GB2568148A

GB2568148A - Cosmetic cleanser based on micelle technology

Info

Publication number: GB2568148A
Application number: GB1814973.2A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Deshaies Stacy; Boesel Tanja; Marianne Waldmann Laue; Marina Stadler Iris
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2017-09-14
Filing date: 2018-09-14
Publication date: 2019-05-08
Anticipated expiration: 2038-09-14
Also published as: GB2568148B; DE102017216244A1; GB201814973D0; FR3070859A1; DE102017216244B4; FR3070859B1

Abstract

Mild cosmetic cleanser compositions are disclosed that comprise in a cosmetic carrier at least one isethionate surfactant, at least one taurate surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one polyol and at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body. These are suitable for the production of micellar cosmetic cleanser compositions, in particular for the thorough cleansing and nourishing of the skin in one application step. The compositions have an improved cleansing power, are less irritating to the user (no sulphates or ethoxylated compounds) and are kinder to the environment (no alkoxylated compounds).

Description

COSMETIC CLEANSER BASED ON MICELLE TECHNOLOGY

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The disclosure generally relates to cosmetic cleansers, and more specifically relates to cosmetic cleaners having an improved cleaning power, based on specific surfactants, polyols and fats, and use of the produce as a cleanser and nourishing product for the skin.

BACKGROUND [0002] In the field of cosmetic facial care there is a need for cleansers that thoroughly remove make-up products, which are usually well adhered to the skin; excessive grease; residual sebum; and other contaminations in a single step, without irritating and/or drying out the skin.

[0003] Conventional cleansing products do not usually meet all of these requirements. Thus, make-up residues are usually removed in a first step using lotions that are effective degreasers and the skin is then washed with a product containing surfactants. A method of this kind is increasingly found to be inconvenient and undesirable because it requires more time and conflicts with the consumer’s increasing ecological awareness.

[0004] Micellar cosmetic cleansing products are enjoying increasing popularity because they can remove skin contaminations particularly thoroughly. It is assumed that contaminations can be better accumulated, fixed by spontaneous aggregate formation (micelle formation) of amphiphilic ingredients in a cosmetic medium, and can then be removed by rinsing or wiping off.

[0005] One product for cleansing all skin types is marketed under the name “All-inl Micellar Gel wash” by the company Gamier (Mintel Database, Record-ID: 4745559) and effectively binds and thoroughly removes make-up, dirt and/or residual sebum without mechanical action, for example rubbing. Similarly to most (micellar and non-micellar) face cleansing products, the gel wash contains, as surfactant base, sulfate surfactants and a high proportion of synthetic, ethoxylated products.

[0006] For use in face cleansing products, sulfate surfactants are a topic of dispute on account of the potential of skin irritation caused by these surfactants. The use of ethoxylated compounds is also now criticised in respect of their effect on the skin. In addition, the production of alkoxylated compounds results in a high cost and expenditure of energy, which is contrary to energy-saving efforts by lower power consumption and a reduced CO2 emission.

SUMMARY [0007] Aspects and embodiments of the invention are defined in the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION [0008] One object of embodiments of the present invention is to provide a mild cleanser which, in a single treatment step, eliminates all skin contaminations - in particular make-up - and oil residues to a large extent and at the same time nourishes the skin.

[0009] It has surprisingly been found by the present inventors that a mild, stable and more environmentally friendly surfactant base formed from isethionates, taurates and betaines in combination with polyols and oils leads to an increase in the cleaning power of cosmetic cleansers. Make-up residues and also conventional skin contaminations can thus be better removed in a single process step. In addition, the above-mentioned active substance combination is characterised by the formation of a creamy foam, which distributes very well over the skin and leaves the skin feeling pleasant after having been rinsed off.

[0010] A further advantage lies in the fact that the combination of the above-mentioned active substances enables the incorporation of further hydrophobic components (for example perfume oils) without alkoxylated (ethoxylated) compounds or acrylic acid polymers having to be added as stabilisers.

[0011] A first embodiment of this application is a mild cosmetic cleanser which contains, in a cosmetic carrier

a) at least one anionic isethionate surfactant,

b) at least one anionic taurate surfactant,

c) at least one amphoteric surfactant,

d) at least one polyol, and

e) at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body.

[0012] The cleansers according to the disclosure contain the active substances a) to e) preferably in a cosmetic carrier. Within the scope of the disclosure the cosmetic carrier is preferably understood to mean an aqueous carrier. The cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least about 50 % by weight, more preferably at least about 60 % by weight, particularly preferably at least about 65 % by weight, and in particular preferably at least about 70 % by weight of water.

[0013] For an optimal cleansing power (primarily for improved removal of make-up residues and further non-polar substances form the skin) it is advantageous if the aforementioned surfactants are used in certain amounts and proportions. It is preferred in particular if the surfactants are used in an amount above the critical micelle concentration (CMC value).

[0014] A first preferred embodiment is therefore characterised in that the cleansers according to the disclosure contain the active substance combination a) to e) in an amount that leads to detectable micelle formation. The micelle formation can be detected by light scattering measurements known in the prior art.

[0015] Particularly preferred cleansers according to the disclosure are those that contain from about 0.05 to about 15.00 % by weight of at least one anionic isethionate surfactant a), from about 0.05 to about 15.00 % by weight of at least one anionic taurate surfactant b), from about 0.20 to about 30.00 % by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant c), from about 0.05 to about 10.00 % by weight of at least one polyol d), and from about 0.01 to about 5.00 % by weight of at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body e).

[0016] In a second preferred embodiment, cleansers according to the disclosure are characterised in that they contain the sum of the anionic surfactants a) and b) to the amphoteric surfactant(s) c) in a ratio by weight of from about 1:1 to about 1:3, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:2, and in particular from about 1:1 to about 1:1.5.

[0017] Isethionate surfactants a) suitable in accordance with the disclosure are preferably compounds of the following formula (I)

O R² R⁴

SO₃ M⁺ (I)

in which

R¹ stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms,

R² to R⁵ independently of one another stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or for a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, and

M⁺ stands for an ammonium, alkanol ammonium, or metal cation.

[0018] The groups R² to R⁵ preferably stand for hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, nbutyl or 2-butyl group. At least one of the groups R² to R⁵ particularly preferably stands for a methyl, ethyl, or an n-propyl group and in particular for a methyl group. Just one of the groups R² to R⁵ very particularly preferably stands for a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular for a methyl group, and the other groups stand in each case for hydrogen. It is also possible in principle that the isethionate a) according to formula (I) contains an isomer mixture, in which both components that for example comprise a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, as group R², and in each case a hydrogen atom as groups R³ to R⁵ are contained, as well as components which for example comprise a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, as group R⁵ and in each case a hydrogen atom as groups R² to R⁴.

[0019] Very particularly preferred isethionate surfactants a) according to formula (I) are the compounds known by the INCI names Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Ammonium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate, Potassium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate and Ammonium Myristoyl Methyl Isethionate. Particularly preferred are Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and/or Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. Corresponding commercial products are obtainable for example from the company Innospec under the trade name “Iselux®LQ-CLR-SB”.

[0020] The one or more anionic isethionate surfactant(s) a) is/are used in the compositions according to the disclosure - in relation to the total weight thereof preferably in an amount of from from about 0.05 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 12 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.5 to about 10 % by weight, and in particular from about 1 % by weight to about 7.5 % by weight.

[0021] Taurate surfactants b) suitable in accordance with the disclosure are preferably understood to mean compounds of the following formula (II)

O R⁷R

R⁶--------N---SO₃’ M⁺(H)

CH₃ R⁸R in which

- R⁶ stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

- R⁷ to R¹⁰ independently of one another stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or for a C1-C4 hydroxy alkyl group, and

M⁺ stands for an ammonium, alkanol ammonium, or metal cation.

[0022] The groups R⁷ to R¹⁰ preferably stand for hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, nbutyl or 2-butyl group. At least one of the groups R⁷ to R¹⁰ particularly preferably stands for a methyl, ethyl, or an n-propyl group and in particular for a methyl group. Just one of the groups R⁷ to R¹⁰ very particularly preferably stands for a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular for a methyl group, and the other groups stand in each case for hydrogen. It is also possible in principle that the taurate surfactant b) according to formula (II) contains an isomer mixture, in which both components that for example comprise a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, as group R⁷, and in each case a hydrogen atom as groups R⁸to R¹⁰ are contained, as well as components which for example comprise a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, as group R¹⁰ and in each case a hydrogen atom as groups R⁷ to R⁹.

[0023] Taurate surfactants b) according to formula (II) that are very particularly preferred are the compounds known by the INCI names Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Ammonium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Ammonium Lauroyl Methyl Taurate, Sodium Oleyl Methyl Taurate, Potassium Oleyl Methyl Taurate and Ammonium Oleyl Methyl Taurate.

[0024] Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate and/or Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate are preferred in particular. Corresponding commercial products are obtainable for example from the company Innospec under the trade name “Pureact®WS”.

[0025] The anionic taurate surfactant(s) b) is/are used in the compositions according to the disclosure - in relation to the total weight thereof — preferably in an amount of from about 0.05 to about 15 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.1 to about 10 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.5 to about7.5 % by weight, and in particular of 1 % by weight to 5 % by weight.

[0026] In a particularly preferred embodiment the cleansers according to the disclosure contain as anionic isethionate surfactant a) at least one of the compounds known by the INCI names Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and as anionic taurate surfactant b) a compound known by the INCI name Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.

[0027] Within this embodiment it is preferred if the cleansers according to the disclosure contain Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate and Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate in the aforementioned amount ranges.

[0028] Suitable amphoteric surfactant types c) that can be used in the cleansers according to the disclosure include, for example, one or more compounds of the following formulas (i) to (vii). In those formulas the group R stands preferably for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl r alkenyl group having 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (i) and (ii)) or for a straight-chain or branched, saturated or monoor polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (iii) to (νϋ)):

H,C CH, ^R\ /^SO3 (i)	H,C CH, COO ^V (ii)
H ^H3^CX ^jCH2 R. _N. .COO Y ⁰ (iii)	H H,C_X ° (iv)
Η H YY — n coo ° s ^OH (V)	Η H YY — N COO ° s ^OH (Vi)
Η H r. /N. .coo Y Y ° s. ^CO° (vii)

[0029] Preferred amphoteric surfactants c) of the aforementioned formulas (i) to (vii) contain as group R predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl group having from about 8 to about 20, more preferably from about 8 to about 18, and in particular having from about 8 to about 16 C atoms. Amphoteric surfactants c) in which the group R derives from coconut oil are particularly preferred. The amphoteric surfactants known by the INCI names Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Coco Betaine, Lauryl Betaine Cocamidopropyl betaine and/or Lauramidopropyl betaine and commercially available from a number of suppliers are very particularly preferred. Cocamidopropyl betaine is preferred in particular.

[0030] The amphoteric surfactant(s) c) is/are used in the compositions according to the disclosure - in relation to the total weight thereof - preferably in an amount of from about 0.20 to about 30 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.505 to about 25 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 1 to about 15 % by weight, and in particular of from 2 % by weight to 10 % by weight.

[0031] In a further preferred embodiment a surfactant known by the INCI name Cocoamidopropyl betaine is used in the aforementioned amounts and ratios (to the surfactants a) and b)) as amphoteric surfactant c).

[0032] The combination of isethionate surfactants a), taurate surfactants b), and cocoamidopropyl betaine c) in the aforementioned amounts and ratios makes it possible to provide a mild cleansing formulation with a high foaming power and a high cleansing power. It is possible to dispense entirely with the use of sulfate surfactants.

An optimal balance between high cleansing and nourishing power and high stability of the cleanser according to the disclosure is attained by the combination of surfactant mixture a) - c) with the components d) and e).

[0033] Used in accordance with the disclosure as suitable polyols are preferably 1,2propanediol, glycerol, di glycerol, tri glycerol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, or mixtures of these polyols.

Particularly preferred are 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol 1,6-hexanediol, and/or sorbitol; preferred in particular are glycerol and/or sorbitol.

[0034] Theat least one polyol - preferably glycerol and/or sorbitol - is used in the compositions according to the disclosure (in relation to the total weight thereof) preferably in an amount of from about 0.05 to about 10 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.1 to about 8 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.5 to about 6 % by weight, and in particular of from about 1 to about 5 % by weight.

[0035] Potential suitable natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat bodies e) in accordance with the disclosure are preferably:

- triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides,

- mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, dialkyl ethers,

- fatty acids, fatty alcohols and/or

- glycerol mono- or di-fatty acid esters.

[0036] Due to their good skin compatibility and suitability for incorporation into the cleansers according to the disclosure, natural (plant) oils and glycerol fatty acid esters are preferred. The additional stabilisation of these oils by alkoxylated - in particular by ethoxylated - compounds is not necessary.

[0037] In a further particularly preferred embodiment the cleansers according to the disclosure are substantially sulfate-free and substantially free from alkoxylated (in particular ethoxylated) compounds. The term “substantially” free shall be understood to mean a content of free sulfate compounds and alkoxylated (in particular ethoxylated) compounds of in each case less than about 0.1 % by weight, preferably about 0.05 % by weight, particularly preferably about 0.01 % by weight, and in particular about 0 % by weight (in each case in relation to the total weight of the cleanser according to the disclosure).

[0038] Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach stone oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tee tree oil, soya oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadow foam oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth oil, argan oil, babassu oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

[0039] Preferred glycerol fatty acid esters are understood to be mono- and/or diesters of glycerol and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms. Glycerol esters in which the fatty acid derives from natural oils - preferably of sunflower oil - are particularly preferred.

An ester known by the INCI name Glyceryl Oleate is preferred in particular.

[0040] The at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat component preferably a plant oil and/or a glycerol monoester - is used in the compositions according to the disclosure (in relation to the total weight thereof) preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 5 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.05 to about 3 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.075 to about 2 % by weight, and in particular of from about 0.1 to about 1 % by weight. The cleansers according to embodiments of the disclosure can additionally contain mild surfactants, preferably mild non-ionic surfactants.

[0041] The cleansers according to the disclosure particularly preferably additionally contain a mild non-ionic surfactant which has a high foaming power and originates from natural sources.

[0042] The aforementioned category preferably includes alkyl (oligo) glycosides (APGs).

[0043] Suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides in the sense of the present disclosure can be selected from compounds of general formula RO-[G]_X, in which [G] preferably derives from aldoses and/or ketoses having 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.

[0044] The index number x stands for the degree of oligomerisation (DP), i.e. for the distribution of the mono and oligo glycosides. The index number x preferably has a value I the range of from about 1 to about 10, particularly preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 3, wherein it is not an integer and can be a fractionated number which can be determined analytically.

[0045] Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerisation between from about 1.2 and to about 1.5.

[0046] The group R stands preferably for at least one alkyl and/or alkenyl group having from about 4 to about 24 C atoms.

[0047] The group R particularly preferably stands for an alkyl and/or alkenyl group which derives from natural fats and oils.

[0048] Very particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known by the INCI names Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside; Coco Glucoside is preferred in particular.

[0049] The mild non-ionic surfactant - preferably an APG and in particular preferably Coco Glucoside - is used in the compositions according to the disclosure (in relation to the total weight thereof) preferably in an amount of from about 0.05 to about 5 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.075 to about 4 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.1 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular of from about 0.2 to about 2 % by weight.

[0050] For particularly simple incorporation and stabilisation it is advantageous if the component e) is used in the compositions according to the disclosure as a compound with a surfactant, preferably with a non-ionic surfactant and in particular with an APG.

[0051] Suitable compounds are known and obtainable commercially.

A compound that is preferred in particular is the product obtainable under the trade name Lamesoft® PO 65 (Ecocert) from the company BASF, which contains water, coco glucoside and glyceryl oleate in approximately identical amounts.

Lamesoft® PO 65 is based 100% on renewable raw plant materials and is obtained fully from coconut and palm kernel fatty acids and sunflower oil.

[0052] In a further preferred embodiment the cleansers according to the disclosure therefore contain as component e) a mixture of water, an APG, and a glycerol fatty acid ester of natural origin, preferably a mixture of water, coco glucoside and glyceryl oleate.

[0053] The above-mentioned compound is used in the compositions according to the disclosure - in relation to the total weight thereof - preferably in an amount of from about 0.05 to about 5 % by weight, more preferably of from about 0.1 to about 4 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.2 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular of from about 0.3 to about 2 % by weight.

[0054] It is possible and also preferred, depending on the intended application, to add further active substances and auxiliaries to the compositions according to the disclosure which provide advantageous properties for the skin treated therewith.

[0055] Suitable further active substances and auxiliaries can be selected for example from anti-acne active substances, vitamins and/or plant extracts.

[0056] In a further preferred embodiment, compositions according to the disclosure contain - in relation to their weight - additionally from about 0.001 to about 20 % by weight of anti-acne active substances, vitamins and/or plant extracts.

[0057] Suitable anti-acne active substances in the sense of the present disclosure are preferably understood to be salicylic acid and/or physiologically compatible salts thereof and what are known as sebum-regulating active substances.

[0058] Suitable sebum-regulating active substances can be selected from 10hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl di glycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea Ulmaria and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preferred mixtures are obtainable for example as commercial product Acnacidol®PG (Propylene Glycol, 10-Hydroxydecanoic acid, Sebacic acid, 1,10-Decanediol) from the company Vincience.

[0059] A preferred extract of Spiraea Ulmaria is contained for example in the product Seboregul® 2 from the company Silab. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is contained for example in the product Azeloglicina from the company Sinerga. Compositions that are particularly preferred in accordance with the disclosure are characterised in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active substance in a total amount of from about 0.01 to about 10 % by weight, preferably from about 0.025 to about 5 % by weight and particularly preferably from about 0.05 to about 2 % by weight, in each case in relation to active substance in the total composition.

[0060] Suitable vitamins are preferably understood to be the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof:

• Vitamin A: The group of substances classed as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-Carotene is the retinol provitamin. Suitable vitamin A components are for example vitamin A acid and esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and esters thereof such as the palmitate and acetate • Vitamin B: The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes inter alia > Vitamin Bi (thiamine) > Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) > Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) are often included under this term > Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and the monoacetate thereof, and cationic panthenol derivatives > Vitamin Βό (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can likewise be preferred.

• Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular oc-tocopherol).

• Vitamin F: the term “vitamin F” is conventionally understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

• Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the name given to the compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid, although this is now more widely known by the trivial name biotin.

[0061] Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are preferred in particular. The proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), and/or the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the cleansers according to the disclosure is preferably from about 0.001 to about 5 % by weight, particularly preferably from about 0.005 to about 3 % by weight and in particular from about 0.01 to about 1 % by weight.

[0062] Suitable plant extracts are preferably extracts from green tea, white tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, bamboo, Hamamelis, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, whitethorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needles, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, jojoba, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, cuckoo flower, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, melissa, coltsfoot, vanilla, mallow, ginseng and/or ginger root.

[0063] The extracts from green tea, white tea, aloe vera, coconut, vanilla, jojoba, chamomile, ginseng and/or bamboo are particularly preferred; the extracts from white tea, aloe vera, coconut and/or vanilla are very particularly preferred; and the extracts from white tea and/or aloe vera are preferred in particular.

[0064] The extracts are usually produced by extraction of the entire plant. However, in some cases it can also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from blossom, bark, seeds, roots, fruits and/or leaves of the plant.

[0065] Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agents for producing the aforesaid plant extracts. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol are preferred, both as sole extraction agent and also in a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of from about 1:10 to about 10:1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

[0066] The plant extracts can be used both in pure form and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approximately 1-80 % by weight of active substance and as solvent the extraction agent or extraction agent mixture used for their recovery.

[0067] Examples of plant extracts suitable in accordance with the disclosure are commercially obtainable by the names “Herbasol Distillate White Tea”, “Herbasol Extrakt Aloe” and “Herbasol Extract Vanilla” - in each case from the company Lipoid Kosmetik.

[0068] Suitable plant extracts can be used in the compositions according to the disclosure - in relation to the total weight thereof - preferably in an amount a) in the plant milk in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 5 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 0.05 to about 3 % by weight, and in particular of from about 0.1 to about 2 % by weight.

[0069] The cleansers according to the disclosure preferably have a pH range in a range that is gentle on the skin of from about 4.5 to about 5.9 % by weight, particularly preferably of from about 4.7 to about 5.7, and in particular of from about 4.8 to about 5.5 (measured at 20°C).

[0070] The compositions according to the disclosure preferably have a medium to high viscosity. A viscosity in the range of from about 8.000 to about25.000 mPas and in particular from about 8,500 to about 20.000 mPas (Brookfield; 20 rpm; spindle 5; 20°C) is particularly preferred.

[0071] Further active substances, auxiliaries and additives that can be contained with preference in the cleansers according to the disclosure are, for example:

humectants, perfumes,

- UV filters,

- thickeners, such as gelatin or plant gum, for example agar-agar, guar-gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, flaxseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin, and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol, and Ca, Mg, or Zn soaps, structurants, such as maleic acid and lactic acid, dimethylisosorbide, cyclodextrins, fibre structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugars, and lactose, dyes for colouring the product, substances for adjusting the pH value, for example oc- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, active substances such as bisabolol and/or allantoin, complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, ceramides. Ceramides are understood to be N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (what are known as pseudoceramides), propellants, such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air, antioxidants, preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid, additional viscosity regulators, such as salts (NaCl).

[0072] A second subject of the disclosure is the cosmetic use of the cleanser according to the disclosure for cleansing and nourishing the skin, in particular for improving the removal of make-up and the feel of the skin.

[0073] That said in respect of the products according to the disclosure applies, mutatis mutandis, in respect of further preferred embodiments of the use according to the disclosure.

[0074] The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the present disclosure, but without limiting it.

EXAMPLES:

a) The following cleansing compositions according to the disclosure were prepared, which are all sulfate-free and free from alkoxylated compounds (the specified amounts are in % by weight):

	1	2	3	4
anionic isethionate surfactant a)	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	5	6	7	8
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	9	10	11	12
anionic isethionate surfactant a)	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	13	14	15	16
anionic isethionate surfactant a)	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	17	18	19	20
anionic isethionate surfactant a)	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
glycerol and/or sorbitol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	21	22	23	24
anionic isethionate surfactant	0.05	0.10	0.50	1.00-7.50
a)	15.00	12.00	10.00

anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
natural oil and/or glycerol fatty acid ester	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	25	26	27	28
anionic isethionate surfactant a)	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
glyceryl oleate	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	29	30	31	32
anionic isethionate surfactant	0.05	0.10	0.50	1.00-7.50
a)	15.00	12.00	10.00
anionic taurate surfactant b)	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
amphoteric surfactant	0.20	0.50	1.00	2.00

	30.00	25.00	15.00	10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
alkyl (oligo) glycoside	0.05-5.00	0.075 4.00	0.10-3.00	0.20-2.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	33	34	35	36
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
polyol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	37	38	39	40
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00

cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
glycerol and/or sorbitol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
oil	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	41	42	43	44
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
glycerol and/or sorbitol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
glyceryl oleate	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	45	46	47	48
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00

glycerol and/or sorbitol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
glyceryl oleate	0.01-5.00	0.05-3.00	0.075 2.00	0.10-1.00
alkyl (oligo) glycoside, preferably coco glucoside	0.05-5.00	0.075 4.00	0.10-3.00	0.20-2.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	49	50	51	52
sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl isethionate	0.05 15.00	0.10 12.00	0.50 10.00	1.00-7.50
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	0.05 15.00	0.10 10.00	0.50-7.50	1.00-5.00
cocamidopropyl betaine	0.20 30.00	0.50 25.00	1.00 15.00	2.00 10.00
glycerol and/or sorbitol	0.05 10.00	0.10-8.00	0.50-6.00	1.00-5.00
Lamesoft®¹ PO 65	0.05-5.00	0.10-4.00	0.20-3.00	0.30-2.00
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

	53	54	55	56
Iselux®²LQ-CLR-SB	9.50	9.50	10.00	11.00
Pureact®³WS Cone.	6.50	6.50	7.00	7.50
cocamidopropyl betaine, 37% AS	18.00	18.00	20.00	22.00
glycerol	2.00	2.00	1.50	2.00
sorbitol	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
Lamesoft®¹ PO 65	1.00	1.00	1.50

sunflower oil				0.75
Acnacidol®⁴ BG	0.10
panthenol	0.70	0.70	0.50	0.30
Herbasol®⁵ Distillate White Tea	0.50			0.50
Herbasol®⁶ Extract Aloe		0.50	0.70
perfume	0.30	0.30	0.60	0.60
water and any further auxiliaries and additives	to 100	to 100	to 100	to 100

List of used commercial products:

¹⁽¹ INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua; BASF ®² INCI name: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (35-50% AS); Innospec ®³ INCI name: Aqua, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Coconut Fatty Acid, Sodium

Chloride (30-32% AS); Innospec ®⁴ INCI name: Butylene Glycol, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10Decanediol; Ashland (eh. Vincience) ®⁵ INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract; Lipoid Cosmetics ®⁶ INCI name: Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract; Lipoid Cosmetics

b) Assessment of cleansers according to the disclosure

A micellar wash gel according to the disclosure (above-mentioned formulation 53) was tested and assessed in a use test of 100 subjects of different age and gender:

o 64% of subjects confirmed that the skin was well cleansed after use, o 86% of subjects confirmed that the skin looked thoroughly cleansed after use, o 71% of subjects were satisfied on the whole with the cosmetic properties of the product, o 64% of subjects considered the feel on the skin during application to be particularly smooth and creamy, ο 64% of the subjects considered the foam stability to be good, o 72% of subjects considered the properties of the composition with regard to rinse-off and removal to be good, o 79% of subjects considered the properties of the composition with regard to its distribution on moist skin to be good.

Claims

CLAIMS:

1. A mild cosmetic cleanser containing, in a cosmetic carrier,

a) at least one anionic isethionate surfactant;

b) at least one anionic taurate surfactant;

c) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

d) at least one polyol; and

e) at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body.

2. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to claim 1, wherein the active substance combination a) to e) is provided in an amount that leads to detectable micelle formation.

3. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to either one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the ratio by weight of the sum of the at least one anionic surfactants a) and b) to the at least one amphoteric surfactant c) is 1:1 to 1:3.

4. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to either one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the ratio by weight of the sum of the at least one anionic surfactants a) and b) to the at least one amphoteric surfactant c) is 1:1 to 1:2.

5. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to either one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the ratio by weight of the sum of the at least one anionic surfactants a) and b) to the at least one amphoteric surfactant c) is 1:1 to 1:5.

6. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 5, containing - in relation to its weight - from about 0.05 to about 15.00 % by weight of at least one anionic isethionate surfactant a), from about 0.05 to about 15.00 % by weight of at least one anionic taurate surfactant b), from about 0.20 to about 30.00 % by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant c), from about 0.05 to about 10.00 % by weight of at least one polyol d), and

- from about 0.01 to about 5.00 % by weight of at least one natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body e).

7. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing, as anionic isethionate surfactant a), at least one compound of the following formula (I):

O R2 R4

R1-------O

SO3- M+ (I)

R3 R5 in which

R1 stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms,

R2 to R5 independently of one another stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or for a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, and

M+ stands for an ammonium, alkanol ammonium, or metal cation.

8. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing, as anionic isethionate surfactant c), at least one compound of the following formula (II)

O R7 R9

N-CH3 R8

--SO3- M+

Ri° (II) in which

- R6 stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having from about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms,

- R7 to R10 independently of one another stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or for a C1-C4 hydroxy alkyl group, and

M+ stands for an ammonium, alkanol ammonium, or metal cation.

9. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing:

as anionic isethionate surfactant a), at least one of the compounds known by the INCI names Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, and as anionic taurate surfactant b), a compound known under the INCI name Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.

10. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing, as amphoteric surfactant c), a compound known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

11. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing as polyol d), 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, 1,6-hexanediol and/or sorbitol.

12. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to Claim 11, containing as polyol d), glycerol and/or sorbitol.

13. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing as natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body e) at least one glycerol mono- or diester of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms.

14. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to claim 13, containing as natural, mineral or synthetic oil and/or fat body e) preferably an ester known by the INCI name Glyceryl Oleate.

15. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing - in relation to its weight - additionally from about 0.05 to about 5.00 % by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant.

16. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to Claim 15, wherein the non-ionic surfactant comprises an alkyl (oligo) glycoside.

17. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, containing - in relation to its weight - additionally from about 0.01 to about 2.00 % by weight of at least one skincare active substance.

18. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to Claim 17, wherein the skincare active substance is selected from anti-acne active substances, vitamins and/or plant extracts.

19. The mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim, wherein the cleanser is substantially sulfate-free and substantially free from alkoxylated compounds.

20. The cosmetic use of a mild cosmetic cleanser according to any preceding claim for cleansing and nourishing the skin, in particular for improving the removal of make-up and the feel of the skin.