JP2000199149A - Cloth with splashed pattern and its production - Google Patents
Cloth with splashed pattern and its productionInfo
- Publication number
- JP2000199149A JP2000199149A JP11002134A JP213499A JP2000199149A JP 2000199149 A JP2000199149 A JP 2000199149A JP 11002134 A JP11002134 A JP 11002134A JP 213499 A JP213499 A JP 213499A JP 2000199149 A JP2000199149 A JP 2000199149A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- dyed
- yarn
- discharge
- kasuri
- mud
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【0001】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、抜染法を利用して製造
される絣地とその製造方法に関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a Kasuri ground manufactured by a discharge printing method and a method of manufacturing the same.
【0002】[0002]
【従来の技術】大島紬は、泥染の絣糸を使用して、細か
い絣地に織り上げたものであるが、経緯の絣模様を一本
一本合わせて、織物を仕上げることは、熟練ある者であ
っても非常に時間のかかるものであり、また、現在で
は、それを品質良く仕上げる者が少なくなってきてい
る。2. Description of the Related Art Oshima Tsumugi is a finely woven Kasuri ground made with the use of Kasuri yarn of mud dyed. However, it is an experienced person to finish the woven fabric by combining the Kasuri patterns of each process one by one. However, it is very time-consuming, and at present, few people finish it with good quality.
【0003】そこで、大島紬に似たものを製造しようと
する試みが種々なされているが、大島紬特有の細かい絣
地を他の方法で得ることは困難であり、また、泥染の糸
を使用せずに、化学染料で染色した糸のみを使用して
も、大島紬特有の外観及び風合を得ることは困難であっ
た。Various attempts have been made to produce a material similar to Oshima Tsumugi. However, it is difficult to obtain a fine Kasuri ground unique to Oshima Tsumugi by other methods. However, even if only the yarn dyed with a chemical dye was used, it was difficult to obtain the appearance and feeling unique to Oshima Tsumugi.
【0004】[0004]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、かかる大島
紬と同様の外観及び風合等を有する絣地を、品質よく、
容易に提供することを課題とする。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a high quality Kasuri ground having the same appearance and texture as Oshima Tsumugi.
It is an object to provide easily.
【0005】[0005]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明では、泥染した泥
染糸と、化学染料を用いて該泥染糸と同色に染色した化
染糸を組み合わせて使用することにより、上記課題を解
決した。According to the present invention, the above object is achieved by using a combination of a mud-dyed yarn dyed with a dye and a dyed yarn dyed in the same color as the mud-dyed yarn using a chemical dye. did.
【0006】すなわち、本発明の絣地は、泥染糸と化染
糸を1〜3本単位の格子状に配置して製織した織物から
なるもので、織物の少なくとも一部の化染糸が抜染さ
れ、該抜染部分が絣状に仕上がっているものである。な
お、泥染糸は化染糸と同等又は同等以上の本数使用する
のが好ましい。That is, the Kasuri ground of the present invention is composed of a woven fabric in which mud-dyed yarn and chemical dyed yarn are arranged and woven in a unit of 1 to 3 lattices. It is discharge-printed, and the discharge-printed portion is finished in a Kasuri shape. It is preferable that the number of the mud-dyed yarns is equal to or more than the number of the chemically dyed yarns.
【0007】泥染糸と化染糸はいずれも、大島紬と同
様、絹糸からなるのが好ましく、化学染料としては酸性
染料、直接染料等絹糸を染色するのに使用される染料が
いずれも使用できるが、化染糸を一部抜染するという点
から、直接染料の使用が好ましい。Both the mud-dyed yarn and the synthetic dyed yarn are preferably made of silk yarn, like Oshima Tsumugi. As the chemical dye, any of dyes used for dyeing silk yarn, such as acid dyes and direct dyes, can be used. However, it is preferable to use a direct dye from the viewpoint that a part of the dyed yarn is discharged.
【0008】なお、泥染糸は、少量のタンニンと褐色色
素を含む車輪梅の樹皮の煎汁で絹糸を染色し、鉄分、ア
ルミニウム、カルシウム、珪酸等を多く含む泥に浸漬さ
せて、この染色を定着させるという方法の繰り返しで、
褐色〜黒色の濃色に染色されるものであり、抜染し難い
堅牢な染色物となっている。The mud-dyed yarn is obtained by dyeing a silk yarn with a decoction of the bark of a wheel plum containing a small amount of tannin and a brown pigment, immersing it in a mud containing a large amount of iron, aluminum, calcium, silicic acid, and the like. By repeating the method of fixing
It is dyed dark brown to black, and is a strong dyed material that is difficult to discharge.
【0009】従って、抜染部分の化染糸は、着色抜染に
より非抜染部分の色(褐色〜黒色)以外の色に染色され
てもよく、この場合抜染糊に混入される染料は、酸性染
料で不抜染料を使用するのが好ましい。Therefore, the dyed yarn of the discharge-printed portion may be dyed to a color other than the color of the non-discharge-printed portion (brown to black) by colored discharge, in which case the dye mixed into the discharge paste is an acid dye. It is preferred to use non-extractable dyes.
【0010】更に、抜染部分を織物の片面にのみ存在さ
せ、他面は全面に褐色〜黒色のまま残したり、表裏両面
に、異なる形状で、抜染部分を存在させるなどして、表
裏異なる表情の絣地に仕上げることもできる。Further, the discharge-printed portion is present only on one side of the woven fabric, and the other surface is left as brown to black on the entire surface, or the discharge-printed portion is present in a different shape on both the front and back surfaces. It can be finished in Kasuri.
【0011】かかる本発明の製品は、泥染糸と化染糸を
経緯に格子状に使用し、全体に褐色〜黒色の織物に製織
し、その少なくとも片面に、上記化染糸に対する抜染糊
を模様状に印捺し、該印捺部に染着されていた上記化学
染料を抜染し、上記抜染糊を洗浄除去し、上記印捺部を
絣状に仕上げるという方法で製造可能である。[0011] The product of the present invention uses a mud-dyed yarn and a chemically dyed yarn in the form of a lattice in the process and is woven into a brown-black woven fabric as a whole. It can be manufactured by a method of printing in a pattern, discharging the chemical dye that has been dyed on the printed portion, washing and removing the discharge paste, and finishing the printed portion in a Kasuri shape.
【0012】この方法では、予め絣状に染め分けた糸
を、製織時に一目づつ人為的に合わせて絣模様を形成す
る必要がなく、単に、経糸及び緯糸に所望の間隔で、泥
染糸と化染糸を配置し、織物を機械的に製織し、その後
に通常の捺染機で抜染糊を適用するだけで、容易に、細
かい絣模様を形成できるのである。In this method, there is no need to form a Kasuri pattern by combining yarns that have been previously dyed in a Kasuri pattern at a glance at the time of weaving. A fine Kasuri pattern can be easily formed simply by arranging the dyeing yarn, mechanically weaving the woven fabric, and then applying the discharge paste with a normal printing machine.
【0013】抜染糊の印捺は、どのような方法で実施さ
れてもよいが、片面にのみ、抜染効果を生じさせ、表裏
異色に仕上げるためには、溝の浅いロール捺染機を使用
するのが好ましい。この場合、特に溝の深さが10/1
00mm以下、10/100mm〜7/100mmの彫刻ロー
ルを使用するのが好ましい。The printing of the discharge paste may be carried out by any method. However, in order to produce a discharge effect on one side only and to give a different color to the front and back, a roll printing machine having a shallow groove is used. Is preferred. In this case, in particular, the depth of the groove is 10/1.
It is preferable to use an engraving roll of 100 mm or less, 10/100 mm to 7/100 mm.
【0014】[0014]
【発明の実施の形態】次に、本発明の一例を、図面に従
って、説明する。この例では、絹糸を、泥染4回の繰り
返してで黒色に染色した泥染糸1と、下記の3種の染料
を含む染液で黒色に染色した化染糸2を使用し、図1の
如き組織の織物を得た。 染料 a)ダイレクト ファスト ブラック RW 6 % b)ダイアゾール レッド BS 0.35% c)ダイレクト スープラ ブラウン KGLM 0.7 %Next, an example of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. In this example, a silk dyed yarn 1 dyed black by repeating mud dyeing four times and a dyed dyed yarn 2 dyed black with a dye solution containing the following three dyes are used. Was obtained. Dyes a) Direct Fast Black RW 6% b) Diazole Red BS 0.35% c) Direct Supra Brown KGLM 0.7%
【0015】Aの織物は、経糸に泥染糸2本と化染糸1
本を交互に配置し、緯糸に泥染糸1本と化染糸2本を平
織組織で織り込んだものであり、Bの織物は、経糸及び
緯糸共に泥染糸2本、化染糸2本、泥染糸1本、化染糸
1本を、この順序で、交互に配置し、平織組織で織り込
んだものである。The woven fabric of A is composed of two mud dyed yarns and one compound dyed yarn as warp yarns.
Books are alternately arranged, and one weft dyed yarn and two chemical dyed yarns are woven in a plain weave structure. The woven fabric of B has two mud dyed yarns and two chemical dyed yarns for both the warp and the weft. , One mud dyed yarn and one compound dyed yarn are alternately arranged in this order and woven in a plain weave structure.
【0016】なお、この例における泥染糸1と化染糸2
の糸の太さ及び製織本数等は下記の通りである。 1) 泥染糸─泥染により絹糸は約1.4〜1.5倍に増量さ
れる─ 経糸: 21中6本撚 撚度350回/1m 緯糸: 21中6本撚 撚度150回/1m 2) 化染糸 経糸: 27中6本撚 撚度300回/1m 緯糸: 27中6本撚 撚度120回/1m 3) 経糸本数(18算) 1440本 4) 緯糸の打込数(1寸間)98〜100本In this example, the mud dyed yarn 1 and the chemically dyed yarn 2
The thickness and the number of weaving yarns are as follows. 1) Mud-dyed yarn {Silk yarn is increased about 1.4-1.5 times by mud-dying.} Warp: Twisted in 21 Twist 350 times / 1m Weft: 6 in 21 Twisted 150 times / 1m 2 ) Chemical dyeing yarn Warp: Twenty-six in 27 twists 300 times / 1m Weft: Twenty-six in 27 twists 120 times / 1m 3) Number of warps (18 calculation) 1440 4) Number of wefts inserted (1 span) 98-100
【0017】Aの織物の片面に抜染剤として三菱ガス化
学社製のスーパーライトを含む抜染糊を矢絣状に、ロー
ル捺染機で印捺した。ロールとしては、太さ4インチ
で、溝の深さが10/100mm〜7/100mmの非常に
溝の浅い彫刻ロールを使用した。抜染糊印捺後、乾燥、
蒸し、水洗、整理した製品は、黒色の絹織物に、抜染糊
を印捺した部分の化染糸のみが白く抜染され、矢絣状に
非常に細かい絣模様が形成された。なお、裏面は黒色の
まま残った。On one side of the woven fabric A, a discharge paste containing super light (manufactured by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co., Ltd.) as a discharge agent was printed in the shape of an arrow in a roll printing machine. As the roll, an engraving roll having a very shallow groove having a thickness of 4 inches and a groove depth of 10/100 mm to 7/100 mm was used. After discharging paste printing, drying,
In the steamed, washed, and arranged product, only the dyed yarn of the portion where the discharge printing paste was printed on the black silk fabric was discharged white, and a very fine Kasuri pattern was formed in an arrow pattern. The back surface remained black.
【0018】次にBの織物の片面に上記抜染糊に不抜性
のグリーンの酸性染料を添加したものを縞状にロール捺
染し、乾燥、蒸し水洗整理した製品は、化染糸2のみが
縞状にグリーン色に染色された絣模様を有する、非常に
優雅な絣地となった。また、裏面にも、黄色の着色抜染
糊を扇形の模様に印捺し、乾燥、蒸し水洗整理すること
により、黒地に表面はグリーン色の縞が細かい絣模様で
表され、裏面は黄色の扇形が細かい絣模様で表された非
常に妙味ある絣地を得ることができた。Next, on one side of the woven fabric B, the above-described discharge paste containing the non-extractable green acid dye added to the above-mentioned discharge paste is roll-printed in a striped form, dried, steamed and washed, and the product is only dyed dyed yarn 2. It became a very elegant Kasuri ground with a Kasuri pattern dyed in green stripes. Also, on the back side, a yellow colored discharge paste is printed in a fan-shaped pattern, dried, steamed and washed, and arranged on a black background, the front surface is represented by fine green stripes, and the back surface is a yellow fan-shaped pattern. A very delicious Kasuri ground with a fine Kasuri pattern was obtained.
【0019】[0019]
【発明の効果】本発明の絣地は、機械的に製造可能であ
り、非常に細かい絣模様を精度よく表すことができる。
また、泥染糸を使用し、化染糸も泥染糸と同色のものを
使用するため、本発明の製品は、大島紬と遜色のない品
質を有するものとなる。The Kasuri ground of the present invention can be manufactured mechanically, and can express a very fine Kasuri pattern with high accuracy.
Further, since the mud-dyed yarn is used and the compound dyed yarn has the same color as the mud-dyed yarn, the product of the present invention has a quality comparable to that of Oshima Tsumugi.
【図1】図1は、本発明の実施例における織物2例の組
織を示すものであり、(I)は糸使いを、(II) は表面
の組織を示す。FIG. 1 shows the structure of two examples of a woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, wherein (I) shows the use of thread and (II) shows the structure of the surface.
1 泥染糸 2 化染糸 1 Mud dyed yarn 2 Chemical dyed yarn
Claims (7)
該泥染糸1と同色に染色した化染糸2からなる織物で、
泥染糸1と化染糸2が1〜3本単位の格子状に配置され
て製織されており、かつ、前記織物の少なくとも一部の
化染糸2が抜染され、該抜染部分3が絣状に仕上がって
いることを特徴とする絣地。1. A woven fabric comprising a mud-dyed yarn 1 and a dyed yarn 2 dyed in the same color as the mud-dyed yarn 1 using a chemical dye,
Mud-dyed yarns 1 and chemical dyed yarns 2 are woven by being arranged in a lattice form of 1 to 3 units, and at least a part of the dyed yarns 2 of the woven fabric is discharged, and the discharged portion 3 Kasuri ground characterized by a finished shape.
ものであり、上記化学染料が直接染料であることを特徴
とする請求項1の絣地。2. The Kasuri ground according to claim 1, wherein both the mud dyed yarn 1 and the chemical dyed yarn 2 are made of silk yarn, and the chemical dye is a direct dye.
より、被抜染部分と異色に染色されていることを特徴と
する請求項1又は2の絣地。3. The Kasuri fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyed yarn 2 in the discharge-printed portion is dyed in a different color from the portion to be discharged by color discharge.
存在し、他面は全面に黒色であることを特徴とする請求
項1〜3いずれか1項の絣地。4. The Kasuri fabric according to claim 1, wherein the discharge printing portion is present only on one surface of the woven fabric, and the other surface is black on the entire surface.
で、上記抜染部分が存在することを特徴とする請求項1
〜3いずれか1項の絣地。5. The discharge printing portion according to claim 1, wherein the fabric has different shapes on both sides.
Kasuri ground of any one of ~ 3.
該泥染糸1と同色に染色した化染糸2を経緯に格子状に
使用し、全体に泥染と同色の織物を製織し、その少なく
とも片面に、上記化染糸2に対する抜染糊を模様状に印
捺し、該印捺部に染着されていた上記化学染料を抜染
し、上記抜染糊を洗浄除去し、上記印捺部を絣状に仕上
げることを特徴とする絣地の製造方法。6. A woven fabric of the same color as mud dyeing, using a mud dyed yarn 1 and a chemically dyed yarn 2 dyed in the same color as the mud dyed yarn 1 using a chemical dye. And at least one surface thereof is printed with a discharge paste for the chemical dyeing yarn 2 in a pattern form, the above-described chemical dye that has been dyed on the printed portion is discharged, and the discharge discharge paste is washed and removed. A method for producing a Kasuri ground, wherein the seal is finished in a Kasuri pattern.
100mm以下のロールを使用したロール捺染機で実施す
ることを特徴とする請求項6の方法。7. The printing of the discharge paste described above, wherein the groove has a depth of 10 /
The method according to claim 6, wherein the method is carried out by a roll printing machine using a roll of 100 mm or less.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP11002134A JP2000199149A (en) | 1999-01-07 | 1999-01-07 | Cloth with splashed pattern and its production |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP11002134A JP2000199149A (en) | 1999-01-07 | 1999-01-07 | Cloth with splashed pattern and its production |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JP2000199149A true JP2000199149A (en) | 2000-07-18 |
Family
ID=11520875
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP11002134A Pending JP2000199149A (en) | 1999-01-07 | 1999-01-07 | Cloth with splashed pattern and its production |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JP2000199149A (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN114753044A (en) * | 2022-04-18 | 2022-07-15 | 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 | Weaving process of shirt fabric with rich and noble wrinkle tissues |
-
1999
- 1999-01-07 JP JP11002134A patent/JP2000199149A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN114753044A (en) * | 2022-04-18 | 2022-07-15 | 际华三五四二纺织有限公司 | Weaving process of shirt fabric with rich and noble wrinkle tissues |
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