JP2000336534A - Composite false twist yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite false twist yarn having the surface variation in shade of color having natural feeling, spun like feeling including high-class feeling such as tenseness or body feeling, uneven touch and the like, and a splashed pattern-like dyeing difference, and a process for producing the yarn. SOLUTION: A composite false twist yarn formed by entangling a thick-and- thin false twist yarn A and a thick-and-thin false twist yarn B. The false twist yarn is characterized in that an opened section between an entangled part and the next entangled part, and a section where entangled parts are concentrated are repeatedly placed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the lengths of the sections are each irregular, and coefficient U% of variation in yarn unevenness is 4-15%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a composite temporary twisted yarn having a kasuri-like dyeing difference, which gives a knitted woven product a novel surface effect based on a kasuri-like shade dyeing difference and a spun-like texture with an uneven texture. The present invention relates to the manufacturing method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, there have been proposed some composite processed yarns in which two types of multifilament yarns are compounded to obtain a difference in light and shade dyeing in a lustrous manner by a difference in dyeing effect in the yarn length direction, and a method for producing the same.

For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-45653 discloses a method for producing a special marbled yarn by giving an irregular undrawn portion to any one of two types of multifilament yarns and giving a temporary twisting process. Has been proposed. However, it has been pointed out that there are manufacturing problems such as the length change of the density difference of the multifilament yarn is short, the pattern is monotonous, the contrast is insufficient, and the undrawn portion is partially fused.

Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 07-324237 proposes a marbling-like polyester composite yarn in which a cationic dyeable thick and thin yarn and a multifilament yarn are fluidly entangled and which are easy to separate. However, the length change of the color difference is short, and the pattern is still monotonous, and the number of colors is limited, so that it is restricted.

[0005] In addition, there has been proposed a heat-treated composite processed yarn in which imperfect drawn yarns of multifilament yarns having different spinning speeds are aligned, subjected to air entanglement treatment, then subjected to thick and thin processing, and subjected to provisional twisting processing. This is difficult to be formed in a thick and thin manner, has a problem that the contrast of the color difference and the shading difference is weak, the length change is short, and the pattern tends to be monotonous.

However, in recent years, the diversification and luxury of products have been promoted, and uniform surface effects and feelings have been eliminated. There is an increasing demand for high-quality spun-like textures such as "tension" and "waist."

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to a kasumi dyeing method having a natural-feeling dark and light color surface change, a high-quality texture such as "tension" and "waist" or a spun-like texture such as uneven texture. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite temporary twisted yarn having a difference and a method for producing the same.

[0008]

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following arrangement. That is, (1) a composite temporary twisted yarn in which the thick and thin temporary twisted yarn A and the thick and thin temporary twisted yarn B are entangled, and a portion where the entangled portion is spread from the entangled portion in the yarn length direction. And the portion where the entangled portion is concentrated are repeatedly present, the length of each portion is irregular, and the yarn unevenness variation rate U%
Is from 4 to 15%.

(2) The composite temporary twisted yarn according to (1), wherein the portion opened by dyeing becomes lighter and the concentrated portion becomes darker.

(3) Incompletely drawn filament yarns A and B of polyethylene terephthalate having different natural draw ratios
Draw the thick and thin filaments A and B at a higher natural draw ratio than the natural draw ratio of the higher and lower, and simultaneously draw and temporarily twist in the aligned state, and then perform air entanglement. A method for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn.

[0011]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on embodiments shown in the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a yarn form of a composite temporary twisted yarn having a crepe-like dyeing difference according to the present invention. A bulky portion and a converged portion are repeatedly formed. A indicates a portion where the confounding portion is opened from the confounding portion, and B indicates a portion where the confounding portion and the confounding portion are connected to each other.

The lengths of the portions A and B are irregular in the yarn length direction. The longer the portion A, the lighter the color, and the longer the portion B, the darker color.

The portion (a) is lightly entangled with the temporary twisted yarns A and B while opening at the portion where the temporary twisted portions of the thick and thin temporary twisted yarns A and B overlap.

The portion B is a portion where a number of short entangled portions are connected and concentrated, and the temporary twisted yarns A and B are closely entangled.

This is a composite temporary twisted yarn having a scumming dyeing difference in which a yarn structure in which the portions A and B of such a structure are repeatedly connected is formed.

To explain the present invention in more detail, the thick and thin temporary twisted yarns A and B are composed of multifilament yarns of thermoplastic synthetic fibers, and the combination of the temporary twisted yarns A and B is polyester or polyester. From among materials such as polyamide, spinning speed, fineness, cross-sectional shape,
Any kind of filament yarn with different shrinkage, gloss, dyeing degree, easy elution degree, etc. can be combined,
A composite temporary twisted yarn having a desired surface effect and a spun-like texture can be designed.

The difference in fineness, difference in gloss and difference in dyeing among varieties are preferable combinations that can give high-quality sensation and texture to the appearance and texture of knitted and woven products.

By dyeing the knitted or woven fabric product of the above-described composite yarn, the stretched portion is easily stretched and becomes light-colored.
In an area where a number of confounds are connected, an incompletely stretched portion remains, so that the color tends to be dark. As a result, the length of each part appears to be irregular, and this irregularity appears as a natural crisp-like surface effect.

The balance of the lengths of the unfolded portion and the entangled portion is designed by combining raw yarns having different natural draw ratios, or by changing the size of the draw ratio of the thick and thin processing or the length of the drawing zone. be able to.

[0021] The above-mentioned contrast of shade and irregularity of length of the composite yarn can be numerically expressed as a yarn unevenness variation rate. When the yarn unevenness variation rate is expressed as U%, it is 4% to 15%.
% Can obtain a preferable surface effect.

If U% is 4% or less, the variation rate of yarn unevenness is small and inconspicuous, and if it exceeds 15%, the processability of knitted fabric production decreases, so that it is not preferable in this range.

Further, the cycle of the yarn unevenness variation rate can be expressed as a spectrogram, and a range of a peak value of 5 to 20 cm is a preferable range because a natural surface effect appears.

[0024] When the peak value is less than 5 cm, the unevenness becomes fine and inconspicuous, and when it is more than 20 cm, the unevenness becomes coarse and unsuitable for general clothing. Suitable for.

The method for measuring the yarn unevenness variation rate U% is EVENESSESTER 80 TYP manufactured by Keisokuki Kogyo Co., Ltd.
The test was performed at a yarn speed of 25 m / min using E80.

The characteristic values of the variation rate of the yarn unevenness other than U% can be numerically represented by the average value x of the length of the portion where the convoluted portion and the confounding portion are continuous and the variation ratio cv%.

That is, if x becomes long, a long uneven feeling is obtained.
When v becomes large, a severe unevenness is generated.

The method for measuring x and cv% is as follows.
The sample was collected and suspended at a load of 0.1 g / d for 30 seconds. After degraving, a mark was made at 1 m below 2 mg / d. It is calculated.

Next, a method for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention will be described.

The filament yarn A and the filament yarn B, which are incompletely drawn yarns of polyethylene terephthalate, are aligned and thick and thin processing is performed at a higher natural drawing ratio of the filament yarn A or the filament yarn B than the higher natural drawing ratio. Subsequently, the two yarns are simultaneously drawn and temporarily twisted while being aligned, and then subjected to an air entanglement process, whereby a composite temporary twisted yarn having a difference in creped dyeing can be obtained.

The incompletely drawn yarn to be used is an incompletely drawn yarn such as polyester or polyamide, and has a material, a denier, a cross-sectional shape, a shrinkage, a gloss, a dyeing property, an easy elution property and the like.
Any type of incompletely drawn multifilament yarn can be used.

The incompletely drawn yarn may be a filament yarn called POY of 1500 m / min to a high-speed yarn called OSP of 6000 m / min or more, in the range of spinning speed.

It is possible to use an undrawn yarn called UY, but it is not preferable because it is difficult to handle such as temperature and humidity and changes over time.

In the combination of filament yarns, a combination having a difference in fineness, a difference in spinning speed, a difference in cross-sectional shape, or a difference in dyeing is a preferable method for the effect of the present invention.

FIG. 2 shows a typical example of the manufacturing process. In FIG. 2, a filament yarn (A) 1 is supplied from a guide 3 to a feed roller 4 and a filament yarn (B) 2 is supplied from a guide 3 to a feed roller 4. Apply chic and thin processing at.

The thick and thin draw ratio is a mechanical draw ratio between the feed roller 4 and the feed roller 6, and is preferably set to be equal to or less than the higher of the natural draw ratio of the filament yarn.

For example, a filament yarn (A) made of polyethylene terephthalate having a spinning speed of 2500 m / min, usually called POY, and a spinning speed of 3000 m / m
If the filament yarn (B) is used, the natural draw ratio of the filament yarn (A) is generally higher than that of the filament yarn B. In this combination example, a range of 1.3 times to 1.5 times is a preferable range.

However, as the difference in the natural stretching ratio increases, the filament on the lower side of the natural stretching ratio does not undergo thick and thin processing, and is close to complete stretching.

In general, the suitable range of the stretching ratio of the thick and thin processing is about 1.2 to 1.6 times.

Regarding the method of processing thick and thin, the temperature of the hot pin is preferably around the Tg temperature, preferably 70 ° C. to 11 ° C.
A range of 0 ° C. is suitable.

A typical example of the thick and thin processing will be described below.

FIG. 3 shows that the filament yarn (A) 1 is fed from the feed roller 13 to the hot pin 5 and the filament yarn (B) is
2 is drawn from the feed roller 14 to the hot pin 5 and subjected to thick and thin processing, combined with different patterns and supplied to the feed roller 6.

In this case, the thick and thin draw ratio of the filament yarn (A) 1 and the filament yarn (B) 2 can be the same or different.

FIG. 4 shows that the filament yarn (A) 1 is fed from the feed roller 15 with a hot pin 17, and the filament yarn (B) 2 is fed from the feed roller 16 with a hot pin 18.
In this method, thick and thin processing is performed separately, patterns having different patterns are combined, and the combination is supplied to the feed roller 6.

Also in this case, the thick and thin draw ratio of the filament yarn (A) 1 and the filament yarn (B) 2 can be the same or different.

FIG. 5 shows the supply of the filament yarn (A) 1 from the feed roller 4 to the heater 19 and the supply of the filament yarn (B) 2 from the feed roller 4 to the heater 19. And feeding the feed roller 6 to the feed roller 6.

In this case, the heater 19 may be any of a plate type, a saddle type, and a tube type, and may be a high-temperature short heater, a far infrared heater, an electromagnetic wave heater, or the like.

Regarding the temporary stretching and twisting, the filament yarns A and B that have been subjected to the thick and thin processing are simultaneously stretched and temporarily twisted in the aligned state. Temporary twisting is performed by the temporary twister 8, heat setting is performed by the heater 7, disassembly is performed, and the twisting nozzle 1 is pulled out from the delivery roller 9.
0 is a method of performing air entanglement processing and winding up the cheese from the feed roller 11 by the winding roller 12.

The normal setting range can be applied as the composite temporary twist processing conditions. However, as special conditions, the temporary temporary reset temperature of the heater 7 is set to a low temperature of 70 to 150 ° C., and the temporary twist number is also 3 to 5 times lower than usual. A lower range or (for example, 15
If the thickness is equivalent to 0 denier, normal 2100 T / M ~
(A range 30 to 50% lower than 2600 T / M), and conversely, a range 20% higher. As a result, it is possible to produce the composite temporary twisted yarn having a soft to hard spun-like texture and a satin to silky luster.

Regarding the temporary twister 8 of the twisting tool, any method such as a spindle type, a friction type, a belt nip type and a swirling flow type may be used.

The air treatment nozzle 10 may be any of a confounding type, a turbulent type or a swirling type, but the confounding type is most preferable from the viewpoint of yarn formation and shape stability.

Regarding the re-heat treatment, the composite yarn may be heat-set from the delivery roller 9 and wound for the purpose of adjusting to a soft feel or improving the post-process passability.

[0053]

EXAMPLES The processing conditions and yarn characteristics of the composite yarns having a crepe dyeing difference of Examples 1 to 6 and the composite temporary twist processing conditions and yarn characteristics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are shown in Table 1, respectively. Examples 1 to 5 [Original yarn] Polyethylene terephthalate imperfectly drawn yarn NRD: Natural drawing ratio (times) Elongation: Elongation at maximum strength in the original yarn SS curve [Thread processing conditions] Figure Process 2 Entangling treatment feed + 1.5% Entangling treatment pressure 2.0 kg / cm ² Temporary twist processing speed 400 m / min Temporary twist stretch ratio 1.2 times D / Y ratio 1.75 Comparative Example 1 [Yarn Processing conditions] One yarn is thick-and-thin-processed, then, after provisional twisting is performed, a process is used in which the obtained yarn is drawn and entangled with two yarns. Hot pin temperature 80 ° C Thick-and-thin-processed draw ratio 1. 30 times false twisting speed 400 m / min temporary twisting stretching ratio 1.2 times D / Y ratio 1.75 entangling process feed + 1.5% entangling process pressure 2.0 Kg / cm ² Comparative example 2 [yarn processing conditions] After then thick and thin stretched while pulling aligning entangling processing the yarn, draw false twisting using a process of hot pin temperature 80 ° C. thick and thin processing draw ratio 1.30 times entangling process pressure 2.0 Kg / cm ² temporary twisting Processing speed 400 m / min Temporary twist draw ratio 1.2 times D / Y ratio 1.75 Comparative example 3 [Thread processing conditions] Use a process in which two yarns are aligned, stretched and temporarily twisted, and then entangled. Speed 400 m / min Temporary twist stretching ratio 1.7 times D / Y ratio 1.75 Entangling treatment pressure 2.0 Kg / cm ² Weaving the composite yarns of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 under the following conditions The fabric was dyed and finished to produce a woven fabric.

[Weaving conditions] Number of twists 200 t / m in the direction of temporary twist twisting Warp Polyester filament 75 denier 24 filament Weft Composite temporary twisted yarns of Examples and Comparative Examples Tissue Plain weave [Dyeing finishing conditions] Refining soda ash 2 g / 60 ° C × 30 min Relaxed with L 98 ° C × 60 min Hot water treatment Dyeing condition 133 ° C × 60 min Disperse dye Intermediate set Dry heat 180 ° C × 90se (5% tension in both width and length) Weight loss processing NaOH (30 g / L) ) 98 ° C × 60 min Weight reduction processing (weight loss rate 15%) Finish set 190 ° C × 90 sec The woven fabric using the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention has a novel Kasumi-like dyeing difference and has a spun-like texture with uneven feel. A woven fabric having the characteristics of hand is obtained.

The woven fabric using the composite temporary twisted yarn of the comparative example had a short-pitched, scuff-like surface effect, and had a plain texture with almost no unevenness.

In Table 1, in Examples 1 to 5, the yarn unevenness U% was larger than that in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the peak value indicating the thickness cycle of the spectrogram was longer, and the shading of the longer cycle having a large difference in thickness was large. Differences are obtained, the fluctuation rate indicating a change in unevenness is large, and the average length is long, which supports the features of the present invention.

[0057]

[Table 1]

[0058]

As described above, the present invention is a composite temporary twisted yarn having a novel surface effect having a Kasumi-tone dyeing difference and a Kasumi-tone dyeing difference giving a spun-like texture in a knitted fabric product.

The surface effect having a novel crepe-like dyeing difference produces a difference in shade of light and shade due to the dyeing. The strong confounding and the converged portion tend to become darker when the converged portion becomes longer. When it becomes, it tends to be pale.
This repeated pattern of this length appears as a shading of light and shade, and a dark and light colored portion of a long pattern that has not been obtained conventionally can be obtained as a novel effect.

When the stretching ratio of the thick and thin processing is set to a high value, the light color tends to become the ground color, and conversely, the dark color appears as a black color. When the stretching ratio is set to a low value, the dark color becomes the ground color. In other words, the light color becomes more likely to appear as Kasura, and the desired Kasuri pattern can be freely designed.

When the light color becomes the ground color, the thickness of the thread in the dark color portion is slightly convex, and the touch feeling of one eye is easily obtained. When the dark color becomes the ground color, the thickness of the thread in the light color portion becomes It is easy to obtain a slightly thin and soft touch. These uneven textures can also be obtained as a spun-like texture having a “dry” feeling as a whole.

In the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention, the expansion / contraction restoration ratio has a low value of about 10% to 30%, depending on the thickness of the filament yarn. There is little feeling, "rebound" feeling and "tension" close to raw silk
Because it has a waist, it is ideal for gentlemen and women's outerwear.

Further, the composite temporary twisted yarn of the present invention has a large texture unevenness to the touch, and the unevenness pattern of the yarn unevenness is about 10 cm, which is comparable to that of a normal spun yarn. Can be.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an external view showing an example of a composite temporary twisted yarn having a slush-tone dyeing difference of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a process for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn having a slushy dyeing difference of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing an example of a thick and thin processing apparatus.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing another example of the thick and thin processing apparatus.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing still another example of the thick and thin processing apparatus.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Filament yarn A 2: Filament yarn B 3: Guide 4: Feed roller 5: Hot pin 6: Feed roller 7: Heater 8: Temporary twister 9: Delivery roller 10: Entangling nozzle 11: Feed roller 12: Winding roller

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A composite temporary twisted yarn in which a thick and thin temporary twisted yarn A and a thick and thin temporary twisted yarn B are entangled with each other. And a portion where the entangled portion is concentrated is present repeatedly, the length of each portion is irregular, and the yarn unevenness variation rate U% is 4 to 15%. yarn. 2. The composite temporary twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the portion which has been opened by dyeing has a light color, and the concentrated portion has a dark color. 3. The incompletely drawn filament yarns A and B of polyethylene terephthalate having different natural drawing ratios are aligned, and the thick and thin drawing of the filament yarns A and B is performed at a higher natural drawing ratio than the higher natural drawing ratio. A method for producing a composite temporary twisted yarn, comprising: performing a process, further performing a temporary temporary twisting process in the aligned state, and then performing an air entanglement process.