JP2000199149A - Cloth with splashed pattern and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To readily obtain cloth with splashed pattern having appearance and touch feeling, or the like, comparable to that of Oshima cloth (pongee produced in Oshima Island) with splashed pattern. SOLUTION: A woven fabric obtained by arranging mudding yarn 1 and chemical dyeing yarn dyed in same color as the mudding yarn 1 by using a chemical dye in lattice-like state having one to three units and weaving these yarns is prepared and at least a part of chemical dyed yarn of the woven fabric is subjected to discharge printing and the discharge printed part finishes up as cloth with splashed pattern.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a Kasuri ground manufactured by a discharge printing method and a method of manufacturing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Oshima Tsumugi is a finely woven Kasuri ground made with the use of Kasuri yarn of mud dyed. However, it is an experienced person to finish the woven fabric by combining the Kasuri patterns of each process one by one. However, it is very time-consuming, and at present, few people finish it with good quality.

Various attempts have been made to produce a material similar to Oshima Tsumugi. However, it is difficult to obtain a fine Kasuri ground unique to Oshima Tsumugi by other methods. However, even if only the yarn dyed with a chemical dye was used, it was difficult to obtain the appearance and feeling unique to Oshima Tsumugi.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a high quality Kasuri ground having the same appearance and texture as Oshima Tsumugi.
It is an object to provide easily.

[0005]

According to the present invention, the above object is achieved by using a combination of a mud-dyed yarn dyed with a dye and a dyed yarn dyed in the same color as the mud-dyed yarn using a chemical dye. did.

That is, the Kasuri ground of the present invention is composed of a woven fabric in which mud-dyed yarn and chemical dyed yarn are arranged and woven in a unit of 1 to 3 lattices. It is discharge-printed, and the discharge-printed portion is finished in a Kasuri shape. It is preferable that the number of the mud-dyed yarns is equal to or more than the number of the chemically dyed yarns.

Both the mud-dyed yarn and the synthetic dyed yarn are preferably made of silk yarn, like Oshima Tsumugi. As the chemical dye, any of dyes used for dyeing silk yarn, such as acid dyes and direct dyes, can be used. However, it is preferable to use a direct dye from the viewpoint that a part of the dyed yarn is discharged.

The mud-dyed yarn is obtained by dyeing a silk yarn with a decoction of the bark of a wheel plum containing a small amount of tannin and a brown pigment, immersing it in a mud containing a large amount of iron, aluminum, calcium, silicic acid, and the like. By repeating the method of fixing
It is dyed dark brown to black, and is a strong dyed material that is difficult to discharge.

Therefore, the dyed yarn of the discharge-printed portion may be dyed to a color other than the color of the non-discharge-printed portion (brown to black) by colored discharge, in which case the dye mixed into the discharge paste is an acid dye. It is preferred to use non-extractable dyes.

Further, the discharge-printed portion is present only on one side of the woven fabric, and the other surface is left as brown to black on the entire surface, or the discharge-printed portion is present in a different shape on both the front and back surfaces. It can be finished in Kasuri.

[0011] The product of the present invention uses a mud-dyed yarn and a chemically dyed yarn in the form of a lattice in the process and is woven into a brown-black woven fabric as a whole. It can be manufactured by a method of printing in a pattern, discharging the chemical dye that has been dyed on the printed portion, washing and removing the discharge paste, and finishing the printed portion in a Kasuri shape.

In this method, there is no need to form a Kasuri pattern by combining yarns that have been previously dyed in a Kasuri pattern at a glance at the time of weaving. A fine Kasuri pattern can be easily formed simply by arranging the dyeing yarn, mechanically weaving the woven fabric, and then applying the discharge paste with a normal printing machine.

The printing of the discharge paste may be carried out by any method. However, in order to produce a discharge effect on one side only and to give a different color to the front and back, a roll printing machine having a shallow groove is used. Is preferred. In this case, in particular, the depth of the groove is 10/1.
It is preferable to use an engraving roll of 100 mm or less, 10/100 mm to 7/100 mm.

[0014]

Next, an example of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. In this example, a silk dyed yarn 1 dyed black by repeating mud dyeing four times and a dyed dyed yarn 2 dyed black with a dye solution containing the following three dyes are used. Was obtained. Dyes a) Direct Fast Black RW 6% b) Diazole Red BS 0.35% c) Direct Supra Brown KGLM 0.7%

The woven fabric of A is composed of two mud dyed yarns and one compound dyed yarn as warp yarns.
Books are alternately arranged, and one weft dyed yarn and two chemical dyed yarns are woven in a plain weave structure. The woven fabric of B has two mud dyed yarns and two chemical dyed yarns for both the warp and the weft. , One mud dyed yarn and one compound dyed yarn are alternately arranged in this order and woven in a plain weave structure.

In this example, the mud dyed yarn 1 and the chemically dyed yarn 2
The thickness and the number of weaving yarns are as follows. 1) Mud-dyed yarn {Silk yarn is increased about 1.4-1.5 times by mud-dying.} Warp: Twisted in 21 Twist 350 times / 1m Weft: 6 in 21 Twisted 150 times / 1m 2 ) Chemical dyeing yarn Warp: Twenty-six in 27 twists 300 times / 1m Weft: Twenty-six in 27 twists 120 times / 1m 3) Number of warps (18 calculation) 1440 4) Number of wefts inserted (1 span) 98-100

On one side of the woven fabric A, a discharge paste containing super light (manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.) as a discharge agent was printed in the shape of an arrow in a roll printing machine. As the roll, an engraving roll having a very shallow groove having a thickness of 4 inches and a groove depth of 10/100 mm to 7/100 mm was used. After discharging paste printing, drying,
In the steamed, washed, and arranged product, only the dyed yarn of the portion where the discharge printing paste was printed on the black silk fabric was discharged white, and a very fine Kasuri pattern was formed in an arrow pattern. The back surface remained black.

Next, on one side of the woven fabric B, the above-described discharge paste containing the non-extractable green acid dye added to the above-mentioned discharge paste is roll-printed in a striped form, dried, steamed and washed, and the product is only dyed dyed yarn 2. It became a very elegant Kasuri ground with a Kasuri pattern dyed in green stripes. Also, on the back side, a yellow colored discharge paste is printed in a fan-shaped pattern, dried, steamed and washed, and arranged on a black background, the front surface is represented by fine green stripes, and the back surface is a yellow fan-shaped pattern. A very delicious Kasuri ground with a fine Kasuri pattern was obtained.

[0019]

The Kasuri ground of the present invention can be manufactured mechanically, and can express a very fine Kasuri pattern with high accuracy.
Further, since the mud-dyed yarn is used and the compound dyed yarn has the same color as the mud-dyed yarn, the product of the present invention has a quality comparable to that of Oshima Tsumugi.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 shows the structure of two examples of a woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein (I) shows the use of thread and (II) shows the structure of the surface.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Mud dyed yarn 2 Chemical dyed yarn

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a mud-dyed yarn 1 and a dyed yarn 2 dyed in the same color as the mud-dyed yarn 1 using a chemical dye,
Mud-dyed yarns 1 and chemical dyed yarns 2 are woven by being arranged in a lattice form of 1 to 3 units, and at least a part of the dyed yarns 2 of the woven fabric is discharged, and the discharged portion 3 Kasuri ground characterized by a finished shape. 2. The Kasuri ground according to claim 1, wherein both the mud dyed yarn 1 and the chemical dyed yarn 2 are made of silk yarn, and the chemical dye is a direct dye. 3. The Kasuri fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyed yarn 2 in the discharge-printed portion is dyed in a different color from the portion to be discharged by color discharge. 4. The Kasuri fabric according to claim 1, wherein the discharge printing portion is present only on one surface of the woven fabric, and the other surface is black on the entire surface. 5. The discharge printing portion according to claim 1, wherein the fabric has different shapes on both sides.
Kasuri ground of any one of ~ 3. 6. A woven fabric of the same color as mud dyeing, using a mud dyed yarn 1 and a chemically dyed yarn 2 dyed in the same color as the mud dyed yarn 1 using a chemical dye. And at least one surface thereof is printed with a discharge paste for the chemical dyeing yarn 2 in a pattern form, the above-described chemical dye that has been dyed on the printed portion is discharged, and the discharge discharge paste is washed and removed. A method for producing a Kasuri ground, wherein the seal is finished in a Kasuri pattern. 7. The printing of the discharge paste described above, wherein the groove has a depth of 10 /
The method according to claim 6, wherein the method is carried out by a roll printing machine using a roll of 100 mm or less.