pieces / m is exceeded, the loop fluff protruding from the surface of the processed yarn is large, which causes problems in the process passability such as poor unwinding from cheese and poor opening during weaving. In addition,
The loop fuzz in the present invention is a yarn length 1 m having a height equal to or greater than a set value, which is counted using a fluff measuring device F-Index (manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.) and set to the height of the fluff for measuring a gauge. Refers to the number of fluff per hit.

Next, the method for producing the heat-treated bulky yarn of the present invention will be described. First, the birefringence is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 8
0 × 10 ^-3, 5-sodium sulfo highly oriented undrawn yarn of the isophthalate 0.5-5 mol% copolymerized with cationic dyeable polyester with respect to the total acid components (cationic PO
Y) is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to obtain a yarn A having thick and fine spots.

That is, by subjecting the cation POY to a relaxation heat treatment, the internal strain of the cation POY is developed, and a thick and thin spot is imparted to the filament. Since these thick and thin spots are not developed by stretching, a so-called neck phenomenon does not occur, and the yarn has a gradual change in yarn diameter.

The compound of the cation POY supplied to the relaxation heat treatment
Refractive index is 20 × 10^-3~ 80 × 10 ^-3Must be
When the birefringence is out of the range, a relaxation heat treatment is performed.
The birefringence of the obtained yarn A is 5 × 10^-3~ 80 × 10
^-3Out of the range. Over during relaxation heat treatment
The feed rate is not particularly limited, but is
Or 5 to 30%, the cation POY
Effectively expresses the internal strain of
Fine spots can be provided.

It is preferable that the set temperature of the heater at the time of the relaxation heat treatment be in a range in which the single filaments are not fused. Furthermore, the relaxation heat treatment is preferably performed in a non-contact state with the heater. By performing the heat treatment in a non-contact state, the relaxation heat treatment can be performed at a temperature higher than the melting point and at a high speed without fusing the yarn. .

Next, the false oriented yarn of the cationic unstained polyester is subjected to draw false twisting under heating to obtain a crimped yarn B. It is preferable that the false twisting at the time of the above-described stretch false twisting is performed by a friction false twisting method. By adopting the friction false twisting method, high-speed processing can be performed, and the false twisting can be easily performed from the viewpoint of the processing operation. It can be carried out.

In the above stretching false twisting, the K value (T2 / T1), which is the ratio between the twisting tension (T1) and the untwisting tension (T2), is preferably 0.5 to 0.9, When the K value is less than 0.5, a constriction phenomenon occurs in the processed yarn, and the yarn appearance tends to be deteriorated. On the other hand, when the K value exceeds 0.9, a long untwisted portion or a fluff is likely to occur in the processed yarn. Further, the draw ratio during the stretch false twisting is 1.4 times or more, and the temperature of the false twist heater is 2 times.
The range is such that fusion does not occur at a temperature of 00 ° C. or higher, and the degree of crimp to be applied may be adjusted by, for example, the number of disks of a friction false twist device.

In the present invention, the yarn A and the yarn B obtained as described above are supplied to the same fluid disturbance nozzle, and subjected to a fluid disturbance treatment to obtain a target heat-treated bulky yarn. By performing the fluid disruption treatment, the filaments constituting the yarns A and B are mixed and entangled, and can be expressed in a heather if dyed.
In this case, since the yarn B has a crimp, it has a high spreadability, and the entanglement is further improved, so that the whole yarn is bundled. Can be improved.

Further, in the above-mentioned fluid disturbance treatment, 300 or more loop fluffs having a height of 0.15 mm or more and 50 or less loop muffs having a height of 0.35 mm or more are formed on the surface of the processed yarn. 20 loop fluffs with a height of 0.6 mm or more /
m or less. If loop fuzz in the above range is formed by the fluid disturbance treatment, minute loop fuzz will be formed on the surface of the processed yarn. Such loop fuzz can be formed by the cation P subjected to the relaxation heat treatment.
It is presumed to be due to the properties of OY.

That is, thick and thin spots are formed on the cation POY by shrinkage due to the relaxation heat treatment, but the thin and fine spots are generated unevenly between filaments and in the longitudinal direction of the filaments due to shrinkage. A yarn length difference occurs between the filaments, and therefore, minute loop fluff is formed by the fluid disturbance treatment. It is presumed that L / D (where L is the thickness of the discharge hole and D is the diameter of the discharge hole) of the spinning nozzle is involved in the formation of the above-mentioned shrinkage spots, and is used as the supply yarn of the present invention. To obtain a cation POY,
It is preferable to spin with a spinning nozzle having an L / D in the range of 1 to 3.

The overfeed rate of the yarn during the fluid disturbance treatment is not particularly limited. However, if the overfeed rate of the yarn A is equal to or smaller than that of the yarn B, the slimy feeling is increased. It is preferable in enhancing the worsted texture. As the fluid disturbance nozzle, any nozzle such as a Taslan nozzle or an interlace nozzle may be used as long as it can form entanglement or loop fluff on the yarn.

Next, a method for producing a heat-treated bulky yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic process drawing showing one embodiment of the method for producing a heat-treated high-textured yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the birefringence is 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 1.
0 ^-3 cation POY (Y1), the first supply roller 1 and the relaxation heat treatment by the first take-off roller 3 and the heater 2 is subjected, the yarn A, and the fluid disturbance nozzle neck without thick fine unevenness is formed It is led to 8.

On the other hand, the highly oriented unstretched yarn Y2 of the cationic unstained polyester is subjected to stretch false twisting between the second supply roller 4 and the second take-off roller 7 by the heater 5 and the friction false twist device 6. After having become the crimped yarn B, it is guided to the fluid disturbance nozzle 8. Next, the yarn A and the yarn B
Is mixed by a fluid agitating nozzle 8 to become a target heat-treated, high-volume processed yarn, and is wound around a package 11 by a winding roller 10 via a third pulling roller 9.

[0026]

According to the heat-treated bulky yarn of the present invention, the yarn A having a gentle thick spot and the yarn B having a crimp are mixed, and the cationic dyeable polyester is appropriately contained. Therefore, the fabric obtained by knitting, weaving and dyeing has no clear and rapid change in shading, and can impart uneven, tactile, and soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, and also has a worsted wool-like slimy feeling and a natural heather. Appearance can be given.

Further, when the loop fluff in the above-mentioned range is formed, it has a thread form in which there is almost no large protruding loop fluff, and can be used in a warp of a woven fabric without twist. Since a large number of minute loop fluffs are densely present, the woven or knitted fabric can be given a soft feeling and a warm surface feeling.

[0028]

Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. Example 1 As a supply yarn Y1, a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an acid component using ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit was spun with a nozzle having an L / D of 2 and obtained. Cation POY122dtex / 36 having a birefringence of 41 × 10 ⁻³
f as a supply yarn Y2, a highly oriented undrawn yarn 24 of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) having a birefringence of 56 × 10 ^−3.
Using 0dtex / 48f, processing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 in accordance with the process of FIG. 1 to obtain a heat-treated bulky processed yarn.

[0029]

[Table 1]

As apparent from Table 1, the obtained heat-treated bulky processed yarn was a mixed fiber entangled yarn having many fine loop fluffs on the yarn surface.

[0031] The heat-treated bulky yarn has a warp density of 72 yarns /
When weaving a plain woven fabric at 2.54 cm and a weft density of 50 yarns / 2.54 cm, and performing refining, dyeing, and finishing using a cationic dye in a conventional manner, the unwinding property and weaving property of the yarn are completely problematic. In other words, the obtained woven fabric was a novel woven fabric having a worsted wool-like slimy feeling, a soft texture and a relatively coarse heather appearance.

Example 2 As a supply yarn Y1, a copolymer polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an acid component with ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and a PET having an L / D of 2 were used. A birefringent index obtained by using a polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn 130 dtex / 36f having a birefringence of 40 × 10 ⁻³ and obtained as a supply yarn Y2 in the same manner as in the supply yarn Y1 obtained by concentrically spinning the polyester yarn. Is 58 ×
Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn of 10 ^-3 240 dtex /
Using 36f, processing was carried out under the conditions shown in Table 1 in accordance with the process shown in FIG. Next, a woven fabric was finished using this processed yarn in the same manner as in Example 1.

As shown in Table 1, the obtained heat-treated bulky yarn is a mixed-fiber entangled yarn having a large number of fine loop fluffs on the yarn surface. There was no problem at all, and the obtained woven fabric was a novel woven fabric having both a worsted wool-like slimy feel, a soft texture and a fine heather appearance.

Comparative Example 1 As a supply yarn Y1, a copolymer polyester obtained by copolymerizing 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an acid component using ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit was spun with a nozzle having an L / D of 2 POY140dtex / 36 having a birefringence of 40 × 10 ⁻³ obtained by
f was subjected to a stretching heat treatment without performing the relaxation heat treatment in FIG. 1 and supplied to the fluid agitating nozzle to obtain a processed yarn for comparison in the same manner as in Example 1.

As shown in Table 1, in the obtained processed yarn for comparison, the birefringence of the yarn A did not change in the longitudinal direction.
Since there were few small loop fluffs and many large loop fluffs on the yarn surface, the unwinding property of the yarn was poor, and the loom stopped frequently during weaving. Further, the obtained woven fabric lacked a soft texture and lacked a slimy feeling and exhibited a heather appearance, but was monotonous and lacked a natural feeling.

[0036]

According to the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric can be provided with a mottled tactile sensation, a natural sensation, a soft sensation, a worsted wool-like slimy feeling, and a natural heather appearance. And a method for producing the same.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process chart showing one embodiment of a method for producing a heat-treated textured yarn of the present invention.

[Description of Signs] Y1 Highly oriented undrawn yarn of polyester dyeable to cationic dye Y2 Highly oriented undrawn yarn of polyester not dyeable to cationic dye 1 First supply roller 2, 5 Heater 3 First take-up roller 4 Second Supply roller 6 Friction temporary twisting device 7 Second take-up roller 8 Fluid disturbance nozzle 9 Third take-up roller 10 Take-up roller 11 Package

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA26 MA33 MA39 PA10 PA14 PA17 PA33 PA41 RA04 RA05 RA15 UA01 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA36 AA45 AA55 AB08 AB09 AB21 AB23 AC07 BA01 BA02 CA15 CA17 DA02

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A birefringence of 20 × 10 ^{−3 to} 6 in a longitudinal direction.
A mixed yarn comprising a polyester multifilament A having a thick and thin spot in the range of 0 × 10 ⁻³ and a polyester multifilament B having a crimp.
0-80% by weight is a polyester dyeable to a cationic dye obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by mole with respect to the total acid component, and is a high-processed heat-treated yarn. . 2. A height of 0.15 mm on the surface of the processed yarn.
More than 300 loops / m and 0.35m in height
50 m / m or less loop fuzz over m, height 0.6 mm
The said loop fluff exists in 20 pieces / m or less.
The heather-like bulky processed yarn described. 3. A birefringence of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ^−3.
A dyeing treatment of a highly dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn to a cationic dye obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 0.5 to 5 mol% with respect to the total acid component to give a thick spot Polyester multifilament A
And a polyester multifilament B, which is subjected to draw false twisting under heat and crimped to a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn, which is insoluble in a cationic dye, and subjected to a fluid disturbance treatment. Manufacturing method of yarn.