GB523023A - Improvements in or relating to process of and apparatus for sewing necktie material or the like - Google Patents

Abstract

523,023. Sewing-machines. STEVENS, A. H. (American Machine and Foundry Co.). Dec. 22, 1938, No. 37301. [Class 112] A machine for sewing together a cut-topattern longitudinally-folded necktie fabric and a cut-to-pattern unfolded lining comprises means for guiding the fabric into a definite position relative to the lining and to a predetermined line of stitching and means for then gathering the fabric and lining into transverse folds and spitting them on a needle, whereby a thread can be drawn through the folds. In the arrangement shown, the work is corrugated by passage between two meshing toothed wheels 27, 28 and is fed by them on to a needle 42 which is held stationary laterally and longitudinally during the operation but is rotated on its axis to facilitate penetration of the work ; the teeth of the wheels are grooved at 51 to allow the needle to pass between the wheels. Auxiliary feed rollers 60, driven by a gear wheel 79 rigid with the wheel 27, are provided. The wheels 27, 28 are driven by chain gearing from a main shaft 20, the wheel 28 and its gearing being carried on an arm 35 pivoted on the shaft 20 so that the wheels 27 can be lifted for positioning the work ; the lowest position of the wheel 28 is determined by an adjustable stop on the arm 35 engaging the work-plate 76. The needlebar 44 is slidable and rotatable in a block 45 which is pivoted on the frame and is held in the working position by a locking pin, sliding of the needle-bar in the block 45 being normally prevented by a spring catch 47 engaging one of a series of grooves in the needle-bar to determine the working position of the needle; rotation of the needle is effected by a friction wheel 67 on the needle-bar engaging the face of a disc 66 driven from the main shaft 20. When the work is completely spitted on the needle, the catch 47. is released and the needle is slid back clear of the wheels 27, 28 ; the locking pin of the block 45 is then withdrawn, allowing the needle to be swung to the dotted position in Fig. 1 for threading and stitching. In order to guide the tie lining during the operation of the machine, the work-plate 76 carries a pair of slidable guide plates 73 having rollers engaging cam grooves 71 in a drum 70 which is rigid with the wheel 27, the cam grooves being formed according to the shape of the tie lining whereby the guide plates are moved to lie always in contact with the lining. The tie fabric is guided by an adjustable member 78 on a cover plate 76a pivoted to the work-plate 76 at 77; the guide 78 may be replaced by a device which folds the fabric as well as positioning it. The wheels 27, 28 may be replaced by toothed chains running over guide pulleys, providing an increased number of teeth in contact with the work, or the wheel 27 may be replaced by such a chain and the wheel 28 by a cam-operated plunger entering the tooth spaces of the chain.