JP2000008254A - Knit with peculiar knitted face - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a knit with crepe surface effect and refreshing feel such as dry touch and drape nature. SOLUTION: This knit is such one as to be produced by using thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament crimped yarns, and has such a texture that, the crimped yarns constructing loops have bundles 1, 2 each interlaced both in S- and Z-twist directions and also opened parts 3 with wavy crimps of matched false twist phases among parts interlaced both in S- and Z-twist directions, both the bundles 1, 2 and the opened parts 3 present repeatedly in the direction of yarn length, and a knit design per loop unit is such one that the loops on right side 5 and/or left side 6 are raised with the loop projection as apex 4.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a knitted fabric having a unique knitted surface with a refreshing sensation, which is excellent in satin surface effect and smooth "dry touch".

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, knitted fabrics having a texture of texture, satin surface effect, or refreshing feeling are generally knitted by a knitted structure of a knitted fabric or by a special yarn having a "dry touch". Has been proposed.

[0003] For example, the former is a knitted fabric in which ordinary straight yarn is knitted by combining a knit and a tack structure while using a sheet of jersey as a basic structure. This knitted fabric is a knitted fabric whose appearance is expressed as unevenness by a combination of knitting organization points. However, there is a defect that it becomes a geometric monotonous structure, and it is difficult to express a fine grain feeling, a sharp surface feeling, or a natural surface feeling.

On the other hand, the latter is a knitted fabric obtained by knitting a knit de-knit yarn or an untwisted linen yarn as a special yarn on the basis of a plain knitting structure such as an interlock or a sheet of fabric.
Although this knitted fabric has an extremely finished satin surface effect, it does not have a sufficient refreshing feeling such as a "dry touch" or a "sharp" feeling.

[0005] In addition, Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 49-41143 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-13811 propose a yarn in which a temporary strand is added, and Japanese Patent Publication No. 54-101946 discloses a two-filament yarn. It has been proposed to use interlaced false yarns for knitted fabrics. Further, post-processing has been proposed in which the surface of a knitted material is eluted with a special agent in a dyeing finishing process to create a pattern, a sense of smoothness, and the like. However, none of them can be satisfied with a refreshing feeling such as “dry touch” and “shari”.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a refreshing knitted fabric excellent in satin surface effect and smooth "dry touch".

[0007]

The refreshing knitted fabric of the present invention comprises:
In order to solve the above problems, the following configuration is provided.

That is, the present invention relates to a knitted fabric using a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament sagged yarn, wherein the sagged yarn constituting a loop of the knitted fabric has a bunched portion entangled in the S twist direction and the Z twist direction, And, between the confounding in which the S twisting direction and the Z twisting direction are interlaced, there is a spread opening portion of a wavy crease in which the twist phases of the kneaded yarn are aligned, and the bundle portion and the spread portion have a yarn length. The knitted shape is a knitted fabric characterized by being repeatedly present in the vertical direction and having the knitted shape of one unit of the loop having a convex portion of the loop as an apex and a right and / or left loop having a swell.

[0009]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS A knitted fabric according to the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of the knitted form of the knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of a knitted fabric according to the prior art.

In FIG. 1, the loop constituting the knitted fabric is
The entangled converging portions 1 and 2 and the opening portion 3 of a wavy crinkle in which the twist phases of the tentacles are aligned are provided.

Further, in the shape of one loop, based on the vertex 4 corresponding to the convex part of the loop, the right half 5 of the loop is
It shows a climax compared to the left half 6. In addition, when the direction of the load is Z, the left half 6 is more prominent than the right half 5.

The converging section 1 is a entangled section in which S twists or Z twists are alternately inserted in the yarn length direction of the sagged crimped yarn. This is the opening where the twist is formed.

In FIG. 2, the loops constituting the knitted fabric have a convergence portion, a wavy crimped portion in which the twist phase of the twist is uniform, and a convex portion of the loop in the unit of one loop. There is no loop swell.

FIGS. 3 (a) and 3 (c) are schematic views schematically showing the cross-sectional shapes of the crimped yarn forming the loop of the knitted fabric of the present invention.

(A) is a dented yarn using a Y-shaped (b) high-profile cross section yarn, and (c) is a dendritic yarn using a hollow cross section yarn (d). . In each case, a highly deformed flat cross section having a cross section deformation rate of 2 times or more is characteristic.

According to the present invention, the yarn used for the loop constituting the knitted fabric of the present invention is a single-filament thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and may be a filament yarn such as polyester or polyamide. And
Features such as drawability of undrawn yarn (UY), partially drawn yarn (POY), and drawn yarn (DT), denier, number of single fiber filaments, shrinkage, cross-sectional shape, thick and thin, gloss and dyeability Any filament yarn having the same can be used.

Further, by providing a difference in shrinkage between the single yarns, the texture such as firmness and waist is improved while the thinner yarn is wound around the thicker yarn, and the heat treatment is provided by providing a difference in dyeing. Features with a toned appearance can be added. In particular, by using a combination of the cross-sectional shape and the gloss and the thick and thin filament yarn, characteristics such as a feeling of refreshing feeling and a satin surface effect can be further added.

The loop constituting the knitted fabric is composed of a converging portion subjected to a confounding process and a spreading portion of a wavy crease in which the twist phases of the knitting are uniform.

The convergence portion is apparently a so-called entangled portion in which actual twists of S and Z are concentrated, and the presence of this portion expresses the satin surface effect of the knitted fabric and a "smooth" texture. In general, the more or stronger the focusing area, the greater these surface effects become,
The result is a luxurious and high-grade product with an excellent texture. Conversely, when the focusing portion is rough and the focusing property is weak,
The surface effect is moderate, and the product is poor in texture and appearance.

The wavy crimped portion in which the twist phases of the tentative twist are uniform causes a migration failure phenomenon in the tentative twisting, and the single fiber filament yarns are integrally tentatively worked. It is made by shaping Kanen. The twist has a wavy crease, so that the product feels smooth and "smooth".

The sharper the wavy form, the greater the effect of the texture is obtained. Conversely, the less the wavy form, the less the effect of the texture. As described above, the loop characteristics of the knitted fabric are such that the number and strength of the converging portions in the loop, the sharpness of the wavy crease of the spread portion in the loop largely controls the texture of the satin finish surface effect and the refreshing feeling. You do it.

The shape of one unit of the loop of the knitted fabric is a knit structure in which the right half or the left half is raised based on the vertex of the loop. When the knitted fabric is knitted, apparently no swelling due to twisting of the loop is observed, but during relaxation or during dyeing, the latent loop torque newly appears and the knitted fabric is viewed from the front. ,
One side of the loop is slightly raised due to twisting or "staggering". This is because the right half of the loop swells when the residual torque direction of the sagged yarn is the S direction, and conversely, the left half of the loop swells when the residual torque direction is the Z direction. Since the knitted fabric is formed of the temporary twisted yarn, the swelling of the loop differs depending on the direction of the twist.

Although this phenomenon is not recognized because the migration is sufficiently performed in the normal twisted yarn, the strong entanglement treatment is applied to the original yarn as in the present invention to prevent the migration during the temporary twisting. It utilizes a special phenomenon of torque development that occurs when blocking. Since the change in the swelling gives the monotonous satin surface effect a change in natural feeling, a knitted fabric having a high-grade feeling and a high-quality refreshing feeling which has not been recognized conventionally can be obtained.

Further, when the S-torque yarn and the Z-torque yarn are used every one course, every two courses, or a combination thereof, a complicated swelling phenomenon occurs, and a surface effect closer to a natural feeling is obtained. be able to.

Further, according to the present invention, the cross-sectional deformation rate S (times) (= r2 / r1) of the sagged yarn constituting the loop of the knitted fabric is represented by S
≧ 2, the number n of converging portions entangled in the S or Z direction is 75 to 200 / m, and the number of twists is
It is preferably 50 to 500 t / m in the direction of addition. (However, r1 = the radius of the inscribed circle, r2 = the radius of the circumscribed circle).

In the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of the above-mentioned ken crimped yarn may be any shape, but a cross-sectional shape having a large deformation rate gives a very favorable effect on the feeling of refreshing feeling. In particular, a flat type or a sharp angled cross section is optimal,
It is not preferable that the shape becomes polygonal or round.

As the flat type, there is a type in which the original yarn is already flat, and a type in which the original yarn is a hollow fiber or a semi-hollow fiber type such as a C-shaped or U-shaped cross section. In the case of, there is almost no hollow part, the collapse is natural,
Extremely favorable texture and surface changes can be exhibited.
It should be noted that if the deformed cross-section yarn is provided with a glossy condensed yarn, a higher quality can be provided. Further, among the materials used, the polyester filament yarn has a greater refreshing feeling than the polyamide filament yarn.

The sectional deformation rate can be obtained by the following method. That is, the maximum inscribed radius of the cross-sectional shape is r
If the maximum circumscribing radius is r2, the sectional deformation rate s (times) = r2 / r1. s is 2
If it is smaller, the effect of the present invention becomes smaller. By the way, equilateral triangle is s = 2, square is s = 1.41, regular hexagon is s = 2/3 ^1/2.

The number of focusing portions is 75 to 200 per meter,
The cross-sectional shape of the crimped yarn is irregular, and the number of twists is 50 to 500.
It is preferably t / m. The more the number of the bundles of the creped yarn, the greater the satin surface effect. However, if the number is too large, the pitch becomes finer, so that the texture and the satin surface effect of the "smooth" feeling become less conspicuous. On the other hand, if the amount is too small, the satin surface effect is reduced, but not only the number of the convergence portions but also the strength of the convergence portions is determined by the number.

Although it depends on the thickness of the knitted yarn used and the structure / gauge of the knitted fabric, if the thickness is 30 to 200 denier, which is usually used for clothing, the number of bundled portions is 75 to 1 / m.
200 is a preferred range.

The purpose of adding the number of twists is to restore the form of the corrugated creped yarn and to reduce the residual torque. It is preferable that the number of twists is more than 50 to 500 t / m in the direction of addition, and it is not preferable to add in the direction opposite to the direction of addition since the effect of the present invention is drastically reduced.

The thickness is preferably around 100 t / m for a thick filament yarn of 150 denier or more, and up to 500 t / m for a thin filament yarn of 50 denier or less.

As another characteristic, it is preferable that the degree of the expansion / contraction restoration ratio is as low as possible from the viewpoint of drape property and gloss of the texture.
It is not preferable because it gives a feeling or "sponge" feeling. Specifically, a range of 5 to 20% is suitable.

In addition to the above-described expansion / contraction restoration rate, if the residual torque is larger than the provisional one, the knitted fabric may be slanted or a "sponge" feeling or a "sponge" feeling may not be obtained. 120
It is also effective to apply a low-temperature reheat setting of up to 200 ° C., or to apply additional sweetener in the direction of heating from the temporary direction for the purpose of restoring the temporary twisting and reducing the torque. .

The number of residual torque twists is set to be less than 20 times by measuring a number of rotations of the wrench with a small load placed on the louver, taking a test length of 1 m and setting it to 50 cm. Is preferred.

With regard to the knitted fabric of the present invention, the knitted fabric is formed by circular knitting or vertical knitting, and is formed by using 100% of the above-described saponified yarn or by cross-knitting with another material. Needless to say, 100% usage is a preferable usage to emphasize the texture. The composite yarn obtained by combining the above-mentioned ken crimped yarn and other materials is not preferable because it also has a poor satin surface effect and a feeling of refreshing feeling.

Taking circular knitted fabrics as an example, organizations that can make the best use of the characteristics of the material to be used include plain interlocks, sheeting, cord lanes with a change in the surface, and telephones.

The gauge of the knitted fabric may vary from 50 denier to 15 denier for ordinary clothing, depending on the denier of the ken silk.
If it is in the range of 0 denier, it is 42G from double jersey
A range of 22G is suitable.

In the dyeing and finishing process after knitting, if the knitted fabric is rubbed in the relaxing process or the dyeing process, the bundled portion of the knitted fabric loop is opened, and the corrugated uneven shrinkage of the opened portion is easily broken. Therefore, the shrinkage of the knitted fabric is preferably as low as possible, and is more preferably 8% or less if specifically indicated by the shrinkage of the saponified yarn.

In order to impart a soft or drape-like texture, an elution treatment, that is, an alkali weight-reducing treatment may be performed. However, when the weight-reduction rate is 20% or more, the texture “tarak” and the surface effect are reduced. Less than 15%
Or it is better not to do it.

The dyeing process can be combined with post-processing, such as ordinary plain dyeing, or post-processing such as printing or elution, in which a surface change is imparted by post-processing, to provide a more luxurious knitted fabric.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is a multi-value-added knitted fabric in which the special cross-sectional shape of the base yarn, the wavy crimped shape, the loop shape, and the surface post-processing are combined.

The use of the knitted fabric of the present invention is mainly for knitted outerwear for women and men for spring and summer. It is suitable for interior use, and also for materials such as car interiors, bottles, and musical instrument packaging.

To explain the method for producing the knitted fabric of the present invention, when performing a preliminary twisting process using a multifilament single filament of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber, the yarn is subjected to an air entanglement treatment and then subjected to a high temporary twist. The work is temporarily performed under conditions of several times and high temperatures, and then reheat set and wound. Then, additional torque may be applied for the purpose of reducing the torque or restoring the twisted shape of the heat.

The characteristics of the manufacturing method are to increase the cross-sectional deformation of the crimped yarn, and to reduce the residual torque by provision of a reheat set or an additional liner, which can be achieved by combining these special conditions. it can.

Further, according to the present invention, the size of the yarn unevenness U (%) of the silk yarn constituting the loop of the knitted fabric is 5%.
It is preferably about 15%.

When a yarn having the original yarn of thick and thin is used, the number of entanglements in the thick portion is larger than that in the thin portion, and the wavy shrink shape becomes sharp and dyes a dark color.

If U (%) is less than 5, these effects are reduced, and if U (%) is greater than 15, yarn workability and knitting properties are undesirably reduced.

The size of the yarn unevenness The worst case unevenness U (%) is measured as follows.

Equipment EVENESSE TESTER TYPE B Maker Keiki Kogyo Co., Ltd. Measurement conditions Yarn speed 25 m / min Range of Scale ± 100% Normal Test

[0053]

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples and comparative examples. Regarding the method of measuring the texture and appearance, the one with the larger “smooth” feeling due to the feel of the knitted fabric,
(○) and the smaller one was evaluated as (×) and evaluated by n number 5.
In addition, the larger one of the satin surface effects was evaluated as (○), and the smaller one was evaluated as (x), and the evaluation was performed by n number 5.

Example 1 Air pressure of 5 kg / cm ² and overfeed rate of + 3% were applied to a 75 denier 36 filament Y-shaped polyester multifilament yarn having a highly irregular cross section.
3900 T / m, over feed rate 0%, set temperature 237 ° C., processing speed 100 m
The workpiece was processed by a spindle type temporary machine at a rate of / min, followed by re-heat treatment at an overfeed rate of 12% and a set temperature of 180 ° C, and winding. 150 t / m of sweet twist was added to the wound temporary twisted yarn in the S direction of the temporary twisting direction. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of confounds (bundled portion): 142 pieces / m Cross-sectional deformation rate: 6.2 times (flat triangular cross section) Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 13% Number of torque twists: 7 times in S direction / m It is knitted into 48 interlocks, 2/2 code lanes each with a circular knitting machine, and 130
C. and dyed at 170.degree. C. to finish set. Each of the obtained knits had the following characteristics.

"Smooth" feeling: (O) Pear-skin surface effect: (O) Loop form: Half swelling on the right side In addition, a knitted fabric with silver-like elegant gloss and "dry" feeling was obtained.

Example 2 A 75-denier 36-filament polyester multifilament yarn having a hollow hollow section with a hollow ratio of 21% was subjected to a strong entanglement treatment at an air pressure of 5 kg / cm ² and an overfeed rate of + 3%. 3900
T / m, overfeed rate 0%, set temperature 240 ° C,
Spindle-type temporary processing was performed at a processing speed of 100 m / min, followed by re-heat treatment at an overfeed rate of 10% and a set temperature of 195 ° C, and winding. 150 t / m in the S direction in the direction of the temporary twist
Sweet liquor was added. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of confounds (bundled portion): 121 pieces / m Sectional deformation rate: 4.5 times (flat shape with almost 0% hollowness) Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 10% Torque twist number: 15 times / m in S direction The knitted yarn is knitted into 48 interlocks with a 28G circular knitting machine, dyed at a high temperature of 130 ° C., and cooled to 170 ° C.
Finished set. Each of the obtained knits had the following characteristics.

"Smooth" feeling: (O) Pear surface effect: (O) Loop form: Half swelling on right side [Example 3] Air is applied to a 75 denier 36 filament thick and thin polyester multifilament yarn as a thick and thin use. A confounding treatment was performed at a pressure of 5 kg / cm ² and an overfeed rate of + 3%.
0T / m, overfeed rate -1%, set temperature 230
The workpiece was processed by a spindle type temporary at a temperature of 100 ° C. and a processing speed of 100 m / min, and then reheat-treated at an overfeed rate of 12% and a set temperature of 175 ° C., and was wound. 150 tons in the S direction in the direction of the temporary twist
/ M sweet twist was added. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of confounds (bundled portion): 156 pieces / m Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 10% Number of torque twists: 12 times in the S direction / m U%: 8.5% The obtained ken crimped yarn is 48 with a 28G circular knitting machine. Mouth, interlocked, dyed at a high temperature of 125 ° C, and 165 ° C
Finished set. Each of the obtained knits had the following characteristics.

"Smooth" feeling: (O) Pear surface effect: (O) Loop form: Half rise on the right-hand side A knitted fabric excellent in dark and light colored ragged feeling, "dry" feeling and firmness and waist texture was obtained.

[Comparative Example 1] Regarding the change of the sectional shape,
A polyester multifilament yarn having a circular cross section of 5 denier and 36 filaments is subjected to an entanglement treatment at an air pressure of 5 kg / cm ² and an overfeed rate of + 3%.
T / m, overfeed rate 0%, set temperature 237 ° C,
Spindle-type temporary processing is performed at a processing speed of 100 m / min.
It was reheated at ℃ and wound up. Furthermore, a sweet twist of 150 t / m was added in the S direction, which is a temporary direction. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of confounds (converging portion): 104 pieces / m Sectional deformation rate: 1.8 (hexagonal shape) Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 15% Number of torque twists: 12 times in the S direction / m U%: 1.1% The knitted yarn is knitted into 48 interlocks with a 28G circular knitting machine, dyed at a high temperature of 130 ° C., and cooled to 170 ° C.
Finished set.

The resulting knit had the following properties.

“Smooth” feeling: (×) satin surface effect: (△) Loop form: half rise on the right side The knitted fabric with unsatisfactory texture and surface effect as a refreshing knitted fabric.

[Comparative Example 2] With respect to the change in the number of bundled portions, provisional twisting was performed using the same filament yarn as in Example 1 to obtain 70 crimped yarns having a weak bundle degree per 1 m. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of entanglements (bundled portion): 70 pieces / m Cross-sectional deformation rate: 2.5 (triangular shape) Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 14% Torque twist number: 10 times / m in S direction Knit into a 48-port interlock, dye at 130 ° C at high temperature, and
Finished set. The resulting knit had the following properties.

“Smooth” feeling: (△) Pear surface effect: (△) Loop form: Half-height swelling on right side The knitted fabric with unsatisfactory texture and surface effect as a refreshing knitted fabric.

[Comparative Example 3] Regarding the change of the expansion / contraction restoration rate,
Air pressure 2K using the same filament yarn as in Example 1.
g / cm ² , an overfeed rate of + 1%, and a tentative number of 3400 T / m, an overfeed rate of +2
%, A set temperature of 225 ° C., and a processing speed of 100 m / min. Further, a sweet twist of 250 t / m was added in the S direction, which is a temporary direction. A crimped yarn having the following characteristics was obtained. The resulting crimped yarn had the following properties.

Number of confounds (bundled portion): 100 pieces / m Cross-sectional deformation rate: 2.9 (triangular shape) Expansion / contraction restoration rate: 28% Torque twist number: 11 times / m in S direction Knit into a 48-port interlock, dye at 130 ° C at high temperature, and
Finished set. The resulting knit had the following properties.

“Smooth” feeling: (△) Pear surface effect: (×) Loop form: no swelling As a refreshing knitted fabric, the texture and surface effect were unsatisfactory, and the knitted fabric had a “bottling” feeling.

[0072]

According to the present invention, the loop of the knitted fabric has a partial converging portion by the entanglement treatment and an opening portion by the sharp wavy crimped form, and the single fiber filament yarn It is a flat high-profile section with a large cross-sectional deformation rate, a right or left half of the loop structure is formed based on the convex portion of the loop shape, and the surface structure of the knitted fabric has an uneven feeling. The texture is "smooth" and "dry" due to the "undulation"
It is possible to provide a knitted fabric having a unique knitted surface having a refreshing texture such as a feeling and drape.

Also, the loop has a partial converging portion of actual S and Z twists, and the opening portion has a corrugated sharp crimped shape. A knitted material having an effect can be provided.

The knitted fabric using the thick and thin yarn as the original yarn can provide a knitted fabric having not only a dark and light color uneven sensation but also an extremely strong “dry” feeling and a firm and stiff feel. .

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view schematically showing an example of loop formation of a knitted fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view schematically showing a conventional loop formation of a knitted fabric.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram schematically showing a cross-sectional shape of a base yarn and a sagged yarn forming a loop of the knitted fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Converged portion 2: Converged portion 3: Opened portion 4: Apex of loop convex part 5: Part where right half of loop is raised 6: Left half of loop 7: Part where uniform loop is formed

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A knitted fabric using a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament ken crimp, wherein the ken crimp constituting a loop of the knit has a bunched portion entangled in the S twist direction and the Z twist direction, And, between the confounding in which the S twisting direction and the Z twisting direction are interlaced, there is a spread opening portion of a wavy crease in which the twist phases of the kneaded yarn are aligned, and the bundle portion and the spread portion have a yarn length. The knitted fabric is characterized in that the knitted shape of one unit of the loop has a convex portion of the loop as an apex and the right and / or left loops have a swell. 2. The silk yarn constituting the loop of the knitted fabric,
The sectional deformation rate S (= r2 / r1) is S ≧ 2 (times),
The number n of the converging portions entangled in the S direction or the Z direction is 7
5 to 200 pieces / m, and 5
The knitted fabric according to claim 1, having a twist number of 0 to 500 t / m. (However, r1: radius of the largest inscribed circle, r2: radius of the largest circumscribed circle) 3. The silk yarn constituting the loop of the knitted fabric,
The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the Worster unevenness U (%) satisfies 5 to 15.