GB2570181A

GB2570181A - Structure-strengthening hair treatment agent with increased care effect

Info

Publication number: GB2570181A
Application number: GB1817209.8A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Scheunemann Volker; Schulze Zur Wiesche Erik
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2017-10-24
Filing date: 2018-10-23
Publication date: 2019-07-17
Anticipated expiration: 2038-10-23
Also published as: FR3072570B1; GB201817209D0; FR3072570A1; DE102017218982A1; GB2570181B

Abstract

A hair treatment agent containing (a) 0.0001 to 20% by weight methionine; (b) 0 to 5% by weight maleic acid; (c) 0 to 5% by weight succinic acid, with the proviso that the total amount of ingredients (b) and (c) is 0.001 to 10% by weight in relation to the total agent; (d) one or more hair care substance(s) selected from the group of a) cationic polymers, b) quaternary ammonium compounds, c) fatty alcohols and d) silicones, is provided. The cationic polymer may be a cationic cellulose polymer and/or cationic guar derivative. The agent may further comprise behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. The silicone may be an aminofunctional silicone. A method for the treatment of hair using said agent is outlined. Use of mixtures of (a) methionine; (b) maleic acid and/or succinic acid; (c) hair care substance selected from the group of a) cationic polymers, b) quaternary ammonium compounds, c) fatty alcohols and d) silicones to strengthen the inner hair structure and to increase the hair-conditioning effect of hair treatment agents is provided.

Description

STRUCTURE-STRENGTHENING HAIR TREATMENT AGENT WITH INCREASED CARE EFFECT

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The invention relates to hair treatment agents, in particular shampoos and what are known as conditioners, comprising an active substance combination for gentle and effective care of the hair.

BACKGROUND [0002] The structure of the human hair is influenced by external and internal factors.

External factors include in particular care products, frequency and intensity of hair washing, chemical influences (highlights, toning, dyeing, chlorinated water in swimming pools, etc.), mechanical influences (strong tension caused for example by a ponytail or chignon hairstyle, constant wearing of protective helmets), thermal influences (hot hairdryers, perms or also the influence of ultraviolet light, for example by constant exposure to the sun or by sunbeds). Internal factors include sufficient sleep, appropriate intake of fluids by sufficient drinking, balanced diet rich in vitamins, medical picture and the administration of certain medicaments.

[0003] A change to the hair structure during a lifetime can be triggered by a change to all of these factors, either individually or in combination. Usually, the change tends to occur from strong to fine hair, from glossy to dull, from smooth, silky hair to dull, strawlike hair, from rather voluminous hair to thin hair lying flat against the scalp, from voluminous, bouncy hair to greasy, lank hair, rather than vice versa.

[0004] Differences between men and women lie in the hair thickness and in the susceptibility to deficiencies in care. Since men generally have shorter hair than women, deficiencies in care have a much less noticeable effect on the hair structure than in women.

[0005] Minor changes to the hair structure are experienced by everyone during their lifetime. The more gently the hair is treated, the longer a normal, healthy hair structure is maintained.

[0006] In order to compensate for structural damage, it has long been routine to subject hair to a special secondary treatment. Here, the hair is usually treated with special active substances, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, in the form of a rinse. As a result of this treatment the combability, hold, and the volume of the hair are improved, depending on formulation, and the rate of splitting is reduced. These effects can be brought about “externally of the structure”, for example by the depositing of structures on the hair surface (cuticula), or “internally of the structure” by incorporation of substances in the cortex. The internal structural strengthening of the keratin fibres is of particular importance here, since it is longer-lasting and more sustainable than outer structural strengthening.

BRIEF SUMMARY [0007] Aspects and embodiments of the invention are defined in the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION [0008] The object of the present invention is to provide hair treatment agents which lead to a strengthening of the internal hair structure and to an increase in the hairconditioning effect of hair treatment agents and thus improve the combability, hold, and volume of the hair and reduce the rate of splitting.

[0009] It has now been found that a special active substance combination leads to a significantly improved strengthening of the internal structure.

[0010] A first subject of the present invention is constituted by hair treatment agents containing - in relation to their weight -

a) from about 0.0001 to about 20 % by weight methionine;

b) from about 0 to about 5 % by weight maleic acid;

c) from about 0 to about 5 % by weight succinic acid with the proviso that the total amount of ingredients b) and c) is from about 0.001 to about 10 % by weight in relation to the total agent;

d) one or more haircare substance(s) selected from the group of

a. cationic polymers

b.

c.

d.

quaternary ammonium compounds fatty alcohols silicones.

[0011] Hair treatment agents in the sense of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair rinses, haircare treatments, hair masks, hair tonics, perm fixing solutions, colouring shampoos, hair dyes, hair setting products, hair smoothing products, hairstyling preparations, blow-dry lotions, styling mousses, hair gels, hair wax, or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that men in particular often tend to avoid using multiple different agents and/or multiple application steps, agents that a man will apply anyway are preferred. Preferred agents are therefore shampoos, conditioning agents or hair tonics.

[0012] The hair treatment agents contain methionine. This is preferably used within narrow quantity ranges, wherein preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those which contain - in relation to their weight - a total quantity of from about 0.0005 to about 15 % by weight, preferably from about 0.001 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.005 to about 7.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight methionine.

[0013] As further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention contain maleic acid and/or succinic acid. Agents according to the invention can therefore contain exclusively maleic acid exclusively succinic acid or both maleic acid and succinic acid.

The total amount of these two substances is - in relation to the total agent - from about 0.001 to about 10 % by weight.

[0014] Regardless of which of the three above-mentioned possibilities is provided in a hair treatment agent according to the invention, hair treatment agents according to the invention that contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.0001 to about 4.5 % by weight, preferably from about 0.0005 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from about

0.001 to about 3 % by weight and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight maleic acid are preferred.

[0015] Hair treatment agents that are likewise preferred in accordance with the invention contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.0001 to about 4.5 % by weight, preferably from about 0.0005 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.001 to about 3 % by weight and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight succinic acid.

[0016] The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain one or more haircare substance(s) selected from the group of

a. cationic polymers

b. quaternary ammonium compounds

c. fatty alcohols

d. silicones.

[0017] The agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one cationic polymer.

[0018] Regardless of which cationic polymer(s) is/are contained, hair treatment agents according to the invention that contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight cationic polymer are preferred.

[0019] Cationic polymers that can be used with preference in accordance with the invention will be described hereinafter:

[0020] Homopolymers of general formula (Gl-I),

R¹

I

-[CH2-C-]_nX- (Gl-I)

I

CO-O-(CH₂)m-N⁺R²R³R⁴ in which R¹⁼ -H or -CH3, R², R³ and R⁴ independently of one another are selected from Cl-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting substantially of the monomer units specified in formula (Gl-I) and non-ionogenic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Among these polymers, those that are preferred in accordance with the invention are those for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R¹ stands for a methyl group

R², R³ and R⁴ stand for methyl groups

- m has the value 2.

[0021] For example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate, and acetate ions are potential physiologically acceptable counter ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred.

[0022] A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquatemium-37, cross-linked if desired. Such products are commercially obtainable for example under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (Ethnichem). The crosslinking, if desired, can be performed with the aid of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bisacrylamide, diallylether, polyallylpolyglycerylether, or allylethers of sugars or sugar derivatives, such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred cross-linking agent.

[0023] The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion having a polymer content of not less than about 30 % by weight. Such polymer dispersions are commercially obtainable under the names Salcare® SC 95 (approx. 50 % polymer content; further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl poly oxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-l-trideceth-6)) and Salcare® SC 96 (approx. 50 % polymer content; further components: mixture of diesters of the propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1 -Trideceth-6))..

[0024] Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) contain, as nonionogenic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid Ci-4 alkylester and methacrylic acid Ci-4 alkylester. Among these non-ionogenic monomers, acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be cross-linked, similarly to the homo polymers described above. A copolymer that is preferred in accordance with the invention is the cross-linked acrylamide methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride polymer. Copolymers in which the monomers are present in a ratio by weight of approximately 20:80 are commercially obtainable as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare® SC-92.

[0025] Further preferred cationic polymers are for example

- quatemised cellulose derivatives, as are commercially obtainable under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®. The compounds Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quatemised cellulose derivatives, cationic alkylpolyglycosides,

- cationised honey, for example the trade product Honeyquat® 50,

- cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia®Guar and Jaguar®,

- polymer dimethyldiallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products obtainable commercially under the names Merquat®100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quatemised derivatives of dialkylamino alkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethylsulfate, quatemised vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are commercially obtainable under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755, vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quatemised polyvinyl alcohol,

- and the polymers known under the names Polyquatemium 2, Polyquatemium 17, Polyquatemium 18 and Polyquatemium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

[0026] The polymers known under the names Polyquatemium-24 (trade product, for example Quatrisoft® LM 200) equally can be used as cationic polymers. The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone as are obtainable as trade products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 1011, Gafquat®HS 110, Luviquat®8155 and Luviquat® MS 370 likewise can be used in accordance with the invention.

[0027] Cationic protein hydrolysates can also be used as cationic polymers, wherein preferred agents contain one or more cationic protein hydrolysates from the group Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HC1, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, and Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

[0028] Cationic polysaccharide polymers are particularly preferably used as cationic polymers in accordance with the invention.

[0029] Cationic polysaccharide polymers increase the nourishing power of the hair treatment agents according to the invention (in particular the efficacy of the hair treatment agents according to the invention (in particular the efficacy of the agents according to the invention against hair breakage). Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers can be selected from cationic cellulose compounds and/or from cationic guar derivatives.

[0030] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s) - in relation to the weight of the agents - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulose polymers and/or cationic guar derivatives.

[0031] To summarise, hair treatment agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention are characterised in that they contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of cationic polymer(s), preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulose polymers and/or cationic guar derivatives.

[0032] Cationic cellulose compounds in the sense of the invention are those that carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Cellulose is constructed from beta-l,4-glycosidically linked D-glucopyranose units and forms unbranched water-insoluble chains. Chemical substituents that bind to the cellulose skeleton and do not count as native cellulose since they were introduced subsequently, for example by chemical synthesis, are defined as “side chains” of a cellulose.

[0033] What are preferred are quatemised cellulose polymers originating from hydroxy(C2-C4)alkyl celluloses, particularly preferably from hydroxyethyl celluloses.

[0034] Such polymers are known to a person skilled in the art and are commercially available from various companies. The cationic cellulose derivatives known under the INCI names Polyquatemium-4, Polyquatemium-10, Polyquatemium-24, Polyquatemium67 and/or Polyquatemium-72 are particularly preferred. Polyquatemium-10, Polyquatemium-24 and/or Polyquatemium-67 are very particularly preferred, and Polyquatemium-10 is preferred in particular.

[0035] Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s), - in relation to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of at least one polymer from the group of Polyquatemium-4, Polyquaternium10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and/or Polyquaternium-72.

[0036] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s), - in relation to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight Polyquaternium-10.

[0037] Suitable cationic guar derivatives in the sense of the invention are cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyl trimethylammonium guar and/or cationic hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium guar with mean molecular weights between from about 100,000 and about 2,000,000 daltons. The cationic guar polymers known under the 1NC1 name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride with a (weightaverage) molecular weight between from about 200,000 and about 1,600,000 daltons are particularly preferred. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least about 0.4 meq/g, preferably at least about 0.5 meq/g and in particular at least about 0.6 meq/g. Their nitrogen content lies preferably in the range of from about 1.1 to about 1.8 % by weight (in relation to their total weight).

[0038] Cationic guar derivatives that are known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride are known to a person skilled in the art and are obtainable from various providers for example under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar, NHance® and/or Jaguar®.

[0039] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as cationic polysaccharide polymer(s), - in relation to the weight of the agent - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0040] Hair treatment agents according to the invention can preferably contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound, wherein preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are selected from

- alkyltrimcthylammonium chlorides with preferably from about 10 to about carbon atoms in the alkyl group and/or

- dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides with preferably from about 10 to about carbon atoms in the alkyl group and/or

- trialkylmethylammonium chlorides with preferably from about 10 to about carbon atoms in the alkyl group and/or

- cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and/or

- stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and/or

- behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and/or

- distearyldimethylammonium chloride and/or

- lauryldimethylammonium chloride and/or

- lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and/or

- tricetylmethylammonium chloride

- Quatemium-27 and/or

- Quatemium-83.

[0041] Hair treatment agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight of cationic surfactant(s).

[0042] Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are selected from compounds of the following formula (IV)

R2 l ₊

R1— N—R4

I

R3

A (IV), in which at most three groups R1 to R4 stand independently of one another for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group with from about 1 to about 4 C atoms, at least one group R1 to R4 stands for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl chain with from about 8 to about 30 C atoms, and A means a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

[0043] In preferred compounds according to (IV) two or three groups R1 to R4 stand for a methyl or an ethyl group, one group or two groups R1 to R4 stands/stand for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl chain with from about 14 to about 26 C atoms, and A stands for a halide ion, a sulfate ion of general formula RSO3, in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups with from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or stands for an anionic group of an organic acid, such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acetic acid.

[0044] More preferred are compounds according to formula (IV) in which

- three groups R1 to R4 stand for a methyl group, one group R1 to R4 stands for a cetyl, palmityl, stearyl, arachidyl or a behenyl group, and

- A stands for a chloride or a methosulfate ion.

[0045] The at least one compound according to formula (IV) is particularly preferably selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, behentrimethylammonium chloride and/or behentrimethylammonium methosulfate. These compounds can be used in the agents according to the invention individually or in combination, wherein the total amount of compounds of formula (I) in the agent is preferably at most about 10 % by weight, and wherein the specified quantity relates to the total weight of the agent according to the invention.

[0046] An agent according to the invention particularly preferably contains, as cationic surfactant, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride. Here, preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those that contain - in relation to their weight - from about

0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0047] To summarise, preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain - in relation to the weight of the agent - from about 0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight of cationic surfactant(s), preferably from about 0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0048] The hair treatment agents can also contain, as cationic surfactant, at least one esterquat.

“Esterquats” in the sense of the present invention are preferably understood to mean compounds of the following formula (V)

R6 l ₊

R5--N—X—R8 A ^R7 (V), in which the groups R5, R6 and R7, independently of one another, can be the same or different and have the following meaning:

a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group with from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, or a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, or an aryl or alkylaryl group, for example phenyl or benzyl, or (- X - R8), with the provision that at most 2 of the groups R5, R6 or R7 can stand for (- X - R8), wherein

X has the following meaning:

-(CH2)n- with n = from about 1 to about 20, preferably n = from about 1 to about 10 and particularly preferably n = from about 1 to about 5, or

-(CH2-CHR9-O)n- with n = from about 1 to about 200, preferably from about 1 to about 100, more preferably from about 1 to about 50, and particularly preferably from about 1 to about 20, and with R9 in in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, or a hydroxyalkylene group with one to four carbon atoms, which can be branched or unbranched, and which contains one and at most 3 hydroxyl groups, and wherein R8 has the following meaning:

R10-O-CO-, in which R10 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which optionally also can be oxethylated with from about 1 to about 100 ethylene oxide units and/or from about 1 to about 100 propylene oxide units, or

R11-CO-, in which R11 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one hydroxyl group, and which optionally also can be oxethylated with from about 1 to about 100 ethylene oxide units and/or from about 1 to about 100 propylene oxide units, and in which A stands for a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, one of the groups R5, R6 or R7 preferably stands for the group (- X - R8), R8 stands for a non-ethoxylated fatty acid group, such as for a palmitic, stearic, arachidic or a behenic acid group, in particular a stearic acid group, and A stands for a halide ion, a sulfate ion of general formula RSO3, in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups with from about 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, or for an anionic group of an organic acid, such as maleic acid, fumaric acid, oxalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acetic acid, in particular for a chloride ion or for a methosulfate ion.

[0049] The esterquats suitable for the agents according to the invention are preferably selected from at least one of the products sold under the trade names Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare® and Akypoquat®. Specific examples of esterquats that are particularly suitable in accordance with the invention are the products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE 18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131.

[0050] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are those that contain, as esterquat, at least one of the compounds known under the INCI names Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Distearoylethyl Hydroxy ethylmonium Chloride. Particularly preferred is Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, which can be contained in the agents according to the invention in a preferred amount of from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 8 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.75 to about 6 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, wherein the specified amounts relate to the total weight of the agent according to the invention.

[0051] The one or more esterquats can be added to the agents according to the invention both individually and in a mixture with other nourishing active substances.

[0052] On account of the improved handling and processing properties, it can be advantageous if the one or more esterquats - in particular Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate - is (are) added to the agents according to the invention as an active substance mixture. A particularly suitable example of an active substance mixture of this kind is obtainable for example from the company BASF under the trade name Dehyquart® F 75 (Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol).

[0053] Preferred hair treatment agents contain at least one fatty alcohol.

[0054] Fatty alcohols are aliphatic, long-chain, monovalent primary alcohols with hydrocarbon groups having from about 6 to about 30, preferably from about 6 to about 22, carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon groups can be saturated or monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. Fatty alcohols that can be used with preference within the scope of the present invention are preferably selected from 1-hexanol, 1-heptanol, 1-octanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), 1-tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol)l, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-heptadecanol (margaryl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-eisosanol (arachidyl alcohol), 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol), 1-tetracosanol (lignoceryl alcohol), 1hexacosanol (ceryl alcohol), 1-octacosanol (montanyl alcohol), 1-triacontanol (melissyl alcohol), 67.s'-9-hcxadcccn-1-ol (palmitoleyl alcohol), czs-9-octadecen-l-ol (oleyl alcohol), tra«5-9-octadecen-l-ol (elaidyl alcohol), c/.s-l l-octadcccn-l-ol. 6,9,12-octadecatrien-l-ol (γ-linolenyl alcohol) and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Preferred hair treatment agents are characterised in that they contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.5 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.75 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 10 % by weight of fatty alcohol(s).

[0056] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterised in that they contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.1 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 8 % by weight of fatty alcohol(s) of formula (III) H3C-(CH₂)k-CH₂-OH (III), in which k stands for integers of from about 4 to about 28, preferably of from about 6 to about 24, more preferably of from about 8 to about 22 and in particular for about 10, about 12, about 14, about 16, about 18 or about 20.

[0057] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain in relation to their weight - from about 0.1 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 8 % by weight of alcohol(s) from the group 1-dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1docosanol (behenyl alcohol), wherein the amounts relate to the total amount of the aforesaid fatty alcohols in the composition.

[0058] Very particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.1 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 10 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 8 % by weight of alcohols from the group 1hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), wherein the amounts relate to the total amount of the aforesaid fatty alcohols in the composition.

[0059] The hair treatment agents preferably contain at least one silicone, which makes the hair pleasant to the touch and further intensifies the structure-strengthening effect of the combination according to the invention.

[0060] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain at least one silicone which is selected from:

(i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which are volatile or non-volatile, straight-chained, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes which in their general structure contain one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per)fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

l) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear poly siloxane (A)-polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the type (AB)_n withn > 3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers with non-silicone-containing, organic parent structure which consist of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers containing no silicone, onto which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and also optionally at least at one chain end;

(v) grafted silicone polymers with polysiloxane parent structure, onto which nonsilicone-containing organic monomers have been grafted, which comprise a polysiloxane main chain onto which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of the ends thereof;

or mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight of silicone(s).

[0062] Preferred silicones will be described hereinafter.

[0063] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain at least one silicone of formula Si-I (CH3)3Si-[O-Si(CH3)2]x-O-Si(CH₃)3 (Si-I), in which x stands for a number from about 0 to about 100, preferably from about 0 to about 50, more preferably from about 0 to about 20 and in particular from about 0 to about 10.

[0064] These silicones are referred to in accordance with INCI nomenclature as DIMETHICONES. Within the scope of the present invention, the following compounds:

(CH₃)3Si-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-O-(CH3)2Si-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH₃)2Si]2O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]3-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]4-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]₅-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]6-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH₃)₃Si-[O-(CH₃)2Si]7-O-Si(CH₃)₃ (CH₃)₃Si-[O-(CH₃)2Si]8-O-Si(CH₃)₃ (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]9-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[0-(CH3)2Si]io-0-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]n-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]13-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]15-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]17-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]19-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]12-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]14-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]16-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]18-O-Si(CH₃)3 (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]20-O-Si(CH₃)3 are preferably used as silicone of formula Si-I, wherein (CfEfiSi—O-Si(CH3)3, (CH3)3Si-O(CH3)2Si-O-Si(CH3)3 and/or (CH3)3Si-[O-(CH3)2Si]2-O-Si(CH3)3 are/is particularly preferred.

[0065] Of course, mixtures of the above-mentioned silicones can also be contained in the agents according to the invention. Preferred silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention have viscosities at about 20°C of from about 0.2 to about 2 mm²s'¹, wherein silicones with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1 mm²s'¹ are particularly preferred.

[0066] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicones. Such silicones can be described for example by the formula

M(RaQbSiO(4-a-b)/2)x(RcSiO(4-c)/2)yM wherein in the above formula T is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group with from about 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of general formula -R¹ HZ, in which R¹ is a bivalent, linking group which is bound to hydrogen and the group Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic aminofunctional group containing at least one aminofunctional group; a assumes values in the range of from approximately 0 to approximately 2, b assumes values in the range of from approximately 1 to approximately 3, a + b is less than or equal to about 3, and c is a number in the range of from approximately 1 to approximately 3, and x is a number in the range of from about 1 to approximately 2,000, preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 50 and most preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 25, and y is a number in the range of from approximately 20 to approximately 10,000, preferably from approximately 125 to approximately 10,000 and most preferably from approximately 150 to approximately 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl groups such as vinyl, halogenvinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, halogenallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl groups such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl groups, benzyl groups, halogen hydrocarbons, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; with R preferably being an alkyl group containing from about 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, and R most preferably being methyl. Examples of R¹include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, OCH2CH2-, -OCH2 CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH₃)C(O)OCH2-, -(CH₂)3 CC(O)OCH₂CH2-, -CeH rCeHr-, -C6H4CH2C6H4; and -(CH2)3C(O)SCH₂CH2-.

[0067] Z is an organic aminofunctional group containing at least one functional amino group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH2 jzNEE, in which z is about 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH2)z(CH 2)zzNH, in which both z and zz independently are about 1 or more, wherein this structure comprises diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH2CH2NH2 group. Another possible formula for Z is - N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or -NX2, in which each X of X2 is selected independently from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups with from about 1 to about 12 carbon atoms, and zz is about 0.

[0068] Q is most preferably a polar amine functional group of formula CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formulas, “a” assumes values in a range of from approximately 0 to approximately 2, “b” assumes values in a range of from approximately 2 to approximately 3, “a” + ”b” is less than or equal to about 3, and “c” is a number in a range of from approximately 1 to approximately 3. The molar ratio of RaQb SiO(4-a-b)/2 units to the RcSiO <4-c)/2 units lies in a range of from approximately 1:2 to about 1:65, preferably from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:65, and most preferably from approximately 1:15 to approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula is/are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula are different in the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

[0069] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain an aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-II)

R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG₃-a-R'a (Si-II), in which:

- G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-

CH2CH2CH3,-CH2CH₂CH3, -O-CH(CH₃)2, -CH(CH₃)2, -OCH2CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH₂CH(CH3)2, -CH₂CH(CH3)2, O-CH(CH3)CH₂CH3, -CH(CH3)CH₂CH3, -O-C(CH₃)3, -C(CH₃)3 ;

- a stands for a number between from about 0 and about 3, in particular about 0;

- b stands for a number between from about 0 and about 1, in particular about 1,

- m and n are numbers of which the sum (m + n) is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between from about 50 and about 150, wherein n preferably assumes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149 and m preferably assumes values from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10,

- R' is a monovalent group selected from

-Q-N(R)-CH2-CH₂-N(R)2

-Q-N(R)2

-Q-N⁺(R)₃A21 o -Q-N⁺H(R)2Aο -Q-N⁺H2(R)Aο -Q-N(R)-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺RH₂A-, wherein each Q stands for a chemical bond, -CH₂-, -CH₂-CH₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂, -C(CH₃)₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₂-, -CH₂C(CH₃)₂-, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₂-,

R stands for the same or different groups from the group comprising -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)Ph, der Ci-₂o alkyl groups, preferably -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH3)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, C(CH₃)₃, and A represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

[0070] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-IIa) (CH₃)₃Si-[O-Si(CH₃)₂]n[OSi(CH₃)]m-OSi(CH₃)₃ (Si-IIa),

I

CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂NH(CH₂)₂NH₂ in which m and n are numbers of which the sum (m + n) is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between from about 50 and about 150, wherein n preferably assumes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably assumes value from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10.

[0071] These silicones are called Trimethylsilylamodimethicones in accordance with the INCI declaration. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are also those that contain an aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-IIb)

R-[Si(CH₃)₂-O]ni[Si(R)-O]m-[Si(CH₃)₂]n₂-R (Si-IIb),

I (CH₂)₃NH(CH₂)₂NH₂ in which R stands for -OH, -O-CH3 or a -CH3 groups and m, nl and n2 are numbers of which the sum (m + nl + n2) is between from about 1 and about 2000, preferably between from about 50 and about 150, wherein the sum (nl + n2) preferably assumes values from about 0 to about 1999 and in particular from about 49 to about 149, and m preferably assumes values from about 1 to about 2000, in particular from about 1 to about 10.

[0072] These silicones are referred to as Amodimethicones in accordance with the INCI declaration.

[0073] Regardless of which aminofunctional silicones are used, agents according to the invention that contain an aminofunctional silicone of which the amine value is above about 0.25 meq/g, preferably above about 0.3 meq/g, and in particular above about 0.4 meq/g, are preferred. The amine value stands for the milli-equivalent amine per gram of aminofunctional silicone. It can be determined by titration and can also be specified in the unit mg KOH/g.

[0074] Agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention are characterised in that they contain—in relation to their weight— from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight of aminofunctional silicone(s).

[0075] The agents according to the invention particularly preferably contain aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxyl group(s). Some specific aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxyl group(s) have proven to be particularly suitable in the agents according to the invention. These will be described further below.

[0076] Agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention are characterised in that they contain, in relation to their weight, from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, of at least one silicone of the following formula (Si-III)

o—Si — <ch₂)₃

NH

- NH₂ p

-O—Si—r₃ ch₃ (Si-Ill) m

in which

- m and m mean numbers which are selected so that the sum (n + m) lies in a range of from about 1 to about 1000,

- n is a number in the range of from about 0 to about 999, and m is a number in the range of from about 1 to about 1000,

Rl, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, mean a hydroxyl group or a Cl-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups Rl to R3 means a hydroxyl group.

[0077] Further agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention are characterised in that they contain, in relation to their weight, from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, of at least one silicone of the formula below (Si-IV)

in which

- p and q mean numbers which are selected so that the sum (p + q) lies in a range of from about 1 to about 1000,

- p is a number in the range of from about 0 to about 999, and q is a number in the range of from about 1 to about 1000,

R1 and R2, which are different, mean a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R2 means a hydroxyl group.

[0078] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ by the grouping at the Si atom, which carries the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 means a hydroxyl group or Cl-4 alkoxy group, whereas the group in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groupings, which are characterised by the indices m and n and also p and q, do not have to be present as blocks, but rather the individual units can also be randomly distributed, i.e. in the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) each Rl-Si(CH3)2 group is not necessarily bonded to a -[O-Si(CH3)2] grouping.

[0079] In the method according to the invention, pre-treatment agents that are particularly effective in respect of the desired effects have proven to be those that contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-V):

ch₃ ch₃ ch₃ λ—

CH₃

-° ch₃

(Si-V), in which stands for a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH ,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, stands for a group -H, -Si(CH3)3,-Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, stand for integers between from about 0 and about 1000, b, n and c with the provisions

- n > 0 and b + c > 0 at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is met.

[0080] Agents according to the invention that contain, in relation to their weight, from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, of at least one silicone of formula (Si-V) ch₃ ch₃ ch₃

Si-O^D

CH₃

- n > 0 and b + c > 0

- at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is met, are therefore preferred in accordance with the invention.

[0081] In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they are not necessarily block copolymers.

[0082] Further particularly preferred silciones are 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted. Agents according to the invention which, in relation to their weight, contain from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, of at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (Si-VI),

in which

A stands for a structural unit (i) bonded via an -0ch₃ ^CH3 ΖΛ (i) or for an oligomeric or polymeric group bonded via an -0- and containing structural units of the formula (i), or stands for -OH, * stands for a bond to the structural unit (i) or stands for an end group B (Sibonded) or D (O-bonded),

B stands for a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH ,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3, D stands for a group -H, -Si(CH3)3,-Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, a, b and c stand for integers between from about 0 and about 1000, with the provision a + b + c > 0 m, n and o stand for integers between from about 1 and about 1000, with the provision that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is met, are particularly preferred.

[0083] The structural formula (Si-VI) is intended to mean that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to an end grouping B or D respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a > 0 or b > 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a > 0 and b > 0, i.e. the end grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (Si-VI) as well, the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably randomly distributed. The silicones used in accordance with the invention presented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated at two ends or dimethylsilylhydroxyterminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated at one end. Silicones used with particular preference within the scope of the present invention arc selected from silicones in which

B = -O-Si(CH₃)2OH

B = -O-Si(CH₃)3 and

B =-O-Si(CH₃)2OCH3 and and D = -Si(CH3)3 and D=-Si(CH₃)2OH and D=-Si(CH₃)2OCH3

D = -Si(CH3)₂OH

D = -Si(CH3)₂OH.

[0084] These silicones lead to enormous improvements of the hair properties of the hair treated using the agents according to the invention, and in particular lead to a significantly improved protection in the case of oxidative treatment.

In formula (Si-VI) as well, the group A can stand

- for a structural unit (i) bonded via an -0-, or

- for an oligomeric or polymeric group bonded via an -O- and containing structural units of formula (i),

- or for -OH.

[0085] Formula (Si-VI) is thus rendered more precisely as one of the formulas (Si-VIa), (Si-VIb) or (Si-VIc):

VIb)

[0086] Regardless of the type of used aminofunctional silicone(s) with terminal hydroxyl group(s), the agents according to the invention contain the silicone(s) preferably in the form of an emulsion, particularly preferably in the form of a microemulsion.

[0087] It has been found that the effect of the silicones used in the agents according to the invention can be increased further still if certain non-ionic components are also used in the agents. In addition, these non-ionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the agents. Non-ionic components which are particularly suitable here are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol etc. Ethoxylated tridecanols have proven to be particularly suitable and are preferably incorporated into the agents according to the invention. Agents that are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are characterised in that they contain—in relation to their weight— from about 0.00001 to about 5 % by weight, preferably from about 0.0001 to about 3.5 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.001 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 1 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.1 to about 0.5 % by weight of branched ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: Trideceth-5) or a-iso-tridecyl-co-hydroxy polyglycol ether (INCI name: Trideceth-10) or mixtures thereof.

[0088] The hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain further ingredients, wherein they particularly preferably contain one surfactant or a plurality of surfactants. Here, anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants and optionally non-ionic surfactants have proven to be of value in hair cleansing agents, whereas cationic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s) and optionally non-ionic surfactants is/are used primarily in haircare agents.

[0089] Hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one anionic and/or amphoteric and/or non-ionic surfactant.

[0090] All anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention. They are characterised by an anionic group rendering them soluble in water, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having approximately 8 to about 30 C atoms. Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups, and hydroxyl groups can additionally be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are as follows, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts with from about 2 to about 4 C atoms in the alkanol group:

- linear and branched fatty acids with from about 8 to about 30 C atoms (soaps),

- ether carboxylic acids of formula R-O-(CH2-CH2O)_X-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with from about 8 to about 30 C atoms and x = 0 or is from about 1 to about 16,

- acylsarcosides with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

- acyltaurides with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

- acylisethionates with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

- linear alkane sulfonates with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms,

- linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms,

- alpha-sulfofatty acid ethyl esters of fatty acids with from about 8 to about 30 C atoms,

- acylglutamates of formula (T-I),

XOOC-CH2CH2CH-COOX (T-I)

I

HN-COR¹ in which R'CO stands for a linear or branched acyl group with from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms and about 0, about 1, about 2 or about 3 double bonds and X stands for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanol ammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which derive from fatty acids with from about 6 to about 22, preferably from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, such as C12/14 or C12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and/or stearic acid, in particular sodium-N-cocoyl- and sodium-N-stearoyl-Lglutamate, esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of general formula (T-II),

X

I

HO — C — COOR¹ (T-II)

I

Y — CH— COOR² in which X=H or a -CH2COOR group, Y=H or an -OH with the provision that Y=H when X=-CH2C00R, R, R'and R² independently of one another mean a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a group Z originating from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C6-Cis) alkylpolysaccharides with from about 1 to about 6 monomer saccharide units and/or the etherified aliphatic (C6Ci6) hydroxyalkylpolyols with from about 2 to about 16 hydroxyl groups, with the provision that at least one of the groups R, R¹ or R² is a group Z, esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (T-III),

H2C — COOR¹ (T-III)

I

M^(n+/n)O₃S — CH— COOR² in which M^(n+/n) for n = 1 is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium-organic base, and for n=2 is an alkaline earth metal cation, R'and R² independently of one another mean a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammoniumorganic base, or a group Z which originates from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C6-Cis) alkylpolysaccharides with from about 1 to about 6 monomer saccharide units and/or etherified aliphatic (C6-C16) hydroxyalkylpolyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, with the provision that at least one of the groups R¹ or R² is a group Z, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkyl esters with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 oxyethyl groups, alkylsulfates and alkylpolyglycolether sulfates of formula R-(O-CH2-CH2)x-OSC>3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with from about 8 to about 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 - 12, mixed surface-active hydroxy sulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which represent addition products of approximately 2 to about 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with CT-22 fatty alcohols, alkyl and/or alkenylether phosphates, sulphated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

[0091] Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, in each case with a linear or branched acyl group with from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms and about 1, about 1, about 2 or about 3 double bonds, which is selected in particularly preferred embodiments from an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl group, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid, or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate and ether carboxylic acids with from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to about 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters with from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 ethoxy groups.

[0092] More preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts with from about 10 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to about 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono and dialkyl esters with from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono alkyl polyoxy ethyl esters with from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and from about 1 to about 6 oxy ethyl groups.

[0093] Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the alkali or ammonium salts of laurylether sulfates with a degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 4 EO.

[0094] Preferred hair treatment agents contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.5 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.75 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 10 % by weight of anionic surfactant(s).

[0095] Hair treatment agents according to the invention that are preferred in particular are characterised in that they contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.5 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.75 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12 % by weight and in particular from about 2 to about 10 % by weight of alkyl(ether)sulfates of general formula R-(OCH2-CH2)n-OSC>3X, in which R means a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with from about 8 to about 24 C atoms, n means the number 0 or from about 1 to about 12, and X means an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanol ammonium ion.

[0096] Instead of anionic surfactant or in addition thereto, the hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one non-ionic surfactant. Surfactants that have both a negatively and a positively charged functional group are considered to be amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants.

[0097] Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are what are known as the betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the coco alkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example the coco acyl amino propyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines with in each case from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coco acyl aminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0098] Further examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylamino butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids with in each case approximately 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are Ncoco alkyl amino propionate, coco acylaminoethylamino propionate and C12 - Ci8 acyl sarcosine.

[0099] Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.3 to about 10 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.75 to about 6 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight of amphoteric surfactant(s).

[0100] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterised in that they contain the amphoteric surfactant(s) from the groups of N-alkylglycines,

N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines,

N-alkylsarcosines,

2-alkylaminopropionic acids with in each case approximately 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids with in each case approximately 8 to about 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,

N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylamino ethylamino propionate

C12- Cis acylsarcosine,

N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut acylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline with in each case from about 8 to about 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate the compounds known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine, the compounds known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, wherein preferred agents contain the amphoteric surfactant(s) in amounts of from about 0.3 to about 10 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.75 to about 6 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight, in each case in relation to the total agent.

[0101] Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain, as amphoteric surfactants, betaines of formula (Bet-I)

O (Bet-I), in which R stands for a straight chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group with from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms.

[0102] These surfactants are referred to in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Amidopropyl betaines, wherein the representatives that derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaines. In accordance with the invention, surfactants of formula (Bet-I) which are a mixture of the following representatives are particularly preferably used:

H3C-(CH2)7-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)9-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COO35

H3C-(CH2)11-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)13-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)15-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-C(O)-NH-(CH2)3N⁺(CH3)2CH2COO[0103] Surfactants of formula (Bet-I) are particularly preferably used within narrow quantity ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those that contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.75 to about 65 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5.5 % by weight of surfactant(s) of formula (Bet-I).

[0104] In addition to the amphosurfactants of formula (Bet-I) or instead of these, the hair treatment agents can particularly preferably contain, as amphoteric surfactants, betaines of formula (Bet-II)

(Bet-II), in which R stands for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group with from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms.

[0105] These surfactants are referred to in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Amphoacetates, wherein the representatives that derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphoactetates.

[0106] For production-related reasons, surfactants of this kind always contain betaines of formula (Bet-IIa)

Η

Ο

Μ+ (Bet-IIa), in which R stands for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group with from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and M stands for a cation.

[0107] These surfactants are referred to in accordance with INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetates, wherein the representatives that derive from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetates.

[0108] Surfactants of formula (Bet-II) which are a mixtures of the following representatives are particularly preferably used in accordance with the invention:

H3C-(CH2)7-C(O)-NH-(CH2)2NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)9-C(O)-NH-(CH2)2NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COOH₃C-(CH2)ii-C(O)-NH-(CH2)₂NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)13-C(O)-NH-(CH2)2NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COOH3C-(CH2)15-C(O)-NH-(CH2)₂NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COOH₃C-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-C(O)-NH-(CH2)₂NH⁺(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO[0109] Surfactants of formula (Bet-II) are particularly preferably used within narrow quantity ranges. Here, preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are those that contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.75 to about 6.5 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5.5 % by weight surfactant(s) of formula (Bet-II).

[0110] To summarise, preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are those in which the group R in the formulas (Bet-I) and (Bet-II) is selected fromH3C-(CH₂)7H₃C-(CH₂)9- H₃C-(CH₂)h- H₃C-(CH₂)i₃- H₃C(CH₂)15H₃C-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7- or mixtures thereof.

[0111] The hair treatment agents can contain non-ionic surfactant(s).

[0112] Suitable non-ionic surfactants include, for example addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with from about 8 to about 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with from about 12 to about 22 C atoms and with alkyl phenols with from about 8 to about 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products with methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanol amides and fatty acid glucamides,

Cs-Cso fatty acid mono and diesters of addition products of from about 1 to about mol ethylene oxide with glycerol, amine oxides, sorbitol fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitol fatty acid esters, such as polysorbates, fatty acid alkanol amides of the following general formula,

O

in which R preferably means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group with from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms and the groups R’ stand for hydrogen or for the group -(CEhjnOH, in which n means the numbers from about 2 or about 3, with the provision that at least one of the groups R’ stands for the aforementioned group -(CEhjnOH, sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid ester, addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanol amides and fatty amines, and/or alkyl(oligo)glucosides,

- mixtures of alkyl-(oligo)-glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov® 68, addition products of from about 5 to about 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,

- partial esters of polyols with from about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with from about 8 to about 22 C atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group at C atom 3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol, and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts and are known in this case as mycosterols.

- phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids, which are obtained for example as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soybeans).

[0113] Suitable alkyl (oligo)glycosides can be selected from compounds of the general formula R0-[G]x, in which [G] preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses having from about 5 to about 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.

[0114] The index number x stands for the degree of oligomerisation (DP), i.e. for the distribution of the mono- and oligoglycosides. The index number x preferably has a value in the range from about 1 to about 10, particularly preferably in the range from about 1 to about 3, wherein it is not necessarily an integer, but can be a fractional number, which can be determined analytically.

[0115] Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerisation between from about 1.2 and about 1.5.

[0116] The group R preferably stands for at least one alkyl and/or alkenyl group having from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.

[0117] Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo)glycosides are the compounds known by the INCI names Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.

[0118] Suitable amine oxides can be selected from at least one compound of general formulas (A-I) or (A-II)

(A-I)

(Α-Π), in which R in each case stands for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group with from about 6 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.

[0119] Particularly preferred are the surfactants of the aforementioned formulas (A-I) or (A-II) commercially available from various providers and known under the INCI names Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and/or Cocamidopropylamine oxide.

[0120] Suitable CT-CTo fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol are preferably understood to be those known under the INCI names PEG(l-lO) Glyceryl Cocoate, in particular PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.

[0121] It can also be advantageous to combine the ethoxylated fatty acid esters with further ethoxylated fatty acid esters. Such product mixtures are commercially available for example under the name “Antil 200®” (INCI name: PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) from the company Evonik.

[0122] Particularly preferred non-ionic surfactants that can be contained in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are fatty acid alkanol amides, in particular the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamide MEA and/or Cocamide MIPA;

alkyl(oligo)glucosides, in particular the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and/or Coco Glucoside; C8-C30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from about 1 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol, in particular the compound known under the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; and/or addition products of from about 4 to about 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or from about 0 to about 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with from about 8 to about 22 C atoms.

[0123] On account of their foam-stabilising and hydrating properties, Cocamide MEA and/or PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate are particularly preferred.

[0124] Hair treatment agents that are preferred in accordance with the invention contain - in relation to their weight - from about 0.3 to about 10 % by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.75 to about 6 % by weight and in particular from about 1 to about 5 % by weight of non-ionic surfactant(s).

[0125] The hair treatment agents contain the above-described active substances preferably in a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Within the scope of the invention, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier is meant hereby.

[0126] The cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least about 50 % by weight, more preferably at least about 60 % by weight, particularly preferably at least about 70 % by weight, and especially preferably at least about 75 % by weight of water.

[0127] Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier can contain from about 0.01 to about 40 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 30 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.1 to about 20 % by weight of at least one alcohol.

[0128] Suitable alcohols include, for example, ethanol, ethyldiglycol, 1-propanol, 2propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2butanol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5 pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols.

[0129] The water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred. Ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures of these alcohols are preferred in particular.

[0130] For very good skin (scalp) compatibility of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, it is advantageous if said agents have a slightly acidic pH value.

It has been found that the agents according to the invention have particularly good skin compatibility and gentleness in a pH range of from about 4.2 to about 5.8.

[0131] In a first preferred embodiment the hair treatment agents according to the invention therefore preferably have a pH value in a range of from about 4.2 to about 5.8, more preferably of from about 4.25 to about 5.6, particularly preferably of from about 4.3 to about 5.5, extremely preferably of from about 4.35 to about 5.4, and especially preferably of from about 4.4 to about 5.3.

[0132] The hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain vegetable oils, vegetable butters, and/or vegetable waxes. These vegetable oil components provide the hair with improved combability and manageability and increase the shine of the hair.

[0133] Suitable vegetable oil components include natural (vegetable) oils and/or butters, which typically contain triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.

[0134] Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, lady's smock oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[0135] Carnauba wax, beeswax and/or candelilla wax can be used with preference as suitable natural or vegetable wax.

[0136] Particularly preferred vegetable oil components are (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter. Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil and/or jojoba oil are particularly preferred.

[0137] In a preferred embodiment the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, lady's smock oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[0138] Within this embodiment it is particularly preferred if the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and/or shea butter.

[0139] The proportion by weight of the at least one vegetable oil, the vegetable butter and/or the vegetable wax in the total weight of the hair treatment agent according to the invention is preferably from about 0.02 to about 2.50 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.03 to about 2.00 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.04 to about 1.50 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.05 to about 1.00 % by weight.

[0140] Besides the aforementioned essential and optional constituents, the hair treatment agents according to the invention, in a further preferred embodiment for further increasing the nourishing properties of the agents, can contain at least one further hairconditioning active substance, which can be selected from the group of

- protein hydrolysates,

- vitamins,

- plant extracts and/or

- glycerol.

[0141] Suitable protein hydrolysates are to be understood to be product mixtures that can be obtained by acid-, base- or enzyme-catalysed degradation of proteins. Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and/or marine origin can be used.

[0142] Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed for example under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana) Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German gelatin factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

[0143] Protein hydrolysates of plant origin are preferred, for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexenin® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda). In addition, cationised protein hydrolysates can be used, wherein the basic protein hydrolysate can originate from animals, for example, from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example, from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life, for example, from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates forming the basis of the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical hydrolysis, particularly alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins generally produces a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution from about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Cationic protein hydrolysates that are preferred are those of which the base protein content has a molecular weight of from about 100 to about 25,000 daltons, preferably from about 250 to about 5,000 daltons. Moreover, cationic protein hydrolysates are understood to include quatemised amino acids and their mixtures. Quatemisation of the protein hydrolysates or the amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Moreover, the cationic protein hydrolysates can also be further derivatised.

Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are the commercially available products known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HC1, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, and Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

[0144] The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolysate(s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably from about 0.01 to about 5 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.025 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight.

[0145] Regardless of the source (plant, animal, marine etc.), protein hydrolysates contain individual amino acids, oligopeptides and optionally polypeptides depending on the degree of hydrolysis.

[0146] Suitable vitamins are preferably understood to mean the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof:

• Vitamin A: the group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (Vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (Vitamin A₂). β-carotin is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol as well as esters thereof, such as the palmitate and acetate.

• Vitamin B: the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, inter alia, > Vitamin Bi (thiamin) > Vitamin B₂ (riboflavin) > Vitamin Bv This often includes the compounds of nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).

> Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In the context of this group, panthenol is preferably used. Useable derivatives of panthenol are especially the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone, and also cationically derivatised panthenols. Specific representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and monoacetate thereof, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

> Vitamin Βό (pyridoxine and also pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): the use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides, or phosphates can be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred.

• Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).

• Vitamin F: the term “vitamin F” is usually understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

• Vitamin H: The compound (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol4-valeric acid denotes vitamin H, for which the trivial name however (biotin) has become accepted.

[0147] Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are preferred in particular. The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), and/or the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agent is preferably from about 0.001 to about 2 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.005 to about 1 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.01 to about 0.5 % by weight.

[0148] Suitable plant extracts are understood to be extracts which can be produced from all parts of a plant. These extracts are usually produced by extraction of the entire plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and/or leaves of the plant. In particular, the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, camomile, burdock root, field horsetail, hawthorn, linden flowers, lychee, almonds, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandal wood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, malva, lady's smock, broad-leaved thyme, common yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest-harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, echinacea purpurea, olive, boerhavia diffusa root, fennel and celery are suitable.

[0149] Extracts from green tea, stinging nettle, hamamelis, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, echinacea purpurea, olive and/or boerhavia diffusa root are particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention.

[0150] Water, alcohols, and mixtures thereof can be used as extracting agents for producing the specified plant extracts. Here, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extracting agent and mixed with water, are preferred alcohols. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of from about 1:10 to about 10:1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

[0151] The plant extracts can be used both in pure and diluted form. If used in diluted form, they usually contain approximately 2 to about 80 % by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extracting agent or extracting agent mixture used fortheir recovery.

[0152] The plant extracts can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention (in relation to the total weight of the agents) preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.1 to about 5 % by weight.

[0153] Glycerol can be added to the hair cleansing and nourishing agents separately in an amount of up to 10 % by weight (in relation to the total weight of the agent). However, it can also be part of the aforementioned aqueous-alcoholic carrier.

[0154] It has been found that the hair treatment agents according to the invention are also suitable for use as an anti-dandruff preparation.

[0155] The total weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair treatment agent can be preferably from about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.025 to about 7.5 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.05 to about 5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.075 to about 3 % by weight.

[0156] Suitable anti-dandruff active substances can be selected from piroctone olamines, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazoles, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tea preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock extracts, poplar extracts, stinging nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and/or arnica extracts. Climbazole, zinc pyrithione, and piroctone olamines are preferred.

[0157] Further active substances, auxiliaries and additives that can be contained with preference in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are, for example,

- humectants, fragrances,

UV filters,

- thickening agents such as gelatins or plant gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean flour, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for example methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose , amylopectin and dextrins, clays and sheet silicates, such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps, structurants, such as maleic acid and lactic acid, dimethyl isosorbide, cyclodextrins, fibre structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar, and lactose, dyes for colouring the agent, active substances such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramides. Ceramides are understood to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues such as lipids (what are known as pseudo ceramides),

- propellants, such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethylether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, additional viscosity regulators, such as salts (NaCl).

[0158] The agents according to the invention are preferably what are known as rinse-off products, i.e. they are rinsed out of the hair again after a certain reaction time. This reaction time is preferably less than an hour, i.e. the consumer preferably does not leave the products in the hair until the next time the hair is washed.

[0159] A further subject of the present invention is therefore a method for treating hair, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to dry or wet hair, is left there for a period of from about 30 to about 300 seconds, and is then rinsed out.

[0160] The agents according to the invention lead to a significantly increased strengthening of the internal and external hair structure.

[0161] A further subject of the present invention is therefore the use of mixtures of

a) methionine,

b) maleic acid and/or succinic acid

c) haircare substance(s) selected from the group of

a. cationic polymers

b. quaternary ammonium compounds

c. fatty alcohols

d. silicones to strengthen the inner hair structure and to increase the hair-conditioning effect of hair treatment agents.

[0162] The term “structure strengthening” within the sense of the invention is understood to mean a reduction of the damage to keratinic fibres caused as a result of a wide range of influences. Here, the re-establishment of the natural strength plays a key role, for example. Restructured fibres are characterised for example by an improved shine, by an improved feel, and by an easier combability. In addition, they have optimised strength and elasticity. A successful structure strengthening or restructuring can be verified physically as an increase in the melting point compared to damaged fibres (DSC measurements).

[0163] In respect of preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention and of the use according to the invention, that which has been said in respect of the agents according to the invention applies, mutatis mutandis.

Claims

Claims:

A hair treatment agent containing - in relation to its weight -

a) from about 0.0001 to about 20 % by weight methionine;

b) from about 0 to about 5 % by weight maleic acid;

c) from about 0 to about 5 % by weight succinic acid with the proviso that the total amount of ingredients b) and c) is from about 0.001 to about 10 % by weight in relation to the total agent;

d) one or more haircare substance(s) selected from the group of

a.

b.

c.

d.

cationic polymers quaternary ammonium compounds fatty alcohols silicones.

2.
2.

3.
3.

The hair treatment agent according to claim 1, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - a total amount of from about 0.0005 to about 15 % by weight, preferably from about 0.001 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.005 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight of methionine.

The hair treatment agent according to either one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - a total amount of from about 0.0001 to about
4.5 % by weight, preferably from about 0.0005 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.001 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight of maleic acid.

The hair treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - from about 0.0001 to about 4.5 % by weight, preferably from about 0.0005 to about 4 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.001 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.01 to about 2 % by weight of succinic acid.
5. The hair treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of cationic polymer(s), preferably from about 0.01 to about 3 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.15 to about 0.8 % by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulose polymers and/or the cationic guar derivatives.
6. The hair treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to the weight of the agent - from about 0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight of cationic surfactant(s), preferably from about 0.05 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 8 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.5 to about 7 % by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
7. The hair treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - from about 0.5 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.75 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 12 % by weight, and in particular from about 2 to about 10 % by weight of fatty alcohol(s).
8. The hair treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the agent contains - in relation to its weight - from about 0.01 to about 20 % by weight, preferably from about 0.05 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 7.5 % by weight, and in particular from about 0.15 to about 5 % by weight of aminofunctional silicone(s).
9.

A method for the treatment of hair, characterised in that an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to moist hair, left there for a period of from about 30 to about 300 seconds, and then rinsed out.
10. Use of mixtures of

a) methionine,

b) maleic acid and/or succinic acid

c) haircare substance(s) selected from the group of

a. cationic polymers

b. quaternary ammonium compounds

c. fatty alcohols

d. silicones to strengthen the inner hair structure and to increase the hair-conditioning effect of hair treatment agents.