JP2000328383A - Hollow spun yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a hollow spun yarn having a cool refreshing feeling having a hemp like dry hand touch feeling and on top of it, also a light weighted feeling, and suitable as a material for spring and summer wears, and to provide a method for producing it. SOLUTION: This hollow spun yarn is a spun yarn in which 10-50 wt.% range sheath-core type composite short fiber consisting of a core part composed of a polyester component and a sheath part composed of a modified polyester component having 90-150 deg.C range softening temperature, is mix-spun with another organic fiber. The short fibers constituting the spun yarn are adhered at least partially and also the spun yarn is characterized by having a hollow part in its cross section.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a hollow spun yarn having both a refreshing feeling and a light feeling and suitable for spring and summer clothing and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As spring / summer clothing, conventional hemp woven fabrics and hemp woven fabrics using heavily twisted cotton yarns, and hemp woven fabrics of relatively coarse density have been used.

On the other hand, as a material for spring and summer clothing using synthetic fibers, attempts have been made to impart a suitable refreshing feeling by blending polyester short fibers of irregular cross-section represented by triangular or square cross sections with various fibers. ing.

[0004] Proposal as a lightweight material by blending with various fibers using hollow polyester short fibers or blending irregularly shaped and different denier polyester short fibers to provide inter-fiber voids in the cross section of the spun yarn. Has been made.
As a special case, a method of fusing and flattening a spun yarn of a synthetic fiber or a blended yarn of a synthetic fiber and a natural fiber is disclosed in
In 174625, a core-sheath composite short fiber having a polyester component having a melting point as a core and a modified polyester component having a softening point within a range of 90 to 110 ° C. in a sheath is used as a polyester, acrylic, nylon, cotton, hemp, Blended with short fibers such as silk and wool, without spun yarn, and after winding into a wound body, 90 ~
Cooling clothing using flat spun yarn obtained by performing a steam heat treatment under a temperature condition of 130 ° C. has been proposed.

[0005] However, in all of the above, although a refreshing sensation having a hemp-like crisp taste can be expressed, a sufficient material as a lightweight material has not yet been obtained.

[0006]

An object of the present invention is to provide a hollow spun yarn which can be preferably used for spring and summer clothing having a refreshing feeling with a hemp-like crisp taste and a light feeling. And a method for producing the same.

[0007]

The present invention has the following structure to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, (1) a core-sheath conjugate short fiber consisting of a modified polyester component whose core portion is composed of a polyester component and whose sheath portion has a softening point temperature in the range of 90 to 150 ° C. is in the range of 10 to 50% by weight of another organic material; A spun yarn mixed with fibers, wherein the short fibers constituting the spun yarn are at least partially adhered, and
A hollow spun yarn having a hollow portion in a cross section of the spun yarn.

(2) The core is made of a polyester component,
A core-sheath conjugate short fiber composed of a modified polyester component having a softening point within the range of 90 to 150 ° C. is blended with other organic fibers in the range of 10 to 50% by weight, and the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is set to 2. Spinning to be in the range of 5 to 4.5 (cotton type),
A method for producing a hollow spun yarn, characterized by fusing, flattening, then twisting, forming into a wound body, and further fixing the yarn through a heating and pressing roller at a temperature in the range of 90 to 160 ° C.

(3) The method for producing a hollow spun yarn according to the above (2), wherein the twist fixing is performed by performing a steam treatment under a temperature condition of 80 to 90 ° C.

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

As shown in FIG. 1, the core-sheath conjugate short fiber used in the spun yarn of the present invention is a denatured polyester component having a core made of a polyester component having a normal melting point and a sheath having a softening point temperature of 90 to 150 ° C. It is a short fiber consisting of

As the polyester component having a normal melting point in the present invention, for example, polyethylene terephthalate such as a polyester component having a melting point of 180 ° C. or more and 262 ° C. or less is mainly preferably used.
As long as the temperature is at least 262 ° C., a copolymerized polyester having a copolymer component in addition to terephthalate acid and ethylene glycol can be used.

The polyester component having the normal melting point is located inside the fiber and forms a core.

On the other hand, as the modified polyester component having a softening point of 90 to 150 ° C., for example, an isophthalic acid polyester having an amorphous softening property and having a softening point temperature within the above range is preferably used. This softening point temperature is 90
The modified polyester component at 〜150 ° C. is located outside the fiber and forms a sheath.

As described above, by making the outside component of the fiber a modified polyester component having the above softening point temperature range,
The component will have thermal adhesion at a lower temperature than the polyester component of the normal melting point. Furthermore, the core-sheath composite ratio of the normal melting point polyester component forming the core component and the modified polyester component having a softening point temperature of 90 to 150 ° C. forming the sheath component is 40 to 60% by weight of the sheath component: 60 to 40% by weight of the core component.
Is preferred. For example, the softening point temperature 9 for forming the sheath component
When the core-sheath composite ratio of the modified polyester component at 0 to 150 ° C. exceeds 60% by weight, although it has a function as an adhesive, it does not have a strong fiber holding function, and
The yarn strength of the spun yarn obtained by blending the short fibers is low, the spinnability and the weaving property are reduced, and the fabric strength of the product becomes a practically problematic level. Conversely, if the modified polyester component having a softening point temperature of 90 to 150 ° C. that forms the sheath component has a core-sheath composite ratio of less than 40% by weight, the thermal adhesiveness between short fibers constituting the spun yarn decreases, and the spun yarn Of the form is reduced. Therefore, since the core-sheath composite ratio of the core-sheath composite short fiber makes the most effective use of the strength-retaining and heat-adhesive functions, the core-sheath composite ratio is 40 to 60% by weight of the sheath component: 60 to 40% by weight of the core component. % Of the core-sheath conjugate short fiber constituting the spun yarn of the present invention whose preferred range is 10%.
It is preferably in the range of 50% by weight to 50% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 15% by weight to 30% by weight.

As described above, the softening point temperature is 90 to 150.
When the percentage of the modified polyester component at 50 ° C. in the core-sheath conjugate short fibers is 50% by weight, the content of the modified polyester component in the whole hollow spun yarn of the present invention is 5% by weight to 25% by weight. This is very important.

When the content of the modified polyester component is less than 5% by weight, the adhesion between short fibers constituting the hollow spun yarn is scattered in spots, and the shape retention of the spun yarn is deteriorated. . On the other hand, if the content of the modified polyester component exceeds 25% by weight, the adhesion spreads over the entire cross section of the yarn, the spun yarn itself becomes rigid, easily broken, and when made into a fabric, the texture becomes coarse and hard. As it becomes difficult to use. Therefore, the content of the modified polyester component in the spun yarn is preferably in the range of 5% by weight to 25% by weight.

The organic fibers constituting the spun yarn of the present invention, which are blended materials of the core-sheath composite short fibers, include natural fibers typified by cotton and wool, regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon and cupra, polyesters, and the like. Any of synthetic fibers such as nylon and acrylic is preferable, and can be selected according to the product use.

Next, a method for producing a hollow spun yarn of the present invention will be described.

A core-sheath composite short fiber consisting of a modified polyester component having a softening point of 90 to 150 ° C. in which the core portion is usually composed of a polyester component having a melting point and 10 to 50% by weight of other organic short fibers is usually spun. The raw cotton blended in the blended cotton process or the sliver blended in the drawing process is mixed in a blending method, and the twist coefficient is 2.5 to 4.5 (cotton type) by a ring spinning machine. ) To form a spun yarn.
Here, the twist coefficient is preferably within the above range in consideration of the spinning process passability, spinning productivity, or product texture. That is, when the twist coefficient is less than 2.5, spinning breakage increases, and spinning operability becomes poor. When the twist coefficient exceeds 4.5, spinning productivity decreases, and further, the product texture becomes coarse and hard. Becomes

Next, the yarn tube spun by the spinning machine is formed into a cheese or cone-shaped wound body by an ordinary winding machine.
The spun yarn unwrapped from the wound body 8 is wound around a pair of rollers, that is, a pressure roller 5 and a heating roller 6, several times through a guide 10 via a guide 10, via a separate roller 7, and heated. Roller surface temperature 100 to 160
The spun yarn is flattened and fixed by the pressure of the pressure roller 5 while the modified polyester component having a softening point temperature of 90 to 150 ° C. is melted in the range of 0 ° C., and wound around the winding machine 9.

The surface temperature of the heating roller is preferably set to be higher than the softening point temperature of the modified polyester component, and is set in the range of 100 to 160 ° C. in consideration of the adhesiveness with the organic short fiber which is the material to be blended. Is preferred. The yarn that has been melted and flattened by the pressure and heating rollers is naturally cooled between the winders from the point where the yarn has passed through the two pairs of rollers, and fixes the melted modified polyester component.
Therefore, it is wound around the winding machine 9 while being fixed in a flat shape. The yarn speed in the pressure and heat treatment is preferably in the range of 200 to 500 m / min for more stable flat fixing.

Next, the spun yarn fixed in a flat shape is twisted by an ordinary ring twisting machine or a double twister to form a spun yarn having a hollow cross-sectional shape shown in FIGS. .

FIG. 2 schematically shows a cross section of the hollow spun yarn, which has a hollow section 4. The denatured polyester component melted by heating acts as an adhesive and is melt-bonded to other organic fibers 3.

FIG. 3 schematically shows a side view of the hollow spun yarn of the present invention, in which a flat fixed spun yarn is twisted, and the flat width w of the flat fixed spun yarn is adjusted with the twist pitch p. When the values are equal, an ideal hollow spun yarn shape is obtained. That is, the flat-fixed spun yarn is twisted in a spiral shape, and the flat-fixed spun yarn is spirally arranged without gaps, and a space is formed inside the spun yarn to form a tubular (coiled) shape.
Is formed. Specifically, if the flat width w of the flat and fixed spun yarn is, for example, 2 mm, a twist pitch of 2 mm will be obtained if 12.5 twists are given between inches, and the relationship of p = w will be established. It becomes a more stable hollow spun yarn.

The twisting direction is opposite to the original twist of the spun yarn.
That is, the untwisting direction, or the forward direction of the original twist of the spun yarn,
That is, it may be in any of the twisting directions, and is selected according to the feeling of the product to be obtained.

The relationship between the flat width w and the yarn diameter of the hollow spun yarn of the present invention is based on the premise that the values of the twist pitch p and the flat width w are set to be equal to each other. The curvature of the spiral portion during twisting of the spun yarn increases, and as a result, the diameter of the hollow portion also increases.

That is, when flattening and fixing with a heating and pressure roller, the softening point temperature is 90 to 90 under the same conditions such as temperature and pressure.
When a modified polyester component at 150 ° C. is used as a sheath and a spun yarn with a different blending ratio of a core-sheath composite short fiber having a polyester component having a normal melting point as a core is treated, the blending ratio of the core-sheath composite short fiber increases. , The flat width w also tends to increase.
That is, in proportion to the blending ratio of the core-sheath conjugate short fibers, the denatured polyester component also increases, and there are many fused portions in the spun yarn, and the fused portions are easily affected by heating and pressure, Deformation is likely to occur, and as a result, the flat width w also increases. As described above, when the flat width w increases, the yarn diameter also increases, and the hollow portion also increases in conjunction with it.

The twisted q hollow spun yarn is again cheese-like,
Alternatively, it is formed in a cone-shaped wound body. The winding density here is set lower than usual in order to maintain the hollow shape in the twist fixing step described below.

Next, in order to eliminate the twisting torque generated in the twisting step and to fix the shape of the hollow spun yarn, it is cheese-like or cone-like at 80 to 90 ° C. with a steam setter. By performing the heat treatment, the hollow spun yarn of the present invention can be obtained.

Now, the present invention will be described in further detail with reference to Examples.

[0032]

EXAMPLES The evaluation method used in the present invention will be specifically described below. [Spun yarn hollow shape] The cross-sectional shape of the hollow spun yarn was observed with an optical microscope to determine the presence or absence of a hollow portion.

×: No hollow portion.

Δ: A hollow part is slightly recognized.

：: recognized: clearly recognized [Hand feeling] The hollow spun yarn was circularly knitted in a sheeting structure and dyed, and then the hand feeling was evaluated organoleptically.

×: defective.

Δ: Somewhat good.

：: good (sharper).

◎: very good (clear sharpness) [Lightweight feeling] The hollow spun yarn was circularly knitted in a sheeting structure, dyed, sewed on a cardigan, and subjected to a sensory evaluation of the lightweight feeling worn.

×: No light feeling.

○: Somewhat light weight feeling.

◎: Clearly light feeling. (Example 1) Isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester having a softening point of 110 ° C was 50% by weight in the sheath component, and the melting point was 260 in the core component.
Core-sheath composite short fiber containing 50% by weight of a homopolyester at 50 ° C. 2
d × 51 mm is blended with 10% by weight and normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester short fiber having a melting point of 2.5d × 51 mm 90% by weight, and has a twist coefficient of 3.0 (cotton type) and a twist coefficient of 2 in the twist direction Z.
0's (cotton count) was spun. The spun yarn has a surface temperature of 14
Pass the yarn at a yarn speed of 200 m / min between two pairs of a heating roller at 0 ° C. and a pressure roller pressed at 20 kg,
Heat and pressure treatments were applied to obtain flat and fixed spun yarn. Thereafter, the flat fixed spun yarn is twisted in a twist direction S at 17 turns / inch by a ring twisting machine, and a winding density of 0.3
The cheese was wound at 5 g / cm and steam set at 80 ° C. × 20 min to obtain a twisted hollow spun yarn.

The spun yarn obtained by the above method was knitted in a circular knit with a 24 G sheeting structure, dyed, and sewn into a cardigan. Table 1 shows the results of observation of the cross-sectional shape of the obtained hollow spun yarn, and the results of sensory evaluation on the texture of the fabric and the lightness when worn. (Example 2) Isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester having a softening point of 110 ° C was 50% by weight in the sheath component, and the melting point was 260 in the core component.
Core-sheath composite short fiber containing 50% by weight of a homopolyester at 50 ° C. 2
d × 51 mm is blended with 30% by weight and normal pressure cationically dyeable polyester short fiber having a melting point of 2.5d × 51 mm and 70% by weight, and has a twist coefficient of 3.0 (cotton type) and a twist of 2 in the twist direction Z.
0's (cotton count) was spun. The spun yarn has a surface temperature of 14
Pass the yarn at a yarn speed of 200 m / min between two pairs of a heating roller at 0 ° C. and a pressing roller pressed at 20 kg,
Heat and pressure treatments were applied to obtain flat and fixed spun yarn. Thereafter, the flat and fixed spun yarn is twisted in a twist direction S at 17 turns / inch by a ring twisting machine, and a winding density of 0.3
A cheese was wound at 5 g / cm and steam set at 80 ° C. × 20 min to obtain a twisted hollow spun yarn.

The spun yarn obtained by the above method was knitted in a circular knit with a 24 G sheeting structure, dyed, and sewn into a cardigan. Table 1 shows the results of observation of the cross-sectional shape of the obtained hollow spun yarn, and the results of sensory evaluation on the texture of the fabric and the lightness when worn. Example 3 50% by weight of isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester having a softening point of 110 ° C. as a sheath component and melting point of 260% as a core component
Core-sheath composite short fiber containing 50% by weight of a homopolyester at 50 ° C. 2
d × 51 mm is blended with 50% by weight, and 2.5 d × 51 mm 50% by weight of normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester short fiber having a normal melting point, a twist coefficient of 3.0 (cotton type), and a twist coefficient of 2 in the twist direction Z.
0's (cotton count) was spun. The spun yarn has a surface temperature of 14
Pass the yarn at a yarn speed of 200 m / min between two pairs of a heating roller at 0 ° C. and a pressure roller pressed at 20 kg,
Heat and pressure treatments were applied to obtain flat and fixed spun yarn. Thereafter, the flat fixed spun yarn is twisted in a twist direction S at 17 turns / inch by a ring twisting machine, and a winding density of 0.3
A cheese was wound at 5 g / cm and steam set at 80 ° C. × 20 min to obtain a twisted hollow spun yarn.

The spun yarn obtained by the above method was knitted in a circular knit with a 24 G sheeting structure, dyed, and sewn into a cardigan. Table 1 shows the results of observation of the cross-sectional shape of the obtained hollow spun yarn, and the results of sensory evaluation on the texture of the fabric and the lightness when worn. Comparative Example 1 50% by weight of isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester having a softening point of 110 ° C. was used as a sheath component and melting point was 260 as a core component.
Core-sheath composite short fiber containing 50% by weight of a homopolyester at 50 ° C. 2
d × 51 mm at 5% by weight, normal pressure cationically dyeable polyester staple fiber having a melting point of 2.5 d × 51 mm at 95% by weight
Blend with 3.0, twist coefficient 3.0 (cotton formula), 2 in twist direction Z
0's (cotton count) was spun. The spun yarn has a surface temperature of 14
Pass the yarn at a yarn speed of 200 m / min between two pairs of a heating roller at 0 ° C. and a pressure roller pressed at 20 kg,
Heat and pressure treatments were applied to obtain flat and fixed spun yarn. Thereafter, the flat and fixed spun yarn is twisted in a twist direction S at 17 turns / inch by a ring twisting machine, and a winding density of 0.3
A cheese was wound at 5 g / cm and steam set at 80 ° C. × 20 min to obtain a twisted hollow spun yarn.

The spun yarn obtained by the above-described method was knitted in a circular knit with a 24 G sheeting structure, dyed, and sewn into a cardigan. Table 1 shows the results of observation of the cross-sectional shape of the obtained hollow spun yarn, and the results of sensory evaluation on the texture of the fabric and the lightness when worn. Comparative Example 2 50% by weight of isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester having a softening point of 110 ° C. was used as a sheath component, and a melting point of 260 was used as a core component.
Core-sheath composite short fiber containing 50% by weight of a homopolyester at 50 ° C. 2
d × 51 mm is blended with 60% by weight and normal pressure cationically dyeable polyester short fiber having a melting point of 2.5d × 51 mm and 40% by weight, and has a twist coefficient of 3.0 (cotton type) and a twist of 2 in the twist direction Z.
0's (cotton count) was spun. The spun yarn has a surface temperature of 14
Pass the yarn at a yarn speed of 200 m / min between two pairs of a heating roller at 0 ° C. and a pressure roller pressed at 20 kg,
Heat and pressure treatments were applied to obtain flat and fixed spun yarn. Thereafter, the flat fixed spun yarn is twisted in a twist direction S at 17 turns / inch by a ring twisting machine, and a winding density of 0.3
A cheese was wound at 5 g / cm and steam set at 80 ° C. × 20 min to obtain a twisted hollow spun yarn.

The spun yarn obtained by the above method was knitted in a circular knit with a 24G sheeting structure, dyed, and sewn into a cardigan. Table 1 shows the results of the sensory evaluation on the cross-sectional shape observation results of the obtained hollow spun yarn, the texture of the fabric, and the lightness when worn.

[0048]

[Table 1]

Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the hollow spun yarn obtained in Example 1, although it was small, it had a hollow structure, and both the texture and the lightness were recognized to be effective. Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the hollow spun yarn obtained in Example 2, the hollow spun yarn had a hollow structure, and both the feel and the lightness were good. The hollow spun yarn obtained in Example 3 had a clear hollow structure, and had a good lightness. However, the texture was slightly stiffer, although there was a sharp feeling.

The cross-sectional shape of the hollow spun yarn obtained in Comparative Example 1 did not exhibit a hollow structure at all, and thus was not light in weight. In addition, since there were few fusion bonding points, there was no sharp feeling and the refreshing feeling was lacking.

Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the hollow spun yarn obtained in Comparative Example 2, a hollow structure was clearly exhibited, and a light feeling was obtained. However, the texture became coarse and hard, and it was not suitable for clothing. Became.

[0052]

According to the present invention having the above-described structure, excellent operational effects can be obtained. That is, the hollow spun yarn according to the present invention is extremely excellent in shape retention because the fibers are bonded to each other, and can sufficiently exhibit its function even when commercialized.

Further, there is little fuzz peculiar to the spun yarn, and slipping of the short fiber hardly occurs. As a result, fluffing due to friction at the time of wearing is small, and occurrence of pilling in which the fluff is entangled alternately can be prevented. In the case where the hollow spun yarn of the present invention is developed for textile use, gluing of the warp yarn can be omitted, and the process can be streamlined.

Next, the hollow spun yarn of the present invention mainly has an appropriate sharpness due to its adhesive structure, and can impart a refreshing feeling accordingly. Furthermore, since it mainly has a hollow cross-sectional structure, the garment has an extremely lightweight feeling. Further, since air is present in the hollow portion of the hollow spun yarn, and the air layer blocks the temperature of the outside air, the temperature inside the clothes does not rise, so that it is extremely effective as a cool clothing for summer.

Therefore, it is suitable as a material for clothing for spring and summer as a woven or knitted fabric, and can be generally used for various uses such as a summer sweater, a summer suit, a cardigan, a shirt, and a blouse.

The hollow spun yarn according to the present invention can be manufactured by a simple method, and a high value-added product can be obtained without increasing the cost excessively.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing a core-sheath conjugate short fiber whose core portion is composed of a polyester component having a normal melting point and whose sheath portion is composed of a modified polyester component having a softening point temperature in the range of 90 ° C. to 150 ° C.

FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing a hollow spun yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a side view schematically showing an example of the hollow spun yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing an example of a heating and pressing step for flattening and fixing a spun yarn as an intermediate step for producing the hollow spun yarn of the present invention.

[Description of Signs] 1: Modified polyester component 2: Polyester component having a normal melting point 3: Other organic short fiber 4: Hollow portion 5: Pressure roller 6: Heating roller 7: Separate roller 8: Winding body 9: Winding yarn Machine 10: Guide

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA15 MA35 PA18 PA19 PA21 PA31 RA10 RA24 UA01 4L041 BA02 BA05 BA21 BA49 BC04 BD03 BD12 BD14 BD20 CA05 CA11 DD01 DD05 DD14

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath type conjugate short fiber comprising a modified polyester component having a core portion composed of a polyester component and a sheath portion having a softening point temperature in the range of 90 to 150 ° C. is 10 to 50% by weight.
A spun yarn mixed with other organic fibers in the range of, wherein the short fibers constituting the spun yarn are at least partially adhered, and have a hollow portion in a cross section of the spun yarn. Spun yarn. 2. A core-sheath type composite staple fiber comprising a modified polyester component having a core portion composed of a polyester component and a sheath portion having a softening point of 90 to 150 ° C. in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight.
And spun so that the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is in the range of 2.5 to 4.5 (cotton type), and then passed through a heating and pressing roller in the range of 90 to 160 ° C. A method for producing a hollow spun yarn, comprising: fusing, flattening, twisting, forming into a wound body, and further fixing the yarn. 3. The method for producing a hollow spun yarn according to claim 2, wherein the twist fixing is performed by performing a steam treatment under a temperature condition of 80 to 90 ° C.