ITMI20002855A1 - COSMETIC USE OF CARNOSINE - Google Patents

Description

Description of the patent for an industrial invention having for

title:

"COSMETIC USE OF CARNOSINE"

The present invention relates to the use of carnosine in cosmetics, in particular to prevent and combat imperfections due to the action on proteins of toxic metabolites with carbonyl function produced during the glycation reaction.

Background of the invention

Skin aging is an irreversible process that is genetically programmed and accelerated by external elements, such as sunlight, radiation, pollution. The combined action of endogenous and exogenous factors causes the formation of reactive oxygen species, such as radicals and peroxides, which are considered to be more responsible for the degenerative process that leads to the aging of cells and extracellular components of the skin tissue.

The oxidation of biological substrates such as sugars and membrane lipids triggers a cascade of reactions, known collectively as glycation, which converge in the formation of highly toxic carbonyl compounds (aldehydes and ketones), which have been attributed a key role in the propagation and amplification of the aging process. In fact, these adducts show particular affinity and reactivity towards long half-life macromolecules such as structural proteins (collagen, elastin) and nucleic acids. The biological substrates affected by the deleterious action of carbonyl compounds undergo alterations with consequent loss of functionality. At the skin level, this phenomenon manifests itself with the appearance of cellular changes characteristic of aging [R. Holliday, G. A. McFarland. Biochemistry. 65 (7), 991-97, 2000].

The proteins of the extracellular matrix undergo alterations of the side chains that lead to disorganization, aggregation, fragmentation, cross-linking. The failure of the microstructure of the connective fibers compromises the mechanical properties of the skin; this translates, on a macroscopic level, into relaxation of the tissue and the formation of wrinkles, unsightly signs of aging skin.

Cosmetic science considers skin aging one of the areas of greatest interest. The result is a long list of molecules of heterogeneous origin studied for this purpose and proposed as being able to hinder the chemism of reactive oxygen species and related biochemical processes.

Carnosine (β-alanyl-L-histidine) is a physiological substance that was first isolated about a hundred years ago. It is found in concentrations up to 20 mM in the innervated tissues (muscles and brain) of vertebrates. Most of the literature on carnosine points to its role as an antioxidant. More recent studies, on the other hand, suggest an additional homeostatic functionality. [TO. Hipkiss, Int. J. Bioch. Cell Biol.

1998, 30: 863-868].

Although the physiological role of the molecule has not yet been fully clarified, it has been attributed numerous properties in various fields of application, including medical, nutritional and cosmetic, which would help to consider it a molecule with homeostatic and protective functions against the process of aging. In particular, the use of carnosine in the cosmetic field has been proposed in application as an antioxidant (JP 4187610), as an anti-radical agent (EP 571390), in the treatment of skin irritated by the effect of sunlight (W094 / 21245), for the treatment of cracked skin (JP 4235111), as a skin whitening agent (JP 2221213).

Detailed description of the invention

It has now been found that carnosine can be advantageously used in cosmetics to treat or prevent imperfections due to the action on the proteins of toxic metabolites with carbonyl function produced during the glycation reaction.

Carnosine has in fact been shown to be able to react with carbonyl compounds, resulting from the oxidation of sugars and membrane lipids, responsible for the irreversible alteration of proteins. The action of the dipeptide on these toxic adducts blocks their deleterious effect on physiologically determined target substrates, such as the protein macromolecules of the connective tissue, intervening on one of the causes of aging of the skin tissue and on the formation of wrinkles.

The invention therefore provides cosmetic treatment methods to reduce or prevent tissue damage caused by the action of toxic reactants, produced in the aging process, on the proteins of the matrix.

The efficacy of carnosine action can be demonstrated by the results of the experiments conducted in vitro on the carbonyl compounds most toxic to proteins, in this specific case the methylglyoxal, an endogenous dicarbonyl derivative, and the trans-2-exanal, an α aldehyde, β unsaturated.

The reaction between carnosine and a carbonyl compound is experimentally highlighted by the change in the UV spectrum of the reaction mixture: classically, an increase in absorbance around 280 nm is detected.

This result was obtained by incubating carnosine with methylglyoxal. 5 mM methylglyoxal was added to equimolar carnosine in 100 mM phosphate buffer at pH 7 for two hours. The absorbance of the reaction mixture, at the end of the incubation time, increases about four times compared to the initial value.

Further confirmation of the ability of carnosine to form adducts with carbonyl compounds was obtained by analyzing by gas chromatography the concentration of trans-2-exanal in the headspace of the vial containing the dipeptide. 5 mM carnosine was added to the aldehyde in equal concentration in 5 mM phosphate buffer at pH 7 and 0.12 M of KCl. 1 ml of the obtained solution was sealed in a vial and incubated at 40 ° C for five hours. At predetermined times, solution samples were taken and injected into the column for gas-chromatographic analysis. The concentration of free aldehyde in the headspace decreases linearly over the course of the experiment. Already after one hour of incubation, carnosine is able to reduce the concentration of trans-2-exanal by 44%.

Carnosine has therefore proved to be particularly active in counteracting the action of carbonyl compounds responsible for the visible effects of aging, thanks to its ability to "switch off" their reactivity.

The invention also relates to cosmetic formulations containing carnosine in a concentration between 0.01% and 10% by weight.

Carnosine can be used as an active ingredient in solutions, oil-in-water (O / A) or water-in-oil (A / O) emulsions, in gels with different viscosity grades and different consistencies, or as a solution or lotion.

The cosmetic compositions can include auxiliary excipients such as preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, defoamers, thickeners, surfactants, emulsifiers, humectants, fats, waxes, oils, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

The preparation of the different cosmetic forms can take place by simple physical mixture of the components at room temperature or, where possible, at high temperatures. In the case of emulsions, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are prepared separately and then mixed and emulsified, at room temperature or, where possible, at high temperatures

Example 1

Non-alcoholic moisturizing tonic for face

% by weight Water, preservatives

q.s. 100 Carnosine

10 Saccharide isomerate 2 Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

2 Gum- 1 biosaccharide

5 Water, glycerin, chamomile recutita

5 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26 0.4 buteth26

0.1 Perfume

Adjust the pH to 5.5 with citric acid

Example 2

Hydroalcoholic aftershave lotion

% by weight Water, preservatives

q.s. 100 Carnosine

1 Water, alcohol, hamammelis virginiana

45 Citric acid (a lactic)

0.25 Allantoin

0.25 Panthenol

1 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26 1 buteth26

1 Perfume

Example 3

Hydroalcoholic gel

% by weight

Water, preservatives to taste 100 Carnosine 48 Denatured alcohol 5 Carbomer 1 Aminoethyl propanol 0.4 EDTA Na2 0.1 Example 4

Emollient gel

% by weight

Water, preservatives to taste 100 I love since

10 Algae

5 Sodium carbomer 1 Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

2.5 Hydrogenated PEG-40, castor oil, PPG-26 0.4 buteth26

0.1 Perfume

Example 5

Eye contour gel

% by weight

Water, preservatives to taste 100 Carnosine. 2 Saccharide isomerate 2 Glyceryl polymethacrylate 40

Example 6

Anti-aging fluid gel

% by weight

Water, preservatives to taste 100 Carnosine 4 Polyacrylamide, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 1.25 Glycerin 3 Fragrance 0.25 Example 7

Hyperfluid solar gel emulsion

% by weight

Water q.s. 100 Carnosine 10 Acrylates / C] 0.30 crosspolymer alkyl acrylate 0.15 Methyl glucose dioleate 0.10 Cyclopentasiloxane 7.50 Dimethicone 1 Ottylmethoxycinamate 5 Aminomethylpropanol 0.12 Fragrance 0.38

Example 8

Moisturizing gel cream

% by weight

Water, preservatives to taste 100 Carnosine 2 Octyloctanoate 8 Acrylates / crosspolymer isodecanoate acrylate 0.20 Oxybenzone 0.50 Lecithin, ascorbyl palpitate, citric acid 0.05 Carbomer 0.30 Aminomethylpropanol 0.40 Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol 1 Perfume 040 Example 9

Body emulsion O / A

% by weight

Water q.s. Carnosine 2 Sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate 2.5 Cetereate-20 0.5 Stearic acid 5 Dimethicone 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 0.5 Octyloctanoate 3 Bisabolol 0.3 Sodium carbomer 0.5 Glycerin 5 Perfume 0.38

Example 10

Body emulsion O / A

% by weight

Water q.s. 100 Carnosine 2 Cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulphate 8 Dicapryl ether 2 Octyldodecanol 4 Glycolic acid 0.5 Malic acid 0.15 Tartaric acid 0.15 Citric acid 0.1 Lactic acid 0.3 Sodium lactate 1 Sodium pyruvate 0.3 Glycerin 3 Perfume q.s.

Example 11

Body milk O / A

% by weight

Water 71.25 Carnosine 5 Liquid paraffin 12 Isopropyl palmitate 5 Antioxidant q-b. Sodium carbomer 0.75 Citric acid (10%) 0.25 Laureth-4 phosphate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate 3 Fragrance 0.3

Example 12

A / O fluid emulsion

% by weight

Water q.s. 100 Carnosine 2 Polyglyceryl-2 dipohydroxystearate 2.5 Liquid paraffin, lanolin alcohol 2.5 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 5 C12-i5 alkyl benzoate 7.5 Polydecene 7.5 Magnesium sulphate 0.5 Fragrance 0.5 Example 13

A / O cream

% by weight

Water q.s. 100 Carnosine 2 PEG-30 dipolydroxystearate 2 Cyclopentasiloxane 11 Sorbeth-30 3 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 7 Magnesium sulphate 0.5 Fragrance 0.5

Example 14

Anhydrous lipid stick

% by weight

Carnosine 0.5 Beeswax 3-polyglyceril 35 Mangifera indica 10 Theobroma cocoa 10 OLUS 44 Aroma 0.5

Claims (4)

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic use of carnosine to prevent and combat imperfections due to the action on the proteins of toxic metabolites with carbonyl function produced during the glycation reaction. 2. A cosmetic treatment method of imperfections due to the action on proteins of toxic metabolites with carbonyl function produced during the glycation reaction which includes the topical application on the skin of an effective amount of carnosine. 3. Topical cosmetic compositions for the treatment of imperfections due to the action on the proteins of toxic metabolites with carbonyl function produced during the glycation reaction containing carnosine as an active ingredient mixed with any other active ingredients and / or excipients. 4. Compositions according to claim 3, in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, solutions, lotions, creams, gels.