JP2000327545A - First agent for permanent wave - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a first agent for permanent wave capable of suppressing the damage to hair at the time of perming treatment, enhancing the waving power of the hair after the treatment, imparting gloss and moistness to the hair and finishing the hair in a pliant touch. SOLUTION: This first agent is composed by including an oxidized partial hydrolyzate of keratin or its salt represented by the general formula [R denotes an amino acid side chain of a peptide derived from the keratin; m is 2-20; n is 20-200; M is hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonia, a lower alkanolamine or a lower alkylamine, (with the proviso that m and n denote each only the number of amino acids without denoting the order of amino acid sequence)] in the first agent for permanent wave comprising a reducing agent as a principal ingredient.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a first agent for permanent waving, and more specifically, to prevent damage to hair during permanent waving treatment, increase the waving power of hair after treatment, and provide excellent gloss to hair. , Moisturize,
The present invention also relates to a first agent for permanent wave, which can finish hair with a supple feel.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Permanent wave agents generally used in the past include aqueous solutions containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or cysteine as a main component and a basic substance such as ammonia, monoethanolamine or triethanolamine. Was adjusted to a pH of 8 to 10 as a first agent, and an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide was used as a second agent.

[0003] A mechanism for waving hair with such a permanent waving agent is to apply a first agent to the hair, wind the hair around a rod and curl the hair, and then use the first agent to construct the hair constituent protein ( A protein), the disulfide bond of cystine in keratin is reductively cleaved to form a mercapto group, and then the second agent oxidizes the mercapto group to form a disulfide bond at a new position on the hair, thereby immobilizing the wave. It is to let.

However, in the case of using such a permanent waving agent, the disulfide bond of cystine cleaved by the reducing agent by the first agent is completely restored to the original by the oxidation by the second agent. The cystine is not always regenerated, and part of the mercapto group generated from the cystine by the treatment with the first agent undergoes excessive oxidation by the second agent, causing side reactions such as generation of cysteic acid. As a result, a part of the keratin protein in the hair elutes, and other parts of the hair also undergo physical and chemical changes, resulting in damage. As a result, the hair not only gives a sense of discomfort and crispness but also causes a great deal of damage to the hair.

[0005] Therefore, the permanent wave agent,
2. Description of the Related Art Hydrolysis peptides obtained by hydrolyzing proteins derived from natural products such as collagen, keratin, silk, soybean, and wheat, and derivatives thereof have been blended. This means that these hydrolyzed peptides and their derivatives have good sorption properties to hair, have the effect of preventing hair damage, recovering damaged hair, and imparting moisturizing properties to hair, and This is because these hydrolyzed peptides and derivatives thereof are derived from natural proteins, are less irritating to hair and skin, and are highly safe.

[0006] Among the above protein sources, keratin, in particular, has a high cystine content, and hydrolyzed keratin easily binds to cystine in hair keratin, and therefore has excellent sorption properties to hair, and has an effect of preventing hair damage. Because of the great effect of recovering damaged hair, it has been blended with the first agent for permanent waving to prevent hair damage during permanent waving (for example, JP-A-55-89216, JP-A-56-89). No. 65812, JP-A-61-18321
No. 2 publication).

However, hydrolyzed keratin generally used in hair cosmetics has a number average molecular weight of 200 to 200.
Most of them are of the order of 2000 and have good sorption properties to hair, but have a problem that they are inferior to hydrolyzed collagen and hydrolyzed silk in terms of film forming ability and gloss imparting action. The reason for limiting the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed keratin used in hair cosmetics to the above range is that if the molecular weight is too small, the ability to form a film is reduced and the hair protecting effect is reduced,
Conversely, when the molecular weight is large, the solubility in water is reduced and precipitation is easy, or it becomes easy to cause turbidity or precipitation during storage by associating with other components in the cosmetic formulation, and the hydrolysis peptide No. 1 for permanent wave
There was a similar problem in the preparation.

[0008] The above-mentioned hydrolyzed keratin is generally obtained by hydrolyzing keratin with hydrochloric acid, an enzyme or an alkali.
It has also been proposed to mix α-keratose (oxidized decomposed product of keratin) obtained by isoelectric precipitation on the acidic side with cosmetics such as shampoos and hair rinses (for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-9600, Kosho 61-60
807, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-38563, etc.).

However, α-keratose described in the above publication has a large molecular weight of 30,000 or more and a wide distribution range of molecular weight. Therefore, when applied to hair, it can impart a strong beam to hair, In addition to giving a stiff feeling to the hair, it tends to cause turbidity and sedimentation when blended in hair cosmetics, and has a problem of lacking storage stability. At present, it is hardly used.

The first agent for permanent waving contains natural polymers, semi-synthetic polymers, synthetic polymers, etc. in order to enhance the waving effect and give the hair a beam. Natural polymer-based and cellulosic semi-synthetic polymers have the disadvantage that they tend to sticky under high humidity and lose their hair-styling power,
Synthetic polymers tend to cause flaking (a phenomenon in which the formed film cracks and peel off in the form of scales) during drying. In addition, the high content of the synthetic polymer gives the hair a hard, stiff feel. there were.

[0011] Furthermore, the hair styling effect of a semi-synthetic polymer or a synthetic polymer is mostly obtained by bonding hairs together, so that a high wave force is exhibited immediately after permanent wave treatment, but brushing or combing is performed. As a result, there is also a drawback that the film that bonds the hairs is broken, and the wave is easily lost.

[0012] Recently, consumers have been more and more interested in cosmetics derived from natural products. In addition, there has been a strong demand for cosmetic raw materials having excellent biodegradability in consideration of the environment after use. There is a demand for a cosmetic raw material that can be used as a natural product to give the hair a good feel and impart strong setting power and a wave effect to the hair.

[0013]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, to prevent damage to hair at the time of permanent wave treatment, to increase the wave power of the hair after treatment, and to provide excellent gloss to hair. It is an object of the present invention to provide a first agent for permanent waving that can impart moisture and finish hair with a supple feel.

[0014]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have obtained a permanent oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin represented by the following general formula (I) or a salt thereof. When blending into the first agent for
Prevents hair damage during permanent wave treatment, restores damaged hair, enhances the waving power of treated hair, and can impart excellent gloss and moisture to hair and makes hair supple They found that they could be finished to the touch, and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention relates to a first agent for permanent wave containing a reducing agent as a main agent, which is represented by the general formula (I):

[0016]

Embedded image

[Wherein, R represents an amino acid side chain of a keratin-derived peptide, m is 2 to 20, n is 20 to 200, M is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonia, lower Alkanolamine or lower alkylamine (however, m and n only indicate the number of amino acids, and do not indicate the order of amino acid sequences)], or a partially decomposed product of keratin or a salt thereof. And a first agent for permanent wave.

In the present specification, the number average molecular weight is the average number of peptides obtained from the total nitrogen content and amino nitrogen content of the oxidized partial decomposition product of keratin, and the number of various amino acids determined by amino acid analysis of keratin. It is a value calculated based on the average molecular weight of amino acids obtained from the ratio.

That is, the number average molecular weight is calculated by the following equation.

In the above formula, the reason why “18” is subtracted from the average amino acid molecular weight is that one molecule of water (H ₂ O) is dehydrated for one amino acid when a peptide bond is formed. , “18”, and finally “18” is added to the “OH” of the terminal COOH.
And the molecular weight “17 and 1” of “H” of terminal NH ₂ .

The average amino acid molecular weight of keratin is determined by determining the ratio of amino acids present by amino acid analysis, multiplying the ratio by the molecular weight of each amino acid, and summing the results.
24.

[0022]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Keratin which is a starting material for a partially decomposed oxidized product of keratin represented by the general formula (I) or a salt thereof contained in the first agent for permanent waving of the present invention includes, for example, wool and feather Keratin constituting hair, horns, nails, hooves and the like can be used, but wool is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of easy availability.

The oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin represented by the above general formula (I) or a salt thereof has a number average molecular weight of about 200
Although it is adjusted to 0 to about 20,000, as a method for producing an oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin represented by the general formula (I) or a salt thereof, for example, keratin is hydrolyzed with an alkali agent, After oxidizing with an oxidizing agent, a method of generating the oxidizing solution by adjusting the pH to 3 to 4 is adopted. More specifically, for example, wool is immersed in an aqueous solution of an alkaline agent such as sodium hydroxide.
After hydrolyzing at 1 ° C for 1 to 6 hours, oxidize with an oxidizing agent such as aqueous hydrogen peroxide or formic acid, and after filtration, adjust the pH to 3 to 4 by adding an acid such as hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid to the filtrate to make it insoluble. Precipitate and separate. Next, the above-mentioned insolubles are washed with a saline solution or the like, and then dissolved in aqueous ethanol having a concentration of about 50% (% by weight, hereinafter, unless otherwise specified, the concentration is all% by weight). Or sodium hydroxide,
It is obtained as an aqueous solution in the form of an alkali salt by neutralizing and dissolving with a basic substance such as aqueous ammonia or alkanolamine to pH 6 to 8.

As described above, the oxidatively decomposed product of keratin (α-keratose) conventionally used has a molecular weight of 3000.
0 or more (however, the molecular weight in gel filtration analysis) is large,
Due to the wide molecular weight distribution, it gives a stiff feel to hair when applied to hair, and has the drawback of lacking storage stability due to turbidity and sedimentation when formulated into cosmetics. The oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin represented by the general formula (I) or a salt thereof contained in the first agent for use has a number average molecular weight of about 2000 to about 2
Since it is adjusted to 0000, it does not give a stiff feeling when applied to hair, and has a narrow molecular weight distribution, which may cause turbidity or precipitation when blended with the first agent for permanent wave. And storage stability is excellent.

In the general formula (I) representing the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin or a salt thereof contained in the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention, m is 2 to 20, and n is 20 to 20.
The reason is that the oxidized partial decomposition product of keratin or a salt thereof has a number average molecular weight of about 2,000 to about 20,000, and cysteine is contained at a ratio of about one to ten amino acids, The cysteine moiety is oxidized to form a moiety whose number is indicated by m.

In the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention, the amount of the partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin represented by the above general formula (I) or a salt thereof in the first agent for permanent wave (the first agent for permanent wave) Content in the composition) is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 5% by weight. That is, when the amount of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin or a salt thereof in the first agent for permanent waving is less than the above range, the hair is protected to prevent the hair from being damaged, and the damaged hair can be recovered. In particular, it may not be possible to increase the wave power of the treated hair, and furthermore, it may not be possible to impart excellent gloss, moisture, etc. to the treated hair, or to finish the hair with a supple feel, Even if the amount of the partially decomposed product of keratin or a salt thereof in the first agent for permanent waving is more than the above range, no increase in the effect with the increase in the amount is observed, and the hair becomes sticky or sticky. May give a feeling.

The reducing agent serves as a main agent for reducing and breaking the disulfide bond of cystine in keratin, which is a constituent protein of the hair, so that the hair is waved. For example, thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, thioglycolic acid salts such as thioglycolic acid monoethanolamine, thioglycolic acid esters such as glycerin thioglycolate, cysteine, cysteine hydrochloride, cysteine salts such as acetylcysteine, Thioglycerol,
Organic mercaptan compounds such as thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, cysteamine, cysteamine salt, sodium sulfite,
Sulfites such as sodium bisulfite, potassium sulfite and ammonium sulfite are used.

These reducing agents may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The content of the reducing agent in the first agent for permanent wave is preferably 1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight. That is, if the content of the reducing agent in the first agent for permanent wave is less than the above range, sufficient waving cannot be applied to the hair, and the content of the reducing agent in the first agent for permanent wave. Is more than the above range, the disulfide bond of the hair is excessively reduced, the protein is eluted from the hair intensely, and the hair may be damaged much.

The first agent for permanent wave of the present invention comprises the above-mentioned reducing agent and the above-mentioned partially decomposed oxidized product of keratin or a salt thereof as essential components, and comprises these components in water or a liquid containing water as a main component. Prepared. Naturally, the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin or a salt thereof may be added to the first agent for permanent wave which has been prepared or is being prepared containing a reducing agent. The order may be any order. To the first agent for permanent wave of the present invention, other components can be appropriately added in addition to the above essential components as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

Examples of these components include alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and polyoxyethylene (2EO) lauryl ether triethanolamine sulfate (here, EO
Is ethylene oxide, and the value before EO indicates the number of moles of ethylene oxide added), such as polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, alkylbenzene sulfonate such as sodium laurylbenzenesulfonate, and polyoxyethylene (3EO) tridecyl. Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether acetates such as sodium ether acetate, coconut oil fatty acid sarcosine sodium, coconut oil fatty acid-sodium L-glutamate, N-acyl amino acid salts such as sodium lauroylmethyltaurine, sodium ether sulfate alkane sulfonate, oleic acid amide Disodium sulfosuccinate, polyoxyethylene alkyl (C12-16) ether phosphoric acid (2-12
EO), polysodium lauryl dioxyethylene sulfosuccinate, potassium undecylenoyl hydrolyzed collagen, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed collagen, coconut oil fatty acid hydrolyzed collagen sodium and potassium,
Anionic surfactants such as salts such as triethanolamine, 2-alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, stearyl dihydroxyethyl betaine, coconut fatty acid amidopropyl betaine, and coconut alkyl-N- Ampholytic surfactants such as carboxyethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine sodium, N-coconut fatty acid acyl-L-arginineethyl / DL-pyrrolidonecarboxylate, polyoxyethylene alkyl (C12-14)
Nonionic surfactants such as ether (7EO), polyoxyethylene glyceryl oleate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene lanolin alcohol, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, trichloride [Polyoxyethylene (5EO)] Cationic surfactant such as stearyl ammonium, cationic polymer, amphoteric polymer,
Thickening of synthetic polymers such as anionic polymers, diethanolamide isostearate, diethanolamide oleate, diethylaminoethylamide stearate, coconut fatty acid ethanolamide, lanolin fatty acid diethanolamide, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, carrageenan, xanthan gum Agents, anti-inflammatory agents, penetrants such as coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamide, sorbitan monolaurate, benzyl alcohol, wax, paraffin, fatty acid esters,
Oils and fats such as animal and vegetable oils, animal and plant extracts, hydrolyzed peptides of proteins derived from animals and plants and microorganisms and derivatives thereof, humectants such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycol, lower alcohols , Higher alcohols, amino acids and the like.

[0031]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The first agent for permanent waving of the present invention prevents damage to the hair during the permanent waving treatment, increases the waving power of the hair after the treatment, and imparts excellent gloss and moisture to the hair. And can give the hair a supple feel.

[0032]

Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to only these examples. Prior to the examples, a method for producing an oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin represented by the general formula (I) or a salt thereof will be described as a reference example. Prior to the examples, the method of permanent wave treatment of hair, the method of calculating the wave ratio, and the method of testing the tensile strength of hair performed in the examples are also described.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE 1 1000 g of water and 17 g of sodium hydroxide were placed in a beaker having an internal volume of 5 liters, and 250 g of crushed wool was stirred.
Was added and stirring was continued at 80 ° C. for 6 hours to hydrolyze the wool. After the hydrolysis, the mixture was cooled to room temperature, 150 g of 35% hydrogen peroxide solution was added, stirring was continued for 1 hour, and the mixture was left standing for 24 hours to oxidize the decomposition solution. After completion of the oxidation, the solution was filtered to remove insolubles, and 40 g of 36% hydrochloric acid was added to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the solution to 3.5, and the insolubles were separated as floating precipitates. The lower aqueous layer was removed, and the insoluble material was removed from 0.5% saline 35.
Washed twice with 0 g. After washing, the insolubles were dissolved in a 50% aqueous ethanol solution, and the concentration was adjusted to obtain 530 g of a 20% solids aqueous ethanol solution. The number average molecular weight of the oxidized partial decomposition product of keratin thus obtained was 4,276.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE 2 1000 g of water and 25 g of sodium hydroxide were placed in a beaker having an internal volume of 5 liters, and 250 g of crushed wool was stirred.
Was added and stirring was continued at 80 ° C. for 5 hours to hydrolyze the wool. After the hydrolysis, the mixture was cooled to room temperature, 150 g of 35% hydrogen peroxide solution was added, stirring was continued for 1 hour, and the mixture was left standing for 24 hours to oxidize the decomposition solution. After completion of the oxidation, the solution was filtered to remove insolubles, and 40 g of 36% hydrochloric acid was added to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the solution to 3.5, and the insolubles were separated as floating precipitates. The lower aqueous layer was removed, and the insolubles were removed with 0.5% saline 30.
Washed twice with 0 g. After washing, the insoluble matter is dissolved in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution, adjusted to pH 7 and 600 g of an aqueous solution of a sodium salt of a partially decomposed keratin oxide having a solid content of 20% is applied.
Obtained. The number average molecular weight of the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin thus obtained was 3,520.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE 3 1000 g of water and 10 g of sodium hydroxide were placed in a beaker having an inner volume of 5 liters, and 250 g of crushed wool was stirred.
Was added and stirring was continued at 80 ° C. for 3 hours to hydrolyze the wool. After the hydrolysis, the mixture was cooled to room temperature, 150 g of 35% hydrogen peroxide solution was added, stirring was continued for 1 hour, and the mixture was left standing for 24 hours to oxidize the decomposition solution. After completion of the oxidation, the solution was filtered to remove insolubles, and 40 g of 36% hydrochloric acid was added to the filtrate to adjust the pH of the solution to 3.5, and the insolubles were separated as floating precipitates. The lower aqueous layer was removed, and the insolubles were reduced to 0.5% saline 35.
Washed twice with 0 g. After washing, the insolubles were dissolved in triethanolamine, adjusted to pH 7 and a 20% aqueous solution was added to 677.
g was obtained. The number average molecular weight of the triethanolamine salt of the partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin thus obtained was 8546.
Met.

[Permanent wave treatment method of hair and calculation method of wave ratio]
Immerse in a 0.5% aqueous solution of polyoxyethylene (3) sodium lauryl sulfate at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes, wash, rinse in warm running water for 1 minute, and further in ion-exchanged water.
Rinse for a minute and dry with a hair dryer. A hair bundle consisting of these 40 hairs is prepared, and the hair root side is fixed with an adhesive. A point 30 mm from the root side is marked with nail enamel, and this point is designated as A.
A mark is also made at the position of 0 mm, and this point is defined as point B. A weight of 50 g was attached to the tip of the hair so that the hair bundle could be wound around a rod with a constant tension, and the diameter was 12 mm and the length was 80 mm.
The root side is fixed to the rod with a rubber band, and the hair bundle is hung up and wound around the rod so that the hairs do not overlap and there is no gap. The permanent wave treatment is performed by applying the first agent for permanent wave 0.5 on the hair.
ml, apply evenly using a female pipette, cover the rod with wrap, leave it for 15 minutes, gently wash it with running water for 30 seconds, remove excess water with a towel, and then apply the second agent for permanent wave. The coating is performed by applying 0.5 ml, leaving the mixture to stand for 15 minutes, and then washing with running water for 30 seconds. After washing, remove the hair bundle from the rod, remove excess water with a towel, suspend vertically with the root side up, and measure the distance between AB.

As described above, since the length between AB before the permanent wave processing is 200 mm, the wave ratio can be obtained by the following equation.

[0038]

Further, a 3 g weight was attached to the tip of the hair bundle whose wave ratio was measured, suspended for 1 week at room temperature, and after removing the weight, the hair bundle was immersed in 25 ° C. tap water for 5 minutes. After removing excess water with a towel, measure the distance between AB,
The wave ratio after applying a load for one week can also be obtained from the above equation.

In the test, three hair tresses were treated for each of the first agents for the permanent wave, and the wave ratio was represented by an average value of the three results.

[Tensile strength test of hair] The major axis and the minor axis of the part where the tensile strength of the hair is measured (the central part of the hair of 30 cm in the example) are measured with a micrometer, and the cross-sectional area is calculated. Next, 0.5m before and after the point
At intervals of m, an adhesive tape (Scotch filament tape, manufactured by Sumitomo 3M Limited) is fixed to the hair. The part to which this tape was fixed was fixed to a clamp of a tensile tester (Rheometer manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.), and the strength at the time of cutting the hair was measured. From the cross-sectional area obtained earlier,
Tensile strength (kgf
/ Mm ² ). The tensile strength of 30 hairs per sample was measured, the average value was determined for each sample, and the results are shown as the average value.

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 Three kinds of first agents for permanent wave shown in Table 1 were prepared, and the first agent for permanent wave and the second agent for permanent wave described below were used. The hair bundle was subjected to a permanent wave treatment, and the wave ratio and tensile strength of the hair were examined.

In Example 1, the partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin produced in Reference Example 1 was used, and in Comparative Example 1, hydrolyzed keratin having a number average molecular weight of 1000 was used in place of the partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin. In No. 2, oxidized partial decomposition products of keratin, hydrolyzed peptides, and the like are not used at all.

The amounts of each component in Table 1 are based on parts by weight. When the amount is not a solid content, the solid content is indicated in parentheses after the component name. The same applies to the following examples and comparative examples.

[0045]

[Table 1]

In contrast to the first agent, the second agent is common to both Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and has the following composition. However, the amounts are by weight.

Second agent for permanent wave Sodium bromate 7.0 Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (20EO) 0.5 Disodium edetate 0.1 Lanolin, polyoxyethylene lanolin, 5.0 cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, liquid paraffin Mixture [EMACOL SLA (trade name), manufactured by Yamaei Chemical Co., Ltd.] 100 sterilized ion-exchanged water

Using the first permanent wave agent of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the hair bundle was treated by the method described in the section of the permanent wave processing method, and the wave ratio was determined. Was suspended at room temperature for one week, and the wave ratio after loading was also determined. Further, 30 hairs were extracted from each hair bundle, and the tensile strength of the hair was examined. The results are shown in Table 2 as average values.

[0049]

[Table 2]

As shown in Table 2, the hair treated with the first permanent wave agent of Example 1 had a wavy amount of 20% or more compared to the hair treated with the first permanent wave agent of Comparative Examples 1-2. The hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Example 1 maintains a wave ratio of 10% or more even after one week of loading, and the partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin blended in Example 1 is high. It was revealed that the wave rate was raised and that the wave effect was maintained.

Regarding the tensile strength per cross-sectional area of the hair, when treated with the first agent for permanent wave of Example 1 in which oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin was blended, the permanent agent of Comparative Example 1 with hydrolyzed keratin was treated. Tensile strength is increased by about 5% as compared with the case of treatment with the first agent for waving, and about 10% as compared with the case of treatment with the first agent for permanent wave of Comparative Example 3 containing no hydrolyzed peptides. It has been shown that the partially decomposed product of oxidized sorbents sorbs to the hair, prevents damage to the hair during the permanent wave treatment, and increases the tensile strength.

Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5 Four kinds of first agents for permanent wave having the compositions shown in Tables 3 and 4 were prepared, and the first agent for permanent wave and those used in Example 1 were prepared. A hair bundle composed of damaged hair was subjected to a permanent wave treatment using the same second agent for permanent wave as described above, and the wave ratio of the hair was examined. Further, the wave reduction ratio (shampoo resistance) by shampoo washing was examined.

In Example 2, the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin produced in Reference Example 2 was used, and in Comparative Example 3, the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin was used instead of the sodium salt of the number-average molecular weight of 1,000. Using keratin,
In Comparative Example 4, hydrolyzed collagen having a number average molecular weight of 1,000 was used, and in Comparative Example 5, salts of oxidized partially decomposed products of keratin, hydrolyzed peptides, and the like were not used at all.

[0054]

[Table 3]

[0055]

[Table 4]

Prior to the permanent wave treatment of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5, the hair washed by the method described in the section of the method for permanent wave treatment of the hair was bleached by the following method in order to make the degree of damage uniform. Processed.
That is, the hair was immersed in a 6% hydrogen peroxide solution heated to 40 ° C. for 30 minutes (bath ratio: 1:10), rinsed with running water for 3 minutes, immersed in a pH 3 phosphate buffer solution for 30 minutes, and thereafter It was immersed in ion-exchanged water for 30 minutes, washed, air-dried, and used for the test. A total of 12 hair bundles each consisting of 15 hairs subjected to the bleaching treatment were prepared for each of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 to 5.

These tresses were used in Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3 to
Using the first agent for permanent wave of No. 5, the treatment was carried out by the method described in the section of the permanent wave treatment method, and the wave ratio was measured. After the measurement of the wave ratio, each bundle was attached with a weight of 3 g, suspended at room temperature for one week, the wave ratio after the load was measured, and each bundle was subjected to a shampoo resistance test.

The shampoo resistance test was performed as follows.
That is, the hair bundle subjected to the permanent wave treatment is 40
Immersed in a 2% aqueous solution of sodium polyoxyethylene (3) lauryl ether sulfate heated to 3 ° C. for 3 minutes, and then strongly squeezed with the finger from the root of the hair bundle toward the tip of the hair bundle, again using the same 2% polyoxyethylene (3 ) Immerse in sodium lauryl ether sulfate aqueous solution. After repeating the immersion and fingering steps 10 times, rinse in running tap water for 3 minutes, remove excess water with a towel, immerse in 25 ° C. ion-exchanged water for 5 minutes, and rinse. After removing excess water with a towel, the length of the hair bundle was measured. These results are shown in Table 5 as average values.

[0059]

[Table 5]

As is clear from the results shown in Table 5, the treatment with the first agent for permanent wave of Example 2 was more effective than the treatment with the first agent for permanent wave of Comparative Examples 3 to 5. Immediately after permanent wave processing,
The wave ratio after one week load and after the shampoo resistance test was high, and the first wave for permanent wave of Example 2 was used.
It has been revealed that the sodium salt of the partially decomposed oxidized product of keratin contained in the agent increases the wave ratio in the permanent wave treatment, and that the wave has durability and shampoo resistance. In particular, with regard to the wave ratio after the shampoo resistance test, the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Example 2 was the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Comparative Example 5 containing no hydrolyzed peptides or the like. It is apparent that the sodium salt of the partial hydrolyzate of keratin contained in the first agent for permanent wave of Example 2 well remains on the hair even by shampoo washing, and has an effect of maintaining the wave. Met.

Example 3 and Comparative Examples 6 to 7 Three types of permanent wave first having the compositions shown in Table 6
A hair preparation is prepared, and the hair bundle is subjected to a permanent wave treatment using each of the first permanent wave agents and the same second permanent wave agent as used in Example 1, so that the gloss, moisture, and suppleness of the hair are obtained. The hardness was evaluated, and the tensile strength of the hair was measured.

In Example 3, the triethanolamine salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin produced in Reference Example 3 was used. In Comparative Example 6, the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin was used instead of the sodium salt of oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin. In Comparative Example 7, salts of oxidized partial decomposition products of keratin and hydrolyzed peptides were not used at all.

[0063]

[Table 6]

Using the first permanent wave agent of Example 3 and Comparative Examples 6 and 7, the hair bundle was treated by the method described in the section of the permanent wave treatment method to reduce the gloss, moisture, and suppleness of the hair. Ten female panelists were evaluated. The evaluation criteria were as follows: the best one was [2 points], the next best one [1 point], and the bad one [0 point].
Shown as the average value of 0 people. Further, 30 hairs were extracted from each hair bundle after the sensory evaluation and subjected to measurement of tensile strength. The results are shown in Table 7 as average values.

[0065]

[Table 7]

As is clear from the results shown in Table 7, the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Example 3 was compared with the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Comparative Examples 6 and 7. The evaluation value is high in any of the evaluation objects of gloss, moisture, and suppleness of the hair after the treatment, and the triethanolamine salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin blended in Example 3 well remains on the hair, and It has been found to have an effect of imparting luster, moisture, and flexibility.

Further, with respect to the tensile strength per cross-sectional area of the hair, when treated with the first agent for permanent wave of Example 3 in which the triethanolamine salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin was blended, the hydrolyzed collagen was reduced. About 4% more than when treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Comparative Example 6 and about 16% as compared with the case where treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Comparative Example 7 containing no hydrolyzed peptides. It has been shown that the strength is increasing and that the oxidized partially decomposed products of keratin sorb to the hair to prevent damage to the hair during permanent waving and increase the tensile strength.

Example 4 and Comparative Examples 8 to 9 Three types of permanent wave first compositions having the compositions shown in Table 8
A hair preparation is prepared, and the hair bundle is subjected to a permanent wave treatment using each of the first permanent wave agents and the same second permanent wave agent as used in Example 1, so that the gloss, moisture, and suppleness of the hair are obtained. The hardness was evaluated, and the tensile strength of the hair was measured.

In Example 4, the sodium salt of the partially decomposed oxidized keratin prepared in Reference Example 2 was used. In Comparative Example 8, the sodium salt of the partially decomposed oxidized keratin was used instead of the hydrolysis having a number average molecular weight of 1,000. Using keratin,
In Comparative Example 9, salts of oxidized partial decomposition products of keratin, hydrolyzed peptides, and the like were not used at all.

[0070]

[Table 8]

Using the first permanent wave agent of Example 4 and Comparative Examples 8 to 9, the hair bundle was treated by the method described in the section of the permanent wave treatment method, and the hair was lustered, moistened, and supple. Ten female panelists were evaluated according to the same evaluation criteria as in Example 3. Further, 30 hairs were extracted from each hair bundle after the sensory evaluation and subjected to measurement of tensile strength. The results are shown in Table 9 as average values.

[0072]

[Table 9]

As is evident from the results shown in Table 9, the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Example 4 was compared with the hair treated with the first agent for permanent waving of Comparative Examples 8 to 9. The gloss value, moisture and suppleness of the treated hair are high in any of the evaluation targets, and the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin blended in Example 4 well remains on the hair. It has been clarified to have an effect of moisturizing and giving flexibility.

In general, cysteine perm causes less damage to the hair than permanent wave treatment using thioglycolic acid as a reducing agent.
Although the difference between the example and the comparative example should not be so large, the hair treated with the first agent for permanent wave of Example 4 is still the first agent for permanent wave of Comparative Examples 8-9. The tensile strength is higher than that of the treated hair, and the sodium salt of the oxidized partially decomposed product of keratin formulated in Example 4 sorbs well to the hair to prevent damage to the hair during the permanent wave treatment, and to increase the tensile strength. It was revealed to increase.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Sueko Oumi 1-2-14 Fukuichi-cho, Higashi-Osaka-shi, Osaka F-term (reference) 4C083 AA122 AB082 AB312 AB332 AC022 AC072 AC122 AC182 AC352 AC532 AC542 AC582 AC692 AC772 AC782 AD432 AD441 AD442 AD512 CC34 DD31 EE06 EE25 4J002 AD031 CL021 DG046 EV066 EV086 EV096 GB00

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A first agent for permanent wave containing a reducing agent as a main agent, wherein the first agent has the following general formula (I): [Wherein, R represents an amino acid side chain of a keratin-derived peptide, m is 2 to 20, n is 20 to 200, and M is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonia, a lower alkanolamine or A lower alkylamine (wherein m and n only indicate the number of amino acids, not the order of amino acid sequences)], or a partially decomposed product of oxidized keratin or a salt thereof. The first agent for permanent wave. 2. The amount of the partially decomposed oxidized product of keratin represented by the general formula (I) or a salt thereof is 0.1 to 10% by weight.
The first agent for permanent wave according to claim 1, wherein