DE102007013145A1 - Waving agents with hair fiber structure - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of alpha-lipoic acid derivatives in waving agents causes an improvement in the fiber structure of hair in the context of a reductive, permanent hair deformation. Waving agents containing in addition to at least one keratin-reducing compound additionally at least one alpha-lipoic acid derivative, cause an excellent Haarumformung, provide a protection of the hair fiber structure and are mild to the scalp.

Description

The The invention relates to the use of α-lipoic acid or their derivatives for improving the fiber structure of hair as part of a skin-friendly, reductive, permanent hair deformation; Waving agents, in addition to at least one keratin-reducing compound additionally contain at least one α-lipoic acid derivative; a packaging unit comprising the corrugating agent and a method for permanent hair deformation, in which the inventive Active agent combination of the waving agent is used.

The permanent deformation of keratin fibers usually becomes done so that the fiber mechanically deformed and the deformation determined by suitable tools. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing Substance and rinses after exposure to water or an aqueous solution. In one second step then treated the fiber with the aqueous Preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time This is also rinsed out and the fiber from the mechanical Deformation aids (winder, Papilloten) freed.

The aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance is usually alkaline, so on the one hand a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions deprotonated and on the other hand, the fiber swells and in this way deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is possible. The keratin-reducing substance splits a part of the disulfide bonds of Kerstins to -SH groups, so that there is a relaxation of peptide crosslinking and as a result the tension of the fiber through the mechanical deformation to a Reorientation of Keratingefüges comes. Under the influence of Oxidizing agent is again linked to disulfide bonds, and in this way the keratin paste is given in the given Deformation newly fixed. One known such method the permanent wave treatment of human hair. This can both for the creation of curls and waves in straight hair as well as for Smoothing of ruffled hair can be applied.

A negative concomitant of the permanent wave thus carried out Hair is often embrittled and dull The Hair. This concomitant means in the worst case one permanent damage to the hair fiber leading to hair breakage or Hair splitting can lead. Furthermore, can in sensitive individuals by the keratin-reducing compounds Irritations of the scalp are induced.

It has not lacked attempts in the past, Wellmittel to formulate, which spare the structure of the hair fiber, mild to the scalp and provide an excellent wave result.

In the publication US-A-5,858,179 discloses disulfide-containing corrugating agents, which are used in the context of a light-induced permanent hair deformation application.

The publication EP-A2-1 129 687 refers to corrugating agents which, in addition to at least one sulfur-containing reducing agent for odor reduction, additionally contain at least one water-insoluble disulfide having a log P value of at least 1.

According to document US-A-20030180337 For example, α-lipoic acid can be used to reduce existing damage caused by weathering. However, it does not describe the use of α-lipoic acid together with a reducing agent in the context of a permanent hair transformation.

It the task was to make a corrugator for the permanent To provide deformation of keratinous fibers, according to which Application the mentioned unwanted side effects of Keratinreduzierenden substances reduced or completely excluded become. At the same time a very good wave effect is achieved and the scalp irritation be reduced.

Surprisingly was found to damage the hair fiber structure by the addition of α-lipoic acid or its derivatives to corrugating agents containing at least one keratin-reducing compound, is minimized.

worin
R eine Gruppe -OH, -OM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht,
zur Verminderung der durch keratinreduzierende Verbindungen verursachten Haarschädigung.A first object of the invention is the use of at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form

wherein
R is a group -OH, -OM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation,
for reducing hair damage caused by keratin-reducing compounds.

All further statements extend, even if only Of course, compounds of the formula (I) can be mentioned also on their reduced form.

• – zur Verminderung der durch keratinreduzierende Verbindungen verursachte Destrukturierung der Haarfaser,
• – zur Verminderung der durch keratinreduzierende Verbindungen verursachten Bildung von Haarspliß,
• – zur Verminderung des durch keratinreduzierende Verbindungen verursachten Haarbruchs,
• – zur Linderung der durch keratinreduzierende Verbindungen verursachten sensorischen Missempfindungen auf der Kopfhaut, wie insbesondere Stechen oder Juckreiz.

The compound according to the above formula (I) is preferably used

• To reduce the hair fiber destructuring caused by keratin-reducing compounds,
• To reduce hairline formation caused by keratin-reducing compounds,
• To reduce hair breakage caused by keratin-reducing compounds,
• - To alleviate the sensory discomfort caused by keratin-reducing compounds on the scalp, in particular stinging or itching.

worin jeweils R eine Gruppe -OH, -OM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht.The reduced form of the compounds of the formula (I) used according to the invention corresponds to the formula (Ia)

wherein each R is a group -OH, -OM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, wherein M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.

Of the Radical R is preferably in the formulas (I) or (Ia) a group -OH, or -OM.

The mono- or polyvalent cation M according to formula (I) or formula (Ia) carries a charge number z of one or higher and serves only for reasons of electroneutrality to compensate for the single negative charge of the present at salt carboxylate fragment -COO ^- in formula ( I) or (Ia). The equivalent of the corresponding cation M to be used is 1 / z. The fragment -OM of formulas (I) and (Ia) in the case of salt formation stands for the group -O ^- 1 / z (M ^{z +} ).

In principle, all physiologically compatible cations are suitable as mono- or polyvalent cations M ^{z +} . In particular, these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ammonium ions, as well as cationic organic compounds with quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are, for example, by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid, such as. B. formed with compounds of formula (I) in their acidic form, or by permanent quaternization of said organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol. M ^- in formula (I) or (Ia) is preferably an ammonium ion, an alkali metal ion, half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion or half an equivalent of a zinc ion, more preferably an ammonium ion, a sodium ion, a potassium ion, ½ calcium ion, ½ Magnesium ion or ½ zinc ion.

The Compound of the formula used according to the invention (I) or (Ia) carries a chiral center on the carbon atom the sixth position of the carbon skeleton. For the use according to the invention is stereochemistry the compound of formula (I) or the stereochemistry of the reduced Form negligible. Consequently, the enantiopure Shapes as well as any mixtures of the enantiomers (such as in particular Racemates) are used according to the invention.

Most preferably, the compound of formula (I) is selected from at least one Ver group of the group formed from (R) -α-lipoic acid, (S) -α-lipoic acid, the salts of the aforementioned compounds.

• – Mercaptanen mit mindestens einer Gruppe -SH und
• – Sulfit-Verbindungen.

The compounds of formula (I) are also effective when used in addition with at least one keratin reducing compound. The additional keratin reducing compounds are different from the reduced form of the compounds of formula (I). They are preferably selected from at least one member of the group that is formed

• Mercaptans with at least one group -SH and
• - sulfite compounds.

Preferred sulfite compounds are selected from minnesetns a member of the group formed from sulfites, hydrogen sulfites or disulfites. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites are sodium disulfite (Na ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), potassium disulfite (K ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ). Ammonium disulfite may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of hydrogen sulfites are hydrogen sulfites as alkali metal, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfites are sulfites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred.

preferred Keratinreduzierende compounds of the group of mercaptans are Thioacids, that is, compounds which (i) at least a group -SH and (ii) at least one sulfonic acid or Sulfonate group or carboxyl group or carboxylate carry. Again, those thioacids are preferred which are (i) at least one group -SH, (ii) at least one at least one Carboxyl group or carboxylate group and (iii) at least one hydroxy group and / or amino group. Particularly preferred representatives of thioacids are thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, Cysteine, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and the salts and Esters of the aforementioned thioacids. The use of a Combination of at least one compound of the formula (I) and at least a thioacid as an additional keratin-reducing Compound is preferred according to the invention.

The Compounds of formula (I) are preferred in a cosmetic Carrier used. Suitable as cosmetic carriers According to the invention, especially creams, emulsions, Gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, especially suitable for use on the hair are. It is also conceivable, the ingredients in a powdery or to integrate tablet-like formulation, which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic Carriers may be particularly aqueous or be watery-alcoholic.

One aqueous cosmetic carrier at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The corrugating agents according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

• (i) mindestens einer Verbindung der folgenden Formel (I) und/oder deren reduzierten Form,
  
  worin R eine Gruppe -OH, -CM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht, und
• (ii) mindestens einer zusätzlichen keratinreduzierenden Verbindung.

A second subject of the invention are corrugating agents containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of

• (i) at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,
  
  wherein R is a group -OH, -CM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, wherein M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, and
• (ii) at least one additional keratin reducing compound.

preferred Compounds of the formula (I) are those of the first subject of the invention.

The Waving agents according to the invention contain the compounds of the formula (I) or its reduced form preferably in an amount from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the waving agent.

preferred Cosmetic carriers are those of the first subject of the invention.

Corresponding preferred additional keratin-reducing compounds were also mentioned in the context of the first subject of the invention.

The additional keratin-reducing compounds are in the corrugation according to the invention preferably in Concentrations of 0.2 to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the Wellmittel, used.

Of the pH value of the corrugating agent according to the invention in the range of pH 5 to 12, in particular from pH 7 to 9.5. The pH the corrugating agent according to the invention is in use of sulfite and / or disulfite and / or Hydrogensulft preferred a value in the neutral range of pH 5 to 8, preferably of pH 6 set to 7.5.

to Adjustment of this pH contain the inventive Waving agents usually alkalizing agents such as ammonia, Alkali and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines like monoethanolamine. To protect the scalp with good waviness of the waving agent, the pH of the according to the invention during the application constant. Constant means according to the invention, that the pH of the ready-to-use waving agent is not around more than 0.5 pH units, especially not more than 0.2 pH units changes. Thus, the ready-to-use corrugating agent is preferably free of compounds to formulate which by a ready-to-use corrugating medium Alkaline hydrolysis takes a measurable dynamic pH Cause subsidence. These compounds are, for example, diethyl oxalate, Galactonic acid 1,4-lactone, ribonic acid 1,4-lactone, Mannoic acid 1,4-lactone, gulonic acid 1,4-lactone, Glucuronic acid-6,3-lactone, glucono-1,5-lactone, others Carboxylic acid ester in combination with ester-splitting enzymes.

The additional keratin-reducing compounds and the Compounds according to formula (I) are preferred in a weight ratio of 20 to 1 to 1 to 1, especially preferably from 5 to 1 to 1.5 to 1, in the inventive Waving agent incorporated.

• • heterocyclische Verbindungen wie Imidazol, Pyrrolidin, Piperidin, Dioxolan, Dioxan, Morpholin und Piperazin sowie Derivate dieser Verbindungen wie beispielsweise die C_1-4-Alkyl-Derivate, C_1-4-Hydroxyalkyl-Derivate und C_1-4-Aminoalkyl-Derivate. Bevorzugte Substituenten, die sowohl an Kohlenstoffatomen als auch an Stickstoffatomen der heterocyclischen Ringsysteme positioniert sein können, sind Methyl-, Ethyl-, β-Hydroxyethyl- und β-Aminoethyl-Gruppen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate heterocyclischer Verbindungen sind beispielsweise 1-Methylimidazol, 2-Methylimidazol, 4(5)-Methylimidazol, 1,2-Dimethylimidazol, 2-Ethylimidazol, 2-Isopropylimidazol, N-Methylpyrrolidon, 1-Methylpiperidin, 4-Methylpiperidin, 2-Ethylpiperidin, 4-Methylmorpholin, 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)morpholin, 1-Ethylpiperazin, 1-(2-Hydroxyethyl)piperazin, 1-(2-Aminoethyl)piperazin. Weiterhin erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Imidazolderivate sind Biotin, Hydantoin und Benzimidazol. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist das Imidazol.
• • Aminosäuren wie insbesondere Arginin, Citrullin, Histidin, Ornithin und Lysin. Die Aminosäuren können sowohl als freie Aminosäure als auch als Salze, z. B. als Hydrochloride, eingesetzt werden. Weiterhin haben sich auch Oligopeptide aus durchschnittlich 2–3 Aminosäuren, die einen hohen Anteil (> 50%, insbesondere > 70%) an den genannten Aminosäuren haben, als erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar erwiesen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Arginin sowie dessen Salze und argininreiche Oligopeptide.
• • Diole wie beispielsweise 2-Ethyl-1,3-hexandiol, 1,3-Butandiol, 1,4-Butandiol, 1,2-Propandiol, 1,3-Propandiol, Neopentylglykol und Ethylenglykol. 1,3-Diole, insbesondere 2-Ethyl-1,3-hexandiol und 1,3-Butandiol, haben sich als besonders gut geeignet erwiesen.

Furthermore, the corrugating agents according to the invention may contain corrosive components, such as

• Heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine and derivatives of these compounds such as the C _1-4 -alkyl derivatives, C _1-4 -hydroxyalkyl derivatives and C _1-4 -aminoalkyl derivatives , Preferred substituents which may be positioned on both carbon atoms and nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems are methyl, ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl and β-aminoethyl groups. Preferred derivatives of heterocyclic compounds according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1,2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2 Ethyl piperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine. Further preferred imidazole derivatives according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Most preferably, the imidazole.
• • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine. The amino acids can be used both as free amino acid and as salts, eg. B. as hydrochlorides used. Furthermore, oligopeptides of on average 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have proven to be usable according to the invention. Particularly preferred according to the invention are arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides.
• Diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol. 1,3-diols, in particular 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol, have proven to be particularly suitable.

For more information on such Wellkraftverstärkenden components is to the publications DE-OS 44 36 065 and EP-61-363 057 referenced, the contents of which are expressly incorporated by reference.

The reinforcing compounds may be present in the waving agents of the invention in amounts of from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total waving agent. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, im Fall of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.

The Waving agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one oil component.

Oil components suitable according to the invention are in principle all oils and fatty substances and their mixtures with solid paraffins and waxes. Preferred are such oil components, their solubility in water at 20 ° C less than 1 Wt .-%, in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% is. Of the Melting point of the individual oil or fat components lies preferably below about 40 ° C. Oil components, at room temperature, d. H. liquid below 25 ° C are, according to the invention particularly be preferred. When using multiple oil and grease components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is usually however also sufficient if the mixture of oil and fat components and possibly paraffins and waxes meet these conditions.

A preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are apricot kernel oil, Avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, Soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, Orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of the coconut oil. Suitable but are also other triglyceride oils such as the liquid Proportions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

Another particularly preferred group of oil components which can be used according to the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n -decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Also usable according to the invention oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred. This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. In the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, with alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate and n-butyl stearate.

Farther also include dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, Di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol ester such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate and neopentyl glycol di-capylate oil components usable in the present invention represents, as complex esters such. B. the diacetyl-glycerol monostearate.

Finally, oil components which can preferably be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes. Examples of such silicones are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes, quaternium-80). For the purposes of the invention, silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C., may be preferred. Very particular preference is given to silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt, measured at 25.degree. The determination of the viscosities is carried out according to the ball drop method according to the method "british standard 188". Comparable values are obtained with manufacturers' British standard 188 analog test specifications, such as Dow Corning Corporation's "CTM 0577".

In one particular embodiment, with kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C as the oil component in particular cyclic siloxanes such as the products of Dow Corning ^® 344, Dow Corning ^® 345, Dow Corning® 244, Dow Corning ^® 245 or Dow Corning ^® 246 determined according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Finally, oil components which can be used according to the invention are also dialkyl carbonates, as described in US Pat DE-OS 197 101 54 to which reference is expressly made to be described in detail. Dioctyl carbonates, especially the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.

Farther can the corrugation according to the invention additionally contain only limited water-miscible alcohols.

Under "with Miscible water "is understood as meaning those alcohols which in water at 20 ° C to not more than 10 wt .-%, based on the body of water, are soluble.

In Many cases have triole and especially diols proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention. Alcohols with 4 can be used according to the invention to 20, in particular 4 to 10, carbon atoms. The inventively used Alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated and be linear, branched or cyclic. Applicable in the sense of Invention are, for example, butanol-1, cyclohexanol, pentanol-1, Decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, Decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, Linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their guerbet alcohols, this enumeration is exemplary and not limiting Character should have. However, the fatty alcohols are preferred usually from natural fatty acids from extraction from the esters of fatty acids Reduction can be assumed. Usable according to the invention are also such fatty alcohol cuts by reduction of course occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, Sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters be generated, and thus a mixture of different fatty alcohols represent.

According to the invention preferred alcohols are 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1,3, butanol-1, cyclohexanol, Pentanol-1 and 1,2-butanediol. In particular, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, but also butanol-1 and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerin poly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further embodiment, emulsifiers can be used in the waving agents according to the invention. Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994" , Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkano lamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Waving agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

The corrugating agents according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, in accordance with the Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 , listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The However, the teaching according to the invention comprises also such embodiments of the invention Wells in which a multi-phase wave agent is present, which from two or more separately prepared starting preparations can be produced immediately before use. These Embodiment may be preferred for incompatible components be. It has surprisingly been found that Well-formulated waving agent for the same amount of the respective additional keratin-reducing components a significant increased wave effect result. Consequently, this way can with a formulated according to the invention corrugating agent achieved corrugation performance with a significant reduction in the proportion the keratin-reducing substance, and thus under additional Protection of hair and scalp, can be achieved.

Farther has been shown that by formulation of the corrugating as a two- and multi-phase system the problem of perfuming can be significantly reduced. Not because of most users tolerated fragrance of the in the invention Contained in waving agents (keratin-reducing thio compounds, possibly alkalis such as ammonia or alkanolamines) is a perfuming but practically indispensable. The problem is that the vast number of perfume components is not storage stable in such corrugating agents. Thus, the selection the fragrance notes for these waving agents severely limited. It has now also surprisingly been found that when using the two- or multi-phase systems a Variety of other perfume components in these waving agents can be incorporated storage stable.

• • eine wäßrige Phase und eine nichtwäßrige Phase, die separat voneinander vorliegen
• • eine wäßrige Phase und zwei nichtwäßrige, miteinander nicht mischbare Phasen, die jeweils separat vorliegen
• • eine Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion und eine davon separiert vorliegende nichtwäßrige Phase
• • eine Wasser-in-Öl-Emulsion und eine davon separiert vorliegende wäßrige Phase.

Two- and multi-phase systems which can be used according to the invention are systems in which there are at least two separate, continuous phases. Examples of such systems are preparations which have the following phases:

• An aqueous phase and a nonaqueous phase which are separate from each other
• An aqueous phase and two non-aqueous, immiscible phases, each being separate
• An oil-in-water emulsion and a non-aqueous phase separated therefrom
• A water-in-oil emulsion and an aqueous phase separated therefrom.

None Two-phase systems in the sense of the present invention are systems where there is only one continuous phase, such. Pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.

Farther it has proved to be advantageous if the inventive Waving agent is a nourishing agent selected from protein hydrolysates and their derivatives.

suitable Protein hydrolysates are in particular elastin, collagen, kerstin, Milk protein, silk protein, soy protein, almond protein, Pea protein, potato protein, oat protein, corn protein and Wheat protein. It can products on vegetable Base be preferred according to the invention.

Suitable derivatives are, in particular, quaternized protein hydrolysates. Examples of this class of compounds are sold under the names Lamequat® ^® L (CTFA name: Lauryidimonium hydroxypropylamino Hydrolyzed Animal Protein; Grunau), Croquat ^® WKP and Gluadin® ^® WQ on the market products. The latter plant-based product may be preferred. The protein derivatives are contained in the corrugating agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total amount of the corrugating agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are preferred.

Prefers contain the corrugation according to the invention further additionally at least one conditioning agent.

When conditioning agents are preferably cationic polymers into consideration. These are usually polymers that are quaternary Nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate.
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen,
• – Polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere.
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminomethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich.
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter der Bezeichnung Luviquat^® angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen
• – Polyquaternium 2,
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27

bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
• Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups,
• - Polymers Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially.
• - vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid copolymers, such as those offered under the name Luviquat.RTM ^®,
• - Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and those under the names
• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• - Polyquaternium 27

known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Suitable conditioning agents are also ampho-polymers. Amphoteric polymers, ie polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, are zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule and amphoteric polymers. COO ^- - or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Likewise preferred amphopolymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (eg, acrylic and methacrylic acids), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (eg, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride), and optionally further ionic or nonionic monomers, such as in U.S. Pat German patent application 39 29 973 and the prior art cited therein. Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and Methacrylamidopropyltrimoniumchlorid, as they are commercially available under the name Merquat ^® 2001 N and the commercial product Merquat ^® 280, according to the invention are particularly preferred amphopolymers.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Preparations preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation, included.

As conditioning agents further suitable silicone gums, such as. B. the commercial product fan CORSIL ^® LIM-1, and anionic silicones, such as for example the product Dow Corning ^® 1784th

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used as conditioning agents in the waving agents according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Furthermore, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as those marketed under the trademarks Dehyquart ^® and Stepantex ^® methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkylammoniummethosulfate be used.

Alkylamidoamines, in particular fatty acid amidoamines, such as the ^{stearylamidopropyldimethylamine} obtainable under the name Tego ^Amid® S 18, are distinguished not only by a good conditioning action but also by their good biodegradability.

• – anionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Seifen, Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate, Salze von Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist, Acylsarcoside, Acyltauride, Acylisethionate, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und dialkylester, lineare Alkansulfonate, lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate, alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester und Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure Alkylglykosiden oder Alkoholen, welche Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen.
• – zwitterionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Betaine und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline.
• – ampholytische Tenside, wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren.
• – nichtionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 15 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.
• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere,
• – anionische Polymere, wie Polyacryl- und Polymethacrylsäuren, deren Salze, deren Copolymere mit Acrylsäure- und Methacrylsäureestern und -amiden und deren Derivate, die durch Kreuzvernetzung mit polyfunktionellen Agentien erhalten werden, Polyoxycarbonsäuren, wie Polyketo- und Polyaldehydocarbonsäuren und deren Salze, sowie Polymere und Copolymere der Crotonsäure mit Estern und Amiden der Acryl- und der Methacrylsäure, wie Vinylacetat-Crotonsäure- und Vinylacetat-Vinylpropionat-Crotonsäure-Copolymere,
• – organische Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Celluloseether, wie Methyl- und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, Gelatine, Pektine und/oder Xanthan-Gum. Ethoxilierte Fettalkohole, insbesondere solche mit eingeschränkter Homologenverteilung, wie sie beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt unter der Bezeichnung Arlypon^®F (Henkel) auf dem Markt sind, alkoxylierte Methylglucosidester, wie das Handelsprodukt Glucamate^® DOE 120 (Amerchol), und ethoxylierte Propylenglykolester, wie das Handelsprodukt Antil^® 141 (Goldschmidt), können bevorzugte organische Verdickungsmittel sein.
• – Strukturanten wie Glucose und Maleinsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – Parfümöle,
• – Lösungsvermittler, wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Diethylenglykol und ethoxylierte Triglyceride sowie Fettalkoholethoxylate und deren Derivate,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Climbazol, Piroctone Ölamine und Zink Omadine,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Bisabolol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Niacinmid, Tocopherol und Pflanzenextrakte,
• – Lichtschutzmittel,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse, wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs, Paraffine, Ester, Glyceride und Fettalkohole,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie PCA, Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex oder Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat oder PEG-3-distearat,
• – direktziehende Farbstoffe sowie
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft.

Further customary constituents for the corrugating agents according to the invention are:

• - anionic surfactants such as soaps, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, salts of ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in the R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acylisethionates, sulfosuccinic and dialkyl, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, alpha-sulfofatty acid and esters of tartaric and citric acid alkyl glycosides or alcohols, which adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
• - Zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
• Ampholytic surfactants, for example N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
• - Nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide Castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
• Anionic polymers, such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents, polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and polymers and Copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers,
• Organic thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers such as methyl and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially those with limited homolog distribution, such as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ^® F (Henkel) on the market, alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate ^® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil ^® 141 (Goldschmidt) may be preferred organic thickeners.
• - structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• - perfume oils,
• Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides, and fatty alcohol ethoxylates and their derivatives,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as climbazole, piroctone oil amines and zinc omadine,
• - active substances such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,
• - sunscreen,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• Fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glycerides and fatty alcohols,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3-distearate,
• - direct dyes as well
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

With regard to the other constituents of the invention Worldmittel and their usual amounts is explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. Umbach, cosmetics, 2nd edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart New York, 1995, and Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.

• (i) die Fasern unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während des Schritts (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) ein Wellmittel des zweiten Erfindungsgegenstandes auf den Fasern angewendet wird,
• (iii) die Fasern nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend ein Fixiermittel, enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

A third object of the invention is a process for the permanent transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which

• (i) the fibers are deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) a corrugating agent of the second subject of the invention is applied to the fibers,
• (iii) the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after a contact time Z1,
• (iv) then a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

• – z. B. Lockenwickler oder Papilloten im Falle einer Dauerwelle,
• – oder Hilfsmittel für eine mechanische Glättung, wie ein Kamm oder eine Bürste, ein Glättungsboard oder ein beheizbares Glättungseisen im Falle einer Haarglättung sein.

Deformation aids in the sense of the method according to the invention can

• - z. Curlers or papillots in the case of a perm,
• - or auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in case of hair straightening.

If the deformation aids, such as winder, as part of a Perming procedure for a longer period of time attached to the fiber, so it is appropriate these deformation aids before step (iii) or after step (iv) remove. It may be advantageous in this context the deformation aids during step (iv) in Leave hair, then remove it and then step (iv) as so-called Nachfixierschritt (v) to repeat.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the keratin-containing fibers moistened before step (i). This can by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably with water. Preferably, the fibers become shampooed before step (i) with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the Terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture back in the hair.

• (a) Mischung zweier getrennt konfektionierter Zubereitungen vor dem Auftragen auf das Haar oder
• (b) aufeinanderfolgendes Auftragen zweier getrennt konfektionierter Zubereitungen auf das Haar ohne Zwischenspülschritt

angewendet werden, mit der Maßgabe, dass eine dieser Zubereitungen in einem kosmetischen Träger mindestens eine Verbindung der folgenden Formel (I) und/oder deren reduzierten Form,

worin
R eine Gruppe -OH, -OM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht, enthält und die andere Zubereitung in einem kosmetischen Träger mindestens eine zusätzliche keratinreduzierende Verbindung enthält.The corrugating means of the second subject of the invention may in step (ii) by

• (a) mixing two separately formulated preparations before application to the hair or
• (b) successively applying two separately formulated preparations to the hair without an intermediate rinse step

with the proviso that one of these preparations in a cosmetic carrier comprises at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

wherein
R represents a group -OH, -OM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkylamino, wherein M represents one equivalent of a mono- or polyvalent cation, and the other Preparation in a cosmetic carrier contains at least one additional keratin-reducing compound.

In the case of a mixture of the two preparations on the hair, one of the two separately prepared preparations (preferably the preparation containing at least one compound of the formula (I)) Moistening of the hair before step (i) serve and with the start of the application of the second preparation (preferably the preparation containing at least one additional keratin-reducing compound) without intermediate rinsing in step (ii), the application of the corrugating means of the second subject of the invention.

Under a mechanical smoothing is inventively a Stretching the frizzy fiber along its longest spatial Expansion understood.

The Contact time Z1 of the corrugating agent according to the invention is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.

The Exposure time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.

compelling Component of the process according to the invention used fixing agent is at least one oxidizing agent, (preferably Sodium bromate, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, more preferably hydrogen peroxide). Preference is given to the aqueous to stabilize Hydrogen peroxide preparations conventional stabilizers contain.

The Fixing agents preferably contain at least 50 wt .-% water.

According to the invention, hydrogen peroxide-containing fixing agents preferably contain from 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H ₂ O ₂ , in each case based on the weight of the fixing agent. The pH of these hydrogen peroxide-based fixers is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4. It is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid.

Bromat-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10 wt .-%. The pH of the bromate solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Likewise suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives (for example peroxidases) which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular H ₂ O ₂ .

The preferred embodiments and definitions of the invention Waving agents are also mutatis mutandis for the process.

One Fourth subject of the invention is a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for carrying out the inventive A method comprising a first container containing a corrugating agent of the second subject of the invention and a second container, containing a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent contains. Here are the oxidizing agents of the third subject of the invention prefers.

worin
R eine Gruppe -OH, -CM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht,
enthalten.If appropriate, the packaging unit additionally comprises at least one further container in which a hair conditioning agent is contained. This hair conditioning agent may also preferably be a compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

wherein
R is a group -OH, -CM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation,
contain.

worin
R eine Gruppe -OH, -CM, NH₂, (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkoxy oder (C₁ bis C₂₂)-Alkylamino bedeutet, wobei M für ein Äquivalent eines ein- oder mehrwertigen Kations steht,
und der andere Container enthält eine Zusammensetzung, die mindestens eine zusätzliche keratinreduzierende Verbindung enthält.The corrugation according to the invention of the second subject of the invention may also be divided into two containers in the kit. In a container is a composition containing at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

wherein
R is a group -OH, -CM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation,
and the other container contains a composition containing at least one additional keratin reducing compound.

These two containers can be self-contained containers or different chambers within a two- or multi-compartment container, For example, a multi-chamber tube, a multi-chamber aerosol can or a multi-chamber bottle, his. Such containers are known to those skilled in the art. While the removal process from a multi-chamber container can before or after discharge of the contents from said container a mixture of the respective contents of the individual chambers take place.

The Kit may additionally contain a use instruction which the application of the kit according to the method of third subject invention dictates.

About that In addition, the kit can also optionally use application aids, Mixing vessels or protective gloves included.

The preferred embodiments and definitions of the invention Waving agents also apply mutatis mutandis to the packaging unit.

The The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

The following compositions were prepared by conventional methods (the amounts are always% by weight unless otherwise indicated). The following raw materials were used: Cremophor ^® CO40 hydrogenated castor oil with approx. 40-45 EO units (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF) Protelan ^® VE / K N-cocoyl wheat protein condensate (INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (Zschimmer & Schwarz) Texapon ^® NSO UP Lauryl ether sulfate, sodium salt (about 27.5% active ingredient; Name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis) Turpinal® ^® SL 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (about 58-61% Active substance content; INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia) Table 1: Waving agent E1 V1 ammonium thioglycolate 11.84 11.84 Turpinal SL 0.30 0.30 ammonium carbonate 2.50 2.50 Cremophor CO 40 0.75 0.75 Protelan VE / K 0.80 0.80 α-lipoic acid 1.00 - Perfume 0.50 0.50 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) ad pH 8.3 ad pH 8.3 water ad 100 ad 100 Table 2: Fixation F dipicolinic 0.10 Turpinal SL 1.70 Texapon NSO UP 6.00 hydrogen peroxide 5.00 Ammonia (25% aqueous solution) 0.70 water ad 100

1st perm:

All used 30 cm long single hairs were standardized human hair "European natural dark brown hair, code # 6634 "from the company Alkinco Individual hair was divided into four equal parts. The result obtained hair sections were individually at the top and bottom clamped in a 15 mm long hair crimp, so that the Both hair crimps had a distance of 30 mm in length. On in this way one got 160 crimped single hairs, which a 30 mm long hair area between the hair crimps.

The 160 crimped individual hairs were in four groups (Haarserien) á 40 Split hair. It fell on every hair series equal to many close to the head and overhead, crimped hair sections.

• i) Die Haare wurden 20 Minuten bei 32°C in dem Wellmittel inkubiert.
• ii) Die Haare wurden 5 Minuten lang mit 38°C warmen Wasser gespült.
• iii) Die Haare wurden 10 Minuten lang in dem Fixiermittel F der Tabelle 2 inkubiert.
• iv) Die Haare wurden 5 Minuten lang mit 38°C warmen Wasser gespült.
• v) Die Haare wurden 24 Stunden bei Raumtemperatur gelagert.
• vi) Die Schritte i) bis v) wurden noch zweimal wiederholt.

For each waving agent E1 or V1, a hair series was immersed in 80 mL of the appropriate waving agent. The procedure was carried out as follows:

• i) The hair was incubated for 20 minutes at 32 ° C in the waving agent.
• ii) The hair was rinsed with 38 ° C water for 5 minutes.
• iii) The hair was incubated for 10 minutes in fixative F of Table 2.
• iv) The hair was rinsed with 38 ° C water for 5 minutes.
• v) The hair was stored at room temperature for 24 hours.
• vi) Steps i) to v) were repeated twice more.

2. Measurement of strain work

The structurally stabilizing effect of the substance to be tested has an effect on the forces of hair stretching required until hair breakage. Therefore, the elongation work at 15% elongation and 25% elongation of the individual hairs of the two previously treated hair series was determined according to the following measurement protocol with the measuring device "MTT 675 automated miniature tensile tester" from DiaStron:
The crimped hairs were placed in the meter. The upper crimp fastened the hair in the guide of the measuring apparatus. The under crimp was gripped by the automatic measuring head. This gauge with integrated dynamometer slowly moved back during the measurement process. The single hairs were stretched until hair breakage and thereby recorded continuously the force with traveled distance of the measuring head.

15% Elongation or 25% elongation mean the percentage covered Distance of the measuring head until the hair break.

The determined strain work forms in each case the arithmetic mean of the 40 individual measurements of the respective hair series. As proof of the statistical significance of the series of measurements, a t-test was carried out. The percentage value is a measure of the likelihood that the compared series of measurements will differ in two-sided, pairwise comparison. A percentage probability greater than 99% indicates that the measurement series E1 and V1 are significantly different. E1 V1 1 test at 15% elongation 4.0210 ^-4 J 3,6710 ^-4 y > 99.99% at 25% elongation 0,7710 ^-3 y 0,7010 ^-3 y > 99.99%

To the treatment with the corrugating agent according to the invention a significant increase in strain work was noted. The hair thus has after treatment with the inventive Wellmittel a more intact hair structure on and has from this Reason an improved strength.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 5858179 A [0006]
• - EP 1129687 A2 [0007]
• US 20030180337 A [0008]
• - DE 4436065 [0036]
• - EP 61-363057 [0036]
• DE 19710154 [0046]
• - DE 3929973 A [0064]

Cited non-patent literature

• - "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994" [0051]
• - Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 [0053]
• - Umbach, cosmetics, 2nd edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart New York, 1995, and Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 [0070]

Claims (13)

Use of at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form

wherein R is a group -OH, -OM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, wherein M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, to reduce the Hair damage caused by keratin-reducing compounds. Use of at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form

wherein R is a group -OH, -OM, -NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, for alleviation the sensory sensations on the scalp caused by keratin-reducing compounds, such as in particular stinging or itching. Waving agent comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, a combination of (i) at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

in which R represents a group -OH, -OM, -NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) -alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, and ii) at least one additional keratin-reducing compound. Waving agent according to claim 3, characterized that the group R according to formula (I) is for a group -OH or -CM stands. Waving agent according to one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the compounds according to formula (I) in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-% by weight of the corrugating agent are included. Waving agent according to one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the additional Keratinreducing compounds are selected from at least one representative of the group that is formed out - Mercaptans with at least one group -SH and - sulfite compounds. Waving agent according to one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the compounds according to formula (I) at a concentration of 0.2 to 1.5 moles by weight of the corrugating agent are included. Waving agent according to one of claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the additional keratin reducing Compounds and the compounds according to formula (I) in a weight ratio of 20: 1 to 1: 1 are included. Waving agent according to one of claims 3 to 8, characterized in that additionally a conditioning Active ingredient is included. Process for the permanent transformation of keratin-containing Fibers, in particular human hair, in which (i) the Fibers with the aid of deformation aids, before or deformed during step (ii), (Ii) a corrugating agent according to any one of claims 3 to 9 on the Fibers are applied, (iii) the fibers after an exposure time Z1, rinsed and optionally dried, (Iv) then a fixative containing at least one Oxidizing agent, applied to the fibers and after a contact time Z2 is rinsed off again. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that in step (ii) the corrugating agent is applied by (a) mixing two separately formulated preparations before application to the hair or (b) successively applying two separately formulated preparations to the hair without intermediate rinsing step with the proviso that one of these preparations in a cosmetic carrier comprises at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

wherein R is a group -OH, -OM, NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, wherein M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, and the another preparation in a cosmetic carrier contains at least one additional keratin-reducing compound. Packing unit (kit-of-parts) for implementation The method of claim 10, comprising a first container containing a corrugating agent according to one of claims 3 to 9 and a second container containing a fixative, the contains at least one oxidizing agent. Packing unit (kit-of-parts) for carrying out the method according to claim 11, comprising a first container containing a preparation which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one compound of the following formula (I) and / or its reduced form,

wherein R is a group -OH, -OM, -NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkoxy or (C ₁ to C ₂₂ ) alkylamino, where M is one equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, a second Container containing a preparation which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one additional keratin-reducing compound and a third container containing a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent.