IT202100023231A1 - Cosmetic method for hair with ozone - Google Patents

Description

TITLE: ?Cosmetic method for hair with ozone?

DESCRIPTION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The field of the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for ozone-based hair care.

STATE OF ART

Ozone therapy? a therapy or treatment based on ozone that ? known to produce a series of benefits capable of counteracting a vast range of pathologies (herniated disc, acne, phlebitis, fibromyalgia, infections, hemorrhoids, arthrosis, cellulitis, ulcers, burns, osteoporosis). This treatment significantly improves the body's defense systems against the action of free radicals, which are mainly responsible for cellular aging and tissue oxidation.

Ozone O3 ? a gas soluble in aqueous solution (~ 13 times more? than? O2 at 0-30? C) with a solubility? inversely proportional to temperature and pH. ? furthermore characterized by a high oxidative potential (redox potential of 2.07 V vs redox potential of the oxygen molecule O2 of 1.23 V), lower only than some substances, and clearly higher than that of chlorine (+1.36 V).

It forms naturally in the human body because it produced by white blood cells called neutrophils; in this way, within our body, it performs the delicate task of counteracting the action of bacteria and fungi and, in general, of all the abnormal elements present in the body.

In addition to the therapeutic use, can it be used? also use ozone in the cosmetic field, for example for hair care.

At the state of the art, ozone is used during technical hair treatments, such as colouring, bleaching or styling, plus hair styling. specifically during the laying period of the technical treatment or in its progression. This use usually leads to advantages in terms of color or crease duration, intensity? of hair coloring. In other words, ozone has an adjuvant or improving effect on the performance of the technical treatment performed on a user's hair.

In particular, several previous documents show that the use of ozone ? functional in terms of performance of the technical treatment, for example with the aim of accelerating the process of the technical treatment, to make it more? efficient or characterized by better results (for example, a greater bleaching effect or a more lively and intense hair color).

Examples of such applications are described in the following patent documents:

EP0103547 describes a device for the generation of steam and ozone - ozonated steam - in quantities controllable for the treatment of both scalp and hair; for hair treatment, a hair dryer (or bell) is employed, especially when applying dyes or perms. For example, the treatment with the steam/ozone mixture described in EP0103547 ? able to enhance the whitening process of hair keratin, and improve the hair dyeing and pigmentation processes. GB820463 concerns a method for improving hair dyeing, bleaching and/or styling processes. A steam and ozone generating apparatus is employed in combination with hair treatments. The invention described in GB820463 accelerates and improves the oxidation of the dyes used in hair dyeing; improves the action of lightening/whitening products; and ? useful in neutralizing perm lotions.

Problem of the prior art

How already? mentioned, the known ozone-based cosmetic methods are intended to enhance the technical treatment by virtue of of the oxidizing power of O3.

L? Ozone however?, just in virtue? of its properties? chemicals, ? harmful to the hair if used improperly: pu? cause structural and functional damage to the hair pi? or less reversible, more? specifically damage to the protein components of the hair.

? therefore felt the need to develop new techniques for using ozone during hair treatments, minimizing the harmful effects of the molecule and at the same time exploiting its properties? beneficial and functional.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The Applicant has identified a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair which uses ozone. In particular, the method comprising the following steps:

a) carry out a technical treatment on the hair, comprising at least the sub-phases of

a1) apply on the hair one or more? functional compositions for technical treatment,

a2) leave on the hair l? One or more? functional compositions for technical treatment,

a3) wash your hair to remove the? One or more? functional compositions for the technical treatment of the hair,

b) apply ozone to the hair for a period of time between 3 and 20 minutes and at a dosage between 180 mg/h and 400 mg/h,

in which

the phase of application of the ozone (b) ? carried out on damp hair, at the end of the technical treatment phase (a).

Advantages of the invention

The cosmetic method of the invention does not intend to accentuate or improve the result or performance of the technical treatment applied to the hair, but rather? focuses on the partial or total regeneration of the primordial structure of the technical pre-treatment hair, going cio? to act at the level of disulfide bridges, preferably cysteine disulfide bridges of the hair. There? ? obtained through the use of ozone following technical parameters described in the set of claims and in the continuation of the description.

The present invention differs from common ozone-based cosmetic methods in that:

- plans to apply ozone on the hair at a precise dosage and in a specific period of time. Higher dosages or times of ozone application could compromise the constitution of the hair. For example, from the realization examples, sar? more it is evident that the use of O3 over a prolonged period of time produces structural damage, therefore also functional, to the hair;

- ? versatile since it can be used for hair care after various technical treatments; moreover, the versatility of use must also be understood from the point of view of the technical instrumentation available in beauty salons. In fact, the phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) can? take place through different types of professional tools such as, for example, a hairbrush, a hair comb, a hair dryer (with or without diffuser), a hair straightener, a shampoo, a hair cap, a hair helmet, a nebulizer.

- requires that the phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) take place when the hair is damp. Without being bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that, in the presence of humidity? or a certain percentage of water on the hair or near it, facilitates contact and adherence of the ozone with the hair proteins, increasing its repairing efficacy. According to the Applicant, ozone is, in fact, capable of favoring the closure of the hair cuticles, increasing water retention at the same level. There? allows you to increase the?humidity? of the hair and to make it more? elastic, obtaining good results in terms of hair hydration and tensile strength. In addition, the presence of water reduces the concentration of ozone in the air obtaining a less aggressive mixture but still capable of oxidizing the free sulfhydryl groups SH and restoring the S-S disulphide bonds of the hair proteins;

- it allows to achieve good results in terms of hair care since the phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) takes place at the end of the technical treatment, in other words following or after the finished technical treatment; without wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that the use of ozone at the end of the technical treatment allows restructuring and regeneration of the hair;

- allows for good results in terms of hydration, elasticity, tensile strength/breakage;

The cosmetic method of the invention allows to obtain an economic advantage compared to treatment with molecular oxygen (O2). Indeed, on the market, the price of oxygen concentrators? greater than that of ozone generators. The former require filters and compressors, for example zeolite filters which are notoriously very expensive; on the other hand, for the treatment with ozone, ? enough to have at least one ozone generator. Does the economic advantage reflect an advantage in terms of simplicity? and ease? of use of the aforementioned tool.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Figure 1a ? Analysis of the number of free sulfhydryl groups SH on the exposed surface of the hair for the control group of strands (?Control?), for the group of strands subjected to bleaching (?Dec?), for the group of strands subjected to bleaching and treatment with ozone O3 (?Dec O3?), for the group of strands subjected to discoloration and treatment with ozone O3 for 24 hours (?Dec O324h?) according to example 1;

Figure 1b ? Analysis of the number of free sulfhydryl groups SH on the exposed surface of the hair for the group of strands controlled (?Control?), for the group of strands subjected to perm (?Per?), for the group of strands subjected to perm and treatment with ozone O3 (?Per O3?), for the group of strands subjected to perm and treatment with ozone O3 for 24 hours (?Per O324h?) according to example 1;

Figure 2 ? Typical FTIR-ATR spectrum of a hair sample;

Figure 3 ? Results expressed in weight in grams measured at different measurement times of example 2 relating to control dyed strands;

Figure 4 ? Results expressed in weight in grams measured at different measurement times of example 2 relating to ozone-dyed strands;

Figure 5 ? Results with differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock of example 2 relating to control dyed locks;

Figure 6 ? Results with differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock of example 2 relating to ozone dyed locks;

Figure 7 ? Results expressed in weight in grams measured at different measurement times of example 2 relating to control bleached strands;

Figure 8 ? Results expressed in weight in grams measured at different times of measurement of example 2 relating to ozone bleached locks;

Figure 9 ? Results with differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock of example 2 relating to control bleached locks;

Figure 10 ? Results with differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock of example 2 relating to ozone bleached locks;

Figure 11 ? Instrument for measuring the breaking load of example 3;

Figure 12 ? Example of graph obtained from the measurement carried out through the modality? example 3;

Figure 13 ? Sample test results 3 on bleached strands;

Figure 14 ? Example test results 3 on permed strands.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

How already? explained above, O3 ozone has a better oxidizing power than O<2> oxygen. Without wanting to be bound by any theory, the Applicant believes that, more? still that to a direct action of the ozone, the capacities? O3 oxidants are due to the release of atomic oxygen O, one of the species deriving from the decomposition of ozone. In particular, atomic oxygen O is obtained by decomposing ozone, a highly unstable molecule, according to the following reaction:

O3 h? ? O2 O

According to the Applicant, ozone favors the formation of disulfide bridges, preferably disulfide bridges of cysteines, between the keratin molecules, so as to restructure the hair and make it more? resistant, hydrated and luminous; moreover, it is believed that ozone improves the duration of technical treatments (bleach, perm, etc.).

For the purposes of the present invention, hair care means any process or treatment aimed at restoring or reconstructing, totally or partially, the natural structure of the hair or in any case that of which the hair was characterized before the technical treatment.

It should be noted that the ozone-based cosmetic method according to the invention is not? a trichological treatment, where by trichological treatment we mean a treatment aimed at curing a condition, preferably affecting the scalp. Examples of trichological treatment are the anti-fall trichological treatment (fine, damaged hair and/or with a tendency to fall out and break), the anti-dandruff treatment or the anti-seborrheic treatment.

By damp hair, for the purposes of the present invention, we mean both freshly washed and unwashed hair. been swabbed, squeezed or rubbed; both towel-dried, squeezed or rubbed hair after washing.

(a) Conducting a technical hair treatment

What? as previously said, the cosmetic method for hair care comprises the step of carrying out a technical treatment on the hair (a), in turn, comprising at least the sub-step of:

a1) apply on the hair one or more? functional compositions for the technical treatment

a2) leave on the hair l? One or more? functional compositions for the technical treatment

a3) wash your hair to remove the? One or more? functional compositions for the technical treatment of the hair.

According to the cosmetic method of the invention, the technical treatment is chosen from: hair reconstruction, hair conditioning, coloring, bleaching, permanent and combinations of the previous ones.

By hair reconstruction we mean a technical treatment aimed at modifying or restoring the natural structure of the hair. It is specified that the natural shape or structure of the hair? determined by the arrangement of the peptide chains that form the hair, preferably links between cysteines, and by the cross-links which keep them together. These bonds are mainly peptide, disulphide, salt and hydrogen bridges.

By hair conditioning we mean a technical treatment with the main purpose of detangling the hair, preferably after washing with shampoo. The conditioning products contain surfactants which create a film which, enveloping the hair, make it slippery and more? easy to comb.

By coloring we mean a technical treatment with which the natural color of the hair is modified. The coloring comprises dyes of natural or synthetic origin, of the type, for example, selected from temporary colouring; semi-permanent coloring; permanent coloring.

By discoloration we mean any technical treatment that allows you to lighten/decolorize the hair by a few tones, using a chemical process (destructive oxidation of melanin). The bleached hair usually undergoes an aggressive treatment that modifies its structure, making it more? thin and dry.

Among the bleaching treatments, treatments to obtain m?ches or shatush are also preferably included.

Streaks are a technical bleaching treatment that lightens the hair. ? suitable for those with light hair, natural or not. It provides for the discoloration, along the entire length, of rather regular thin strands.

By shatush we mean a technical treatment which provides for a light backcombing of the locks, then carrying out the discoloration of the escaped tufts: more? intense at the tips, just mentioned in the vicinity? of the roots. Also, unlike streaks, shatush can't? be resumed, that is, to be able to do it a second time, ? necessary to cut the bleached lengths.

According to a preferred form of the cosmetic method according to the invention, the technical treatment is chosen between discoloration and permanent.

For ?functional compositions for technical treatment? means compositions/formulations/products based on natural/semi-natural/synthetic chemical substances used or applied to the hair for any type of technical treatment. For example, for the technical hair reconstruction treatment, functional compositions can be shampoos, nourishing masks, regenerating and conditioning lotions/mousses/sprays for dry, brittle and damaged hair; for the hair conditioning technical treatment, functional compositions are balms, masks, mineral salts; for the technical coloring treatment, functional compositions are permanent dyes, gradual or metallic dyes, temporary dyes, semi-permanent dyes, vegetable dyes; for the technical bleaching treatment, functional compositions are bleaching/lightening formulations, preferably based on oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, and/or based on ammonia; for the technical treatment of permanent, functional compositions are formulations with capacity? remodeling/waving or styling of the hair structure and/or neutralizing formulations (to avoid excessive structural damage to the hair).

Note that the hair washing phase to remove the one or more hairs. functional compositions from the hair provides for the removal or definitive elimination of all traces of said functional composition/s for the technical treatment. Preferably, said washing step is carried out with water.

According to a preferred embodiment, the step of carrying out a technical treatment on the hair (a) can comprise further sub-phases (an) which can be before, after or intermediate to the phases (a1)-(a3) of application, application and rinsing of the composition functional to the technical treatment. These additional sub-phases (an) are selected from the group consisting of:

- apply curlers or hairpins or other tools suitable for modeling or styling the hair to the hair,

- apply a further composition functional to the technical treatment to the hair, preferably without rinsing, i.e. without washing with water to remove/remove the composition itself from the hair;

- apply a further functional composition to the technical treatment to the hair, preferably with rinsing, i.e. washing with water to remove/remove the composition itself from the hair,

- Rub or wring out or pat the hair dry, possibly with the help of a towel

and combinations of the above.

The technical treatment? the discoloration

According to a preferred embodiment, the technical treatment ? the discoloration and the phase of conducting a technical treatment on the hair (a) includes the sub-phases of:

a1?) apply on the hair a first functional composition for the technical treatment, preferably a bleaching/lightening composition,

a2?) leave the first functional composition for the technical treatment on the hair, preferably for between 40 and 50 minutes,

a3?) wash the hair to remove the first composition functional to the technical treatment from the hair.

According to an optional embodiment, the bleaching comprises other sub-steps subsequent to the step of washing the hair:

a4?) applying on the hair a second composition functional to the technical treatment, said composition preferably being a toning composition,

a5?) leave the second functional composition for the technical treatment on the hair, preferably for between 15 and 30 minutes,

a6?) wash the hair with water to remove the second composition functional to the technical treatment from the hair.

By toning composition we mean a coloring chemical composition; unlike the permanent dyes that act more? in depth in the structure of the hair, a toning composition provides that the colored pigment remains only on the surface of the hair. The toning compositions differ according to the composition and intensity? of the coloring. Often toning compositions can dry out the hair due to the presence of alcohol in them.

Still preferably, following the hair washing sub-step and before the ozone application step (b), the bleaching comprises a further sub-step of dabbing, wringing or rubbing the damp hair, possibly with the help of a towel.

At the end of the bleaching treatment, and preferably after the hair washing or towel-drying, wringing or rubbing the damp hair sub-step, the cosmetic method of the invention comprises the step of applying ozone to damp hair (b).

The technical treatment? the permanent

According to an alternative embodiment, the technical treatment ? the perm, and the phase of conducting a technical treatment on the hair (a) includes the sub-phases of:

a0??) select one or more? strands of hair and wrap them on curlers,

a1??) applying to the wound hair a first functional composition for the technical treatment, said first functional composition being preferably a hair shape modeling product (or waving composition),

a2??) leave the first functional composition for the technical treatment on the hair, preferably for between 5 and 30 minutes,

a3??) wash the hair to remove the first composition functional to the technical treatment from the hair.

Still preferably, the technical treatment of the perm comprises the following further sub-steps:

a4??) applying to the hair a second functional composition for the technical treatment, said second functional composition being preferably a neutralizing composition,

a5??) leave the second functional composition for the technical treatment on the hair,

a6??) remove curlers or any other tool equivalent to them from the hair,

a7??) wash the hair to remove the second, optionally the third, composition functional to the technical treatment from the hair.

Still preferably, following the hair washing sub-step and before the ozone application step (b), the perm comprises a further step of dabbing, wringing or rubbing the damp hair.

At the end of the perm treatment, and preferably after the hair washing or toweling, wringing or rubbing the hair sub-phase, the cosmetic method of the invention comprises the step of applying ozone to damp hair (b).

(b) Step of applying ozone to hair

Preferably, the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) provides for the ozone to be in gaseous form, mixed with water or in the form of humidified ozone (ozonated water).

For the purposes of the present invention, once the ozone comes, with the expression ?applying ozone on the hair? (b) is meant preferably

- dispense gaseous ozone directly on the hair; alternately,

- apply a mixture of ozone and water to the hair; alternately

- apply ozone solubilized in water (humidified ozone or ozonated water) on the hair.

For example, ozone in gaseous form can preferably be generated from an ozone generating device. An ozone generator preferably comprises at least one fan and two plates, one of which is powered to generate electric discharges; between the plates passes oxygen conveyed by the fan.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oxygen conveyed between the two plates by the fan is the oxygen present in the atmosphere.

According to an alternative embodiment, the oxygen conveyed between the two plates is pure oxygen, or with a purity ? 98%, such as that contained in an O2 cylinder or generated by an O2 concentrator.

The phase of applying ozone on the hair (b) ? carried out for or in a period of time between 3 and 20 minutes, preferably between 3 and 15 minutes, preferably between 3 and 10 minutes, preferably between 5 and 10 minutes, even more? preferably between 6 and 10 minutes, preferably equal to 6 minutes or alternatively equal to 10 minutes.

The Applicant specifies that, as long as in the time parameters according to the ozone application phase (b) of the present invention, the restructuring efficacy of the ozone on the hair is obtained; longer times of use of ozone, on the other hand, risk damaging the hair, with destructuring effects comparable to those resulting from some technical treatments, such as bleaching or perms.

For the purposes of the present invention , the phase of application of the ozone (b) ? carried out on essentially damp hair. Wet hair means

- towel-dried hair, optionally rubbed or wrung out, using a cloth or towel, after washing, in order to remove excess water, thus avoiding the phenomenon of hair dripping when excessively wet; or

- wet hair, just after washing.

The other essential condition? that the ozone application phase (b) is carried out at the conclusion of the technical treatment conduction phase (a), i.e. after the last sub-phase constituting the technical treatment (a); according to a preferred embodiment, the ozone application step (b) is carried out on damp hair after abundant rinsing with water to remove all traces of the composition/s functional to the technical treatment.

The step of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably takes place by delivering ozone at a dosage of between 180 mg and 400 mg in one hour (h) (extremes included), preferably at a dosage of between 200 mg and 300 mg in one? hour (h) (extremes included), preferably equal to 200 mg in one hour.

Therefore, in a time period preferably between 3 and 20 minutes, the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) provides that the ozone is in a quantity preferably between 9 mg and 134 mg, preferably between 9 mg and 120 mg, preferably between 10 and 100 mg, preferably between 10 and 80 mg, preferably between 10 and about 67 mg, preferably between 10 and about 34 mg.

The phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably takes place using a hand piece chosen from the group consisting of: a hair brush, a hair comb, a hair dryer - preferably with or without a diffuser - a hair straightener, a shampoo head, a cap for hair, a hair helmet, a nebulizer.

The step of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably envisages an ozone delivery flow of between 1 and 5 L/min, more? preferably between 1 and 2 L/min.

The delivery pressure of the ozone in gaseous form? preferably atmospheric.

First mode? of ozone application

According to a preferred embodiment, the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably comprises the following sub-steps:

b1) prepare ozone in gaseous form;

b2) prepare water in liquid form;

b3) dispense ozone in gaseous form and, at the same time, spray the water in liquid form on the hair.

For the purposes of the present invention , water is nebulised preferably by means of a nebuliser, ie a device which transforms a liquid into an aerosol of very fine drops; the liquid, introduced by a nozzle, is dispersed by a diffuser.

The step of dispensing the ozone in gaseous form and, at the same time, spraying the water in liquid form on the hair (b3) preferably envisages that ozone is dispensed in gaseous form on the hair and that, at the same time, the liquid water is sprayed on the damp hair.

Preferably, the phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) according to this method? preferably takes place by delivering ozone in gaseous form at a dosage between 180 mg and 400 mg/h (extremes included), preferably between 180 and 350 mg/h, preferably between 180 and 250 mg/h, preferably between 180 and 200 mg/h, preferably equal to 200 mg/h.

Second mode? of ozone application

In a second alternative embodiment to the previous one, the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably comprises the following sub-steps:

b1?) preparing ozone in gaseous form;

b2?) dispense ozone in gaseous form on damp hair.

It should be noted that, according to this second embodiment and unlike the first modality, of application of? ozone, not ? the use of nebulised liquid water is foreseen. Is instead exploited? Humidity? already present on wet hair.

Preferably, the step of applying or delivering ozone to the hair (b) in this manner? preferably takes place by delivering ozone in gaseous form at a dosage of between 180 mg and 400 mg in one hour (h) (extremes included), preferably between 250 and 400 mg/h, preferably between 350 and 400 mg/h, preferably equal to 400 mg/h.

Third mode? of ozone application

A third embodiment of the invention provides that the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) preferably comprises the following sub-steps:

b1??) prepare ozone in gaseous form

b2??) prepare water in liquid form,

b3??) solubilize ozone in gaseous form in water to obtain humidified ozone (or ozonated water), and

b4??) apply humidified ozone on damp hair.

Preferably, the step of solubilizing the ozone in gaseous form in water to obtain humidified ozone (or ozonated water) (b3??) provides for the use of a bubbler device, known to those skilled in the art, for solubilising the ozone in gaseous form in water. In other words, the gaseous ozone is humidified, using a bubbler, before being applied to the hair.

A further modality? to carry out the solubilization phase of ozone in gaseous form in water to obtain humidified ozone (or ozone humidification phase) (b3??) preferably envisages that the ozone in gaseous form is mixed or solubilized directly in water, preferably water from a sink or shampoo basin. In this way, the gaseous ozone ? ?absorbed? (soluble) in water before being applied to the hair.

The passage of the ozone flow in water preferably allows the gas to be dissolved, so that the micro-droplets of humidified ozone (or ozonated water) adhere more to the water. effectively to the hair, improving its effectiveness. For the purposes of the present invention, preferably the bubbler has a volume ? 350ml and ? 500 ml, preferably equal to 500 ml.

For the purposes of the present invention, to ?apply humidified ozone to damp hair? (b4??) means applying humidified or water-soluble ozone (humidified ozone or ozonated water) on damp hair.

Preferably, the step of applying the humidified ozone (or ozonated water) on the hair (b4??) takes place by nebulization (?vaporization?) of the humidified ozone, ie by means of a nebulizer or vaporizer; according to another method, the phase of application of the humidified ozone on the hair (b4??) preferably takes place by pouring (or outflowing) at least a part of the humidified ozone (or ozonated water) aforesaid onto the hair already? humid of a user.

According to an alternative embodiment, the method can provide for the use of a catalyst which helps to improve the effectiveness of the treatment, through the recovery of chemical species produced during the application of the ozone and which, if not recovered, would be lost in the environment.

Preferably, the phase of applying ozone to the hair (b) according to the third method? preferably takes place by applying ozone at a dosage of between 180 mg and 400 mg in one hour (h) (extremes included), preferably between 200 and 400 mg/h, preferably between 200 and 350 mg/h, preferably between 200 and 250 mg/h, preferably equal to 200 mg/h.

According to the third method? of application of? ozone, considering the solubility? of ozone in gaseous form in water at a temperature preferably between 20 and 30°C, the title (or concentration) of ozone in humidified ozone (or ozonated water) ? preferably between 350 mg and 600 mg, preferably between 400 mg and 570 mg per liter of humidified ozone (or ozonated water).

Preferably, following the step of applying the ozone to the hair (b), respecting the times for the purposes of the invention, the hair can be dried, preferably using a common hair dryer.

EXAMPLES

In the following, the Applicant reports embodiments of the invention, for merely illustrative and non-limiting purposes.

It is premised that with the expression ?Dec? means the bleaching treatment, while, with the expression ?Per? means the treatment of permanent.

Example 1 - Effect of treatment with ozone according to the cosmetic method of the invention on bleached and permed hair

The purpose of the study? chemically characterize the effect of treatment with ozonized air on the hair after bleaching treatments with aqueous hydrogen peroxide 30 volumes (9% by weight) or after perms.

I study ? was carried out on standard bleached hair samples of 8 g each treated as described below:

Table 1 - Treatments carried out on the samples

In the case of treatment with ozone according to the method of the invention, ozonated air produced by an ozonizer with a flow rate of 400 mg of ozone per hour is used. It is believed, without being bound by any theory, that ozonized air is more? effective if it is bubbled in water before applying to the hair why? the presence of humidity? favors the contact of the ozone with the hair proteins; moreover, the presence of water reduces the concentration of ozone in the air obtaining a less aggressive mixture but still capable of oxidizing the sulfhydryl groups by restoring the disulphide bonds.

Two types of analyzes were carried out on the samples:

to. determination of free sulfhydryl groups by Vis-UV spectrophotometric method using dithiobis-(4-pyridine) (DTBP) as reagent sensitive to the SH group (Winther JR, Thorpe C. Biochim Biophys Acta, 2014, 1840, doi:10.1016/j.bbagen .2013.03.031; RienerCK, Kada G, Gruber HJ. Anal Bioanal Chem, 2002, 373, 266-276 doi:10.1007/s00216-002-1347-2; Hasen RE, Ostergarrd H, Norgaard P, Winther JR. Anal Biochem , 2007, 363, 77-87);

b. determination of the degradation index of keratin by reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) (Signori V, Lewis DM. International Journal of Cosmetic Sciences, 1996, 19, 1-13).

to. Determination of free sulfhydryl groups

The formation of disulfide bonds (S-S) in hair keratin is an important factor that determines its structure and stability. The bleaching or permanent treatments alter the number of disulphide bonds both because? reduce them to sulfhydryl groups SH both why? oxidatively degrade cysteine and its cystine dimer. The analysis of free sulfhydryl groups SH ? an index of good hair health; in fact, if these groups are present in too high a number, it means that the disulphide bonds have been broken and the keratin loses its stability. The number of sulfhydryl groups pu? be determined through the use of dithiobis-(4-pyridine) which, by reacting with the SH groups, forms a compound which absorbs ultraviolet light at 324 nm and allows its quantitative determination by Vis-UV spectrophotometry.

As can be seen from Figure 1a and Figure 1b compared to standard hair, the bleaching treatment reduces the quantity of free SH groups, while the permanent increases it. This ? due to the fact that the bleaching treatment, being strongly oxidizing, degrades the superficial cysteine of the hair, reducing the sensitivity? to the reagent. In particular, the Applicant believes that the phenomenon of reduction of the SH groups following decolorization (Figure 1a) must not be understood as connected to the formation of S-S disulphide bridges, but linked to the constitution of other bonds, therefore different from the disulphide bonds, that the thiol group SH can? form with other molecular residues.

In any case, the subsequent treatment with ozone, according to the cosmetic method of the invention, further reduces the quantity of free SH sulfhydryl groups; There? represents an indirect measurement of the formation of disulfide bridges. However, the doubt remains that a further oxidative treatment could also determine the degradation of keratin at the expense of cysteine, which would in any case decrease the content of sulfhydryl groups, an aspect which is clarified by the study in the following paragraph in FTIR-ATR spectroscopy.

b. Determination of keratin degradation

Infrared spectroscopy represents a valid and fast method for determining protein degradation as it highlights the structural characteristics of the molecules, such as the presence of new functional groups deriving from oxidative processes. In particular, ? It is possible to determine an index of keratin damage by monitoring the signals related to the protein chain (i.e. the signal at 1230-1250 cm<-1 >related to amide bonds) and the signals related to cystine and cysteine oxidation (1040 cm<-1 >). The degradation index can? be calculated by normalizing the area of the signal at 1230-1250 cm<-1 > to 100 and consequently calculating the area of the signal at 1040 cm<-1>. all the more ? high this value, the more? degraded ? cysteine (Figure 2).

Table 2 shows the results of the analyzes carried out.

Table 2

Note that after bleaching or perm the hair is more? damaged compared to the starting situation, and that the treatment with ozone according to the cosmetic method of the invention for 10 minutes improves the situation. This could appear in contrast with the oxidizing power of ozone, which should not lead to a restoration of the oxidized cysteine. However, the reformation of disulfide bridges, which brings the cuticles back together, causes a morphological change of the hair, exposing the damaged parts that remain inside the cuticles to a lesser extent. This undoubtedly also improves the aesthetic appearance of the hair. Prolonged treatment with ozone worsens the situation by demonstrating that ozone, being an aggressive oxidant, in the long run itself triggers oxidative processes which lead to further degradation of the cysteine.

1.1 Conclusions

The chemical investigations based on spectroscopic methods confirm that the treatment with ozonated air bubbled in water for 10 minutes according to the invention improves the chemical structure of the hair by restoring the disulphide bonds of the cysteines which have been damaged by the previous treatments.

Example 2 ? Moisture Absorption Test

The purpose of the study? quantify the level of hair hydration obtained after the cosmetic method of the invention compared to the level of hydration of untreated hair.

2.1 Materials and methods

Ozone device: capable of dispensing ozone; the hair is placed in plastic material bags into which ozone is blown.

Hair braids: for the execution of the test, two different types of hair are distinguished:

- dyed strands, derived from braids of ?Italian Virgin Hair?, about 16 cm long, purchased from the company Imhair ? Palermo. They are composed of straight brown hair, subsequently dyed with permanent colouring;

- bleached strands, derived from plaits of depigmented ?Gold? hair, approximately 16 cm long, purchased from the Imhair company ? Palermo. They are made up of straight, bleached, blonde hair.

Base shampoo: all the strands used, both control and treated, were previously washed with a base shampoo, with the aim of equalizing the surface. The quali-quantitative formula of the shampoo? shown in table 3.

Table 3

Permanent coloring: COLOR+ dye with color 5.60 (light brown, intense red), activated by oxidizing cream in a ratio of 1:2, left on for 40?.

Measuring instrument: Mettler Toledo analytical balance (mod. AB104-S/FACT) maximum capacity of 110 g and sensitivity? up to 0.1 mg.

2.2 Method of measurement

The study involves carrying out the test on two different types of hair:

- hair dyed with permanent colouring: for this type? the comparison between the group of control strands and the group of strands treated for 6 minutes with ozone was foreseen;

- bleached hair: for this type? the comparison between the group of control strands and the group of strands treated for 6 minutes with ozone was foreseen.

Each group ? consisting of 6 strands of similar weight, held together by elastic cotton. All the strands were washed with the basic shampoo of table 3 for about 2 minutes.

The treatment with ozone according to the cosmetic method of the invention ? was performed on wet strands in both cases for 6 minutes.

All the strands were dried with a common hair dryer (2000 Watt) for 10 minutes, at maximum speed. and intermediate temperature.

After drying, each strand is weighed using an analytical balance (T0).

Every strand? been kept for 24 hours at a constant temperature of 30?C and humidity? relative 70%. The strands were weighed at regular time intervals: after 1 hour (T1), 2 hours (T2) and 24 hours (Tf), to check the level of hydration achieved.

Subsequently, the strands were removed from the thermostat chamber and brought back to room temperature (about 21°C, 50% RH). They were weighed again at regular intervals, 1 hour (T3), 2 hours (T4) and 24 hours (Tfg) after removal.

2.3 Results

Figures 3-6 and 7-10 show the weights in grams measured at the various measurement times: immediately after treatment (T0), after 1 hour (T1), 2 hours (T2) and 24 hours (Tf) in thermostated chamber, and after 1 hour (T3), 2 hours (T4) and 24 hours (Tfg) at room temperature.

The results relating to the dyed strands are shown in figures 3-6, while those relating to the bleached strands are shown in figures 7-10.

2.3.1 Dyed strands

In particular, figures 5 and 6 show tables with the differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock.

By applying the t-test function to evaluate whether the weight variation measured between the final time (Tfg) and initial time (T0) is statistically significant, we compare the control group and the group of strands treated for 6 minutes with ozone. We also compare the % variations calculated between the final time and the initial time. When the value of p ? 0.05, the difference between the values? considered statistically significant.

Table 4 t-test Tfg-T0 Dyed strands CONTROL vs OZONE 0.0102 significant

t-test ?%(Tfg-T0) Dyed strands CONTROL vs OZONE 0.0372 significant

2.3.2 Bleached strands

Figures 9 and 10 show tables with the differences calculated between the weights measured at different times and the initial weight for each lock.

We apply the t-test function to evaluate whether the weight variation measured between the final time (Tfg) and initial time (T0) is statistically significant, comparing the control group and the group of strands treated for 6 minutes with ozone. We also compare the % variations calculated between the final time and the initial time. When P ? 0.05, the difference between the values? considered statistically significant.

Table 5 Tfg-T0 t-test Bleached strands CONTROL vs OZONE 0.0222 significant

t-test ?%(Tfg-T0) Bleached strands CONTROL vs OZONE 0.0095 significant

2.4 Conclusions

2.4.1 Dyed strands

The dyed strands treated with ozone present a significantly greater weight variation between the initial and final times than the control strands; in fact, evaluating its? trend, we observe a greater quantity? of humidity? absorbed, especially between T1 and T2, and the maintenance of a higher level of hydration until the final time.

2.4.2 Bleached strands

The bleached strands treated with ozone show a significantly greater weight variation between the initial and final times than the control strands. Observing the trend, in fact, the strands treated with ozone, especially between T1 and T2, have adsorbed a greater quantity of? of humidity? from the beginning. Both groups of treated bleached strands maintained a higher level of? high in hydration until the final time.

Example 3 - Hair repair power test

The purpose of the study? the evaluation of the load that must be applied to a hair in order to break it, when subjected to constant tensile stress. Proof ? was carried out in comparison, on hair treated with ozone and untreated hair.

3.1 Materials and methods

Ozone device: capable of dispensing ozone; the hair is placed in plastic material bags into which ozone is blown.

Hair braids: for the execution of the test, two different types of hair are distinguished:

- bleached strands, derived from plaits of depigmented ?Gold? hair, approximately 16 cm long, purchased from the Imhair company ? Palermo. They are made up of straight, bleached, blond hair;

- permed strands, derived from braids of ?Italian Virgin Hair?, approximately 16 cm long, purchased from the company Imhair ? Palermo. They are composed of brown straight hair, on which? a permanent treatment was carried out.

Base shampoo: all the strands used, both control and treated, were previously washed with a base shampoo, with the aim of equalizing the surface. The quali-quantitative formula of the shampoo? shown in table 6.

Table 6

Perm products: a curling lotion and a neutralizer (Inebrya) were used to create the perm, applied to strands of hair fixed on rollers.

Measuring instrument: for measuring the breaking load ? The TX-700 Texture Analyzer by Lamy Rheology was used (Figure 11), equipped with the ?Noodle Tensile Fixture? to which the hair is fixed.

The setting parameters used for the traction test are the following: speed? 1mm/s, distance 40mm, trigger force 10.2g.

The instrument supplies the recorded force values (g) as a function of the distance (mm). ? possible to extrapolate the data of maximum force measured, at which the hair suffers breakage. Here is an example of a graph (Figure 12) obtained from the measurement carried out using the mode? described.

3.2 Preparation of the strands

A braid of hair, for both types,? previously washed with the basic shampoo of table 6 for about 2 minutes. This procedure ? carried out in order to equalize the condition of the hair. From each braid 6 locks weighing about 1-2 g were obtained, held together by means of elastic cotton. The strands are cos? divided: 2 strands per control group; 2 strands per group treated with ozone.

3.2.1 Bleached strands

After washing with base shampoo, the control strands were dried for 10 minutes with a common hair dryer (2000 Watt), at maximum speed. and at intermediate temperatures. The other strands were treated by being wet for 6 minutes with ozone and subsequently dried for 10 minutes.

3.2.2 Permed strands

After washing with basic shampoo, the strands were wrapped in rollers and ? the permanent treatment was carried out. After being rinsed, the control strands were dried for 10 minutes using a common hair dryer (2000 Watt), at maximum speed. and intermediate temperature. The other strands were treated by being wet for 6 minutes with ozone, and subsequently dried for 10 minutes.

3.3 Results

The results of the measurements carried out on each group of strands are shown below. Mean value and standard deviation were calculated on tensile strength values in grams. They were compared by t-test function for the group of control strands vs ozone. The difference between the values of the series ? considered statistically significant with a value of probability? p ? 0.05.

3.3.1 Bleached strands

The results are shown in figure 13.

From the statistical comparison we get:

Table 7

BLEACH CONTROL VS BLEACH OZONE p < 0.05

3.3.2 Permanent strands

The results are shown in figure 14.

From the statistical comparison we get:

Table 8

PERMANENT CONTROL VS BLEACHING OZONE p < 0.05

3.4 Conclusions

Treatment with ozone determines, both on bleached and permed strands, a significant improvement in terms of resistance to breaking load. The increase is greater following treatment with ozone.

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic hair care method including the following steps: a) carry out a technical treatment on the hair, comprising at least the sub-phases of a1) apply on the hair one or more? functional compositions for technical treatment, a2) leave on the hair l? One or more? functional compositions for technical treatment, a3) wash the hair to remove from the hair one or more? functional compositions for technical treatment, b) apply ozone to the hair for a period of time between 3 and 20 minutes and at a dosage between 180 mg/h and 400 mg/h, in which the phase of application of the ozone (b) ? carried out on damp hair, at the end of the technical treatment phase (a). 2. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the technical treatment is chosen from: hair reconstruction, hair conditioning, coloring, bleaching, permanent and combinations of the previous ones. 3. Cosmetic method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the technical treatment is chosen between discoloration and permanent. 4. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the technical treatment is discoloration and in which the phase of carrying out a technical treatment on the hair (a) comprises at least the sub-phases of: - applying to the hair a first functional composition for the technical treatment, said functional composition being a bleaching composition, - leaving the bleaching composition on the hair, - wash the hair to remove the bleaching composition from the hair. 5. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims from 1 to 3, wherein the technical treatment is the perm and in which the phase of carrying out a technical treatment on the hair (a) includes at least the sub-phases of: - select one or more strands of hair and wrap them on curlers, - applying to the hair a first functional composition for the technical treatment, said first functional composition being a waving composition, - leaving the waving composition on the hair, - wash your hair to remove the waving composition, - applying to the hair a second functional composition for the technical treatment, said second functional composition being a neutralizing composition, - leave the neutralizing composition on the hair, - remove the curlers and wash your hair to remove the neutralizing composition. 6. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) comprises the following sub-steps: b1) prepare ozone in gaseous form; b2) prepare water in liquid form; b3) dispense ozone in gaseous form on the hair and, at the same time, spray water in liquid form on damp hair; or b1?) preparing ozone in gaseous form; b2?) dispense ozone in gaseous form on damp hair. 7. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) comprises the following sub-steps: b1??) prepare ozone in gaseous form b2??) prepare water in liquid form, b3??) solubilize ozone in gaseous form in water to obtain humidified ozone, and b4??) apply humidified ozone on damp hair. 8. Cosmetic method according to claim 7, wherein the ozone content in the humidified ozone is ? between 350 mg and 600 mg per liter of humidified ozone. 9. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) takes place by means of a means selected from the group consisting of: a hair brush, a hair comb, a hair dryer (with or without diffuser), a hair straightener, a shampoo, a hair cap, a hair helmet, a nebulizer. 10. Cosmetic method according to any one of claims from 1 to 9, wherein the step of applying ozone to the hair (b) provides for a delivery flow of between 1 and 5 L/min.