GB2570027A

GB2570027A - Relaxer with methionine

Info

Publication number: GB2570027A
Application number: GB1817391.4A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Scheunemann Volker; Schulze Zur Wiesche Erik
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2017-10-27
Filing date: 2018-10-25
Publication date: 2019-07-10
Anticipated expiration: 2038-10-25
Also published as: FR3072876B1; GB201817391D0; DE102017219296A1; FR3072876A1; GB2570027B

Abstract

Hair treatment agents which contain, with respect to their weight, from 0.0001% to 20% of methionine and from 0 to 10% of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (I) M(OH) in which M represents an alkali metal cation or NH4+; and/or from 0 to 20% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (II) M(OH)2 in which M represents an alkaline earth metal cation, such that the sum of the quantities of the metal hydroxides with formulae (I) and (II) is from 0.1% to 20% by weight and the pH of the agent is from 9 to 14. The agents are intended to reinforce the internal structure of the hair. In some embodiments, cationic polymers, including cellulose or guar derivatives, are included. In other embodiments, the composition may be in two parts with the second part containing guanidine carbonate. Methods of applying the compositions to hair are also disclosed.

Description

RELAXER WITH METHIONINE TECHNICAL FIELD

The present disclosure relates to a method for permanently styling keratinous fibres as well as to a styling agent for carrying out this method.

BACKGROUND

[0001] In the past, there has been no shortage of attempts to formulate hair styling agents which are gentle on the structure of the hair fibres, mild on the scalp and deliver an excellent waving or straightening result.

[0002] According to WO 2008/110223 A2, lipoic acid or a derivative thereof can be used to reduce the damage to the hair caused by keratin-reducing compounds.

[0003] However, there is still a need for hair styling agents for permanent styling of keratinous fibres for which, after using them, the aforementioned undesirable side effects of the keratin-reducing substances are reduced or completely eliminated. At the same time, a very good waving or straightening effect should be obtained, and scalp irritation should be reduced.

SUMMARY

[0004] Aspects and embodiments of the invention are defined in the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0005] Embodiments of the present invention relate to a method for permanently styling keratinous fibres as well as to a styling agent for carrying out this method.

[0006] The cosmetic, permanent styling of keratinous fibres is essentially based on mechanically shaping the chemically pre-treated fibres. The fibres shaped in this manner are then, if necessary, set by means of a suitable fixing agent.

[0007] During the course of that method, the keratinous fibres are treated with an aqueous keratin-reducing substance. The keratin-reducing substance splits a portion of the disulphide bonds of the keratin to form -SH groups, resulting in a relaxation of the peptide cross-links and, as a result, in the tension in the fibres due to the mechanical styling into a new orientation of the keratin matrix. The aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance is normally set so that it is alkaline in order to allow deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fibres due to swelling of the fibres and to ensure sufficient deprotonation of the thiol functions of the hair.

[0008] Alternatively, the disulphide bonds of the keratin can be split with what are known as basic (lye-based) and/or non-basic (No-lye) relaxers. Basic relaxers are usually preparations based on sodium hydroxide. The non-basic relaxers are usually based on potassium or lithium hydroxides, and in particular on guanidinium hydroxide.

[0009] The mechanical shaping carried out at the same time or subsequently results in a new orientation of the keratin matrix in the hair. In a final step, the fibres can be treated with an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. Underthe influence ofthe oxidizing agent, fresh disulphide bonds are formed, and in this manner, the keratin matrix is set into the predetermined style.

[00010] The method described above can be used both to produce curls and waves in straight hair and also to straighten curly hair. A negative side effect of perming/straightening hair in this manner is frequent splitting and dulling of the hair. In the worst case scenario, this side effect leads to permanent damage to the hair fibre, which can result in breakage of the hair or splitting of the hair. Furthermore, in sensitive individuals, irritation of the scalp may occur as a result of the keratin-reducing or disulphide bond-cleaving compounds.

[00011] It has now been discovered that a special combination of substances results in significantly improved reinforcement of the internal structure.

[00012] In a first aspect, the present invention provides hair treatment agents containing - with respect to their weight - a) from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of methionine; b) from about 0 to about 10% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (I) :

(I) in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH41", c) from about 0 to about 20% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (II) :

(Π) in which M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation, with the proviso that the sum of the quantities of the ingredients b) and c) is from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight and the pH of the agent is from about 9 to about 14.

[00013] The hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain disulphide bond-cleaving substance(s) as a component. The disulphide bond-cleaving substance(s) are preferably basic or non-basic relaxers. As a rule, basic relaxers contain sodium hydroxide. Despite their name, non-basic relaxers may contain soluble hydroxides of inorganic metals such as potassium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide In particular, the non-basic relaxer used may be a combination of guanidinium carbonate and calcium hydroxide. The latter leads to the formation of guanidinium hydroxide. Because guanidinium hydroxide is unstable, the two starting components are stored separately until the moment of use.

[00014] The hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may also contain two or more of said disulphide bond-cleaving substances.

[00015] Particularly advantageously, agents in accordance with the invention may be formulated so as to be in two phases, which is advantageous as regards formulation (in particular as regards product stability) and as regards consumer acceptance. Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they are two-phase agents, which in phase 1 contain - with respect to the weight of the agent - a) from about to about 20% by weight of methionine, b) from about 0 to about 10% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (I):

(I)

in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH4+, c) from about 0 to to about 20% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (II):

(II) in which M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation, with the proviso that the sum of the quantities of the ingredients b) and c) is from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, and in phase 2 contain - with respect to the weight of the agent - d) from about 0 to about 20% by weight of methionine, e) from about 0 .1 % to about 50% by weight of guanidine carbonate, wherein the sum of the quantities of the ingredients a) and d) (= methionine) is from about 0.0005 to about 20% by weight.

[00016] Irrespective of whether the agents are single phase or two-phase in formulation, the hair treatment agent contains methionine. Preferably, this is used in a narrow range of quantities, wherein hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention which contain - with respect to their weight - a total quantity of from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of methionine, are preferred.

[00017] The agents in accordance with the invention contain, as a further essential ingredient, metal hydroxide(s) with formula (I) and/or metal hydroxide(s) with formula (II). Thus, agents in accordance with the invention may contain: exclusively metal hydroxide(s) with formula (I) or exclusively metal hydroxide(s) with formula (II) or - both metal hydroxide(s) with formula (I) and metal hydroxide(s) with formula (II). The total quantity of these two substances - with respect to the agent in its entirety - is from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.

[00018] In the metal hydroxides with formula (I), M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH4+. Preferred metal hydroxides with formula (I) are LiOH, NaOH, KOH and NH4OH. Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are

characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.0001% to about 4.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001 % to about 3% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide.

[00019] In the metal hydroxides with formula (II), M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation. Preferred metal hydroxides with formula (II) are Mg(OH)2, Ca(OH)2, Sr(OH)2 and Ba(OH)2. Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.0001 % to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of magnesium hydroxide.

[00020] Similarly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of calcium hydroxide.

[00021] As mentioned above, two phase agents in accordance with the invention contain, in phase 2, from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight of guanidine carbonate, wherein the quantities are given with respect to the agent as a whole and not to phase 2 alone. Guanidium carbonate:

is an alkalization agent which is widely used in hair styling and hair straightening agents. Preferred two phase hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that in phase 2 they contain - with respect to the weight of the agent -from about 0.25% to about 45% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 35% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 30% by weight of guanidine carbonate.

[00022] Hair which is treated/styled with the agents in accordance with the invention exhibit reduced hair damage in the form of a higher melting temperature and a higher tensile strength. In addition, this hair exhibits a higher contact angle of water droplets on the hair. The latter demonstrates that the surface of the hair has been rendered hydrophobic. In addition, the wet and dry combability is improved.

[00023] The agents in accordance with the invention preferably contain the substances in a cosmetic support. This cosmetic support is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic. The term “hydroalcoholic supports” should be understood to mean compositions containing water which contain, with respect to their total weight, from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 2.5% to about 25% by weight and in particular from about 5% to about 20% by weight of a C1-C4 alcohol, preferably ethanol and/or 2-propanol and/or 1,2-propylene glycol. In the context of the invention, an “aqueous support” contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the agent in accordance with the invention. Preferred agents in accordance with the invention contain, with respect to their total weight, from about 40% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 50% to about 98% by weight, particularly preferably from about 60% to about 95% by weight and in particular from about 70% to about 90% by weight of water. The pH (10% solution, 20°C) of preferred styling agents is from about 2 to about 12, preferably from about 7 to about 11 and in particular from about 8 to about 10.

[00024] The agents in accordance with the invention may contain components which strengthen the waving power such as, for example, heterocyclic compounds such as, for example imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine as well as derivatives of these compounds, amino acids, in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine, as well as oligopeptides formed by from about 2 to about 3 amino acids on average, and diols such as, for example, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentylglycol and ethylene glycol.

[00025] More particularly preferred components which strengthen the waving power are selected from the group consisting of imidazole, arginine(salts), arginine-rich oligopeptides, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol.

[00026] The agents which strengthen the waving power may be contained in the agents in accordance with the invention in quantities of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, with respect to the agent in its entirety. Quantities of from about 1 % to about 4% by weight, in the case of diols from about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, have been shown to be sufficient; thus, these quantities are particularly preferred.

[00027] The agents in accordance with the invention may contain further substances, in particular further care products. Examples of the further substances include non-ionic polymers, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric/zwitterionic polymers, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, zwitterionic/amphoteric surfactants, fats, cosmetic oily substances, plant extracts, protein hydrolysates, penetration aids or swelling agents. Tn particular, non-ionic polymers, anionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric/zwitterionic polymers or cationic surfactants may be added to the agents in accordance with the invention as further care products.

[00028] Cationic polysaccharide polymers enhance the conditioning power of the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention (in particular the effectiveness of the agents in accordance with the invention against hair breakage). Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers may be selected from cationic cellulose compounds and/or from cationic guar derivatives.

[00029] Irrespective of whether the agents are formulated in one or in two phases, preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.01%to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of cationic polymer(s), preferably from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group formed by cationic cellulose polymers and/or cationic guar derivatives.

[00030] “Cationic cellulose derivatives”, in the context of the present invention, are those which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Cellulose is formed from beta-l,4-glycosidically linked D-glucopyranose units and forms unbranched, water-insoluble chains. The “side chain” of a cellulose is defined as a chemical substituent which bonds to the cellulose backbone and is not counted as native cellulose because it has been added subsequently, for example by chemical synthesis.

[00031] Quaternary cellulose polymers which are derived from hydroxy(C2-C4)alkylcelluloses are preferred, particularly those from hydroxyethyl celluloses.

[00032] Such polymers are known to the person skilled in the art and are commercially available from various firms. Cationic cellulose derivatives known by the INCI names polyquatemium-4, polyquatemium-10, polyquatemium-24, polyquatemium-67 and/or polyquatemium-72 are particularly preferred. Polyquatemium-10, polyquatemium-24 and/or polyquatemium-67 are more particularly preferred, and polyquatemium-10 is especially particularly preferred.

[00033] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s) - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group formed by polyquatemium-4, polyquatemium-10, polyquatemium-24, polyquatemium-67 and/or polyquatemium-72.

[00034] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s) - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of polyquatemium-10.

[00035] Suitable cationic guar derivatives in the context of the invention are cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and/or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar with mean molecular weights of between 100000 and 2000000 Dalton. Cationic guar polymers known by the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride with a molecular weight (mass average) of between 200000 and 1600000 Dalton are particularly preferred. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.4 meq/g, preferably at least 0.5 meq/g and in particular at least 0.6 meq/g. Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range from about 1.1% to about 1.8% by weight (with respect to their total weight).

[00036] Cationic guar derivatives, which are known by the INCI name of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, are known to the person skilled in the art and are available from various suppliers, for example under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar, N-Hance® and/or Jaguar®.

[00037] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s) - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[00038] The hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain further ingredients; particularly preferably, they contain one or more surfactants. In hair cleaning agents, anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants as well as, if necessary, non-ionic surfactants have proved to be useful, while in hair conditioning agents, cationic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s) as well as non-ionic surfactants, on occasion, are primarily used [00039] In this regard, preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight and in particular from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of surfactant(s).

[00040] Hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention preferably contain at least one anionic and/or amphoteric and/or non-ionic surfactant.

[00041] Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions in accordance with the invention are any anionic surfactant substances which are suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by an anionic group which makes it hydrosoluble, for example a carboxylate, sulphate, sulphonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group containing from approximately 8 to approximately 30 C atoms. In addition, the molecule may contain glycol- or polyglycol-ether groups, esters, ethers and amide groups, as well as hydroxy groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers, respectively in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salt, as well as in the form of the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts containing 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol groups, linear and branched fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 30 C atoms (soaps), ether carbonic acids with formula R-0-(CH2-CH20)x-CH2-C00H, in which R is a linear alkyl group containing from about 8 to about 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acyl sarcosides containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acylisethionates containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group, linear alkanesulphonates containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms, linear alpha-olefinsulphonates containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms, - alpha-sulpho fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 30 C atoms, acyl glutamates with formula (T-I):

in which R CO represents a linear or branched acyl residue containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X represents hydrogen, an alkali- and/or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or gluco ammonium, for example acyl glutamate, derived from fatty acids containing from about 6 to about 22, preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms such as, for example, C12/14- or C12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and/or stearic acid, in particular sodium-N-cocoyl and sodium-N-stearoyl L-glutamate, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid with general formula (T-II),

in which X= H or is a -CH2COOR-group, Y= H or is -OH, with the proviso that Y=H when X=-CH2COOR, R, R1 and R2, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a residue Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound, selected from the group formed by etherified (C6-C18) alkylpolysaccharides containing 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and/or from etherified aliphatic (C6-C16) hydroxyalkylpolyols containing 2 to 16 hydroxyl residues, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R1 or R2 is a residue Z, esters of sulphosuccinic acid or of sulphosuccinates with general formula (T-III):

in which M(n+/n) represents, for n = 1, a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium-organic base, and for n = 2, an alkaline earth metal cation and R1 and R2, independently of each other, represents a

hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a residue Z which derives from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group formed by etherified (C6-C18) alkylpolysaccharides containing from about 1 to about 6 monomeric saccharide units and/or from etherified aliphatic (Cg-Cig) hydroxyalkylpolyols containing from about 2 to about 16 hydroxyl residues, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R1 or R2 is a residue Z, sulphosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulphosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 oxyethyl groups, - alkyl sulphates and alkylpolyglycolether sulphates with formula R-(0-CH2-CH2)x-OSO3H, in which R is preferably a linear alkyl group containing 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 - 12, - mixed surface-active hydroxysulphonates in accordance with DE-A-37 25 030, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which constitute addition products of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to C8-22 fatty alcohols, alkyl- and/or alkenyletherphosphates, - sulphated fatty acid alkyleneglycol esters, - monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates.

[00042] Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, respectively with a linear or branched acyl residue containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds which, in particularly preferred embodiments, is selected from octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl residues, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucoses, in particular the products with the INCl name disodium coco-glucoside citrate, sodium coco-glucoside tartrate and disodium coco-glucoside sulphosuccinate, alkylpolyglycolether sulphates and ether carbonic acids containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulphosuccinic acid mono- and dialkylesters containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulphosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 ethoxy groups.

[00043] Further preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulphates, alkylpolyglycolether sulphates and ethercarboxylic acid salts containing from about 10 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulphosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulphosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 oxyethyl groups.

[00044] Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali or ammonium salts of lauryl ether sulphates with a degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 4 EO.

[00045] Preferred hair treatment agents contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 10% by weight of anionic surfactant(s).

[00046] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 10% by weight of alkyl(ether) sulphates with general formula R-(OCH2-CH2)n-OSO3X, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from about 8 to about 24 C atoms, n representing the number 0 or 1 to 12, and X representing an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion.

[00047] Instead of anionic surfactants or as a complement thereto, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one non-ionic surfactant. Surfactants which have both a negatively and also a positively charged functional group are described as amphoteric surfactants or as zwitterionic surfactants.

[00048] Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are what are known as betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline each containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylamino ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[00049] Further examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each containing approximately from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C12 - Ci8 - acyl sarcosine.

[00050] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain -with respect to their weight - from about 0.3% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of amphoteric surfactant(s).

[00051] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain amphoteric surfactant(s) from the groups formed by a) N-alkylglycines, b) N-alkylpropionic acids, c) N-alkylaminobutyric acids, d) N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, e) N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, f) N-alkyl taurines, g) N-alkyl sarcosines, h) 2-alkylaminopropionic acids respectively containing approximately from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, i) alkylaminoacetic acids respectively containing approximately from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, j) N-cocoalkylamino propionate, k) Cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate, l) C12 - Ci8 acyl sarcosine, m) N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, n) N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, o) 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline respectively containing from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, p) cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate, q) compounds known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, r) compounds known by the INCI name disodium cocoamphodiacetate, wherein preferred agents contain the amphoteric surfactant(s) in quantities of from about 0.3% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight, respectively with respect to the agent in its entirety.

[00052] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain betaines with formula (Bet-I) as amphoteric surfactants: (1)

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms.

[00053] These surfactants are described in the INCI nomenclature as amidopropylbetaines, wherein the representatives which derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are described as cocoamidopropylbetaines. Particularly preferred surfactants in accordance with the invention are those with formula (Bet-I), which are a mixture of the following representatives:

[00054] Particularly preferably, the surfactants with formula (Bet-I) are used within narrow ranges of quantities. In this regard, the hair treatment agents used in accordance with the invention preferably contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5.5% by weight of surfactant(s) with formula (Bet-I).

[00055] In addition to the amphoteric surfactants with formula (Bet-I) or in place thereof, particularly advantageously, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain, as amphoteric surfactants, betaines with formula (Bet-II): i)

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[00056] These surfactants are described as amphoacetates in the INCI nomenclature, wherein the representatives which derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are described as cocoamphoactetates.

[00057] For technical manufacturing reasons, this type of surfactant always also contains betaines with formula (Bet-IIa):

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or poly-unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M represents a cation.

[0005 8] These surfactants are described in the INCI nomenclature as amphodiacetates, wherein the representatives which derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are described as cocoamphodiactetates.

[00059] Particularly preferred surfactants in accordance with the invention are those with formula (Bet-II), which are a mixture of the following representatives:

[00060] Particularly preferably, the surfactants with formula (Bet-II) are used within narrow ranges of quantities. In this regard, the hair treatment agents used in accordance with the invention preferably contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.25%

to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5.5% by weight of surfactant(s) with formula (Bet-II).

[00061] In summary, preferred cosmetic agents in accordance with the invention are those in which the residue R in the formulae (Bet-I) and (Bet-II) is selected from: [00062]

[00063]

or mixtures thereof.

[00064] The hair treatment agents may contain non-ionic surfactant(s).

[00065] Examples of suitable non-ionic surfactants include: addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, onto fatty acids containing from about 12 to about 22 C atoms and onto alkylphenols containing from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, - addition products of ethylene oxide and polyglycerin onto methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C8-C30 fatty acid mono- and di-esters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerin, - amine oxides, - sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates, for example, - fatty acid alkanolamides with the following general formula:

in which R preferably represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the residues R’ represent hydrogen or the group -(CH2)nOH, in which n

represents the numbers 2 or 3, with the proviso that at least one of the residues R’ represents the residue -(CH2)nOH defined above, - fatty acid ester of sugars and addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty' acid ester of sugars, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, and/or - alkyl(oligo)glucosides, - mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov® 68, - addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, - partial esters of polyols containing from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, sterols. “Sterols” should be understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxy group on C3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and also from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts; they are known as mycosterols. - phospholipids. This primarily means glucose-phospolipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolk or from vegetable seeds (for example soyabeans).

[00066] Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides may be selected from compounds with general formula RO-[G]x, in which [G] preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses containing from about 5 to about6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.

[00067] The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DO), i.e. the distribution of the mono- and oligo-gly cosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, particularly preferably in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein in this regard, it does not have to be a whole number but may be a fractional number which can be determined analytically.

[00068] Particularly preferred alkyl(oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.

[00069] The residue R preferably represents at least one alkyl- and/or alkenyl residue containing from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.

[00070] Particularly preferred alkyl(oligo)glycosides are those compounds known by the INCI names caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and coco glucoside.

[00071] Suitable aminoxides may be selected from at least one compound with general formula (A-I) or (A-II):

in which R respectively represents a linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl residue containing from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably containing from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.

[00072] Particularly preferred surfactants are those with the aforementioned formulae (A-I) or (A-II) with the INCI names cocamine oxide, lauramine oxide and/or cocamidopropylaminoxide, which are commercially available from a number of different suppliers.

[00073] The term “ suitable C8-C30 fatty acid mono- and di-esters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerin” should preferably be understood to mean those with the INCI names PEG(l-lO) glyceryl cocoate, in particular PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

[00074] It may be of further advantage to combine the ethoxylated fatty acid esters with further ethoxylated fatty acid esters. Product mixtures of this type are commercially available - for example with the designation “Antil 200®” (INCI name: PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) from Evonik.

[00075] Particularly preferred non-ionic surfactants which may be contained in the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular those compounds known by the INCI names cocamide MEA and/or cocamide MIPA; alkyl(oligo)glucosides, in particular those compounds known by the INCI names caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and/or coco glucoside; Cs-C30 fatty acid mono- and di-esters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerin, in particular the compound known by the INCI name PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; and/or addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.

[00076] Because of their foam-stabilizing and replenishing properties, cocamide MEA and/or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate are particularly preferred.

[00077] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain -with respect to their weight - from about 0.3% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s).

[00078] Hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may preferably contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound, wherein preferred QACs are selected from: a) alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides preferably containing from about 10 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue, and/or b) dialkyl dimethylammonium chlorides preferably containing from about 10 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue, and/or c) trialkylmethylammonium chlorides preferably containing from about 10 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl residue, and/or d) cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and/or e) stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and/or f) behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, and/or g) distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, and/or h) lauryl dimethylammonium chloride, and/or i) lauryl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and/or j) tricetylmethylammonium chloride, k) quatemium-27, and/or l) quatemium-83.

[00079] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain -with respect to their weight - from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight and in particular from about 0.5%to about 7% by weight of cationic surfactant(s).

[00080] Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are selected from compounds with the following formula (IV):

in which at most three residues R1 to R4 , independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 C atoms, at least one residue R1 to R4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl chain containing 8 to 30 C atoms, and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

In preferred compounds with formula (IV): -two or three residues R1 to R4 represent a methyl or an ethyl group, -one or two residue(s) R1 to R4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl chain containing 14 to 26 C atoms, and

-A represents a halide ion, a sulphate ion with general formula RSO3', wherein R represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or represents an anionic residue of an organic acid such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid.

[00081] Compounds with formula (IV) which are more preferred are those in which: from about three residues R1 to about R4 represent a methyl group, from about one residue R1 to about R4 represents a cetyl, palmityl, stearyl, arachidyl or a behenyl group, and A represents a chloride or a methosulphate ion.

[00082] Particularly preferably, the at least one compound with formula (IV) is selected from: cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, behenyl trimethylammonium chloride, and/or behenyl trimethylammonium methosulfate. These compounds may be used in the agent in accordance with the invention individually or in combinations thereof, wherein the maximum total quantity of compounds with formula (I) in the agent is preferably 10% by weight, and wherein the quantities are given with respect to the total weight of the agent in accordance with the invention.

[00083] More particularly preferably, the agent in accordance with the invention contains behenyl trimethylammonium chloride as the cationic surfactant. In this respect, preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are those which contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight and in particular from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of behenyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[00084] In summary, preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight and in particular from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of cationic surfactant(s), preferably from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8% by weight and in particular from about 0.5% to about 7% by weight of behenyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[00085] The hair treatment agents may also contain at least one esterquat as the cationic surfactant. The term “esterquats” in the context of the present invention preferably should preferably be understood to mean compounds with the following formula (V):

in which the residues R5, R6 and R7 respectively independently of each other, may be identical or different and have the following meanings: a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue containing from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue containing from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, or an aryl or alkylaryl residue, for example phenyl or benzyl, or (- X - R8), with the proviso that at most two of the residues R5, R6 or R7 may represent (- X - R8), wherein X has the following meaning: -(CH2)n- with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = from about 1 to about 10 and particularly preferably n = 1-5, or -(CH2-CHR9-0)n- with n = 1 to 200, preferably from about 1 to about 100, more preferably from about 1 to about 50, and particularly preferably from about 1 to about 20, and wherein R9 represents hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, or

a hydroxyalkylene group containing from about one to about four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, and wherein R8 has the following meaning: R10-O-CO-, wherein RIO is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which could furthermore if necessary be oxyethylated with from about 1 to about 100 ethylene oxide units and/or from about 1 to about 100 propylene oxide units, or R11-CO-, wherein R11 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl residue containing from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and could furthermore be oxyethylated with from about 1 to about 100 ethylene oxide units and/or from about 1 to about 100 propylene oxide units, and in which A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion; preferably, one of the residues R5, R6 or R7 represents the group (- X - R8), R8 representing a non-ethoxylated fatty acid residue such as a palmitic, stearic, arachidic or behenic acid residue, in particular a stearic acid residue, and A represents a halide ion, a sulphate ion with general formula RSO3', wherein R represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or represents an anionic residue of an organic acid such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid, in particular a chloride ion or a methosulphate ion.

[00086] The esterquats which are suitable for the agents in accordance with the invention are preferably selected from at least one of the products sold with the trade names Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat®. Specific examples of particularly suitable esterquats for the purposes of the invention are the products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131.

[00087] Agents in accordance with the invention which contain, as the esterquat, at least one of the compounds known by the INCI names distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium chloride are particularly preferred.

[00088] Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate is particularly preferred, and is contained in the agents in accordance with the invention in a preferred quantity of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight, wherein the quantities are with respect to the total weight of the agent in accordance with the invention.

[00089] The esterquat or esterquats may be added to the agents in accordance with the invention both individually as well as in a mixture with other conditioning substances.

[00090] Because of the better handling capability and processability, it may be advantageous for the esterquat or esterquats - in particular distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate - to be added to the agents in accordance with the invention as a mixture of substances. A particularly suitable example of such a mixture of substances is, for example, obtainable under the trade name Dehyquart® F 75 from BASF (distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol).

[00091] Preferred hair treatment agents contain at least one fatty alcohol.

[00092] Fatty alcohols are aliphatic, long-chain, monovalent primary alcohols with hydrocarbon residues which contain 6 to 30, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon residues here may be saturated or mono- or poly-unsaturated. Fatty alcohols which are preferably used in the context of the present invention are selected from 1-hexanol, 1-heptanol, 1-octanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), 1-tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol)l, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-heptadecanol (margaryl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-eisosanol (arachidyl alcohol), 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol), 1-tetracosanol (lignoceryl alcohol), 1-hexacosanol (ceryl alcohol), 1- octacosanol (montanyl alcohol), 1-triacontanol (melissyl alcohol), cw-9-hexadecen-l-ol (palmitoleyl alcohol), cw-9-octadecen-l-ol (oleyl alcohol), /ram-9-octadecen-1 -ol (elaidyl alcohol), cis-11 -octadcccn-1 -ol, 6.9.12-octadecatrien-l-ol (γ-linolenyl alcohol) and mixtures thereof.

[00093] Preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 10% by weight of fatty alcohol(s).

[00094] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 8% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) with formula (III):

(TTT), in which k represents whole numbers from about 4 to about 28, preferably from about 6 to about 24, more preferably from about 8 to about 22 and in particular 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 or 20.

[00095] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 8% by weight of alcohol(s) from the group formed by 1-dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol), wherein the quantities are with respect to the total quantity of said fatty alcohols in the composition.

[00096] More particularly preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5%to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 8% by weight of

alcohol(s) from the group formed by 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), wherein the quantities are with respect to the total quantity of said fatty alcohols in the composition.

[00097] The hair treatment agents preferably contain at least one silicone which provides the hair with a pleasant feel and which reinforces the structure-reinforcing action of the combination in accordance with the invention.

[00098] Preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone which is selected from: -polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which are volatile or non-volatile, linear, branched or cyclic, cross-linked or not cross-linked; -polysiloxanes which contain one or more organofunctional groups in their general structure, which are selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted amino groups; b) (per)fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxy groups; f) alkoxyl groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulphite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxyl groups; l) sulphonic acid groups; and m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups; -linear polysiloxane(A)- polyoxyalkylene(B)- block copolymers of type (A-B)n with n > 3; -grafted silicone polymers with non-silicone-containing, organic backbones, which consist of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers which do not contain any silicone onto which at least one polysiloxane macromer is grafted within the chain as well as, if appropriate, onto at least one chain end; -grafted silicone polymers with polysiloxane backbones onto which non-silicone-containing organic monomers have been grafted which have a polysiloxane main chain onto which at least one organic macromer which does not contain any silicone has been grafted within the chain as well as, if appropriate, onto at least one end thereof, or mixtures thereof.

[00099] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of silicone(s).

[000100] Preferred silicones will be described below.

[000101] Particularly preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone with formula Si-I: Ο

[000102] in which x represents a number from about 0 to about 100, preferably from about 0 to about 50, more preferably from about 0 to about 20 and in particular from about 0 to about 10.

[000103] These silicones are described in the INCI nomenclature as DIMETHICONE. In the context of the present invention, the following compounds are preferably used as the silicone with formula Si-I: (CH3)3Si-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-0-(CH3)2Si-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]2-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]3-0-Si(CH3)3 (Cft)3Si-[0-(Cft)2Si]4-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]5-0-Si(CH3)3 (Cft)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]6-0-Si(CH3)3

(CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]7-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]8-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]9-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]io-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(GH3)2Si]ii-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]i2-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Sl-[0-(CH3)2Si]l3-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Sl]l4-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Sl-[0-(CH3)2Si]l5-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Sl]l6-0-Sl(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]i7-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]18-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]i9-0-Si(CH3)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]2o-0-Si(CH3)3 wherein (Cft^Si-O-SiCCffrh (CH3)3Si-0-(CH3)2Si-0-Si(CH3)3 and/or (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]2-0-Si(CH3)3 are particularly preferred.

[000104] Clearly, mixtures of the aforementioned silicones may also be contained in the agents in accordance with the invention. Preferred silicones which are used in accordance with the invention have viscosities of from about 0.2 to about 2 mmV at 20°C, wherein silicones with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1 mm2s'1 are particularly preferred.

[000105] Particularly preferred agents in accordance with the invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicones. Such silicones may, for example, be described by the formula:

wherein in the above formula, R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue containing from approximately 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar residue with general formula -R'HZ, wherein R1 is a divalent linking group which is bonded to hydrogen and to the residue Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic aminofunctional residue which contains at least one aminofunctional group; “a” takes values in the range from approximately 0 to approximately 2, “b” takes values in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” is a number in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3, and x is a number in the

range from 1 to approximately 2000, preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 50 and most preferably, from approximately 3 to approximately 25, and y is a number in the range from approximately 20 to approximately 10000, preferably from approximately 125 to approximately 10000 and most preferably from approximately 150 to approximately 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group which is known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of residues represented by R include alkyl residues such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halohydrocarbon residues such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, as well as sulphur-containing residues such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl residue which contains 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. Examples of R1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, CH2CH2SCH2CH 2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2 CH2CH2-, CH2CH(CH3)C(0)0CH2-, -(CH2)3 CC(0)0CH2CH2-, -CeH 4CeH4-, -CeH 4CH2C6H4-; and (CH2)3C(0)SCH2CH2-.

[000106] Z is an organic aminofunctional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH2 )zNH2, wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH2)z(CH 2)zzNH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, wherein this structure comprises diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Most preferably, Z is a -NHCH2CH 2NH2 residue. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or -NX2, wherein each X is selected independently of Xi from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups with 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

[000107] Most preferably, Q is a polar aminofunctional residue with formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH 2. In the formulae, “a” takes values in the range from approximately 0 to approximately 2, “b” takes values in the range from approximately 2 to approximately 3, “a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” is a number in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3. The molar ratio of the RaQb SiO(4-a-b)/2 units to the RcSiO <4-c>/2 units is in the range from approximately 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:65 and most preferably from approximately 1:15 to approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones with the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may differ among the different silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

[000108] Preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain an aminofunctional silicone with formula (Si-II): [000109]

wherein: G is-H, a phenyl group, -OH, -0-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3,-CH2CH2CH3, -0-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -0-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -0-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -0-C(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3; a represents a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b represents a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers wherein the sum (m + n) is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between about 50 and about 150, wherein n preferably takes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149 and m preferably values from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10, R' is a monovalent residue selected from a) -Q-N(R”)-CH2-CH2-N(R”)2 b) -Q-N(R”)2 c) -Q-N+(R”)3A- d) -Q-N H(R )2 A- e) -Q-N+H2(R”)A- f) -Q-N(R”)-CH2-CH2-N+R”H2A-, wherein each Q represents a chemical linkage, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-,

C(CH3)2-, -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-, R” represents identical or different residues from the group formed by -H, phenyl, benzyl, CH2-CH(CH3)Ph, C1-20 alkyl residues, preferably -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide ormethosulphate.

[000110] Particularly preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone with formula (Si-Ila):

wherein m and n are numbers the sum (m + n) of which is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between from about 50 and about 150, wherein n preferably takes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149 and m preferably takes values from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10.

[000111] These silicones are designated as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature.

[000112] Agents in accordance with the invention which are also particularly preferred contain an aminofunctional silicone with formula (Si-IIb): [000113]

wherein R represents -OH, -O-CH3 or a -CH3 group and m, nl and n2 are numbers the sum (m + nl + n2) of which is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between from about 50 and about 150, wherein the sum (nl + n2) preferably takes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149 and m preferably takes values from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10.

[000114] These silicones are designated as amodimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature.

[000115] Irrespectively of which aminofunctional silicones are used, agents in accordance with the invention which are preferred are those which contain an aminofunctional silicone with an amine value of more than about 0.25 meq/g, preferably more than about 0.3 meq/g and in particular more than about 0.4 meq/g. “Amine value” here stands for milliequivalents of amine per gram of the aminofunctional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also be given in the units of mg KOH/g.

[000116] Preferred hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain, with respect to their weight, from about 0.01 % to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of aminofunctional silicone(s).

[000117] Particularly preferably, the agents in accordance with the invention contain aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxy group(s). Some special aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxy group(s) have proved to be particularly suitable in the agents in accordance with the invention. These will be described below.

[000118] Preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain, with respect to their weight, from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of at least one silicone with the following formula (Si-III):

in which a) m and n represent numbers which are selected in a manner such that the sum (n + m) is in the range from about 1 to about 1000, b) n is a number in the range from about 0 to about999 and m is a number in the range from from about 1 to about 1000, c) Rl, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxy group or a Cl- 4 alkoxy group, d) wherein at least one of the groups Rl to R3 represents a hydroxy group.

[000119] Further agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain, with respect to their weight, from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of at least one silicone with the following formula (Si-IV):

in which

a) p and q represent numbers which are selected in a manner such that the sum (p + q) is in the range from about 1 to about 1000, b) p is a number in the range from about 0 to about 999 and q is a number in the range from about 1 to about 1000, c) R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group.

[000120] The silicones with formulae (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ from each other in the grouping at the Si atom which carries the nitrogen-containing group: in formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups which are characterized by the indices m and n or p and q do not have to be present as blocks, but rather the individual units may also be distributed randomly, i.e. in formulae (Si-III) and (Si-IV) it is not necessary for each Rl-Si(CH3)2-group to be bonded to a -[0-Si(CH3)2]- group.

[000121] With regard to the desired effects, in the method in accordance with the invention, pre-processing agents which contain at least one silicone with formula (Si-V) have been shown to be particularly effective:

in which A represents a group -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3,-0-Si(CH3)20H ,-0-Si(CH3)20CH3, D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3,-Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20CH3, b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos that a) n > 0 and b + c > 0 b) at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is satisfied.

[000122] Hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention, which contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of at least one silicone with formula (Si-V):

in which A represents a group -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3,-0-Si(CH3)20H ,-0-Si(CH3)20CH3, D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3,-Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20CH3, b, n and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos that a) n > 0 and b + c > 0 b) at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is satisfied, are accordingly preferred in respect of the invention.

[000123] In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

[000124] Further particularly suitable silicones are 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted. Hair treatment agents which are particularly preferred contain, with respect to their weight, from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 5% by weight of at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone with formula (Si-VI):

in which A represents a structural unit (i) bonded via -0-

or an oligomeric or polymeric residue bonded via -0-, containing structural units with formula (i) or-OH, a) represents a linkage to the structural unit (i) or an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (0-bonded), B represents a group -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3,-0-Si(CH3)20H ,-0-Si(CH3)20CH3, D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3,-Si(CH3)20H, -Si(CH3)20CH3, a, b and c represent whole numbers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c >0, m, n and o represent whole numbers between 1 and 1000, with the proviso that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is satisfied.

[000125] Structural formula (Si-VI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be bonded directly to an end group B or D. Instead, in preferred formulae (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulae (Si-VI), a > 0 and b > 0, i.e. the terminal group B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy group. In formula (Si-VI) also, the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably randomly distributed. The silicones used in accordance with the invention which are represented by formula (Si-VI) may be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but they may also be dimethylsilylhydroxy- terminated on both sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side each. In the context of the

present invention, particularly preferred silicones which are used are selected from silicones in which: B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)3

B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20H B = -0-Si(CH3)20H and D = -Si(CH3)20CH3

B = -0-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH

B = -0-Si(CH3)20CH3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH

[000126] These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the properties of hair treated with the agents in accordance with the invention, and in particular to substantially improved protection during oxidizing treatment.

[000127] Again in formula (Si-VI), the residue A may represent: a structural unit (i) bonded via -Ο-, or an oligomeric or polymeric residue bonded via -Ο-, containing structural units with formula (i), or-OH.

[000128] In this respect, more precisely, formula (Si-VI) is one of formulae (Si-VIa), (Si-VIb) or (Si-VIc):

[000129] Irrespective of the type of the aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxy group(s) used, the agents in accordance with the invention preferably contain the silicone(s) in the form of an emulsion, particularly preferably in the form of a microemulsion.

[000130] It has been shown that the action of the silicones used in the agents in accordance with the invention can be enhanced still further when specific non-ionic components are also employed in the agents. In addition, these non-ionic components have positive effects on the stability of the agents upon storage. Non-ionic components which are particularly suitable in this regard are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol etc. Tridecanols have been shown to be particularly suitable; they are particularly advantageously incorporated into the agents in accordance with the invention. Particularly preferred agents in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain - with respect to their weight - from about 0.00001% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.0001% to about 3.5% by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.001% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight and in particular from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of branched, ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: trideceth-5) or a-iso-tridecyl-ω-hydroxypolyglycolether (INCI name: trideceth-10), or mixtures thereof.

[000131] The hair treatment agents preferably contain the substances described above in a cosmetically acceptable support. In the context of the invention, this preferably means an aqueous or hydroalcoholic support.

[000132] The cosmetic support preferably contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 70% by weight and particularly preferably at least 75% by weight of water.

[000133] Furthermore, the cosmetic support may contain from about 0.01% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 30% by weight and in particular from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of at least one alcohol.

[000134] Examples of suitable alcohols are ethanol, ethyldiglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1-hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols.

[000135] Hydrosoluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, benzyl alcohol as well as mixtures of these alcohols are more particularly preferred.

[000136] Advantageously for very good tolerance of the hair treatment agent in accordance with the invention by the skin (scalp), the latter has a slightly acidic pH.

[000137] It has been discovered that agents in accordance with the invention with a pH in the range 4.2 to 5.8 exhibit particularly good skin tolerance and are mild.

[000138] Thus, in a first preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention preferably have a pH in the range from about 4.2 to about 5.8, more preferably from about 4.25 to about 5.6, particularly preferably from about 4.3 to about 5.5, extremely preferably from about 4.35 to about 5.4 and particularly preferably from about 4.4 to about 5.3.

[000139] The hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain one or more paraffin oil(s) as a consistency enhancing component. Paraffin oils, preferably paraffin oils with the INCI name paraffinum liquidum, are oils which, at 20°C and with an ambient pressure of 1013 hPa, have a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa (0.02 mm Hg). The total quantity of the paraffin oil in the composition in accordance with the invention is preferably 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably 20% to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 30% to 40% by weight.

[000140] The hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain vegetable oils, vegetable butters and/or vegetable waxes. These vegetable oil components provide the hair with improved combability and manageability and enhance the gloss of the hair.

[000141] Suitable vegetable oil components include natural (vegetable) oils and/or butters which usually contain triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranthus seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan seed oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[000142] Preferred natural or vegetable waxes which may be used are camauba wax, beeswax and/or candelilla wax.

[000143] Particularly preferred vegetable oil components are (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranthus seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[000144] Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil and/or jojoba oil are especially particularly preferred.

[000145] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention preferably contain coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranthus seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan seed oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[000146] In this embodiment, particularly preferably, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention contain (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranthus seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[000147] The proportion by weight of the at least one vegetable oil, vegetable butter and/or vegetable wax with respect to the total weight of the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention is preferably 0.02% to 2.50% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% to 2.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0.04% to 1.50% by weight and in particular 0.05% to 1.00% by weight.

[000148] In addition to the essential and optional components, in a further preferred embodiment to further increase the conditioning properties of the agent, the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention may contain at least one further hair conditioning substance which may be selected from the group formed by: protein hydrolysates, vitamins, plant extracts and/or glycerin.

The term “protein hydrolysates” should be understood to mean mixtures of products which may be obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalysed digestion of proteins. Protein hydrolysates of vegetable, animal and/or marine origin may be used. Examples of protein hydrolysates are elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, marketed under the tradenames Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda). Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, for example soya, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates, are preferred. Such products are, for example, obtainable under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda). It is also possible to use cationic protein hydrolysates, wherein the basic protein hydrolysate may be derived from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from protein hydrolysates which are obtained biotechnologically. The protein hydrolysates forming the basis of the cationic derivatives may also be obtained from the corresponding proteins by means of a chemical process, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually produces a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 Dalton up to several thousand Dalton. Those cationic protein hydrolysates with a base protein fraction with a molecular weight of 100 up to 25000 Dalton, preferably 250 to 5000 Dalton, are preferred. Furthermore, the term “cationic protein hydrolysates” should also be understood to include quaternary amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quatemization of the protein hydrolysates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be derivatized even further. Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives and their INCI names and which are commercially available are as follows: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimopnium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HC1, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxyproypltrimonium hydrolyzed silk, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimonium hydroxyethyl hydrolyzed collagen, quatemium- 76 hydrolyzed collagen, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein.

[000149] The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolysate or protein hy drolysates with respect to the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably 0.01 % to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025% to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05% to 2% by weight.

[000150] Irrespective of the source (vegetable, animal, marine, etc), protein hydrolysates contain individual amino acids, oligopeptides and possibly polypeptides, depending on the degree of hydrolysis.

[000151] The term “suitable vitamins” should preferably be understood to mean the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors:

Vitamin A: substances described as belonging to vitamin A are retinol (vitamin Ai) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-carotene is the provitamin for retinols. Examples of components which are considered to be components of vitamin A are vitamin A acids and their esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, as well as their esters such as the palmitate and the acetate.

Vitamin B: the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, inter alia: vitamin Bi (thiamine) vitamin B2 (riboflavin) vitamin B3. This description usually includes the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. Particular derivatives of panthenol are the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual examples are panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethylether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid esters, glucosides or phosphates is preferable. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).

Vitamin F: the term “vitamin F” should usually be understood to mean fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H: the compound (3aS.4S, 6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valerian acid is described as vitamin H; it is now known by the trivial name of biotin.

[000152] Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are more particularly preferred.

[000153] The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), provitamin(s) and/or vitamin precursors) with respect to the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably 0.001% to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005% to 1% by weight and in particular 0.01% to 0.5% by weight.

[000154] The term “suitable plant extracts” should be understood to mean extracts which can be produced from parts of a plant. Usually, these extracts are produced by extraction from the whole plant. However, in individual cases, it may also be preferable to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and/or leaves of the vegetable. Extracts which are especially suitable are from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettles, hamamelis, hops, camomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, lychee, almonds, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemons, wheat, kiwi, melons, oranges, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, beech, mallow, meadowfoam seed, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, balm, yellow restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, echinacea purpurea, olea europea, boerhavia diffusa roots, foeniculum vulgaris and apim graveolens.

[000155] Extracts from green tea, stinging nettles, hamamelis, camomile, aloe vera, ginseng, echinacea purpurea, olea europea and/or boerhavia diffusa roots are particularly preferred for use in the compositions in accordance with the invention.

[000156] Water, alcohols as well as mixtures thereof may be used as extraction agents for the production of said plant extracts. The alcohols here include lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol; in particular, polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extraction agent and also as a mixture with water, are preferred. Vegetable extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1 have been shown to be particularly advantageous.

[000157] The plant extracts may be used both in their pure and also in diluted form. When used in a diluted form, they usually contain approximately 2 - 80% by weight of active substance and the extraction agent or mixture of extraction agents used to obtain it as the solvent.

[000158] The plant extracts may preferably be used in the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention (with respect to the total weight of the agent) in a quantity of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 7. 5% by weight and in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

[000159] Glycerin may also be added separately to the hair cleaning and conditioning agents in a quantity of up to 10% by weight (with respect to the total weight of the agent). However, it may also be a component of the hydroalcoholic support mentioned above.

[000160] It has been established that the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are also suitable for use as an antidandruff preparation.

[000161] The total weight of the antidandruff agents with respect to the total weight of the hair treatment agents may preferably be 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025% to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight and in particular 0.075% to 3% by weight.

[000162] Suitable antidandruff substances may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulphur, selenium sulphide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, stinging nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and/or arnica extracts.

[000163] Climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine are preferred.

Further examples of processing substances, auxiliary substances and additives which may preferably be contained in the hair treatment agents in accordance with the invention are as follows: moisturizers, fragrances, UV filters, thickeners such as gelatins or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, carob bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for example methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as, for example, bentonite or completely synthetic hydrocolloids such as, for example, polyvinyl alcohol, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps, structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, dimethylisosorbide, cyclodextrins, substances which improve fibrous structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose, colorants to colour the agent, substances such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, chelating agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanindiacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramides. The term “ceramides” should be understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amide of the sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (what are known as pseudo-ceramides), propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethylether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

[000164] The agents described are preferably used in a method for permanently shaping keratinous fibres, in particular human hair, in which initially, a styling agent comprising substance(s) which cleave disulphide bonds and methionine is applied to the keratinous fibres, the styling agent is allowed to act for a period Z1 and is then rinsed out. Optionally, a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent may be applied to the fibres and is then rinsed out again after being allowed to work for a period Z2.

[000165] If the method is to be used to produce curls and waves in straight hair, initially a styling agent containing substance(s) which cleave disulphide bonds and methionine is applied to the fibres, and rinsed out again after being allowed to work for a period Z1 and then dried if required. Next, a fixing agent which contains at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the fibres and rinsed out again after being allowed to work for a period Z2.

[000166] Necessary components of a fixing agent are an oxidizing agent, for example sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide and the usual stabilizers for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations. The pH of such aqueous H2O2 preparations which usually contain approximately 0.5% to 15% by weight, and when ready for use contain approximately 0.5% to 15% by weight of H2O2, is preferably 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted using inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid. Fixing agents based on bromates usually contain the bromate in concentrations of l%to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Fixing agents on an enzyme basis (for example peroxidases) which contain no or only small quantities of oxidizing agents, in particular H2O2, are also suitable. The fixing agents preferably contain at least 50% by weight of water.

[000167] If the method is to be used to straighten curly hair, firstly a styling agent containing substance(s) which split disulphide bonds and methionine is applied to the keratinous fibres, and is rinsed out again after being allowed to work for a period Z1.

[000168] In the method described for the production of curls and waves in straight hair or to straighten curly hair, auxiliary styling means may be used. Examples of auxiliary styling means are hair curlers or rods in the case of a permanent wave or a comb, a brush or a straightening board in the event of hair straightening.

[000169] When the auxiliary styling means, for example curlers, are used on the fibres in a permanent waving method over a longer period, then it is necessary to remove these auxiliary styling means after the styling agent has been allowed to work or after using the fixing agent. In this regard, it may be advantageous to leave the auxiliary styling means in the hair during the time Z2 for the styling agent to work on the hair, to remove them afterwards and then to apply a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent to the fibres once again and to rinse it out again after being allowed to work for a period Z3. This latter is known as the post-fixing step.

[000170] In both methods, during or after the end of the time for the styling agent to work, the keratinous fibres may also be shaped under the action of heat. Tn this regard, preferably, the keratinous fibres undergo a heat treatment using a heat source, wherein the heat source is at a temperature of from about 50°C up to about 200 °C, preferably from about 90°C to about 180°C and in particular from about 120°C to about 160°C. This is particularly the case when using curling tongs or straighteners.

[000171] Particularly preferred uses or methods are characterized in that the styling of the hair is straightening, preferably using straighteners. The term “straightening” should be understood to mean stretching curly hair along the longest spatial extent of the hair fibre. When using straighteners, a strand of hair is wound around an appropriately temperature-controlled curved body - for example a rod-shaped or tubular body- and after a period of time there - in particular from about 10 to about 30 seconds - is unrolled again.

[000172] In a preferred embodiment, the keratinous fibres are moistened before step (i). This can be accomplished by spraying the hair with a liquid, preferably with water.

Preferably, prior to step (i), the fibres are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then towel-dried. After the towel-drying step, the hair still feels damp.

[000173] Preferably, the working time Z1 is 60 minutes, more preferably from about 2 to about 50 minutes, particularly preferably from about 5 to about 40 minutes and more particularly preferred from about 10 to about 30 minutes.

[000174] The working time Z2 is also preferably from about 1 to about 60 minutes, more preferably from about 2 to about 50 minutes, particularly preferably from about 5 to about 40 minutes and more particularly preferably from about 10 to about 30 minutes. It is the same for the working time Z3.

[000175] In a further aspect, the invention provides amethod for the treatment of hair, in which an agent in accordance with the invention is applied to dry or damp hair, left there for a period of from about 30 to about 300 seconds and then rinsed out.

[000176] The agents in accordance with the invention produce a substantially enhanced reinforcement of the internal and external hair structure.

[000177] Thus, in a further aspect, the present invention provides the use of mixtures formed from: methionine, metal hydroxide (s) with formula (I) and/or (II) i.

(I) (2) in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH4+, i.

(II) (3) in which M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation, to reinforce the internal structure of the hair and to augment the hair conditioning action of hair treatment agents.

[000178] In the context of the invention, the term “structural reinforcement” should be understood to means a reduction of the damage to keratinous fibres by any type of

influence. In this regard, for example, restoration of the natural strength plays a vital role. Restructured fibres are, for example, characterized by an improved gloss, improved feel and by easier combability. In addition, they have optimized strength and elasticity. Physical evidence of successful structural reinforcement or restructuring can be physically observed as an increase in the melting point compared with damaged fibres (DSC measurements).

[000179] The statements made in respect of the agents in accordance with the invention apply mutatis mutandis to the preferred embodiments of the method in accordance with the invention and the use in accordance with the invention.

Claims

1. A hair treatment agent, containing - with respect to its weight - a) from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of methionine; b) from about 0 to about 10% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (I):

(I) in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NBC, c) from about 0 to about 20% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (II):

2. The hair treatment agent as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the agent is a two-phase agent which in phase 1 contains - with respect to the weight of the agent a) from about 0 to about 20% by weight of methionine b) from about 0 to about 10% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (I):

(I) in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH4+, c) from about 0 to about 10% by weight of at least one metal hydroxide with formula (II):

(Π) in which M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation, with the proviso that the sum of the quantities of the ingredients b) and c) is from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, and in phase 2 contains - with respect to the weight of the agent - d) from about 0 to about 20% by weight of methionine

e) from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight of guanidine carbonate, wherein the sum of the quantities of the ingredients a) and d) (= methionine) is from about 0.0005 to about 20% by weight.

3. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - a total quantity of from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.005% to about 7.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of methionine.

4. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - from about 0.0001% to about 4.5% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 4% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 3% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide.

5. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of magnesium hydroxide.

6. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - from about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.0005% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of calcium hydroxide.

7. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of cationic polymer(s), preferably from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1.5% by weight and in particular from about 0.15% to about 0.8% by weight of at least one polymer from the group formed by cationic cellulosic polymers and/or cationic guar derivatives.

8. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that in phase 2 the agent contains - with respect to the weight of the agent - from about 0.25% to about 45% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 35% by weight and in particular from about 1% to about 30% by weight of guanidine carbonate.

9. The hair treatment agent as claimed in one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent contains - with respect to its weight - from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.75% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 1 % to about 12% by weight and in particular from about 2% to about 10% by weight of fatty alcohol(s).

10. A hair treatment method, characterized in that an agent as claimed in one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to dry or damp hair, left there for a period of from about 30 to about 300 seconds and then rinsed out.

11. Use of mixtures of: a) methionine, b) metal hydroxide(s) with formula (I) and/or (II):

(I) in which M represents a monovalent alkali metal cation or NH4+,

(Π) in which M represents a divalent alkaline earth metal cation, to reduce damage to the internal structure of hair.