US1718409A - Decorated fabric and process of producing the same - Google Patents

Description

June 25,l 1929. R v BRETT 1,718,409

DECORATED FABRIC AND PROCESS OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Nov. 2:2i 1927 65 J6 5 l 9 J6 6 J l o lig M ATTORNEY` Patented June 25, 192,9.

' UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ROBERT V. BRETT, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

Application filed November 22, 1927. serial No. 235,071.

This invention relates to a decorated fabric and process of producing the same.

The invention primarily aims in the production of a decorative pile fabric, such as reversible cotton chenille Wash rugs, of eX- ceptional fastness to washing and light and preferably of the throw type, termed Rugetts suitable for informal rooms, bath-rooms, sunrooms, breakfast-rooms, bedrooms and halls, but it is to be understood that a. process of decorating yin accordance with this invention may be employed for decorating any character of fabric for which it is found applicable, and the invention has for its further object to provide, in a manner as hereinafter set forth, for enhancing the appearance of a fabric by providing the latter with a fixed design standing out in relief with respect to the remainingportion of that surface of the fabric acted upon and with the design in color or colors and of a shade or shades different from that of the surface of the fabric upon which the design is placed.

A further object of the invention resides in the decorating of an oriental chenille-piled rug or other pile fabric by simultaneously discharging a developed ground color by printing thereon a design formed from a vat dye color and further in treating that surface of the fabric upon which the design is applied to provide for the design to stand out in relief.

With the foregoing and other objects in view the invention consists of the novel steps hereinafter more specifically described to set forth an embodiment of the process, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications can be had with respect to the several steps of the process which fall within 40 the scope of the claims hereunto appended.

An example of a decorative pile fabric produced in accordance with this invention and the appearance of the fabric during certain steps of the process are illustrated by the 5 accompanying drawing and in which- Figure 1 is a top plan view of a decorative.

pile fabric in accordance with this invention. Figure 2 is a section on line 2-2 Figure l. Figure 3A is a top plan view of the fabric 5o provided with a developed ground color.

Figure 4 is a section on line 4-4 Figure 3. Figure 5 is a top plan view of the fabric "havin a portion of the pile compressed and provi ed with a vat dye color.

Figure 6 is a section on line 6 6 Figure 5. The application of a process, 111 accordance with this invention is set forth by way of example for decorating Rugetts.

Rugetts are woven on single looms, a simple straight process of chenille weaving, the special processed oriental chenille yarn, of natural undyed, unbleached', long staple cotton, being woventhrough and through our standard eight ply cotton warp threads, these warps being in count, nine and onehalf warps to the inch. I

The loom is thus threaded with the warp, and, leaving from two to three inches of the warp, (which later will become the fringe of the Rugett) we thread the shuttle with our standard eight ply weft threads, the shuttle then being shot back and forth through and through the warp threads, thereby weaving in these weft threads until from one-half, to one inch of webbing has been formed.

Then the oriental chenille piling replaces the weft threading, in the shuttle, which is in turn shot through and through (meaning over and under every. alternate warp thread) and beaten up closely to the preceding chenille yarn, by means of a comb beater, until the desired length of that particular rug is woven.

The weft threading then replaces the oriental chenille pilingy in the shuttle, and a webbing of one-half to one inch` width, (conforming to the width of the webbing at the opposite end of the Rugett) is woven. f

Then from ve to seven inches of just the warp threads are left (which later becomes the fringe on this end ofthe Rugett, and also the fringe on the first end onf the Rugett neXt following in process of weaving). y

Then from one-half to one inch of webbing is shot across as the start of the next Rugett, the width of this webbing, depending on the size of the Rugett, which may be 24 X 36, 24 X 48, 27 X 54, 30 X 60 or 36 X 72 in size measuring from tip of fringe to tip of fringe. Then the chenille piling is again shot across until the desired length of that Rugett, has been woven.V

Thus the weaving proceeds, until a continuous strip of Rugetts has been woven, twenty-one lineal yards in length regardless of the width of the Rugetts, at Which time, another strip is started.

After the strip of Rugetts has been formed,

it is treated in a manner as now set forth to decorate the same by a process 1n accordance Y with this invention.

In all of the following formulae, the percentages quoted, are based on the weight of the material or goods to be processed. And where reference is made to parts in the various formulae, it is invariably understood to mean, parts by weight.

As the twenty-one yard vstrip of Rugetts comes from the loom, the strip .is rolled on a steel'bar, which bar is placed on extension arms at the end of a boil out vat, and unrolled by means of a motorized winch operating immediately over the vat;

The boil out vat, is provided with open steam coils in the bottom for heating the solution, forming the boil out bath, which is composed 'of water (chemically softened) twenty live times in volume, the weight of the material to be boiled out, 3% of soda ash, and 5% of soluble oil, which may be sulphinated. castor oil, monopole oil, rlurkey red oil, or any other suitable boil out compound.

The solution is then brought to a boil, and the strip ot Rugetts, the ends of which are joined over the winch, are drawn through and through the liquor, by the action of the winch, for from one to one and one-halt hours. y

This boiling out process removes any foreign matter and any surplus amount of natural oil from the iibre, and prepares the libre for the best possible impregnation of the dye pigment, applied in the dye bath, to follow.

Alfter being boiled out, the strip of Rugetts (without being rinsed) is squeezed through (between) two soft rubber rollers, into a dye vat having open steam coils in the bottom and with the vat lined with an acid resisting material capable of being readily cleaned.

The dye vat has open steam coils in the hottomior heating, so that when running a light tint, after running a dark shade dyeing there will be no bleeding of the color of the latter, into the new dyeing, 'from the vat itself.

` rllhe strip is entered in a dye bath composed o water (chemically softened) 25 times in volume the weight of the material, 1/2% to 8% of developed dyestud pigment powdered, 10% to 20% common salt, and 2% to 5% soluble oil. j

` As in the boil out bath, any;l good soluble oil such as monopole oil, Turkey red oil, orsulphinated castor oil, may be used in the dye bath.

The material is entered in this dye-bath at 140 F., being drawn through the liquor by a motorized winch attached to and immedi ately above the vat. The liquor is then brought to the boil, and boiled for forty tive minutes, then allowed to cool Jfor titteen minutes. After the strip has boiled and cooled, as stated, it is squeezed between soft rubber rollers and subjected to a rinsing bath of cold water, after which it is passed between squeezing rolls, of soft rubber and entered into a vat containing a diazotizing bath, composed of water chemically softened 25 times in volume the weight ot' the material, 11k/2% to 3% nitrite of soda, and 3% to 5% sulfuric acid (66 Be., or 168 Tw) This diazotizing bath must be cooled and kept at 40 to 50 F., and the material drawn through the bath, by means of a motorized winch for fifteen minutes.

The str-ip is then thoroughly rinsed, and then squeezed between soft rubber rollers and entered into a vat containing a developing bath consisting of water chemically softened 25 times in volume the weight of the goods and 1% beta napthol orother suitable developer, previously dissolved with 1% caustic soda dissolved in-l to 2 gallons ot water.

rlhis developing bath must be cooled and kept at 40 to 50 F., and the goods drawn through the bath by the winch for fifteen minutes. rlhe goods are then thoroughly rinsed, squeezed out and dried.

The strip is then laid out full length on a padded printing table, stretched taut and the designslblock printed thereon with vat colors made up into what will be known as Dyett, a printing paste combined with a vat dye. The printing paste consists of the tollowing ingredients.

645 parts (by weight) British gum 6% or gum tragacanth (6%) 130 parts (by weight) potassium carbonate 45 parts glycerine (commercial) 180 parts suloXite C. (1 1) or hydrosulphite A. W. C. may be used here.

ylhe potassium carbonate is dissolved in I the gum and glycerine at 180 F. Cool and then add the sulfoxite C. or the hydrosulphite A. W. C. or when printing black, a black vat dye is combined with a paste consisting of 400 parts (by weight) British gum 6%, gum gragacanth 6% or gum senegal 17 5 paits by weight) water 190 parts by weight) potassium carbonate.

45 parts (by weight) glycerine (commercial) l 190 parts (by weight) sulfoXi-te C., or hydrosulphite A. WV. C. (dry).

Dissolve hpotassium carbonate in the gum, water, and glycerine at 180 F. Cool to 140 F. and dissolve the sulfoxite C. or hydrosulphite A. W. C. in the mixture.

The proportion of the paste with respect to the proportion of the vat dye can be as desired, and by way of example for a 5% Color Dyett-use 5% vat dye and 95% paste or for a 20% Color Dyett-use 20% vat dye and paste. v

In block printing the designs on the rugs the procedure is much the same as in the block piinting of ci'etonne or plushes, and other similar fabrics with the exception that more force is used when striking the block, which iinpregnates the Dy'ettfurtlier into the pile, and compresses and crushes the pile or knap of theprug to a considerable depth at that point upon which the design is applied. A separate block is used for each color applied. rl`he impression face of the block is formed of felt or any suitable absorbent material to readily take up the Dyett supplied thereto from a pad.

After printing, the strip is passed through a shearing machine, in` Which a rapidly revolving, spiral bladed knife is employed to shear off the knap or pile of the rug down to the same height of the knap or pile which has been compressed or crushed during the printing step.

After shearing, and carefully (not too sharply) drying, the strip is passed by means of a leader, through a hydrosulphite rapid ager. In'this ager the vat color is reduced and impregnated thoroughly in 'the pile of that portion of the strip to which the vat color has been applied and which pile has been crushed or compressed by the piocess of block printing. Also, the ground or developed color, in this particular portion of the pile, is at the same time of the impregnation of the vat color, discharged or bleached out, and fur-ther a slight fixing or development of the vat color is started.

The strip is then passed over and under superposed, spaced sets of rollers from a roller of an upper set to a roller of a lower set and vice versa, that is to say, going from the top to the bottom of the ager. The strip enters the ager through an air seal and comes out through another air seal, being in the ager from three toV six minutes. The ager is heated to 216 to 218 F., and is iilled with moist live steam being held at 15 to 171/2 pounds per square in. pressure, 14.7 pounds of this pressure being atmospheric.

Coming from the ager the strip is subjected from three to five minutes to an oxidizing bath of 1% solution of sodium perborate, in which a further tixin or development of the vat dye is obtains after which it is passed Without wringing into a soap and lusterizing bath, heated at 170o F. to 212 F. The bath is formed of 11% good grade soap, and 1A to 1/% lusterizing solution, such as saponified oil, or similar glycerine base solution and in which the completion of the fixing or development of the vat dye is obtained and the strip prepared to obtain al sheen or lustre from a subsequent polishing strip is minut es, brushed,

The crushed or compressed pile gradually starts to rise at the beginning of the ageing of the strip, and continues to do so as the strip is subjected to the oxidizing` soaping, luterizing, polishing and brushing steps until, at the end of the brushing step, it assumes its original height, whereby the de sign stands out in distinct relief as in embossed Work.

A cross stitch, or similar fancy colored thread stitch, is seived twice across each end of the rugs, -to keep them from unraveling, then the pile is brushed and iiuiled up and the rugs stored for shipping.

In the drawing 1 indicates the body of a pile fabric, such as a Rugett, provided with a developed ground color 2. The compressed or crushed portion of the pile on one surface and which provides the design colored with a vat dye' is indicated at 3, and 4 designates the design which stands out in relief. The rows of cross stitching are indicated at 5, 6.

lVliat I claim is:

1. A process of decorating a pile fabric consisting in providing it with a developed ground coloi', compressing a portion of the pile on one surface of the fabric to form a design and simultaneously applying a vat dye color to the portion of the pile being compressed, then shearing the remaining portion of the pile to the level of the coin pressed portion, and then discharging the developed ground color from the compressed portion of the pile and bringing the latter to the original height thereof prior to compression.

2. A process of decorating a pile fabric consisting in providing the fabric with a developed ground color, compressing a portion of the pile on one surface of the fabric and simultaneously With compressing impregnating the libre of said portion With a vat dye color of a color different from the ground color, then shearing off the remaining portion of the pile of said surface to the level of said compressed portion, discharging the ground color from said compressed portion and restoring the latter to its original height.

3. A process of decorating a pile fabric consisting in providing the fabric with a developed ground color, compressing a por tion of the pile on one surface of the fabric and simultaneously With compressing impregnating the libre of said portion with a vat dye color of aYV color different from the ground color, then shearing ofi1 the remaining portion of the pile of said surface to the level of said compressed portion, and then successively subjecting the fabrioto ageing, oxidizing, soaping and lusterizing baths to discharge the ground color from the compressed portion, to develop the vat color, to restore the compressed portion `to its original height and to .provide the fabric with a sheen effect when submitted to a subsequent .polishing action.

4C. A. process of decorating a/ pile fabric consisting in providing the fabric throughout with a ground color, compressing a portion of the pile on one surface of the fabric and simultaneously with compressing of said lpile portion impregnating the latter with a vat dye color of a color different from the ground color, reducing the remainingportion of said surface to the level of the compressed portion thereof, developing the vat color and discharging the ground color from said compressed portion, oxidizing and applying a lusterizing agent to the fabric, and restoring the said compressed portion to its original height during the developing, discharging, oxidizing and lusterizing steps.

5. A process of decorating a pile fabric consisting in applying, under compression,

a design in color to a portion of the pile of' one surface of the fabric thereby crushing such portion, then permanently reducing the height of the remaining'portion of the pile of said surface, and then restoring the crushed portion of the pile to its original height, to set forth the design formed thereby in relief.

6. A. process of decorating a pile fabric consist-ing in impregnating, under a crushing action, the fibres of a portion of the pile of one surface of the fabric with a vat dye to provide a design in color, then permanently reducing the height of the remaining portion of Jche pile of said surface, and then fixing the color applied to and restoring to its original height said crushed portion whereby the design formed thereby will be set forth in relief.

ln testimony whereof, I affix my signature hereto.

RBERT V. BRETT.

Images