JP2001329447A - Spunized fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester fabric which exhibits high senses such as delicate dry touch, new spunized touch, uniform natural appearance and feminine silhoutte and further has excellent comfortable functionality such as sweat absorption and quick dryness. SOLUTION: This spunized fabric comprising polyester multi-filament yarns having an apparent thick-thin ratio of >=1.1 measured by the below-described method, characterized in that the thick portions and the thin portions can be dyed in the same color. (The method for measuring the apparent thick-thin ratio): the yarn composing the fabric is observed with an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and on the screen of the electron microscope or on a photograph, the ratio of the width of the most expanded portion (thick portion) of the yarn to the most bundled portion (thin portion) of the yarn is determined.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a fabric excellent in sensitivity and functionality. More specifically, the present invention relates to a spanished cloth which exhibits a high sensitivity such as a novel spanized feeling, a natural appearance of a uniform color, a delicate dry feeling, and a feminine silhouette, and has excellent comfort functions such as sweat absorption and quick drying.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to express a feeling of spanning with synthetic fibers, particularly polyester fibers, a polyester undrawn yarn is potentially used (at the stage of the original yarn, the thickness of the fibers cannot be visually recognized). A method of imparting thickness by uneven stretching,
In addition, in a prominent manner (at the stage of the original yarn, the thickness of the fiber can be visually recognized), a triple wound portion in which the sheath yarn is triple wound on the core yarn and a single wound portion are alternately formed. A method for causing this to occur is known.

[0003] On the other hand, attempts have been reported to form micropores in fibers to obtain a dry feeling. Further, it has been proposed to form a different shrinkage mixed fiber or a composite false twisted yarn using such fibers to impart a swelling feeling and flexibility (soft feeling) to the fabric.

[0004] However, such conventional fabrics composed of polyester fibers having a spanished feeling and a dry feeling are still insufficient in terms of a delicate dry feeling that can be felt when touching the cloth, The appearance of a polyester fabric having a more delicate dry feeling has been awaited.

[0005] Furthermore, when a polyester undrawn yarn is drawn unevenly to give a thick and thin, there is also a problem that the thick part is deeply dyed from the details by dyeing, so that the natural appearance is lacking.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems and to provide a high sensitivity such as a delicate dry feeling, a novel spanize feeling, a uniform natural appearance, a feminine silhouette, and sweat absorption. -It is to propose a polyester fabric which is also excellent in comfort functions such as quick drying.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and have found that the thick portion and the detail have the same color while having an apparent thick and thin difference in the yarn length direction. It has been found that a desired fabric can be obtained when a polyester multifilament yarn which can be dyed is used. Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a fabric composed of a polyester multifilament yarn having an apparent thickness ratio of 1.1 or more as measured by the following method, wherein the thick portion and the detail are dyed in the same color. A spanised fabric is provided, characterized in that it is possible.

(Measurement Method of Apparent Thickness Ratio) The yarn constituting the fabric is observed using an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and the yarn is most observed on an electron microscope screen or a photograph. The ratio between the width of the swollen portion (thick portion) and the width of the portion (detail) where the yarn is most concentrated is determined.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Polyethylene terephthalate having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a repeating unit is preferably used, but if necessary, a small amount of a third component (usually 15 mol% or less, preferably 10 mol% or less, particularly preferably 10 mol% or less, based on all repeating units). (5 mol% or less) Copolymerized polyester may be used, and a matting agent and other additives may be added.

For example, when a sulfonic acid compound represented by the following formula is contained in an amount of 0.3 to 15 mol% with respect to a bifunctional carboxylic acid component constituting a polyester, fine pores are formed on the fiber surface by alkali reduction treatment. Can be formed,
It is preferable because a fabric having a delicate dry feeling can be obtained.

[0011]

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In the formula, R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms or an aryl group or an alkylaryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, M ₁ and M ₂ are alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and n is 0 to 2 Indicates an integer.

In the above formula, when R is an alkyl group or an alkylaryl group, the alkyl may have a linear or branched side chain. In particular, a metal salt of an alkylarylsulfonic acid in which R is an alkylaryl group is preferable from the viewpoint of the fine pore shape after weight reduction. M ₁ and M ₂ are alkali metals such as sodium, potassium and lithium, or alkaline earth metals such as calcium and magnesium, among which sodium, potassium and magnesium are preferred.

Preferred specific examples of the sulfonic acid compound include sodium alkyl sulfonate and sodium sulfoisophthalate.

The above sulfonic acid compounds may be used alone or in combination of two or more. In the production of the polyester fiber, the polyester may be added at any stage before the completion of the melt spinning.For example, the polyester may be added and blended into the raw material of the polyester, or may be added during the synthesis of the polyester. It may be added after completion of the synthesis and before the melt-discharge spinning. In any case, it is preferable to mix in a molten state after the addition.

Next, the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the fabric of the present invention has an apparent thickness unevenness as a multifilament in the yarn length direction, and the ratio of the thick portion to the detail is 1.1. It is essential that this is done.

Here, the apparent thickness ratio is measured by the following method. That is, the yarn constituting the fabric is observed using an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and the width and the width of the most swollen portion (thick portion) on the electron microscope screen or photograph are observed. The ratio with the width of the portion (detail) where the yarn is converged is determined.

When the ratio between the thick part and the small part is less than 1.1, a sufficient spanning feeling and a uniform natural appearance are not exhibited. The length of the thick part and the detail is not particularly limited, but the length of the thick part is 10 to 50 mm, and the yarn length ratio of the adjacent thick part / detail is 1 / 0.5 to 1/30. Preferably, there is.

The above polyester multifilament yarn can be obtained, for example, by giving a random fineness distribution and a shrinkage distribution resulting therefrom between the filaments constituting the multifilament.

The fineness distribution at this time is 1.11 to 4.44.
It is preferably dtex. By providing such a fineness distribution, random shrinkage spots having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 3.0 to 15.0% appear between the filaments, and apparent thickness spots as multifilaments appear.

In the above polyester multifilament yarn, since the constituent filaments have a random fineness distribution, the thick part and the detail can be dyed in the same color.

Here, the same color means that a thick and thin appearance can be recognized from the difference in form but does not give a slab-like appearance due to a difference in dyeing.

The above-mentioned filament can exhibit the above-mentioned natural feeling and dry feeling even with a round cross section.
A triangular (irregular) cross section is more preferable in terms of imparting a delicate dry feeling and a spanized appearance. Also, when expressing comfort such as sweat absorption and quick drying, a triangular (irregular) cross-section is preferable because it easily exhibits water diffusibility due to capillary action between single fibers.

The above polyester multifilament yarn can be specifically produced by the following method. That is, the above-mentioned polyester is used, for example, for 275 to 3
The oil is applied to the spun yarn that has been melted and discharged from the spinneret at 00 ° C. and cooled and solidified, and an interlace is applied by an interlace applying device. Then, the preheat roller and the drawing roller are set to a temperature lower than the glass transition temperature of the polyester. The semi-drawn yarn is once wound up on a winder.

Next, the obtained semi-drawn yarn is subjected to a drawing speed of 5
Stretching at a stretching ratio of 1.1 to 2.0 times at 00 to 1500 m / min through a preheating roller heated to 80 to 110 ° C and a non-contact heater set at 170 to 220 ° C,
Further, it can be obtained by applying a heat setting at a draw ratio of 0.8 to 1.2 times through a contact type or non-contact type heater set at 150 to 200 ° C. as necessary.

In order to manufacture a fabric using the above-mentioned polyester multifilament yarn, an appropriate twist may be applied if necessary, and the fabric may be woven or knitted into a desired structure. In addition, the obtained fabric is subjected to relaxation, heat setting, and alkali weight reduction treatment as necessary, so that it has an excellent natural spanized appearance that could not be expressed by conventional woven or knitted fabric, delicate dry feeling, and even feminine A silhouette appears.

Since the present invention is intended to produce a fabric having a novel spanished feeling, a natural appearance of a uniform color, and a delicate dry feeling, it is not preferable to weave and knit into a complex structure. It is preferable to weave and knit a plain weave or its change structure, a twill weave or its change structure, a satin weave or the like. In addition, the proportion of the polyester fiber constituting the fabric of the present invention in the fabric is not necessarily 100%. However, in order to obtain an excellent spanized appearance, a natural feeling, and a dry feeling, the proportion is larger. preferable.

Further, the contact angle of water is reduced by providing irregularities on the surface of the filaments constituting the polyester multifilament yarn, and furthermore, by utilizing the diffusibility of water due to the capillary action between single fibers. It is also possible to give the fabric itself sweat-absorbing properties (water absorption).

[0029]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, which should not be construed as limiting the invention thereto.

[Example 1] Sodium alkylsulfonate having 7 to 20 carbon atoms and having an average carbon number of 8 was added to 0.75
A polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 (measured with an orthochlorophenol solution at 35 ° C.) containing 0.6% by weight is melt-discharged from a spinneret, and the discharged yarn is cooled and solidified, and then an oil agent is applied. After the application, it is picked up at a speed of 2300 m / min and 3000 m / min.
The film was semi-stretched at a speed of minutes and wound up.

The obtained semi-drawn yarn was heated at a preheating roller temperature of 9
After stretching at 0 ° C., a heat set heater (non-contact type) temperature of 200 ° C., a stretching ratio of 1.4 times, and a stretching speed of 800 m / min,
A heat set heater (contact type) was heated at a temperature of 175 ° C. and a draw ratio of 0.98 times and wound up, and 120 dtex /
A 36 filament yarn was obtained.

The obtained yarn having a twist of 1000 T / m is used for the warp and the weft, and the warp density: 78 yarns /
It was woven in a plain weave (boil) according to the standard of 2.54 cm and the weft density: 68 yarns / 2.54 cm. Next, scouring, pre-heating setting, alkali weight reduction processing (weight reduction rate of 15%), dyeing processing, and final heat setting were performed according to a conventional method to finish.

The apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the obtained fabric is 1.5, the fabric is uniformly dyed, and has a novel spanished feeling, natural appearance, delicate dry feeling, feminine feeling. It exhibited high sensitivity, such as a simple silhouette, and also had excellent comfort functions such as sweat absorption and quick drying.

[Examples 2 and 3, Comparative Examples 1 and 2] Example 1
In the same manner as in Example 1, except that the draw ratio of the semi-drawn yarn was changed variously and the apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the fabric was changed as shown in Table 1.

Table 1 also shows the apparent thickness ratio of the polyester multifilament yarn constituting the obtained fabric and the evaluation results of the fabric. In addition, each evaluation item and the overall evaluation are ranked in three grades of extremely good (excellent), good (good), and poor (improper), and the comprehensive evaluation is sensory taking into account the softness (flexibility) of the fabric. Judged.

[0036]

[Table 1]

[0037]

According to the present invention, comfort functions such as sweat absorption and quick drying while exhibiting high sensitivity such as novel spanning feeling, natural appearance of uniform color, delicate dry feeling and feminine silhouette, which have not been seen before. It is possible to provide an excellent polyester fabric.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page F term (reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AC02 AC06 DA04 DA05 EA03 EA08 FA01 4L031 AA18 AB04 AB21 AB31 CA01 DA00 DA09 4L036 MA05 MA33 RA03 UA02 UA16 4L048 AA20 AA34 AA41 AA50 AA56 AB07 AC08 BA23 AC01 CA07 CA16 DA01 EB04 EB05

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A fabric comprising a polyester multifilament yarn having an apparent thickness / thickness ratio of 1.1 or more as measured by the following method, wherein said thick portion and said details can be dyed in the same color. A spanized cloth characterized by the following. (Method of Measuring Apparent Thickness Ratio) The yarn constituting the fabric is
Observed using an electron microscope over a length of at least 10 cm, and on the electron microscope screen or on the photograph, the width of the portion where the yarn is swollen (thick portion) and the width of the portion where the yarn is concentrated (detail) Find the ratio with 2. The spanized cloth according to claim 1, wherein the polyester filament is a filament whose surface is made uneven to reduce the contact angle of water.